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  #4381  
Old 06-24-2019, 01:48 AM
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I really do have these same fears of ceramic glass bullets flying
so it is so critical for me to have the magnet shield on mine. Without
a solid steel shield I would be afraid too. Also I would be afraid of a 5/8"
shaft for such a big rotor. If it was me and had all that money use for
this project the shaft and bearings would be over 1" to cut down on
any play.

you know I have not thought enough about this yet having so many
magnets on a rotor of metals. What went thru my mine was to have
a small distance as shown so if it was a metal rotor the opposition
magnetic fields would not have an effect being so far away.

Leaves you one thing to use, non metal rotor, I can't even find any
plastics that thick yet. Lexan would be so much heavier and you
bearings would need to be bigger is all.

There is composite board just as good as steel, I just can't find it
again. It is a higher temperature rated material.

The other guy is right, aluminum would heat up at 1/8" gap really bad.
The shields also now only safe guard against impact of the ceramic but
could reduce the size of the magnets and you are going to need them
with 24 of them side by side anyway.

If I see that (Oflalic?based composite) special board again I'll point
it out to you down the road. Either way being so close together those
magnets might have overlapping fields without a shield.
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  #4382  
Old 06-24-2019, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Found some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet

I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.
Dang nice find, yer good to go, same price as the link I sent you for 3".

Please consider doing some experiments or just treating the whole
thing as an evolving work. I am going to draw it out in a minute, trying
to think how much space is in between the magnets. Maybe there is
enough so no fields overlap. Boy that would be nice, wouldn't it?

That floppy rotor you sent me? Don't want to hurt your feelings
here. Anyway the system you have works so I think you
should stay with that unless you want to build a few little ones?

The same material as the thin floppy one is excellent and I am a good
of mechanical structures. Or some plastic thick enough, plus the magnets
are long cylinders and have all of that surface area to grab not like
standing up a silver dollar and trying to fasten it with the edge only.

Yet even with only a tiny edge it held pretty good so think of how much
better itis going to be. Safer. Here is the way i think lately on my design.

First I like shields (youknow) and I like press fit and magnets inside
steel sleeves have the advantage. First and foremost steel can be struck
and the ceramic glass inside of it will not crack. My only problem is
I want to attach the sleeves first by press fit and then tack weld those
once centered to the rotor disc. So as a compromise I have threaded
sleeves on the outside that could be tack welded also.

So what? Maybe I could come back over my rotors with a nice plastic
cover to shim up the space? Hum... got me thinking on safety.

Yeah $300 bucks is a lot of Maui Waui It's worth it.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 06-24-2019 at 06:21 AM.
  #4383  
Old 06-24-2019, 06:20 AM
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I will finish later but this is what I wanted to find out.

12" rotor 24 magnets around a 10" circle leaving 1/2" plastic
perimeter = 10" X 3.14 = 31.4" - 24" (the magnets) = 7.4"
left over to evenly space magnets @.308" not enough room
between to keep the fields from overlapping and no room
to come back later to add shields.

Still got 29days left to figure in the math. If you go to a 13" circle
you will have a .57" between so use a 14" rotor, I would say, this
would give you more flexibility in case you had to come back later.

It's yer baby.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/graphrotor.jpg
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Last edited by BroMikey; 06-24-2019 at 06:24 AM.
  #4384  
Old 06-25-2019, 12:16 AM
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I wish the video had analog meters to show the actual voltages before, during and after.
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  #4385  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I have room for more, so I am going to look at that.

Have you built a rotor WITH iron shielding and one WITHOUT iron shielding around the rotor magnets to measure the difference in coil output? I ask because adding iron shielding basically increased the diameter of the rotor magnet which means you can have FEWER magnets on the rotor. If there IS a gain from using magnetic shielding it is going to be x amount per magnet pass times a number of magnets vs a smaller output times a larger number of magnets. Which gives the most output? I don’t know. I really can’t afford to build two rotors to compare the difference.

Also, it doesn’t have to be 24 magnets or 12 magnets. It can be any even numbered amount.
Here is an example of the magnet covers I use to make them impact
resistant. This is the thickness I use and here are the benefits.

$5 per foot

https://mysteelyard.com/product_info...ducts_id=11274

negligible as far as space is concerned. Once in all side projecting
fields are pushed out front where we want it. There are some examples
on youtube where magnet rotors having upperwards of 20 have shields
and magnets4less only has a cheap refrigerator magnet junk pile.

