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  #511  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:10 AM
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I can't go down to the basement until tomorrow to check on whether or not that battery is shorted out because the dogs will go nuts and wake up everyone, but look at it like this. Two batteries wired in series. Connect the free terminal of one battery to one side of a headlight bulb. Connect the other side of the headlight bulb to one leg of the motor. Connect the other leg of the motor to the free terminal of the other battery. You have made a loop, and the light will light up and the motor will run. Now connect the bad battery in parallel with the light and suddenly the light goes out and the motor won't run. Why? Look at it from THAT perspective, because that is what is happening. Add a second light in parallel with the first and still nothing will run. But when you add a THIRD light in parallel with the first and second, it comes on, and the motor runs.

It's as if I'm matching POTENTIALS. Each light is a potential, and when I get enough of them, suddenly the circuit is complete and everything works. Just throwing things out there guys.

This is definitely a GOOD battery for these experiments, because it took between 10 and 15 minutes of the setup just sitting there before the motor magically came on with no load connected. SInce I KNOW from experience that my motor will start IMMEDIATELY tomorrow, I will go ahead and play with two transistors in parallel. Matt, the one 47 ohm resistor I had in the circuit today got hotter than heck, even though nothing ever worked. Now I know it didn't work because of the weird battery behavior and not because my circuit was wired incorrectly, but I am concerned about how hot that resistor was. Too hot to touch. Should I have used two of them?

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 03-29-2012 at 05:15 AM.
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  #512  
Old 03-29-2012, 06:16 AM
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It sounds like high strangeness at first but I can sort of see it. Battery 3 is put in the opposite polarity of 1 and 2 so it could (if it has any potential) be sucking enough power from 1 and 2 that the light doesn't get enough to run and with an opposing potential the motor doesn't get enough to run. Do you have a reading for voltage on 3 once it is hooked up? Now once you lower the resistance enough by adding more lights across #3 then you may short 3 to the point that it does not oppose the flow of 1 and 2 through the lights so they light back up and the motor starts back up because #3 is essentially bypassed by the lower resistance of 3 parallel lights. Not sure if I have that right but I think that sounds like a possible explanation for the current situation.
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  #513  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:13 AM
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Hey guys

Just a quick update. I gave the circuit from Matt a try and noticed a very clear improvement in performance.
I used what I have on hand, so it wasn't a 100% true replication, but the results were very encouraging.
I am using much smaller batteries and motors than what most are using, so maybe that is why I was able to get away with smaller components.
I am using 1Ω 10W resistor, and a 2n3055 transistor. I have the same 100Ω 1/2W resistor as in the schematic. 12V 7Ah input batteries, and 12V 5Ah bat3, which has at least one bad cell, and possibly two, so it really shouldn't ever hold a charge.
the motors I used are the same printer motors I have been using. I have a belt driven motor being used as a generator from the motor I am using between good and bad batteries.
I did hook up the genny motor to a rectifier and routed that back to both battery one and battery two individually. I didn't get any significant charging, though it did slow down the voltage drop while running a bit. I also used a 12V PC cooling fan as a load on the generator, and I am sure it was running at full speed, and the LEDs on the fan were very bright. unloaded, I measure 20V coming from the small generator, though I don't have a decent enough amp meter to trust the results I get from current output.
I ran this with and without the circuit in place, and there is absolutely no question the help this adds to this system. I did see my batteries input voltage drop over a two hour run, but the recovery has been much much faster than without the circuit in. On a two hour run, I have full recovery in both batteries, and it's maybe been an hour since I shut it off.
trying to balance a load on the bad battery is a bit more difficult with the circuit in place, and I wasn't sure if I was in the zone or not, as this system seems to run more stable with the circuit in, I get hardly any motor speed variation over the duration of the run. Using a load on battery 3 with the circuit in seems to give mixed results, though doesn't seem to do any harm.

all in all, great test, and I look forward to hearing more results come in as others get this built!

N8
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  #514  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:22 AM
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Hi Turion and all,

This is a great thread guys, I've built a few Tesla switches some time ago so now I've made some small attempts with the 3 batt setup, but I'm in between other projects I'm working on so I don't have anything special to report about it yet, but following the thread with interest.

