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  #4801  
Old 06-23-2019, 09:22 PM
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One possibilities so magnets are not flush with the surface of the rotor
"might" keep the flux down to a minimum, however 4" Lexan and 1.5"
shaft and bearing would work also.

Acetal Sheets $268 here for 3" X 14" X 14" probablt to expensive tho.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u751Qmq6li0


https://www.professionalplastics.com...-POMSHEET-RODS

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Last edited by BroMikey; 06-23-2019 at 10:29 PM.
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  #4802  
Old 06-23-2019, 10:36 PM
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You don't ever, ever, EVER want the magnets to stick out of the rotor. Take it from someone who learned the hard way. If they catch on ANYTHING at high speed, that rotor can EXPLODE. Neos flying at a couple thousand rpm won't go as deep into you as a bullet, but the impact area is a WHOLE LOT bigger. With what I have seen it do to lightweight metal, plastic and wood, I truly FEAR what it will do to flesh and bone.
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  #4803  
Old 06-24-2019, 01:48 AM
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I really do have these same fears of ceramic glass bullets flying
so it is so critical for me to have the magnet shield on mine. Without
a solid steel shield I would be afraid too. Also I would be afraid of a 5/8"
shaft for such a big rotor. If it was me and had all that money use for
this project the shaft and bearings would be over 1" to cut down on
any play.

you know I have not thought enough about this yet having so many
magnets on a rotor of metals. What went thru my mine was to have
a small distance as shown so if it was a metal rotor the opposition
magnetic fields would not have an effect being so far away.

Leaves you one thing to use, non metal rotor, I can't even find any
plastics that thick yet. Lexan would be so much heavier and you
bearings would need to be bigger is all.

There is composite board just as good as steel, I just can't find it
again. It is a higher temperature rated material.

The other guy is right, aluminum would heat up at 1/8" gap really bad.
The shields also now only safe guard against impact of the ceramic but
could reduce the size of the magnets and you are going to need them
with 24 of them side by side anyway.

If I see that (Oflalic?based composite) special board again I'll point
it out to you down the road. Either way being so close together those
magnets might have overlapping fields without a shield.
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  #4804  
Old 06-24-2019, 02:38 AM
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Update

Found some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet

I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.
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  #4805  
Old 06-24-2019, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Found some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet

I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.
Dang nice find, yer good to go, same price as the link I sent you for 3".

Please consider doing some experiments or just treating the whole
thing as an evolving work. I am going to draw it out in a minute, trying
to think how much space is in between the magnets. Maybe there is
enough so no fields overlap. Boy that would be nice, wouldn't it?

That floppy rotor you sent me? Don't want to hurt your feelings
here. Anyway the system you have works so I think you
should stay with that unless you want to build a few little ones?

The same material as the thin floppy one is excellent and I am a good
of mechanical structures. Or some plastic thick enough, plus the magnets
are long cylinders and have all of that surface area to grab not like
standing up a silver dollar and trying to fasten it with the edge only.

Yet even with only a tiny edge it held pretty good so think of how much
better itis going to be. Safer. Here is the way i think lately on my design.

First I like shields (youknow) and I like press fit and magnets inside
steel sleeves have the advantage. First and foremost steel can be struck
and the ceramic glass inside of it will not crack. My only problem is
I want to attach the sleeves first by press fit and then tack weld those
once centered to the rotor disc. So as a compromise I have threaded
sleeves on the outside that could be tack welded also.

So what? Maybe I could come back over my rotors with a nice plastic
cover to shim up the space? Hum... got me thinking on safety.

Yeah $300 bucks is a lot of Maui Waui It's worth it.
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  #4806  
Old 06-24-2019, 06:20 AM
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I will finish later but this is what I wanted to find out.

12" rotor 24 magnets around a 10" circle leaving 1/2" plastic
perimeter = 10" X 3.14 = 31.4" - 24" (the magnets) = 7.4"
left over to evenly space magnets @.308" not enough room
between to keep the fields from overlapping and no room
to come back later to add shields.

Still got 29days left to figure in the math. If you go to a 13" circle
you will have a .57" between so use a 14" rotor, I would say, this
would give you more flexibility in case you had to come back later.

