You cant fix multiple batteries because your potential is always to low.

I am going to try another arrangement tomorrow and see if I can find a path for both routes of power to get back to the main battery. The dead batteries act as an Isolator.


Matt

Very nice videos Matt, thanks very much for sharing!
I seem to be reminded constantly of my lack of electronics experience. I have been seeing similar results for a couple of weeks on some of my setups, with loading and unloading bat3 and seeing bats 1 and 2 spike up on recovery. I never did anything with it, because I figured it was removing the load from bat3 that was allowing some relaxation in bats 1 and 2...
oh well, live and learn

Here is what I am thinking for the most practical use of this system, given the current findings and direction it looks like it may be headed.
In my opinion, and please understand this is only the opinion of a novice, so feel free to correct me if I am wrong, the best use for this system seems to me to be a short run cycle that drives a generator to charge a larger battery bank.
very similar to a solar setup, but with the 3BGS in place of the solar panels.
I have noticed along with others that there seems to be a time limit this system can run and still get full recovery out of the primary bats.
perhaps, rather than trying to run a whole house on this, it would be more practical to use this system only when needed to charge up the large battery banks needed to run a home.
with a switching method in place, it would be hard to run a constant load on the motor, because it will fluctuate with the switch. with the current time constraints on how long it can run and still fully recover, it makes a lot more sense to me to use this for only a couple of hours at a time to top off large battery banks, which could be charged with the motor running a genny that charges the bat bank. You could even set this up with a circuit that kicks on automatically when the batteries in the bank drop to a certain point, and to kick off when fully charged.
Again, this is my opinion based on where things are at right now. As things progress, who knows where it could go from here, but this might just be a way to get this running in a home as it sits, and make great use of it.
no worries about a lack of sunlight or wind to charge the battery bank, it could work all year round, and as long as the runs are short, the primary batteries wouldn't run down. keep a load on bat3 to always have it drained, and there is no reason why this couldn't work in the way I have described. It would be a very cheep easy way to get consistent charging of a home system, regardless of weather or other mitigating factors on other off grid systems.
Perhaps I am way off base here, and by no means am I settling on where we are. I am going to keep testing and trying new things right along with everyone else who is running this right now and trying to break through these current barriers, but thinking about it as it stands now, I can see this as a really practical way to get this used in a home right now, with little modification to the way it runs already.
my 2 cents
N8

Neight,
You may be right, but then again, we have done no long term runs to see the effect this system has on the batteries. I have been running the same batteries with it on and off for the last four years, which is a good sign, but that isn't consistent. It could very well be harmful to the batteries for all we know.

With what Matt has shown us in just the last couple days I would think we might soon have a consistent source of power out of this thing. Matt wasn't running much of a load on the motor and if you will notice in the video he said he needed a load on the motor. I agree with this. The issue is, how much of a load can we run and still get the primary batteries to maintain charge. We haven't done enough testing to know that. We haven't upped the input voltages to 72, 84, 96, 108 volts on motors that run on those voltages, which most probably could turn a generator consistently and produce power. So there is a LOT of testing to do before we know what we really have here. And how many batteries do we need for our "sink?" It has only been two months, and we are just FINALLY getting some folks who will run this stuff on the bench instead of just talking about it.

And could there POSSIBLY be a system more simple to run than this one? No experience needed, and almost anybody who is sincere about wanting to replicate can come up with the materials to do so, even if it takes them a couple months. So we need as many people messing with this as possible.

Have we already proven beyond a doubt that this thing puts out more energy than you put into it? I'd like to think so, but who knows. There's a $10,000 prize out there for the "One Watt Challenge" that would go a long way toward helping with the research on this (or other projects) and since we have open sourced it, nobody has anything to lose by attempting to collect on that. They can't steal what we have given away. Matt may be the closest to having something that could actually meet the challenge, and if he did, oh how the pooh would hit the propeller!

http://www.zpower.com/en/documents/P...tChallenge.pdf

That is not the ONLY challenge that has been issued to the free energy community, so there is some money to be made just by producing a system that actually works...provided these people offering the prizes actually deliver. But it sure would be fun to shut some of them up for good.

