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  #3601  
Old 03-27-2018, 03:54 AM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Water is deep now

Now this is a lot to chew on. The pool just became an ocean.

Thanks for the video Dave. Good reference as I start building.

Aaron what did Paul B. do to get his coils to a "reduced impedance effect" state? Sorry if that's a proprietary thing for him.

It's 12:00 midnight here so will read all this again in the morning.

wantomake
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  #3602  
Old 03-27-2018, 06:30 AM
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zero-stating the inductor

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Aaron what did Paul B. do to get his coils to a "reduced impedance effect" state? Sorry if that's a proprietary thing for him.
His switching circuitry also monitors the coil to make sure it is completely discharged before the power pulse is applied on the next cycle. I've seen massive transformers light many thousands of watts of ballast driven bulbs with his lighting control circuits and the transformer stays so cool that you can't warm a cup of coffee on it. His methods are legit and he is further ahead than most. Most of his circuit methods are out of the realm of the average builder bit it worth studying his patents and all his video presentations to at least understand the principles involved.

As far as recovering the inductive kickback from a coil switched off, his circuits do it the best. I'd recommend reading all his patents. Flyback Energy is the assignee of most if not all of them. Obviously not all the generator methods here will have spikes and they may run in conventional generator style but with reduced drag effects, but there are a lot of things that Paul accounts for that others have not - at least not to the level that he has.
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Last edited by Aaron; 03-28-2018 at 03:20 AM.
  #3603  
Old 03-27-2018, 11:46 AM
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Shorting coils and cold coffee?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
His switching circuitry also monitors the coil to make sure it is completely discharged before the power pulse is applied on the next cycle. I've seen massive transformers light many thousands of watts of ballast driven bulbs with his lighting control circuits and the transformer stays so cool that you can't warm a cup of coffee on it. His methods are legit and he is further ahead than most. Most of his circuit methods are out of the realm of the average builder bit it worth studying his patents and all his video presentations to at least understand the principles involved.

As far as recovering the inductive kickback from a coil switched off, his circuits do it the best. I'd recommend reading all his patents. Flyback Energy is the assignee more most if not all of them. Obviously not all the generator methods here will have spikes and they may run in conventional generator style but with reduced drag effects, but there are a lot of things that Paul accounts for that others have not - at least not to the level that he has.
Thanks Aaron,
If it can't heat my morning traditional coffee then that's sad. Lol.

I do struggle in circuitry field but have basic understanding. Is it similar to what the shorting brushes on an amplidyne motor does? Maybe not.

Will look through Paul B. patents and circuits. Can't smoke any coils, that is very counter productive. Two options- correct core material and/or correct circuitry.

I did order enough 23 awg magnetic wire for the first multi-strand coil and a coil mechanical/hand winding machine with counter yesterday. Both should be here Tuesday next week.

Must nuke my coffee and study more,
wantomake
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  #3604  
Old 03-27-2018, 03:05 PM
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FYI Here is patent number https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=p.../US5514923.pdf

We have seen this design (5,514,923) in Muller, John Bedini’s exterior three coils on the Ferris wheel and elsewhere on this forum and Energy Science Forums etc.

I do not know if Muller ever patented his device but it appears that this Patent Number: 5,514,923 sure seems to be a direct representation of what Muller and a partial of what John Bedini displayed.

Here is the abstract and summary of the device that is relevant to this topic currently being discussed. Figure 3 from the the patent 5,514,923 shows the three coil offset embodiment clearly, just as in the three large outside coils on John’s ferris wheel.

Anyway here is the...

ABSTRACT A high efficiency multi-phasic type DC motor incorporating brushless electronic switching to phase the attractive and repulsive forces between the permanent magnets in the rotor and wire wound air core coils in the stator. The unequal number of magnets and coils provides a designed imbalance, so that proper energization induces rotation and torque in the motor's dual flywheel rotor. Electronic switching collects inductive kickback and back emf simultaneously during the motor phase and in addition, disconnects the attraction and repulsion phases during regenerative braking, etc. and directs all this generated power back to the power pack where it is stored in batteries and capacitors. The rechargeable batteries and capacitors in the power pack are the source of operating electrical power for the motor. The rotating assembly is designed to have adequate mass so that the kinetic energy of rotation smooths out the pulsing moments introduced by the attraction and repulsion of the coils and magnets and to ensure continuous rotation of the dual flywheel rotor. The combination of electronic switching, the low hysteresis loss in the air core coils, the streamlined configuration of the rotor which reduces windage loss and the recovery of the generated currents in the air core coils contribute to the high efficiency of the electric DC motor.


SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The subject invention describes a highly efficient pancake shaped multi-phasic DC motor with dual flywheel rotors that operates with generator characteristics that simultaneously captures and stores inductive kickback and back emf, in addition to collecting generated power (regenerative braking, etc). RPM, torque, regenerative braking, inductive kickback and back emf are all variable and controlled by a microprocessor and algorithm. Batteries and capacitor banks are used as a rechargeable power pack. At 100 RPM to 3,000 RPM, this high efficiency DC motor with generator and flywheel characteristics has an efficiency of about 80% to 95%.

My question is if we can get up to 95% recovery when operating a (set of three coils) motor/generator in the manner shown, are we then able to cascade this 95% recovery directly into a second stage or arrangement of three more coils and so on and so forth.

Dave Wing
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Last edited by jettis; 03-27-2018 at 07:01 PM.
  #3605  
Old 03-27-2018, 07:41 PM
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BroMikey BroMikey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettis View Post
FYI Here is patent

Electronic switching collects inductive kickback and back emf
simultaneously during the motor phase and in addition, disconnects
the attraction and repulsion phases during regenerative braking, etc.
and directs all this generated power back to the power pack where it
is stored in batteries and capacitors.
Yes I see what you mean. This is a design we heard from Muller
but anyone sitting down with a wheel of magnets searching for
the best low cogging alignment for gen coils might come up with
something similar.

The part that I like is the mention of the special circuitry where OU
can be had (it doesn't say "Special circuits") by other means than
what our discussion has so far been centered around.

Others steps beyond the 3 batt sys never end it would appear.

I see Thane using the parallel wound series connected coils right off
bat but not Muller, and then like Muller and others did, at the same time,
collect up (with special circuits) the inductive spike and throw THAT
energy back to the batteries ALSO.

So that is 2 sources of energy circulating in the system used to recharge
the drive energy and does not take away from the normal run processes
that we all know. You know battery to motor and the battery goes
down and goes down even faster if you try to tap in.

I saw John put an encoder wheel on his pancake generators off the
big ole giant wheels almost hitting the ceiling. Such drama.

Gonna miss John.

John was playing with collecting back also.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 03-27-2018 at 07:44 PM.
  #3606  
Old 03-27-2018, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
The exact SG that this 12 strand
generator coil was is in this picture:



That is the picture on the cover of Bedini SG
That is very good to know, otherwise I would not assume it was
a 12 strand coil parallel wound then series connected.

Now that makes sense why it was a self runner in some cases or
could get closer to break even.
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  #3607  
Old 03-28-2018, 10:05 AM
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SG with gen coil

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post
That is very good to know, otherwise I would not assume it was
a 12 strand coil parallel wound then series connected.

Now that makes sense why it was a self runner in some cases or
could get closer to break even.
At least it was disclosed in the book - and is probably 10 strand and not 12.

This machine was never a self runner but comes very close to breaking even (electrically) - we haven't even added mechanical, which you can see if you do the leather strap, spring scales method with a pulley. If you do, attraction mode can be around 25% or more in equivalent electricity so it is a bit over 1.0 COP. However, I only brought up the SG because of the gen coil that is related to this current topic.

What is very interesting about it is that at x draw running on normal mode, the cap bank is discharging y joule seconds per dump at a certain speed.

When switching it to generator mode, the input draw only increased about 50%, but the cap discharge is now discharging twice as fast so the cap output doubled in joule seconds for the same time. And this doesn't even use the gen coil output.
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Last edited by Aaron; 03-28-2018 at 10:08 AM.
  #3608  
Old 03-28-2018, 03:35 PM
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DIY machines to wind a coil

To ALL,
Ordered wire, spools, coil winding machine with counter this week.

Trying to build a multi-filar coil winding setup before all the parts get here. Thinking to use threaded rods lined up across on a board side-by-side. Place a large washer, the spool, washer, lite spring, washer, then nut. The spring to keep the magnet wire taught as all wires are pulled through a plastic donut guide then onto the main coil spool mounted on the mechanical/hand coil winding machine. I know pictures would be better but planning before building works best.

Any ideas are welcome. If anything I'm approachable and will discuss ideas.

Thanks,
wantomake
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  #3609  
Old 03-28-2018, 06:29 PM
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Hi Wantomake,

I hope that my input here is acceptable.

