Didn't you just start a thread telling everyone about the secret of Kapnze?
I guess you didn't know the secret after all.

I need to order some components to duplicate your original setup, so I am just playing around with what I have sitting around. So I realize this is not an exact duplication, but I do have something astonishing to report about my setup.

I have trashed all my mosfets in other experiments, so I am using some BJT's from a tesla switch experiment I worked on last year. I created the setup you used in your original post with a dead battery as my load. I wound an air coil around a 500ml water bottle with 285 turns of what looks like #24 magnet wire. Inside diameter is about 2" and height is about 2". Diodes are standard as I am using two legs each of two bridge rectifiers. Although I did try some 1N914's that didn't seem to make any difference.

The battery started at 4V as it was a trashed battery I used a year ago in my Telsa Switch experiments. The battery has just been sitting this whole time and was bad last year too. I wanted my Telsa Switch to rejuvenate it, but that never happened.

Anyways, I hooked the setup to a variable power supply and dialed it up to 20V and adjusted my pulse generator to a width and frequency that gave me highest battery terminal voltage with the least amount of current. Battery went to 12.30 volts with 1.1 amps coil load.

I periodically tested how much energy was in the battery by shorting a small gauge wire across its terminals. Initially this resulted in voltage dropping to zero and a minimal amount of yellow and blue sparks. Over about 3 hours the battery seemed to be recovering with more intense discharges and less voltage drop from each previous test. I went to bed and let it run all night (about 7 hours).

I was expecting to see great results in the morning, but was disappointed to find that the batt voltage was only about 12.33V. I tried my short circuit test again and received a very long (1 second duration) and moderate intensity yellow spark. Trying to short immediately again resulted in discharges similar to the day before when I started the test.

I then tried to retune it, but was still coming back to my original settings. My scope showed pulses of about 13-13.5 volts and a DMM hooked to the battery showed about 12.3V. I then continued to periodically short the battery when all of a sudden the voltage on my meter jumped up in the 17-18V range. It is a cheap meter, so I immediately thought my meter was incorrect until I also saw the same thing on my spope with pulse amplitude now reaching 18-24volts. This would only last for about about 10 seconds and then everything dropped back to the readings and pulses I had been seeing since I had started it up the previous day. I was able to get the system to start the high voltage pulses again by shorting the battery as I had been doing. Each time the pulse train would last for about 10 seconds. I could do this over and over and it continued to happen, but since I had the larger pulses, I expected to see larger sparks each time I shorted, but did not. I then decided to vary my pulse width and voltage to see if that made any difference. I did this both before the start of the high voltage pulse train and during it. I found that decreasing my pulse width let the oscillations last longer. And I also realized a lower power supply voltage helped too, but that also decreased the high voltage pulse amplitude. I found that increasing the voltage beyond 20V would not let the system oscillate for more than a few seconds. By bringing the pulse width down slightly at the 20V setting I was able to maintain the oscillations almost indefinitely. I reasoned that I was over-powering the coil.

Once maintained, I just let it charge that battery that way for about 30 minutes, but my short circuit test showed no significant energy in the battery. I originally thought there was a hyper sweet spot I was tuning to that let this happen, but I found that I could vary the frequency during the oscillations without them ceasing - it only affected the amplitude. I continued to vary the frequency and pulse width until the oscillations stopped then I had to short again to start it again. At this point, I was shorting about once every 10 seconds as that was how long it was for me to try and slowly tune before I lost the oscillation. Then all of a sudden shorting it resulted in large yellow discharge similar to one you would get from a fully charged battery. It burned the tip of my wire in two and created welding arcs on the batt terminal. Oscillations did not restart at this point. I restripped my wire and shorted again with the same intense welding arc. Unable to restart oscillation. I could not believe this as it seemed the battery had charged up in just a few seconds. My meter read 12.04 volts. I shorted 4 or 5 more times expecting the arcing to finally run out, but it did not. I then hooked up a car headlight with burned brightly for about 5 minutes with batt voltage holding steady. After that the voltage started dropping steadily for the next few minutes until at 10V I unhooked the light and tried to restart oscillation to recharge the battery, but it would not. I then hooked the light up for 30 minutes and let the battery completely discharge to a few 10ths of a volt hoping that a more dead battery would restart oscillations - did not work.

Currently I have readjusted things exactly the way it was before I went to bed and have the system running hoping to be able to restart the oscillations.

