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  #3241  
Old 01-13-2014, 12:18 AM
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I left the energizer run off the 3BGS all night, it took the charge batt to 14.65V, the primary 1 dropped to 11.3V, primary 2 dropped to 9.6V, Batt 3 went up 13.66V.
Couple thoughts.
1. Primary 2 could have a bad cell
2. I maybe should have worked my way up to 24hr run.
3. Curious to see where batt 3 comes to rest.
4. I think batt 3 is actually improving as a batt.
5. Sadly I may actually have to charge the primaries up.(we'll see tomorrow)

Brian
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  #3242  
Old 01-13-2014, 12:27 AM
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Bad batteries will get fixed somtimes. You can prevent that from shorting them out when in storage.

Matt
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  #3243  
Old 01-14-2014, 12:21 AM
shylo shylo is offline
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Killing that battery

If your gonna kill it ,you may as well use it.
artv
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  #3244  
Old 01-14-2014, 05:28 AM
cornfused cornfused is offline
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Cool

Hi Dave,
As I am writing this I have the basic setup running. Its been running for 30 minutes or so, and my batt. 1 and 2 are currently higher than when started. Batt 1 is 15.4 batt 2 is 14.2 and batt 3 is at 22.2. Batt. 1 and 2 started out at 11 something and batt 3 at 4 volts. #3 started at 27.3 after I hooked everything up, it took 5 minutes or so for the motor to start. Since motor started, I have split the negative with the motor and an aluminum plate in water, in hopes that I can go negative.
This is my first try at the 3bgs. A few nights ago I tried it with two batteries and did get # 2 to go negative, but it didn't stay. It would however run a motor negative when disconnected, but I unhooked the setup and went to bed. The next morning it was back to positive, 3.91 volts. This is really cool, thanks for sharing with us. I have followed your thread since day one, but never took the time to try. I don't have an inverter, but will get one so I can try to balance loads. I did hook an idinical motor to #3 and. Rpm and torque were really high, then unhooked and motor ran slower.
Thanks again for sharing, I plan on fooling with this as my intelligence and time allows.
Jason

Motors are from a peg perigo ride on 4 wheeler. My "good" batteries aren't really that good, they go dead in a day or so.
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Last edited by cornfused; 01-14-2014 at 06:50 AM. Reason: more info
  #3245  
Old 01-14-2014, 07:59 AM
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Glad to see you are having some success with this. The more people who try it the better. As more and more people have doe success with this, it will become more difficult for the nay sayers to convince people that there isn't anything to this.

Dave
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  #3246  
Old 01-14-2014, 08:11 AM
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The plate ...

hey diddle diddle the cat and the fiddle adding a plate why not? I heartily agree ! so does Ed L he tells us in his book on the very stuff that I keep suggesting is vibrating these batteries like this

Amazing Resonance Experiment! - YouTube

magnetic current ... (which you may know as reactive current .. which is attracted by resonance) that LA batteries are unbalanced and another plate should be added ... you have done so bravo! throw it in water or bury it either which way it'll help you drink from natures well

About Capacitors ... Part 2 Why it helps to have an odd number of plates, by Andy Davies - YouTube

stick a decent antenna on the other pole that'll be a bonus too I'll warrant
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  #3247  
Old 01-14-2014, 06:54 PM
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3bgs

The 3BGS is like a box of chocolates....

Which is, of course, the problem.
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  #3248  
Old 01-14-2014, 07:24 PM
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still fun

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turion View Post
Yes, I took that post down. Now you're one of the few who will have that bit of info. Hope it helps. I have all kinds of things I need to test out before I am going to post anything more here. I have no desire to lead anyone down the wrong path as I have seen people do in other threads, where interested parties have spent hundreds if not thousands of dollars for something that isn't working.

I have always felt that the 3BGS was for the average guy, because it is simple to build and relatively inexpensive. I thought there would be thousands of folks trying it. I was wrong. It seems destined to slip to the back pages of this forum like a page 3 story in the newspaper.

But that's ok, because when those of who continue to work finally figure this out, we'll have our reward. It may not be flashy, but this sucker can put out the power. I have seen it. And once you have seen it, nobody can convince you otherwise.


Your guess is as good as mine about the aluminum plate. There are so many different variations of that idea that I decided to pull the comment so I don't send folks all down dead end tracks. If I run into a dead end, I really don't mind.
Dave
Dave,
Still trying to enjoy this project, but the extreme cold here in southeast has slowed me to a standstill.

