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  #4591  
Old 02-15-2019, 11:35 PM
Iamnuts Iamnuts is offline
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New to me.

Apparently these have been around for a long time but they're ne to me.
They look to have a lot of good points, really impressive is the number of
cycles and fast charge ability.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lith...tanate_battery.
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  #4592  
Old 02-16-2019, 03:34 PM
Iamnuts Iamnuts is offline
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Impressive.

Wow! I could hardly believe this, could it be true?

1. Extremely Long Lifetime

As discussed above, the advanced nanotechnology consisting of lithium-titanate nanocrystals and their increased surface area are especially designed to enhance the lifetime of these batteries. With an over 30 times larger surface area, this technology is able to recharge substantially faster than its more traditional alternative, the Li-Ion battery. The cycle count of a Lithium Titanate battery is 20,000 in comparison of only 2000 in a regular lithium battery, marking a revolutionary approach to energy storage.
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  #4593  
Old 02-16-2019, 03:38 PM
Iamnuts Iamnuts is offline
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Second attempt

Chart

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1550331454
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File Type: jpg C9E34A81-2D28-4644-837C-3033D435F4DB.jpg (149.2 KB, 18 views)
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  #4594  
Old 02-17-2019, 11:58 AM
Iamnuts Iamnuts is offline
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Example.

Someone who hasn't got a clue.

https://youtu.be/mzSvCHrKH2U
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  #4595  
Old 02-17-2019, 02:45 PM
RAMSET RAMSET is offline
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a very cool fellow

Over here post number 98
Alexkor Air Core Coil Radiant Charger

Experimenter and builder Skywatcher is pursuing what seems to be
a gain mechanism with similar format albeit unique to the claimant .

as always I will remove this post if too off topic

respectfully submitted
Chet K
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Last edited by RAMSET; 02-17-2019 at 03:10 PM.
  #4596  
Old 02-17-2019, 10:46 PM
Iamnuts Iamnuts is offline
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Thank you.

Thank you Chet,
I’ve been following this topic since about the end of 2008.
I don’t think there’s been much,if any, progress since then.
Skywatcher seems to share the idea of pulse changing to the 16v. mark.
I believe the idea is that,with a series of pulses, the higher voltage can be
applied without over heating the electrolyte and “boiling “ it off.
I found that LTO. battery had an anode with crystals that had a surface
area of around 100 sq.mtr. per gram compared to a normal li-ion which
had 3 sq.mtr. per gram.
Domestic storage starts to look feasible when you’re going to get 20+ years
life from a battery coupled with dramatic increases in the performance of
solar panels.
I would very much like it if someone could show me where there’s some
documented evidence for running LA’s at higher voltages. Even if it did work
I would imagine it would be impractical because of the time factor.
John.
PS. I was trying to think of a word and it’s just come to me. “Empirical “
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  #4597  
Old 02-18-2019, 02:23 AM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Hello All,

I have did tons of testing this weekend on my battery's and feel like I have got everything very close to being calibrated to spec.

My first test was with 1.5v D-Cell batteries. In the 3 battery setup I did charge a D-Cell battery just fine and tested it before and after with a battery load tester. It worked! The other batteries did drain of course but it worked.This is the tester I used to verify my results:



I could not hold the tester and take a pic at the same time so you will just have to trust me lol.

My test I am currently running is a load test on what will be my battery to charge on the 3bgs setup. I am running a 20 hour C-20 test.

Here is a pic of the DC load tester please notice it is at around 0.250ma



This is because I added an automatic shutoff circuit to kill the test at 10.5 volts and there is around a 100ma draw with that circuit.



Here is the true current from the battery.



Everything is in spec with theses tests. I am also logging the test battery's voltage.

Lots more to come.

-Altrez
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  #4598  
Old 02-18-2019, 06:58 AM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Talk to Bob French

We know from experience that you want to have voltage higher than the battery to charge it, (a dit over 16 volts is what I set my charging at most of the time, but you can use high voltage at NOT amps or milliamps, but microamps to achieve that charging, as long as you PROPERLY PULSE the batteries.
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  #4599  
Old 02-18-2019, 10:34 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Hello,

My test went well on the 1 battery. It matched everything perfectly. Now I am going to let it rest 24 hours and start the 3 battery test.



