Energetic Forum  
Facebook Twitter Google+ Pinterest LinkedIn Delicious Digg Reddit WordPress StumbleUpon Tumblr Translate Addthis Aaron Murakami YouTube 2018 ENERGY CONFERENCE - ALL SEATS SOLD OUT!

2018 Energy Science & Technology Conference
Sponsored by Teslacoin Foundation

Teslacoin Foundation

https://www.tesla-coin.com/inventorshome/


Go Back   Energetic Forum > >
   

Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here.

* NEW * BEDINI RPX BOOK & DVD SET: BEDINI RPX

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #4201  
Old 08-30-2018, 07:18 PM
Netica's Avatar
Netica Netica is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Majestic81 View Post
Build and test it to find out.....

I am doing so, however because I am thinking about it and a part that I am having trouble understanding, and very close to utilising, I thought I would just ask.

I would have to say in all the time I have been on this forum that this is the most unhelpful reply I have ever received. The post wasn't directed to you and although I welcome anyone's input I don't welcome it in the way you have given it.

I can't see the problem in discussing certain aspects of what is being built after all thats the whole point of discussion and learning, not just for myself but others who may be working on the project to bring about a more complete understanding to everyone interested.
__________________
 
Reply With Quote

Download SOLAR SECRETS by Peter Lindemann
Free - Get it now: Solar Secrets

  #4202  
Old 08-31-2018, 04:27 PM
axxelxavier axxelxavier is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I have run mine for hours on end maybe 8 at the most testing. The only true way to make the thing cool is to use a ferrite material for the rotor. [...] Hysteresis caused by the returned power is what causes the heat and no amount of venting is going to change that, just relive it a little.If you pulling more than 1.3-1.5 amp at 24v while idling something is still wrong but I can't be sure what. Mine runs at 1.4 24v and heats up to 31c at +- 5200 rpms. Its tuned for speed not returned energy.
Matt
It is about tuning, I think. I tried again to fine tune the backplate of the motor, and indeed, the motor draw 1,3 to 1,5 Amp on 3BGS, at 12 volts.
At 24 volt (the motor is connected directly to the booster, so no differential voltage, no 2BGS), the motor is drawing 1,8-1,9 Amp, so I think I can't do better than this except rewinding the rotor with 0,5 mm wire, not 0,55 as mine.
Anyway, the torque is quite impressive - I can't stop the motor by hand, even at 12 volts, so I can start the generator side tests...
Best regards,
Teodor
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4203  
Old 08-31-2018, 08:33 PM
sunlight's Avatar
sunlight sunlight is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
HI all

good evening to all finally my account has been activated thanks to the administrators, especially thank you to M.TURION who gave me two motors and parts needed to build the system 3bgs, he paid everything for me , including shipping to africa, i finished rewinding my motors and i wish to have the help needed to start .

Best Regards Sunlight
__________________
 

Last edited by sunlight; 08-31-2018 at 08:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4204  
Old 09-01-2018, 08:10 PM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netica View Post
Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica
I thought I answered this but apparently I didn't complete the post. Sorry... In the case with the boost converter the returned power goes to the smoothing cap at the end of the boost converter. This is less energy the battery has to provide. Reducing the cost.
Most the returned energy is used up in heat from hysteresis thats why the motors get warm. This can be solved but we have not confirmed that yet so I am not going there.

Matt
__________________
ADD BROMIKEY TO YOUR IGNORE LIST He is a saboteur bent on the systematic distraction of every good topic on this forum and since he has been here most working threads have shut down. He is the enemy. If you have blocked him already add this to your signature and encourage others to block him as well. His onslaught of rambling in large text and his constant attempts to misinform at the excuse of being stupid should no longer be tolerated.

