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Renewable Energy Discussion on various alternative energy, renewable energy, & free energy technologies. Also any discussion about the environment, global warming, and other related topics are welcome here.

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  #1501  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:14 AM
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dllabarre dllabarre is offline
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Hi everyone.

I spent several hours today trying to catch up.
What I gather is this circuit will be used to power an electrical motor using cold electricity that is converted to hot electricity to actually power the motor and this motor will turn a generator creating regular MAINS electricity. Am I close?

I saw several videos, I have the 555 timer circuit and picked up the parts on my way home today.

What I missed was the construction of the coil?
Can someone post a link or directions to wind the coil?
wire size, coil form size, number of turns/layer, number of layers, bifilar side-by-side wound as a pair, etc.

Any help will be grateful.
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  #1502  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dllabarre View Post
Hi everyone.

I spent several hours today trying to catch up.
What I gather is this circuit will be used to power an electrical motor using cold electricity that is converted to hot electricity to actually power the motor and this motor will turn a generator creating regular MAINS electricity. Am I close?

I saw several videos, I have the 555 timer circuit and picked up the parts on my way home today.

What I missed was the construction of the coil?
Can someone post a link or directions to wind the coil?
wire size, coil form size, number of turns/layer, number of layers, bifilar side-by-side wound as a pair, etc.

Any help will be grateful.
Hi dllabarre,
There are several stages to perform.
1. Starting from the vid from P. Lindemann "The secrets of electic motors" we see that a motor is driven by magnetics but there no direct handshake between electric input power and mech. output power.
2. UFO shows how to convert DC motors to higher performance an OU (asymmetric)
3. Along UFO motor we can harvest a certain amount of energy at the second brush set.
4. The notions above perform as ultimate prime mover and can drive state of the art gen heads.
5. To come: Modified asymmetric generators in order to increase COP considerably.

The construction of the coils is no secret. This item was discussed in great detail at the beginning of the thread. You might want to search for "coil" in this thread in order to find out where to read in detail.
The major requirement is to get the resistance of the coil - due to different requirements - in the range of 1 Ohm.

Please comprehend the matter as a series of puzzle parts to be assembled. Do not try to jump several steps at once as long you need to learn basics of this technology. It is i.e. better to have a dead simple pulser working initially than a sophisticated one never working.
rgds JohnS
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  #1503  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:34 AM
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JohnStone JohnStone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester444 View Post
Here's how it came out with various resistances at the gates:

1R 10R 20R 50R 100R

I do agree that circuit stability becomes very important as switching speeds go faster. At some point a dedicated PCB layout would be needed since jumper-type wiring will no longer work. This is already in the RF realm and probably beyond the understanding of a lot of folks here. We also need a different circuit simulator for that.

Hi Lester!
Thanks for the recent plots. As we can see, a resistance between 10..30 Ohm has moderate drawbacks. The shorter the wires are the less damping resistance we need and the steeper the edges can perform.
Thanks for contribution!

@Boguslaw: I tried the simetrix simulator as well and I recommend it. It is very professional and no dirty "me too" service.
rgds JohnS
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  #1504  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:09 AM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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Hey Johnstone,

I tried to PM you but your inbox is full. I have been following for quite sometime and have been trying to keep up with all the information posted. I want to build a PWM to follow along but am a little confused regarding how important switching times are and capacitances within the FETS gate's....I have a Spectrum analyzer and an oscilloscope so I am ready and able.

Is there a specific FET that everyone likes/is easy to get?
Can these PWM go into the Mhz range...say 2-13Mhz?

I am also interested in how this RE manifests itself depending on different coil geometries so a PWM that goes a range of frequencies would allow for more experimentation. You can PM me and we can also get back to each other by email.

Thanks,

Warren
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  #1505  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrensk View Post
..... I want to build a PWM to follow along but am a little confused regarding how important switching times are and capacitances within the FETS gate's....I have a Spectrum analyzer and an oscilloscope so I am ready and able.