10+ years ago, I built homemade 3 phase windmills. My first windmill built from scratch, I built by winding coils. I really didn't understand what I was doing very well at the time, and being off grid, I needed power quickly. With limited funding, I didn't have the correct size of wire that the plans called for. I did however have 28gauge wire and reading about lits wire being good for alternative energy projects I decided to use the wire I had and make my own lits wire to match the gauge the plans called for.

I had one large spool of 28gauge wire, so I pulled off 100 feet of wire, cut the end and left that strand laying straight. I then repeated that process 49 more times. This was a difficult process for me, as the wires wanted to get tangled, or kinked, and while winding the coils, behaved like herding cats.

My coil winder I built from a 500 rpm 24 V motor running on 12 volts or even 6 volts from a battery charger into an old washer worm gear reduction box. On the end of the reduction box I built a special coil former with removable sides to keep the coil in the correct shape (a teardrop shape) and thickness.

From my experience and studying, a hand winder will cause your coils to be tight on one side and loose on the other because your arm has greater strength pulling than pushing. Whereas with the motor you can maintain equal tension on the entire circle.

Your set up sounds like you will have spools for each strand. That set up would be prohibitively expensive not to mention a construction nightmare for me. I don't know whether you are going to buy one spool of wire and de-spool enough wire for each strand onto a separate spool, or buy one spool of wire for each strand.

Ultimately this version of the three phase windmill was a failure as vibration at the connection points caused the small strands to break. Furthermore lits wire achieves gains with high-frequency, and my windmill would only operate in low hertz, therefore no gains were realized. Even though the windmill functioned, it's output was not up to specification, so the next windmill had the correct gauge of wire and worked much better.

Your coil winder description sounds good for a few wires. If you're going to do very many strands like I did, you'll have to stack threaded rods vertically as well.

However you decide to do it, I'm cheering from the sidelines here. I expect you to receive inspiration on what to do.

Ken
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Last edited by kenssurplus; 03-28-2018 at 06:43 PM.
  #3610  
Old 03-28-2018, 08:43 PM
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Separate spools

Ken,
Iíll be using different spools per strand. Will wind each spool separately from larger purchased spool. The winder has a counter so can wind each spool exact feet as I need.

Yea my first windmill worked ok. But made the props out of pvc pipe a big no-no. The high winds,a storm actually, broke them and one stuck in the ground like an arrow. Saw the whole thing from my shop. Never build cheap windmill again.

wantomake
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  #3611  
Old 03-29-2018, 11:45 AM
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Arduino switching

Good coffee sippin to All,
Did some more Arduino switching setup yesterday. This is the way I plan to switch the five battery positions around in the 3BGS setup.

I'm a noobie to this C++ and Arduino workings. I want to use the 8-channel relay module to switch power to a separate set heavy duty relays for the battery banks.

At this stage I'm currently learning Arduino and building the generator/motor as per Dave's video. As time and life allows.

Just posting to give update and encourage any builders or interested out there,
wantomake
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  #3612  
Old 03-29-2018, 04:24 PM
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Pieces of the puzzle

Just returned from Lowe's store with precut 3/4" x 14" x14" plywood 4 pieces. Also some pvc 3" unions to hold the coils in place. I will use wooden dowels with pvc pipe as spacers and construct the holders so they can be removed to add coils as they are made. Not sure of the rigidity/strength of this design, only a build will reveal that.

wantomake
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  #3613  
Old 03-30-2018, 12:23 PM
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Good Friday !!!!!

Good coffee and Friday with spring temps here in SC !!!!!!

Got the Temco wire in yesterday. So will be looking forward to the winding machine due before Tuesday. Did get the 3/4" x 14" x 14" holders and sides of the vertical generator/motor finished. Hope to drill dowel and shaft holes today. The five positions for the coils was fun but done.

The mags are 2" wide with 3/4" wide coil cores, not sure that matters as long as I get the air gap correct. Will be using welding rods as core material at first. As the research into better core material advances, so will mine.
The rods will extend 3/4" on both ends of the end piece boards to hold the coils in place. That idea may change.

Trying to build a frst time machine that can be upgraded/adjusted as testing progresses isn't so easy. But I'm encouraged by the generous donors for parts and advice to get me off my retired butt and challenging this old coffee sipper.

Dang what a good feeling to witness this birth of a generator/motor I've never built before,
wantomake
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  #3614  
Old 03-30-2018, 09:53 PM
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2nd Generator/Motor

Here is the progress thus far. 14" x 14" coil holders and ends. The rotor is 10 3/4" diameter with 2" magnets.

