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  #4411  
Old 12-08-2018, 06:48 PM
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Sawt2 Sawt2 is online now
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As I’m rewinding another motor, I’m curious if anyone has experimented with more windings. Would more wire help or hinder? Just a thought.
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  #4412  
Old 12-09-2018, 12:27 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Once

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawt2 View Post
As I’m rewinding another motor, I’m curious if anyone has experimented with more windings. Would more wire help or hinder? Just a thought.
I did try once a thicker awg wire multiple filar. Motor got very hot. But satisfied my unscientific curiosity. If I remember right Matt did try many different windings before finding best one.

But no harm trying it if teaches something.

Just sitting and watching snow/sleet storm with hot coffee. Let us know if you find anything different.

wantomake
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Last edited by wantomake; 12-09-2018 at 03:56 PM.
  #4413  
Old 12-10-2018, 09:58 AM
RAMSET RAMSET is offline
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maybe... just maybe ??

Note
as always i will remove this post in a heartbeat if asked by Matt or Dave
-----------------------------------------

below is for Matt and Dave [and all IMO]

Matts motor ran/runs hot [real hot] ,and has lots of iron


some are starting a Daniel McFarland Cook replication [which will be shared here too in dedicated thread],and trying to source the proper [period correct] iron wire.....Jim Boot shared this link yesterday

Iron Rod - online catalogue source - supplier of research materials in small quantities - Goodfellow

snip from the link
Depending upon the temperature, pure iron can exist in three forms, namely alpha-, gamma- and delta-iron; alpha iron is a polymorphic form of iron which is stable below 906C; it has a body centred cubic lattice (bcc) and is magnetic up to 768C. Gamma iron is a polymorphic form of iron which is stable between 906C and 1403C; it has a face centred cubic lattice (fcc) and is nonmagnetic (n.b. its range of stability is reduced by the presence of carbon, manganese and nickel and it is the basis of the austenite solid solutions). Delta iron is the polymorphic form of iron which is stable between 1403C and the melting point; it has the same lattice structure as alpha iron.
end snip

we also know funny things are happening with heat and other metals [Celani and others work ]

https://www.researchgate.net/publica...h_temperatures
-----------------
to note : Celani work evolving here [and elsewhere]
Hydrogen + metal = surprising reactions without plasmas
------------------

Could there be a gain mechanism associated with this heat and iron at the Micro level and
the wild conditions manifest in Matts motor ??
Domain flipping or manipulation at low power levels has huge potential....

one thing is certain

there is much to learn and there are some really hot experiments on the open source table ATM


respectfully
Chet K
PS to add comment for bystander below
yes these things are self evident ,however Micro reactions or atomic or ?? and "whatifs" must not be ruled out.
not magic thinking just being thorough based on present ever evolving scientific investigation/understanding
.
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Last edited by RAMSET; 12-10-2018 at 04:29 PM.
  #4414  
Old 12-10-2018, 03:21 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Matt modded motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMSET View Post
...
Matts motor ran/runs hot [real hot] ,and has lots of iron
...
Hi Chet,

Matt's modified motor has the same iron as the unmodified motor he starts with. That is not a lot of iron IMO. The modification deals strictly with the winding and commutation. I suspect the excess heat comes from copper loss, not iron. This is measured by I squared R. But I, or current, needs to be an RMS value, not average.

The temperatures you mention are above the Curie point of ceramic magnets and well in excess of the what the winding insulation can tolerate.

Regards,

bi
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  #4415  
Old 12-11-2018, 12:39 AM
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Says it all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ricards View Post
bi,

I think you're being rejected and booted off because you insist that you know better yet you have only tried once.

what are your intentions anyway?. are you here to look at this closely or discredit this?. or just killing time?

what exactly are you trying to point?.
maybe I can answer in a way that can satisfy you.
I think this post says it all.

wantomake
PS: ignore list
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  #4416  
Old 12-14-2018, 10:17 AM
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Progress

I wish I could update you guys on what is going on and where this journey has taken us, but unfortunately I cannot. Some day you will realize that the answers you have all been searching for were in the two major threads we have started here, and that the basic information is all here and was just ignored. You have no idea how many times i have just shaken my head and said "If they only KNEW!" We have some things we intend to do before we show anything more on this thread than we already have, but maybe I can find the time to shoot some video to prove what we have disclosed so far.