I have no idea why this happened or how to do it again. But if I had not witnessed the "flash" charge of a bad battery (I think it has a bad cell), I would have never believed it.

I have also seen some strange things with my Tesla Switch, like literally blowing the electrolytic caps up on the inverter I was using to make 110V.

If anyone has any insight into what I have observed, how and why it occurred, I am sure that everyone here would be interested to know.

Lenny


Update: the flash charge was an illusion as I later discovered that the battery terminal had a poor connection with a layer of black oxide on it

the oscillations were not an illusion as I later achieved 50+ volt peak oscillations even without the coil or the diodes - just power supply, BJT switch, and battery

the high resistance of the bad connection seemed to be the root of the phenomenon as after I cleaned my connections it would not manifest again

I even tried adding resisters inline, but no luck

The oxide layer between the two lead surfaces might have been forming a capacitor also

I use knowledge of Truck Driver from Ukraine - he talked me to put coil on top of induction cooker and start stream AC 240 volt throu pancake coil to LOAD
that is Secret of Kapanadze//// here is not Kapa Thread so I think your question is offtopic and you - troll or whatewer beast keep away from me
Amen Amen Amen!

My idea of charging batteryes permanenly using scooter is older that this Thread but I like to share it here because this is in main stream of topics
I did exp with coils similiar as UFO politics in 2010 and 2011 it is working! I have pics of that exp anyway!
Here I used bifilar coil 200 wingings and Pulse generator Ne555 to bright a lamp
Best coil for free energy devices | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
This coil and Genrator is still alive and I am able to make short video but I didn get SE here! no secrets! no radiant! it just a lite from bulb that all

Here is schematics part of this i have used in single bifilar coil i have mentioned abowe

Attached Images

Ganzha_back.jpg (14.5 KB, 144 views)

Ufopolitics,

I do believe the technology you have brought forward is paving the way for the new energy source and social transformation that is needed at this time:

2012 may bring the "perfect storm" - solar flares, systems collapse
2012 may bring the "perfect storm" - solar flares, systems collapse - Seattle exopolitics | Examiner.com

"These new energy sources are less vulnerable to destructive solar storms, have no negative environmental impact, and could unleash unprecedented economic and social transformation."

Stay the course and never give up!

IndianaBoys

PS: What you are bringing forth is a novelty:

Novelty =

1. The quality of being new, original, or unusual.
2. A new or unfamiliar thing or experience.

Timewave Zero 2012
Timewave Zero 2012 - YouTube

Terence McKenna's Novelty Theory
Terence McKenna's Novelty Theory - YouTube

Terence McKenna On Novelty
Terence McKenna On Novelty - YouTube

Terence McKenna Timewave Zero Novelty Theory 1/3
Terence McKenna Timewave Zero Novelty Theory 1/3 - YouTube

I hope this is not "old news" now, but I got my oscillator working and I have a video of some cool effects. Although I did not attract metal to the radiant, I found it interesting that the camera had alot of interference, which I am assuming is magnetic interference.

Anyway, he is the video:

558d68e6.mp4 video by machinealive - Photobucket

Hello Machinealive!

Nice!...That is it...you got HER...is the Purple bubbly, wobbly light...
Your camera or mine or anyone can not keep up with Radiant Light...is faster, and spectrum is way different than regular white light..

Notice how you get the orange light also mixed up with the purple...it is the Square wave Up...(orange) and Down..(purple) ....there are points of lower duty you get HER full time...

Nice Rock and Roll Light Show!!...

Thanks


Ufopolitics

John G,

I'm sorry for answering this 2 months later, but...

It seems to me that flat wide CF works much better than making a "wire" of it. It seems to prefer crossing a "wide prairie" than use an "Interstate through a forest" even if the latter is unencumbered. (?) I have not gotten encouraging results using the 1k or 50k "wire" that I have made.

The CF tape comes with a plastic backer on it that is very convenient. Just make sure that there are absolutely NO hairs of the CF shorting across from one wrap to another. As a superconductor, even one little (extremely hard to see) strand can short a whole lot. Also, it is very strong stuff, but brittle and cuts easily. Take care not to have bends that are across sharp corners or sharp surfaces.

Some have expressed concerns about health issues, but the only one that I have seen in print is if CF dust is air born it is considered like asbestos. Someone told me that it doesn't get ejected from the body should it get in, but I see that sort of like glass where the body retains it, but is basically inert. (?) I'm no expert.