-Altrez
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  #4600  
Old 02-21-2019, 02:34 AM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Hello Everyone,

I am very close to my 3 battery test. I have setup my Fluke connect logging, my usb logging and my mooshiemetter logging. Its all been tested 14 different ways.

The 2 battery's are as charged as I can get them and I am only waiting for a few more meters to come in tomorrow to start the test.

One thing that i have found interesting is that I tested the split on the 3bs with my Analyzer and it showed this:



That's basically saying that there is less then 40% battery capacity on the split. However it does show the very heavy resistance with the dead battery 3 in place. It will be interesting to see how long it goes before the 10.5 shut off and whats the final charge on battery 3.

-Altrez
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Last edited by altrez; 02-21-2019 at 02:41 AM.
  #4601  
Old 02-22-2019, 02:52 AM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Hello,

The pretests are still going on lol. I am testing the logging with the moooshimeter and verifying its readings with other meters to make sure its close.





As you can see it looks to me almost perfect with my clamp meter.

I am also testing for heat and I am finding nothing over loaded but my hot hand print left on the table as you can see from my Flir igm amp clamp.



I am getting close to my first 3 battery test that I have ever fully logged. I have tested the 3 battery system 100's of times but I have never logged every aspect of the test. So this time I am going to try to do just that.

-Altrez
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  #4602  
Old 02-23-2019, 02:05 AM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Hello All,

I have started my logging test on the 3 battery system.





We will see how it goes. The plan is to run it down to 10.5 volts and let that charged battery rest 24 hours and then test it.

-Altrez
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  #4603  
Old 02-23-2019, 01:11 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Good Morning Everyone,

The test has ended. The voltage on the split hit 10.5 volts around the 9 hour mark. I am still going over the logs but what I can tell so far is this. The battery in the 3rd position continued charging and gaining voltage until the shut off.

The battery Analyzer was pretty much spot on about the health of the split positive test if you go back and look it shows around a 44% capacity in my test. And that just about how long it took to hit 10.5 volts on the cut off.

This is what I have learned from this test.

1. There is a high resistance on the split caused by the discharged battery 3.
2. The battery in the 3rd position keeps charging and gaining voltage even when the split has hit below 11 volts.
3. The series battery's lost more voltage then the voltage gain on the charging battery but not by much.

After around 12 hours I am going to retest the battery's and see what they are at after rest.



-Altrez
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Last edited by altrez; 02-23-2019 at 03:25 PM.
  #4604  
Old 02-23-2019, 01:51 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Here is a screenshot of the Fluke data logger for the series battery's:



And here is a screenshot of my USB logger on the charging battery in position 3:



I still have to graph the data from the mooshimeter as well.

-Altrez
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  #4605  
Old 02-24-2019, 07:08 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Hello,

I have been going over all the data I collected with my tests. I find a few things interesting.

First here is the before and after tests on the Split the Positive:

Before


After


Next here is the tests on the battery in the 3rd position, the charging battery:

Before


After


The charging battery defiantly got a charge. And the Split+ shows dead as I would expect.

Now I also tested each battery in the series to see the energy drain on them:

Here is battery 2:

Before


After


Here is battery 3:

Before


After


The series battery's did discharge as I would expect right now it seems like I am just shuffling energy around the system. With that being said I still need to factor in the load that ran the whole time.

-Altrez
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Last edited by altrez; 02-24-2019 at 07:34 PM.
  #4606  
Old 02-26-2019, 07:58 PM
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hherby hherby is offline
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Circuit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by altrez View Post

The test has ended. The voltage on the split hit 10.5 volts around the 9 hour mark. I am still going over the logs but what I can tell so far is this. The battery in the 3rd position continued charging and gaining voltage

-Altrez
Hi Altrez,
What circuit did you use for this test?
What was the load?
Did you use boost converter(s) in the circuit?