I understand your reason to remove the post. I did try the same set-up with same size plate. But, if you did something extra to the plate then would be easier to replicate. PM me if you want. If not I still will try this when time and weather allows.

Either way you decide is ok,
Thanks , wantomake
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  #3249  
Old 01-15-2014, 12:51 PM
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I'm running on a bit of a tangent as you all know .. still we are trying to boot the ball into the same net, so If I see something or its reported and I think it pertains .. I'll post . Such is the case in this regard . I did not know granite is radioactive .. neither did I Know it is magnetic . All that aside this was posted..

I know full well there are strange thing happening when an LA battery is being charged !! I got a serious ear bashing from my wife, when after a couple of days charging a battery on one of our Granite work surfaces, upon moving the battery the Granite had taken on the shape of the cell structure within !! And despite a whole day of re polishing there is still the faint outline !!

The pleasures of OU research !!


It may not mean much to you .. but it speaks volumes to me . I questioned the man, That occurred with a standard battery charger.
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  #3250  
Old 01-15-2014, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duncan View Post
I'm running on a bit of a tangent as you all know .. still we are trying to boot the ball into the same net, so If I see something or its reported and I think it pertains .. I'll post . Such is the case in this regard . I did not know granite is radioactive .. neither did I Know it is magnetic . All that aside this was posted..

I know full well there are strange thing happening when an LA battery is being charged !! I got a serious ear bashing from my wife, when after a couple of days charging a battery on one of our Granite work surfaces, upon moving the battery the Granite had taken on the shape of the cell structure within !! And despite a whole day of re polishing there is still the faint outline !!

The pleasures of OU research !!


It may not mean much to you .. but it speaks volumes to me . I questioned the man, That occurred with a standard battery charger.
Thanks Duncan,

Were there any photos of the granite work surface?

Many thanks,

Luther
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  #3251  
Old 01-15-2014, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LutherG View Post
Thanks Duncan,

Were there any photos of the granite work surface?

Many thanks,

Luther
I'm afraid not Luther Its pretty much as it sounds very much more concerned with the shagged work surface and now .. after days of polishing an years of use very little to be seen .It is exactly as it appears an off hand comment in passing that I grabbed hold of. I have asked the guy if a controlled experiment might be done with two batteries side by side one charged with magnetic current a'la George Wiseman and one charged with smoothed DC well its a big ask Luther isn't it? If I started telling you what to do I'm pretty sure I'd soon be shown the door. Still I think he's warming to the idea and also .. has some granite left! In the mean time if that stuff moves a compass or alters resistance ,, or ,, or
well it makes a world of difference doesn't it ? Anyway rest assured if it happens .. I'll tell you .
In the mean time it just might be a bit of the jig saw that matters. So I've reported it as is .
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  #3252  
Old 01-15-2014, 01:48 PM
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More than likely it was just condensation from the heat of charging the battery. And you don't have to have moisture in the room for that to show up the granite is full of it all the time. It will concentrate it areas like that and it can take days for it to dissipate again.

I do not have enough finger and toes to count the amount of home owners who complain about the "Staining" on granite after the first time they see it. A hot pot will cause the same thing.
Its like Moisture wicking in sand. Where hot usually goes to cold, moisture does just the opposite. The hot sun warms the surface of the sand and the sand warms up then the moisture come to the surface.
Same thing on a concrete slab. Thats why they use plastic between the slab and the soil. So as the surface of the slab warms higher that the ground temperature the moisture starts to wick through the slab. Without the plastic you would always have a wet floor.

Matt
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  #3253  
Old 01-15-2014, 02:25 PM
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Shape = deformity = alteration of structure of some very hard stuff polishing is a sweet word for grinding , the man isnít talking about a temporary stain , and I doubt moisture, still as I say make what you will, I think it could be important, flick it off the cuff if you wish.
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  #3254  
Old 01-15-2014, 02:47 PM
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I have heard it all now. Granite is born out of moisture. Its moist in the mountain, it cut out with moisture, its slabbed up with moisture and it polished with moisture. And moisture is trapped in it.

Its also NOT a solid color. Every part of it is translucent. The stain could be below the surface and give it all kinds of appearance. If you actually etched out the polished surface its because you got battery acid on it. Lemon juice left alone on a granite top will etch it out.

But more than likely if polishing didn't remove it it was moisture. And it went away eventually.