Once pressed in you can and should leave a few thousandths sticking
out then the outer surface of the shield can be wildly ground rough tp
a point of distortion to receive a greater epoxy contact and holding
power. Much better. What is even more important for your application
is that the magnets all having shields would increase the holding power
probably 50%

The most important use is when you want magnets close together so
their fields are out front and not over lapping. It is a harder task that
you may be tempted to stay away from even though it might produce
double the output.

here is what I know, when bring a block of steel near my shield-less
magnets at the bloch wall they spin around and snap right on at a
distance of 1/4".

With shield the same block of steel has no effect and does not respond.
No magnetic pull sitting right on the bloch wall, nothing, it's all out
front and man is it ever strong where it is suppose to be.

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Last edited by BroMikey; 06-25-2019 at 03:32 AM.
  #4386  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I am going back and finding old videos on my phone to post to YouTube. NONE of them were made to give out information. None were made to share with YOU. Most were made to share specific things with Matt or with my machinist about issues as we developed the generator. Some of the videos show inputs, and some show outputs. Some may show BOTH. Remember, as I begin posting these, they are EARLIER versions of the generator. Many were BEFORE I figured out speed up under load or magnetic neutralization.

You will see many, MANY mistakes as I learn what things like amps and volts are, and how to really measure them. Remember, I was a school principal for crying out loud! The only electricity I knew how to work with was AC, and only enough about circuits to wire a house without getting myself killed. You will see me measuring the AC output of the coils with the meter set on DC. You will see me trying to measure amps with no load, or whatever. Am I embarrassed? Nah. Too old for that crap. I make mistakes. I move on. I try to give you the truth as I know it. AM I always correct? NO. But what fun would it be if I was always right? Then bi would have nothing to complain about!


https://youtu.be/l4Rjh0w3SuY
https://youtu.be/K-ofPZCBUak
https://youtu.be/ZwfcVr4dWOc

The next video I am about to post shows the machine running on 36 volts and drawing 18 amps with only HALF the coils in place. It is SIGNIFICANT that I can now run the same motor on 24 volts at 12 amps with ALL TWELVE coils in place, don't you think????

https://youtu.be/A3DakXN-cR8
Cool little machine, so compact and lets see 36vdc X 18amps = 650watt
approx. You could run six 100watt bulbs right Bi? A principle?
No wonder I been feeling like I am being sent to the office so many
times. the principles office is the scary place

All seriousness set aside I think you standing in front of that
rotor without a guard has me on pins and nettles over here. I guess
you were right about mistakes but it is lots of fun to watch your
early stuff. What people don't know cause they ain't old as us is
how Tesla books were around in the 60's when we were kids and this
is when they all went in the dumpster at our school. Even as a boy I
had the smarts to go out back and dig those books out.

They painted Nick to be a mental maniac in the newspapers with
drawings of electrical probes sticking out of peoples heads as a
health cure. During the mid to late 1900's there was so much
conflict with the subjects he wrote about. I went to the principles
office and asked if the Tesla books would be replaced that were
pitched in the trash. He said no, that these subjects were outdated.

I was 14years. I was sad about it. I would spend long hours reading
those books learning the material and then nothing replaced it. In
later years starting from 14 whenever i went to a school library or
a college library I never found a single Tesla book. Still to this day
I am in disbelief.

Thank you for these special video's based on Tesla's work that has
always been dear to my heart.

Yes quite significant that the neutralization magnets have cut down
the amp draw to less than half of 648watts.

I am a firm believer in the neutralization part. All North's for me.
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  #4387  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:59 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Magnet d vs L



You rarely see (don't know if I ever have) generator or motor magnets with thickness greater than the sq rt of face area, or in this case, length greater than diameter. I'm not sure what you use for design criteria, but if you run through this calculator for flux or pull force, or repelling force, for various thickness (L) values, you can figure point of diminishing returns, or in other words, paying for PM volume which doesn't do anything good.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.repel.asp

Also, in that diagram, the .5 dia x .25" thick magnet in the middle will serve better if it were iron or steel.

bi
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  #4388  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:07 PM
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Most interesting thought, please explain your mind sight as you are seeing it in action.
Thanks bistander.
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  #4389  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:48 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Mind sight?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pot head View Post
Most interesting thought, please explain your mind sight as you are seeing it in action.
Thanks bistander.
Simple. Why don't you see long bar magnets used in commercial generators and motors? What attribute is enhanced by using a 3/4dia x 3" long magnet over the 3/4dia x 2" long, or 1" long magnet?