It's yer baby.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/graphrotor.jpg
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  #4807  
Old 06-24-2019, 02:57 PM
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Info

Bro Mikey,
Attached is a way to make SURE the magnets do NOT come out of the rotor. In the 41/4” thick material you drill in two inches deep and 3/4 wide from each side. This leaves you 1/4 thick material in the center 3/4 diameter. You drill a 1/2” diameter hole in that material and fill it with a 1/4 thick by 1/2 diameter magnet. This acts as a magnetic link between the two larger magnets. Good luck getting them out!

Also attached is a picture of arotor with magnet centers at rotor centers. This is what needs to happen to fit the construction of the coil holder from the size materials I have shown. As you can see, there is plenty of room between magnets. There needs to be at least a magnet width between magnets , and I have more than that. But I also have only 12 (on each side) magnets on the rotor. I have room for more, so I am going to look at that.

Have you built a rotor WITH iron shielding and one WITHOUT iron shielding around the rotor magnets to measure the difference in coil output? I ask because adding iron shielding basically increased the diameter of the rotor magnet which means you can have FEWER magnets on the rotor. If there IS a gain from using magnetic shielding it is going to be x amount per magnet pass times a number of magnets vs a smaller output times a larger number of magnets. Which gives the most output? I don’t know. I really can’t afford to build two rotors to compare the difference.

Also, it doesn’t have to be 24 magnets or 12 magnets. It can be any even numbered amount.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg C7C6461C-D59D-46EA-A1F4-EB672CC8CBEE.jpg (212.7 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg 8AEAF448-1E4E-41C8-8CD1-582E92CA3D80.jpg (359.8 KB, 141 views)
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  #4808  
Old 06-25-2019, 12:16 AM
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I wish the video had analog meters to show the actual voltages before, during and after.
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  #4809  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I have room for more, so I am going to look at that.

Have you built a rotor WITH iron shielding and one WITHOUT iron shielding around the rotor magnets to measure the difference in coil output? I ask because adding iron shielding basically increased the diameter of the rotor magnet which means you can have FEWER magnets on the rotor. If there IS a gain from using magnetic shielding it is going to be x amount per magnet pass times a number of magnets vs a smaller output times a larger number of magnets. Which gives the most output? I don’t know. I really can’t afford to build two rotors to compare the difference.

Also, it doesn’t have to be 24 magnets or 12 magnets. It can be any even numbered amount.
Here is an example of the magnet covers I use to make them impact
resistant. This is the thickness I use and here are the benefits.

$5 per foot

https://mysteelyard.com/product_info...ducts_id=11274

negligible as far as space is concerned. Once in all side projecting
fields are pushed out front where we want it. There are some examples
on youtube where magnet rotors having upperwards of 20 have shields
and magnets4less only has a cheap refrigerator magnet junk pile.

Once pressed in you can and should leave a few thousandths sticking
out then the outer surface of the shield can be wildly ground rough tp
a point of distortion to receive a greater epoxy contact and holding
power. Much better. What is even more important for your application
is that the magnets all having shields would increase the holding power
probably 50%

The most important use is when you want magnets close together so
their fields are out front and not over lapping. It is a harder task that
you may be tempted to stay away from even though it might produce
double the output.

here is what I know, when bring a block of steel near my shield-less
magnets at the bloch wall they spin around and snap right on at a
distance of 1/4".

With shield the same block of steel has no effect and does not respond.
No magnetic pull sitting right on the bloch wall, nothing, it's all out
front and man is it ever strong where it is suppose to be.

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  #4810  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:41 AM
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Videos

I am going back and finding old videos on my phone to post to YouTube. NONE of them were made to give out information. None were made to share with YOU. Most were made to share specific things with Matt or with my machinist about issues as we developed the generator. Some of the videos show inputs, and some show outputs. Some may show BOTH. Remember, as I begin posting these, they are EARLIER versions of the generator. Many were BEFORE I figured out speed up under load or magnetic neutralization.

