Everyone can view that post and see there is no edit. I could not have altered it without an edit being recorded and displayed. Here is a copy of the post where I say that you are incorrect, which is distinctly different than saying you are lying.

BTW, where might I buy one these PWM motor controllers which are not buck converters? I've been working with DC motor controllers since before they started using mosfets. I've never seen a PWM motor controller without a FWD.

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That's the second time I try the 2 batteries setup, this time under load, after Dave's advise. My batts are fairly new one year old, 74Ah each and so I have 2 parellel on each side.
I used the small boost converter but in less than a minute I burned it. Then I used a 400watt one which was volt and current adjustable. I confess that being afraid of burning this convert as well, I didn't open completely the current. Also trying to be on safe I put small load also on the generator attached to motor, counted it and was 10watts. So I didn't follow the advice of David to the fullest.
The motor had to use around 35 watts to keep the 10 watts on the gen. Run it for two hours. 20 min on, 40 mins off, few rounds totally 2 hours. Then left them to rest. After 30 hours the two group of batteries where all higher. 41 hours later both are still higher than started. One is 0,02 volt and the other is 0,05 volt. Totally, I used like 70wh and still all 4 batts show gains. I wonder how much better could it be if I had not limited the current, if i have used deep cycle batts instead of car batteries and the modified motor would not get that hot.
I think also the effect is improving by the long intervals in between runs.
Relatively small loads but still clearly shows the potential. Doesn't it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyoJ...ature=youtu.be

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liber63,
Once you have built it and seen it working on your own bench, it becomes more difficult for people to convince you that this doesn’t work. The proof is not in how much voltage or current moved from here to there. The proof is in the batteries. As you run this you will see increased capacitance in the batteries, and that they do not lose their charge. How is that possible when you were running loads the whole time if there is “Nothing to this”

Now you know it works. Don’t let anyone tell you it doesn’t just because they believe they are experts. Go slow and keep good records. I found that a battery analyzer is a pretty important tool to give me good data as I experiment with different circuits. At times I found my voltage might go down .01 volts during a run but the analyzer showed the capacity of the battery had gone UP, meaning, when you do the math, that it would actually hold MORE power. Resting helps these changes take place.

__________________
“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

See just by taking the time to look you have found something. These things happen and there is no explanation why. Its just proof that running these collection systems yields gains.
Your equipment is quality too, big batteries, big wires everything thats needed to make it work.
The only advice is no matter the explanation thrown at you keep your eye on the ball and keep your mind open, keep looking. Don't discount anything.
If you find an effect and you can modify to make it better then your on your way.
I am really happy for you. I know how good it feels to watch stuff like this happen. Contrary to what the "Facts" say.

Matt

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Yes, it's really very exciting. I knew the truth of that by reason, having done similar experiments but not with the right stuff. Now I see it with my own eyes. Nobody can take that from me.
One more thing, I was wondering if all this experiment would do better if the voltages for all was higher, say 24volt for the batteries and 40 for the boost or even 36 for batts and 52 for the boost. I think it's been said here before. Of course, there is no need for that really. Maybe it becomes more complicated.
With my previous setup, I had the batts before start around 12.80 and the boost at 29,2volts, if anybody is wondering.

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One of the biggest losses in the system you have to make up for is the boost modules, and they are MORE efficient at higher voltages. But high voltage DC is deadly, so there is always that risk when you get TOO carried away. And we were trying to show an inexpensive system that WORKS and proves what we have been saying. I’m not going to talk about something I have not run myself. Matt has done way more work running on potentials than I have, so maybe he will comment. All my time has been devoted to the generator side.

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“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

Ya the problem is the boost converter start draw too much current at higher voltage and then exceed themselves pretty easy. I've burned a crowd of them up, I know.
Thats one thing I want look at building specifically for this experiment, so we can get plenty of current without worrying about exceeding the parameters of the converter.

Matt

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https://www.elprocus.com/12v-to-24v-...r-using-lm324/

I'm pretty sure Matt knows of much better tutorials.

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—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

I was wondering is someone could please post the most current schematic of the 3bs with boost converters?

Thanks!!

-Altrez

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Hi Altrez
Here is the basic one.

Attached Images

Turion #683 Boost Circuit.jpg (34.9 KB, 57 views)

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Thank you! What voltages are the boost converts set at?

-Altrez

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Post #3931

This is the circuit we have been talking about for a couple weeks now at least. But it only requires ONE battery. If you HAVE more batteries than that, just put them all in parallel. If you don’t remember what we said about the wires when using parallel batteries, you have some reading to do.

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—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

I understand now. The parallel battery's were confusing me.

Thanks!
-Altrez

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Just a little progress. Hopefully running by Sunday. Start the tuning process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiAG...ature=youtu.be

Matt

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That looks great!



-Altrez

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This is my coil winder. I have posted this before. The drill has a foot pedal to turn it on or off, speed it up or slow down.

