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  #1111 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 12:35 AM
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ehsanco1062 ehsanco1062 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
You'll have to give me the part number.

Matt
Hi Matt

If you mean the part number for the transformer ,there is no part number but if you mean for the resisters then I will get it for you.

Ehsan
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  #1112 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 12:52 AM
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The part number for th TRANSISTOR you said you were using.

Matt
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  #1113 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
The part number for th TRANSISTOR you said you were using.

Matt
Hi Matt

Sorry it's my mistake instead of writing transformer
I write transistor .lol
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  #1114 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:14 AM
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Here are the Digi Key part numbers for the schematic

C1 .1uf 478-6010-ND
C2 .1uf 478-6010-ND
C3 .1uf 478-6010-ND
C4 .1uf 478-6010-ND
DC1 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
DC2 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
DC3 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
DC4 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
FOD1 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
FOD2 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
FOD3 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
FOD4 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
J1 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
J2 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
J3 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
J4 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
R1 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R2 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R3 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R4 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R5 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND (zero after the R not a capital O)
R6 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND
R7 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND
R8 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND
R9 22 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND (zero after the R not a capital O)
R10 22 ohm 1/8watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND
R11 22 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND
R12 22 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND
TE1 A98479-ND A98479-ND

I will post a picture of my boards.
Install Express PCB that Matt gave you the link for. Download the two files Matt gave you a download link to. When you open up the PCB board file, go to "Layout" at the top of the page and then to "order boards from the internet" At one point it will give you a choice of three or four different kinds of boards and you want the CHEAP one which I think is at the bottom. I think it's called the "mini board" or something like that. Three for $75.00. Each board will control 4 fetts, and you only need ONE board for this setup, but the minimum order is three. So some of you might want to go together and get the boards and share the $75.00 expense.

Matt sent me a "Paint by Numbers schematic for folks (like me) who are just learning to really understand circuits. It includes a picture of the basic stamp, my completed circuit board, the fetts and batteries for this setup. It also shows the modified schematic that has the driver circuit for the fetts removed. It does NOT include the latest modification for driving a load and charging a battery. For that, refer to Matt's drawing above.
Thanks Matt,

I've ordered my boards and am still parts-gathering... I have the bigger transformer - just need to rewind it. I'm neck-deep in a big project at work and am at work right now as I write this... been working all weekend so it'll be a couple of days before I can get back into this...

Cheers,

Luther
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  #1115 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehsanco1062 View Post
Hi Matt

Sorry it's my mistake instead of writing transformer
I write transistor .lol
You can use the 250 watt. Just go with a smaller wire. Like 20 awg or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LutherG View Post
Thanks Matt,

I've ordered my boards and am still parts-gathering... I have the bigger transformer - just need to rewind it. I'm neck-deep in a big project at work and am at work right now as I write this... been working all weekend so it'll be a couple of days before I can get back into this...

Cheers,

Luther
Don't feel bad, it my plan and I have not had the time to get it going. Life's got alot to do lately.

Matt
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  #1116 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 10:51 PM
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Hi Matt

About the transformer what do you think is butter laying the wires on the core or litzing the eight wires?
Battery P3 please dont tell me its the bad battery ?

Ehsan

Last edited by ehsanco1062 : 05-29-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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  #1117 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2012, 12:18 AM
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The point of winding a transformer is to minimize the air space. So try to fill it up with copper. Litzing it will not do that unless you use a very small wire.

No bad Battery. I would put 2-4 good batteries of the same type you would use in the serial portion. This should leave you with some charged batteries if the serial drop to much. Even with one batt it should create a slight resonant's across the windings and the load that will help in the long run.

This thing will not run a huge load either. Thats not the point. We just want to run a small moderate load and maintain charge in the primary batteries for as long as we can. If your batteries are 100 amp hour you will not run more than 5 amp in the load portion.
It will be somewhat of a balancing act. The primary batteries will drop some and hold. If they continue to drop you can lighten the load or adjust the frequency. As the frequencies get charted we will start to increase the load.

