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  #3451  
Old 01-01-2018, 03:00 AM
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wantomake wantomake is online now
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Good outline

Thanks Dave for good outline or summary of the 3BGS.

We've been stuck in 32° weather for few days and for next week or so. Not sure if can heat the ole shop or the battery bank in this cold.

Also will connect a buck converter to the system when it gets here Jan. 3rd.

Happy New Year and let's hope for good and prosperity for this time ahead.

wantomake
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  #3452  
Old 01-01-2018, 06:33 AM
ron48 ron48 is offline
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Thanks wanttomake already afternoon in the land downunder hope you still stay around love reading posts from descent people ron
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  #3453  
Old 01-01-2018, 01:32 PM
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Love your Country

Quote:
Originally Posted by ron48 View Post
Thanks wanttomake already afternoon in the land downunder hope you still stay around love reading posts from descent people ron
Ron,
If I can be of any help here then it will give me a reason to stay.

I've always loved the land downunder. You are in summer now correct? We are in the heart of winter and it will be close to freezing for a week or so.

I just may need to stay here to keep from going crazy during these cold slow days. My wife's family is in Japan so you may be same time period as they are.

We also have some Finnish born Australian friends that are full time missionaries in Japan, S. Korea and Okinawa. I have visiting your country on my bucket list. We'll be back in Okinawa this year in June for oldest daughter's high school reunion and to visit the church we planted there.

Wife's mom is getting up there in years so all our girls(3) will come with us to see her. Our girls grew up in Okinawa.

Sorry just drinking hot coffee and musing on this new year.

If you want to build this setup, let me know how I can help. I know it's not cheap but worth every penny. Which I just read you guys don't use any more.

Have a good year.
wantomake
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  #3454  
Old 01-02-2018, 02:39 PM
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Balance?

BM,
If you have a lenzless generator, two boosters in place, and correct size load, then there should be no decrease in battery bank voltages.

Balancing the system according to the output of the generator. At least that's worked for me. This week I'll be adding a buck converter to get some better performance, if done correctly. It was 12° F this morning, so this freezing weather will slow things a few days.

One thing I learned is not to depend on the battery bank power, but rather the generator and components output.

Get a good balance to maintain a steady not decreasing battery voltage. That's the goal of this system. Operate a system inside the system.

Use the Force Luke.......
wantomake
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  #3455  
Old 01-03-2018, 04:28 AM
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Not normal for SC.

BM,
This cold is very early for upstate SC. We usually get this cold around end of Jan. and start of Feb. Had snow already and we may get one snow a year if lucky. Unlucky. Let's not compare cold weather experiences. I was stationed for two years in upstate New York 30 miles from Canada !!!! -40 below with the wind blowing across Lake Champlain. It had to warm up to snow. Haha

Yes I feel your pain with the the coil winding. I've been testing coils with cores or without and different number of wires- single, bifilar, trifilar, all the way up to 12 wires in parallel or worse and more difficult, the parallel series connected wound coils. And being self-taught in this electronic field, the capacitance, induction, or conduction of coils is a science all to hard to understand unless you have hands on testing.

https://artojh.wordpress.com/2012/08...i-filar-coils/

Above site is where I studied about multi-filar windings. I can't teach just suggest an idea or way.

I even tried a 6 filar wire in parallel winding on a Modified Matt my1016 motor. Yes it was only a few turns per side and took 6 amps to run it. But for some reason it ran high rpm's and charged the #3 up very fast. But heat got it very quickly. But I repented and went back to exact modification specs that pulled exact .07 amps no load. And 2.3 to 2.8 amps with generator coupled to it. Motor wise I understand to winding specs now.

The generator is a different coil and challenge. The lenzless effect is placement/number of magnets and coils. That wheel chair genny has 32 magnets around the stator, but the rotor has one less(forgot will check) or one more rotor pole that only lines up four poles at a magnet at a time. You can spin it with little effort. The complete one will produce 70 +-VDC with enough amperage to charge 10 marine battery bank at low rpm. I did that with an old Briggs and Stratton 5 hp 90% water 10% gas fumes. The neighbors called me crazy since that day. So I refitted (not a secret) the carburetor on a tiller and tilled the ground in front of my shop with gas fumes only. I got crazy looks but a lot of respect after that. Just needed proof that gas fumes will produce hp too.