Is there a specific FET that everyone likes/is easy to get?
Can these PWM go into the Mhz range...say 2-13Mhz?
....
Hi warrensk,
In order to understand the "mechanics" you shall imagine a hammer hitting a nail. A hammer made of rubber (flat slops, slow switching) will not have suffitient impact. A real hammer made out of steel 1/2 pound will give an impact of about 8 tons max. for short time (steep edges for some ms) - depending on your muscles of course .
There is no need to operate the hammer with 20KHz in order to drive a nail into wood. It will suffice to hit every two seconds but with proper impact.

Of course it will be the optimum in order to have a pulser being able to pulse up to 100A 20GHz (like Huchinson). In reality everybody has his limits in funds, skills, time left ......

My suggestion to drive a FET with 555 directly is the first step for low skills and low budget.
Recently Lester444 posted (thanks!) a remarkable enhancement with 2 additional transistors along IRF740 (10A/400V/30ns)
Next enhancement can be to use dedicated drivers.
Next step.....
Choose your way.
What I stress again and again is that even with second level components you can build remarkable pulsers if you obey using SHORT wires and massive bus bars at FETS (S/D). A highest level driver being 20cm apart from the FET will be third level in overall function.
The first steps will be to learn and you will get lot of skills operating the basic UFO schematic, my basic one or that enhanced from Lester444. There is an African saying: Arriving is built out of single steps - especially the first one.

Ufo never requested pulses in MHz range. Do not confuse the other discussion requesting MHz pulses. That relates to a notion from Tom Bearden and is not related to pulsing UFO motors. Bearden talks of separating longitudinal and transversal waves because of differnt latency in conducting materials.

Regarding FETs: Everybody has different sources available. PC-PSUs, shops, friends ...... So there is no general recommendation. Why not using IRF740 or other types posted or from scavenged PC PSU? It will be no problem at all to replace them by better ones - but please start. The only real minimum requirement is Vds 400...600V /RdsON below 0.5 Ohm / switching time faster than 100ns. Those values are for small setups.
Of course pulsing Imperial 56 frame motor is a very different category!
Please start with material readily available.
You are a lucky owner of a scope! And you can use simetrix simulator. So why not start simulating / building / checking with scope?

Regarding gate cap: It is a inherent plague of FET technology and NO part of your schematic. There are additional caps in a FET and in sum we need to account for ca. 10nF. The FET will switch along real charged voltage in this gate cap. Data sheets account for about 10nF and 10Ohm resitor between driver and gate. They account for about 10V charge in order to arrive minimum RDSON.
ESSENTIAL:
  • At driver power pins 100nF ceramic and 1..10µF any type SHORT wired
  • SHORTEST connection from driver to gate including GND leads
  • If multiple FETs connect S and D with massive bus bars.
  • If multiple FETs make leads from driver to FET all same length
  • Check for spurious oscillations at switching edges. If oscillations found or no scope available add a 10...30 Ohm resistor between driver and each individual FET. It is better to have edges a bit degraded than malfunction.

Omitting those essential will degrade ANY superiour component considerably.
rgds John
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  #1506  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:20 AM
Lester444 Lester444 is offline
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JohnStone,

It is normal practice to put big capacitor (500uF~1,000uF) across battery BUT place this cap very close to the Source terminal of FET and the coil, away from the actual battery. This cap will act like a low impedance voltage source and will greatly improve switching performance AND prevent possible unwanted oscillations.

Just my input. I have worked with similar high-current pulses in the past.
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  #1507  
Old 12-12-2012, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester444 View Post
JohnStone,

It is normal practice to put big capacitor (500uF~1,000uF) across battery BUT place this cap very close to the Source terminal of FET and the coil, away from the actual battery. This cap will act like a low impedance voltage source and will greatly improve switching performance AND prevent possible unwanted oscillations.

Just my input. I have worked with similar high-current pulses in the past.
Yes well! Thanks for mentioning that is true - additionally.
I referred above to the blocking caps at 555 power pins. Some guys are not aware that those are essential as well.

@ALL: In Summary
  • Use blocking caps (100nF + 1...10µF) at driver power pins and bring the whole assembly as near to the gates as possible.
  • Use blocking caps very close to the source terminal(s) of FETs (or bus bar) and the coil as proposed by Lester
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Last edited by JohnStone; 12-12-2012 at 01:48 PM.
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  #1508  
Old 12-12-2012, 03:28 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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Thanks johnstone,

That was very helpful, I will get to work ASAP. It sounds like this is something I will enjoy making and especially upgrading! Here comes some radiant energy!