If it rains tomorrow I will have time to get mine together (All I need is together just need a little wiring) to start exploring frequency issues. I am hoping I can cover the frequencies needed with the stamp but in case We might have to go with a faster solution. Not sure yet.

It will be a neat thing though have no doubt. I have already seen what this thing will do in pieces of other circuits.

Cheers
Matt
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  #1118 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2012, 08:46 AM
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Hi Matt

Thank you the Clarification,I will use #22AWG wire because when I removed the wire that I used it for the small setup for your tesla switch it was #20AWG and it was three wires two are 16m long ant the third wire is 20m long and the wires were litzed together and core was almost full so I can not use 8 wire of #20AWG and we need to put 8 wires of 12m long (40 feet) unless I will use thinner wire or shorter wire and I would rather use thiner wire than shorter wire because I want to stick with the determine length, I chose that wire because that's the only wire that I have that is enough to full the core.
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  #1119 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2012, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ehsanco1062 View Post
Hi Matt

Thank you the Clarification,I will use #22AWG wire because when I removed the wire that I used it for the small setup for your tesla switch it was #20AWG and it was three wires two are 16m long ant the third wire is 20m long and the wires were litzed together and core was almost full so I can not use 8 wire of #20AWG and we need to put 8 wires of 12m long (40 feet) unless I will use thinner wire or shorter wire and I would rather use thiner wire than shorter wire because I want to stick with the determine length, I chose that wire because that's the only wire that I have that is enough to full the core.
Ya that should be fine if you can get that on there (22awg). 40 ft leaves about .6 ohms of resistance per winding. That leaves the possibility for 40 amps (I=E/R) of surge in the system.
So just make your fets can handle that or a little bit more and you'll be good.

CHeers
Matt

PS its Raining. I get some shop time today.
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  #1120 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
Ya that should be fine if you can get that on there (22awg). 40 ft leaves about .6 ohms of resistance per winding. That leaves the possibility for 40 amps (I=E/R) of surge in the system.
So just make your fets can handle that or a little bit more and you'll be good.

CHeers
Matt

PS its Raining. I get some shop time today.
Hi Matt

Happy shopping day, I will look for 50A Fets,
In the board there is a place for the fourth Fet and we are using only three is there a possibility that you might use four Fets in the future?

Ehsan
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  #1121 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2012, 12:25 PM
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The controller was designed for some of the TS projects working on. The biggest point being you can use any combination of the thing. Maybe when the system gets higher powered you can use 2 Fets in parallel on serial switch.
Or maybe 4 Fets in one position then you can drive the whole board with one input and have 4 high powered Fets to do the work of that position.

Its meant to be versatile.

On another project I have 1 board running 4 switch's. And one board running 4 switch's as one switch.

It's just a generic driver you can use for anything.

I have another one also that I am working on but more than likely I will sell them pre assembled when I get it to 1 mhz speeds. Its more like a solid state relay than anything, But you can use whatever rated Fet you want.

Matt
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  #1122 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2012, 02:13 PM
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Hi Matt

With all these projects you are working on and you have time to answer our questions !
God bless you

Ehsan
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  #1123 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2012, 12:33 AM
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HI Dave , Matt Eshan and ALL

Okay, we are down , doing Daves and will order for Matt's Scalar charger, we need some thing to do till we can order Daves/Matt's boards LOL, we have a lot of parts from Matt's original that we can recycle and get into this.

Eager to show off the new work shop, we had to get one since white ants are hungry and collapsed our old house...I consider Matt and Dave as white ants to the system too LOL

Ash
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  #1124 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2012, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ashtweth View Post
HI Dave , Matt Eshan and ALL

Okay, we are down , doing Daves and will order for Matt's Scalar charger, we need some thing to do till we can order Daves/Matt's boards LOL, we have a lot of parts from Matt's original that we can recycle and get into this.

Eager to show off the new work shop, we had to get one since white ants are hungry and collapsed our old house...I consider Matt and Dave as white ants to the system too LOL

Ash
You need anything now, Holler at me.

Cheers
Matt
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  #1125 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2012, 09:56 PM
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LutherG LutherG is offline
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On their way

My boards shipped today!

I can hardly wait to get this built!