That thing with your third battery is weird...! And when you remove it and leave the lamp only the motor starts?

About Matt's setup, as far as I can tell from the schematic the purpose of the MJL is to connect the hi wattage resistor in parallel with batt 3 only when the motor is turned ON, or am I missing something?

regards,
Mario
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  #515  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:50 AM
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having trouble making an edit to my last post, so I am making a new one.

I am running this same setup with a bad 6V power wheels battery, and one 12V good battery (2BGS) same resistors and transistor as before, and so far, I am seeing nearly 0 drop in input voltage, and it's been running for about 15-20 minutes now.
I am using a bit smaller motor than in the previous test, and no generator hooked to it, or load of any kind (it's too small, I don't have any way to couple a load to it, with what I have on hand.)
So this does work with the 2BGS as well.

I also wanted to add to my last post that the big resistor is ceramic, not wire wound.
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  #516  
Old 03-29-2012, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario View Post
Hi Turion and all,

This is a great thread guys, I've built a few Tesla switches some time ago so now I've made some small attempts with the 3 batt setup, but I'm in between other projects I'm working on so I don't have anything special to report about it yet, but following the thread with interest.

That thing with your third battery is weird...! And when you remove it and leave the lamp only the motor starts?

About Matt's setup, as far as I can tell from the schematic the purpose of the MJL is to connect the hi wattage resistor in parallel with batt 3 only when the motor is turned ON, or am I missing something?

regards,
Mario
I get small 1-2 volt variation ripple coming out of the motor, that drives the transistor on and off. The transistor will only turn on for top portion of the sine wave. So the resistor is only availible during the highest point of torque on the motor and the lower portions in which the BEMF shows up the motor is force to either dump it directly into the dead battery or back to the source as serial connected power source. Then of course when it comes back on you get surge cause you have no BEMF in the coils.

Matt
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  #517  
Old 03-29-2012, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neight View Post
having trouble making an edit to my last post, so I am making a new one.
Click the 'Go advanced' Button at the Tab below, and then save it, and it will work.
You can delete then your second one at with the same Button at the upper Menu
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  #518  
Old 03-29-2012, 10:30 AM
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Dave

I just woke up. Could not leave until I could get caught up on some sleep. Hardly had any the last couple nights.

Yeah that battery 3 is sure showing strange behavior. Ewizard seems to have a
plausible explanation for whats happening. Hope you can get it sorted out Dave.

Glad to here neight was able to get results with the circuit. I was wondering
if it could be done on a smaller basis like that.

Thanks Matt for clarifying what is happening with the circuits operation.

Well this will be my last post for a while. Good luck to everyone working on this. "Gone Baby Gone" as Matt says.

George
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  #519  
Old 03-29-2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I get small 1-2 volt variation ripple coming out of the motor, that drives the transistor on and off. The transistor will only turn on for top portion of the sine wave. So the resistor is only availible during the highest point of torque on the motor and the lower portions in which the BEMF shows up the motor is force to either dump it directly into the dead battery or back to the source as serial connected power source. Then of course when it comes back on you get surge cause you have no BEMF in the coils.

Matt
Hi Matt,

thanks, if I got this correctly, when the motor coils charge up the resistor is connected thanks to the tranny, when the coils discharge it's disconnected and the spike goes through all the series connected good and bad batteries.

regards,
Mario
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  #520  
Old 03-29-2012, 11:44 AM
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It may look unrelated but I have two thoughts I would like somebody explain to me.
When we have two batteries in parallel and one have larger voltage then the other one is charged by this one, is that correct ? What is going on when we have two batteries of different capacitor and voltage connected in series and then load attached to them to close the loop ?
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  #521  
Old 03-29-2012, 02:00 PM
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If some one get's this working w/ that transistor and wire wound resistor in place. I would be curious to see what happens if you rectify that resistor/inductor? to a battery or cap... will the effect go away or will we have yet another source to draw energy from...

actually, Matt do you have an inductance meter? if so is there any inductance coming from that wire wound resistor, or is it one of those that is double wound back on itself to remove the inductance? Then... is there any capacitance value there etc...?

we should be able to replace that with a coil, or a bifilar coil, twist the bottom ends together and use the top leads, one to the battery and one to the emitter. otherwise, this is looking more and more like the SS SSG being triggered by the motor w/ no place for the spike to be rectified except maybe partially through the transistor itself.

