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  #31  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:37 PM
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Thanks nvisser

Thanks nvisser for the extra information. That is what I was beginning to think about what is going on here (well maybe not in the same way) the motor is an important component to what is happening here. Not just battery 3.

I just finished an over an hour run with the same battery 3. It still works, turns out I had a loose connection on battery 2. I burnt out a taillight bulb when I put to much load on the motor. This time I ran a 75 watt inverter with a light bulb. Also tried exact same motor as load and it worked. I could have run things longer but quit because I was too tired.

Just had another thought, The circuit and the software on the South African
device could be similar to Matthew Jones process, or if not maybe the software could be tweaked to work. Even though I do not Know that much about Matt's system, I know you have to program it.

George
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  #32  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
They use 24V batteries on both sides. No tesla switch configiration.
The system was comprised of a series-wound, brushed, DC motor (slightly modified) powered by one bank of two 12-Volt batteries (102 Ah) wired in series for a 24-Volt output. The company says the back-EMF is harvested into a second, identical battery bank, which is also wired in series. These two banks are periodically cycled, trading places in the circuit, and the net charge stays essentially the same, across both banks. The optimized cycling of power and storing of the back-EMF are all controlled by a proprietary circuit board and software developed by the inventor. The motor shaft is connected directly to the shaft of the AC generator, which spins at 3,000 rpm to produce 5 kW of power at 50 Hz, 220-V.
" No tesla switch configuation, (DC motor slightly modified) " Sounds like it could be more like a Lockridge device, but with the electronic/software system as opposed to mechanical.

George
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  #33  
Old 02-24-2012, 07:26 AM
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Dave

Dave, after 12 hours of rest, battery 1 is back to full charge, battery 2 has a slight loss. I only used a 2.5 watt led bulb from Wal Mart. I had also tried to use a Wal Mart 20 watt inverter, but it did not want to stay working as the 75 watt did. I also tried a 40 watt incandescent bulb, it would stay on continuously only if a very heavy load was applied to the motor. Battery 1 is a new one, battery 2 is an old one, I do have two other new garden batteries that could be used for battery 2.


George
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Last edited by FRC; 02-24-2012 at 07:29 AM.
  #34  
Old 02-24-2012, 09:19 AM
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Can ask a couple of questions

Can you post a schematic?

Are you testing the primary batteries for loss of charge, if so how?

How do you think it is working?

Just trying to get my head round it
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  #35  
Old 02-24-2012, 06:28 PM
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The underlined part stumps me.

Maybe somebody can explain why not use another motor on the "other side" and eliminate switching the batteries. Seems to me that will increase the output too.
Admittedly I am over my head and there is probably a logical reason why you can't use two motors with two battery banks and just stick with the one motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
They use 24V batteries on both sides. No tesla switch configiration.
The system was comprised of a series-wound, brushed, DC motor (slightly modified) powered by one bank of two 12-Volt batteries (102 Ah) wired in series for a 24-Volt output. The company says the back-EMF is harvested into a second, identical battery bank, which is also wired in series. These two banks are periodically cycled, trading places in the circuit, and the net charge stays essentially the same, across both banks. The optimized cycling of power and storing of the back-EMF are all controlled by a proprietary circuit board and software developed by the inventor. The motor shaft is connected directly to the shaft of the AC generator, which spins at 3,000 rpm to produce 5 kW of power at 50 Hz, 220-V.
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  #36  
Old 02-24-2012, 07:37 PM
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clueless

I can not comment on that device, but I was thinking of trying two motors
connected where only one is now with the three battery setup, to see what
will happen.

@ Dave, I think I remember seeing a comment at OU that this system is what
Magnicoaster had there. You can google Magnicoaster and see that he is
trying to sell his devices. But from what I can tell he never perfected it
either. He can give a short demonstration, and it looks like it works. But
it does not look like it will work continuously. Any thoughts ?


George
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  #37  
Old 02-25-2012, 05:31 AM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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In this setup, I can see how it will desulphate in the period that the motor wont run by the fact it is working as a tank circuit. This makes sense.