USER CP/Ignore list.
Reply With Quote
  #4205  
Old 09-01-2018, 08:17 PM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by axxelxavier View Post
It is about tuning, I think. I tried again to fine tune the backplate of the motor, and indeed, the motor draw 1,3 to 1,5 Amp on 3BGS, at 12 volts.
At 24 volt (the motor is connected directly to the booster, so no differential voltage, no 2BGS), the motor is drawing 1,8-1,9 Amp, so I think I can't do better than this except rewinding the rotor with 0,5 mm wire, not 0,55 as mine.
Anyway, the torque is quite impressive - I can't stop the motor by hand, even at 12 volts, so I can start the generator side tests...
Best regards,
Teodor
Oh OK, I thought you had wound with "0.5" (or 24 awg actually .511mm). "0.55" is closer to 23 AWG. That would definitely increase the current. More heat too.

https://technick.net/guides/electronics/awg_to_metric/


I apologize I should have included more metric measurements is the instructions. But you know us yanks we're kinda one sided about that stuff. Our way or the highway...LOL.

Matt

Matt
__________________
ADD BROMIKEY TO YOUR IGNORE LIST He is a saboteur bent on the systematic distraction of every good topic on this forum and since he has been here most working threads have shut down. He is the enemy. If you have blocked him already add this to your signature and encourage others to block him as well. His onslaught of rambling in large text and his constant attempts to misinform at the excuse of being stupid should no longer be tolerated.

USER CP/Ignore list.
Reply With Quote
  #4206  
Old 09-03-2018, 04:00 PM
Netica's Avatar
Netica Netica is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
I thought I answered this but apparently I didn't complete the post. Sorry... In the case with the boost converter the returned power goes to the smoothing cap at the end of the boost converter. This is less energy the battery has to provide. Reducing the cost.
Most the returned energy is used up in heat from hysteresis thats why the motors get warm. This can be solved but we have not confirmed that yet so I am not going there.

Matt
Thank you for your help with this Matt.

netica
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4207  
Old 09-03-2018, 07:34 PM
axxelxavier axxelxavier is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Jones View Post
Oh OK, I thought you had wound with "0.5" (or 24 awg actually .511mm). "0.55" is closer to 23 AWG. Matt
Yeah, actually I used what I have around me, there was no reason to buy different gauge wire.
Best regards,
Teodor
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4208  
Old 09-04-2018, 04:33 PM
sunlight's Avatar
sunlight sunlight is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
hello

hello someone can tell me how to test my motor after rewind thank you
best regard sunlight
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4209  
Old 09-04-2018, 09:17 PM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunlight View Post
hello someone can tell me how to test my motor after rewind thank you
best regard sunlight
Run it at 12 volt and 24 volt. Measure the current should be around 1.3 amp. Then check the rpms should be around 12v 2800 rpms 24v 5000 rpms. If its not there work on it.

Matt
__________________
ADD BROMIKEY TO YOUR IGNORE LIST He is a saboteur bent on the systematic distraction of every good topic on this forum and since he has been here most working threads have shut down. He is the enemy. If you have blocked him already add this to your signature and encourage others to block him as well. His onslaught of rambling in large text and his constant attempts to misinform at the excuse of being stupid should no longer be tolerated.

USER CP/Ignore list.
Reply With Quote
  #4210  
Old 09-06-2018, 12:37 AM
sunlight's Avatar
sunlight sunlight is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
hello

hello thank you MATT for your advices best regard sunlight
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4211  
Old 09-06-2018, 05:42 PM
Netica's Avatar
Netica Netica is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 142
Just thought i'd update on how my 1020 motor has been going.
I found that I did have to have two resting commutator sections instead of one, at low speed it wasn't so noticeable but higher revs showed alot of arcing and problems.
Thin connecting leads was also an issue when I first was trying it out.
All wiring and connectors are high rating now.