Hopes this helps,

Bob

Hello UFO,

Kelly of pdf fame, actually introduced me to your work.I am just at page 4.Plan to read all the post to get me up to date.But I must say I loved this post so far...

Excellent work my friend.Keep it up!

Ged

Hello Gedfire!!

I have seen and read many posts you have written in the Donald Smith Thread...and I like very much your opinions as mainly your cool and nice personality!!...So You are very welcome here my friend!

I am very glad you are reading this thread as I am glad you've liked this post here...but I will be honest with you...it's been so long, and I have been involved lately in so many Motor Diagrams...so many rotations, windings, turns... angles and dynamics in general...that reading myself about a Calmly Solid State set-up...I really do not recall ever writing it...

Just kidding...Welcome Friend


Regards


Ufopolitics

G'Day UFO and All
I finally was able to up load to YouTube It took 3 hours to upload this video

Kogs UFO Happy Motor Circuit - YouTube

I am trying to upload another one Driving my standard My1018 motor

Thanks to you UFO especially for your thread and all YOU others helping me

Kindest Regards


Getting there

Hello Kogs!!

Let me just say it is a great pleasure to see those lamps fully lighting up my dear friend!!

I also watched the Motor Video...is also awesome!!...very low power spent will run that Motor at High RPM's...and cold!!

Now it IS a Happy Kogs Motor!!...

That is the same Motor that Turion converted...the 16 poles...I drew a Diagram for it...and is doing awesome.


Warm regards Dear Friend!!


Ufopolitics

G'Day UFO
Thanks for the I have had that motor and its smaller brother for some years.

For others that have not seen this motor working its here
UFO's Circuit Running a MY1018 - YouTube

As I mentioned before I was hoping to have a Windscreen motor modified by one of my friends so I could wind it assemetrically he has several motors but they are all so different it is difficult for him to put together just the one.
He said he will have one soon

I am looking forward to making /modifying one so I can Fit on my Bicycle as my wife said I spend too much time in front of my computer and she says I need some exercise
Thanks again UFO for staying here to show us
Kindest regards to You All

Hi Ian,

Thank you for your video, it cleared something which bothered me a lot. My setup is running on 24V with just one IRF740 FET and four parallel strands of 22 swg enamelled copper wire wound side by side, over a double layer of 20 swg wire on a 2.5 inch long 2 inch diameter spool. Increasing the Duty Cycle does what your system does and at quite low settings the light output gets to a scary level, giving marked after-images if you look at it.

What bothered me was that increasing the Duty Cycle increases the power output, while my understanding of the theory was that as the cold electricity component is supposed to be fed in the OFF periods, so raising the Duty Cycle should lower the output power and not increase it, but I see that you are getting the same effect as me.

My inner coil half-wave rectified into a capacitor is giving me 116V which I have not yet load tested. Have you tested an inner coil? It would be nice to get this setup self-powered which I believe should be possible.

Patrick

G'Day UFO

Just a bit Extra not shown on the video


I also tried driving the modified RS motor or rather ran it with the large Mosfet driver I used in the videos of course it ran with much less power than the MY1018 I did notice that it was not sparking on the commutator until I was pushing it a bit harder then the sparks came and I decided not to push it any further as I am sure it would distroy it
When I ran the RS motor with a straight connection with the 12v battery it did not spark or just a bit as the commutator I am sure is not worn in yet.

Regards


Still working at it

Great Experiment.
Thanks and Regards

G'Day Patrick
As I understand it the Radiant energy is produced at the instant that the current is switch on and when the current is switch off for a nano second she continues before she dissapates and this is where we capture her.
If the switching of the current is fast say 500 hrtz then She appears to be continual and therefore is usable She is a very versatile as whatever energy is required she can supply it,

Kindest Regards



Kogs @ work

Hey ufo and everyone,

I finally got a chance to download the video of the oscillator build. Mostly, I just wanted to show people with very little skills, what the scope looks like at the different build stages. Its all in one of John Stones post, his driver circuit is there also in another post. One thing, you won't get a reading at output of driver until the fet and load are connected. Remember to tie all grounds together (coil,oscillator, driver).

I've got 4 completed, but something is telling me I need 10.

Ufo, this is a tremendous amount of info for someone like myself, I hope you do not lose patience with me/us.