Looking forward to some more disclosure today,

Warren
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  #1509  
Old 12-13-2012, 07:21 PM
Donald Haas Donald Haas is offline
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1st attempt with UFO's circuit

Hi All,

I want to go through the learning process carefully in able to have it right when it's time for the Imperial build.

Just got the recommended parts for the Lestter44 corected UFO basic circuit.

Breadboarded it last night.

I can not get the neon to flash but it will light to different degress of solid orange.

Can't get the cfl bulb (13w) to light solid but will flash.

My coils are (1) #20awg, 3 layers, 120T per layer, 1.5 in core.
(2) #17awg, 3 layers, 120T per layer, 2.5 in core.

The input amp from 12v batt for #1 coil is .016a, for #2 coil is .031a
Scope shows duty cyle of close to 100% when pot is close to minimum and will fry neon.

I need verification of how the pot is hooked.
Are all three legs hooked?
Not sure of the symbology on that pot. Three inputs to pot. ???

The cold side frequency is far less the the hot side.
Isn't this backwards? I tried hooking the coil both ways polaritywise.

I would appreciated any insights.

Retired with machine shop equipment, so should be able to get it happening.

I now have 3 goldmine motors to modify. Plenty to do.

I've done a lot of Bedini and fuelless building but this is a new approach.

Thanks for being here.

bro d
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  #1510  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:04 PM
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prochiro prochiro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald Haas View Post
Hi All,

I want to go through the learning process carefully in able to have it right when it's time for the Imperial build.

Just got the recommended parts for the Lestter44 corected UFO basic circuit.
Breadboarded it last night.
I can not get the neon to flash but it will light to different degress of solid orange. Can't get the bulb to light solid but will flash.

My coils are (1) #20awg, 3 layers, 120T per layer.
(2) #17awg, 3 layers, 120T per layer.

The input amp from 12v batt for #1 coil is .016a, for #2 coil is .031a
Scope shows duty cyle of close to 100% when pot is close to minimum and will fry neon.
I need verification of how the pot is hooked.
Are all three legs hooked?

Not sure of the symbology on that pot. Three inputs to pot. ???

The cold side frequency is far less the the hot side.
Isn't this backwards?

I would appreciated any insights.

I now have 3 goldmine motors to modify. Plenty to do.

I've done a lot of Bedini and fuelless building but this is a new approach.

Thanks for being here.

bro d
Donald Haas
Good to see you are making progress and going slowly. The middle pin of the pot on that circuit goes to pin 7 on the pot and the outer pins on the pot go to 1K resistors. If this causes wrong direction when turning pot, reverse the outer two and correct dial rotation. Coils should be air core and 1 OHM. As to the frequency, at 12v, this will just get the circuit going. You may be seeing a small cold side frequency because you are not feeding it enough. Go to 18 or 24 volts on the fets and watch the show. Start with both pots down, turn duty to 50% and slowly increase frequency.
Have fun,
Dana
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  #1511  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:13 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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PWM + asymmetric motor = ?

Hello, After hearing the good news from UFO on the other forum....I am wondering if this PWM circuit (that i just ordered all the parts for) is what is later on going to run these asymmetrical motors more efficiently...?

These circuits allow for very fast switching time to basically only let potential charge the coil's resulting in the magnetic field charge and discharge resulting in RE without the classical discharging of a battery...please correct me if I am wrong. UFO is running his motor straight DC, not pulsed so far. Just wondering if this is what the plan is for the future. Either way I am gearing up.


Great thanks to ALL especially UFOPOLITICS for inspiring many to inspire others. May we all spread this beautiful (radiant) light for others to see the TRUTH.


Warmest regards,

Warren
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  #1512  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:20 PM
Donald Haas Donald Haas is offline
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Trouble with site

Hi All,
I've had endless problems with using Evergetic Forum.

Aaron says he knows of no one having similar problems.