Like I said more housewives than I can count have complained about the same thing. Make a mountain out of a molehill. More of it because they think they are paying way to much for a maintenance free stone that will last forever and never blemish. LOL

Goto any granite shop and get a piece of waste and try it, you'll see Its just moisture.

Matt
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  #3255  
Old 01-15-2014, 05:51 PM
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When you look at the direction of current flow in a potentialized system such as this and consider the motor to be just coils of wire located between a higher potential and a lower potential, you want the flow to be in a specific direction through those coils. Why??
1. These motors were designed to run in a specific direction and
2. These motors put out power as a generator in a specific direction.

So, does the generated output of the motor come out the + wire on the motor or the - wire on the motor?? And is that wire connected to the two batteries in series or to the single reversed battery. That will affect your results I should imagine.

Is the current that is traveling through the motor turning it in the direction it was designed to turn in for alignment of the brushes? And please don't tell me it doesn't make a difference, because it does. I have run this motor on high voltages, and know you get more rpm's out of it when it is hooked up correctly.

These things, which I really hadn't considered until viewing the discussion on Erfinders thread, could be the difference between success and failure in the setup of the 3BGS. You can run the motor between the positives or between the negatives. You can reverse the motor in either of these locations. I know on my original setup I split the positives, but I do NOT know which way I had the motor running. It seems that we have four different possible configurations even in the BASIC setup, and I don't know that we have narrowed it down to which one is the best.

Dave.
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Last edited by Turion; 01-15-2014 at 05:59 PM.
  #3256  
Old 01-15-2014, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duncan View Post
I'm running on a bit of a tangent as you all know .. still we are trying to boot the ball into the same net, so If I see something or its reported and I think it pertains .. I'll post . Such is the case in this regard . I did not know granite is radioactive .. neither did I Know it is magnetic . All that aside this was posted..

I know full well there are strange thing happening when an LA battery is being charged !! I got a serious ear bashing from my wife, when after a couple of days charging a battery on one of our Granite work surfaces, upon moving the battery the Granite had taken on the shape of the cell structure within !! And despite a whole day of re polishing there is still the faint outline !!

The pleasures of OU research !!


It may not mean much to you .. but it speaks volumes to me . I questioned the man, That occurred with a standard battery charger.


Hey Duncan, i have done a few experiments with granite dust, ( or metal dust, as we call it ), straight from a quarry.

The parramagnetic strength vary's from quarry to quarry, i have tested samples from 4 quarries in my area, the difference in gauss, etc, is profound.

This dust is an incredible long life soil fertiliser.

My other interest in this dust is for a core material for motor coils and i will be trying some highly parramagnetic dust mixed with high temp epoxy, in my next build, just to see.

Regards Cornboy.
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  #3257  
Old 01-16-2014, 12:29 AM
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Hi Dave
Funny you mention the motors run faster wired up a certain way..
When I was a kid, my dad and I (well mostly me) raced r/c cars. The modified motors all had replaceable brushes and a person could adjust the timing. You timed it in relation to the brushes and magnets. If I remember right advanced timing gave you more rpm, but more current draw, I..e heat. Wouldn't last as long. Retard the timing and the motor had more torqe but still draws more current. We had to find the sweet spot between runtime and speed. Of course the drawbacks were heat . Maybe a person could adjust timing of the motor to compensate for load on the 3bgs.
Jason
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Last edited by cornfused; 01-16-2014 at 12:32 AM. Reason: spelling
  #3258  
Old 01-16-2014, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornboy 555 View Post
Hey Duncan, i have done a few experiments with granite dust, ( or metal dust, as we call it ), straight from a quarry.

The parramagnetic strength vary's from quarry to quarry, i have tested samples from 4 quarries in my area, the difference in gauss, etc, is profound.

This dust is an incredible long life soil fertiliser.

My other interest in this dust is for a core material for motor coils and i will be trying some highly parramagnetic dust mixed with high temp epoxy, in my next build, just to see.

Regards Cornboy.
Its obviously sometime ago that this 'accident' occurred however since I drew the guys attention to it .. he has tested the area with gauss meter and finds the area now more magnetic than the rest significant ? I wouldn't know, neither does he I report because .. It may be, here's his post

Dear Duncan.
It always amazes me how a simple statement made by one can inspire another !! My little accident occurred a couple maybe 3 years ago, dementia or just getting older who knows ?? I had learned to cut out the area in question from my sight !!However we both looked yesterday and the distinct lines are now so faded as to not be there anymore, just the very poor attempt at my repolishing remains !! Grin

I have Granite, not because I can afford it but because a very old friend owns Granite business !! Wink So your test could well be quite simply tried !! Big but !! My work surface is much more strongly magnetic than the other bit's and bob's that I have!!

