From Tito over at OU - Energy Amplication thread.

see the similarities !

Regards, Penno

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Exactly

I thought my posts must have been invisible

I would not know what size capacitor or resistor to use in replacement of the bad battery because we don't have figures for its capacitance and impedance. maybe someone could try measuring that somehow. I think this will vary from setup to setup.

mbrownn,

Not invisible. What you said makes lots of sense. Once I get all my welding done, I will give some of these things a shot. I have enough batteries and motors to have three setups going, and that is my intention. It is the loads on the motors that become the problem, and I have been working to address that. Without a reasonable load, you are kinda spinning your wheels with this thing, and I want that load to be productive---a generator or energizer of some kind.

connected a generator pm dc motor good one , and when i connected to motor it gave me back 8-9v at full speed .. problem is how to feed it back to the system , i was thinking of adding a diode and feeding it back to battery 2, but battery 2 has 12v out so it might not add , i cannot add it back in series, in running system not a good idea ? any idea..

how will relay cut in a out , it need to be very fast for spikes and have to be timed at the peak of the curve ..can u post the link of the setup..

hello_all,
Our purpose in starting this thread was twofold, first to show everyone that in its present form, with controlled, cautious use, here is a source of unlimited power that can be used, if only sporadically, to power medium to large loads, lights, etc. and when you have learned to balance the loads we are unsure of its limits.
Second, to get people to start looking at what we could use in place of, or in combination with, battery three so that the power is constant and endless.

You shouldn't need to feed power back to the system. If you want to do that, the solution would be to pulse the DC motor and feed back to the primary batteries between pulses as John B does with the monopole. You can't output from batteries and input to those batteries at the same time, UNLESS, like I believe we're doing here, we reverse the polarity of the electricity. Right now I truly believe the motor will send electricity back to the primary batteries in pulses. If you put a scope on it, you will see it. And those pulses are over the voltage of the primary batteries. Depending which leg of the motor you have hooked up, those pulses can become greater. So, if you use 120 volt DC motor instead of a 12 volt, how high can those pulses get? And what will the effect of high voltage pulses back to the primary be? These are the things we are working on here.

Dave

You could put the generator output to a 6 volt battery, separate from the system. If you had two. then alternate charging to each separately. Or have them in parallel . Then they could be wired in series to make 12v as a good battery 1 or 2. As Turion said we should have multiple systems. Charging the batteries on one while running the other and then doing the same while running that one. The best would be to have a minimum of three systems. After running. it would have a rest period while one of the other ones was charging the last system that had a rest.

George

Mr. Bedini,

If I wanted to replace a Lead Acid Batt, with a capacitor, what kind of capacitor would I look for?
Sincerely,

David P.

We WISH Mr. Bedini were here helping with this!!!

I am not him but.... I'll give you the layman's answer.

You cannot replace a battery with capacitor. A battery has is power producer as well as a capacitor. Even super caps are just storage for power.

If you wanted to use a cap for this circuit instead of a dead battery you would have to get real good with switching. You would have to incrementally return the power to the battery through boost circuit, which could be your motor if you set it up right. Alot of work either way.

Matt

Matt,
Have you had a chance to mess with this setup any more? Just wondering if you had any insights into what we could do to improve this circuit or replace the battery with other components.

Dave

No I have alot running and I cannot spare the batteries right now. Another week or so before some will free up.

Matt

Here's a little experiment for those of you who have the necessary equipment and are wondering if this thing is for real or not. Hook up the circuit as I've described it several times. Go through the process I've described for getting your running motor to jump into the "zone."

Now, measure the rpm's of your motor. Once that is done, disconnect the system. Run the motor on a single battery from your two battery stack and measure the rpm's. Run your motor on your two batteries in series and measure the rpm's. How does this compare to the rpm's of running your motor on this system when it is "in the zone"? What accounts for the difference in RPM's?

If you think it's the bad battery, drain it completely any way you can think of, and try the experiment again.

I know what I have seen. I know what you will see. You will see that the RPM's you were getting out of the motor before it jumped into the "zone" are just a little less than what you get out of the two batteries in series, but that once it jumped into the "zone" they were significantly higher...so much higher that the only REASONABLE explanation is that there is another source of input to the motor besides what you get out of the two batteries in series, OR that the motor is able to use that energy in a different way because of the way it is wired in this circuit. Whether it is because the motor acts as a generator or we are utilizing the voltage produced by the two batteries more efficiently, or whether it has tapped into something else, I wouldn't venture to guess, but SOMETHING is going on. I did that test many times several years ago. Because I couldn't get my head around what I was seeing. Have fun.

Dave

Hiwater is seeing the same thing happen with his generator in the Lockridge thread. With the right load his RPM's increase. This action must be part of the
secret for the Lockridge device. The Lockrige device used a 300 watt load which
was its output.

George

Not sure if you mentioned that exactly this way before but I find that is very exciting and promising news that this setup is really tapping zero point or radiant energy! Now if I can just break away from the honeydo projects I really want to give this a try again since I've got a lot more info than I did the last time I tried this 3 battery/motor setup.

I've got one request - for anyone having any success or interesting results can you specify exactly what motor you have tried? Good luck everyone!

Hey Dave,

this is a very good measurement you proposed. Allow me to reiterate what you have said in simpler words and please just confirm it or correct it, please.

1) Motor RPM with battery 1 and 2 in series should have maximum rpm of X
2) Motor RPM with battery 1 and 2 in series + bad battery should have an RPM of X + Y (greater rpm) when in the zone mode


So motor runs faster when in the zone mode than when only with the 2 batteries in series.