During the running period it makes sense that the current is flowing through the motor causing the motor to have torque with the only loss being the ohmic loss in the motor as the current that has passed through is collected in the second battery. This is in its self proof that running a motor does not consume power other than that consumed in ohmic resistance. I have said this before on many threads and as yet no one has challenged it.

Adding loads to the third battery just reduces the impedance seen by the primaries and motor allowing the motor to run faster. These loads will consume power based on their ohmic resistance. All this makes sense and it is an efficient way to run a motor. The spikes generated by the running motor will also desulphate the third battery but as I see it we are still consuming the same power out of the two supply batteries and they should be getting depleted.

Yes, lead acid batteries have the ability to recover somewhat from short heavy load drains but only as much power can be drawn as is seen when the battery is drained at C20. While they might appear fully charged they should in fact not be. If the batteries are in fact keeping their charge, I am baffled

Does anyone agree, disagree or have another explanation?

I like what you are doing as it proves that a motor does not consume power to make it run. If there is no loss or even a reduced loss from the primaries this needs to be documented as something else must be going on.

Of course the power produced by the motor can be used to power a generator that can feed power back into the circuit and when you do this you will most probably find that there is more energy in the combined output of the generator and that going into the charged battery than what is being drained from the source. It should be possible to charge three batteries in parallel this way while depleting two.

If the motor used was of my design it may be possible to charge many more as we will be having an additional pulse effect charging the batteries plus overall higher efficiency.

I fully believe you have an overunity circuit when a generator is fitted but the source batteries must go down.

To see the overunity you need a high efficiency motor and a high efficiency generator, that is both need to be in excess of 70% efficiency. As the efficiency of the motor and generators go up the overunity will go up.

To make it self running, I would feed the output of the generator to the output battery and use an inverter to feed this back to the source. Once the system is running all the batteries could be replaced with capacitors.

Note the similarity with one of my Lockridge circuits but this would require a special motor. Circuit Simulator Applet
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  #38  
Old 02-25-2012, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
mbrownn,

We have a couple different ideas for motors to use with this. The first is the modified DC motor of Dr. Lindemann's design. That is a rewound motor with two sets of brushes. One set provides the current to run the motor and the second collects the collapse of the coil and sends it back out.

The second would be a motor with something to collect the CEMF rather than send it into the windings to die.

But if you have a motor you want to try have at it. If there is a modification you want us to try, let me know what it is, and we'll try to make that happen.

Now, as to the current setup. What if, because of the fact that the motor is run between two positives, and because of the pulsing that I KNOW is affecting somehow the magnetic field of battery three, something is happening to either the supplied current, or the current that comes from the collapse of the coil? Just an idea.
Question...

Has this been tried on a "Brushless Motor" yet?

Regards
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  #39  
Old 02-25-2012, 07:16 AM
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erfinder

Neight tried brushless PC fans.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Neight View Post
I am glad you posted this! I completely forgot I have a few 12DC PC fans. They are brushless, but it gave me something to try tonight.
The bad battery that I am using wouldn't take any thing more than 3.5V on my SSG, and as soon as I connected any load at all to it, even a joule thief, it would drop down to 1.5V or less, and die in a hurry.
when it is on the SSG charging, it would read 11-12V charge.

I hooked everything up as per Turion's first post (fan connected to pos of battery 1 and 3, neg of 1 connected to pos of 2, and neg of 2 connected to neg of 3) and the fan started right away, which I understand may not be a good thing, but oddly enough the bad battery (bat 3) is reading 17V and climbing at the moment when it is under load. when I remove the fan, I now get 4V and dropping, instead of the 3.5V I had seen on it previously as a high mark. Not sure what to make of it yet, but I am looking to connect a load to bat 3 and see what happens next
The fan is running, though no where near full power yet, and it has some LED's in it, which will flash off every few minutes. the fan doesn't seem to change speed when it happens, though it is hard to tell. Not sure what that means either. I will leave the test running for a while, monitor all three bat voltages, and post what happens.
Thanks for making that post FRC, you got me started at least!