Wow a little off subject there,
wantomake
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  #3456  
Old 01-03-2018, 05:40 PM
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Plans

To All,
Visited Lowe's for prices of materials to start building the more advanced generator Turion just posted a book about.

Will start with finished 3/4" plywood $16 for (1) 2 ft x 4 ft x 3/4" piece.
(1) 7/16 " x 2 ft threaded rod for $2.88 ea. Also will use 1/2" x 2ft threaded to hold the two halfs of plywood that houses the rotor with magnets on it.
Will use the smaller of my two mods as prime mover attached to one plywood with threaded rod coupled to it. Of course nuts, washers, etc will add to the build also.

My rotor will be 10" to 12" in diameter with 10 magnets in drilled(shallow) holes (glued) around the perimeter of the rotor. My first rotor will be 1/2" to 3/8" thick acrylic (not sure the proper name) that will be a cutting board from Walmart $10 or so. Or I'll order from online a 12" x 12" piece. Price?. I will have a protective shield built around the rotor in case of magnet projectiles try to harm me. Learned that lesson long time ago. Also orient the machine spin to your left and right, not toward you. DUH !!!!!(That was me after being shot at by magnets not secured to high rpm rotor) Not funny....

This is by no means the correct or safest way to build this lenzless or "use the lenz to attract/propel the magnet" generator. No. You build as you see best for you. I'm retired, using my own time, monies, studying patents, other posters builds, and facing my own failures and hardships. BUT, you must start somewhere to reach a set goal.

Other humans on this Planet are my main purpose to exist and especially why I post here. Please be safe. I care about you.

Not sure of the time table here and how I'll video this for youtube. My new iphone 8 really has poor video pixels for some reason.

wantomake
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  #3457  
Old 01-04-2018, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroMikey View Post

Dave runs huge coils at 2500 rpm's but something is drastically missing
here as Thanes coils appear to be 1/4 the size of Dave's. I think I
found the answer.
BM,
The 32 mag wheelchair motor is indeed small rotor slots for large coils. But I noticed Thane had small coils on a "U" shaped core that looked like transformer lamination or silicon steel. The rotor had magnets on both sides that would pass north then south through the "U" core. You know this I'm sure. So I thought to try a similar idea but different orientation for magnet and coils.

But that will be on back burner for now. I want to try the modified Dave generator first.

wantomake
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  #3458  
Old 01-04-2018, 09:06 AM
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Hello.

The Turion design has two huge copper coils, one on each side of the
north and south pole of a single magnet on a rotor, like Thanes beginning
developmental that was later flux connected with a HUGE strap of
transformer steel that span the entire distance from one side of the
massive magnet pole to the opposite.

Again just another design addition that evolved into a single coil instead
of two on a "U" shaped core. The one with the most copper mass wins
when you want a self regulating machine for a wide variety of loads that
you may connect to it such as a Honda yard generator gets.

Their are many more characteristics we could go pertaining to the Turion
Genhead. The single coil on a "C" core gets hit on both ends at the same
time and operates at a higher frequency that requires less copper if the
RPM and Frequency are right. It would not be so self regulating like a yard
generator needs to be.

Both coils speed up the rotor when called upon to delivery electrical power.

Last year Turion told the group of us speaking directly to me that his
big 23awg coils had 24 strands. He said he has experimented with his
coils by connecting them parallel series. One day said he came to a pattern
he liked that put 12 strands in parallel, then the last set of 12 wires he
connected them up in parallel, then he connected those two 12 strand
bundles in series with each other.

This is only good info for his build, may not work at all for you but this
means Turion was able to reach the null point at only 240 feet and bring
a lot of amps home. But you and I may need 500 feet to reach the null
so if that were true we would need to put 4 sets of 6 strands in series.

Now Thane doesn't talk like that, he says he has a motor coil and generator
coil all on the same spool. I can only speculate that because 2 wire stick
out on his coils how he really has them inside. It is a secret. Thane shows
or demonstrates his stuff has a coil he passes around but he very careful
to keep track that the coil does not get held for long or talked about.

It is a secret, but after you posted that connection diagram study I see
that inner and outer coils on a single spool are shown so much exploration
in all of these areas is needed. We are going to need a team of willing
people to see what is possible or best suited for the task.

Now tuning and balancing just took on a lifetime of adventuring.