I did find an already rewound rotor for a Matt motor, so if I get a little free time over the holiday to put one together, I will try to do that. Then I can run the Matt motor off a fully charged battery, turning a stock motor as a generator and running a light as a load off the generator. I can measure how many watts the generator was able to put out to the light before the battery runs down using a traditional circuit.

Then I can run the Matt motor with our circuit on that same battery, with the boost module in place, and show how many watts went from the generator to the light bulb before the battery runs down. That should be a fair test, and easy to do. It is also far less time consuming that running a three battery baseline and comparing that to running three batteries with our circuit.

Anyway, that's the plan. I have to balance the thing before I put it together, and I have to find the rest of the parts for it, but I have lots of razor scooter motors around here that are in pieces, so that shouldn't take much time. I just need a couple square feet of bench space and right now that's the hardest thing to come by.

I'm still months away from having any real free time, but it may be possible to squeeze in a few things. If I get the shelves built I am hoping to get built this weekend, I will have room to get enough stuff off the floor that maybe I can get one of my generators on a cart over here and start winding coils to get it put back together. I have all the wire, but winding 10 new coils just takes a lot of time, and the ones I have are slag from overheating. So it will take me a while.
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  #4417  
Old 12-14-2018, 01:25 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
....
Then I can run the Matt motor with our circuit on that same battery, with the boost module in place, ...
A humble request, if you don't mind. Please take a scope screenshot of the battery current with and without the boost converter. Thanks in advance.

Regards,

bi
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  #4418  
Old 12-14-2018, 08:55 PM
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Forward

Turion,
Hope is alive with prayer and expectations of good news from you. Yes prayer and hope. I'm happy to just have seen with my own eyes and hands the proof of this concept. Nothing said here can take that from me.

You get done and forget about sending any parts to me. Finish all you've started. Home, shop, project. These are so much more important, which stands without saying.

Take care and will always cherish the 3BGS memories.

wantomake
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  #4419  
Old 12-14-2018, 10:48 PM
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??

Wantomake,
From what you said, it appears you need the whole coil holding apparatus. You said the 3/4 plywood you used warped. I would bet you did not use the PC couplers epoxied in place. If you do that, and put spacers between the plywood, it won't warp. I know this for a fact, because that is the very first build I did to prototype my current build using acrylic plastic. Mine was all glued together, and it was as solid as a rock. I only went to the plastic for the looks, and because I wanted something a machinist could produce. I don't have that original anymore, because I just didn't have the room for all these different versions of the same thing when the new one is better. Well, maybe not BETTER, but way cooler looking at least.
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Last edited by Turion; 12-14-2018 at 11:13 PM.
  #4420  
Old 12-14-2018, 11:13 PM
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True assessment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Wantomake,
From what you said, it appears you need the whole coil holding apparatus. You said the 3/4 plywood you used warped. I would bet you did not use the PC couplers epoxied in place. If you do that, and put spacers between the plywood, it won't warp. I know this for a fact, because that is the very first build I did to prototype my current build using acrylic plastic. Mine was all glued together, and it was as solid as a rock. I only went to the plastic for the looks, and because I wanted something a machinist could produce. I don't have that original anymore, because I just didn't have the room for all these different versions of the same thing when the new one is better.
Yes and mostly the two end brackets holding the bearings in place warped worst.

I was in process of changing the two end pieces from wood to aluminum when stopped working on the project.

Still have all the spacers and parts. Maybe one day will put it all back together again.

Thanks for the tip,
wantomake
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  #4421  
Old 12-16-2018, 06:42 AM
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Parts

Wantomake,

I was over at the old house today getting some things I needed out of my shop, and I noticed a set of bearing blocks lying on the counter. These are "L shaped pieces of solid steel with holes drilled in them for mounting to the bench with screws, and a large hole drilled with the bearing pressed in. I'm not at all sure if the bearings are the correct size and I didn't have time to check today, but if you are interested, I will run over there tomorrow or Monday and check to see if the bearings are the correct size for the shaft that fits the rotor I sent you. That would end your problem with the bearing holder warping, because these definitely won't warp and can be screwed down. The only problem MAY be the hight of the bearing above the bench. They are from an older build, so the hight might not be correct, and you might have to put a spacer under either them or the coil holder to get them to line up at dead center. Anyway, just a thought if you are still thinking about building the generator. You will STILL need more than just one coil to see any positive results, but you would be able to see speed up under load and magnetic neutralization no matter HOW many coils you have.