Turion said a few weeks ago it was the magnet mass which matters. Sometimes that is true (certainly in the price). But not so much for the attributes (flux, force, etc) in all cases. Maybe for a 3/4" dia magnet going from 1/8 to 1/4" thick makes a big difference. But 3" thick?

But then I have no idea why he chose that.

bi
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  #4390  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:42 PM
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Bi gets a star on his forehead and not sent to the office, Right?
Bi you are being goated into going off the handle as you love
so well.

What are you talking about, round and square , thick and thin.

What about speed up? Did you do a coil that speeds up?
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  #4391  
Old 06-26-2019, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
So FAR I have tried 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1” thick magnets. With each version I got more output. I made the decision to skip a few steps and go straight to a 2” magnet,
Magnets strenghth
2" X .250 = 50lb
1" X .250 =25lb
1" X .500 =50lb
1" X 1" =100lb
1" X 2" =200lb

Roughly, give or take generalization, I know you have .250 so is this
the thickness you normally used in your smaller magnet tests or were
some of them thicker? My 1/2" X 1" = 50lb

I think core dia is 3/4" right? or are you using 1"? Maybe you tried 2"
but that depends on material.
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  #4392  
Old 06-26-2019, 02:19 AM
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I would be interested in the 1" X 1" rotor magnet build since
these magnets have twice the strength of your 2" X .250.

24 magnets on a 12" rotor? If so that rotor would offer 4X the
flux or better of your thin 2" ones but like you say it depends a lot on
cores too.

Gaps make huge difference I noticed with my 50lb magnets. A 1/4" gap
barely did much. I went to 1/8" then a tiny smaller and wow wee did that
speed up great. I think you use 1/8"
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  #4393  
Old 06-26-2019, 04:09 AM
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Duration is the time it takes for the core material to pass over the
magnet. Mine is bottom right.

Also the frequency of the impulse coming off the big magnets is lower
and the 24 magnet rotors would be many times that. The duration of
the 2" magnet is 2X that of the or the 1" magnet

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/magcore.jpg
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  #4394  
Old 06-27-2019, 04:51 AM
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Thanks Dave beautiful expose of people who just complain and are
unable to trust. I trust you Dave. You are one of the few. I have been
able to tell what people are like in their first few sentences for a number
of years now. Some have an open mind and some have a close thought
process. The reasons vary.

I have demonstrated magnet neutralization in video form. I have given
a demonstration of coils that speed up under load. To realize that with
these two concepts would allow a person to build an O.U. machine takes
a person who has done some generating conventionally.

Even someone who has borrowed a gas generator in a power out knows
that the more things you plug into it the more gasoline it takes. it is
common sense which many folks do not have.

So when you show a way to get power without increasing the drive
motor input the bell should ring in our ears. For those who can't see
this probably can't change the oil on a car or replace a tire without
going to the shop. These type of individual want and take the cushy
jobs, do what they are told like robots never questioning. As long as
they keep their wives happy, their bosses happy and go to Easter
service they feel they are the elite class.

To get them to understand that everything they have is a cheap lie
and that the truth is still out there, is impossible. It would be like
trying to explain to a transgender that they were born spiritually Bi.

Void, zero, empty

This is a no win, no hope class of programmed stoners with no
conscience.

Then there are the few who exhibit the many fruits of the spirit, receiving
freely and building on the instructions you have given. We thank you for
your perseverance and dedication. This makes it worth it all. Yes we must
defend the tittle. It is a mighty claim and awesome achievement of a
lifetime.

Michael Rowland

Here folks can contact me

mrowland55@embarqmail.com
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Last edited by BroMikey; 06-27-2019 at 04:58 AM.
  #4395  
Old 06-27-2019, 11:33 AM
Doogy2Shoes Doogy2Shoes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
bi,


But then I made the decision to release all of this on the forum? Why? For two reasons.