When I submit a post the response page won't come up.

So I try again and same result.

Hence duplicate postings.

Today one place said I was the last poster on this thread and the thread did not show the post. Then it shows two posts after I spend 10mins trying to log in. Maybe someone has a better understanding of this than I.

Goofy stuff!

bro d
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  #1513  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:23 PM
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warrensk
No, straight DC is not the plan. John Stone has stated many times and UFO has stated this again today, that we will need bigger, faster and altogether more robust equipment to run the 56 frame motors. It has been stated many times also that the circuit you are building is for learning and small motors. Ufo and J.S. will tell you what the net requirements are when that is known. One note also is that if you read the thread, that all first runs of any motor was on straight DC so as to eliminate confusion.
Dana
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  #1514  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:27 PM
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prochiro prochiro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald Haas View Post
Hi All,
I've had endless problems with using Evergetic Forum.

Aaron says he knows of no one having similar problems.

When I submit a post the response page won't come up.

So I try again and same result.

Hence duplicate postings.

Today one place said I was the last poster on this thread and the thread did not show the post. Then it shows two posts after I spend 10mins trying to log in. Maybe someone has a better understanding of this than I.

Goofy stuff!

bro d


I also have noted the same thing and as well, edits to posts are not showing. ??????? Slow System ?????
Dana
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  #1515  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:50 PM
warrensk warrensk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prochiro View Post
warrensk
No, straight DC is not the plan. John Stone has stated many times and UFO has stated this again today, that we will need bigger, faster and altogether more robust equipment to run the 56 frame motors. It has been stated many times also that the circuit you are building is for learning and small motors. Ufo and J.S. will tell you what the net requirements are when that is known. One note also is that if you read the thread, that all first runs of any motor was on straight DC so as to eliminate confusion.
Dana
Prochiro,

Thanks for the quick reply and clearing that up for me. Sounds like we are taking full advantage of our future by preparing to upgrade already! I will try and replicate the purple neon experiment and post my results when I get them.

Warren
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  #1516  
Old 12-14-2012, 07:30 AM
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JohnStone JohnStone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald Haas View Post
Hi All,
I've had endless problems with using Evergetic Forum.

Aaron says he knows of no one having similar problems.

When I submit a post the response page won't come up.

So I try again and same result.

Hence duplicate postings.

Today one place said I was the last poster on this thread and the thread did not show the post. Then it shows two posts after I spend 10mins trying to log in. Maybe someone has a better understanding of this than I.

Goofy stuff!

bro d
Me too! No idea why. Use "advanced" edit. It works all time!
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  #1517  
Old 12-14-2012, 08:08 AM
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Hi Folks!
The basis of UFO technology is the asymmetric winding. This opens the door to many differnet additional measures being of no use in symmetrical world. And there are plenty of them - and all have their specific implications.

Pulsing the asymmetric prime mover is one of those measures. I explained again and again that we need to think in terms of functional blocks.
  • Generator
  • FET driver
  • FET stage
  • Coil
  • ...

Ufo started his public activity showing what radinat is in order to grasp this element of his technology. Here we can evalutae on how to proceed with the building stones applied in this thread.

Ufo started another thread regarding asymmetrical winding being another puzzle part. Once being there on solid ground we will go further.

Here we perform the very same approach you were tought as child - assembling a puzzle.

Surely one of the future steps will be to put these two technologies together - he mentioned it many times. But do not expect to just join these parts and you have all well done. There are many chances in order to pulse the motor. But if you have built your pulser in a modular way you can make your FET stage working with high voltage / high currents or replace the pulse generator with some control from the motor directly in order to synchronize it properly..... We can do it with descrete components or by dead simple and cheap microcontrollers (dummy grade but highly effective). You will get help in any extend.
The prospect above is for example only. I do not claim to know what is next. There are MANY additional ways to climb.

So be calm and patient and do it like hiking in the mountains: watch the far montains and enjoy them AND do the next step in the dirt and enjoy it as well. But do not try both at same time!

I educate myself in some extend just now in order to prepare for possible future demands. And please note there are some brains here discussing from time to time further approaches - behind the curtain - in order to have a garden full of flowers being prepared to pick the right selection in order to assemble a well tunded bunch for every casuality.