I quit using these because of the pressed in bearings, and went to a flange bearing that cannot be pulled OUT of the mount because of the flange by continued vibration over time. With powerful neo magnets pulling the rotor toward the stator, pressure is applied to pull the bearing OUT of the mount, and I didn't like the thought of that. It was a safety issue for me. With all the things I have had go WRONG, eliminating every possibility for a problem was something I worked on as I modified my original design time and time again. I NEVER had a pressed in bearing pull out, but I also never had a rotor explode..... until one did. So it's not like I would be giving you something that is defective, and you could certainly replace the bearings with flange bearings or tapered bearings that cannot pull through. It is really JUST the bearing holders I am offering, although the bearings are in them. Just to be clear. I want NO liability if the bearings come out! I have enough stuff to deal with already.

Dave
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Last edited by Turion; 12-16-2018 at 06:54 AM.
  #4422  
Old 12-16-2018, 06:50 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Re-designing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Wantomake,

I was over at the old house today getting some things I needed out of my shop, and I noticed a set of bearing blocks lying on the counter. These are "L shaped pieces of solid steel with holes drilled in them for mounting to the bench with screws, and a large hole drilled with the bearing pressed in. I'm not at all sure if the bearings are the correct size and I didn't have time to check today, but if you are interested, I will run over there tomorrow or Monday and check to see if the bearings are the correct size for the shaft that fits the rotor I sent you. That would end your problem with the bearing holder warping, because these definitely won't warp and can be screwed down. The only problem MAY be the hight of the bearing above the bench. They are from an older build, so the hight might not be correct, and you might have to put a spacer under either them or the coil holder to get them to line up at dead center. Anyway, just a thought if you are still thinking about building the generator. You will STILL need more than just one coil to see any positive results, but you would be able to see speed up under load and magnetic neutralization no matter HOW many coils you have.

I quit using these because of the pressed in bearings, and went to a flange bearing that cannot be pulled OUT of the mount because of the flange by continued vibration over time. With powerful neo magnets pulling the rotor toward the stator, pressure is applied to pull the bearing OUT of the mount, and I didn't like the thought of that. It was a safety issue for me. With all the things I have had go WRONG, eliminating every possibility for a problem was something I worked on as I modified my original design time and time again. I NEVER had a pressed in bearing pull out, but I also never had a rotor explode..... until one did. So it's not like I would be giving you something that is defective, and you could certainly replace the bearings with flange bearings or tapered bearings that cannot pull through. It is really JUST the bearing holders I am offering, although the bearings are in them. Just to be clear. I want NO liability if the bearings come out! I have enough stuff to deal with already.

Dave
Thanks for the offer but not sure as you said if the height of the bearings will match that of my coil holders.

I've been looking at your design and my build and they are different. I'm planning to recut a new set of holders(4) to match your design. The ones I cut don't match good because each is a little different in size.

Yes I do plan on more coils also. This was my first proof of concept. Hope to get to it soon.

Thanks again,
wantomake
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  #4423  
Old 12-20-2018, 01:59 PM
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Holiday Season and generators

Good rainy morning to All,
Coffee, rain and holiday shopping. My daughter asked what I wanted for Christmas. So we finally settled on a spool of mag wire to rewire the larger size my1060 scooter motor as a generator. Good gift I think.

After the holidays wind down I'll be hopefully redesigning and testing like Turion posted.

Time to nuke the coffee or head to breakfast with the wife.
Yes breakfast and good company.