N8

I have connected a light bulb I pulled out of a drill press that stopped working to bat 3, to see what happens. With the bulb connected, The voltage on bat 3 drops to 14.5V and sort of stabilizes, though it does still show it climbing slowly. Batteries 1 and 2 don't seem to notice the extra load at all, and in fact, bat 1 gained a few mV after the bulb was connected. I do not get much light at all out of the bulb mind you, but it does glow ever so slightly...
Again, not sure if any of this even means anything, but I am trying to document it, in case it is helpful in any way
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  #40  
Old 02-25-2012, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
mbrownn,

If there is a modification you want us to try, let me know what it is, and we'll try to make that happen.
A universal motor with a wave wound armature fitted with extra brushes. I don't know where to get such an armature from so its a winding contest again. Peters windings in the lockridge thread are basically wave wound.
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  #41  
Old 02-25-2012, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRC View Post
Neight tried brushless PC fans.

Anyone tried this "cap discharge test" from the site below? I think it might be related to what you all are doing...

Capacitive Discharge Motor and other free energy files - J Snell

I tried test in the attached image.
Regards
Attached Images
File Type: gif cap discharge test.gif (4.1 KB, 202 views)
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Last edited by erfinder; 02-25-2012 at 07:49 AM.
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  #42  
Old 02-25-2012, 07:55 AM
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I have a motor I rewound according to Peter's directions, ( the X pattern) but I did not put in a second set of brushes. With proper switching you can pulse the motor and collect the CEMF and collapse of the coil on the same wires you used to supply power. This is one of the motors I have been considering using with this setup. Just haven't had the time yet. Plus I just remembered I have another DC motor with two sets of brushes, wound the same way because originally I thought you needed two sets of brushes to run that setup. Will have to give that a try.

Dave
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  #43  
Old 02-25-2012, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrownn View Post

Yes, lead acid batteries have the ability to recover somewhat from short heavy load drains but only as much power can be drawn as is seen when the battery is drained at C20. While they might appear fully charged they should in fact not be. If the batteries are in fact keeping their charge, I am baffled

Does anyone agree, disagree or have another explanation?
http://panacea-bocaf.org/files/TopTen.pdf

Check out the section on the Bedini\ColeTesla Switch.
The idea has been put forth many times on this forum, that the way a battery charges is always from the active vacuum. No matter if the energy is hot or cold.
But the radiant\cold energy seems to have special effect on Lead Acid battery's.
Allowing them to absorb radiant charge much easier as they are conditioned to it.
There are many mysteries concerning the LAB.
Mr. Bedini said once that LAB have at least 7 different function within a circuit.
Impedence both high and low inductance, resistance, and capacitance and could be made to take advantage of all of those qualities.
And that batteries could also work using combinations of those qualities to enhance their own charging if the circuit was properly setup.
Mysteries are us! Here on this forum.
Great listening to you guys think.
Carry on.
Stephen
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  #44  
Old 02-25-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I have a motor I rewound according to Peter's directions, ( the X pattern) but I did not put in a second set of brushes. With proper switching you can pulse the motor and collect the CEMF and collapse of the coil on the same wires you used to supply power. This is one of the motors I have been considering using with this setup. Just haven't had the time yet. Plus I just remembered I have another DC motor with two sets of brushes, wound the same way because originally I thought you needed two sets of brushes to run that setup. Will have to give that a try.

Dave
By x patern do you mean the wave pastern shown here electrics_158.gif (image) This pattern has very powerful interactions with the adjacent coil. If it is 4 pole it looks to be ideal for a lockridge setup, as I see it, provided that the minimum number of coils is three but the more coils the better. This would be a zigzag pattern if there were no loops.

If its two coils just set at 90 degrees that is what I call non interconnecting star wound. This has interesting properties too.

I said "you will most probably find that there is more energy in the combined output of the generator and that going into the charged battery than what is being drained from the source. It should be possible to charge three batteries in parallel this way while depleting two." this is only possible if we are collecting the inductive kickback from a pulse motor of above 70% efficiency and either feeding it to the source or to the charging battery. Sorry for not making this clear, My head gets ahead of my typing
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Brown View Post
[url]
There are many mysteries concerning the LAB.

Stephen
This is very true and a Bedini SSG proves it
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  #46  
Old 02-25-2012, 02:30 PM
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I tried two identical motors this time. They seemed to work in sync, if I put
load on one the other slowed down to the exact same RPM's. Blew another tail light bulb. This time I tried a 220v stove element as load, it did warm up a bit but very slowly, then a 110v immersion heater from a hot water tank, it warmed a bit also. Then a 1500 watt inverter first with the immersion heater, but kept cutting out so then tried the 40 watt bulb again. Was the same story as the 75 watt inverter - had to have heavy load to run continuously.