Patrick
Long time no post. But I have been following this thread. Patrick, I have been thinking the same thing. Being an SSG guy, swap out that wirewound resistor with a coil. You could also use the core material as a sort of potentiometer, by sliding it in and out for adjustment, to help balance the load. If nothing else, you could use Bedini's old Tesla Tech technique and rectify the output of the coil and tap into another source of what should be free power in the system.

Hoping to start tinkering again soon!!!
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  #522  
Old 03-29-2012, 02:41 PM
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Relay

Matt, Dave, Guys, maybe if you connected the transistor to a relay that switches on/off the motor we wouldn't burn out the transistor.

Just a thought.

Great efforts, guys. Keep up the good work.

Tony
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  #523  
Old 03-29-2012, 03:14 PM
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Mosfet circuit

Hi guys,

I have been working on the mosfet circuit to control the motor and load across battery 3. I have not quite got it done and have run out of time. I have to leave in a little while to go out of town for a couple of days. I will get back on this when I return. I am using the mosfet driver circuit that Vissie posted to Matt and I for Matt's simple TS. I had thought it was posted on the TS thread but I did not find it. I am modifying it to work on the 3BGS. Visssie has given the okay to repost it here when I have something that works.

C ya later,

Carroll
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  #524  
Old 03-29-2012, 03:41 PM
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Carroll,
Thanks for doing that. I saw Vissie's post on Matt's private TS thread and I may play around with it while you're gone. I don't imagine I'll have much success, but I love to tinker anyway. I could always get lucky!

I'm headed down to the basement. Going to try and get at least one more system up and running today so I have a couple to play with and try different things.

EDIT:
Ok, something interesting to report. Hopefully you all saw the video I posted yesterday, and from that video, you can see how long my motor actually ran. In addition to that, I also reported that I accidentally left the on switch in the on position but shut my system down by turning off the lights that act as the load across battery three and cause the system to start up. While I was upstairs posting, I heard my motor come on down in the basement, and walked down to turn it off. That couldn't have been more than an additional minute of run time. During BOTH of those runs I had a load on the motor of a second motor acting as a generator and running a 12 volt auto dome light. Not MUCH of a load but some. Anyway, that's the summary of events. Here's what's interesting:

When I began, voltage on battery 3 was zero volts. It ran without load for the time it took me to walk down to the basement and had charged up to 11+. I don't remember what, and I didn't write it down, but I think I did post it here somewhere. Doesn't matter, because it has dropped to 5.8 volts
Battery 1 Began at 12.11 (low, I know...shame on me!) When I went down to measure it just now it was at 12.19
Battery 2 Began at 12.09. I just measured it at 12.21
And that's after resting all night, and I measured it with a light bulb connected as load. Now I wish I had measured the amps on both those batteries yesterday, but I didn't.
I also flipped the switch to run the thing, and it did NOT start up. This is the first time EVER that a motor which was allowed to start on its own with no load on battery 3 did not start IMMEDIATELY the next time I flipped the switch (for at least the next couple days) AT least for ME it is, and I have been doing this off and on for four years.

Sooooo, I am going to go down and use the same three batteries. I will measure the amps on each one. I will flip the switch with no load on battery three and let it start itself, and then add loads. I will run the generator and connect some lights to it and try and balance the load. Right now I am still working with the basic circuit. I have not added the transistor or resistor or anything....just my funky weird acting battery number three.


Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 03-29-2012 at 04:06 PM.
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  #525  
Old 03-29-2012, 03:48 PM
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Turion, I had a similar third battery as you. This battery would only hold 11 volts so I knew it might not work for this application but I might be able to renew it. So I hooked it up and of course motor started instantly, I wanted to speed the motor up so I loaded third battery with one light, nothing then a second and still did not speed up. I to thought this was strange but figured it was something simple I didn't understand. By the way third battery is holding a steady 12.68 volts now.
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  #526  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:25 PM
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Minoly, you have to many posts to quete them all.

Wire wound resistors have no inductance so rethink the issue. The reason your are getting heat is because you have ELECTRICITY flowing through it.