If I keep this thread alive it's because this project is worth the effort.
wantomake
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  #4424  
Old 12-22-2018, 02:24 PM
axxelxavier axxelxavier is offline
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Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
If I keep this thread alive it's because this project is worth the effort.
wantomake
I agree!
Finally, I have some time for my project, so I will post some updates.
I decided to give a try to 3BGS automatic switch project, though I am aware it will be a long and difficult process. My previous system was with 2 batteries and a boost converter, but after some tests in 3BGS configuration, the results was very encouraging.
First step was to create a semiautomatic system for switching the batteries, using for the beginning 4 push-buttons, which will command Arduino to switch 8 relays (12 volt each, actually 3 relays at the time). I am using now just 3 x 5 Amp batteries, and a fourth battery for Arduino and relays.
Well, this is my first result, as you can see also in the video.
https://youtu.be/9iEPh9Jon1w
The system is working, BUT, in one configuration (Battery 2+Battery 3 charging Battery 1) the polarity of the load is changing, so the + pole become „-”.
The only way I find to solve this is to add another 2, maybe 3 relays, which will increase the current draw to 150 - 180 mA... For bigger setups, up to 60 Amp batteries, I think is worthing this current draw. Later, when the system is set, I can use latching relays, and the current draw will be very low. The total current draw, now, at the arduino + 3 relays ON is between 120 mA (at 12 volts) and 100 mA (at 10 volts).
Unfortunately, because of the common ground issue, I cannot use n-mosfets on lower side, nor p-mosfets for high side, and i don't know other way to switch the batteries with a galvanic isolation.
Any suggestion? Is there other way to reverse polarity using discrete components?
Second step is to find a way to isolate the voltage divider resistor readings for sending to Arduino - I cannot use a common ground for those dividers, because of the different configuration of batteries connections.
I was thinking to use optocouplers... what do you think?

Best regards
Attached Images
File Type: jpg _ DSC_0002.jpg (307.7 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg _ DSC_0003.jpg (143.4 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg _ DSC_0005.jpg (193.1 KB, 26 views)
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Last edited by axxelxavier; 12-22-2018 at 04:56 PM.
  #4425  
Old 12-23-2018, 01:12 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Axxel,
Sorry our local ip is down since yesterday. Only my iPhone has connection to internet.
Your setup looks promising but I’ve not used Arduino much yet to switch the system. I did start learning how to program Arduino see the benefit of using such. Dave said the single battery circuit is also very good to work with. That’s if you have motor and generator setup included in the circuit.

Hoping good results for you and Happy holidays,
wantomake
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  #4426  
Old 12-24-2018, 05:44 PM
axxelxavier axxelxavier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Axxel,
...Dave said the single battery circuit is also very good to work with. That’s if you have motor and generator setup included in the circuit.
Hoping good results for you and Happy holidays,
wantomake
I will try also the single battery circuit when I will have a second motor as generator. Main problem for me is the noise - I live with my family in a 2 room apartment, so I cannot run during the night anything noisy... So I HAVE to use something solid state or very silent...
This is my beta version, here:
https://youtu.be/hMYU4_T0DU0
Everyone, Happy Holidays, health, joy, and successful green energy projects!
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  #4427  
Old 12-25-2018, 02:22 AM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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The Box

Axxel,
I like the video even though can't see your build. But I think it's a good start to more exploring and growth.

Had to go back to my bedroom and send this, family wrapping gifts and told me to leave, hahaha.

Anyway I like the build with the box and good looking voltage meters in front.

Holidays and family has kept me out of the shop for now.

Merry Christmas to you, thanks for the video.
wantomake
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  #4428  
Old 12-26-2018, 01:48 AM
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Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post
Thank you Matt,

This is what I've been talking about. The current pulse never reaches the source battery due to the presence of the boost converter. Hence my question: Why did I need to use your modded motor in the 1bgs system which I built and tested?

Like you told me here.




Cheers to you,

bi
I told you effectively the power returned to the smoothing caps after the diode is not drawn from the top battery. The recovered energy is delivered to the charge portion of the battery after rerunning through the motor. This is a plus in total energy recovered. While keeping the motor running at high RPM's. You had a chance to test n this with minimal amount of work and very little financing similar the tests Gotoluc did but you declined it. Why? If you know how everything works and you know so much why then do you refuse to back it up. Why not take a look... Why not back up your poor excuse for a mouth with real data? Its just copper losses after all why not prove it? Its just whatever bull$hit anyone else chalked it up to being. Why not prove it with no cost to yourself.
I know why, cause its easier to talk than to research, and your just one of those kind of people.