Will try to get rotor and shaft in tomorrow or Sunday. Dave mentioned a certain method to use the bearings with threaded rod/shaft. Will try that with bearing brackets on end boards.

wantomake
PS: 1st generator/motor never got to this point.

29829927_1873588822671947_729255453_o.jpg29830019_1873588722671957_220989505_o.jpg29884424_1873588789338617_2046124417_o.jpg
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  #3615  
Old 03-31-2018, 07:45 AM
liber63 liber63 is offline
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I am jealous. Definitely I will do that in due time. Have to finish some other problems first. Thank you wantomake for the detailed progress. It will be very helpful.
The modified motor I made with my friend can be made better. After all it was my first try. These days myself alone(!) I rewound the small MY1016, I made three strands to one litz wire and corrected the timing. The motor runs cool. 3300rpm-15V-0,73A and 5620rpm-24V-1,57A.
One thing I cannot understand is that connected to bigger mod motor which I test as generator and the output through bridge and capacitor, the voltmeter still goes all around the place and I cannot take measurments. The capacitor I put in parallel. Does anyone know how to be able to make meter show the exact voltage?
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  #3616  
Old 03-31-2018, 10:04 AM
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Hi liber63,

I assume you already checked the followings:
-- diode bridge is good, no defective diode in it
--all the wires connections to and from the diode bridge towards the capacitor and the lamp load and analog ampermeter are ok
--capacitor is not defective

Now the next step if the above checks seem ok would be to run your motor from a 5-6 VDC only to have a low rpm for the bigger mod motor i.e. for your generator and measure DC voltage across the capacitor, without a lamp load.

When you turn the shaft of the bigger motor alone by your hand, is there any voltage appearing across the capacitor your volmeter can measure?

Does the lamp load illuminate when you put it across the capacitor? Or directly across the bigger motor output?

Gyula
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Last edited by gyula; 03-31-2018 at 10:07 AM.
  #3617  
Old 03-31-2018, 11:40 AM
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[/QUOTE][/B]
Quote:
Originally Posted by liber63 View Post
I am jealous. Definitely I will do that in due time. Have to finish some other problems first. Thank you wantomake for the detailed progress. It will be very helpful.
The modified motor I made with my friend can be made better. After all it was my first try. These days myself alone(!) I rewound the small MY1016, I made three strands to one litz wire and corrected the timing. The motor runs cool. 3300rpm-15V-0,73A and 5620rpm-24V-1,57A.
One thing I cannot understand is that connected to bigger mod motor which I test as generator and the output through bridge and capacitor, the voltmeter still goes all around the place and I cannot take measurments. The capacitor I put in parallel. Does anyone know how to be able to make meter show the exact voltage?
Liber63,
Nice job and good to see other builders!!!

Try better connectors, a different FWBR then different values capacitors.

Glad to help if I can.
wantomake
Edit: My meter does that with low battery at times. Check it.
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Last edited by wantomake; 03-31-2018 at 11:46 AM.
  #3618  
Old 03-31-2018, 03:07 PM
bistander bistander is online now
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Voltmeter

Quote:
Originally Posted by liber63 View Post
... Does anyone know how to be able to make meter show the exact voltage?
Hi liber,

The mods made to the motors cause transients (sparks). That plays hell with a dvm. An analog voltmeter may dampen the signal and give you an average reading. Or maybe a much larger capacitor?

bi
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Last edited by bistander; 03-31-2018 at 04:34 PM.
  #3619  
Old 03-31-2018, 05:08 PM
liber63 liber63 is offline
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Hi guys, thanks a lot!
Yes you are all right. I had tried and replaced everything but the dvm. When I put the analog the readings where rock stable.
So now i can continue my tests.
All my tests show power in to power out is 3 to 1(I mean small mod motor coupled to bigger mod motor as gen-just a test setup). Of course I know if put at the 3BGS this 1/3 of power is completely free. Done it before many tests, but not with the bonus of Mat's modified Motor.
I remember Mat said that if we wound the 3 strands (or more) together and connect them in series, it would be a reduced lenz but high voltage. Has anyone tried anything of the kind? I am thinking to start winding another motor in this way. Any suggestions would be appreciated, even to discourage me from doing so.
I know I'm a bit behind of what this thread has come to, with the bigger generator and coils and all info of how speeding under load works. But, each one has his own pace.
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Last edited by liber63; 03-31-2018 at 05:56 PM.
  #3620  
Old 03-31-2018, 05:48 PM
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Tried it

liber63,
I did attempt the 3 wires parallel series connected winding for my generator but, it was same output as 3 wires parallel connected.