Cheers,

Luther
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  #1126 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 02:06 AM
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Hi Matt

I have just order or the PCB board will shipped to Sweden within 10 days it cost 142$ three boards pro including shipping to sweden.
And I will continue shopping the other parts and its hard to find 500w transformer here in Sweden so I have to order it also or I can use the same transistor I use it for the small setup of your tesla switch which is 250w does it work ?
And if it is then shall the wire gauge be #18 and 40 feet long 8 wires and 40 turns or less?
One more question its about these 1/8w resistors I have many resistors and w and 1w can I use them instead of the 1/8 w ?
Ehsan
Ehsan, I don't believe anyone answered you about the resistors. In case you haven't come across the answer yet I think I can answer that one for you. As long as you can physically fit them into the PCB or your circuit (shouldn't be a problem as you can stand them upright if needed) a and or a watt resistor will always work fine when it calls for an 1/8 watt resistor. It will give you an extra margin of safety even as the only difference in resistor wattage ratings is their ability to handle the total power running through them. So the bigger the better in most cases with the possible exception of extremely high frequency circuits where the extra size might alter some things. I don't think that would be any problem here.
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  #1127 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 09:54 AM
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Ehsan, I don't believe anyone answered you about the resistors. In case you haven't come across the answer yet I think I can answer that one for you. As long as you can physically fit them into the PCB or your circuit (shouldn't be a problem as you can stand them upright if needed) a and or a watt resistor will always work fine when it calls for an 1/8 watt resistor. It will give you an extra margin of safety even as the only difference in resistor wattage ratings is their ability to handle the total power running through them. So the bigger the better in most cases with the possible exception of extremely high frequency circuits where the extra size might alter some things. I don't think that would be any problem here.

Hi ewizard

Thank you ,that's what I thought but I want to be sure that those resistors can
fit into the PCB ,and you make it clear
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  #1128 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 04:31 PM
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Hi ewizard

Thank you ,that's what I thought but I want to be sure that those resistors can
fit into the PCB ,and you make it clear
In the past if I had any wire lead sizes that wouldn't quite fit a PCB hole I would either use a tiny drill to enlarge the hole a bit or I've even used a Dremel to grind down the diameter of the leads a bit. Anything to save buying another 2 cent resistor
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  #1129 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 04:45 PM
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I have one of these (made back in 70') fitted into small DC motor from a toy. - Mini Keyless Chuck 3/32" Shank For Micro Drill Bits | eBay
It works great for drilling PCB's.

Vtech
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  #1130 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 07:21 PM
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Hi Matt

Before I will make my order I want to be sure that this Fet is Working fine or not
http://ixdev.ixys.com/DataSheet/DS99...-TQ50N25T).pdf
It's 250v 50A

Ehsan
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  #1131 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 10:19 PM
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Ya that might work. The big issue with it is a 400 watt, So you might run into problems with it. But you could parallel several if you find a weak point.

The biggest thing I am worried about is the cap dump portion. If your cap is say 10000 uf and you charge it to 48 volt and dump it into a 24 volt battery with that Fet you'll have a 100 nanosecond pulse of 24 volt at 480 amps. Those numbers are off

So you can see that might stress the Fet out a bit, but like I said you can give it a try.

Also make sure to include a good heat sink. Much over 40 deg Centigrade you are going to lower the conduction rapidly. So you wanna keep that little thing cool as possible.

Matt
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  #1132 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:31 PM
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Hi Matt

Thank you for the explanation although I didn't understand some of it because its above my understanding but I think it dose not worth to try and then blow some thing and then wait untill get the new order which it will be the same as you refer to in previous post I mean
IXFN180N25T-ND It's 155A 250v to be in the save side .
And I ordered also (338-1988-ND) it's 15000mf 100v cap
And this ultra fast diode (30EPH03PBF-ND) It's 300v 30A and the ather parts ar the same as Dave list.
These parts I orderes from Digi-key

Ehsan
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  #1133 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:47 PM
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Ya thats the safe way to go. You can always lean the system down later once you have all the power mapped out.