You will see many, MANY mistakes as I learn what things like amps and volts are, and how to really measure them. Remember, I was a school principal for crying out loud! The only electricity I knew how to work with was AC, and only enough about circuits to wire a house without getting myself killed. You will see me measuring the AC output of the coils with the meter set on DC. You will see me trying to measure amps with no load, or whatever. Am I embarrassed? Nah. Too old for that crap. I make mistakes. I move on. I try to give you the truth as I know it. AM I always correct? NO. But what fun would it be if I was always right? Then bi would have nothing to complain about!


https://youtu.be/l4Rjh0w3SuY
https://youtu.be/K-ofPZCBUak
https://youtu.be/ZwfcVr4dWOc

The next video I am about to post shows the machine running on 36 volts and drawing 18 amps with only HALF the coils in place. It is SIGNIFICANT that I can now run the same motor on 24 volts at 12 amps with ALL TWELVE coils in place, don't you think????

https://youtu.be/A3DakXN-cR8
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  #4811  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I am going back and finding old videos on my phone to post to YouTube. NONE of them were made to give out information. None were made to share with YOU. Most were made to share specific things with Matt or with my machinist about issues as we developed the generator. Some of the videos show inputs, and some show outputs. Some may show BOTH. Remember, as I begin posting these, they are EARLIER versions of the generator. Many were BEFORE I figured out speed up under load or magnetic neutralization.

You will see many, MANY mistakes as I learn what things like amps and volts are, and how to really measure them. Remember, I was a school principal for crying out loud! The only electricity I knew how to work with was AC, and only enough about circuits to wire a house without getting myself killed. You will see me measuring the AC output of the coils with the meter set on DC. You will see me trying to measure amps with no load, or whatever. Am I embarrassed? Nah. Too old for that crap. I make mistakes. I move on. I try to give you the truth as I know it. AM I always correct? NO. But what fun would it be if I was always right? Then bi would have nothing to complain about!


https://youtu.be/l4Rjh0w3SuY
https://youtu.be/K-ofPZCBUak
https://youtu.be/ZwfcVr4dWOc

The next video I am about to post shows the machine running on 36 volts and drawing 18 amps with only HALF the coils in place. It is SIGNIFICANT that I can now run the same motor on 24 volts at 12 amps with ALL TWELVE coils in place, don't you think????

https://youtu.be/A3DakXN-cR8
Cool little machine, so compact and lets see 36vdc X 18amps = 650watt
approx. You could run six 100watt bulbs right Bi? A principle?
No wonder I been feeling like I am being sent to the office so many
times. the principles office is the scary place

All seriousness set aside I think you standing in front of that
rotor without a guard has me on pins and nettles over here. I guess
you were right about mistakes but it is lots of fun to watch your
early stuff. What people don't know cause they ain't old as us is
how Tesla books were around in the 60's when we were kids and this
is when they all went in the dumpster at our school. Even as a boy I
had the smarts to go out back and dig those books out.

They painted Nick to be a mental maniac in the newspapers with
drawings of electrical probes sticking out of peoples heads as a
health cure. During the mid to late 1900's there was so much
conflict with the subjects he wrote about. I went to the principles
office and asked if the Tesla books would be replaced that were
pitched in the trash. He said no, that these subjects were outdated.

I was 14years. I was sad about it. I would spend long hours reading
those books learning the material and then nothing replaced it. In
later years starting from 14 whenever i went to a school library or
a college library I never found a single Tesla book. Still to this day
I am in disbelief.

Thank you for these special video's based on Tesla's work that has
always been dear to my heart.

Yes quite significant that the neutralization magnets have cut down
the amp draw to less than half of 648watts.

I am a firm believer in the neutralization part. All North's for me.
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  #4812  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:59 PM
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Magnet d vs L



You rarely see (don't know if I ever have) generator or motor magnets with thickness greater than the sq rt of face area, or in this case, length greater than diameter. I'm not sure what you use for design criteria, but if you run through this calculator for flux or pull force, or repelling force, for various thickness (L) values, you can figure point of diminishing returns, or in other words, paying for PM volume which doesn't do anything good.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.repel.asp

Also, in that diagram, the .5 dia x .25" thick magnet in the middle will serve better if it were iron or steel.

bi
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  #4813  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:07 PM
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Most interesting thought, please explain your mind sight as you are seeing it in action.
Thanks bistander.
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  #4814  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:48 PM
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Mind sight?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pot head View Post
Most interesting thought, please explain your mind sight as you are seeing it in action.
Thanks bistander.
Simple. Why don't you see long bar magnets used in commercial generators and motors? What attribute is enhanced by using a 3/4dia x 3" long magnet over the 3/4dia x 2" long, or 1" long magnet?