I also tried 10 wires parallel connected in my mod. motor and it ran hot with extremely high amp draw.

For myself following Matthews directions exactly gave best results. I have motor and generator setup the same. Btw that's the setup I used in my videos and had no voltage decreases.

But sometimes it's a waste of time or a good learning experience. For me the latter.

wantomake
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  #3621  
Old 03-31-2018, 06:48 PM
liber63 liber63 is offline
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Yes, I see. For motor mode is just right the way it is.
I had a test few weeks ago with my big mod motor as motor connected to 2 other connected in series stock motors, as generators! The output was directed to the primaries. I used 3rd battery(bank) to power 64 watts for 4 hours!! and the primaries lost less than 1/10 of a volt. Not to mention the excellent charged 3rd battery bank! So definitely i was very impressed. The winding as suggested is excellent no doubt for motor mode. I am wondering for generator mode as there is no info yet, if anybody tried different things. I think only 3 strands in series is too little to show anything. I still might give it a try with more, at least 6, most likely 9 and play a lot with timing and rpms. We'll see. I think by doing this i also follow Matt's suggestions as i remember. If not, I welcome corrections.
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  #3622  
Old 04-01-2018, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liber63 View Post
I remember Mat said that if we wound the 3 strands (or more) together
and connect them in series, it would be a reduced lenz but high voltage.

Has anyone tried anything of the kind?
No I didn't know that. I thought of it tho. I thought (this was before)
maybe if I did some strands in parallel then connect them in series I
might reach a null point or close to the null. Null meaning generator coils
that do not drag down the scooter motor acting as a generator instead of
a drive motor. Here is what I have found. With a 9" dia magnet rotor
(where the magnets sit on a 10 inch wheel and a very close gap to my
cores I needed 6 strands (#29 ) of 170 feet all in series. The small motor has
a real short rotor distance to the magnets, this plays a part. So many
hundred miles an hour with the large rotor or however you want to look
at it.

I was going to see if i could modify a scooter motor so I reasoned to get
say half of what the big rotor had on it, I would consider 500 feet. So I
would need tiny wire say 30awg using 5 or 6 strands? Somewhere around
that I think. Or was it 40awg, well I'll have to go figure.

The space on the rotor of a scooter frame is small and I would
probably not get 1 amp, 1/2 amp? I think 1/2 amp at all the voltage I
needed. The voltage might be around 300vac but at only half amp.

But when loaded of course my 300v winding will drop way down to the
work it is doing, such as a 110v led light bulb at low amps. It works
right after you rectify, use fast acting or fast recovery diodes to save
energy.

The 3 strands in series would use much thicker wire so a guy gets some
amps and then your voltage would be closer to the number needed to do
battery charging without converters.

In this setting with the 3 strands I do no think any lenz free generation
is achieved, just a prefect output for charging a 24vdc pack.

On the other hand if you want to go the other way to experiment with
these small frames with rotors having winding, you need fine wire and lots
of it. For 29awg wire I needed 1000 feet at 3200 rpm's, those magnets
are really moving on a 9" circle.

Let's say I did it and got a lenz free winding. Next step would be to build
10 more so i could get a nice output. However the other way turns out
to be easier than 6 -10 scooter motors made into lenz free generators.

But it could be done maybe. The thing is with 6 or 8 scooter motors
acting as generators you will have a bunch of friction loss with all of those
shafts and two bearings on each.

Also a word of warning: Those little motors were hard just to get a single
strand wound around the rotor without damaging it so a dead short appears.
I wound one rotor with heavy wire 3 or 4 times to get it to work. Fine
delicate wire is going to need extra care, be ready to throw away lots
of wire.


PS I am building small rotors and doing some work on a huge rotor. Waiting
on parts and money is no fun yet I still have plenty to do. Working.
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Last edited by BroMikey; 04-01-2018 at 07:22 AM.
  #3623  
Old 04-01-2018, 08:36 AM
liber63 liber63 is offline
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Bro, I understand thin wire is difficult. But I 'd rather have amps as well, so I am not planning to put thin wire anyway. For the sake of space I won't be using a very thick one too. So, something in the mid, around 23 and 12 strands and see how it goes.
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  #3624  
Old 04-01-2018, 11:39 AM
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I never turned one into a generator but I would figure 1 strand of 18-20 awg would do it. I would also use all 4 commutator slots for the beginning and ends. No dead space. Use a shotkey diode bridge (4 diodes) on the output. Add a 1000 volt 1000 pf AC cap across both of the output leads.