Dave

The one watt challenge is BS. It requires a closed loop in the rules, or in other words a grounded circuit. And they already know you cannot get even 1 watt out more, in pure electric, than you put in, under those conditions.

So even though I have build A Benitez Potential Generator that has a COP of 64, confirmed, and proves without doubt an ungrounded circuit will out perform anything conventional has to offer, it will not pass that challenge.

The requirement for a ground is solely based on the mathematic end of engineering. With out the exact math no circuit can be proven. There is to much environmental interaction and it is not thermal so there is no standards for the math.

It a bummer for sure.

Matt

Hi Everyone,

I found someone who will take 15 of my used C&D AGM Batteries as cores against 15 used Golf Cart batteries - only 6 of which he deemed as being "trustworthy"... So this will give me at least 36 volts for primaries and up to as many as 9 candidates for bad batteries... All for $25 apiece so I hope to have those by the end of the week...

Hopefully some of the 9 "untrustworthy" batteries can be rejuvenated as well... Anyways, just checking in and posting a status. I've got some pulleys to get as well as another 24-volt currie motor...

Cheers,

Luther

Check the fluid in the batteries. Alot of used golf cart batteries have been topped with tap water.

More than likely you can get them back to some point but you'll have to change the fluid out. Once tap water with it lime and chlorine are introduced the acid no longer works as expected.

Buy that book I link to earlier, you won't regret it.

Matt

Could you attach larger picture of schematic ? I see there is a choke there which may generate spikes ??

Hello Dave
I completely agree with you. I was in no way trying to finalize this system, and agree there is more work to be done with it.
I was mostly trying to show that there may be a practical use for the system as it stands now, and anything else gained will only help that along.
As far as any "overunity prize" I am not really interested. If anyone working on this deserves an incentive for it, it would be you, since it was you who brought this to us, and has spent the time in on it already.
I absolutely think there is a lot more to learn about this system, and more progress to be made, and I am more than happy to be along for the ride
I have a couple of days off this week, and will be making some more runs on this, and will try to replicate what Matt has shown in his last video, so we have more data coming in on that.

N8

I don't really know how to make the schematic any bigger. Maybe you can save it to your computer and then open it with paint. That was how I edited it for the changes I made. The choke is there to prevent any spikes from getting to the opto and false triggering the mosfets.

Carroll

Is this the blue light that was talked about earlier?
If the light is orange or a dull brown you don't get the voltage spikes.
The blue light sends the voltage readings off the scale.
I think this is what might be happening in the brush contacts of the motor.
I made these sparks by shorting the coils.
I'm having a hard time trying to catch the spikes ,capacitors seem to be a step in the right direction.
Shorting the coils gives infinite resistance ..correct?
Matt I think tapping the resistor is doing the same thing, but on a smaller scale.
Just some tests I've been doing , could be totally wrong though.

shylosmall spark,low volts.jpg

Great results Matt! Neight I agree this could be used
right now. It could be run continuously with multiple
systems and lots of batteries switching between setups.

I got my motor couplers yesterday but don't know
when I will try putting anything together. Just resting
after a lot of days of working. Good to see all the progress
and more members coming on board.

George

Hello to all, its been a while, just tried the basic setup again last night, been busy at work. Anyways, I have 1 sulfated car battery, I tried it in the bat3 position and 2 6volt battery. 2BGS set up, I using a bigger motor from a printer, it's not burning anymore. I used a Bedini Relay Charger as a load on bat3. and the Bidini Charger Charging another 6 volt. I agree with Neight's Idea as a charging system replacing solar panels. I run it for an hour. The problem is keeping the bad battery from recovering. After running the set up my bat3 bad battery is holding 12.3 volts from only 4+ volts at start up. and it continue to run the Bedini charger for I think 30 min before stopping. after the run the primary recovered after 15 min.