Two, would YOU feel bad selling someone a flintlock pistol as the "latest technology" when you had a 9mm Glock in your trunk? I would.
What do you mean?
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  #4396  
Old 06-28-2019, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doogy2Shoes View Post
What do you mean?
Saying one is locked and loaded MEANS he is always ready, I always
say I was born ready goodie2shoes.

Turion

It was hot today. Staying cool inside gets me drilling holes on a project.
The index is 130+ Oh and I really look foreword to this year as my
machine will be up and running.
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  #4397  
Old 07-12-2019, 03:49 PM
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Hi Dave!
You are so right about the right frequency. As far as I remember the right frequency for lead acid bats would be around 100 hertzs. But it's a long time since I 've read that. I may be wrong. So at 2600 rpm/60, x 2 pulses per revolution, with Matt' s motor = around 100. Am I right?
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  #4398  
Old 07-14-2019, 07:05 PM
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Battery Impedance

Dave has made a really important point about battery impedance here.

If any of you actually want to understand why pulse charging batteries is so useful look up something called Randles model of batteries. The point is that you have 3 to 4 components that the model uses to describe a battery.

Two resistors and a capacitor

Just watch this 4 minute video of it being explained as its easier to understand than reading it here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy1xhi4KDrM

Some versions of the model include an inductor as well. In electrical engineering this set of components looks a bit like a filter and if you sweep the frequency response of it you will find that the impedance of this set of components changes depending on the frequency.

There are 3 important parts for us with impedance spectra - the part where the capacitance dominates, the part where the inductance dominates and the part where the impedance goes to minimum (not zero) just the lowest possible value it can have. Sometimes this minimum impedance can net you an extra 10 maybe even 20% better charge acceptance than you would get by just using straight DC. For lithium ion batts straight dc charging and pulsed charging have roughly the same efficiency of around 85% charge efficiency. For lead acid batteries it can be quite alot better than straight dc charging. (Dont ever use HV pulses on a lithium ion battery as you will destroy it, make sure you use high current pulses at around 14.4V.)

The thing with short transient voltage impulses is that they are made up of a large amount of different frequencies that can go through a system, and they can do all sorts of interesting stuff for lead acid batteries. In engineering we would call this shock excitation of a lead acid battery, it doesn't just ring a single frequency in the battery it rings all of them coupled with how many times you pulse it. If you have a little time between impulses it gives time for the charges to be dispersed back into the electrolyte.

Understanding batteries should be really important to anyone who is actually serious about getting these types of systems to work

3bgs with Matts Motor and Daves gen, Tesla switch, Basic free energy device, Benitez, SG and others

Since improving the charging efficiency of a lead acid battery is useful to be able to get extended run times you should really know about it and use it all the time.
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Last edited by NROC; 08-12-2019 at 10:00 PM. Reason: spelling and grammar
  #4399  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:43 PM
Pot head Pot head is offline
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I have been purposely silent waiting.
I am gathering the parts for my rebuild.
It will be documented here but I wish to print a book so it will be time consuming.
I share credits on ideas I use from members in the proposed book.
If it’s used I write something like,”bistander suggested using a left handed stem bolt wrench”.
Excellent work Dave Turion and anyone else in on the build.
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  #4400  
Old 07-19-2019, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
https://youtu.be/VTPZ4qGDP5A

This should give you some info on rotors. Hope it helps. .
Pretty cool rotors.
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  #4401  
Old 07-20-2019, 03:10 AM
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Hi all, hi turion, wow, great information, thanks for sharing as always.
peace love light
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  #4402  
Old 07-20-2019, 03:17 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Please realize that I understand a battery is "DEAD" at around 12.2 volts. ...
Hi Turion,

For starters, your understanding of "DEAD" is wrong. When the OC voltage at rest measures 12.2V, the SoC is about 40%.



From: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...tate_of_charge

As for the rest of your theories, it is the same old misunderstanding you've been preaching without proof. I don't particularly want to argue. Been there done that. I was hoping I could quietly watch while you interacted with dragon and finally demonstrated your machine with proper instruments.

Regards,

bi
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  #4403  
Old 07-20-2019, 03:43 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Nit pick

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
bi,
You nit pick what you KNOW you can discredit, and ignore everything else that makes you look like a fool. Yes, I know a battery is not completely DEAD at 12.2, buy YOU know you should not discharge a battery below 12.2 because it is harmful to the battery. You always want to argue the little details so you can make yourself look like the expert. But it is the concept where you fall on your face.
If you can't get the details right, why would anyone believe you have the concepts correctly understood?