Have fun coiling.
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  #3459  
Old 01-04-2018, 02:38 PM
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Secrets and no answers

BM,
There will always be secrets but no answers. You must find those answers yourself is always the old master saying to the young apprentice.

I will be exploring this coil design more on my own to determine which is correct.

In that movie "The Last Samurai" the kid says "too many minds" or too much thinking with too many different masters and ideas. It's best to just build and sort it out yourself, which is what I will do.

wantomake
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  #3460  
Old 01-05-2018, 03:05 AM
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Yes
That is what I have been saying in other words. Yours is not mine and
mine it not yours so what works for you may not work for me, however
taking this a step further some things will work for both of us.

For instance we both use the double booster format. Now not trying to
engage you in endless conversation Sir, I have known you long enough
to know that it's not yer bag. So just let me talk a minute for the sake
of others picking up on this stuff. Repeats are my speaciality or let's just
say in loo of all of my fact blundering, I wanto..........Bee a specialitist
when it comes to rehearsing facts.

Repeats repeats, blah blah blah.......Party time You got to love it.

Now let's get back on track. The latest information on coils is that I
wound strands 175 foot long and wanto.... go up to 240, 250 per strand
to see how it goes. Got to try it all. Once I get 2 coils the same I will stop
winding and test.

I am using 1500 watt microwave oven core material that could be switched
for welding rod and compressed black sand/epoxy. That will be best to
get the shape I want to try. However the tiny section I use out of the MOT
3/4" by 3/4" is 1/5th the entire block, so running up to 100 watts should
be okay on the heating. But then I am running high HZ so I really am not
sure what it is going to do.

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  #3461  
Old 01-05-2018, 03:18 AM
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Gathering parts and diagram.

BM,
Been gathering parts to use for the Modified Dave generator plus trying to draw up a good diagram to follow.

But as I walked into my shop the 3BGS caught my eye. Similar feeling as one of my 8 grandchildren get close to me. I forget my thoughts and time when stopping to play and talk to them. So I spent time trying to use a buck converter in the setup. Learned something but lost time there doing that.

I'm trying to decide the materials and size of the machine. I want to design it so coils can be interchanged at ease and positioned around the holder. The holder or support will be one end of the machine and hold the coils in place. The opposite end will do the same. I need to use same machine to test coils also. Can't afford two or three machines before getting what must be built.

But sometimes my projects just start as piece of junk and I perfect(?) it as more is added to the overall build.

wantomake
PS Didn't see your just posted bahbahbah and am glad you feel better. I may just use plain iron cores to start off or the welding rods Peter Lindemann used at the Conference. I will be careful of heat buildup in coils also. I have a laser thermometer. Looks like Star Trek phaser.
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  #3462  
Old 01-05-2018, 11:30 PM
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Update

Got some of the materials today.
4- 3/4" x 24" x 24" plywood pieces leftover from project at mom's home
3- 1/4" x 18" x 24" acrylic to use as top of generator and (2)spool holders
4- brass bolts 4" long and nuts, washers
1- 1/2" x 3' steel rod or threaded rod for rotor shaft
1- pvc 8' pipe for bracing size not decided
wood glue
3 1/2" wood drill bit used to bore holes for spools
Will be using oak wood or 1" plywood for rotor.

Also will need larger My1020 scooter motor.
I already have a few 3" spools with 3/4" in core center.

Anybody is welcome to join and build with us.

My present generator will only run the shop lights and the system even in cold temps 35 f or lower. I only use it when I'm in the shop. But when balanced low and high sides, it will not lose voltage even after sundown. During daylight hours the solar charges the system battery bank. When I turn on the 3BGS the solar is turned off because it overloads the inverter and it shuts off. It's not much but enough to meet my needs in the shop.

That's why we trying to build Dave's modified generator to get more wattage and do more work.

wantomake
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  #3463  
Old 01-06-2018, 01:21 AM
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As I read the past thread posts I see Dave wondering where all of the
builder are. Wanto......... has a functioning free energy device and so
many others and yet no one wants to have one. Crazy.

It may not be much even as the solar is used to assist the batteries to
charge them back up to 16v once in a while. It is hard to believe that
hardly a person wants to be on the cutting edge or a meaningful
device that can impact the enitre world on a small scale. People like
Luc who lie thru their Gd Dmn teeth saying they love Jesus and are
righteous only take the back road, are the norm. If Luc wanted to prove
the Mod Motor worked why did he stab everyone here in the back.

Why degrade this work? Why lie about it. Lying is when you say you
wish the best hoping the modified Motor does what it was designed to
do then only put up a conventional motor showing it as the center piece,
proving what we all knew in the first place that it was not a modified
motor. Trickery.

Then sneak around on other forums with two other creatures who do nothing
and have never done anything for this open forum calling me and other
filthy lying names. Disgusting dogs headed for the pits of hell with all of their
stupidity and lies.

People were given chances that they didn't deserve and did what they
always do, pose as intellectual guru's with a secret desire to belittle,
demean and challenge everyone's intregrety as if everyone else were retards
or fools.

I have held my peace long enough. Even people running these machines
in private who have never offered to assist the Nubee is pathetic if you
ask me.

Where the hell is Luc? I'll tell you where he is. He is in the same place
as he was when he attempted to show Thane Heins out to be a hoax.
What people do to one person they will do to everybody else.

The rest of you following and petting Luc like the lapdogs you are have
been exposed as insincere while you talk big, threatening and acting as
if they have the upper hand. Go to the devil, I am laughing.

A smooth talking liar is the worst, generally runs in packs.

The 3BGS starts with the Modified Motor and secondly drives a lenz
free generator. The Lenz free portion has been partially on display
by Thane Heins and as I said he was attacked by this same man. Isn't
that a coincidence? I am not so blind.

Like Turion has said, now that the ball is finally rolling down hill it will
be impossible for these clowns to weasel out of their past ramblings
they call higher learning.

My generating system works just fine but how to bring it foreword?

How do you show people a shop running for free? I am going to figure
this out. The rest of you either put up or shut up because this train
is going to run over the skeptics.

This thing could be done with a vcr motor rewound with a Popsicle
stick and two magnets on the end with hair like wire. It is not that hard.

The system with the scooter motor size is cheap and the lenz free
genhead can be done at low prices, there is no excuse.

I just did several more runs, the last one was 11 hours, the point drop
has gotten better. This was told to us, that as the batteries and the
mod motor ran it would do something to improve itself and it does.

The point drop started out as high as 6 points and now from 1290v
to 12.00v the average is 4 1/2 point drop. The differential tells a big story
this is such a cool device. A normal motor is less than half the motor
this one is. I have run the figures bunches of times and this is a 40%
battery usage at 40% of 725wh. It comes out the same everytime.

A conventional motor just kills the system. Ya know like Luc's experiment.

The years roll by.

Think of what I am telling you. A 40% usage of 725wh battery and I ran
the Mod Motor for 11 hrs at 20.55 watts. 226w/h taken leaving 60%
battery life. Think of all of the losses if you understand that the
two boosters burn up energy. 3.6amps at 12.5v = 45watt over
11hrs = 495w/h X .1 = 49.5 watt/ hours burned up with the second
booster running 1.5 X 13.7 = 20.55 watts X 11hrs = 226w hr
X.1 = 22.6w hrs burned up.

So adding 72 watts were lost in switching fees and the Mod Motor
processed 226watt hr. That is 226whr + 72 wHr = 298 w/hr being
a 40 percent usage.

I guess no one gets it. I am speaking from the perspective of half the
machine. Only the prime mover.
A conventional scooter motor runs a 8-10 point drop per hr so
suddenly my battery is half of what it is on the MOD MOTOR.

Crazy cool.


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  #3464  
Old 01-06-2018, 07:02 PM
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A new perspective

BM,
Do you feel better now lol.

I'm not here to call what you just said as wrong or incomplete. Just one thing I want to point out if that's ok.

There will always be those you just rebuked as there is always light and darkness. Positive and negative. Builders and non builders. Believers and those that don't believe yet.

Please try a different perspective here as we build this system and try to encourage others to as well. Don't pay any attention or your time to the other side. If they attack, don't respond. Don't let them pull this great project down. We are two of many here. I know as a missionary if you change one life then that one can influence five. Five can help twenty-five to change their perspective. Dave and Matthew have us two so far. I need your builders perspective here to keep this project moving. We already have protection from any attack. It's our knowledge that we know this 3BGS works. My best days lately is spent just watching my bench build run WITHOUT a single volt decrease from the battery bank.

Dave and Matthew are a big help and will cheer us on from the sidelines as we build this system bigger to power our own doghouse, shop or home.