I have an extra one of these Matt if you are going to wind a bunch of coils for a larger generator. This is what I used to deal with the coil expansion issue. It works. I have an extra foot pedal to go with it and even an extra drill. Need another drill chuck though. Don’t have an extra that I can find.

Coil winder - YouTube

Coil Winding accessories - YouTube

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“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
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Thank you, Matt. A tool like this I think it will be interesting for many of us...
And thank you, Carroll. Your suggestion was welcomed, so I think first part of coding it's done.
@All,
I finally manage to assemble all my parts and to draw an schematic (which is still possible to have minor bugs).
All seems to work so far well, but must be tested extensively on „real” life.
Anyway, it was fun to work in my spare time on this arduino project, and, because I don't want to waste anybody's time, I post something when I have something to say. For the rest, I am always watching the thread when I have a moment.
Enough talking, bellow are the images - feel free to improve this project, in the spirit of sharing from Matt & Turion.

Attached Images

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	_ 06.jpg (371.2 KB, 32 views)

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Other images...

Attached Images

	_ 07.jpg (273.9 KB, 22 views)
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Some final mentions:
- for the sake of simplicity, you can use a power bank, so you don`t need components from power section;
- the setup is incomplete, because does not contain also the booster, as seen in schematic, but this can be easily added;
- pay attention to wiring the relay board, some instruction are in coding file (.ino);
- for voltage sensor, You can use something like this, or you can do your own board, like myself (I used high precision resistors: 2 x 2K (single 4k, if you find), and 1 K resistor for each board));
- all was mounted on a bigger test board, using 0,5 and 1 mm copper wire for soldering;
- connection of the sensitive boards (arduino, the future LCD Nokia screen) was made with male - to female connectors, so the components can be exchanged or used for other projects.
Feel free to ask anything.

L.E.
It seems like I can't upload the coding file, so here is the code (copy the code in a notepad and save it with the .ino extension):

//2BGS_Battery_swapper V_1, first developed by axxelxavier (Teodor), from energeticforum.com.
//Based on miscelaneous codes from web, among my personal contribution (mharmon12 for digitalWrite HIGH & LOW inverted; more to come :-) )
//More contributors are welcomed, please do not remove this ”history status”.

int Relay1 = 5; //pin 5 will be connected to the relay1 (numbering the relays from copper traces, on PCB layout)
int Relay2 = 4; //pin 4 will be connected to the relay2
int Relay3 = 3; //pin 3 will be connected to the relay3
int Relay4 = 2; //pin 2 will be connected to the relay4
#define ON 0 //invert phase of digital writing for correct operation
#define OFF 1 //the same

void setup() {//Instruction for 4 Relay board = External „+” voltage goes to JD-VCC and „-” to Ground. VCC from relay board goes to 5 volt Arduino Pin.
pinMode(Relay1, OUTPUT); //define digital pin 5 from Relay 1 as output
pinMode(Relay2, OUTPUT); //define digital pin 4 from Relay 2 as output
pinMode(Relay3, OUTPUT); //define digital pin 3 from Relay 3 as output
pinMode(Relay4, OUTPUT); //define digital pin 2 from Relay 4 as output
Serial.begin(9600);//initialize serial print //good for debugging
}

void loop() {
int Batt1 = analogRead(A0);// read the input of Battery 1
int Batt2 = analogRead(A1);// the same for Battery 2
float voltage1 = Batt1 * (5.0 / 1023.0)*4.75; //last number is to convert voltage to real value, use it to fine tune your readings. It must be changed for each battery.
float voltage2 = Batt2 * (5.0 / 1023.0)*4.75; //my voltage divisors use 1% precision resistors, so the results are similar, but feel free to test each voltage divisor and tune up for best performance
Serial.print("Battery 1: ");Serial.println(voltage1);
delay(1000);
Serial.print("Battery 2: ");Serial.println(voltage2);
delay(1000);
if (voltage1<voltage2){ //Relay 1 and 3 from Battery 1 will close, Battery 2 is now active
digitalWrite(Relay1, OFF);
digitalWrite(Relay3, OFF);
digitalWrite(Relay2, ON);
digitalWrite(Relay4, ON);
Serial.println("Battery 1 < Battery 2");
}else{ //Relay 2 and 4 from Battery 2 will close, Battery 1 is now active
digitalWrite(Relay1, ON);
digitalWrite(Relay3, ON);
digitalWrite(Relay2, OFF);
digitalWrite(Relay4, OFF);
Serial.println("Battery 2 < Battery 1");
}
}
//the code it is still incomplete, must be implemented in the future:
//1. some safety features
//2. when voltage1 = voltage2, all relays should shut down

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Can you draw a simple block diagram of what it is your doing.

Charge one battery while discharging the other? Sorry I got lost. Its easy I am blond.