None of you can even imagine the possibility in that little circuit.

Matt
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  #4429  
Old 12-26-2018, 05:11 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I told you effectively the power returned to the smoothing caps after the diode is not drawn from the top battery. The recovered energy is delivered to the charge portion of the battery after rerunning through the motor. This is a plus in total energy recovered. While keeping the motor running at high RPM's. You had a chance to test n this with minimal amount of work and very little financing similar the tests Gotoluc did but you declined it. Why? If you know how everything works and you know so much why then do you refuse to back it up. Why not take a look... Why not back up your poor excuse for a mouth with real data? Its just copper losses after all why not prove it? Its just whatever bull$hit anyone else chalked it up to being. Why not prove it with no cost to yourself.
I know why, cause its easier to talk than to research, and your just one of those kind of people.

None of you can even imagine the possibility in that little circuit.

Matt
Gotoluc and Tinman already ran the tests and presented the data which support my position. And there is just one battery. What do you mean by top battery?

I built the one battery circuit just like Turion drew it, tested it and presented the data. I am still waiting for you to do that as you said you would.

Regards and happy holidays,

bi
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  #4430  
Old 12-26-2018, 08:27 PM
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hherby hherby is offline
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Isolated n-Mosfet driver

Quote:
Originally Posted by axxelxavier View Post
...
Unfortunately, because of the common ground issue, I cannot use n-mosfets on lower side, nor p-mosfets for high side, and i don't know other way to switch the batteries with a galvanic isolation.
Any suggestion? Is there other way to reverse polarity using discrete components?
...
Best regards
Hi axxelxavier,
You can use a VOM1271T Photovoltaic MOSFET Driver for high or low side switching in a single or bi-directional setup. See the top of page 5 of this data sheet.
http://www.vishay.com/docs/83469/vom1271t.pdf

Worked great for me. A reasonably cheap way to build your own high power SSR's.

Cheers,
Alex
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  #4431  
Old 12-27-2018, 08:47 AM
axxelxavier axxelxavier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hherby View Post
Hi axxelxavier,
You can use a VOM1271T Photovoltaic MOSFET Driver for high or low side switching in a single or bi-directional setup. See the top of page 5 of this data sheet.URL="http://www.vishay.com/docs/83469/vom1271t.pdf"]http://www.vishay.com/docs/83469/vom1271t.pdf[/URL] Worked great for me. A reasonably cheap way to build your own high power SSR's.
Cheers,
Alex
Hy, Alex.
Thank you for your reply. I don't know much about this driver - I have to search the internet to see if it is capable of switching DC/DC voltage, or to isolate readings from dc voltage.
As far as I know, SSR works only with AC voltage, but right now I am using only DC voltage.
Best regards,
Teodor
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  #4432  
Old 12-27-2018, 08:34 PM
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Data

Bi,
The data Tinman and Luc provided was not from an actual replication. If you think this makes no difference I invite you to spend the year 2019 driving around your washing machine rather than your car
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Last edited by Turion; 12-27-2018 at 08:58 PM.
  #4433  
Old 12-27-2018, 09:35 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Differences

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Bi,
The data Tinman and Luc provided was not from an actual replication. If you think this makes no difference I invite you to spend the year 2019 driving around your washing machine rather than your car
Turion,

What is the difference between what they tested and an actual replication? Why is there no data available for an actual replication? Those of us who know motors and electric circuits believe those tests were representative.



Please explain in detail what the differences would be of a similar scope shot from an actual replication and this one lifted from a video done by gotoluc.

Thanks,

bi
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  #4434  
Old 12-28-2018, 03:39 AM
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Data

Bi,
Those replications were NOT representative of our work. I have covered this MANY times with you. But since I have some free time tonight, I will go over it again. The system we showed was NOT designed to run your house but was only designed to PROVE these concepts work and set people on the correct path. It is a BUNCH of little things that add up to a working system. If any ONE of them is incorrect, it won’t give the proper results.