Current + SemiConductor (Of and indadequete size) = HEAT

AND NO A RELAY WON"T HELP ANYTHING...

I think alot of you people are sitting around thinking to much. How'bout put somthing together and start finding solutions, as opposed to sitting around speculating on other people can fix their stuff.

There is no problem here the solution is an adequete switch.

And if I keep getting the feeling that we have bunch of thinkers over here I will retire from this thread and all MODS from this point out will be posted in my private forum and all ya'll will get to see snap shots of whats happening.

Less talk more work!
Matt
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  #527  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:34 PM
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Minoly,
There is a private thread for the Tesla Switch. It has nothing to do with this. I have shared everything about THIS project right here on THIS forum. I have even brought things to here that I have gotten in private e-mails.

But I am also a member of three private forums that are invitation only because people there are working on projects, some of them for profit, who do not want lurkers running off with their ideas and patenting them when they have done all the hard work, which happens here all the time. And in those groups we have agreements that you don't share on the public forums any circuits or ideas that the group has posted for other members of the private forum to work with or on.

Luther and I CHOSE to open this up to everyone, because we felt it was important, and because we are not in this for the money. We want to make a difference. But I have no doubt that there are folks here who would love to grab this and run patent it if they thought they could make a buck. And no doubt some of them will try. So as far as I am concerned, this IS open sourced. Will it always be? Who knows. Will everybody always share EVERYTHING they come up with? Probably not. Should they? If they do the research, they do the building, they do the work, do THEY owe us anything? I would like to think they would throw us a bone and give us what they came up with after they patented their idea, but prior to that? Ever heard of the story of the Little Red Hen? I used to read it to my kids. The Storyteller Online - Dr. Mike Lockett

Dave
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  #528  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:41 PM
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Comments by some people familiar with patent law have indicated that if it's on the Internet and stated as open source that anyone trying to patent it will have a very hard if not impossible time. I would personally save all the web pages on your thread if it's a concern.

I would like to be spending more time working with this but there ARE reasons why not everyone can spend as much time building and tinkering. I envy those who can. I'm trying personally to get to where I can spend more with real hands on but it's not easy in my situation. So I try to keep up to speed and help out with some ideas when possible.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:43 PM
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@ Patrick
with the system I used last night, my transistor stayed cool to the touch, no heat. So it is absolutely a matter of matching a switch with the load, big enough switch, and no fryday!

I have ceramic resistors with lots of different ohm and wattage values, and I might try some others, and see if I don't get better results. After letting my batteries rest overnight, I was hoping to see them climb above the original starting voltage, but they are holding strong where they started at least. imho, that is still pretty good, considering I ran the 3BGS three separate times, and even ran a 2BGS once with one of them, and used different bat3's in each run. That is more work in one day that I have ever put the batteries through before, and I was able to do that because of the faster recovery time.

There is definitely something right going on here, that doesn't happen without the resistor and transistor in place.
I have a few things to do this afternoon, but hope to have some time tonight to try another longer run, and maybe dig out a few of those other resistors and see what I can do with them.

I really hope this thread does not get all contentious and fall apart. There is something amazing going on here, and if this blows up because people can't get along, the loss will be unfortunate. This is an extremely simple setup to build, and that is THE goal, isn't it?
Anyway, regardless of what happens, I am going to keep at this. I have seen too much good come out of this setup already to just walk away.

N8
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:56 PM
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Guys,
My wife works in intellectual property law, so I have a pretty clear idea what can and cannot be done with material that has been put out here. I knew before I did it.

I intend to keep researching and posting my results here, and we're really, really close, so hang in there.

Dave
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:40 PM
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Here what I am talking about Minoly.

"why is the transistor getting hot in the first place"

So something must be wrong if its HOT....?

NO its getting hot cause you got to much going through it. Doesn't mean its wrong, just means you need a bigger switch.

and for further detail...

All this gets annoying. You cannot get a single concentration of good information. You have spam through all the "Why don't you try this..", deviation from the plan, and "Heres my plan".
Just build the thing as per recipe and report on it so we can move forward. If your not building the recipe and your trying everything under the sun do not chime every time some one who is building the recipe.
So what if an SSG doesn't act the same, it has no torque either. And it is really no better than a TOY for children with fresh minds. It has no pertinence to the recipe.