Do you think this might have a bearing ??

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Last edited by Duncan; 01-16-2014 at 12:34 AM.
  #3259  
Old 01-16-2014, 01:38 AM
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Timing

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornfused View Post
Hi Dave
Funny you mention the motors run faster wired up a certain way..
When I was a kid, my dad and I (well mostly me) raced r/c cars. The modified motors all had replaceable brushes and a person could adjust the timing. You timed it in relation to the brushes and magnets. If I remember right advanced timing gave you more rpm, but more current draw, I..e heat. Wouldn't last as long. Retard the timing and the motor had more torqe but still draws more current. We had to find the sweet spot between runtime and speed. Of course the drawbacks were heat . Maybe a person could adjust timing of the motor to compensate for load on the 3bgs.
Jason
In my runs, timing is a significant variable. My results are always better with more advanced timing. Direction the rotor spins has also been a large factor too. And not only due to timing. My motors allow the brush plate to rotate so I can adjust the timing to my liking for either direction. The winding direction on the stator is what determines optimal results after timing is adjusted for that particular direction. I always tune my motor for optimal charging on battery #2. Everything else will be where you want, if you do that and have the right components. I ALWAYS have found the best results when I split the positives with the motor. I have also found a lower rpm works better than higher. Not sure why. I have had motors that run from a few hundred rpm to 7500 rpm. All on the same 2300 rpm rated chassis. Yeah Dave, I had that MY1016 running at 7500 rpm. Scary. Not done with that one yet. I think @erfinder is about to share that coil topology soon in his thread. Guys, I highly recommend you figure a way to move that brush plate in relation to the fixed PMs in your motors.
My nickels worth.
Good Luck,
Randy
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  #3260  
Old 01-16-2014, 09:21 PM
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test with aluminum sheet

Hello to All,

Found interesting results with aluminum sheet in water.
1) connected wire to pos of #3 battery from aluminum sheet
2) placed car window motor across two neg not pos post
3) no lights on #3 to balance system

While I waited to see #3 drop in voltage and motor start, the primaries voltage started jumping 22 volts to 19 or 20 then back up to 22 again. I tested #2 primary and found it was the one.

So I connected 12vdc light (50 watt) to #3 and the motor started with a surge sound each time the voltage jumped in the primaries 1 and 2.

This happened for five minutes or so and charged the primaries up. But then would start to lose voltage. The #3 would hold around 2.8 volts.

Each time I turn off the motor, let the primary alum batteries sit, they return to 11 volts or so each. I don't recharge them. Then just connect motor and watch the same thing happen. Without light on #3.

Just curious to what you all thought. I did make a video and will post to YouTube later.

wantomake
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  #3261  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:49 PM
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draining the battery

Hi WTM, I can't say , but I have seen a load to drain my dead battery go dead , after 10mins, come back to life, then repeat. I just get tired of waiting for it to finish.
Strange though you would think with the constant load of the motor , the battery shouldn't be able to recover, in order to run it?
artv
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  #3262  
Old 01-17-2014, 02:37 AM
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can It be known

Hey shylo,
I really get excited to see and hear of these strange anomalies in batteries. But what causes this to happen. How do we repeat these pulses of energy. Can It be manufactured and placed in a box so we can be free.

Can It be known? So good feeling to experience this but frustrating to not be able to give a setup to a family with no job, money or power to heat their home.

So can It be known, one day one of us will find IT,
wantomake
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  #3263  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:26 AM
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attempt to restore old batteries

Hi All,

Most my big batteries are in my well pump room, unheated. I wanted to try and use 3bat system to restore some of them. Most the old batteries I have are probably good candidates for a bad battery. But, I am not ready for that right now. I have some solar panels I want to set up next spring. If I can reclaim some of these old batteries, so much the better. This is easier than building a Bedini setup.

Anyway, I fired up the wood stove in my studio and drug in some smaller batteries. One good hardly used two year old lawn tractor battery from walmart, one 12 year old SLA battery about the same size. This battery slowly climbed to 10 volts with trickle charge. Highly sulphated. Two other identical batteries only got to 2 to 4 volts. So, I used this one for bat number two.