The thing you gotta watch is Watts, At least that been my experience. If the watts aren't high and the conduction is not high enough at Higher heat level than usually they don't hold up very well. The other thing you have to watch is the voltage of the transients. If the Bypass diode is not rated high enough the spikes will eat ya up.
Thats what I like about the IXYS miniblocks. They can take beating. They'll still burn up if your not careful but its easier to see whats going on then make the correct adjustment. They have High watt counts and that helps alot.

Matt
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  #1134 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2012, 12:51 AM
shylo shylo is offline
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Partial Success

Hi all

I'm still working with the original set-up.
I can take 204 watts of power, off the dead battery,...I'm running 3 loads,

an 18volt cordless impact,
" " " " drill,
" " sawsall,
My primaries (good bats) hold and climb, when my switching is working.

If I could keep the switching working properly I'm sure it will run.

I've tried many different mechanical set-up's, but the wires eventually burn out

I have a generator connected to my motor that works off the positive of the dead battery ,and the positive of the # 1 ,good battery , this connects to the positive and negative of the #2 ,good battery.

The switching has to intterupt the flow to the coils(in the charger) at just the right time.

I checked the #'s on the tools (204W), but tried to check what the rad fan was drawing(it was more than 7amps dc,melted the test lead in my hand),

Trying to build some form of brushes or a switch, that's where the answer is.

shylo
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  #1135 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:49 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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shylo
Can you post a schematic? I'm a little confused, but then I'm always a little confused.
Dave
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  #1136 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:06 AM
shylo shylo is offline
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I don't use steel for back plates this was my 1st attempt

I tried using an old armature, and a set of brushes as a switch,it worked quite well,the only thing was the more area you cover with the brush,the more drag you create

But if you can make multiple connections at the same time ,in the right sequence, hence the switch

The only way is to reduce the size of the brush(or contact)

shylo

Last edited by shylo : 03-17-2014 at 01:25 AM.
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  #1137 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:58 AM
citfta citfta is offline
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Questions

Hi shylo,
I am also somewhat confused. I hope you don't mind if I ask some questions to try and understand what you are doing. Also a schematic would be a big help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shylo View Post
Hi all

I'm still working with the original set-up.
I can take 204 watts of power, off the dead battery,...I'm running 3 loads,

an 18volt cordless impact,
" " " " drill,
" " sawsall,
My primaries (good bats) hold and climb, when my switching is working. What switching are you talking about? The original circuit only had the batteries and a motor and the load on the dead battery.

If I could keep the switching working properly I'm sure it will run.

I've tried many different mechanical set-up's, but the wires eventually burn out

I have a generator connected to my motor that works off the positive of the dead battery ,and the positive of the # 1 ,good battery , this connects to the positive and negative of the #2 ,good battery. Are you saying the output of the generator is connected to battery #2?

The switching has to intterupt the flow to the coils(in the charger) at just the right time. Is the charger the generator you have running off the motor that is connected to the positive of the good battery #1 and the positive of the dead battery?

I checked the #'s on the tools (204W), but tried to check what the rad fan was drawing(it was more than 7amps dc,melted the test lead in my hand), Is the rad fan motor the same as the motor that is turning the generator or charger?

Trying to build some form of brushes or a switch, that's where the answer is.

shylo
Thanks for any clarification you can give.
Carroll
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  #1138 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2012, 11:43 PM
shylo shylo is offline
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Well I'm not good at schematics

Last edited by shylo : 03-17-2014 at 01:25 AM.
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  #1139 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2012, 11:51 PM
shylo shylo is offline
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sorry

I posted that before I was ready
This is my switch

The problem is the wires need constant observation.

shylo

Last edited by shylo : 03-17-2014 at 01:25 AM.
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  #1140 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2012, 12:36 AM
citfta citfta is offline
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Thanks shylo

Ok now I think I see what you are doing. You are using the coil shorting process that I have seen on some other forums. Are you shorting the coil multiple times at the peak of the voltage curve or only once? I have seen some circuits on this forum or another one for doing that electronically. I'll have to look for it if you are interested in going that way. If I understand the process right this shorting allows you to get a lot more power from the generator without any additional drag on the motor. Is that correct? So then you are able to keep the primary batteries charged while running the 3BGS. Thanks for sharing this with us.

Carroll
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