Be my better perspective brother- BroMikey.
Will try to get some work started today on the Dave Modified Generator today if I can get my butt off this couch and down to the shop. It's a balmy 29 F out right now. Woohoo !!!!!
wantomake
PS: I forgot to mention I connected a DC truckers heater to the positives(cause I try crazy tests) to see what 300 watt load would do to it. Guess what, no not a big explosion, but the motor/generator sped up under load!!! It did pull #3 down but it would speed up each time I connected it. Crazy is true.
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  #3465  
Old 01-06-2018, 11:00 PM
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The GenHead
that has the lowest cogging and has the most copper mass that speeds
up during a loaded condition wins the war on the minds.

I should do what I told you to do and wind up another MOD MTR and run
something using it as a generator, but my time is short these days and I
already have a jig setup that any time I can throw on a coil.

Just so everyone understands, I don't want to let Dave down and never
will so I will maybe let him down easy?.......when I don't start by building
his first genhead. I probably should, to save time because his is proven
and I am going out on another limb.

My "C" cores have evolved into what look more like an "O" core with a 1"
chip out of it.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/ccorechange.jpg

I have begun to realize that random generator coils produce all kinds
of energy fields that could be better captured by a BUCK CONVERTER.
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  #3466  
Old 01-07-2018, 01:27 AM
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Still?

BM,
I'm not sure you read my last post or not?

But it's not my job to coach people on how to have a different perspective and be civil. I only want to try and get more people here to build and have a positive open mind about it.

To All,
I did use one piece of the 3/4" plywood that will be the end piece for the generator. Will cut 5 holes in it to hold the coils in place. My coil spools are 3" x 3 1/2" each. This will be my template or diagram for the 3 other pieces.

IMG_0126.jpg

I want to cut the holes out with door knob key hole circular bit if they sell the size I need. My 4 upright pieces will be 14" square and may have bearings on the end pieces or stand alone away from ends.

wantomake
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:33 AM
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Memories

I ran across this, and thought I would share it. If you notice the date of this blog post, you will see that it dates WAY back. The first one there will also see that I am the only one who has ever viewed it. Guess I'll never be a famous blogger.

https://undergroundmotors.blogspot.com
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  #3468  
Old 01-07-2018, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
I ran across this, and thought I would share it. If you notice the date of this blog post, you will see that it dates WAY back. The first one there will also see that I am the only one who has ever viewed it. Guess I'll never be a famous blogger.

https://undergroundmotors.blogspot.com

Good show!

glenWV
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Old 01-07-2018, 04:37 PM
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patents, lol, one can not serve two masters.
peace love light
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:17 PM
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Let me give you my progress.

First of all the best defense is a good offense. Builders must hold a tool
in one hand and a sword in the other hand to keep this work alive.
Sound familiar? A tool in one hand to further the building progress and
weapon in the other hand to keep others from pulling a Luc on us.

I have cut some more copper bands around 8" long (16 of them) then
colored them, coated them and now drying. These copper straps took
time to make. My Mod Motor, MY batteries, MY boosters, My, My, My I
know but this is MY research. When I put my hand to something, my time,
my effort, my hard earned money, it is mine. Nobody can do it for me.

The new straps have proven to be a noticeable improvement on battery
#3 so the next step is to finish the run batteries the same way so when
my system gets loaded within the c/20 range of no more than 3.5amps
it will benefit.

We can't rush into all the following stages without getting the root proper.

The Mod Motor is an energizer. This means it back pulses the run batteries
and foreword pulses the charge batteries as can be witnessed by the
fluctuating differential. I have things to say.


Fluctuating differential.

With both boosters doing their job and Mod Motor running between
positives the meter shows voltage as follows. Before I give you the readings
let me say when I connect a conventional scooter motor in the same
slot the meter reading exactly only one number.

When I run the Modified Motor the reading should be a set amount and
is mathematically but the meter shows plus and minus values ranging
from +2v to -2v to plus +200v to -200v to off the scale plus and minus
and the process rapidly continues. It is fun to watch.

I realize now why the equal length copper straps impact the system so
radically as one battery is getting a better direct connection to the
special energy generated in the double north pole modified motor energizer.

Just setting up battery 3 with a set of equal length copper straps caused
so much more visible activity seen in the differential it has put me in a state
of shock. I mean I sat here with the system traditional bus bar connected
for weeks watching the meters and the fluctuation reading were as follows.

Poor battery Connecting Leads.