The reason I tried the stove element was that I tried it in place of battery 3
to begin with, thinking that battery 3 is a resistive load but still is allowing current to pass through it. But it just took up the 24v in series and drained the batteries a bit.

Another interesting note was that I thought that I had completely drained
battery 3 from the last run, but when I checked it, it was back up over 12 volts again. So I drained it again before trying it this time.

George
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  #47  
Old 02-25-2012, 06:19 PM
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Another run

I did another run after only allowing batteries 1 and 2 to rest for about three hours. This time with a larger battery 3 (same battery I had tried before but turns out there was a connection problem that time). Much better results this time. 40 watt light would run longer before cutting out, and run continuously with just a small load on motor. Next I tried hooking up a small 2 amp charger off the inverter and it worked well charging a fourth battery. Next the second motor again and the RPM's increased. All ran nicely with this arrangement. I
shut it down after about 45 minutes. I hope I will not ruin the good batteries
going over half an hour and not letting them rest longer.


George
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  #48  
Old 02-25-2012, 09:29 PM
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This could help here

From the Donald Smith thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenssurplus View Post
Several years ago on the EVGRAY forum there was a person who developed a Tesla Switch using capacitors instead of batteries which operated very well using the principle of capacitative induction, where as long as you could supply a steady potential to one side of the top capacitor, then there would be a usable potential induced in the capacitor dielectric and switched between bottom capacitors. I don't recall all the details very well, but I remember that hardly any input power was required.

Anyone here remember this from EVGRAY?
This three battery generating system (even in its present form) could work as a viable home power generating system. This would require enough batteries so that you would have multiple three battery setups. Adequate motors to charge generators to charge even more batteries. An automated battery swapper. The weakest part of it would be maintenance and replacement of the number 3 "bad batteries" One would cycle through a
number of 3 battery setups through a 24 hour period. Combined with solar it could be used during non light hours. In its present form it would still be very expensive to do. Improvements are needed to bring the total cost and size down for this to work. Lets hope we find them.

George
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  #49  
Old 02-26-2012, 12:46 AM
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A friend of mine ran his 12 volt brushed DC motor splitting the NEGATIVES rather than the positives for 10 hours on a battery that was so bad (in the third position) that it held only milivolts (It came from the junk pile). He had no load on the system, but was just running the motor because he had no way to put a load on the motor and so could not balance it with a load on battery three. After resting overnight batteries one and two actually increased in charge. Not by much, but how many people have run a motor for ten hours and had the batteries increase in charge?

That's the good news. The BAD news is that he had two other setups, both using bad batteries in the third position that were at low voltage, and neither of them had successful runs.

I HOPE the message here is that you HAVE to have the right battery in the third position. I can't stress that enough. And just because it is low in charge does not mean it is the right battery. Keep searching. You will get there.

I do want to let you all know that I have disclosed EVERYTHING I know up to the point where I started this thread. YOU have all the information I had when I began this. I also need to say that I am part of a private group that is working on some projects, and what we learn or share within that group I have promised not to disclose. So take what was given here and expand on it. Don't give up. There is much more to be discovered here and to think that this is not worth your time would be a huge mistake. Things that I find out on my own I am posting here as long as they do not result from something shared by someone in that group. I try to keep my promises.

mbrownn
Will take a picture of the winds on that rotor. I don't think they are what you are looking for. They are two coils at 90 degrees to each other. I guess I am not familiar with the wave wind and your picture didn't make it any clearer to me. Sorry. Sometimes I am really dense!

erfinder,
I have seen that cap discharge test before. The idea being when you use that circuit to dump the voltage from one cap into two caps they both end up with the same voltage as in the original cap. I have never tried it, so don't know if it works. Sure would be nice if it did wouldn't it? A never ending supply of energy from one charged cap, as long as you have more and more caps to connect!

