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  #571  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:11 AM
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And I also know...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Ufopolotics,

Razor scooter motors are brushed DC motors. I have three of them and have had them apart.

Which motor are you using for your replication of the circuit?

Dave
And Turion,

I also know that when a Motor is running (as Motor) it is not producing-generating current ...BUT, it DOES generates Instant Radiant Energy running opposite as Hot is inducing it by energizing each coil.
Radiant Electromagnetic Field rises as Hot pulses go Off (In this case it happens at every 180 Degrees Reversal Turn of each group of Coils in the segment of the quadrant.

As I also have a second test to run after this one...based only on Four Brush set Motors...

Regards

Ufopolitics
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  #572  
Old 03-31-2012, 11:48 AM
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I figured there would be something wrong with them...

They are actually pretty good generators as well if you compare them to the motor function. I have some elongated motors that can't stack up in over all output. They do use them to regenerative breaking and such.
The voltage is low but the current is usually pretty strong at low rpm's.

On another note has anyone tried to short a battery out and see how that battery acts? I know Dave put filling in his but I am talking about 2 physical plates touching or something along those lines?

I didn't read anything but I wanted to make sure before I go out and really ruin this battery.

ONE THING I WANTED ADD.... These motors aren't Curries, they are United Motors. The curries are a step up in performance. FYI

Cheers
Matt
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  #573  
Old 03-31-2012, 11:52 AM
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If you have a larger size printer you can pull apart, I have one motor from a printer that works really well as a genny.
I am using a smaller motor from the same printer as my running motor, and this larger motor will easily put out 20V @ a couple of amps running as a generator.
I wish I had some specs to give on this motor, but the markings on the side are just a string of part numbers, though I can try and look them up, see if I find anything.
I can run several different motors as loads on this bigger motors output.
I have even had a 12V light bulb running with a 12V PC cooling fan, both at the same time, both at full brightness/speed respectively. It will charge a 12V battery, as I have also tested this.
you aren't going to run a house on it, but for small applications, it hasn't failed me yet!

I did look up the motor brand and part number, and it looks like this is a 18-24V printer carriage motor. I am quite sure if I hooked it up to an even bigger motor, I could get better output, but this is the largest motor I have right now.

if anyone is interested, here is the brand and part number
Johnson C9058-60071
if you google that, you will find lots of them for sale on ebay, and other places.
using my smaller 7Ah batteries, this thing works great. I am still planning on trying the 120V router motor on a setup, but that will have to wait until after the weekend, as I am working the next two days.

When I have some time, I will take a video of my setup, so you guys can see the motor I have driving this one, and the size comparison.

again, this isn't something that will run a house, or even an inverter that I know of, but it is great to power smaller loads, or charge smaller batteries.
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  #574  
Old 03-31-2012, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I figured there would be something wrong with them...

They are actually pretty good generators as well if you compare them to the motor function. I have some elongated motors that can't stack up in over all output. They do use them to regenerative breaking and such.
The voltage is low but the current is usually pretty strong at low rpm's.

On another note has anyone tried to short a battery out and see how that battery acts? I know Dave put filling in his but I am talking about 2 physical plates touching or something along those lines?

I didn't read anything but I wanted to make sure before I go out and really ruin this battery.

Cheers
Matt
I have shorted out pretty much every bat3 that I have used. though mine have all been damaged to some extent, or just plain small, like my alum battery that I have used the most.
from the runs where I had the batteries shorted, I did seem to lose some voltage in the primary batteries, or at least they wouldn't fully recover after the run. The motor will speed up nicely, and it still doesn't draw much power, but the loss shows up in recovery.

N8
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  #575  
Old 03-31-2012, 12:08 PM
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I have shorted out pretty much every bat3 that I have used. though mine have all been damaged to some extent, or just plain small, like my alum battery that I have used the most.
from the runs where I had the batteries shorted, I did seem to lose some voltage in the primary batteries, or at least they wouldn't fully recover after the run. The motor will speed up nicely, and it still doesn't draw much power, but the loss shows up in recovery.

N8
Shorted out the plates? Internally?