At the start I used the standard bus bar format or battery rails that
could each handle 100 amps never once thinking about the unequal
distance the energy would have to travel to get to each battery. I see
now we want unison.

The differential reading with standard battery leads 13.2v up to 13.8v
then back down to 13.6v and maybe a 14v once in a while but never
showing above or below those figures, and I thought that was monumental.


Anyhow i am back. The meters are computerized and they continually
search for and average voltage reading of which they are totally confused.
These super high spikes send the meter in a blank status. Meters draw
a blank on this energy.
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:23 PM
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Hi mike, was only referring to patents and ownership in general, that is all a trap.
No need to respond, believe as you wish.
Even though, the patent system itself has already been revealed to be a registration service for those that claim to be lords over humanity.
So when one gets a patent, one is essentially gifting it and all rights one thinks they are gaining, over to these would be lords.
I'm not questioning anyones sharing here, just bringing awareness.
And if one is aware, why would one willingly contract away ones ownership rights, since that is what i assume is intended, to keep those rights, to then sell a product, without another already having claim to it, which by default, the patent registration process takes that away from patent applicant.
Just a FYI, carry on.
peace love light
Edit: i forgot that was from 2011 dave, sorry, anyway, still good info for people to be aware of.
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Old 01-08-2018, 12:01 AM
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Time Line

You’re talking about a blog post that was made in 2011 is if it were made TODAY. Just to make it clear, we did NOT quit sharing at that time. We came HERE on the forum and shared enough info that Wantomake has a system that shows exactly what we said was possible when we started the Basic Free Energy Device thread. We have built systems that could have demonstrated the same stuff, and more, but wanted people to build it themselves. Wantomake did that, and chose to show it, So NOW you have a working example as well as the basics that are all out there for anyone to begin with, and eventually get to where we are NOW. We don’t feel like we owe anyone anything. We will follow our path and each of you is free to follow yours. Our sincere best wishes and best of luck. But you know what, even now that a working example has been shown, something people whined at us for YEARS to do, how many people are actually building it and letting it teach you about these systems? If all those people have shown their build HERE, the answer to that question is pathetic.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:34 AM
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3 battery motor mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Aaron,
Sorry I shouldn't have used the term trifilar. It was three wires run parallel and connected together at each end. Trifilar means connected where one wire ends to another that begins. My bad. I followed Matt's videos very closely and got close to the amperage he reported.

Sorry and hope this clears it up. There is only enough room on the rotor for the 100 feet of three wires. Also did the 40,30,30 turns on each side.

wantomake
Thanks for the feedback.

Actually, trifilar applies to your winding method as well. If 3 wires are wound together around a core, by definition it's trifilar - just paralleled.

So this is how you wound your coil sounds like - with the correct number of turns of course - is that correct? And 3 strands together like this actually wound 40/30/30 all together?



Motors finally arrived - went to my friend's shop to use a dremel and just wound up using snips and needle nose - took about 10-15 minutes to remove windings from one motor. I'll deal with the other motor later to wire it up as a generator. I still have to remove the wire guards.

Does this picture match your understanding of the motor mod?



If I get time in the next day or two, I'll get the motor wound and finished off and will post the results.
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Old 01-08-2018, 09:03 AM
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The basic design uses a scooter motor that could be pulsed electrically,
and was, so we do know other strategies exist in the mind of the inventor.
Instead the man went out of his way to make a modification to a dc
permanent magnet motor that permits any and everyone to enjoy this
altered motor without being a electronics master by mechanically
making it switch all by it's lonesome.

I would say that speaks volumes in itself. It is like handing the answer
to everyone on a silver platter. No one need to build any fancy pulsing
circuits, it is all self contained,"here it is take it and win". Now that is what
it is, it is a gift to all because anyone can work it.

It solves so many problems in switching that a regular guy might not
be able to substitute electronically such as the abrupt and powerful
switching all done like a breeze by the brushes when connected in the
right order on the commutator that controls on time without a care
in the world. A true Tesla design.









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Old 01-08-2018, 10:29 AM
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Thoughts

Don’t rant, don’t rave, don’t fight, just build..
Let these pages be filled with descriptions, designs and data, not philosophy opinion and theory.

There has been enough of that over the last 8 years and Lord knows I have done my fair share of all of that. Hopefully I have learned something. And that is to focus on the work. Everything else is a waste of everyone’s time.