I will talk about the 3 Battery system first. Problem 1.The batteries used in the “replications” were far too small. Luc was TOLD it wouldn’t work before he even started. His response was that those batteries were all he could afford and if it worked, THEN he would invest in proper batteries. If you go back and look at my comments at the time he started his “testing” you will see my comment as well as his response. Small batteries just have TOO MUCH resistance and we have said that a million times. They WILL NOT WORK.

Problem 2. A modified Matt motor was NOT used. This means the battery that is being charged was not being pulsed at ALL. Even people who use the boost module fail to understand that it pulses at the WRONG frequency. Without the Matt motor you are NOT hitting the 3rd battery with a PROPER charging pulse. It is a mechanical switch that ALSO does work.

Problem 3. A boost module was NOT used which means the voltage hitting the charge battery wasn’t at least 2 volts over the standing voltage of that battery. You can’t charge a 12 volt battery EFFICIENTLY with just 12 volts. And as the battery charges and the voltage in the primary batteries drops LOWER, without the boost module in place you are trying to charge the battery with a LOWER voltage than what is in it.

For ALL these reasons the testing done was NOT a replication of what we have shown. It was CRAP.

Back in the day I posted DOZENS of You tube videos of results of test runs. I pulled everything down at one point when we decided we had shared enough.
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  #4435  
Old 12-28-2018, 05:07 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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No 3bgs

Turion,

I was talking about the Matt modded motor only and the test they did on the motor. I've mentioned a number of times that I don't care about the 3bgs. I replicated your single battery dual boost converter circuit and am interested in that. I was chastised, insulted, and called names because I didn't use a Matt modded motor. I still believe that the boost converter negates any charge pulse from reaching the battery so I want proof that a Matt modded motor can in fact positively affect a single battery through a boost converter per your circuit. The motor tests which tinman and gotoluc ran and posted indicate not, but you and Matt claim it does. So I am asking for evidence. I'd like to see data from you or Matt on that single battery system using two boost converters, or a scope shot of a real Matt modded motor to compare to the one which I posted today.

Regards,

bi
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  #4436  
Old 12-28-2018, 06:41 AM
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Aaron Aaron is offline
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Exclamation Luc Choquette - Gotoluc is a fraudster

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Bi,
Those replications were NOT representative of our work. I have covered this MANY times with you. But since I have some free time tonight, I will go over it again. The system we showed was NOT designed to run your house but was only designed to PROVE these concepts work and set people on the correct path. It is a BUNCH of little things that add up to a working system. If any ONE of them is incorrect, it won’t give the proper results.

I will talk about the 3 Battery system first. Problem 1.The batteries used in the “replications” were far too small. Luc was TOLD it wouldn’t work before he even started. His response was that those batteries were all he could afford and if it worked, THEN he would invest in proper batteries. If you go back and look at my comments at the time he started his “testing” you will see my comment as well as his response. Small batteries just have TOO MUCH resistance and we have said that a million times. They WILL NOT WORK.

Problem 2. A modified Matt motor was NOT used. This means the battery that is being charged was not being pulsed at ALL. Even people who use the boost module fail to understand that it pulses at the WRONG frequency. Without the Matt motor you are NOT hitting the 3rd battery with a PROPER charging pulse. It is a mechanical switch that ALSO does work.

Problem 3. A boost module was NOT used which means the voltage hitting the charge battery wasn’t at least 2 volts over the standing voltage of that battery. You can’t charge a 12 volt battery EFFICIENTLY with just 12 volts. And as the battery charges and the voltage in the primary batteries drops LOWER, without the boost module in place you are trying to charge the battery with a LOWER voltage than what is in it.

For ALL these reasons the testing done was NOT a replication of what we have shown. It was CRAP.

Back in the day I posted DOZENS of You tube videos of results of test runs. I pulled everything down at one point when we decided we had shared enough.

Luc Choquette is a liar, con and charlatan - what do you expect? He has so many people fooled into thinking he is some humanitarian that wants to help the world, but I have the emails proving how greedy he is for money - and for something that he did not contribute to!!



When he was approached by two people asking who invented my plasma ignition circuit, he told them he was the inventor then they filed for a patent - and Luc was well aware that I was the sole inventor. He didn't even understand how it could work and I have all the emails and online posts to prove it - I had to teach him how my method worked.