The attribute of experts is not the knowledge only but the aibility to do the right activities in the right time and right order. This notion refers to our community and the aibility to act together far more effectively than any single brain.
JohnS
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Last edited by JohnStone; 12-14-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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  #1518  
Old 12-14-2012, 06:50 PM
Donald Haas Donald Haas is offline
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Hi Dana

[QUOTE=prochiro;218394]Donald Haas
Good to see you are making progress and going slowly.

Hi Dana,

I have to wait for a 250k pot to proceed with the basic circuit.

I bread boarded the circuit with 2 LM393's and not seeing anything.

I powered it with 11.5v and scoped it at output and nothing is showing.

The gnd is the input and output neg, right?

I'll try it again with soldering.

I can test this without a mosfet connected, right?

I'm very grateful for your helpfulness.

bro d
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  #1519  
Old 12-15-2012, 12:50 AM
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Hello Donald

[QUOTE=Donald Haas;218507]
Quote:
Originally Posted by prochiro View Post
Donald Haas
Good to see you are making progress and going slowly.

Hi Dana,

I have to wait for a 250k pot to proceed with the basic circuit.

I bread boarded the circuit with 2 LM393's and not seeing anything.

I powered it with 11.5v and scoped it at output and nothing is showing.

The gnd is the input and output neg, right?

I'll try it again with soldering.

I can test this without a mosfet connected, right?

I'm very grateful for your helpfulness.

bro d

Hello Donald,

The output signal from oscillator is very low, as it also changes from High to zero, this will not show on regular meters, and the Scope has to be set at very high sensitivity as very short time display (so you could see the wave bigger)

Am I right...Sir John Stone?


Regards to all


Ufopolitics
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  #1520  
Old 12-15-2012, 05:37 AM
Donald Haas Donald Haas is offline
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cct works now

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;218549]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald Haas View Post


Hello Donald,

The output signal from oscillator is very low, as it also changes from High to zero, this will not show on regular meters, and the Scope has to be set at very high sensitivity as very short time display (so you could see the wave bigger)

Am I right...Sir John Stone?


Regards to all

Ufopolitics
Hi UFO,
That cct from page 12, post 349 looked to me like two comparators, but they are designated 1a and 1b.

It is a double device and when I realized that I'm to use only one in the circuit then it works fine.

One would need to change caps size to get full frequency range.
The off corner of the square wave is very sharp. It drops off with no trace on the scope. The front edge of the wave becomes increasingly round when the frequency is up over 20khz.

Saw 62khz with a 51Pf cap. Saw 1hz with a .101uF cap with a 5m pot.
The duty cycle is adjustable as advertised. 0 to 99.5%.

Enough mosfet gate voltage may be an issue at the extremes.

Runs on 3ma.

bro d
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  #1521  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:34 AM
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Donald
So glad you have it up and working now. Do not use fets on high without proper drivers or your shop will stink.....
Dana
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  #1522  
Old 12-15-2012, 07:33 AM
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Ufopolitics Ufopolitics is offline
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The Electronics Side...

Hello to All,

It's been a while since I do not write here addressing "To all"...
So far I have been responding and helping some members...in their replications...

But I feel it is time I should make a "return" here in a more consistent basis...

We need to talk about the Electronics again...
And I am very glad we all have here such experts like Sir John Stone, a great asset and contributor to this project, and We both already had some talk about this...
I have tried an old transformer charger with the Mecc Alte-Imperial set up today.
It is a "dinosaur" that they still use to charge deep cycle batteries on electric small vehicles and golf carts.

I did not like its spec's

Input: 115V/15.5 A (I liked this side)
Output: 36V/25A (Not this low Amps)

But I still hook it direct by bypassing its electronic circuit that through a relay triggers the mains to turn on Primary on Transformer...this is designed as a safety feature...that will not start charging if batteries are completely dead...so an initial voltage excitement from batteries normally triggers it on...

I plug it from the AC Line 120V to the Motor Input...and it started to run very slow...no sparks on commutators at all...but it gained enough speed...however...it did not reached even the 3000 RPM's...