The point is if someone jumps in now they wade through a bunch of MUCK. And I have never been able to figure out why that is OK

I'll post again one of these days when I get the thing to the point its doing what I want to do. And thats only cause I want to help Dave.

Matt
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:10 PM
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Test run results

Original setup with the addition of two diodes connected between the terminals on battery 3. 1n4004
Did not need a load to start the motor
Voltage on meter barely moved off "zero" for battery 3 at the flip of the switch and returned immediately to 0
Motor was MUCH hotter than generator to the touch, so only ran it for about three minutes. Interesting blue light shining out of the motor, while just normal sparks on the generator. Some of us have seen that blue light before!!!
Had a small load on the generator.

Starting V Batt 1 12.30...Ending 12.25...after 5 minute rest 12.38 +.08
Batt 2 12.22...Ending 12.16...after 5 minute rest 12.27 +.05

Will post video to YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpAgsINmgTM
Be WARNED, motor noise is LOUD.

Looks like a winner to me. I am going to try this with my larger 110 volt motor. I feel more comfortable running it on 24 volts than running the 12 volt motor on 24 volts.
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Last edited by Turion; 03-30-2012 at 02:38 AM.
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  #533  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:38 PM
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Minoly,
I think you and I were sending a post at the same time, and I hit my send button quicker, so you may have missed my last post. You should be sure and read it. I haven't run mine with a single transistor, or with a pair yet. Tried that yesterday, but my battery wouldn't let the system start up and run, and I thought it might be my wiring, so I went from two transistors to one to none, and when my original wouldn't run, I knew it was not the new circuit, so messed with the battery all day.

My most successful run has been the straight setup with a balanced load...until today. I did NOT do a long run because I was afraid of burning up the 12 volt motor running it on 24 volts, but I definitely DID see a significant increase in the two primary batteries within minutes of shutting the system down. Going down to check them again and will report any changes here now that they have rested for a while.

I would try the setup with just the two diodes. I would also make sure I switched wires on my motor because sometimes it makes a difference which direction the motor is turning do to interior brush placement. Don't know WHY, but it does. So try both combinations of wires.

Good luck! I feel like we are really, really close!!!!!

EDIT: Went down to check my two primaries now that they have rested for thirty minutes... #1 at 12.40 a gain of exactly 1 volt.....#2 at 12.30 a gain of .08 If the primaries can gain a volt for every three minutes the motor runs...I think we might be onto something here! Meet you at the bar! I'm buying!

EDIT: Almost an hour since the last time I checked the batteries and they have stabilized at the voltages I showed in the edit above. Tested with a load, and it was not just a surface charge.

Dave
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  #534  
Old 03-29-2012, 10:42 PM
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Original setup with the addition of two diodes connected between the terminals on battery 3.
Dave, which way are your diodes pointing?

regards,
Mario
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:54 PM
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Mario,
I did it as Matt suggested, with one diode pointing each direction. Pretty simple. Hard to make a mistake with that one.

I have had my big motor running for 15 minutes with the same setup.I will post data on that one in 10 more minutes. I want to give my batteries the 30 minutes they need to recover as I gave them when running the small motors. I don't hold as high hopes for the bigger motor because it is 110 volt motor running on just 24 volts, so the RPM's are much lower than the small motor, and it is running my sixteen coil energizer, which is a heavier load. But it will still be a good test of the setup.

Test results:
Starting voltage Battery 1...12.40...after 15 minute run 12.23. After 30 minute rest...12.36 -.04
Battery 2....12.30...after 15 minute run 12.12. After 30 minute rest...12.26 -.04
It may be that the batteries need a little more time to recover, so I will check them in another 30 minutes to make sure the voltage has stabilized as I did with the batteries after the run with the smaller motors.

One thing of note...I did NOT see the blue light inside the motor that I saw with the small motor when it was running. I will take my OWN advice and do a second test run with the same number of batteries, but with the wires on the motor switched to see if that makes a difference. Then I will also do some 15 minute runs with additional batteries in series so I can get the RPM's of the motor up a lot higher and see if the benefits outweigh the losses. But first I want to do the wire switching thing to make sure I have optimized my opportunity for charging. If there are no other posts between now and when I check at the end of an hour, I will edit here, if there are, I will post final data in a new post if the results are different than what I have shared so far.

