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Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here.

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  #451  
Old 03-26-2012, 08:54 PM
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clueless,
I would give Matt's circuit a try. If you can't figure it out, we'll help you. If you get the spec sheet on the MJL21194 it shows the base, collector and emitter.
The base goes to the 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. The emitter goes to the 1 ohm 100 watt resistor, and the collector goes to the plus on batt 3 and then over to the other end of the 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. On the Transistor the three prongs are B C E. Hope that helps, and that I haven't screwed those directions up.

Dave
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  #452  
Old 03-26-2012, 09:50 PM
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Dave have you tried this circuit yet ? The only thing I do not have on hand is the wire wound 1 ohm resistor. They are pretty big if I remember correctly.

After reading your post a few times again I see where instead of 2 good batteries, you could have four so that 2 could always be running the motor
at a constant rate, but this would involve more switching of the good
batteries. That way it would be more similar to the South African device.
I hope this makes sense or am I just misunderstanding it.

I wish I had more time to work on this now, but will probably have to leave within the next few days.

George
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  #453  
Old 03-26-2012, 09:55 PM
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FRC,
I haven't tried it yet, but Matt certainly has, and I talked to him on the phone this morning for quite a while. I know him well enough to know that if he says it works, I would bet the farm it does. He has nothing to gain by steering us down the wrong path, and he's pretty happy with his setup. I expect he may post here soon, but he's busy, so you never know.

I also had to order the wire wound resistors, so won't have one up and running until they get here. I might try it with a standard resistor if I can find one in my box that matches those specs until the ones I have ordered come in.

Dave
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  #454  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:07 PM
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Who knows, someone else could have used the information here and improved
upon it but kept it to themselves. At least Matt is not hiding anything and is
helping this thing along with his findings. And we all benefit !

George
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Last edited by FRC; 03-27-2012 at 03:21 AM.
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  #455  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:30 PM
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Pot across battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by clueless View Post
But why can't you use a pot across bat 3? Seems like doing that will "balance" the load to the motor more easily. Taking it a step farther instead of across bat 3 why couldn't you install it between the negatives of bat 3 and bat 1 with diodes to block draining bat 1? Just asking.
Seems like if that will work it will help to keep the running bats charged.
Regardless if a pot works to balance the motor could you control the motor's speed? If so then hooking up an AC generator to the motor seems simple to me. Or maybe you could connect the generator directly and leave the motor out?
Just some wild random thoughts.
I am probably going have to wait until next week when I get paid to set up my own system.
I'm really tickled that so many are actually trying something that seems to work and is something I can visualize and follow along with and feel confident I can duplicate. So many threads here are way over my head.
Thanks again guys.
Hi Clueless,

Sure, you can use a 100-watt rheostat. I found some on ebay that are 2 ohms at 100-watts. I'm going to order a couple of these and a couple other values as well... Once you find the right value you may want to replace the rheostat with a fixed resistor though I don't know that it would be necessary...

@MATT,

Thanks for a great circuit! I'll have mine running soon...

Cheers,

Luther
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  #456  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:41 PM
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First, huge thanks to Matt for sharing the circuit!! Great work

I need to order the MJL's and some resistors, so it might be a little bit before I can replicate this, and I am really looking forward to seeing some results posted on it! I did a lot of testing with this system in the last few days, but nothing very exciting to report. I am working on converting some SLA's to alum batteries, and plan on using them exclusively with this system, for both good and bad batteries.
The first battery I converted has at least one bad cell, and still wont hold a charge. It works great in the 3BGS though, and will likely be my B3 until I find a bigger one that works just as well.
Looking forward to seeing where all this goes, and how it progresses!

N8
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Last edited by Neight; 03-26-2012 at 10:41 PM. Reason: I do have some 2n3055's laying around I could try this with, but I am still in need of the resistors.
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  #457  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boguslaw View Post
Ok, now I think we can replace bad battery with a large capacitor, but custom made. Follow Tesla patent 567818. Just metal plates in concentrated salt solution.
Doesn't seem to be any difference between that patent and todays Aluminum Electrolyte capacitor.

I would first suggest learning how to properly destroy the battery you have availible.

The battery I am running the system off of is a 1100 CCA battery for a catepiller tractor. It was used for 8 years and died one winter after no activity for about 6 months.
The PH is Normal the Hydrometer does not give a reading, the battery holds about 3.5 volt standing and droips to nothing with 1 ohm resistor for a load.

The primary batts are 1500 cca Interstates tractor batteries
I'll also tell ya I am using a Razor Scooter Motor for both the motor and generator (Coming soon).
This is the 1 ohm 100 watt resistor but ceramic, but this is the equavalent
I have 1/0 wire with copper connectors to everything and real short leads to the motor/generator, and all copper connectors.

The motor free wheeling runs at 1.1 amp.