I also tried using the bedini charger in place of the motor. No loss on primary voltage, I connected the + backemf of the charger to the positive of the primary battery. and bat3 running Leds light, I let it run for an hour also.

@ Shylo try restraining the motor from moving and tapping the positive to the primary,it makes blue sparks. just like Matts resistor tapping

Welcome back George, good to see you
It's funny, the system I have built in my head to run my house is actually about as simple to build as it gets...
A large bank of deep cycle batteries, possibly converted to alum batteries, so they can take a little more punishment and not have as much damage. Add Lasersaber's large joule ringer that he uses to power his shop, to reduce the power it takes to run the system. Possibly some large SEC for wireless lighting. The part I have been missing so far has been a reliable way to charge the battery banks without getting into wind or solar. I haven't built an energizer large enough to recharge big batteries, but I have been scratching my head over what to use as a charger. Now here we have an incredibly simple to run system that could easily power a generator large enough to charge big banks of batteries, and no worries on input power....
Things are coming together, and at this point, I mostly just need to buy the parts it would take to build it all.

I think that sometimes we miss the mark on this and other forums. many of us have been looking for that one machine that does it all, and has power left to spare. To me, the best system is a mix of things already proven to work, and if you can put the right combination together, living off grid without having to worry about wind or sunshine really shouldn't be much of a problem.
perhaps I am being overly simple here, but from where I am sitting, living off grid is just a "stones throw" away from where I am now. None of the systems I have mentioned take much investment, the largest of those would be the battery bank, but if you can repair some old batteries, or convert them to alum and have them work good as new, you can even get them reasonably cheep.
don't want to derail this thread, but I have been thinking about this for quite some time now, and just wanted to throw some of these things out into the open.

N8

After skimming the 1 watt challenge by Hal Puthoff I'm going to say he's full of B.S. in more ways than you can count. His statement: " Similarly,
in briefing various government agencies, including the DOD, NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology, formerly the National Bureau of Standards), and the Patent Office, we did not encounter any evidence of suppression or hindrance of our efforts, only encouragement." shows he is either full of it or clueless as we have proof to the contrary in some official patent office memo's that clearly state otherwise.

I suspect that the issue Matt mentioned regarding a ground is there because they KNOW most ZPE or radiant energy devices will fail when grounded.

Its been a long standing challenge since the 80's (When 10k was alot of money). I think the DOE first presented it in 84 or something like that. It was designed to suppress information, but not in a typical way. It was there so the people who were thinking outside the box would get attracted to it and try to make it work under the rules.
Tom Bearden explains it somewhere. He also talks about the Lorentz "Symmetrical regauge of the Heaviside component". The entire rule of the ground was to stabilize the mathematics and to do away with any environmental (Ether) interaction. And without the environment it is impossible to have an additional input of energy into a circuit. Likewise with Thermal Energy. If we did not exchange thermal energy with the environment we could never change temperatures in a room.
And the physicists who designed the one watt challenge know this absolutely.
Quantum and Astro physics deals with it on a regular basis. You cannot create energy, but you can create and environment or an environmental reaction that attracts and stores energy. Again anything Thermal based will discuss this.

So anyway If you meet somebody from the DOE let the bird fly, and give them a vulgar piece of your mind.

Matt

Tom Bearden explains it somewhere. He also talks about the Lorentz "Symmetrical regauge of the Heaviside component". The entire rule of the ground was to stabilize the mathematics and to do away with any environmental (Ether) interaction. And without the environment it is impossible to have an additional input of energy into a circuit. Likewise with Thermal Energy. If we did not exchange thermal energy with the environment we could never change temperatures in a room.
And the physicists who designed the one watt challenge know this absolutely.
Quantum and Astro physics deals with it on a regular basis. You cannot create energy, but you can create and environment or an environmental reaction that attracts and stores energy.

I second that

Vtech

Matt, I did a several hour run yesterday, and was able to raise the voltage on my two primary batteries by over a volt, so I'm thinking this is working fairly well. Today I am going to try exactly the same thing, but with a bigger load on the motor. (Connect it to some lights or something)

I also want to try it with my big motor with generators unconnected to loads and see how it runs on just the 3BGS turning the two motors, without any additional primary batteries. Hopefully it will do ok, but I know it will be slow. There is just so much to test with this.