It takes alot of voltage to get it up to speed though.
It runs on between 1.2 and 1.3 amps but needing 40volts to hit around 3000rpm
I may have to change the winding to get higher revs at lower voltage but that will bring up the amps.
It is a larger motor so it will always have to be different than the 1016 in its specs. that it will run at.
It pulls around 5 amps at 12 volts before the step up. After being 1.2 to 1.3Amps at 40 volts.
I have got the motor running very smooth. And I think it is very close to the best I will get it for now, although winding another a little different would be good to compare.

netica
__________________
 

Last edited by Netica; 09-07-2018 at 09:58 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4212  
Old 09-09-2018, 12:14 AM
sunlight's Avatar
sunlight sunlight is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
hello need help

hi all I need help, I finished my rewinding of my engine, when I tried to turn the motor, it turns and hangs I did the test under 12v and 24v and he a little warm, I used 24awg wire, I used three strands together to rewind, 40 turns for the first section then 30 turns for the second section and 30 turn for the third section, same for the opposite side, I do not know where I made a mistake.
thank best regard.sunlight
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4213  
Old 09-09-2018, 11:49 AM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netica View Post
Just thought i'd update on how my 1020 motor has been going.
I found that I did have to have two resting commutator sections instead of one, at low speed it wasn't so noticeable but higher revs showed alot of arcing and problems.
Thin connecting leads was also an issue when I first was trying it out.
All wiring and connectors are high rating now.

It takes alot of voltage to get it up to speed though.
It runs on between 1.2 and 1.3 amps but needing 40volts to hit around 3000rpm
I may have to change the winding to get higher revs at lower voltage but that will bring up the amps.
It is a larger motor so it will always have to be different than the 1016 in its specs. that it will run at.
It pulls around 5 amps at 12 volts before the step up. After being 1.2 to 1.3Amps at 40 volts.
I have got the motor running very smooth. And I think it is very close to the best I will get it for now, although winding another a little different would be good to compare.

netica
You should have 16 copper spaces on your commutator, 4 should not be hooked to wire. If you only have 2 then the power is shorting out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunlight View Post
hi all I need help, I finished my rewinding of my engine, when I tried to turn the motor, it turns and hangs I did the test under 12v and 24v and he a little warm, I used 24awg wire, I used three strands together to rewind, 40 turns for the first section then 30 turns for the second section and 30 turn for the third section, same for the opposite side, I do not know where I made a mistake.
thank best regard.sunlight
Well obviously if it hangs up when you power it, you got your wire messed up and its jamming the rotor. Rewind the rotor.


Matt
__________________
ADD BROMIKEY TO YOUR IGNORE LIST He is a saboteur bent on the systematic distraction of every good topic on this forum and since he has been here most working threads have shut down. He is the enemy. If you have blocked him already add this to your signature and encourage others to block him as well. His onslaught of rambling in large text and his constant attempts to misinform at the excuse of being stupid should no longer be tolerated.

USER CP/Ignore list.
Reply With Quote
  #4214  
Old 09-09-2018, 10:45 PM
Netica's Avatar
Netica Netica is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 142
There's actually 20 commutator spaces on a 1020 motor so i now have it divided into 3 spaces on and 2 spaces off (x4).

I was saying that I first tried 4 on and 1 off but this caused arcing and problems, and it won't work properly.

When I said 2 spaces resting I mean 2 spaces not connected in every 5 (3 being on) This then happens 4 times for the complete commutator of 20 sections.
__________________
 

Last edited by Netica; 09-09-2018 at 10:56 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4215  
Old 09-11-2018, 10:20 AM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,732
I got ya, your doing the right thing. Was the motor originally 36 volt?

The brushes probably cover more than one segment.

Matt
__________________
ADD BROMIKEY TO YOUR IGNORE LIST He is a saboteur bent on the systematic distraction of every good topic on this forum and since he has been here most working threads have shut down. He is the enemy. If you have blocked him already add this to your signature and encourage others to block him as well. His onslaught of rambling in large text and his constant attempts to misinform at the excuse of being stupid should no longer be tolerated.

USER CP/Ignore list.
Reply With Quote
  #4216  
Old 09-12-2018, 06:17 PM
RAMSET RAMSET is offline
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NYC and Conn USA
Posts: 1,334
Hoping you weather the next few days safely

Gonna be a ruff time indeed..lotsa water too.

will keep you in My thoughts ,and if you need stuff after its over

maybe we can help somehow ?