So, here we go...

We need to come up with some kind of dedicated PSU that will be very "cheap" to run (AC Input wise)...a switching power supply unit...BUT, with higher than 25 Amps out at 36 Volts...and We are talking about and around...80 Amps steady.
This would be our "Transfer Supply Module".

And here I need to address directly Sir John Stone, as others that want to join in and that are great at electronic PSU/Controllers design.

The Design John, could be done as your previous and awesome Modular Concept, where we could consider different Paths to obtain different functions, using the same Main Power Source Module spec's/parameters...meaning: Using same 36V/80A (for instance, but it could be different numbers, I am saying this to play in the High Side rather than on the equal and possible decay factor)...and in a not expensive way derive from here the Robust Transfer Supply Module, The BMS (Battery Management System, which will be also in charge of disconnecting batteries when fully charged from charging...as also directly interconnected with Transfer Supply Module) and the Speed Controller Module.

Resuming:

1-Main Switching Power Supply, low Input Amps, 120V
2-Transfer Switch/Supply Module
3-BMS (Battery Management System)
4-Speed Controller (Pulsed of Course, and connected to a speed sensor attached at back of Motor (they sell those ready to install...no big deal here)

5-A last one and less Important (so far My Motor does not heat up at all,but Generator will, as eventually at long operating hours Motor will also heat up) would be a Temperature Control Unit, that have temp sensors installed at specific locations triggering dedicated small fans to attend/ventilate those areas...similar to a PC Fan Control Unit...that triggers the Hottest or working Hard Drives in a Server...or VPU, or CPU...etc,etc

I know it is not a simple deal...but this (hope not missing something important here, but if I do, we could add it up) would be all we need to make a Universal System that will work not only for an "Auxiliary Energy Generator" but for many other applications this tech could apply to.

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

PD: I almost forget!!...I still need to finish "Tuning Up" My Imperial Motor...and that includes installing the missing brush... ... setting the right connections at output brushes (series instead of parallel) and then checking Output readouts (V&A) with a load on...so we need this Data, to somehow "assist" the Main Power Supply Module at the other "High Generator End"...

Note: I may be adding new stuff here between here and there...so check edits
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:19 AM
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Cornboy 555 Cornboy 555 is offline
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Thanks JOHN.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ufopolitics View Post
Hello to All,

It's been a while since I do not write here addressing "To all"...
So far I have been responding and helping some members...in their replications...

But I feel it is time I should make a "return" here in a more consistent basis...

We need to talk about the Electronics again...
And I am very glad we all have here such experts like Sir John Stone, a great asset and contributor to this project, and We both already had some talk about this...
I have tried an old transformer charger with the Mecc Alte-Imperial set up today.
It is a "dinosaur" that they still use to charge deep cycle batteries on electric small vehicles and golf carts.

I did not like its spec's

Input: 115V/15.5 A (I liked this side)
Output: 36V/25A (Not this low Amps)

But I still hook it direct by bypassing its electronic circuit that through a relay triggers the mains to turn on Primary on Transformer...this is designed as a safety feature...that will not start charging if batteries are completely dead...so an initial voltage excitement from batteries normally triggers it on...

I plug it from the AC Line 120V to the Motor Input...and it started to run very slow...no sparks on commutators at all...but it gained enough speed...however...it did not reached even the 3000 RPM's...

So, here we go...

We need to come up with some kind of dedicated PSU that will be very "cheap" to run (AC Input wise)...a switching power supply unit...BUT, with higher than 25 Amps out at 36 Volts...and We are talking about and around...80 Amps steady.
This would be our "Transfer Supply Module".

And here I need to address directly Sir John Stone, as others that want to join in and that are great at electronic PSU/Controllers design.

The Design John, could be done as your previous and awesome Modular Concept, where we could consider different Paths to obtain different functions, using the same Main Power Source Module spec's/parameters...meaning: Using same 36V/80A (for instance, but it could be different numbers, I am saying this to play in the High Side rather than on the equal and possible decay factor)...and in a not expensive way derive from here the Robust Transfer Supply Module, The BMS (Battery Management System, which will be also in charge of disconnecting batteries when fully charged from charging...as also directly interconnected with Transfer Supply Module) and the Speed Controller Module.