I want to start looking for a gen head and the motor to run it, so that I'm building a practical system. There are just not enough hours in the day!!

I almost have my test setup complete. At least I can do testing with it!!

3BGS Test Setup - YouTube

Dave

Nice setup Dave I'm waiting for bigger motor to arrive in the mail, hopefully soon My brush-less motor isn't "producing" desirable effect.

Cheers
Vtech

minoly,
I will do the video you asked for of how to tune to get into the zone as soon as I get my small 12 volt lights and switches installed. That's all you need except a constant load on the motor. For some reason, without at least a little load on the motor, you cannot tune the system to get it into the zone. Or maybe you CAN, but it is an unbelievable PAIN. Then it is just a matter of adding a small load to battery three. The motor speeds up...you wait five minutes to see if it speeds up a second time on its own. If it doesn't, add another small load. You keep doing this until one time during that five minute wait it suddenly speeds up on its own, and you are in the zone. I don't know if I can capture all that on a YouTube video given the time limits, but I'll give it a shot. Or maybe I can get a system into the zone and then back off a couple loads to take it out of the zone and show you adding a load where the motor speeds up and adding the next load where the motor speeds up, and then speeds up AGAIN on its own.

I have all those 12 volt bulbs because I want to be able to get my big motor with a heavy load (running two motors as generators) into the zone, and I don't know exactly what it will take. If I have 25 watts worth of small bulbs, like four one watt bulbs, 2 five watt bulbs, and one ten watt bulb, I will have all possible combination I could possibly need to balance the load on the motor....when added t what I already have.....I think. Anyway that's my plan.

But just to be clear here, there is no GAIN getting the system to run in the zone. It's just that it uses NO energy and your batteries completely recover to whatever their voltage was right when you got it into the zone. So you might lose a few hundredths or even a few tenths getting into the zone and then run it for hours and hours and it is only those few tenths that you lost. Does that make sense? If you are very, very fast at getting into the zone you MIGHT see a slight gain, but it won't be much. I just want to be able to get my big setup into the zone to have an emergency source of power RIGHT NOW. Then keep working on developing this until the zone no longer matters.

The only time I have really seen SIGNIFICANT gains on the primaries since starting to post on this forum has been from Matt's setup with the 100 watt 1 ohm resistor. And remember, he said you needed a load on the motor to get it to work. You MUST have a load on the motor. And if it isn't a consistent load, you will NEVER get it into the zone.

I don't know if you have noticed, but neither Matt nor I CARE if we get into the zone anymore. It really isn't important when you can short out battery three and gain voltage in your primaries while still running the motor with a load on it...like a GENERATOR. What we are focusing on NOW is how much of a load can you run...how many batteries in series does it take and how many bad batteries in your sink do you have to have. How do we get all the power that is in this system back into the primary batteries. A tiny little motor in the zone is now just a toy. I want something that is going to produce some power, and that's why I have invested the time and money into my testing setup. Not to mention the batteries I have on order.

But a video would still be a good thing, so I will do one.

As for what makes a "good" bad battery.....mine reads 0 volts at rest, but will charge up to about 10 or 11 volts if ALLOWED to, which I do NOT allow. But it will lose that charge in just a few minutes. For me, it is a GREAT bad battery. This is the battery I put metal shavings into four of the six cells. It took time for this battery to get to where it is now, and it may eventually get to the point where it is useless. I don't know. It was a battery that was sitting at around 8 volts and I thought I would experiment with it.

I found a 'FLICKER BULB" that was 120 volt, and started looking for one that was 12 volt to use across battery 3 instead of the 100 watt 1 ohm resistor, and ran across this circuit, which is probably far more complex than what we need, but there are some good ideas here.
Flicker Circuit


Dave

Also I have 3 setups going and only one is doing well. So don't be surprised if you have not found the perfect combination. And thats exactly what your going to find if you keep trying. You'll see.