I truly hope it leaves you unscathed .

respectfully
Chet
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4217  
Old 09-12-2018, 11:14 PM
sunlight's Avatar
sunlight sunlight is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
need advice to rewind

hello hi all I need advice to retry the rewinding of my motor, I do not know why the first it does not worked, MATT if you're here i need of help thank you.
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4218  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:37 AM
Netica's Avatar
Netica Netica is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 142
I placed a diode between the boost converter and motor to isolate what happens on the motor side.
These pictures show voltage on both sides of the diode light blue is the motor side. Dark blue is the boost converter side.

The yellow is just a marker to show where where everything is happening throughout a full revolution.

And a pic of my 1020 motor

netica
Attached Images
File Type: png 6.png (57.6 KB, 31 views)
File Type: png 7.png (54.7 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (90.5 KB, 35 views)
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4219  
Old 09-15-2018, 12:16 PM
wantomake's Avatar
wantomake wantomake is offline
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 873
Be safe

Matthew,
Hoping you are safe and not flooded there in NC. Not sure exactly where you live in eastern NC.

wantomake
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4220  
Old 09-17-2018, 11:28 AM
Matthew Jones's Avatar
Matthew Jones Matthew Jones is offline
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Matthew,
Hoping you are safe and not flooded there in NC. Not sure exactly where you live in eastern NC.

wantomake
Not sure when we will be able to leave the area, like to go to town and stuff, all the bridges are flooded over some as high 4-6 ft higher than hurricane Matthew 2 years ago. One river down the road is 65 ft over flood stage.

And its still raining....!

We got almost 28 inch's yesterday.

Thats life today, brought to you by Carbon....

Matt
__________________
ADD BROMIKEY TO YOUR IGNORE LIST He is a saboteur bent on the systematic distraction of every good topic on this forum and since he has been here most working threads have shut down. He is the enemy. If you have blocked him already add this to your signature and encourage others to block him as well. His onslaught of rambling in large text and his constant attempts to misinform at the excuse of being stupid should no longer be tolerated.

USER CP/Ignore list.
Reply With Quote
  #4221  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:08 PM
wrtner wrtner is offline
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 926
These floods really emphasise the need for a generator of some sort for each household. Not much use if the water is waste high but as it drops, power may well still be off for some time. Each home should get a two pole three way switch for the consumer unit in readiness. It may all happen again. Good luck to you all.
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4222  
Old 09-22-2018, 11:24 PM
hherby's Avatar
hherby hherby is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 76
Generator Coil testing part 1

Hi all,
Hope everyone is high and dry, safe and healthy.

While I have been waiting for a couple of MY1016's and an MY1020 to come in, I have run some experiments using stuff I already built.

A little history. I had built a 10 pole window motor with 10 2"x1"x1" N42 neos
N S alternating on an 8" dia 2" thick rotor with a hall triggered sequential bipolar switch. The window coils are each 6 strands of #23 100' in parallel.
I run it with 2 coils in parallel.

Window Motor Front View


Window Motor Rotor and Coils


In all of the coil speed up under load test results I have seen here so far, it
looks like they were done using all N or all S facing magnets on the rotors.
I wanted to test alternating NS magnets and the window motor was perfect
to try this out since it has alternating poles on the rotor.

Objective: to test performance of a C core for a more closed magnetic loop.
Use alternating poles to increase AC amplitude.
Find a rotor speed/frequency that the coil would not drag when shorted and
hopefully speed up under load.

The Generator Coil is a laminated C core (E core with center leg cut out) with
1000 turns of #18 wire. Here are some electrical characteristics of the coil.
DCR= 4.2 ohms
L = 223 mH @ 1kHz
C = 111.5 nF @ 1kHz
R = 24.65 kOhms @ 1kHz

I didn't measure the length of the winding as I was just counting turns but
from tables and calculations, 4.2 Ohms would equate to about 610 feet which would be around 2.9222 lbs of copper.