Turion said a few weeks ago it was the magnet mass which matters. Sometimes that is true (certainly in the price). But not so much for the attributes (flux, force, etc) in all cases. Maybe for a 3/4" dia magnet going from 1/8 to 1/4" thick makes a big difference. But 3" thick?

But then I have no idea why he chose that.

bi
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  #4815  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:42 PM
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Bi gets a star on his forehead and not sent to the office, Right?
Bi you are being goated into going off the handle as you love
so well.

What are you talking about, round and square , thick and thin.

What about speed up? Did you do a coil that speeds up?
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  #4816  
Old 06-25-2019, 11:30 PM
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Magnet mass

The mass of the magnet determines the flux created in the coil. But every coil has a limit to how much flux it is capable of accepting during the time of the magnet pass. Whether a two inch thick magnet will create more flux than a 3/4 inch thick magnet is yet to be determined. So FAR I have tried 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1” thick magnets. With each version I got more output. I made the decision to skip a few steps and go straight to a 2” magnet, and would have gone to 3" if I could find rotor material thick enough. There is a chance there will be no more flux that with a 1” magnet and I will have wasted my money. Since this is the LAST version of this generator I am building I made the decision to take that risk. Folks can do what they want. And based on past performance, nobody is going to build a replication anyway. The one thing I was hoping to see was being able to increase the speed without reducing the output. Because iron cn only fill at a certain rate, you are in danger of passing the core before it has absorbed the magnet flux from the passing magnet, so there are lots of things to be tested with this machine. As I have stated before, it works, but it may not be Army material yet ("Be all you can be")
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  #4817  
Old 06-26-2019, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
So FAR I have tried 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1” thick magnets. With each version I got more output. I made the decision to skip a few steps and go straight to a 2” magnet,
Magnets strenghth
2" X .250 = 50lb
1" X .250 =25lb
1" X .500 =50lb
1" X 1" =100lb
1" X 2" =200lb

Roughly, give or take generalization, I know you have .250 so is this
the thickness you normally used in your smaller magnet tests or were
some of them thicker? My 1/2" X 1" = 50lb

I think core dia is 3/4" right? or are you using 1"? Maybe you tried 2"
but that depends on material.
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  #4818  
Old 06-26-2019, 02:01 AM
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Magnets

I started with 2” x 1/4
Went to 1” x 1/4 but twice as many
Went to 1” x 1/2
Went to 1” x 3/4
Went to 1” x 1
Went to 3/4 x 1” but more magnets on rotor.
Decided 3/4 was minimum diameter I wanted to try.
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  #4819  
Old 06-26-2019, 02:19 AM
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I would be interested in the 1" X 1" rotor magnet build since
these magnets have twice the strength of your 2" X .250.

24 magnets on a 12" rotor? If so that rotor would offer 4X the
flux or better of your thin 2" ones but like you say it depends a lot on
cores too.

Gaps make huge difference I noticed with my 50lb magnets. A 1/4" gap
barely did much. I went to 1/8" then a tiny smaller and wow wee did that
speed up great. I think you use 1/8"
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Old 06-26-2019, 04:09 AM
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Duration is the time it takes for the core material to pass over the
magnet. Mine is bottom right.

Also the frequency of the impulse coming off the big magnets is lower
and the 24 magnet rotors would be many times that. The duration of
the 2" magnet is 2X that of the or the 1" magnet

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/magcore.jpg
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Old 06-26-2019, 05:32 AM
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Air Gap

The air gap makes an INCREDIBLE difference. I am using 1/16 air gap on current machine/ With machine tolerances that can be reduced.

ALL the numbers I have EVER shared were from My first machine with six of the 2" x 1/4 magnets running at 2800 rpm with a 1/8-1/4 air gap. I couldn't GET it any closer than that. Coils were 3 strands of #23 each 800 ft long. 12 coils

With a machinist's help the CURRENT machine has 12 of the 1" x 3/4 magnets on it running at 3800 rpm with a 1/16 air gap. Coils 24 strands 125 feet long of #23. 10 coils. I'm real sure the new machine will bow my big one out the door. And I REALLY want to build that last one I have talked about.