Here is the link (photobucket is way too slow uploading, wasted hours, I had to open a yt account):

oscillator build - YouTube

UFO expressed an interest in having someone detail their build of the PWM. Since I am just now building mine it was easy enough for me to do just that.
I've only made the oscillator so far and it works great. I will add another similar post when I decide what I'm going to do with the drivers/MOSFETS, I'll be using the 555 drivers.
This build is based upon John Stone's V2 schematic. I believe we also owe MadScientist a thank you for finding this nifty circuit in the 1st place.
Instead of the two LM393 dual opamps that John Stone drew in the schematic I used a single LM339 quad opamp. This works just fine, is probably a bit cheaper and smaller but the pinout is different. This can cause nightmares (first hand knowledge!), so I suggest if you use this information to print out John's schematic, cross out the pin numbers on the U1 and U2 IC's and update them according to this:

EDIT: It seems opportunity for error, this step, I wanted to post a modified version of John Stone's schematic, but he is on vacation and I certainly don't want to do it without his permission. So instead I redrew the schematic and have posted it. Just download that and forget this step. It is very high resolution, doesn't appear well on the Picasa site, but if you download it it will work fine for you. Additionally it has DC voltages marked from a working model.

U1 pin - new LM339 pin
3 - 5
2 - 4
1 - 2
5 - 7
6 - 6
7 - 1

U2 pin - new LM339 pin
3 - 9
2 - 8
1 - 14
5 - 11
6 - 10
7 - 13
Additionally, whereas the LM393's each had power supply connections on pins 4 & 8, you now have only one set of connections on pins 3 (positive) and 12 (ground).
In the photos you will find a "bug ugly" layout that I used for my working model. The layout is almost as ugly as the build, I'm trying to ween myself off of Photoshop to GIMP. Anyhow it does clearly show how to assemble the oscillator as quickly and as painlessly as possible (I hope!).
Sorry, I can't figure out the photo upload thing, but here are the links to the photos in a Picasa album.
Modified schematic
Layout
Component side of board
Solder side of board
Switch detail
Frequency pot detail
Duty cycle pot detail
Actual output
More actual output

Good luck to all future builders!

Hello Larry please consider watching dr Naram's Cancer Cure Parts 1,2,.. Some people found useful. Wish you good luck. He presents in both English and Hindi

Cancer Cure Part 1 - YouTube

Hi Laurent

Nice video, can you confirm which circuit diagram you were using to drive the CFLs?

Regards

John

Hey UFO,

I've enjoyed your asymmetric electrodynamic machine thread so much I thought I would join on this thread too. It's very interesting!! Your willingness to disclose your knowledge so freely is really great!! Thanks!

I've been teaching myself electronics this past year so this will be great test. Hopefully I won't bother you too much with stupid questions.

I'm only on page 14 of reading this thread so I've got a lot to learn before building a circuit.

Cheers,
Vince

Hi John

here is the 555 circuit i have found on the net.

The output (3) of the timer goes through a 470 ohm resistor to the gate of a IRFP460 mosfet.

I have connected a 47 kohm between gate and source to better manage the fet shuting as per UFO shematic
than i connected a diode (1n 5408 ) between source and drain.
Ouups i just see that the 36 volt battery polarity is inverted in my shematic in the video

Finally the timer stage is independantly powered by a 9 volt battery.

Than you can test a lot of different coils at different dutycycle and frequency

as you can tune P1 P2 and C1

Hope this helps

Laurent

Attached Images

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Hello Larry I remembered couple months back listening to People's Pharmacy Radio Prog about Dr. William Coley who was an American bone surgeon and cancer researcher, pioneer of cancer immuno-therapy. I felt I had to tell you. Dr Coley developed a treatment based on provoking an immune response to bacteria by inducing controlled fever under medical supervision. From the program interview, it appears this method is very successful in dealing with even very aggressive cancers which chemo+radiation is unable to deal with. Only recently in America this method has been allowed as alternative treatment on compassionate grounds by normal channels. In Europe it available. Here is the link for further info:

751 Coley's Toxin, Cancer and Immunology Archive - The People's Pharmacy®

You can also listen to the prog. There are audio podcasts. I personally think cancers are caused by bacteria etc rather than the medical science of the main stream unable to really cure it. I hope you and rest of the thread will forgive me for taking time but I had strong feeling this one method must brought be brought to the attention all. Best Regards

Maybe it is me ... Either that or my computer is playing games ... maybe my age is catching up..

Anyone else not able to see all Turion's posts in this thread

AV

Hi

Are you on the correct thread? - I confused this one with the electrodynamic machine tread the other day - maybe age as well!

Regards


John

Hello Dear Patrick!