Bat 3 is a really old small battery out of a UPS system for computer. Will not hold any charge to light anything but a flash on a led. This bat is about 4 inches square in size. Has a standing voltage of about 5.

To get anything to run I had to put a small two watt dash light bulb across bat 3. I have everything hooked up to split the negatives like in skeptic video 9.
I had to spin it to get it started, but there was 20 volts across the bulb. I was afraid it would blow the bulb, so I put a 130 ohm 2 watt resistor to drop the voltage to about 14.

After about an hour, I noticed the resistor was really hot to touch, so I paralleled it with another 130 ohm two watt resistor. This gave me 65 ohms and reduced the brightness of the bulb with about 10 volts.

After about 3 hours running, I was able to get rid of the resistors and the bulb and run just on a 12volt led array to replace clearance bulbs on cars.
I am running a small motor I salvaged out of an old HP printer. Everything running smooth and quiet. Battery voltages about the same, bat one 12.2v, bat two 10.1v and bat 3 10 v.

Gee, all this writing just to get to the point of my post. I fired up my old bench meter and checked the battery 3 for frequency. My hand meter was showing AC voltage about double the voltage DC. It is polarity sensitive. Therefore I assume It is pulsating DC from the brushes? This is the reason I decided to check the freq. I am getting about 2.4 kHz across bat 3. For some reason I decided to check the freq of bat 2 thinking it would be the same.

But, battery 2 checked out at about 1.1kHz! If I had used a good battery on 2 position, it would have absorbed all the pulsing DC just like bat 1 shows nothing on the freq or AC settings. I was surprised the freq was different.

My feeling is the different size batteries with their high impedance are setting up different resonances with the coils in the motor? Freq much too high for it to be just brushes. I would guess brush freq would be in the neighborhood of 200 to 400 Hz?

Maybe this is old news for some of you. But, I can't recall much discussion on this thread re the freq of the pulses going to bat 3, and why bat 2 has diff freq?
Is it the capacitance of the batteries setting up resonance with the coils as in a parallel circuit?

Just putting this out there for what it is worth?

Chris
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  #3264  
Old 01-30-2014, 02:50 PM
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Frequency

Chris,
Thanks for this input, and you are correct. There has been lots of talk about frequency and resonance, but not any data or any measurement from folks replicating. I will definitely start looking at this, especially when I have the thing working like it is supposed to. Getting the right frequency couldn't hurt!!

I haven't been posting here, except to respond to the posts of others, but that doesn't mean I haven't been working on this. Not a day goes by that I am not running some kind of experiment with the 3BGS, and usually more than one setup at a time going.

Maybe what you have posted will get some folks thinking and maybe thinking will lead to action, and action to results. Or maybe this thread will just die out. Who knows. But thanks for posting. We need people working on this.

So, are you having any luck restoring those bad batteries? LOL

Dave
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  #3265  
Old 01-30-2014, 02:54 PM
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Chris,
This has been my experience with this setup. It is an RLC circuit with a spark gap. The battery plates do provide capacitance. The motor, is the L and sparking. The 3rd battery, the R. It is important to place the battery you to want repair in the 3rd position and use two good batteries in position 1 and 2. This is your power supply and provides little repair benefit to those positions. Position 1 does provide a little. I refer to position 1 as the power battery closest to the motor.

Most meters can't follow the mixtures of current, frequencies, and harmonics that take place in this simple circuit. It is definitely an AC/DC circuit. The interesting harmonics happen between the motor and the third battery, before a certain point of repair.

Good Luck,
Randy
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Last edited by tachyoncatcher; 01-30-2014 at 02:57 PM.
  #3266  
Old 01-30-2014, 08:57 PM
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@Dave
Well I just started started to investigate this restoration project. A small scale with a tiny motor and 2 watt load. Approx 4 hours run time and some improvement with being able to eliminate the bulb and resistor load. So, the resistance of the small bat 3 has gone down. To make use of my solar panels, I will have to move to larger things. Maybe I will try and get something bigger going on in my well house. The weather seems to warming up somewhat where I live.

@Randy
I see what you are saying. I could tell my bat 2 seemed to be supplying the resistor battery in 3rd position. I will remove bat 2 and put it in the well room. I have an old car battery that holds 12 volts for position 1. The lawn tractor bat will move to position 2 and leave small bat as it is in 3rd position. That way the newest battery next to resistor bat. I want to explore resonance with it in my more comfortable studio with wood heat.