Thanks,
Alex
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  #4607  
Old 02-26-2019, 10:05 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hherby View Post
Hi Altrez,
What circuit did you use for this test?
What was the load?
Did you use boost converter(s) in the circuit?

Thanks,
Alex
Hello Alex,

I did not use a circuit with this test and for the load I used a DC load tester and no boost converters this time.

The goal was to test just the 3 battery's this run with nothing added. It went good the next test is coming up with the boost converters.



-Altrez
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  #4608  
Old 02-26-2019, 10:08 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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To All,

Would anyone happen to have the most current copy of the 3 battery and 1 battery schematic?

Thanks!

-Altrez
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  #4609  
Old 02-26-2019, 11:00 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Circuits

Do you want them with or without the boost converter.
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  #4610  
Old 02-27-2019, 12:01 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Do you want them with or without the boost converter.
Hello Turion,

Hope you are doing well! I would like them both please.



-Altrez
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  #4611  
Old 02-27-2019, 05:47 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Schematics

Here's a schematic of the two ways to hook up the 3 battery setup, with and without the boost module.

The single battery setup also requires a boost module, but we are no longer really talking about that setup. the boost module, without everything else being PERFECT begins the process with too much loss at the very beginning to overcome and give you what you want. You would be far better off working with the 3 battery system using a PULSE motor to run a generator and return SOME of that generator output back to the system.

In the attached drawing if you want to run it without the boost module, eliminate everything in green, and attach the two red lines designated by the arrows to each other.


EDIT: In the 3 battery system you are running the boost module BETWEEN THE POSITIVES so not as much loss as the single battery circuit where it is run DIRECTLY OFF THE ONLY BATTERY/
Attached Images
File Type: bmp boost.bmp (1.17 MB, 74 views)
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Last edited by Turion; 02-28-2019 at 04:21 AM.
  #4612  
Old 02-27-2019, 10:12 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Here's a schematic of the two ways to hook up the 3 battery setup, with and without the boost module.

The single battery setup also requires a boost module, but we are no longer really talking about that setup. the boost module, without everything else being PERFECT begins the process with too much loss at the very beginning to overcome and give you what you want. You would be far better off working with the 3 battery system using a PULSE motor to run a generator and return SOME of that generator output back to the system.

In the attached drawing if you want to run it without the boost module, eliminate everything in green, and attach the two red lines designated by the arrows to each other.
Thank you so much for posting this. I am going to do a few more basic tests then start on my pulse motor.



-Altrez
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  #4613  
Old 02-28-2019, 01:28 PM
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Pulse motor

There is more than one way to build a pulse motor. You could use a 555 timer to pulse a stock motor. You will need to drive a second motor as a generator or have SOME kind of generator attached so you have usable power. Otherwise you really are just turning a motor that is doing nothing.
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  #4614  
Old 02-28-2019, 11:13 PM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
There is more than one way to build a pulse motor. You could use a 555 timer to pulse a stock motor. You will need to drive a second motor as a generator or have SOME kind of generator attached so you have usable power. Otherwise you really are just turning a motor that is doing nothing.
Hello Turion,

I have had some success pulsing a stock motor. I have not been able to capture the collapsing charge into the source battery really. Is there a trick to it?

Thanks!

-Altrez
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  #4615  
Old 02-28-2019, 11:25 PM
Iamnuts Iamnuts is offline
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Goal.

This is where you need to aim!

This generator will put out between 1600-1800 watts. My bigger machine will put out between 1800-2000 watts. Input to this machine, run by an MY1020 rewound razor scooter motor is less than 300 watts. Of that 300 watts, the 3 Battery circuit that no one believes works can recover about 70%.

John.
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  #4616  
Old 02-28-2019, 11:55 PM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by altrez View Post
Hello Turion,

I have had some success pulsing a stock motor. I have not been able to capture the collapsing charge into the source battery really. Is there a trick to it?

Thanks!

-Altrez
If you do not know how to use a diode bypass circuit you have never built a monopole energizer. Diode Bypass for inductive loads. Learn!!!