First I wanted to thank you for the great work you have done (in general) for all the Free Energy Inventors out there!!,
Second to thank you on the excellent work you have done on my Research and Development.

Now, the playing with the Duty Cycle should also be worked out simultaneously with the Frequency, as also should be ideal to be able to raise just the peak voltage output as we lower the duty, however in order to do that the Low Voltage signal, should be isolated from the Fet's Chanel Voltage...

There is exactly a range at very low frequency oscillations where you should get the lamp to go into a very bright white pulsating light, spectrum of purple, green...and white...after that by increasing the frequency and duty starts a process where the light starts going down to normal flickering till you get the high output at increased duty, light goes very bright again...but NOT the same spectrum as before though, as some "yellowish light" shows up...Right there it is NOT a pure Cold Electricity, but a "Mix" of both currents...I have recommended to use second diodes (after ultra-fast ones going to output) based on the small glass 1N4148, to do a better filtering, however, the disadvantage is your DVM's will go "blind" at output...

I still have to come back here and "finish up" this Chapter Disclosure...where I will bring the different Secondaries set up, as also another simple connection to "Enhance" this effect...but I have been very busy with my other Machines thread, however have to do here before I proceed there...

Thanks for posting here my friend, it is an honor to have you around Us!

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

Hi 'UFOpolitics',

Thank you for your kind words and a very big thank you for sharing your knowledge freely with everyone. I am using 1N4148 diodes following the fast and powerful FR607 diodes, but I think I am getting it wrong as the tube doesn't really flash but strikes with a soft yellow glow. CFLs are not common around this neck of the woods, so the tube is a type which has three long U-shaped sections. Another thing is that frequency does not seem to have the slightest effect on the operation other than the light gets choked off eventually if the frequency is raised too much (not obvious at all why that should be). I have been driving the FET with a commercial signal generator on a separate power supply, but I will build a 555 version and do much more testing when I get the opportunity, but like you, I am buried under a sizeable load of other urgent work

Congratulations too on the amount of member participation which you have generated on your Asymmetric Motors forum - very impressive,


Patrick

Hi Ufopolitics, I have followed your excellent work for a while now

It's kind of cool how many of the threads seem to be crossing over lately.


I may be off the mark here but here is a research link Bruce sent out tonight and I just couldn't help but wonder what your opinion is of the patent. I'm not sure how relevant it is to your work, but if you or anyone else hasn't seen it before, you may find it interesting.



Priest Has Motor Run By 'Ion Energy'

Antonio d'Angelo -- Inter-Atomic Ion Motor -- NY Times article & US Patent # 2021177

http://www.rexresearch.com/angelo/us2021177.pdf



Also I wonder if Tesla's motor ties in too?

Brooklyn Eagle
July 10, 1932
Nikola Tesla States:
“I have harnessed the cosmic rays and caused them to operate a motive device. … I have advanced a theory of the cosmic rays and at every step of my investigations I have found it completely justified. The attractive feature of the cosmic rays is their constancy. They shower down on us throughout the whole 24 hours, and if a power plant is developed to use their power it will not require devices for storing energy as would be necessary with devices using wind, tide or sunlight. All of my investigations seem to point to the conclusion that they are small particles, each carrying so small a charge that we are justified in calling them neutrons. They move with great velocity, exceeding that of light. More than 25 years ago I began my efforts to harness the cosmic rays and I can now state that I have succeeded in operating a motive device by means of them. I will tell you in the most general way, the cosmic ray ionizes the air, setting free many charged ions and electrons. These charges are captured in a condenser [capacitor] which is made to discharge through the circuit of the motor. I have hopes of building my motor on a large scale, but circumstances have not been favorable to carrying out my plan.”

Hello Soundiceuk!

And thanks!

That Patent sure looks very interesting...D'Angelo shows very clear wiring and windings there, nice graphics for the "Age" of that Patent!...excellent Artist!...Italian of course...LOL

Machines have dual commutator assemblies at different configurations (similar to mines)...However, if you "follow" the wires they leave upper commutator and then "return"to Upper Commutators next element (Lap Symmetrical Wind)...as so it happens the same way at lower commutators...it is a very similar design to the very Old Dynamo-Motor Machines...
Unfortunately...they are still ruled by the Symmetry...

But can not deny the great Magnetic Patterns that would be created by those very different concepts in windings and overlapping between upper-lower crossed coils.

Thanks for sharing it here!


Regards


Ufopolitics