Resuming:

1-Main Switching Power Supply, low Input Amps, 120V
2-Transfer Switch/Supply Module
3-BMS (Battery Management System)
4-Speed Controller (Pulsed of Course, and connected to a speed sensor attached at back of Motor (they sell those ready to install...no big deal here)

5-A last one and less Important (so far My Motor does not heat up at all,but Generator will, as eventually at long operating hours Motor will also heat up) would be a Temperature Control Unit, that have temp sensors installed at specific locations triggering dedicated small fans to attend/ventilate those areas...similar to a PC Fan Control Unit...that triggers the Hottest or working Hard Drives in a Server...or VPU, or CPU...etc,etc

I know it is not a simple deal...but this (hope not missing something important here, but if I do, we could add it up) would be all we need to make a Universal System that will work not only for an "Auxiliary Energy Generator" but for many other applications this tech could apply to.

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

PD: I almost forget!!...I still need to finish "Tuning Up" My Imperial Motor...and that includes installing the missing brush... ... setting the right connections at output brushes (series instead of parallel) and then checking Output readouts (V&A) with a load on...so we need this Data, to somehow "assist" the Main Power Supply Module at the other "High Generator End"...

Note: I may be adding new stuff here between here and there...so check edits


Hello John Stone, UFO, and all,Just beat me UFO, am going to ask JS for help on switching setup for hall sensors.

Don't want to overload EE or maybe short out!!!

Just kidding JS. i know you are made of heavy duty stuff.

Have a bag full of vane sensors, (Hard Ferrite Magnet/Magnets, Hartferrit Magnet, NdFeB Magnet, NdFeB Magnete, SmCo Magnet, Hall current Sensor/transducer, Hall Effect Sensor, Halleffektsensoren, Hallstromsensoren, HKZ101, HKZ121, 2AV16A, 2AV51A, 2AV56) (CYHME301) Any chance you could check out their website and data sheet for sensors and maybe (pretty please) design me a bullet proof circuit for these to switch high power mosfet's for stator electromagnets on MAG3 design.

These are right up my alley as i can precisely machine vane to exactly communicate stators with rotor. also can be mounted on servo adjustable plate for advance and retard in communication with motor load.

Sorry for butting in UFO, just looking forward, now.

Warm Regards, Everybody.

Cornboy.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:24 AM
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D- Head.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornboy 555 View Post
Hello John Stone, UFO, and all,Just beat me UFO, am going to ask JS for help on switching setup for hall sensors.

Don't want to overload EE or maybe short out!!!

Just kidding JS. i know you are made of heavy duty stuff.

Have a bag full of vane sensors, (Hard Ferrite Magnet/Magnets, Hartferrit Magnet, NdFeB Magnet, NdFeB Magnete, SmCo Magnet, Hall current Sensor/transducer, Hall Effect Sensor, Halleffektsensoren, Hallstromsensoren, HKZ101, HKZ121, 2AV16A, 2AV51A, 2AV56) (CYHME301) Any chance you could check out their website and data sheet for sensors and maybe (pretty please) design me a bullet proof circuit for these to switch high power mosfet's for stator electromagnets on MAG3 design.

These are right up my alley as i can precisely machine vane to exactly communicate stators with rotor. also can be mounted on servo adjustable plate for advance and retard in communication with motor load.

Sorry for butting in UFO, just looking forward, now.

Warm Regards, Everybody.

Cornboy.


OOHHH, YEAHHH, forgot PIC.
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Last edited by Cornboy 555; 01-18-2013 at 06:37 AM.
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  #1525  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:09 PM
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JohnStone JohnStone is offline
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Hi Ufo!
I have less time than usual and try to catch up. Just short reply.

1.
What about using your welder. They are made for secure touching the connections. This tells me that we expect a maximum voltage betwen 24 .... 70V. They are made for current but who cares? With the current control you adjust the maximum current in short circuit case only but at same time the voltage on your DC motor.
Some advanced welders exhibit a ignition HV at first touch but this will not disturb your motor.