Take care all.
Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 02-26-2012 at 01:08 AM.
  #50  
Old 02-26-2012, 03:54 AM
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Quick test with non rechargeable dead battery

Hi all, I tried a quick version of the 3 battery setup. I had tried splitting the positive previously with a non brushed fan motor with no results around a year ago(did not wait 15 minutes though). I have 2 sla batteries which have a total of 25 volts as the source. I ran for about 30 seconds with a dead 9 volt alkaline battery in parallel and a small brushed motor from a cigarette machine. the 9 volt is nearly completely charged in this time frame.

I am still searching for viable dead batteries, although i have a bunch, but they appear to mostly have bad cells or are all dried out.
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  #51  
Old 02-26-2012, 08:19 AM
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If you HAVE a bad battery in the third position that won't take a charge, hook a battery to it in parallel that you need to charge and watch how fast that happens. This thing charges batteries very quickly. The motor has serious torque. It can do lots of work, and you can get the primaries to fully recover. As is, it is a fun little setup, but it has tremendous potential.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:37 AM
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Had to wade through a couple days of work, but I am running a 2nd test right now. Using only the LED's and PC fan for a load. It's been running now for a little over 3 hours, and I think the bad battery has nearly stabilized. When I first connected power tonight, the LED's came on immediately, but the fan didn't come on for about 30 seconds.
I am charting and graphing my data as I go, and will do so over several tests, to track the progress of battery 3 and the recovery of batteries 1 and 2.
I do have one more bad battery, a 12V 33Ah battery. I haven't been able to get it to charge, and I am thinking of trying it in bat3 position. Not sure if it will work, since batteries one and two are only 7.5Ah each, and much smaller than the 33Ah. If it does work, that will be incredible. I might also try hooking it in parallel to battery 3 in my next test cycle, to see if it charges, and how it effects the test.

I have noticed that the LED's will blink off occasionally, and the fan will momentarily slow down at the same time. I haven't been able to find a regular pattern to how often these disturbances are happening, but it is fairly often.

I will keep testing and tracking the data, and report anything I find. When I get my next check, I am thinking of picking up a 12VDC motor to try this with, so I can increase the load on the system without having to add addition components, just put some tension on the motor drive.

Great info coming in so far, and thanks to everyone for sharing your data!
this is a pretty fun little experiment to have going, and still be able to work on other things at the same time

N8
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:53 AM
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I want to try a second 3 battery setup and have alternate runs between the two. The last run I did was the best so far. To me it seems that the bad battery
that works best is one that will still take a charge but can not retain it for very
long. I am also going to try a third motor and maybe even four, also try a different sized motor a long with the one I have been using. Maybe even a PC
fan as one of them.

@ Turion, another possibility is running a second motor at the split negatives
at the the same time as the split positives is going. Or is this just a stupid
idea? Will try it to see what happens anyway.


George
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  #54  
Old 02-26-2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
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I want to try a second 3 battery setup and have alternate runs between the two. The last run I did was the best so far. To me it seems that the bad battery
that works best is one that will still take a charge but can not retain it for very
long. I am also going to try a third motor and maybe even four, also try a different sized motor a long with the one I have been using. Maybe even a PC
fan as one of them.

@ Turion, another possibility is running a second motor at the split negatives
at the the same time as the split positives is going. Or is this just a stupid
idea? Will try it to see what happens anyway.


George
I definitely noticed this second run has been much longer than the first before the bad battery stabilized.
It is nice to see several people all getting very similar results from different tests, shows we have a lot of wiggle room, and are on the right track!

I think the idea of splitting both positive and negative at the same time is a great idea to try. Why not open both radiant highway lanes at the same time (maybe a bad analogy, but you see what I am getting at, I hope)
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:07 PM
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If you saw my post above, my friend had great results splitting the NEGATIVE, so you can split either, and possibly BOTH at the same time. It MIGHT just mess up how this thing works though, so I would advise getting a working system by splitting either the positive OR the negative, and then making changes. Otherwise you really don't KNOW what you have. I haven't tried splitting both, but that's why we're here; to try things and see what works. The more people that DO try this and get positive results, the better for ALL of us because it will encourage more people to give it a shot. It is so simple and inexpensive to build if you have the batteries and a brushed DC motor.