EDIT: That's where voltages stand after an hours rest and stabilizing. So will switch the motor wires and make another run, but probably not until tomorrow morning.
Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 03-30-2012 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:16 AM
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New Diagram

Dave, will you please post a modified diagram showing the diodes? What puzzles me is that you put them across the bad battery and not across the positive of bat 1 and the positive of the bad battery.

Thanks for all the hard work!
Tony
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:54 AM
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I don't have access to my computer for a while to post a diagram, but that is correct. Two diodes, side by side, each pointing in a different direction, connected between the poles of battery #3. Other than that addition it is the very first diagram I posted on page one. Matt talked about using diodes, and I just wanted to see what would happen. For sure it worked with the smaller motor, because I "saw the light" and it was blue.

With a larger motor we may need more voltage, a bigger battery for more area on the plates, or possibly resistors before the diodes. Luther and I have been discussing this. I would love to hear what Matt has to say. He may say I have the diodes in the wrong place, but they are working ok right where they are on the small motor. They may work BETTER in a different location. But anybody who has messed with this stuff would recognize that blue spark of radiant energy inside that motor. For those who have never seen it, I will post a video tomorrow of that motor running off 24 volt standard current, and then 24 volts radiant energy. The difference is unmistakable.

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 03-30-2012 at 01:10 AM.
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  #538  
Old 03-30-2012, 01:03 AM
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Hey Turion,

Did you read the post-answer I left at my Forum to your question?
That "Blue Light" you are getting on the video I saw...is Radiant Energy...if you keep "trapping" it is going to burn-fuse your commutator elements with the mica behind them...
I really do not want to start arguing with ANYONE else in this post HERE, about BEMF or CEMF and Radiant Energy...I am only trying to help Turion understand what is going on HIS set-up.


Here is my post:

Quote:
Hey Turion,

I watched your video...and also your friend on same project.

Now, I get a vision of what you are talking about...and yes, I do understand it well what is going on there...

The Motor is a PM Brushed motor, as you have written in your posts...well, even another type..a Motor have "closed contacts" , meaning closed circuit, continuity at all times you connect it between potential...and those contacts lead to the Coils disposed inside...
Ok, what you have there is a Motor that when it is connected to the three batteries it acts like an Inductor...when NOT running, I meant...so, when the Positive from old battery is "Less Positive" or the same as "More Negative" than the Positive from the Source Batteries...it builds enough potential to develop a magnetic field inside the motor, strong enough that allows rotation...And, of course, the more loads you add to the Batteries at Source...the more "Negative" the Positive from used battery will be...so this will create a heavier EM Field on Motor...accelerating it...
Now, Radiant will flow and charge the battery...remember Radiant-Cold runs opposite to Hot current...so at the "More Negative" Positive of Hot will be Radiant Positive...and that is what charges your battery...

Actually the Old to be charged battery, works in this circuit like a Non Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor...and Your Motor is at Off (idling) as an Inductor Coil...till it starts running.

Remember there is either "Excess or Lack of electrons" what determines which one is "Positive" or "Negative"...all "relative" concepts my friend. There is always a "More positive than"...or "More Negative than..." in any electrical-electronic equation.."

Just something else I just remember...Your friends video adds a very heavy mechanical load on that motor...and then it gains power at charge up...this is completely logical...when He is loading the motor ...it slows RPM's, therefore there is more "Time On " per Coil inside motor. so more time for Radiant to flow out...
This motor is running on Linear source...not pulsed...however the commutation inside makes it "pulse"...when rotating.

To convince yourself of what am talking about...set just a Diode between the Motor and the Old Battery positive terminal...blocking positive from Battery to motor, and allowing Negative to flow instead , but allowing incoming Radiant Positive from motor to battery...and let's see what happens.

Cheers


Ufopolitics...
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:12 AM
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Thanks Ufo,

I will give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Then I may come talk to you again.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:32 AM
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You've got the right idea with the diodes Dave, they are in the right place.

Matt
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