Got a project up on the bench tomorrow, and it works, I am afraid I am done here. I won't be sharing that, and I won't have time to waste on this anymore. I have given everything I can here. Now it is up to people to build it or don't.
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:16 PM
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bi,
I was perfectly clear that there HAS always been a heat issue with my generator. I have warned people MANY times that you cannot run magnets past rotors with iron cores for more than about 20 minutes without melting the coils. I have a very large container filled with used copper wires because the coating melts off the wires and the coils short out. I have replaced a full set of coils twice now, which, at about $700 a set, is over $2,000.00 worth of wire. One of the reasons I have NO machine put together when I actually have 3 different versions of the machine is because I cannibalized the coils out of other machines just so I would have ONE machine with coils. THAT machine is at the machinist having work done, and then additional work to implement the water cooling system i recently came up with. That requires removing the cores from every coil and putting the cores all back in with LONGER cores. After which it WILL be independently tested. To insinuate that I haven't built the machine is idiotic. I have shown dozens of videos of it running. To ASSUME I have a problem I cannot solve so am trying to get others to do the work for me is also idiotic. How many people are going to spend the money to REPLICATE my generator? NONE. My hope has ALWAYS been that they would build a simple one coil machine and test to see if the concepts are TRUE. Once they KNOW the truth, there is no going back.

My machinist is one of the FEW people who has seen this machine actually running and has measured inputs and outputs. He does all my machine work for FREE now because he wants to build and SELL these machines to all the people he knows from the marijuana clubs to power their grow lights off the grid since I released all the info on this machine to the public domain. His business is G-Force Machining and his number is 408-472-7381. It was through HIM that I got the machine tested at the independent lab, and he was there for the testing. He can tell you all about it. His business, as I have said before, is in Santa Clara, CA, which is a long drive from my home. He can also verify that he currently has my machine sitting in his shop, just as I have said.

I had hoped that ferrite or metglass cores might solve the heat problem, but have always had concerns that their ability to absorb and release the flux quickly would negate the speed up under load ability of the coil. And while I do not WANT the coil to cause the motor to speed up under load, I DO want it to allow the rotor to free wheel with no drag on the motor because of Lenz. There is a possibility that even with ferrite cores you could increase the capacitance of the coil ENOUGH to get the effect simply by adding a capacitor in parallel to the coil, as Tesla suggests in his patent. This would allow EVERY coil to have the capacitance to display the delayed lenz effect. This is something I want to experiment with when I have TIME.

I don't blame people for having doubts, but at this time I simply do NOT have everything together to show you what you want. I could demonstrate the impact of a single coil or even a coil pair on the amp draw and rpm of the motor, and show that the magnetic neutralization effect neutralizes the amp draw and allows the original rpm. I could demonstrate the output of a single coil or a coil pair and that it does not change the rpm of the motor when put under load. But you would have to take my word for it that when all 10 or 12 coils are in place (depending on the machine) they all exhibit the same reaction. I could demonstrate the output of a coil or a coil pair, but you would have to trust that the five or six coil pair would EACH put out the same amount. What the difference is between trusting that all those things would be true and trusting that the machine does what I say it does, I really do NOT understand. Even if I showed all that, the machine I would be using to demonstrate is my coil tester, and does not have as many magnets on the rotor, nor are they as thick as the ones in the current machine, nor are the air gaps as tight. ALL those things contribute to the efficiency of the generator output exponentially. Ask the guys here how many watts they are getting out of the coils they have built that are similar to mine. You don't HAVE to take my word for it. Then look at the size if their rotors, the size of their magnets and the gap between rotor and coil. Ask them, or build one YOURSELF.

In your opinion, this is all a fake. In my opinion, you are an idiot. One of us is RIGHT.

There are folks here who have replicated the magnetic neutralization. They KNOW it works. There are folks here who have replicated the speed up under load. They KNOW it works.

If you can turn a rotor at a specific rpm with a motor and the introduction of power producing coils causes NO increase in the amp draw of the motor and in NO WAY affects the rpm of the rotor, just keep adding coils until you get whatever output YOU WANT. It is not rocket science. Any of you who truly WANT to can prove BOTH of these concepts with a single rotor and a single coil. You do not have to replicate my machine. If you do not have enough interest, money or time to do THAT LITTLE, then I have no compassion for you AT ALL because you are not truly a researcher. You are a whiner who wants everything given to you, and I won't do that.

Skywatcher has built a rotor. He will soon see if I have told the truth or not, and once you KNOW the truth; once you have seen it on your own bench, NO ONE can convince you otherwise.