Matt
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  #458  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:42 PM
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clueless

The two motors I tried when doing the 2BGS that did not work had a 2 speed
(low/fast) switch on them. I did splice in above the one on the still intact fan
but this did not help either. I just thought I should mention this after re-reading
your last post about the pot to control the speed of the motor. Oh yes, and
after checking good battery 1 after about a 12 hour rest it is sitting slightly
higher than when I first did that last run.

George
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Last edited by FRC; 03-26-2012 at 10:53 PM.
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  #459  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:44 PM
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FRC,
Well, it's all out in the open. Now we just need a bunch of people to replicate and report in. I don't THINK Matt worried at all about balancing the loads with the setup he has, so it may work well enough that balancing is not an issue. I won't know until I get one up and running and see what it can do.

What completely baffles me is that we have such a simple setup that everybody who has tried it is getting positive results, and yet the vast majority of folks are just overlooking this. SO few people on the forum have even commented here. Either we have boatloads of lurkers, or we are being totally ignored. But it will be difficult to ignore when we have a few more working systems.

One thing Matt did say is he is using HUGE wires to connect his batteries...0 gauge if I am not mistaken, which is TWICE as thick as the #6 wire I am using for my setup. I may have to make my own by combining 2 number sixes stripped, put together, and wrapped with electrical tape.

He and I also talked about the fact that the LENGTH of the wire could make a difference and once I have a setup running I will experiment with increasing the lengths of the wire, possibly even coiling some to see if that affects output.

SO this is it guys. I think you have everything you need to build a successful setup. We should keep posting here and sharing info in case somebody comes up with something amazing to contribute.

I plan on getting Matt's schematic up and running and then seeing if I can still run large loads on Battery 3 and on the motor by balancing. I think a larger motor might produce spikes that are too high for the MJL, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Dave
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  #460  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:11 PM
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schematic please

hi guys,

Luther sent me over here, which post has the schematic you are using ?

Tom
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  #461  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
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hi guys,

Luther sent me over here, which post has the schematic you are using ?

Tom
Its post # 447

George
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  #462  
Old 03-27-2012, 03:37 AM
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Thanks Matt for posting ur result and circuit. I can't wait to replicate, if I can find the parts , it's very hard to get transistors, resistors etc exactly having the same specs here in the Philippines

Anyways here the video uploads

the 3bat system test2 shows eratic reading behavior from my meters, this one is the burned 12 volt motor. bat1 and bat2 voltage is 11.82v, after shutting it off the meter read 11.52. but after 10 min. bat1 and bat2 recovered the gained voltage 12.05.


3bat system test2 - YouTube

3bat system test3 again shows unstable readings using digital meters if and only if I use the small 12 volt motor. its standing voltage is 12.05 now

3bat system test3 - YouTube

2Bat system test1, I've tried last night the 2 bat system, and it work wonderfully I tested it using 2 3volt motors, and the same effect happened
I think to make this effect happen the total voltage of bat1 and bat2 should be the same as your running motor. if bat1 and bat2 has a total of 12 volts then run it with a 12 volt motor or lesser. More CEMF is collected because the rpm is maximized using smaller motors. more CEMF is fed to the system. That's just thought though, I'm no expert just sharing

2bat system test1 - YouTube

@ Turion, the wires I'm using is I think Iron Wires, is a speaker wire I bought a long time ago, just wanted to use different materials for the conductors, I'm not using copper at the moment, I don't know if it helps but I'm just playing with the system. hoping something useful might pop and share with this forum.
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  #463  
Old 03-27-2012, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boguslaw View Post
Ok, now I think we can replace bad battery with a large capacitor, but custom made. Follow Tesla patent 567818. Just metal plates in concentrated salt solution.
Dont know if this was "a winner" but I'll post for your consideration
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  #464  
Old 03-27-2012, 01:04 PM
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Sanskara316

Glad to see that the 2BGS worked for you. I was afraid that it might not work
for other people since I was only able to get it to work with one of the three
motors I tried. As I said before, this would work well for just producing lighting
for free. It did not work that well with the halogen bulb (brightness) but if you
used leds or a cfl or led bulb hooked up to a jt circuit it would work great. I
have a 12v adapter that can be adjusted to smaller voltages, and am pretty
sure I could run my 1.5 fuji circuit quite well off it using a cfl or 120v led bulb
with it. Also a circuit from a scanner should work as well to run a CFL or led
bulb since some of these run on 12 volts. I did have two scanner circuits that worked
really well on 12 volts to light cfl's or led bulbs. Unfortunately I shorted them out
and ruined them. I still have a couple more old scanners that could be taken apart
for their circuits.