Matt

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I finally took the time to watch Tim Man's video of his test of the Matt motor. It wasn't exactly a Matt motor, but it did show what we expected it to show. There is a spike produced by the motor of a HIGHER voltage than the standing voltage of the battery, that when given a CHANCE, can act to charge the battery. That's the reason we run it between the positives OF BATTERIES instead of with a power supply as he used in his "replication." You can see how excited he gets when he puts the smoothing caps on and the spike goes away. This supposedly proves that what I have been saying is not true. Duh. What would you expect to happen? The problem with this replication is that it is NOT a replication. There is a reason we use batteries instead of a power supply. Batteries react FAVORABLY to that kind of spike. Does anyone believe the spike is going to "charge" the power supply? A scope is a much more accurate measure of voltage than a meter, and the scope showed the peak to peak voltage.That is a correct measurement. But what you ALL have to understand is that what we are interested in is the EFFECT this circuit has on the batteries. They charge better. The capacitance increases, and you get LONGER RUN TIMES. I have compared the stock motor to the Matt motor over long periods running the same generator attached to the same load, and the run times with the Matt motor are longer and MORE generated power is produced with that motor. Until you have done THAT test, I just am NOT going to pay TOO much attention to the silliness.

__________________
“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

Hi Turion,

This is what I've been after you to prove and what I think gotuluc (*meant to say tinman) was attempting to disprove:
It clearly does not put out more than goes in.

Yes, there is a short duration of reverse current each cycle. It shows on the scope along with a bump increase in voltage. This represents a power going to the source which makes power supplies behave badly, but would actually deliver a small charge pulse to a battery if that battery was used to drive the motor.

For your comparative test, too bad you didn't collect real data such as energy in and out.

Regards,

bi

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I love more than anything how the Bisexual shows up right after David says something. LOL
No offense David but he has to attack the novice because for sure he is less of a man than Bromikey especially when it come to his primary concern of detracting any progress.

Tinmans Video showed exactly what David have been saying. When the spikes hit the power supply and raised the voltage it was clear the motor started going faster. How much faster we won't know because those people who sacrificed the integrity of there power supply has done the same thing and ignored the fact that the motor speed up. The power no matter how little returned to the smoothing capacitors of the power supply actually had an effect on the motor.

The motor has issues I have maintained that and we are looking to fix those issues. In do time, but how much more work is it capable of when it speeds up do to the fact it pushes power back? If you put in 24 volt 1.5 amp and the motor runs a load or not at 4500 rpms. You tune it to return power and gains to 4600 rpms. Well thats just a little bit more out than you put in...Isn't it?

The point is not how much you gain or return to source the point is we are trying to find something that does better job. I know the general opinion of the people who think we have done nothing, or its just failure, like Bisexual and tinman, but guarantee those people have done nothing. They have nothing, they want nothing, they are nothing and all you can do is ignore them until they provide insightful improvement. If they choose to ignore the positive while stating the negatives as all the truth, or as fact, then they are the people who mean nothing in search for progress. They are unintelligent cowards who have nothing to contribute. They should go away. Contribution is what makes you valuable. Something you have not done.

Matt

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No it is not. That 36 watts (probably more) is still power into the motor. It may be returning a small fraction of that input power to the source battery, but not more out than you put in. The tests by gotuluc and Tinman clearly show what I'm saying.

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Bi,
The really funny part is that you don’t even know how MUCH you don’t know. And the very BEST part is that because you refuse to listen, you never WILL. So every time you act like a condescending ass hat, it makes me chuckle. I KNOW how much MY system can produce, and I also know how it can be made much more efficient. As for YOUR system... oh wait... you don’t HAVE a system do you? LMFAO!

__________________
“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

Yes, Matt, you got it. It is the two battery setup, one batt is discharging while the second is charging. In the attach is the analogic version (which has been tested and it's working) of this arduino project.
The code it's in the sketch stage, there are scenarios which have to be tested, like 2 batteries fully charged, or a big load wich will push setup in a continuous loop open-close...
Best regards,
Teo

Attached Images

20180805_080704.jpg (240.4 KB, 49 views)

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You know you would think that after while of pointing out we are all misinformed disillusioned idiots, he would just give up and go away. But he has nothing better to do than rehash that over and over. I am sorry to say that is sad. Don't wanna look, don't contribute, just sit around and insanely repeat yourself. I am not sure but I think if I was in that spot I would go get a life or something. I mean whats he trying to save...? Whats his purpose?
I'm not really worried about it though if anyone chooses to listen to him they can, good luck with that.

Matt

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Thanks bud, I'll look through it all.

Matt

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Hi Turion,

My system, or the systems I endorse, of electrical energy conversion and energy storage, power the grid for the entire planet and do it extremely efficiently and reliably. How much useful energy has your system produced?

Keep laughing,

bi

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Bi,
I will. Thanks. The present system is NONE of the things you claim. It is expensive, unsightly, inefficient and an environmental disaster. So it’s all yours bud. Keep looking through your rose colored glasses while change creeps up and then passed you by. We have given you plenty of chances to get on board, but you aren’t interested. So just remember that. I know you will look back at all this with sincere regret some day, but you will have no one to blame but yourself.

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“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist