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 soundiceuk 10-22-2011 11:06 PM

Tesla / Imhotep Radiant Energy Circuit

Hi everyone!

I have been studying Nikola Tesla's amazing work for approximately 11 months.

A few days ago I came across Imhotep's brilliant Radiant Oscillator Lite. I read most of the 80 odd page thread with great interest and gathered that people had started moving onto Joule Thief and Joule Ringer circuits.

It got me thinking very deeply about Tesla's achievements and also Thomas Moray's device.

Tesla's wireless transmission patent's were in applied for in 1897.

I think we need to pay more attention to the Patent 685,957 - Apparatus for the Utilization of Radiant Energy from 1900 & 685,958 - Method of Utilizing of Radiant Energy from 1901.

Tesla Patent 685,957 - Apparatus for the Utilization of Radiant Energy

Tesla Patent 685,958 - Method of Utilizing of Radiant Energy

I have combined Tesla's & Imhotep's work to come up with this circuit:

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...Oscillator.jpg

I am gathering the parts to build the circuit, but have no idea what capacitors to use.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...iantEnergy.jpg

Here's one of Tesla's resonant inductive oscillator circuits they definately didn't want you to see:

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...Oscillator.jpg

 mbrownn 10-23-2011 03:32 AM

First you have to extract the radiant from the environment, its like sitting in a swimming pool and trying to get the water to do something.

To do this we have to disturb the environment with either electrical or magnetic pulses or oscillations to create waves. Once we have a wave the difference between the top and trough of the wave is the maximum potential that can be extracted.

The collection devices Tesla shows can work with many different forms of energy, not just radiant electricity, but I think the principal is this. The waves pass over the collector causing an electrical oscillation in the capacitor, this oscillation is then the source of electrical power for the tank circuit with the magnetism of the coil doing the work.

This can be modified with a diode so that the energy is built up in the capacitor to a higher level before use.

The small devices most of us have built with this patent produce tiny amounts of electricity, so small as to be mostly unpractical to use; however if one of these devices was placed close to something that is disturbing the aether the output would go up dramatically.

If the plate was replaced with a coil, we no longer have to be as close to the source or in direct line of sight but now we are moving onto another of Tesla's patents.

So to sum up, if you are close to something that is disturbing the environment, such as power transmission lines, you could collect a usable amount of energy using these patents for free, if not it will be a small return.

 soundiceuk 10-23-2011 08:33 AM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163401) First you have to extract the radiant from the environment, its like sitting in a swimming pool and trying to get the water to do something.
This is why the collector needs to be negatively charged.

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163401) This can be modified with a diode so that the energy is built up in the capacitor to a higher level before use.
Where would the diode go and what sort of specification capacitor/s and diode do you think would suit the circuit?

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163401) The small devices most of us have built with this patent produce tiny amounts of electricity, so small as to be mostly unpractical to use; however if one of these devices was placed close to something that is disturbing the aether the output would go up dramatically.
Is there a thread on any of these small devices? It would be interesting to know whether they were negatively charged, their surface area and elevation.

I know that the surface area of the collector and its height are very important.

An interesting notion is that the monolith inside a catalytic converter has a surface area of approx 500,000 square meters.

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163401) If the plate was replaced with a coil, we no longer have to be as close to the source or in direct line of sight but now we are moving onto another of Tesla's patents.
There is a lot of surface area on a coil, much more than a plate of the same size.

Which patent do you refer to?

Cheers :cheers:

 mbrownn 10-23-2011 04:35 PM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163412) This is why the collector needs to be negatively charged.
I don't know that it does.

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163412) Where would the diode go and what sort of specification capacitor/s and diode do you think would suit the circuit?
In series with the collector plate and almost any diode will do if your not close to a source of energy. The size of the capacitor would determine how much energy would be stored and how long it takes to charge. Outputs from this system is very small unless you have a huge collector

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163412) Is there a thread on any of these small devices? It would be interesting to know whether they were negatively charged, their surface area and elevation. I know that the surface area of the collector and its height are very important.
There are many you will just have to search the forum till you find them but here are a few
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ire-power.html
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tor-video.html
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...y-circuit.html

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163412) An interesting notion is that the monolith inside a catalytic converter has a surface area of approx 500,000 square meters. There is a lot of surface area on a coil, much more than a plate of the same size. Which patent do you refer to? Cheers :cheers:
All Tesla's patents with reference to transmitting and receiving energy but specifically without wires, The magnifying transmitter is the most talked about.

Remember Inventors never put everything in their patents.

You may find these simple circuits of interest while you learn the principals, but don't expect too much Radiant Energy Aerial Capture (REAC)

If you wish to get more out, Imhoteps radiant oscillator lite maybe your next step. http://d1190995.domaincentral.com.au...html:thumbsup:

 soundiceuk 10-23-2011 09:14 PM

I am a mechanic and autoelectrician, and currently learning electronics :thumbsup:

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163432) I don't know that it does.
FOUND MISSING INFO ON TESLA RADIANT ENERGY PATENT: :p
Update 30 - Found missing info from Tesla Radiant Energy Patent - YouTube

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163432) In series with the collector plate and almost any diode will do if your not close to a source of energy.
So does the diode prevent the oscillaltions of the capacitor travelling upwards and channel the energy down toward earth at a higher voltage?

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163432) The size of the capacitor would determine how much energy would be stored and how long it takes to charge. Outputs from this system is very small unless you have a huge collector
So would the effect of having a TDK High Voltage Ceramic Strontium Titanate Doorknob Capacitor (High Current / Quick discharge) 40KV, 2000 pF attract a large amount of energy to flow through the circuit and energise the load, then just self resonate because I believe it will 100% until it is proved wrong.

 mbrownn 10-24-2011 07:06 AM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163456) I am a mechanic and autoelectrician, and currently learning electronics :thumbsup: FOUND MISSING INFO ON TESLA RADIANT ENERGY PATENT: :p Update 30 - Found missing info from Tesla Radiant Energy Patent - YouTube So does the diode prevent the oscillaltions of the capacitor travelling upwards and channel the energy down toward earth at a higher voltage? So would the effect of having a TDK High Voltage Ceramic Strontium Titanate Doorknob Capacitor (High Current / Quick discharge) 40KV, 2000 pF attract a large amount of energy to flow through the circuit and energise the load, then just self resonate because I believe it will 100% until it is proved wrong. Thanks for the links :cheers:
Your first point is very important, Nice discovery. Extrapolating the principal, if you made a Bedini circuit negatively charged the input from the environment would increase as the dipole created in the circuit would have a greater potential and so would every device using this principal. Excellent:thumbsup:

Pretty much but it will have the effect of creating a dipole allowing more in as your discovery above shows.

With a tank circuit it will oscillate for a while until the energy dissipates but as soon as you draw power from it at a faster rate than it can be replaced it all stops.

Its the dipole that allows the energy in on the negative end by attracting positive radiant, normal circuits only have a momentary dipole, this precharging should allow the positive radiant in as a flow . until the negative charge dissipates. To maintain the precharge as long as possible our circuit must not be earthed. Hmmmmm I need to think about this some more:thinking:

 nueview 10-24-2011 07:27 PM

you might want to look up XEROX copy machine patents this applies to the information you are gathering.

in a xerox copier the paper is charged and then it or the platen is exposed to ultraviolet light and where it is dark it does not remove the charge so that the toner is attracted to the charged areas to form the copy.

i have put intense ultraviolet lights in the presence of electrostatic machines and it does effect there operation even more than humidity.

i have often wondered if this could be used to make it rain as most moisture is suspended in clouds by charge action.
it was just a thought.
Martin

 soundiceuk 10-24-2011 08:01 PM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163516) Your first point is very important, Nice discovery. Extrapolating the principal, if you made a Bedini circuit negatively charged the input from the environment would increase as the dipole created in the circuit would have a greater potential and so would every device using this principal. Excellent:thumbsup:
I don't know much about the Bedini circuit apart from it charges batteries, but yeah crucial information.

I have been trying to find out how to negatively charge a plate and trying to find info about an electrophorus.

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163516) Pretty much but it will have the effect of creating a dipole allowing more in as your discovery above shows.
So putting a diode at the bottom of the circuit too will help also?

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163516) With a tank circuit it will oscillate for a while until the energy dissipates but as soon as you draw power from it at a faster rate than it can be replaced it all stops.
I believe the spark gap in the relay increases the voltage and draws in radiant energy and at the same time will increase the frequency to point of resonance, which will draw in loads more.

I also believe a vacuum tube might work very well instead of the relay too. As would solid state switching.

Quote:
 Originally Posted by mbrownn (Post 163516) Its the dipole that allows the energy in on the negative end by attracting positive radiant, normal circuits only have a momentary dipole, this precharging should allow the positive radiant in as a flow . until the negative charge dissipates. To maintain the precharge as long as possible our circuit must not be earthed. Hmmmmm I need to think about this some more:thinking:
Aren't both ends negative and radiant energy is entering both?

Quote:
 Originally Posted by nueview (Post 163598) you might want to look up XEROX copy machine patents this applies to the information you are gathering. in a xerox copier the paper is charged and then it or the platen is exposed to ultraviolet light and where it is dark it does not remove the charge so that the toner is attracted to the charged areas to form the copy. i have put intense ultraviolet lights in the presence of electrostatic machines and it does effect there operation even more than humidity. i have often wondered if this could be used to make it rain as most moisture is suspended in clouds by charge action. it was just a thought. Martin
Great idea, there must be a best way to charge the plates. Tesla said insulated plates with a dielectric work best in the patent.

Apparently Wilhelm Reich mades clouds dissapear or appear by using a "cloud buster". Later someone else developed a "storm buster".

Cloudbusters and DOR Busters

SO, YOU WANT TO BUILD A CLOUDBUSTER?