Laminated C Core


Coil Side View


Coil End View


The coil was from a flux switch generator design of mine that I was building and testing. It was designed for 8 coils and 18 flux bars to reduce cogging
and to produce a 60 HZ output per coil at 200 rpm.


It turned out the rotor was warped so I could not control the gap.
The coil output was not great and I found out why in these new tests.

Continued in next post...
Alex
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4223  
Old 09-23-2018, 01:11 AM
hherby's Avatar
hherby hherby is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 76
Generator Coil testing part 2

There were a couple of other reading from the LCR meter
that I took but I don't know what they mean.
Q = 15.2
Greek symbol Theta I think = 86.2 degrees
D = 0.065

Baseline Window motor readings - 12V battery with boost convertor
No coil, 14.2V, 0.4A 885 RPM
With open coil, 14.2V, 0.5A, 865 RPM, open coil voltage 90.2V
Shorted Coil, 14.2V, 0.8A, 825 RPM

Increased input to 25.2V
With open coil, 25.2V, 0.7A, 1575 RPM, open coil voltage 163.6V
Shorted Coil, 25.2V, 0.8A, 825 RPM
Connecting a 60W light bulb would really drag the rotor down and increase amps

Increased input to 37.8V
With open coil, 37.8V, 1.0A, 2362 RPM, open coil voltage 252.7V
Shorted Coil, 37.8V, 1.1A, 2345 RPM

Increased input to 50.4V
With open coil, 50.4V, 1.45A, 3090 RPM, open coil voltage 336.2V
Shorted Coil, 50.4V, 1.5A, 3076 RPM

Increased input to 55V
With open coil, 50.4V, 1.6A, 3350 RPM, open coil voltage 368V
Shorted Coil, 50.4V, 1.6A, 3340 RPM looking promising

Increased input to 60V
With open coil, 60V, 1.8A, 3620 RPM, open coil voltage 400V yikes!!!
Shorted Coil, 60V, 1.8A, 3610 RPM

The boost convertor would not go over 62.5V so I switched to a variac/bridge/cap setup
Increased input to 65V
With open coil, 65V, 1.9A, 3880 RPM, open coil voltage 434V
Shorted Coil, 65V, 1.9A, 3860 RPM

Increased input to 70V
With open coil, 70V, 2.1A, 4155 RPM, open coil voltage 471V
Shorted Coil, 70V, 2.1A, 4150 RPM getting closer

Increased input to 75V
With open coil, 75V, 2.3A, 4368 RPM, open coil voltage 500V
Shorted Coil, 75V, 2.3A, 4365 RPM almost there

Increased input to 80V

BOOM

When the dust cleared, I found it threw a magnet, destroyed most of the coils and broke some of the motor mounts. It really surprised me because
I had run the motor before in excess of 6000 RPM. On closer inspection, one
of the screws holding the magnet restraining straps had broke loose. I didn't
see any damage to my work shed and for the life of me I can't find the magnet.



From the trend, it looks like I would have achieved no speed decrease on
shorting somewhere between 4500 and 5000 RPM but alas I may never know Time to regroup.

I was getting nervous on how high the voltage was getting on that coil.
In hindsight, If I would have wrapped that coil with multiple strands of #18
in parallel, it would have had awesome output on the flux switching generator.

What I was planning on trying next in the generation sense was to put a Matt
stye Tesla switch transformer (2 primary windings and one secondary) I have in
series with the window motor coils with steering diodes on each primary so
the current could only flow in one direction in each primary winding as the bipolar switch changed polarity through the motor coils. With that setup I
could have useful motor torque for an external generator for free while the
output of the transformer could have
made up for the losses in the 3 battery configuration.


I could hook up the bipolar switch to an oscillator to drive the transformer
alone in the 3 battery setup which is what I will probably do because I
haven't decided if I will repair my window motor or not since I have the MY1016's and MY1020 coming. The nice thing about the window motor was
no heat in the coils or transistors. The only heat was in the 2W resistors in
the bipolar switch.