1.a If you have a DC welder you are ready to go.
1.b If not: you need to build a rectifier bridge out of massie diodes. If you have access to a welder shop they might have such a "pet" as spare part. Else you can buy diodes like used at car alternators. You get them at eBay like these samples or ready made bridges like
these.

Such setups are available wordwide.

2.
For smooth manual control you can build a pulser UFO-style for those amps. But I would suggest to build enhanced FET drivers in order to get less losses. We can talk later on about this.
1a. FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY: rectified AC can be pulsed directly up to 30% duty cycle. This setup can be lethal! Non professionals stay away from this idea!


3.
Don't care about the controller itself. We will use a simple and cheap micro (12$). (Nico! Do you agree?) The program provided can be updated by anybody via USB and some key strokes. So it can start dead simple and everybody can update further enhancements.

3a. For simple use without frequency control it will measure AC voltage and output variable PWM to the pulser.
3b. For true home energy we will measure AC frequency and output PWM to teh pulser. Voltage control needs to be done seperately at the generator head.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:53 PM
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JohnStone JohnStone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornboy 555 View Post
OOHHH, YEAHHH, forgot PIC.
You lucky devil . I wish to live in your neigbourhood in order to team up with you. We could perform incredibly. My mechanic expertise is low level!

So what! Use those hall sensors.
Operate them from 12V

1. Add your opto (only one!) with 1KOhm in series between 12V and output.
2. For more output power add a 1K resistor as pullup and drive the input of a 555. Then drive your optos or wahtever power stage you want up to 200 KHz.

For more details I'd need to know waht exactly you want to perform.
JohnS
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:02 PM
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nico8k nico8k is offline
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Totally Agree!

Yes Sir!, I am totally agree and waiting for instructions

What do you need the Arduino do?

@Ufo No seas un Tano calentón!!! Y deja de responderle a los escépticos idiotas! Jaja Yo tambien soy medio Italiano (Mattícoli mi 2do apellido) y bastante calentón!... pero no lleva a NADA! Abrazo gigante!

Regards to everyone!!

Nico
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:17 PM
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Cornboy 555 Cornboy 555 is offline
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I wish to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnStone View Post
You lucky devil . I wish to live in your neigbourhood in order to team up with you. We could perform incredibly. My mechanic expertise is low level!

So what! Use those hall sensors.
Operate them from 12V

1. Add your opto (only one!) with 1KOhm in series between 12V and output.
2. For more output power add a 1K resistor as pullup and drive the input of a 555. Then drive your optos or wahtever power stage you want up to 200 KHz.

For more details I'd need to know waht exactly you want to perform.
JohnS


Thanks John, I will get back to you.

Regards Cornboy.

PS. Maybe one day soon i will have to shout you a plane ticket.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:25 PM
asollid asollid is offline
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Hello UFO Thanks for directing me to this forum after I watched your U -TUBE about ETERNAL POWER, RE DEFINED 1&2. It took me a month to read all the posts and build a working circuit. I used a coil of 3 ohms wound on a half inchbolt. The oscillator is two 555s. One for frequency (1-200hz) and one for duty cycle. The fet is a IRF 740 and the diodes are MUR460. The batterys are SLA 4ah 12v. CFLs lit up at about 20hz and 50% duty cycle. Then I tried the radio shack 12v motor because i can hear it rev up when i make adjustments. At about 200 hz the little motor sounded like it was going to explode so i tried an electric motor with propeller- that works ok. But not as much rpm. But now I have started to build your bifi coil to the dimensions you specified. I dont have the wire yet(e-bay)but i have built the pvc tube with wooden flanges. Also i have bought two new radio shack motors to build into one asymetrical motor. What i find most fascinating is your "Alien coil". It looks like you have used Xenon tubes insead of FETS. One Xenon tube at each end of the segmented primary coil. By the way, are the primarys bucking or aiding. I kind of suspect they are bucking because that will cause "splatter" of the fields perpendicular to the axis of the primary. And I appreciate your courage to mention the metaphysical qualities of the Radiant Energy. ITS HER!
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:32 PM
asollid asollid is offline
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I forgot to upload this picture
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