So, when it comes to real work with any kind of integrity, everyone would be wasting their time thinking that Luc Choquette (gotoluc) is offering anything honest, without an agenda, etc. this is indisputable and I have all the proof in his own words going back 10-11 years!! Luc is a dead end and anyone that keeps pushing the idea that Luc has replicated or shown anything legit probably has a bogus agenda of their own.
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Aaron Murakami

  #4437  
Old 12-28-2018, 10:28 AM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Info

There is a wire from the + output of the boost module to the motor. That is ONE of the wires on the motor. There is a SECOND wire on the motor, which (on the single battery circuit) goes back to the only battery, and in the 3 Battery circuit goes to the charging battery.

The output of the boost module, which is 2 volts over the standing voltage of the battery (that will be CHARGED) goes into the motor and OUT OF THE MOTOR down that SECOND wire, and back into the primary battery, hitting it with a higher voltage charging spike ( because the boost module has raised the voltage) over and over and over, just like a battery charger would do. There is NO boost module on the wire that comes OUT of the motor and goes to the charging battery. The boost module is in the circuit BEFORE the battery.
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  #4438  
Old 12-28-2018, 12:15 PM
wrtner wrtner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
When he was approached by two people asking who invented my plasma ignition circuit, he told them he was the inventor then they filed for a patent - and Luc was well aware that I was the sole inventor.
Apologies if I am missing something here - but surely a visit to the USPTO will sort this out.
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  #4439  
Old 12-28-2018, 02:24 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Charge current

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
There is a wire from the + output of the boost module to the motor. That is ONE of the wires on the motor. There is a SECOND wire on the motor, which (on the single battery circuit) goes back to the only battery, and in the 3 Battery circuit goes to the charging battery.

The output of the boost module, which is 2 volts over the standing voltage of the battery (that will be CHARGED) goes into the motor and OUT OF THE MOTOR down that SECOND wire, and back into the primary battery, hitting it with a higher voltage charging spike ( because the boost module has raised the voltage) over and over and over, just like a battery charger would do. There is NO boost module on the wire that comes OUT of the motor and goes to the charging battery. The boost module is in the circuit BEFORE the battery.
Turion,

For a battery to charge, current must flow into the positive battery terminal. This is true regardless of the charge duration, a microsecond or an hour. Also true, when current flows into the battery positive terminal, it flows out of the battery negative terminal. The description in your post does not account for or explain a path for current from the negative battery terminal to complete the charge circuit.

I will copy and paste a prior post showing the circuits.

Regards,

bi

Quote:
Originally Posted by bistander View Post
This is exactly what I said in post #4359. Guess I need to draw a picture. And this is how Matt has described the charge pulse from his modded motor. The blue arrows represent the intended path of the charge pulse current from the Matt modded motor back to the source battery. However there is a diode inside the boost converter which blocks current in this direction.







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  #4440  
Old 12-28-2018, 05:40 PM
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Drawing

/Users/DVDMacAir/Desktop/bi 1Basic 3 Battery System.jpg

In the basic 3 battery system there is a high voltage on one side and a low voltage on the other. The Matt motor acts as a mechanical switch, momentarily connecting the two, which sends a pulse from the high voltage to the low voltage. This is a charge pulse and the REASON for the Matt motor. What else it may do is a discussion between YOU and Matt, but ANYONE should be able to understand that when you connect a high voltage to a low voltage, the charge will move in a very specific direction. Notice the negatives are tied together.

/Users/DVDMacAir/Desktop/bi Single Batery Circuit.jpg

In the single battery circuit the output of the boost module is the high voltage. Again, the motor acts as a mechanical switch connecting the high voltage to the low voltage momentarily. Notice the negative of the boost module, which is a through connection on the boost module (meaning the input and output negatives are tied together) is connected to the negative of the battery.

This is how battery 3 charges in the 3 battery system and how the single battery in the single battery circuit charges. The Matt motor and LARGE batteries are required for it to work, as is the boost module.

Your discussion with Matt about a pulse returning to the primary battery from the motor has NOTHING to do with the charge circuit and IF that happens it is an additional benefit. I cannot speak to that because I haven't investigated it. I am only concerned with the PRIMARY action here which is charging battery 3 in the 3 battery circuit and charging the single battery in the single battery circuit.
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