If that transformer doesn't work out, I have a couple of these honking Boyce
Toroids that I can try to do something with. They are Micrometals T650-52
which have an OD of 6.5" and an ID of 3.5" and about 1.5" thick.



When I get the MY1016 and get it rewound, I was thinking about running it
with a Half bipolar switch or an SG circuit controlled by an optical sensor to pulse and send the recovery to battery 3 during the motor on times similar to
what Joseph Newman was doing with his motor with the commutator. That
would also control input current of the MY1016.

Well, that is all I have to report at this time and will be out of town on
business most of next week. Hopefully the scooter motors will be here when I get back home.

Cheers all,
Alex
__________________
 

Last edited by hherby; 09-23-2018 at 04:28 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4224  
Old 09-24-2018, 07:28 PM
mobigozer mobigozer is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 7
Send a message via Skype™ to mobigozer
Wow Alex! Impressive material.

Lucky you still could write this message, and were not killed by your own hobby.. It's either your wife or your hobby that kills you in the end, right?

In my case it's my wife slowing me down on my projects ('can you do the dishes honey?'...).

Sofar I collected two 12 V used car-batteries and two 12 V lead-acid gel batteries of an electric skateboard. The car-batteries are 45 Ah and 55 Ah and the 2 skateboard batteries are 12 Ah each. I plan to connect the 2 car-batteries in series and connect the two board-batteries as the third battery but not in series, but connect the minus-pole to the minus-pole of the second car-battery.
Have some old 12v DC motors lying around here from electric powertools and will start experimenting. Like this thread very, very much. Thank you Matthew and Dave!
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4225  
Old 10-01-2018, 04:16 AM
thaelin thaelin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 80
Am trying to figure out which of these motors have the 4 brush pattern. It it the MY1020? I have a couple of the Razor but both are 2 brush type. Thanks.

thay
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4226  
Old 10-01-2018, 05:21 AM
Turion's Avatar
Turion Turion is online now
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,508
Motors

MY1916 and NY1020 both do. I have several of both.
__________________
"I aim to misbehave" Malcolm Reynolds
"Try Not! Do or do not. There is no 'Try' ". Yoda
Reply With Quote
  #4227  
Old 10-01-2018, 10:19 PM
thaelin thaelin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
MY1916 and NY1020 both do. I have several of both.
Sure hope you meant (M)Y1020 ordered 2 of the 750's for my project. Should be enough getty up go. Many thanks for sure T.

thay'
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4228  
Old 10-01-2018, 10:44 PM
Turion's Avatar
Turion Turion is online now
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,508
Oops

Yes MY1020

Must have had too much beer.
__________________
"I aim to misbehave" Malcolm Reynolds
"Try Not! Do or do not. There is no 'Try' ". Yoda
Reply With Quote
  #4229  
Old 10-02-2018, 01:23 AM
sunlight's Avatar
sunlight sunlight is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
hello help

hello Turion how are you, i have problem with my motor ,after rewinding my motor, it does not turn well and it heats too, thank you for help.
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
  #4230  
Old 10-18-2018, 09:15 PM
hherby's Avatar
hherby hherby is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 76
Re: problem with motor

Hi Sunlight,
Review these posts: 4186, 4188, 4192, 4193, 4195

Make sure it is wound like in the pictures and in Matt's videos.
Adjust the timing by rotating the back plate to get the highest RPM with the lowest current draw. That will also reduce some of the heat.

Alex
__________________
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
save, system, generating, battery

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Please consider supporting Energetic Forum with a voluntary monthly subscription.

For One-Time Donations, use admin@ this domain > energeticforum.com

Choose your voluntary subscription

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v1.4.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.8 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
2007-2015 Copyright - Energetic Forum - All Rights Reserved

Bedini RPX Sideband Generator

Tesla Chargers