Y’all should buy stock in Razor Scooter Motor companies and then spread the word. :-)

Wantomake built the very setup we recommended in the Basic Free Energy Device thread, and then he focused on the little things that all helped improve his system. The correct kinds of wires, equal lengths to all the batteries, MORE batteries in parallel to easier accept charging and discharging without it being such a “shock” to the individual Battery. Better timing on his motor. All things that make what he has more robust and stable. I think Matt and I have been willing to give him some hints here and there outside of these pages because he is building and seems determined, and because he listens.

Now he is to the point where the best way to get more out of the system is to build the generator that can be run by the motor. Is that the last step to a perfect setup? Hardly. But until you go through everything Wantomake has gone through, until you have built what HE has built and showed it here, I doubt you’ll get a pm or email from Matt or I showing you the next step. Because until you have come to understand this system, to be able to tune it to run based on the load, you are not ready for that next step. And make NO mistake, there has to be tuning done on this and until you understand why and HOW to tune it, you will never be successful. A bigger system like Wantomake has is MUCH easier to keep in tune. A small one more difficult. One with small batteries...GOOD LUCK!

If there is one thing I hope you get out of these pages it is this. Every time you have a higher potential and a lower potential, just like water piled up behind a dam, when it moves to the lower potential, use it to do work. The output of your generator coils is a higher potential than you have in your batteries. Once it is running. What work might you do with that on its way to charging up all your batteries and storing it up to run loads on your inverter(s)?

When you HAVE a big enough generator running, YOU decide how big a load you want to run, and then design a system that will do it. These are the tools you will have in your pocket if you build this system correctly and learn what it has to teach. Or not. We each have to follow our own path.

And if you intend to build a generator, here is some advice from someone who spent a LOT of money building generators.
1.Magnets are cheaper than coils. So BIG rotors with lots of magnets
2.Bigger magnets are not always better. Cores have a saturation point. As an example, compare the cost of 2” neos to 1” neos. I have built rotors with BOTH using the same coils. 1” neos produce a little over 75% of the power that 2” neos do. But I can put TWICE as many on the rotor, so I get 150% of the output of the 2” Magnets and even at double the number of magnets I save money because of the COST of the big magnets.
3 NEVER have the same number of magnets as coils. The magnetic drag will destroy your motor.

Get yourself a couple centrifugal clutches so you can get your motor and then your flywheel up to speed BEFORE engaging your generator.

Razor scooter makes a 48 volt MY 1020 motor that you might want to invest in eventually. It is 20 sections instead of 16, but the same winding pattern works except instead of three sections to the coil on each side of the motor, you have four. They ARE more expensive though. Probably more than double the price of the MY1016, which is why we didn’t recommend them right off. Get a working system first.

As usual, it is the middle of the night and I am doing this on my phone, so it’s a pain to edit for spelling and grammar. Old English teacher habits die hard, but old age trumps that every time.

My last bit of wisdom. Let the BUILD you show here do ALL your talking. Don’t show us every hole you drill in a rotor. Nobody cares unless you have a new and better way of doing it. Don’t talk about what you are GOING to do or THINK you can do. BUILD it and THEN show it and talk about it. The rest is a waste of everyone’s time. I couldn’t say any of this if Wantomake had NOT shown a working system, which I refused to do. I always felt like people need to build it to be rewarded. I still do. I have no room in my life for people who just talk. Only for those that DO

And just in case you were wondering if THIS has gotten you to the last step in the learning process for the 3 Battery System, the answer is a resounding “NO!!!!!” All we have shown here so far is still elementary school. Well, if you include the generator, I guess you are up to maybe middle school. Perfecting THAT is high school. And then it’s off to college and grad school. There is so much more to learn from this than you can even imagine, and so much more it is capable of showing you about how electricity can REALLY be used without being consumed. Just keep building and showing your work, and you will get there.

By the way, I HAVE RECORDED A VIDEO of everything I know about this stuff onto USB sticks that have been distributed far and wide. All sent by pony express to folks who have no interest in this stuff. Some friends, some family, some you couldn’t trace back to me if you hired private detectives who worked on it all their lives. This isn’t going away. They all know about this forum and how to post here using MY account and MY password if it comes to that.
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Last edited by Turion; 01-08-2018 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:16 PM
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Looks right

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
Thanks for the feedback.