George
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Last edited by FRC; 03-27-2012 at 01:12 PM.
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  #465  
Old 03-27-2012, 01:12 PM
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FRC,
With the motors that didn't work, did you try flipping the two motor connection wires? I have found that the brush placement in some DC motors doesn't allow them to work in one direction, but does in the other. Hope that works for you as well, and it is not something about those motors, like an internal electrical component.

David
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  #466  
Old 03-27-2012, 01:39 PM
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Dave, I was going to try that but ended up getting distracted and forgot to try it.
If I try the 2BGS again I will try it. I still prefer the 3BGS since it is more
robust and has more potential.

George
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  #467  
Old 03-27-2012, 01:53 PM
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All,
I haven't gotten Matt's new schematic built yet, and it will be a couple days before I get the resistors I ordered, although I am off to the electronics store today to see if they have anything in stock (FAT chance!).

Sooooo, I don't know what this change in the schematic does to what I believe is the generative power of the motor and the ability of the system to run loads (in balance) off both the motor AND battery three. Frankly, I would settle for the power to run the motor for FREE as Matt has done. Wouldn't you? That would be an incredible achievement, and one that will rock the world.

But I also do not want to lose sight of the fact that the original system ran amazing loads off of the motor AND battery three. To me that is kind of the "Gold Standard" which we may never, ever achieve. Don't know if the new schematic will do that, but does it really matter? The really exciting part for me is that this gives us a couple different directions to go. Develop what Matt has given us which we KNOW works, and still research to see if we can replicate the original. A bird in the hand is worth a whole flock in the bush, and many of us have been chasing the free energy fairy through the forest for years with nothing to show for it but pixy dust in our pockets instead of the gold coins that used to be there. I could not be happier or more excited, and I'm so appreciative of all of you who have put time and effort into this, and especially Matt for sharing what he came up with.

Dave
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  #468  
Old 03-27-2012, 03:03 PM
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Dave

Thanks to you too for sharing this with us. I find it also strange that there are
not more people trying this. There are so many others endlessly working on
different complicated circuits and devices that require very precise standards
in order to work. And here is something that offers a lot of latitude and ease
to make operate, at least to some extent. Also this is looking like it could be
close to the "holy grail" of free energy everyone is looking for, and yet it is
being overlooked. When will more people start taking notice?

George
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  #469  
Old 03-27-2012, 03:45 PM
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the last developments sound really interesting.
I have tried two identical 12 to 18 Volt dremel tools. connected them very simply by putting a drill in one of the chucks and clamping the other chuck to it. I never could get more than 7 to 8 volts out of the one that ran as a generator. It lit up my car lamp though, so there must have been some current. what is the output Voltage you are getting on your generator side? Can you charge both primary batts at once?
Will try the idea to drain the dead battery first. And if I can get a decent motor I will try Matts system, too.

I have tried a Bedini run off the two positives and it charged a fourth battery nicely while not putting too much of a drain on the primaries. Have not done any measurements yet.
This is really interesting!

Great work and happy experimenting

Albert
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  #470  
Old 03-27-2012, 05:17 PM
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Davids Setup

Hey guys

As promised a video of the setup I am running. I will post a follow up video after a 5 hour test. This one has been running since 11:00 am this morning and I will run it till 4 pm. By the time the video uploads it will be around 6 pm my time.

I left switch off but I am sure now it needs it. The voltages are dropping a bit more than I would like to see but the batteries still may recover completly.

Also the resistor is 1/2 ohm 200 watt (2 1 ohm 100 watt in parrallel).

I will try to get a back charge system built sometime over the weekend and show you how you can back charge the batteries, and still run a load. Right now I am burning all the extra power from the generator off. Which is OK considering I ran last night 3.5 hours and lost onlt 1/100 out of 1 battery. That very well may be temprature related.

Like I said I'll post follow up later.

Enjoy
Matt
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  #471  
Old 03-27-2012, 05:18 PM
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ooops

Forgot the link to the video

Davids 3 batt system_Straight Setup - YouTube

Matt
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  #472  
Old 03-27-2012, 05:56 PM
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Thanks Matt!!!

As Hannibal Smith used to say " I love it when a plan comes together."
(That's for you closet A-Team fans out there)

Dave
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  #473  
Old 03-27-2012, 06:13 PM
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Any Face Or Mr T quotes Dave ? Just kidding. Yes it looks good. Those
batteries look like the one big bad battery that I have. Great setup Matt.

George
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  #474  
Old 03-27-2012, 06:41 PM
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FRC

Quote:
Originally Posted by FRC View Post
Any Face Or Mr T quotes Dave ? Just kidding. Yes it looks good. Those
batteries look like the one big bad battery that I have. Great setup Matt.