Doogy,
You asked why I would abandon this if it were for real, or why I would leave it in my shop. I worked for TEN YEARS on this project with the idea that it would solve many of the problems of people all over the world. All I wanted out of it was enough money for my wife to retire and to have the income we have now. I saw this as a way to make that money, and I had EVERY INTENTION of patenting it. I contacted patent attorneys and had meetings with attorneys. In one meeting there were THREE different attorneys representing patent law, business law, and intellectual property law (which is also what my wife does). The patent attorney is also an electrical engineer. I did a demo of my machine for the three of them. If you want their names, I can provide them too.

I had individuals representing investors come to my house so that I could demonstrate inputs and outputs without disclosing how the machine worked. I almost took the step of forming a corporation to apply for a patent so that we could solicit financial backing and form our own company.

But then I made the decision to release all of this on the forum? Why? For two reasons.

One, I believe it is important that this information gets out there because this machine is SIMPLE ENOUGH that anyone anywhere in the world with access to a junk yard can build a working version of it once they understand the basic principles. As long as they can come up with magnets somehow.

Two, would YOU feel bad selling someone a flintlock pistol as the "latest technology" when you had a 9mm Glock in your trunk? I would.

There is not a statement I have made that I have not verified on the bench. It isn't difficult to test these concepts with a very simple build. Those who want to claim this isn't for real and are too lazy to do the work to verify one way or the other deserve EXACTLY what they have now. NO working machine. Those who DO the work and build a simple one coil machine so they can put these concepts into practice and actually TEST to see if they work will reap their own reward. And they are welcome to contact me any time. My eMail address is dvd.bowling@ gmail.com

Adios
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Last edited by Turion; 06-27-2019 at 06:49 PM.
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  #4823  
Old 06-27-2019, 04:51 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is online now
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Thanks Dave beautiful expose of people who just complain and are
unable to trust. I trust you Dave. You are one of the few. I have been
able to tell what people are like in their first few sentences for a number
of years now. Some have an open mind and some have a close thought
process. The reasons vary.

I have demonstrated magnet neutralization in video form. I have given
a demonstration of coils that speed up under load. To realize that with
these two concepts would allow a person to build an O.U. machine takes
a person who has done some generating conventionally.

Even someone who has borrowed a gas generator in a power out knows
that the more things you plug into it the more gasoline it takes. it is
common sense which many folks do not have.

So when you show a way to get power without increasing the drive
motor input the bell should ring in our ears. For those who can't see
this probably can't change the oil on a car or replace a tire without
going to the shop. These type of individual want and take the cushy
jobs, do what they are told like robots never questioning. As long as
they keep their wives happy, their bosses happy and go to Easter
service they feel they are the elite class.

To get them to understand that everything they have is a cheap lie
and that the truth is still out there, is impossible. It would be like
trying to explain to a transgender that they were born spiritually Bi.

Void, zero, empty

This is a no win, no hope class of programmed stoners with no
conscience.

Then there are the few who exhibit the many fruits of the spirit, receiving
freely and building on the instructions you have given. We thank you for
your perseverance and dedication. This makes it worth it all. Yes we must
defend the tittle. It is a mighty claim and awesome achievement of a
lifetime.

Michael Rowland

Here folks can contact me

mrowland55@embarqmail.com
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Last edited by BroMikey; 06-27-2019 at 04:58 AM.
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  #4824  
Old 06-27-2019, 11:33 AM
Doogy2Shoes Doogy2Shoes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
bi,


But then I made the decision to release all of this on the forum? Why? For two reasons.

Two, would YOU feel bad selling someone a flintlock pistol as the "latest technology" when you had a 9mm Glock in your trunk? I would.
What do you mean?
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:10 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Outdated tech

The generator is outdated tech, which is why spending time on it just to PROVE stuff to people drives me nuts, although I DO still want to build one final version just to incorporate everything I have learned.
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  #4826  
Old 06-28-2019, 02:39 AM
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BroMikey BroMikey is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doogy2Shoes View Post
What do you mean?
Saying one is locked and loaded MEANS he is always ready, I always
say I was born ready goodie2shoes.