Actually, trifilar applies to your winding method as well. If 3 wires are wound together around a core, by definition it's trifilar - just paralleled.

So this is how you wound your coil sounds like - with the correct number of turns of course - is that correct? And 3 strands together like this actually wound 40/30/30 all together?



Motors finally arrived - went to my friend's shop to use a dremel and just wound up using snips and needle nose - took about 10-15 minutes to remove windings from one motor. I'll deal with the other motor later to wire it up as a generator. I still have to remove the wire guards.

Does this picture match your understanding of the motor mod?



If I get time in the next day or two, I'll get the motor wound and finished off and will post the results.
Aaron,
That looks correct to me. I asked Matt by email if any questions. He and Dave have helped me alot. At 63 I can be a pesky elementary student.

The biggest challenge has been the balancing of the rotor. As you can tell by the noisy videos.
Look forward to your build and any ideas we may have overlooked.

wantomake
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Old 01-08-2018, 05:38 PM
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video location?

Sorry Aaron,
I tried to find the location of the videos Matthew Jones made for building the modified Matt motor. Wanted to paste the links here.

wantomake
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Old 01-08-2018, 06:45 PM
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Thanks Wantomake

Quote:
Originally Posted by wantomake View Post
Aaron,
That looks correct to me. I asked Matt by email if any questions. He and Dave have helped me alot. At 63 I can be a pesky elementary student.

The biggest challenge has been the balancing of the rotor. As you can tell by the noisy videos.
Look forward to your build and any ideas we may have overlooked.

wantomake
Thanks wantomake,

I have multiple related links to the 3 battery topic here: Another Self Running System - A & P Electronic Media

From that page, I have: "And then study Matthew Jones’ videos on how to modify a scooter motor for the project: https://www.youtube.com/user/mjones7947/videos There are 8 relevant videos there so subscribe to his channel and give his videos a thumbs up to show your appreciation for his sharing!"

I do have Matt's email but also want to post this here for other people's benefit that are new to this topic. It's good to get your open validation since your successful build is being highlighted and that's imporant. I've referred a lot of people to this thread and to Matt's videos but am also trying to encourage the conversations that is focused on the builds.

I'll post a video of my motor rewind project, which is one of five projects I have on the benches right now. Thankfully, this is very related to the Kromrey project as the motor rewind should work perfect as the prime mover.

@BroMikey - your comment on Matt's Motor mod being simpler than electronics - I'd like to add one thing, which has been discussed in depth in a lot of old Bedini related topics is that the "radiant energy" manifests the best with mechanical switching. John Bedini's best self-runner as far as the SG's go was always with mechanical switching. The only electronic switch that I know of that mimics a truly open mechanical switch is Paul Babcock's switching method. When it is off, it is literally disconnected from the circuit unlike simple transistors, etc. So that is the extra benefit that gives better results or at least "should."
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:18 PM
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Good to see

Thanks Aaron,
It's good to see you here building this motor. It does make a great prime mover as I'm using it and love the low amp usage.

I like the idea to put videos of building for others to follow on this replication.

I'm currently gathering parts and special tools to build the larger generator Turion is using. He is helping me as I plan out the build and trying to keep it simple and low cost but good supply of energy to work with.

Thanks for the link to Matthew's videos. I thought I had already subscribed to his channel. But I did and gave him some thumbs up.

wantomake
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Old 01-08-2018, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
@BroMikey - your comment on Matt's Motor mod being simpler than electronics - I'd like to add one thing, which has been discussed in depth in a lot of old Bedini related topics is that the "radiant energy" manifests the best with mechanical switching. John Bedini's best self-runner as far as the SG's go was always with mechanical switching. The only electronic switch that I know of that mimics a truly open mechanical switch is Paul Babcock's switching method. When it is off, it is literally disconnected from the circuit unlike simple transistors, etc. So that is the extra benefit that gives better results or at least "should."
I did see John K. do his SSG with a homemade commutator claiming it
was self running. On Paul B. I think a Thyristor driver has always been
a complex and proprietary circuit for decades as it controls timing on the
opening of the gate plus close timing. Paul uses two kinds of circuits to
get his unidirectional pulses.

As we have heard when the right circumstance has been created the losses
will be far exceeded, this means using 2 ultra fast diodes one behind the
other with what we generally consider to be a waste, is needed for cause
and effect.

This is as far as I have gotten on this subject and could be off by a mile.
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