BTW, any discharge harms the battery. It is just a matter of degree. Many types of batteries can be used well below 40% SoC and deliver rated life cycles.

Later in that post, you say "It(the motor) won't run off the dead 12 volt battery." It most certainly would run off a battery at 40% SoC. Is that nit picking?

bi
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  #4404  
Old 07-20-2019, 06:19 PM
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Bi

Hey Bi,

I don't know why you make me laugh so much lol. Nit picking Dave because he said 'is' instead of 'isn't' your so funny hahaha.

Look man, I'm sure your banned from this thread that's why the bistander thread was created. I'm not sure if your a paid troll to attack Dave or what.

These systems aren't that complicated, Dave and Matt have given away so much information on this forum to people freely. Just put the pieces together and dont give up if it doesn't work first time, it takes a while to 'feel out' these systems. All these OU devices all have the same things in common:

Biggish batteries, modulated voltage or current spikes for low impedance, regulators and some kind of isolated load like a motor spinning a generator that you tie back to your batteries. The point of the spikes isn't just impedance its because what happens on your load side effects the ground side but in reverse and you use that to your advantage.

There is seriously soo much good info on this thread and a few others.

I know you tried before but have another go, do you still have the parts?
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  #4405  
Old 07-21-2019, 04:15 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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My test

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Then run the motor on the battery until it WONT run and THEN try the experiment. That’s the whole POINT bi. You have to actually LOOK at things on the bench and quit depending on what YOU think you know. Because you DON’T. And YES, it is nitpicking. You know very WELL what the purpose of that experiment is and STILL you avoid the issue and focus on details where you can CONTINUE to play the expert. You try your best EVERY time to sidetrack the discussion.
Hi Turion,

You're wrong. I don't know the purpose of that experiment. I was sure what would happen. Confident enough not to really consider running it. But WTF. I have an extra AA alkaline cell here and an older, yet functional 12V lead-acid. So I ran the test. The 12V battery was in decent shape with a charge and easily ran the scooter motor. The AA cell was good and could manage to run the motor slowly. Photo below.



Motor is running with 1.34V and .154A. So I discharged both and connected negative to negative with the motor connected to the cell positive and battery positive. Photo below.



Lead-acid battery at 1.655V, AA at 1.31V and 0.104A in the circuit. I confirmed voltage across motor with another meter at .34V. Motor did not rotate. Even giving it a twist. I could feel a favored rotation direction so the .104A was producing some torque, just not enough. I left it like that for about 10 minutes. Lead-acid voltage slowly crept upwards but never budged the motor shaft.

Results per my expectations.

Regards,

bi
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File Type: jpg IMG_20190720_225421634.jpg (219.1 KB, 228 views)
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  #4406  
Old 07-21-2019, 05:39 AM
bistander bistander is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
... So I take it this means you do not accept my theory that the energy is not consumed by the load? Or that the energy is still in the battery just equalized between the two sides?
Let's put it this way. I accept the science and theories which are well established and easily found in many reputable textbooks and college curriculums. Theories are like claims. You're expected to provide proofs. The authors and professors do this and have been for a very long time for the views I hold. Case in point; how the lead-acid cell works.

Quote:
https://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/lead.htm

The present lead-acid cell consists, in a state of full charge, of a negative plate, or cathode, of spongy lead in a grid of hard lead, a positive plate, or anode, of PbO2*paste in a grid of hard lead, and an electrolyte of dilute sulphuric acid of specific gravity 1.28. This is a 37% solution, with 472.5 g/l of H2SO4. At full discharge, the electrolyte is of specific gravity 1.05, an 8% solution containing 84.18 g/l of acid. Both plates are coated with PbSO4. Approximately 4 moles of acid are used per litre, which corresponds to 213 A-h of charge (an ampere-hour is a current of one ampere flowing for one hour, or 3600 coulomb). Assuming that 4 moles of Pb are reacted at the cathode, and 4 moles of PbO2*at the anode, the total weight of active materials is about 3 kg. This gives a weight-to-capacity ratio of 14 g/A-h. Of course, this is much lower than is required for a practical battery, with case, electrode grids and other necessities. However, a limit of perhaps 25 g/A-h represents the maximum that can be expected of a lead-acid battery, and a limit of about 200 A-h per litre of electrolyte volume.