Turion

It was hot today. Staying cool inside gets me drilling holes on a project.
The index is 130+ Oh and I really look foreword to this year as my
machine will be up and running.
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Old 07-10-2019, 03:13 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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About charging the battery with pulses...... theres is a pulsing frequency where the impedance of the battery goes to a minimum and THAT is the frequency where the most charge is accepted. When the charge is NOT accepted, the charging pulse is WASTED. When a couple volts or an amp are the difference between success and failure, those things make a difference. (For Lithium ion cells this ACCEPTABLE charging frequency is in the tens of kilohertz range) That is one of the reasons the Matt motor is REQUIRED in the circuits we have shown. Run on the correct voltage it pulses at the frequency we want. I keep saying this is not rocket science, but you DO have to pull your head out and listen to what we say once in a while.

By the way,doesanyone KNOW what that correct frequency is for Lead Acid batteries? Or have you all just been bobbing around in the dark taking your best shot at having anything that works. Research. It is amazing what researchers USED to know that we have all forgotten.
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Last edited by Turion; 07-11-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:49 PM
liber63 liber63 is offline
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Hi Dave!
You are so right about the right frequency. As far as I remember the right frequency for lead acid bats would be around 100 hertzs. But it's a long time since I 've read that. I may be wrong. So at 2600 rpm/60, x 2 pulses per revolution, with Matt' s motor = around 100. Am I right?
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:05 PM
NROC NROC is offline
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Battery Impedance

Dave has made a really important point about battery impedance here.

If any of you actually want to understand why pulse charging batteries is so useful look up something called Randles model of batteries. The point is that you have 3 to 4 components that the model uses to describe a battery.

Two resistors and a capacitor

Just watch this 4 minute video of it being explained as its easier to understand than reading it here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy1xhi4KDrM

Some versions of the model include an inductor as well. In electrical engineering this set of components looks a bit like a filter and if you sweep the frequency response of it you will find that the impedance of this set of components changes depending on the frequency.

There are 3 important parts for us with impedance spectra - the part where the capacitance dominates, the part where the inductance dominates and the part where the impedance goes to minimum (not zero) just the lowest possible value it can have. Sometimes this minimum impedance can net you an extra 10 maybe even 20% better charge acceptance than you would get by just using straight DC. For lithium ion batts straight dc charging and pulsed charging have roughly the same efficiency of around 85% charge efficiency. For lead acid batteries it can be quite alot better than straight dc charging. (Dont ever use HV pulses on a lithium ion battery as you will destroy it, make sure you use high current pulses at around 14.4V.)

The thing with short transient voltage impulses is that they are made up of a large amount of different frequencies that can go through a system, and they can do all sorts of interesting stuff for lead acid batteries. In engineering we would call this shock excitation of a lead acid battery, it doesn't just ring a single frequency in the battery it rings all of them coupled with how many times you pulse it. If you have a little time between impulses it gives time for the charges to be dispersed back into the electrolyte. You don't need to invoke 'radiant spikes' and all the other nonsense I have heard about these systems. Radiant spikes give completely the wrong impression about the process. I'm not saying that an electrical system couldn't pull energy in from outside but when its used for batteries like this you don't need it.

Understanding batteries should be really important to anyone who is actually serious about getting these types of systems to work

3bgs with Matts Motor and Daves gen, Tesla switch, Basic free energy device, Benitez, SG and others

Since improving the charging efficiency of a lead acid battery is useful to be able to get extended run times you should really know about it and use it all the time.
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Last edited by NROC; 07-14-2019 at 09:40 PM. Reason: spelling and grammar
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  #4830  
Old 07-15-2019, 04:29 AM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NROC View Post
If any of you actually want to understand why pulse charging batteries is so useful look up something called Randles model of batteries. The point is that you have 3 to 4 components that the model uses to describe a battery.

the impedance of this set of components changes depending on the frequency.
IMPEDANCE: The difference between success and failure with the 3 Battery system. FREQUENCY: How fast the motor needs to turn to give the battery the correct pulse. If you add the boost module so the pulses hitting the charge battery are 14.5 volts, it allows you to run the modified Matt motor and recover better than 80% of the energy you used by charging battery 3. If you turn a lenz free, magnetic drag free generator, and make up for your losses, the rest is yours to do with as you will. A three coil generator will MORE than prove the point. You don't have to replicate my big machine. Bob French and I are working on a little prototype that he will show you when it is done. I am still working on getting my bigger machine put back together between remodeling projects. Probably another week before that happens.
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