Matt
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  #576  
Old 03-31-2012, 12:13 PM
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on my alum battery, yes, as that one has no external casing. It has 4 plates, and I have touched them together at one end to short the battery.
my other batteries I have used, no I don't go digging inside them

the motor speeds up in both cases, and both ways there was some loss in the primary batteries.

the first time I shorted the alum battery this way was actually on accident, before I had the cardboard separators between the plates. at that time, the plates were just balanced in a glass of alum solution. I moved the glass and the plates shifted and touched, and the motor sped up. I followed this to see what would happen, and I didn't get full recovery.
I have one battery with a cell that is disintegrating inside, and it works well as bat3, though I do not know if the plates in that one cell are shorted.
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  #577  
Old 03-31-2012, 01:21 PM
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Thanks

Matt
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  #578  
Old 03-31-2012, 02:09 PM
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All,
Maybe I missed it, but I haven't seen anyone who has tried a small motor with the original circuit and the two diodes across the batteries as Matt suggested. This produced SIGNIFICANT charging in batteries one and two for me in a VERY short amount of time. My only concern was the temp of the motor. But having run it with some extended runs since then, that has become less of a concern.

I still have some things on my list from yesterday to try out, but before I do that, I want to go back to my small motor running the original circuit with the two diodes. I am going to do a thirty minute run of my motor connected ONLY to a 12 volt battery and record the temp with my laser meter. Then I will run it on the circuit with the diodes until the motor temp exceeds the temp from running it on a single 12 volt battery. That way I can just let it run and not worry about how hot it gets. I haven't measured the voltage output from the generator attached, but it SEEMS to be pretty good, and I definitely need to do that today.

THIS motor with THAT circuit produced IMPRESSIVE results. Isn't that where we should start? If there is concern that the motor will burn up because the Radiant is trapped inside the motor, lets figure out how to get it out of a working setup rather than abandoning that setup. If it works, don't fix it. I usually don't have time on the weekends to work on this, but today is an exception. My wonderful wife is going out to lunch and a movie with an old friend, so I should have five or six hours to spend. So after I get the baseline heat evaluations done, I will run the setup using the two diodes, just to reconfirm the positive results I saw the other day. THEN I'll look at adding the diodes Ufopolitics suggested to the circuit already containing the diodes Matt suggested. There should not be any conflict between the two as far as I can tell. But I KNOW what Matt suggested made a change in the voltages on batteries one and two.

So, if Matt's change gets it to charge and Ufopolitics gets the radiant out of the motor so it doesn't heat up, without messing up the current flow that is causing the charging.........????

Dave
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  #579  
Old 03-31-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
All,
Maybe I missed it, but I haven't seen anyone who has tried a small motor with the original circuit and the two diodes across the batteries as Matt suggested. This produced SIGNIFICANT charging in batteries one and two for me in a VERY short amount of time. My only concern was the temp of the motor. But having run it with some extended runs since then, that has become less of a concern.

I still have some things on my list from yesterday to try out, but before I do that, I want to go back to my small motor running the original circuit with the two diodes. I am going to do a thirty minute run of my motor connected ONLY to a 12 volt battery and record the temp with my laser meter. Then I will run it on the circuit with the diodes until the motor temp exceeds the temp from running it on a single 12 volt battery. That way I can just let it run and not worry about how hot it gets. I haven't measured the voltage output from the generator attached, but it SEEMS to be pretty good, and I definitely need to do that today.

THIS motor with THAT circuit produced IMPRESSIVE results. Isn't that where we should start? If there is concern that the motor will burn up because the Radiant is trapped inside the motor, lets figure out how to get it out of a working setup rather than abandoning that setup. If it works, don't fix it. I usually don't have time on the weekends to work on this, but today is an exception. My wonderful wife is going out to lunch and a movie with an old friend, so I should have five or six hours to spend. So after I get the baseline heat evaluations done, I will run the setup using the two diodes, just to reconfirm the positive results I saw the other day. THEN I'll look at adding the diodes Ufopolitics suggested to the circuit already containing the diodes Matt suggested. There should not be any conflict between the two as far as I can tell. But I KNOW what Matt suggested made a change in the voltages on batteries one and two.

So, if Matt's change gets it to charge and Ufopolitics gets the radiant out of the motor so it doesn't heat up, without messing up the current flow that is causing the charging.........????

Dave
Hey Turion
in posts 551 and 553 I shared my results from using two 1n4001's across battery 3.

I am also planning on running one with the diodes as shown by UFopolitics this week. I will also do a run with both sets of diodes in place. I am not sure the diodes I have will be big enough for the UFopolitics setup, but they are supposed to be fast switching, I got them from radio shack.
I can look through my junk circuit boards and see if I can scrounge up some others to try.
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  #580  
Old 03-31-2012, 03:14 PM
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Neight,
If I am reading this right, you had a voltage gain with BOTH the 3BGS and 2BGS using the two diodes across battery three and small motors. Correct? So so far, everyone who has TRIED it with small motors has been successful. Anybody else???

Dave
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  #581  
Old 03-31-2012, 03:32 PM
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I got an old drill I will strip the motor out of and give it shot, see if the small motor does better.

Matt
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  #582  
Old 03-31-2012, 04:18 PM
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As Luther and I have discussed, and I shared with Matt, the things that i think MIGHT carry the success of his dual diode version to a larger motor which has more wire of greater diameter are:

1. Higher source of voltage (For me, Is shouldn't expect to be successful running a 110 volt motor on 24 volts in comparison to running a 12 volt motor on 24 volts.)
2. Larger batteries. I am using 18 amp hour batteries for the smaller motors, which have a certain sized lead plate in them. Perhaps using LARGER batteries with larger lead plate surface is necessary for the larger motor.
3. Wires. I am using #6 wire with the small motor. I will increase the wire size for the larger motor to 0 or at least 1.
4. A different diode. I am using the 408's which are slow, but maybe there is something slower.
5. Adding a resistor before each diode to further restrict current flow.

Those are the things I am going to work on, as well as any others I can come up with.

Ufopolitics, as your work experience is in motors and motor design, is there a large motor that could produce the horsepower to run a generator that you feel would work best for what we are trying to do here? If there is, I will purchase it. I am committed to this project because I have SEEN what can be done with a working system. I would think that something with replaceable brushes and solid bearings would be the best candidate, since replacing brushes may be something you want to do once in a while.
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  #583  
Old 03-31-2012, 07:24 PM
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ok i tried to have the diodes in place like ufo said... the forward diode to third battery gets very hot .. since there is lot of current flowing thru.. so decided to have a small brushed motor from a rc heli , but still very hot ....

1. test says to use diode after motor.. no way it can survive the current passing thru....

2. other test i replaced the dead battery with a 9v battery duracel.. it ran initially the small motor slowly , then what i noticed was the variation in the motor speed , it gained and 9v battery became warm.. i let it run .. the motor speed went more and after a min or 2 the 9v battery exploded..but still have charge..

3. ok no harms , i have another 9v battery which is used . i charged it like this in few mins and it charged very fast..

don't know what i can infer from this ..

setup is same as ufo posted but without the forward diode ..i don't have high current diodes

thinking of getting these high current diodes , any suggestions :
RHRG75120 High Current High Voltage Fast Soft Recovery Diode 75A 1200V TO247 on eBay!
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  #584  
Old 03-31-2012, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hello_all View Post
ok i tried to have the diodes in place like ufo said... the forward diode to third battery gets very hot .. since there is lot of current flowing thru.. so decided to have a small brushed motor from a rc heli , but still very hot ....

1. test says to use diode after motor.. no way it can survive the current passing thru....

2. other test i replaced the dead battery with a 9v battery duracel.. it ran initially the small motor slowly , then what i noticed was the variation in the motor speed , it gained and 9v battery became warm.. i let it run .. the motor speed went more and after a min or 2 the 9v battery exploded..but still have charge..

3. ok no harms , i have another 9v battery which is used . i charged it like this in few mins and it charged very fast..

don't know what i can infer from this ..

setup is same as ufo posted but without the forward diode ..i don't have high current diodes

thinking of getting these high current diodes , any suggestions :
RHRG75120 High Current High Voltage Fast Soft Recovery Diode 75A 1200V TO247 on eBay!
You don't need to spend that much on diodes. Diode pretty much will run its amp rating. I doubt you pushing more than 10 amp or so.
These are a dollar and from digikey. You never know about Ebay

Digi-Key - 497-6082-5-ND (Manufacturer - STTH2006W)

You can search digikey and find fast recoveries that might do the trick for ya for less even.

Cheers
Matt
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  #585  
Old 03-31-2012, 08:17 PM
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Which Diode Spec's did You use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hello_all View Post
ok i tried to have the diodes in place like ufo said... the forward diode to third battery gets very hot .. since there is lot of current flowing thru.. so decided to have a small brushed motor from a rc heli , but still very hot ....

1. test says to use diode after motor.. no way it can survive the current passing thru....

2. other test i replaced the dead battery with a 9v battery duracel.. it ran initially the small motor slowly , then what i noticed was the variation in the motor speed , it gained and 9v battery became warm.. i let it run .. the motor speed went more and after a min or 2 the 9v battery exploded..but still have charge..

3. ok no harms , i have another 9v battery which is used . i charged it like this in few mins and it charged very fast..

don't know what i can infer from this ..

setup is same as ufo posted but without the forward diode ..i don't have high current diodes

thinking of getting these high current diodes , any suggestions :
RHRG75120 High Current High Voltage Fast Soft Recovery Diode 75A 1200V TO247 on eBay!
Hello,

Which Diodes did you use for this test you ran?
Could you give Us spec's of them?

As I understand "Forward Diode" (sorry, but the term is too relative, depending if are looking from battery or motor...) is the one running from Negative Motor to Positive of Old Battery...Am I correct?

If it is that one, and it is Not A Heavy Body Ultra-fast Rectifier, like I specified, it WILL get HOT, as the Old Battery charges Up...One of that Diode's "Job" is to block the Positive from Old Battery to return to the Motor...The more it charges...the hotter it will get .

But anyways, I see You did it almost right, except for Diodes spec's...
sorry about your battery...Alkaline Batteries should NOT be even tried to be charged...but I guess you've learned that by now...just be careful.

Thanks.

Ufopolitics
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  #586  
Old 03-31-2012, 08:31 PM
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Sorry Matt...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
You don't need to spend that much on diodes. Diode pretty much will run its amp rating. I doubt you pushing more than 10 amp or so.
These are a dollar and from digikey. You never know about Ebay

Digi-Key - 497-6082-5-ND (Manufacturer - STTH2006W)

You can search digikey and find fast recoveries that might do the trick for ya for less even.

Cheers
Matt

Hey Matt,

I am sorry to be in disagreement with you again!!
But, I particularly do not like the TO 200 Family type diodes...Maybe is because I had previous very bad experiences with them...
In prior Motor controllers I had used them right next to each MOSFET's...and they had gone bad...the worst part is that they go bad by short circuiting anode-cathode (meaning Drain-Source)...almost never open...and caused further damages...To my concept they are designed for "Lighter Duty" Jobs...

I believe they will never perform like a heavy body rectifier like NTE576.
Which is also the one specified at lower link...with different crossover number (UF5404)

Specification of ultra fast recovery diode and rectifier


Regards

Ufopolitics
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  #587  
Old 03-31-2012, 08:44 PM
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My recommendations ...

Hello to all,

My recommendations to all testing My Diodes Set-Up:

1-Make the two terminals coming from motor after diodes to Old Battery Dis-Connectable, by means of individual male-female connectors...
2-While having another cable running to Old Battery Positive from Motor ready to be connected. This 'Option' will "restore" the system as you originally had it.
Now, after this is done, I will like to test with normal wire (original, no diodes) and the two terminals of my proposal open (after diodes)...and when motor is running try to short them out..watching for sparks-power there...while watching what the motor does...
You will be shorting out Radiant, not Hot electricity...
3- We should try (I will do it later on)..to put a load on those two terminals (not Old Battery) but maybe a CFL or a Neon. It should blink...pulsate, but not steadily light up.
Warning!: Do not try to read the output from this two cables end...it may burn your meter!...Unless is a very good protected one...and still do not guarantee it...
4- Do NOT use Motors that have small turns on each coil, they are "Speed Motors", some have the Model as "TRAXXAS 9T", meaning only 9 turns of a pretty heavy awg for their small size...And some R/C Helis even have a heat sink mounted...For sure you will burn them here, besides the very low resistance they will never build up enough induced electricity (Radiant or Hot) in their coils...
5- The "Ideal" Motor for this set-up should be elongated, and wound of enough turns in their coils, as they could stand -In Just ONE COIL- the Load of the currents handled here...
This system should be "Balanced Up"...Meaning not a very small motor with huge amps/hours batteries...or the other way around either...a very heavy motor with small batteries...Don't be "abusive"...

Regards

Ufopolitcs
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  #588  
Old 03-31-2012, 09:11 PM
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Radiant Energy Accumulator-Converter

Matt. Thank's for your input
@All
I think this similar to what is going on here
WorkingRadiantEnergy.pdf
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  #589  
Old 03-31-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hey Matt,

I am sorry to be in disagreement with you again!!
But, I particularly do not like the TO 200 Family type diodes...Maybe is because I had previous very bad experiences with them...
In prior Motor controllers I had used them right next to each MOSFET's...and they had gone bad...the worst part is that they go bad by short circuiting anode-cathode (meaning Drain-Source)...almost never open...and caused further damages...To my concept they are designed for "Lighter Duty" Jobs...