The cathode reaction is Pb + SO4++*→ PbSO4*+ 2e-. For each atom of lead, two electrons pass through the external circuit when the cell is delivering current. At the anode, the reaction is PbO2*+ 4H+*+ 2SO4++*+ 2e-*→ PbSO4*+ 2H2O. This reaction uses the two electrons sent by the cathode through the external circuit. For each two electrons, two molecules of acid are turned into two molecules of water and two molecules of lead sulphate. The electrode potential of the cathode reaction is -0.355V, and the electrode potential of the anode reaction is 1.685V, at standard concentrations. The net potential difference is 1.685 - (-0.355) = 2.040V. At the concentrations in a fully charged battery, the potential difference is closer to 2.2V, decreasing to 2.0V for a fully discharged battery.

It is easy to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer, and this gives an accurate estimate of the state of charge of the battery. This is one of the great advantages of the lead-acid cell. Note that the electrode reactions do not show any evolution of gases. With open cells, there is in fact some emission of H2*and O2, so the water lost in this way must be replenished regularly. This was once a regular duty in servicing a car, but modern batteries require very little care, and some are sealed, venting gas only when necessary. Also, ventilation was necessary to prevent the hydrogen from becoming an explosion hazard. When ordinary car batteries are charged rapidly, water is electrolyzed.
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  #4407  
Old 07-21-2019, 08:47 AM
NROC NROC is offline
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Is Your Circuit Wired Up correctly?

Hey bi,

Looking at your circuit, you have a red lead from positive of the lead acid bat going through a clamp ammeter to the +ve of the motor. Then you have the -ve of the motor going to a black cable which looks like its going to the negative of the 1.5v batt when its supposed to go to the +ve of the 1.5v batt. I dont know why you havent shown exactly where that black cable from the motor is going?

Can you show the entire setup?
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  #4408  
Old 07-21-2019, 12:42 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NROC View Post
Hey bi,

Looking at your circuit, you have a red lead from positive of the lead acid bat going through a clamp ammeter to the +ve of the motor. Then you have the -ve of the motor going to a black cable which looks like its going to the negative of the 1.5v batt when its supposed to go to the +ve of the 1.5v batt. I dont know why you havent shown exactly where that black cable from the motor is going?

Can you show the entire setup?
Hi NROC,

Here's a photo near the end of my test showing the test leads in question. There is a red clip lead from AA+ to a black clip lead going to motor plug. Just an extra clip lead I left in there because I was breaking the circuit there and could easily reach other points in circuit.

No funny stuff. I just tried to get close enough to show meter values. I'll hold off recharge in case you want another photo or test. Just ask.

Regards,

bi

ps. Be interesting to see what it does this morning after a night to recover. Lead-acid always seem to bounce back or recover some charge from just resting OC after a discharge. I suspect that was the reason the motor ran for Turion. He may have waited longer between discharge and motor run attempt. I moved quickly and did not give it a chance to recover. The AA cell has nothing to do with it except for being an additional load on the 12V battery.

{edit}
Today, after setting open circuit, overnight, the lead-acid battery showed a bit over 8V and the AA was about 1.3V. The lead battery would run the motor by itself as well as when the AA was put in series, negative to negative. Just normal expected behavior for batteries.



Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190720_225810183.jpg (258.5 KB, 229 views)
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Last edited by bistander; 07-21-2019 at 11:41 PM. Reason: Added info
  #4409  
Old 07-25-2019, 02:43 AM
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SkyWatcher SkyWatcher is offline
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Hi all, Hi turion, thanks for sharing.
Look forward to the video you will be sharing in a way you think we will not expect.

Also, 2 men can be standing beside each other and looking at the same thing, we should not assume each are seeing the same thing, and that includes ufo's.
Seen much myself in this weird, wild realm we are in.
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  #4410  
Old 07-25-2019, 04:09 AM
Pot head Pot head is offline
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Hi Skywatcher

I hope your build is coming along.
On the subject of batteries being discharged,
my 24 volt bank was 4 volts when I returned from duty.
I charged it added water and keep it up until needed.
Because of its depletion, I took the time to keep on top of the cells until balance is achieved again and the rate of health is normal.
I try to keep a float charge now to aid in staying healthy.
27 volts at 2 amps is the float charge rate for these.
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