George
Mr T. "I pity the fool"
Face ...I have no idea
Howling Mad Murdoc..I'm a blank
I collect old TV series as a hobby, so I have all these episodes of stuff I haven't seen since I was a kid. Some day when I can no longer crawl down the stairs to my workshop in the basement, I'll sit around on my butt and watch them all. Right now I get in a couple hours of old TV shows every morning while I walk on my wife's treadmill. (I'm trying to kill it so I can get the motor!)

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  #475  
Old 03-27-2012, 07:44 PM
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2motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanskara316 View Post
Thanks Matt for posting ur result and circuit. I can't wait to replicate, if I can find the parts , it's very hard to get transistors, resistors etc exactly having the same specs here in the Philippines

Anyways here the video uploads

the 3bat system test2 shows eratic reading behavior from my meters, this one is the burned 12 volt motor. bat1 and bat2 voltage is 11.82v, after shutting it off the meter read 11.52. but after 10 min. bat1 and bat2 recovered the gained voltage 12.05.


3bat system test2 - YouTube

3bat system test3 again shows unstable readings using digital meters if and only if I use the small 12 volt motor. its standing voltage is 12.05 now

3bat system test3 - YouTube

2Bat system test1, I've tried last night the 2 bat system, and it work wonderfully I tested it using 2 3volt motors, and the same effect happened
I think to make this effect happen the total voltage of bat1 and bat2 should be the same as your running motor. if bat1 and bat2 has a total of 12 volts then run it with a 12 volt motor or lesser. More CEMF is collected because the rpm is maximized using smaller motors. more CEMF is fed to the system. That's just thought though, I'm no expert just sharing

2bat system test1 - YouTube

Thanks Sanskara for sharing. Two motors in series? Interesting that you've said regarding matching total voltage.
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Last edited by Guruji; 03-27-2012 at 07:49 PM.
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  #476  
Old 03-27-2012, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
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Dont know if this was "a winner" but I'll post for your consideration
Electrolytic would be fine if they could stand voltage spikes up to 10kV. Do you know any ? Of course we don't know any such and this is by purpose I think.... The problem with Tesla condensers is they are for kV but also not much capacitance. However I bet there is a way to join Tesla condenser with what we have in electrolytic capacitors and create one which has high capacitance and suitable for HV spikes. Ideal to store radiant energy in high amounts. Anyway, back to the topic...
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:29 AM
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@Guruji Yup their in series, I needed a 6 volt motor, because in the 2bat system only bat1 supplies the voltage of 6 volts, that's why I decided to put 2 3volt motors in series, it gives out its maximum rpm, and my meters run wild in this configuration, but loading a higher spec motor don't give that effect. Just sharing my observations
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  #478  
Old 03-28-2012, 12:37 AM
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@FRC yeah thanks It worked really well, I'll try to put loads in bat3 and load on the motors, there's so many things we could try in this system, I really hope Matt's circuit works, If that happen will all be free from the grid forever.
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  #479  
Old 03-28-2012, 12:57 AM
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interesting thread! I just watched the intro video. "the friend" operating his. wow. does that come with an operators manual?

bizzare effect indeed.

@FRC you say you burnt out your cfl circuits? i recently did a 6V 300mA ac adapter 555 oscillator that worked quite nicely and should provide you with good cfl lighting on this unit, if in fact your scanner driver was of the right load, etc. no costly parts no centre tap needed. less juice than the scanner circuits too, if i recall they were about 300 mA. I wonder if you could somehow create iron plates to build a stable "dead battery" replacement, high impedence using SO2 binds in monodentate fashion that'd kind of look like a bob boyce cell when you were done.
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Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P

Last edited by kcarring; 03-28-2012 at 01:11 AM.
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  #480  
Old 03-28-2012, 01:06 AM
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It works. You can count on that. We just need a better switch than the MJL's to handle the spikes. Mosfetts will do that, so I'm sure you can expect something from Matt the first chance he gets. I'll be trying it myself tomorrow, since I have a box of Mosfetts sitting there doing nothing and time on my hands. We shouldn't be waiting around for Matt, we should be trying things on our own and providing HIM with information so he has better ideas which directions to look. So order yourselves some big resistors and a few Mosfetts and join the party.

I have this bad habit of copying and pasting bits of information under topic headings in my files and I ran across this piece of info off the forum. I keep thinking about how it would apply here or COULD be applied here..
"What i wanted to do was take advantage of the inductive spike because it does not seem to loose strength as it travels through a conductor unlike normal hot current. I also noticed that depending on the load after the extra inductor, dictates how much current is generated in that inductor. The other thing to think about is, the extra inductor now also produces it's own inductive spike from the main inductive spike without any waste. When the main spike creates a dipole across the coil in series with the charge battery, current flows, creating a magnetic field in the extra coil. The spike is a very fast pulse with a nice sharp off so there is time for the field to collapse creating another spike and it seems to be free of charge because the charge battery sees all of it as if the inductor was never there "

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 03-28-2012 at 01:19 AM.
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