Fausto.

Correct. Whether that means anything to anybody else, I don't know. Maybe the amps are different and that is responsible for increased RPM's. I'm no motor expert. It's just observations.

Dave

I posted this video before of the Princess Auto motors I am using. I have four
of them and have ran 3 at one time in parallel in the main motor position. I also
have the Black and Decker 12 volt rechargeable weed eater that Hello_All used. I also have a 12v rechargeable drill but have only tried to run it as a generator
attached to one of the other motors. Also the small 12v ceramic heater in the
main motor position. Also a small 12v fan motor. Any 12v DC motor should work

12volt DC motor - Bedini Mod? - YouTube

George

FRC is correct, ANY brushed DC motor will work. Some will work better than others, but ANY one should work. The trick is being able to put AT LEAST a slight load on the motor, and then balancing that load with the load on battery three. The farther they are out of balance, the more it seems to drain batteries one and two. If you can get them balanced without taking too much time, that is when you see great results.

Four year ago when I posted on this topic, I did not have all the information I have acquired since that time. Several people spent a lot of their time trying to replicate my efforts and were not successful. I have always felt bad about that. I think it was because their expectations were too high and they wanted to be able to hook up anything and run it. This time around I have tried to encourage people only to take small steps until they see success, and then expand upon it. That seems to be working out much better. Get a basic setup running before you do anything else, and then get it balanced.
Dave

Thanks George and Dave. I've got several to play with. The original one I was trying was a 3 speed 12 automotive wiper motor - probably from a 70's era car but had never been installed so basically new. It was giving some interesting results at times. Can't wait to give this a try again with the new knowledge you have all given.

ewizard,
Not a problem. I want to make sure that anybody who puts in the time to build one of these is successful, so anything I can do, just let me know.

Dave

I have a friend who has one of these 3 Battery/Motor systems up and running. He asked me what battery charger I am using and reported these results:

I was asking because my battery #2 in my test set seemed real week when I started this circuit testing over the last couple of weeks. I had charged it many times with a charger and it never got much over 11v. But after using it in your 3battery set up it now seems happy at 13.5 volts.

I know many of you have seen how well this setup charges batteries in the third position, but it also helps improve the batteries in positions one and two. I am pretty sure this is because of the spikes back from the motor to those primary batteries.

Please let everyone in your circle of EF friends know about this system. The more people we get involved in exploring its potential, the better for all of us.

Yes batteries 1 and 2 improve. I just checked my battery 2 from my last runs,
Wal Mart garden battery, and it is now sitting at 13.05 volts after a long resting
period after being charged with a 2 amp battery charger. It never stayed this high before.

George

Hi All,..I've been lurking here for a little while...
I tried this with 2 identical motors' on feed and supply...
I tried it with big motor on feed , little motor supply
little motor feed big motor supply
The gain found in the "dead" battery,"dosen't out preform the losses in the strong battery that made everything happen......
You need to intterupt the flow in the coils
Actullay,.. try shorting them....
The gains are there......shylo.

I'm not exactly sure I understand what you are saying. Could you elaborate a little? It sounds like you were NOT successful with a standard setup, but are recommending we try something in addition to what we are doing. As in shorting the coils in the motor to collect the CEMF?? Please explain. I want you to be successful with the basic setup and am trying to understand why you were not.

By the way, if you're understanding is that the value in this system lies in being able to charge battery number three, you may have missed something. The entire purpose is to balance the load between what is on the motor and what is on battery three, and then you get the continued operation of the motor for free for a really long, long, long time. If that motor is hooked to a generator, that generator is running. Did you go through the process I explained to get your motor to go into the 'zone" where its RPM's suddenly increase and the draw on batteries one and two all but goes away? Are you using a 12 volt brushed DC motor?

Dave

I just purchased 4 brand new small motorcycle wet lead acid batteries for this experiment.

Now, can you Dave show some specs of a kind of motor i should purchase?

Many thanks.

Fausto.

Fausto,

The motor that I used on my original experiment was closest to the 12-volt CIM motor like those used in robotics, model FP801-005. I have one of those now. Luther is also using one of those, as well as a Pacific Scientific motor rated at 2.5HP, 124-volts @ 18amps. The PacSci motor is from a treadmill - so it has a shaft that comes out of each end of the motor. He is sending me a couple of these and they are what I will be using also. As long as it is a 12 volt brushed DC motor, it should work. If you get one rated for higher voltage, like the 110 volt brushed DC motors I also have, you can couple one as a generator and now you have a load and a nice ability to produce some power.

Dave

I've been reading this thread since yesterday, I've tried the setup last night with 6volts sla batteries I have from emergency lights, I have 7 fully discharged 6volt sla batteries somewhere. It did what Turion said it would do and it's really amazing. I will try to do all what I've read from here and try combinations. bat 3 I think is the key, how it works on the system. Very happy with the results

Sanskara316,

Glad it's working for you. I would agree that battery 3 is the key. The closer to a completely dead battery that still allows the system to run that you have in that position, the better your results will be, and the longer you can keep it from building up any kind of a charge on battery three, the longer your positive results will last. The sooner you get your loads balanced, the sooner you get the second speed up effect of the motor and minimize the current draw on the two primaries. When you have ALL these things aligned, that's when you really see the magic, so don't get discouraged. Until then it is a pretty cool setup with interesting results. When all of that is in place, it is something far more. To actually SEE it happen is pretty exciting.

Dave