In the well room I have two deep cycle marine batteries for position 1 and 2 and the three identical old SLA bats for position 3. Have several old radiator cooling fan motors laying around I can try for the motor. Also have two very old 6 volt golf cart bats. I can hardly move these things around anymore as I am getting old at 77. Really want to finish a lot of projects this year so I can relax.

Chris
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  #3267  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:33 AM
shylo shylo is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 594
Dead batteries charging

Hi Chris, one of the things I've tried ,is when you finish several runs ,and that dead battery has charged (which were trying to avoid).
Hook it to a plug-in wall charger, I've been able to bring dead batteries back to life. It doesn't work with all my dead batteries , but it does work with some. (more capacity than they started with ,but not like new)
Also I found that by running the same battery in position 1 ,will damage that battery, You have to rotate.
I'm still using this system and will continue.
Definitely has some interesting aspects
The more things I do, the more questions I get.
Try everything you can think of,....the answer's there somewhere.
artv
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  #3268  
Old 01-31-2014, 06:36 AM
Tishatang Tishatang is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 212
@Artv

Thanks for the heads up re bat 1 and restoring dead bats. Yes, for such a simple circuit, sure adds up to a lot of questions.

Chris
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  #3269  
Old 02-27-2014, 11:21 AM
ainvision ainvision is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Lightbulb Which Analogy Do We Choose?

Nikola Tesla for all his intuitiveness, sheer genius and observational skills declared he did not know what 'electricity' actually was. He certainly knew what it was not!

Ed Leedskalnin said he knew what electricity was and considered IT to be a transference of 'alternating magnetic particles'. The splendid series of videos about Ed Leedskalnin by Imhotep Labs on YT is very informative and clearly put. I thoroughly recommend them!

If you add Ed's theory to that of Sir William Crook's passage of infinitesimal 'tubes of force' (most notably revised by William Lyne in his book 'Occult Ether Physics') you get a magnetically focussed helical 'electrical' spiral wave of 'electricity' carrying along the 'aether' within itself. Can anyone say, "Inertia?"

Bill Lyne then goes on to present his case regarding 'Nazi Flying Saucers' and that they use a copper plate on all six sides (cubic perspective) which the leading coil producing a pulsed HF HV pulse and its diametrically opposed coil producing an HF AC waveform. The idea being that the etheric tubes of force 'electricity' are dissolved liberating the ether formally within them and eliminating inertia. Unfortunately this idea is very difficult (in its present analogy) to understand. Let me present a different analogy...

If we consider the 'electricity' fore and aft to exhibit acoustic properties then we may consider this. If the fore signal is pulsed HV DC (E.g. 144 MHz) and the aft HV AC (E.g. 144 MHz - in both directions) then if both signals are synchronized then a spacial absence (moving vacuum - 2 times force) should be formed fore and the combination of the aft AC and DC signals should create disharmony and cancel each other out (null zone). Since Nature abhors a vacuum and the acoustic properties of this analogy should be nullified then surrounding space should fill this rear vacuum and create thrust. I'm quite sure Bill Lyne will not tell you this during his conference speech, but you can ask him lots of questions.

If this analogy is accurate then an aft frequency of pulsed HF HV DC 180ļ out of phase may also work (Thomas Townsend Brown Thrusters anyone?). You might try that concept within your motors that capture Back EMF too. I hope this has been informative.
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  #3270  
Old 03-11-2014, 11:02 PM
shylo shylo is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 594
adjusting the load

Hi All, I was exp. today ,not using the 3Bgs , though ,since I flushed my dead bat(it's special) .
Just the 2 primaries , and a standard pm motor, but I added a 3rd brush ,2 comm. positions off the +brush...
Use a common ground, but supply , 1 of the primaries , off 1 brush use the other for drive.
One causes rotation ,and charges a 2nd battery.
How much charge the 2nd battery receives, depends how you load the motor. Also the amount of load keeps changing. Something to do with how batteries discharge , they seem to rush forward , then relax, then repeat.
Keeping them in the , rush forward, aspect is the hard part.
Add a brush to a 12 pole com in the center ,use a diode ,and feed a 2nd battery, keep a common ground, then just keep flipping the batteries back and forth?

Hey Dave watching the Braden with great interest....time and money
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