I believe they will never perform like a heavy body rectifier like NTE576.
Which is also the one specified at lower link...with different crossover number (UF5404)

Specification of ultra fast recovery diode and rectifier


Regards

Ufopolitics
that is the right the "forward diode " the one from motor to + of battery.
thanks for the picture , i have some computer power supplies i will look at them if i can find some diodes which can handle power...
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:51 PM
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ufo , i have apex dvd player and opened it up it has 2 big diodes ..

HER 303 BL .. will they do i check they are rated 3AMP .. before i take them out i need to check...
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Neight,
If I am reading this right, you had a voltage gain with BOTH the 3BGS and 2BGS using the two diodes across battery three and small motors. Correct? So so far, everyone who has TRIED it with small motors has been successful. Anybody else???

Dave
correct, I did see small gains, though all the runs I have done with the diodes in place have been less then 2 hours so far, hoping to get a couple of longer runs in this week, and see if I get higher gains.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:10 PM
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ok ran the test again with the hl303 diodes (they run hot but ok can take the little heat) , here is what happens .

1. when the 3rd battery had some charge , it did run and stopped.

2. i discharged the 3rd battery completely .

3. i ran with the diodes in place the , motor ran initially very speedy and then after 30 mins or so dropped rpm and then stopped.

now the 3rd battery is i charged again ...

---- now the question is how to test this system and what is next step ... pls guide...-----

i am looking for bad batteries , meanwhile thinking that i can add parallel uncharged batteries it can be my battery charging system array..

will post a simple video
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:30 PM
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MVI_1813.AVI - YouTube

here it is ...
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  #594  
Old 03-31-2012, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hey Matt,

I am sorry to be in disagreement with you again!!
But, I particularly do not like the TO 200 Family type diodes...Maybe is because I had previous very bad experiences with them...
In prior Motor controllers I had used them right next to each MOSFET's...and they had gone bad...the worst part is that they go bad by short circuiting anode-cathode (meaning Drain-Source)...almost never open...and caused further damages...To my concept they are designed for "Lighter Duty" Jobs...
I believe they will never perform like a heavy body rectifier like NTE576.
Which is also the one specified at lower link...with different crossover number (UF5404)
Specification of ultra fast recovery diode and rectifier
Regards
Ufopolitics
I understand, we have set the goal just out of reach... Unfortunately I have not had the same experience with them as you have. Since they can be cooled in more efficient fashion, short term high current pulses are dealt with in a far better matter. And just because you cannot calculate a surge and lost some diodes doesn't berate the diode itself as far as I concerned.

The simple fact remains David did this originally with just a motor and the battery configuration. And I showed that gains can be made through diode configuration, switching configurations, and resistor placement. So What. How components are place in the circuit may just give us a glimpse of the real prize which is how that dead battery, motor, or both was acting at that time.

Running around trying to live up to someones personal standards for components is just a bit too whoo-doo magic for me.

4 motors and 3 different dead batteries and your configuration has done nothing. Sorry to be in disagreement with you again!! But I think the course of experimentation you have chosen to test is just a little too inflexible for me. Based on what I feel is fact and what is not.

Matt
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  #595  
Old 04-01-2012, 12:18 AM
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Ufopolitics Ufopolitics is offline
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They should "do"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by hello_all View Post
ufo , i have apex dvd player and opened it up it has 2 big diodes ..

HER 303 BL .. will they do i check they are rated 3AMP .. before i take them out i need to check...
Hello,

Those are pretty good ones, equivalent to NTE588, They will be just fine.
Here are the spec's: Press the [pdf] file on right hand.

NTE Cross Reference

PDF:
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/500to599/pdf/nte588.pdf

Good testing!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics
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Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-01-2012 at 12:20 AM.
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  #596  
Old 04-01-2012, 02:54 AM
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Ufopolitics Ufopolitics is offline
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Matt...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I understand, we have set the goal just out of reach... Unfortunately I have not had the same experience with them as you have. Since they can be cooled in more efficient fashion, short term high current pulses are dealt with in a far better matter. And just because you cannot calculate a surge and lost some diodes doesn't berate the diode itself as far as I concerned.

The simple fact remains David did this originally with just a motor and the battery configuration. And I showed that gains can be made through diode configuration, switching configurations, and resistor placement. So What. How components are place in the circuit may just give us a glimpse of the real prize which is how that dead battery, motor, or both was acting at that time.

Running around trying to live up to someones personal standards for components is just a bit too whoo-doo magic for me.

4 motors and 3 different dead batteries and your configuration has done nothing. Sorry to be in disagreement with you again!! But I think the course of experimentation you have chosen to test is just a little too inflexible for me. Based on what I feel is fact and what is not.

Matt
Matt,

The fact that My Proposal did not work on your end, does not mean "The Method" -in general- will not work for others.
For example: It WORKED for member Hello_All.
There are Others also testing this set up, and have not come back to tell Us as of now.

What I really do not see as a "NICE APPROACH" is for You to be coming back here (TWO TIMES BY NOW) just to say "It Does Not Work" IN GENERAL. Like You would be "MR FINAL JUDGE " here, The Final Authority ??!!
By doing this You are disappointing others -That have not tried out- to run my set-up, and that ain't nice at ALL.

Quote:
.."Running around trying to live up to someones personal standards for components is just a bit too whoo-doo magic for me. .."
I WAS JUST EXPRESSING My Own personal Opinion on certain Components...People here are Pretty Grown Up and Knowledgeable in "This Fields" As They all could take their own decisions on what They do and don't...

I am not just "Throwing stones (Components here) to see if I hit the Target"...Bro!!

I ALREADY , WHILE BACK, HIT IT, I SURE DID, And I am POSITIVE about it!

I understand WHY I have set those Diodes in that FASHION, and yes they DO work, not the Perfect way -And I know also WHY NOT- But they DO.
As they show Us the REAL PATH of Currents that are charging the Battery where they are coming from...

Just "Follow My Diodes" and You will see the "CYCLE" is taking place.

Now, If YOU are NOT capable to see, to understand it...that does not mean the Rest here must also "comply and agree " with your frustration...
Above Your comment is a member who DID CHARGE HIS BATTERY THREE TIMES. BASED ON MY SET UP, NOT YOUR SHORTING OUT DIODES...and...it worked.

I try to tell you the "Possible" reasons why it did not work for you in previous posts...However, this will be my last post directed to You, Mathew Jones.

Take care

Ufopolitics
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  #597  
Old 04-01-2012, 03:00 AM
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Ufopolitics Ufopolitics is offline
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Hello and that was a great Test!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hello_all View Post
ok ran the test again with the hl303 diodes (they run hot but ok can take the little heat) , here is what happens .

1. when the 3rd battery had some charge , it did run and stopped.

2. i discharged the 3rd battery completely .

3. i ran with the diodes in place the , motor ran initially very speedy and then after 30 mins or so dropped rpm and then stopped.

now the 3rd battery is i charged again ...

---- now the question is how to test this system and what is next step ... pls guide...-----

i am looking for bad batteries , meanwhile thinking that i can add parallel uncharged batteries it can be my battery charging system array..

will post a simple video

Hello Hello_All,
That sounded great!!

I am very glad My Set Up has charged your battery three times by now...

I watched your video...If you could discharge it again, and set digital meters on the Old battery , Prior to start test (showing meter screen on Camera by Zooming at beginning an End) and leave it on, Till the End of Video..all continuously ...Please!!

Quote:
---- now the question is how to test this system and what is next step ... pls guide...-----
Next steps will be coming soon Hello_All, But let's wait to see the results of other Members doing same testing.
Please be patient.


Thanks

I appreciate your help!!


Regards

Ufopolitics
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  #598  
Old 04-01-2012, 03:56 AM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Matt,....
For example: It WORKED for member Hello_All.
There are Others also testing this set up, and have not come back to tell Us as of now......
Actually if you took the time to read what he said was only battery 3 charged. Thats not the stated goal. Instead you took the statement "Yes I am right". In all your perfection you have managed to lead this Hello All in the wrong direction, I wonder why you have done that?

Battery 3 must stay dead that is the goal. We do not want it to recover and hold a charge of significants.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
What I really do not see as a "NICE APPROACH" is for You to be coming back here (TWO TIMES BY NOW) just to say "It Does Not Work" IN GENERAL. Like You would be "MR FINAL JUDGE " here, The Final Authority ??!!
By doing this You are disappointing others -That have not tried out- to run my set-up, and that ain't nice at ALL.......
But it is not working and more than likely you would see this too if you actually had a setup running. If it did work for you, you yourself would have provided the exact details of your setup and possibly a film or 2. Instead of mentioning new details while people test your "Theories".

I think you are sadly mistaken when you over estimate your ability to think the situation through and expect results. Anybody can Imagine results, I have provided them to at least several people, Have you??? Hello all does not count he is mistaken in the expected result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
I try to tell you the "Possible" reasons why it did not work for you in previous posts...However, this will be my last post directed to You, Mathew Jones.
I read what you said and I gave an answer once now I'll spell it out again.... Your are just imagining your stuff to works. You have built yourself a little world in which you are some form Grand Researcher and you need only think of a solution.
But in the real world sir, tests are required. Real experience is a must not an inconvenient little thing.
Show your tests, show your results, or go away.

"By" NOT "doing this You are disappointing others". You come in and immediately change the course of direction. The people who are actually trying to make progress via research are trying to stay on a course that leads us to a 3rd battery that does what was witnessed by David. The modification laid out thus far were tests to see result, real results, and to lead us direction so that would create the stated "Bad Battery" with replicate results.

* Capacitance and resistance = How sulfated the batteries are and how much power can they store or pass
* Switching = Shorted plates or highly viscous fluid with intermittent switching behavior
* Diode tests = Which set of plates would accept or deny current

We have to stay within the possibilities of the "Dead Battery"

Now again I write if you had came here with results looking for verification then I would have had a different approach. But you strike me as alot of others have as person who lives in his fantasy world in which all is possible because you think it is.

Do the work then give the advice, and you are not capable of that or refuse to do it then your not credible researcher or you are purposely here to mislead.

And if I have bruised you tiny ego you feel free to run away. But if you truly have real test data to offer with results that can be replicated or at least subtly experienced then feel free to share them. But if not, SIR, Go away.

Matthew Jones
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  #599  
Old 04-01-2012, 04:08 AM
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fathershand fathershand is offline
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Semi-Successful Test Run

Today I did 2 tests using the UFO diodes. The 1st test was using 4 12V car batteries in series and parallel giving 24V. My motor was a car radiator fan motor. The diodes that I had were from a car alternator. I had 2 bad batteries in parallel. THe first bad battery is ideal for this circuit as it never charges higher. The 2nd bad battery is charging up, but at rest it drops to 10V. My results were that the primary batteries were dropping in voltage. No joy here.

My second test was with a more suitable motor. Here are the specs:

GE Permanent Magnet Motor replaceable brushes. It is long cylindrical shaped.
Voltage 95V DC.
Model 5BPA34TAA24 HP is 1/4 RPM 1725 Time Rating - Cont. Ambient 40 degrees C.
INSE Class BP Made in USA Coil Resistance is 5.7 ohms.

UFO, do you think that this is a good motor for this circuit?

(Thanks for posting those video links to demo a good motor for us). Before the test, I hooked it to a belt and drove it by another 230V A/C motor to see what voltage it generates. It was somewhere in the 40V range. The A/C motor is rated at 1750RPM.

I only had 5 12V batteries for a total of 60V to drive this motor.
The voltage on the primaries dropped slowly during the test. Early in the one hour run, the voltage seemed to hover for some time, maybe 15 minutes or more. After the test I let the batteries rest for an hour and they had fallen in voltage from .14V to .3V per battery. I feel good about this.

UFO, do you think that running this motor under voltage at 60V with the car alternator diodes is why I have falling primary voltage? I also noticed that the motor seemed to be getting hot.

Thanks for everybody's help.

Tony
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  #600  
Old 04-01-2012, 04:59 AM
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kcarring kcarring is offline
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2 cents

I tried the setup. After an entire night, found a bat that replicated the effect. 3.5 hrs total run try #1. Managed to see the increase and voltage divebombs. Dave's circuit - no switching to KISS principle first. Seems to work good for while. Then Quit. Tried again today for several hours. Best run 1.5 hrs. Came to the foggy conclusion my setup might be working due to drendrite intermittent shorting, but the cell is being "repaired" and that possibly may be a reason for it working less often now. Though this is probably a stupid thing to say; it almost seems to my imagination its like a spark gap effect inside battery 3. Wonder if a person could impose a set resistance and or mechanical shorting on a known good instead of random bad #3 and see the same, but more reliable effect. if i come up with anything new i'll post again. thanks. ciao
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