I appreciate all the efforts by all of you. When I brought this to Overunity.com four or so years ago, NOBODY got any good results. They didn't use lead acid batteries and were in such a rush to see what I had seen that the wanted the whole pie right now and wouldn't do short little test runs to see what was happening. SO no one believed me. I think they all thought I was a fraud.
This go round, many of YOU are seeing success, and all of my friends I have shared this with on the forum, who aren't even posting here, are seeing it too. So keep looking and lets figure this out.

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 02-26-2012 at 04:25 PM.
  #56  
Old 02-26-2012, 06:35 PM
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Second test run

Hello everyone. I have started retesting the 3 battery setup today. I had a few bad batteries and at first could not get the unit running. After I added new water to one of the batteries and waiting 20 minutes I manually turned the rotor and it is slowly spinning, occasionally now speeding up then almost stopping.
If using SLA batteries remember most of the time they go bad because they dry out easily. The battery I am using I added some sea salt to, to see if i could replate the cells and improve the conductivity.

I will post later today when i get time.

-sidenote, even though i could not get the unit running with some bad batteries, I noticed that the voltage on the bad battery sometimes would temporarily get up in voltage
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:57 PM
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tester16

The first bad battery I had success with is a small sla, and it still works as far as I know. I had taken it apart a while ago and added water to it, but I guess it was too far gone to save it. But for this it works good.

George
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  #58  
Old 02-26-2012, 09:37 PM
Joit Joit is offline
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I tried before 1 26Ah 12V and 2x 4,5Ah SLA's.
The 26Ah has about 10,80V and seems has a sulfated or damaged Cell also.
The others smaller one sitting at about 10,70V and 11,70V. I had the same effect with a CD-Rom Drive Motor also.
I used for #1 26Ah, #2 4,5Ah at 11,70V and #3 the 4,5Ah at 10,70V. #3 did go up to 23V, and still did go down, and after few minutes the Motor did start running.
I did take it apart, because i would record it, but after that #3 did not go down again to less then 18V. It never works when someone's watching. At last i did see the Effect. I may blame it on #2 too, because it was weak in charge and i think it did not have enough Current in it anymore to push through both Batteries.


Edit.
In doubt, when someone dont have a DC Motor by the Hand, take your cordless Drill, take the Accu out and connect 2 Wires to the Connectors inside.
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Last edited by Joit; 02-26-2012 at 09:49 PM.
  #59  
Old 02-27-2012, 01:30 AM
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ewizard ewizard is offline
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Just some ideas on this as I had tried this about a year ago. It was a few quick and dirty tests. At times it seemed to be working using 3 SLA's through a 12 volt auto wiper motor. But all 3 batteries were marginal pulls I had on hand. Two were better than the third. I was getting quite a lot of run time on the motor and some charging on the third battery. However at one point I decided to add a Bedini style SSG into the mix between 2 of the batteries. This did help out a lot and I felt it was close to being a self sustaining circuit. But at that time I was running it with a low power transistor not made for big 12 volt batteries. I've since changed it out to a higher power transistor for another project but as yet have not had the time to go back to trying it in this 3 battery circuit. I think sometimes if we can combine two 'almost' OU circuits or two different concepts that both have merit we might push things into the 'success' zone I don't want to confuse things Turion is doing here but it's just an idea if you happen to already have a Bedini SSG laying around.
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  #60  
Old 02-27-2012, 02:16 AM
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Turion Turion is online now
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I don't want to discourage people from trying ANYTHING, but I would advise you to get a system put together that works FIRST, and then see what you can do to improve it. If it doesn't work in the first place, you aren't making it any "better" by adding something else to it, you're making something new. Not that making something new is wrong. But what I have found is that people try a couple different batteries on this setup and it doesn't work, so they immediately start changing things. And then they get discouraged because it didn't work and they quit. Try 50 different batteries in the third position like I have done over the years, always trying to find one that works a little better, and THEN change something or add something.

If you had seen the power produced by my original setup, you wouldn't be trying to build ANYTHING else. Believe me.
Three lead acid batteries
The one in the third position won't hold or take a charge and is as dead as you can get it.
One permanent magnet DC 12 volt motor.
The batteries connected by battery cables, not small wires.
Here are my original lab notes if you want to read them.
David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device
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