Matt

Just ran one of the tests I wanted to run while waiting on some other stuff. I connected my big motor first. With only two batteries to provide power to the 110 volt DC motor, it would not turn the two motors as generators. It would not turn one of the two motors as a generator. BUT, when connected directly to one 12 volt battery, it will turn BOTH of the motors as generators and they are putting out about 34 volts each. They pegged my gauge, which only goes up to 30 volts DC, so I had to put a meter on them to get the voltage. I took the belts off the pulleys on the big motor, eliminating its load except for the two big pulleys which act as flywheels. The primaries showed around 12.14 volts and by shorting across battery three, I took the voltage on battery two up to 12.24 in just a couple minutes. But I could NOT get it to go any higher than that with the big motor.

I disconnected the big motor and connected my Razor scooter motors The voltage on battery 2 dropped to 12.16-12.17. When I short out, it will drop down to around 12.14, go back up to 12.16, and spike up to 12.19 or 12.20.

So I disconnected the Razor scooter motors, connected the larger motor again, and the voltage on battery two immediately went back up to 12. 23. I disconnected and connected the smaller motor, and it dropped back down to 12.16-12.17. I tried this with three different meters and got the same results. For some reason, when the larger motor is connected the batteries show a higher standing voltage. More wire in the motor coils maybe???

To All,
Is there anyway to capture the high voltage spikes, from shorting the coils?
Shorting could be the same as switching....

I have found ways of increasing, output.


shylo

Hi Dave,

yes, it sounds like that. Motors made for higher voltages (just like transformers) have more turns and thinner wire which in your case lets you end up with both higher resistance and impedance letting through less amps. I think your primaries simply stand higher because the bigger motor consumes less then the lower voltage razor ones.

regards,
Mario

What is of special interest to me is that I could not run the motor with the two generators connected to it. or with even ONE generator connected to it as the motor for the 3BGS, but I COULD run the motor with both generators connected to it when connected directly to ONE battery. So I will have to have several batteries in series to provide the current required to run this motor as part of the 3BGS if I want two generators connected to it.

shylo,
I'm not ignoring you, just don't have the answer you're looking for. What did you find to increase the output?

Matt,
I keep thinking about your simple motor as the motor for the 3BGS and wondering if it would for. Since I have a couple of them, I might give that a try. Have you already tried it? I know the simple circuit was what made it work, but I was curious about how it would work with this setup.

Dave

Heck for that matter a switch alone might work. You might not need any motor at all just pulse. Try a small system with a transistor driven off of the stamp chip.

Matt

The pos and neg plates are the ''dead battery''. Same principe as hutchison crystal batteries, kapanadze, Ossie Callanan, bedini, newman, gray, morray and so on. You get the point?? Now, we can ''create'' the dead battery. It's a battery that consist of voltage potential with a very small current. Crystal battery!! Put them in series and you got it! What it take is a sulfate and a sulfide. Like lead sulfate crystals and lead sulfide crystals (galena) in a common dead lead-acid battery. Galena is a semi-conductor doping agent. Build crystal batteries made of magnesium and copper. The crystals are magnesium sulfate (epson salts) doped with impurities of iron sulfide (iron pyrite) and lead sulfide (galena). I'm sure i'm on something here....

Hi all! I'm new on this tread and I want to congrats all of you for the hard work you put on.

Welcome.

Remember this is working thread so, your theories are welcome but you have to go out of your way to work them yourself. Proofs in the puddin.


@All
New video for ya Davids Setup 5
This is the schematic.



It hard to explain but give it try and see if it will run stable for ya.

Cheers
Matt

Hi Matt,

In the schematic you just posted is R the 1 ohm 100 watt resistor you have been using? And are you leaving it connected all the time or are you still pulsing it across the bad batt. I have two bad batts connected in parallel but am looking for another to try your setup. I am looking through my batts for another dead one but haven't found one dead enough yet. Thanks for all you have shared.

Carroll