So with 4 slots on the commutator filled that should induce a short at the peak current point reducing some/all of the drag. The short is going to spike, the cap will help hold that down a little. Depending on what you have on the system you may not need it. Just a battery you can skip it. If you have an Arduino hooked up to the system I would make sure to use it plus a small EMI filter on the input of the Arduino.

If you can crank it around 4500 rpms or better you should probably see 30 - 40 volt around 2-3 amp under load. You may want to find a buck converter to get the voltage in line with your battery if the output is higher than 32v under load.

If your really handy you could build a box around it and put some neo's on the box. Wrap the neo's outside the box with sheet metal to raise the interior induction.

Matt
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  #3625  
Old 04-01-2018, 12:07 PM
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Test machine

One thing is needed to understand and improve any FE idea. Dave said from the beginning pages that the more people are building this setup then the many ideas and tests can be condensed into a workable blueprint.

Each idea needs a testing machine. There are several factors that must work together to get the results needed.
Coil size, output, capacitance
Rotor size, number magnets, speed, lenz effects
Prime mover or motor/generator
Circuitry used

I speak for myself only. A good crafted testing machine with all the factors to work as the above mentioned takes time and money. Wasting either one isn't good.

Plan a good testing machine that you can adjust or change any part of it as needed.
Listen, take notes, ask questions, of those that have done this build already.
Share and help others as you can.

wantomake
Edit: Matthew didn't see your post. So use all the commutator slots ? No skipping one slot as with the modified motor? I guess wind as much 18-20 awg that will fit on the rotor? The generator from my videos is stripped and sitting on my desk. Was thinking to re-wire it and use it for testing the old setup or send it to a deserving builder here. Thanks.
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Last edited by wantomake; 04-01-2018 at 12:26 PM.
  #3626  
Old 04-01-2018, 01:04 PM
liber63 liber63 is offline
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Much appreciated Mat! Your words is like Bible for Christians to me. Next week I will go and buy necessary stuff and get my head down to work. I need to try this first and show my friend the actual results on 3BGS as he is not very enthusiastic. Then, later I can go on for the bigger generator with his help.
I will be testing and sharing as Wantomake recommends.
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  #3627  
Old 04-01-2018, 11:00 PM
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Turion Turion is online now
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Videos

I have seen some of the YouTube videos of folks running a motor in the 3 Battery system turning a simple generator to which a light or lights are connected.

As soon as I see that I know that the person who posted the video has yet to understand what we are trying to show.

The output of that generator is a source of HIGH potential, just like the two batteries are in the three battery system. The load should be running BETWEEN the positive of the generator and a lower potential source, like a cap or a battery.
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  #3628  
Old 04-02-2018, 12:40 AM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Latest progress

Here is the progress made today with what little time I had. But the milling down of the threaded shaft took some time for the bearings and the coupling. Takes time to not over do it and nothing fits.

There will be end plates holding the bearings and the coupling will be connected to a modified Matt motor as show. All is just put together to show me how it will all fit together; spacing to install or remove coils, motor block spacing and such.

Hope to get more done as days of dry and warmth help out. I'm sure there's more to this build as yet to present itself. But will keep posting as much as gets done.

wantomake

29955851_1875810559116440_1651538471_o.jpg29894047_1875810595783103_380732700_o.jpg29942485_1875810615783101_1651133557_o.jpg

29943155_1875810625783100_172292116_o.jpg29942962_1875810639116432_2093765157_o.jpg29942339_1875810579116438_706990869_o.jpg
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  #3629  
Old 04-03-2018, 12:05 PM
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wantomake wantomake is offline
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Not posting for a while

My mother passed on to a better place last night. I'll be presiding over the funeral on Thursday.

Take care All. Will be back in a few days or so.

She left in peace and painless.

James and family
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  #3630  
Old 04-03-2018, 02:42 PM
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citfta citfta is offline
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My prayers for your comfort and peace. It is so wonderful for those of us that know the Lord to know where I loved ones have gone. And an even greater joy to know we will join them someday. Both of my parents have gone on to be with the Lord as well as many other family members and friends.

Take care,
Carroll
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