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| Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here. |
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05-28-2012, 11:35 PM
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If you mean the part number for the transformer ,there is no part number but if you mean for the resisters then I will get it for you. Ehsan           
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05-28-2012, 11:52 PM
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The part number for th TRANSISTOR you said you were using.
Matt
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05-29-2012, 12:51 AM
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Sorry it's my mistake instead of writing transformer I write transistor .lol
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05-29-2012, 01:14 AM
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I've ordered my boards and am still parts-gathering... I have the bigger transformer - just need to rewind it. I'm neck-deep in a big project at work and am at work right now as I write this... been working all weekend so it'll be a couple of days before I can get back into this... Cheers, Luther
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05-29-2012, 02:07 AM
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Matt
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05-29-2012, 09:51 PM
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Hi Matt
About the transformer what do you think is butter laying the wires on the core or litzing the eight wires? Battery P3 please don’t tell me it’s the bad battery ? Ehsan Last edited by ehsanco1062 : 05-29-2012 at 09:54 PM.
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05-29-2012, 11:18 PM
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The point of winding a transformer is to minimize the air space. So try to fill it up with copper. Litzing it will not do that unless you use a very small wire.
No bad Battery. I would put 2-4 good batteries of the same type you would use in the serial portion. This should leave you with some charged batteries if the serial drop to much. Even with one batt it should create a slight resonant's across the windings and the load that will help in the long run. This thing will not run a huge load either. Thats not the point. We just want to run a small moderate load and maintain charge in the primary batteries for as long as we can. If your batteries are 100 amp hour you will not run more than 5 amp in the load portion. It will be somewhat of a balancing act. The primary batteries will drop some and hold. If they continue to drop you can lighten the load or adjust the frequency. As the frequencies get charted we will start to increase the load. If it rains tomorrow I will have time to get mine together (All I need is together just need a little wiring) to start exploring frequency issues. I am hoping I can cover the frequencies needed with the stamp but in case We might have to go with a faster solution. Not sure yet. It will be a neat thing though have no doubt. I have already seen what this thing will do in pieces of other circuits. Cheers Matt
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05-30-2012, 07:46 AM
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Hi Matt
Thank you the Clarification,I will use #22AWG wire because when I removed the wire that I used it for the small setup for your tesla switch it was #20AWG and it was three wires two are 16m long ant the third wire is 20m long and the wires were litzed together and core was almost full so I can not use 8 wire of #20AWG and we need to put 8 wires of 12m long (40 feet) unless I will use thinner wire or shorter wire and I would rather use thiner wire than shorter wire because I want to stick with the determine length, I chose that wire because that's the only wire that I have that is enough to full the core.
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05-30-2012, 09:36 AM
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So just make your fets can handle that or a little bit more and you'll be good. CHeers Matt PS its Raining. I get some shop time today.
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05-30-2012, 10:17 AM
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Happy shopping day, I will look for 50A Fets, In the board there is a place for the fourth Fet and we are using only three is there a possibility that you might use four Fets in the future? Ehsan
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05-30-2012, 11:25 AM
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The controller was designed for some of the TS projects working on. The biggest point being you can use any combination of the thing. Maybe when the system gets higher powered you can use 2 Fets in parallel on serial switch.
Or maybe 4 Fets in one position then you can drive the whole board with one input and have 4 high powered Fets to do the work of that position. Its meant to be versatile. On another project I have 1 board running 4 switch's. And one board running 4 switch's as one switch. It's just a generic driver you can use for anything. I have another one also that I am working on but more than likely I will sell them pre assembled when I get it to 1 mhz speeds. Its more like a solid state relay than anything, But you can use whatever rated Fet you want. Matt
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05-30-2012, 01:13 PM
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Hi Matt
With all these projects you are working on and you have time to answer our questions ! God bless you Ehsan
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05-30-2012, 11:33 PM
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HI Dave , Matt Eshan and ALL
Okay, we are down , doing Daves and will order for Matt's Scalar charger, we need some thing to do till we can order Daves/Matt's boards LOL, we have a lot of parts from Matt's original that we can recycle and get into this. Eager to show off the new work shop, we had to get one since white ants are hungry and collapsed our old house...I consider Matt and Dave as white ants to the system too LOL Ash
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05-31-2012, 09:18 AM
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Cheers Matt
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06-01-2012, 01:06 AM
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06-01-2012, 08:54 AM
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Hi ewizard Thank you ,that's what I thought but I want to be sure that those resistors can fit into the PCB ,and you make it clear
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06-01-2012, 03:31 PM
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06-01-2012, 03:45 PM
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I have one of these (made back in 70') fitted into small DC motor from a toy. - Mini Keyless Chuck 3/32" Shank For Micro Drill Bits | eBay
It works great for drilling PCB's. Vtech
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06-01-2012, 06:21 PM
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Hi Matt
Before I will make my order I want to be sure that this Fet is Working fine or not http://ixdev.ixys.com/DataSheet/DS99...-TQ50N25T).pdf It's 250v 50A Ehsan
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06-01-2012, 09:19 PM
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Ya that might work. The big issue with it is a 400 watt, So you might run into problems with it. But you could parallel several if you find a weak point.
The biggest thing I am worried about is the cap dump portion. If your cap is say 10000 uf and you charge it to 48 volt and dump it into a 24 volt battery with that Fet you'll have a 100 nanosecond pulse of 24 volt at 480 amps. Those numbers are off So you can see that might stress the Fet out a bit, but like I said you can give it a try. Also make sure to include a good heat sink. Much over 40 deg Centigrade you are going to lower the conduction rapidly. So you wanna keep that little thing cool as possible. Matt
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06-01-2012, 10:31 PM
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Hi Matt
Thank you for the explanation although I didn't understand some of it because its above my understanding but I think it dose not worth to try and then blow some thing and then wait untill get the new order which it will be the same as you refer to in previous post I mean IXFN180N25T-ND It's 155A 250v to be in the save side . And I ordered also (338-1988-ND) it's 15000mf 100v cap And this ultra fast diode (30EPH03PBF-ND) It's 300v 30A and the ather parts ar the same as Dave list. These parts I orderes from Digi-key Ehsan
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06-01-2012, 10:47 PM
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Ya thats the safe way to go. You can always lean the system down later once you have all the power mapped out.
The thing you gotta watch is Watts, At least that been my experience. If the watts aren't high and the conduction is not high enough at Higher heat level than usually they don't hold up very well. The other thing you have to watch is the voltage of the transients. If the Bypass diode is not rated high enough the spikes will eat ya up. Thats what I like about the IXYS miniblocks. They can take beating. They'll still burn up if your not careful but its easier to see whats going on then make the correct adjustment. They have High watt counts and that helps alot. Matt
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06-03-2012, 11:51 PM
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Partial Success
Hi all
I'm still working with the original set-up. I can take 204 watts of power, off the dead battery,...I'm running 3 loads, an 18volt cordless impact, " " " " drill, " " sawsall, My primaries (good bats) hold and climb, when my switching is working. If I could keep the switching working properly I'm sure it will run.  I've tried many different mechanical set-up's, but the wires eventually burn out  I have a generator connected to my motor that works off the positive of the dead battery ,and the positive of the # 1 ,good battery , this connects to the positive and negative of the #2 ,good battery. The switching has to intterupt the flow to the coils(in the charger) at just the right time. I checked the #'s on the tools (204W), but tried to check what the rad fan was drawing(it was more than 7amps dc,melted the test lead in my hand), Trying to build some form of brushes or a switch, that's where the answer is. shylo
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06-05-2012, 12:06 AM
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I don't use steel for back plates this was my 1st attempt
I tried using an old armature, and a set of brushes as a switch,it worked quite well,the only thing was the more area you cover with the brush,the more drag you create  But if you can make multiple connections at the same time ,in the right sequence, hence the switch The only way is to reduce the size of the brush(or contact) shylo
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06-05-2012, 12:58 AM
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Questions
Hi shylo,
I am also somewhat confused. I hope you don't mind if I ask some questions to try and understand what you are doing. Also a schematic would be a big help. Quote:
Carroll
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06-05-2012, 11:36 PM
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Thanks shylo
Ok now I think I see what you are doing. You are using the coil shorting process that I have seen on some other forums. Are you shorting the coil multiple times at the peak of the voltage curve or only once? I have seen some circuits on this forum or another one for doing that electronically. I'll have to look for it if you are interested in going that way. If I understand the process right this shorting allows you to get a lot more power from the generator without any additional drag on the motor. Is that correct? So then you are able to keep the primary batteries charged while running the 3BGS. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Carroll
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