Matt
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  #4617  
Old 03-01-2019, 02:01 AM
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altrez altrez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
If you do not know how to use a diode bypass circuit you have never built a monopole energizer. Diode Bypass for inductive loads. Learn!!!

Matt
Matt,

Thank you for the input, I will continue to study.



-Altrez
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  #4618  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:03 PM
Diplomacy Diplomacy is offline
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I have been reading this thread again and using the search function to find references to this project wherever they are posted in other threads.

It seems that for the modified motor the MY1020 is superior to the MY1016, have either of them ever been used with the modified windings on a continuous basis without burning up eventually?

Is it just a trick of using a 12-14.5 volt differential rather than increasing the voltage, what voltages have you run it at for long periods without burning it up?

Has progress been made on this front?

I am not as interested in the generators, it is good work, but I specifically want the rotational force and have a low torque fairly simple tech application for it (using Tesla turbines made of either CDs for relative chemical inertness for dealing with water and other room temperature fluids and made of hdd platters and metal parts for dealing with gases, instructions already exist elsewhere).

I have money set aside for this project and am going to be committing to a particular build, currently looking at the MY1020 because the predrilled vent holes look like they would be good for forcing air through to keep it a bit cooler.
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Last edited by Diplomacy; 03-01-2019 at 06:44 PM. Reason: grammar
  #4619  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:13 PM
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Turion Turion is offline
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Question

Iamnuts,
That would definitely be the goal I would shoot for. But here’s what I don’t understand about those who doubt I even have a generator that meets those specs.

What is it you don’t believe?
1. That a generator can be built that produces 2000 watts?
2. That it can be turned by a motor running onn24 volts at 12-13 amps (around 300 watts)
3. Or that 70% or better of the 300 watts can be recovered.

I still have not even had the time to move my generator from the old house to the new one, so am still months away from having the time to prove any of this to anyone, but I AM really curious. I DO eventually want to finish my research to see if I can get a core material, probably ferrite, that puts out significant power and still supports the delayed lenz necessary to get the kind of results I was getting with iron cores. As I have stated before, the setup I detailed here absolutely WORKS, but with iron cores, heat becomes an issue after about 30 minutes of running the generator. This prompted me to look at some other things that are now my focus but present a different set of problems. However, I released all this stuff about the generator in hopes others would contribute to helping find the right coil core material. That hasn’t happened, so since no one wants to contribute, I see no need to waste my time proving anything to anybody. There are so few people who actually have the time and money to spend to be successful at this stuff it is sad.
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  #4620  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:27 PM
Diplomacy Diplomacy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
1. That a generator can be built that produces 2000 watts?
2. That it can be turned by a motor running onn24 volts at 12-13 amps (around 300 watts)
3. Or that 70% or better of the 300 watts can be recovered.

I DO eventually want to finish my research to see if I can get a core material, probably ferrite, that puts out significant power and still supports the delayed lenz necessary to get the kind of results I was getting with iron cores. As I have stated before, the setup I detailed here absolutely WORKS, but with iron cores, heat becomes an issue after about 30 minutes of running the generator. This prompted me to look at some other things that are now my focus but present a different set of problems. However, I released all this stuff about the generator in hopes others would contribute to helping find the right coil core material. That hasn’t happened, so since no one wants to contribute, I see no need to waste my time proving anything to anybody. There are so few people who actually have the time and money to spend to be successful at this stuff it is sad.
I might have an answer for you sir, cheap and easy to build

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate

Go all the way down to Step 9:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Mak...gnetic-fields/

Any sizes can be accomplished through additive layers of the ferrite sodium silicate mix, you could even go more exotic and throw in small amounts of the right materials in addition to the iron, graphene, powdered tourmaline, a very tiny amount of bismuth powder, etc.

A mold could be made by hand, a small amount of water and a file is sufficient for working the material.

If it is going to be in a wet or humid environment the outer layer should be covered in a waterproof epoxy or paint or something.

I believe you about your generator.
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