Cheers :cheers:

 MonsieurM 10-24-2011 11:07 PM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163456) I am a mechanic and autoelectrician, and currently learning electronics :thumbsup: FOUND MISSING INFO ON TESLA RADIANT ENERGY PATENT: :p Update 30 - Found missing info from Tesla Radiant Energy Patent - YouTube Thanks for the links :cheers:
the book mentioned can be found here :

On the Discharge of Electricity Produced by the Rontgen Rays, and the Effects Produced by These Rays on Dielectrics through Which They Pass (January 1, 1895)

On the Discharge of Electricity Produced by the Rontgen Rays, and the Effects Produced by These Rays on Dielectrics through Which They Pass : Thomson, J. : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive

 mbrownn 10-25-2011 12:40 AM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by soundiceuk (Post 163601) I don't know much about the Bedini circuit apart from it charges batteries, but yeah crucial information. I have been trying to find out how to negatively charge a plate and trying to find info about an electrophorus. So putting a diode at the bottom of the circuit too will help also? I believe the spark gap in the relay increases the voltage and draws in radiant energy and at the same time will increase the frequency to point of resonance, which will draw in loads more. I also believe a vacuum tube might work very well instead of the relay too. As would solid state switching. Aren't both ends negative and radiant energy is entering both? Great idea, there must be a best way to charge the plates. Tesla said insulated plates with a dielectric work best in the patent. Apparently Wilhelm Reich mades clouds dissapear or appear by using a "cloud buster". Later someone else developed a "storm buster". Cloudbusters and DOR Busters SO, YOU WANT TO BUILD A CLOUDBUSTER? Cheers :cheers:
From what I understand, fake nylon fur will charge a plate quite effectively when rubbed. Electrophorus - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Electrophorus

Only one diode is needed in those circuits.

The ends are opposite in charge and it is theorizes that negative radiant enters the positive end. Experiments seem to confirm this and this "negative" energy has different properties causing bigger overunity effects, cooling etc. My experiments with this showed an increase in capacity of a battery before the battery acid crystalized:confused:

 nueview 10-25-2011 12:56 AM

i hope you watch this because it is a very unusual aspect of energy transfer.
i have seen it myself and it can be very powerful when it occurs it can charge batteries very fast and cool them in the process.
Martin

 mcombatti 11-13-2011 12:37 AM

I have been experimenting with Tesla's radiant energy for a while and have some very efficient powerful prototypes...some with ground only, some antenna only, and some with both. The configuration of the circuit is the most crucial part! 500v can be established from a mere 4" 28-guage wire and no ground upto about 1.2 amps continuously!

** I will bookmark this forum (done...)...and take some photos/videos to share how such can be accomplished.

charging of the plate is not all that necessary as it works by extracting radiant "energy" (static, ionized air, and some of the light spectrum) [via antenna] or if when using a ground, the negative potential becomes much greater than at the antenna (earth is dense - potential) and the antenna 'channels' the energy through the system to "complete the dipole."

A diode at the antenna is used as a rectifier (unconventionally) to convert the energy into an electrical charge. An insulated wire works better than an uninsulated, and a one-way insulated sheet of metal (ie aluminum foil glued to cardboard) works even better (more surface area to collect). Although when using a plate, the best connection is at a point where the edges of the plate are closest to equidistance from the antenna connection point (center of the plate).

**Charging of the antenna is really not necessary as insulated wire generally already carries a charge (no matter how hard manufacturers try to counter this)...but if charge is essential to you, create an electret, and connect the positive side to the antenna...thus leaving the negative side free to potentially draw from the 'aetheric' (ionospheric) positive charge.

I will post schematics, pictures, and videos tomorrow (have to throw some together).

If you can grasp the concepts and how to increase efficiency, you have 2 out of 3 secrets (nature of static/ionization & harnessing/condensing into current) revealed to recreating a "testatika machine" (I have and am now in reproduction of an even more efficient model with all machined parts...and it does work!)

 soundiceuk 11-13-2011 02:12 PM

 IczerTesla 11-13-2011 06:29 PM

Hello All.
I have been trying to re-create this invention for a while..
Ive tried to tape foil to cardboard pieces ( like a plate type) Ive tried sawing the bottom off a hollow plastic horse kick ball thing.. round sphere shape with flat panels making up the roundness of the complete ball.. (kinda like a really scaled down Wardenclyffe tower dome)
and now Im using a piece of aluminum plate I borrowed from work which I polished to a mirror like sheen.

My biggest problem is the wiring and electrical know-how.. I have a basic idea of how this concept works.. But I always run into a dead-end when it comes to having it actually work.. plus I have kind of a lot of power lines coming through my yard.. I wouldnt want to count the resonance from the lines as my "radiant energy"

My first attempt I tried to make a Leyden jar as my condenser,capacitor.. but I couldnt even get that to produce a spark.

I was pretty much wondering if anyone would like to offer me some pointer or tips for this device? for instance.. the patent states that the collecting plate should be insulated.. does that mean the whole plate? 1-side? and insulated with what? Im about to use saran-wrap for the "collecting" side of the plate and cardboard as the backing. Anyhow.. any tips either in a PM or on a thread would be very much apprieciated!! thank you all and sorry for the rant. :(

 soundiceuk 11-13-2011 07:36 PM

How to build your own salt water condensors:

 IczerTesla 11-13-2011 07:49 PM

thank you for the link.. they have some good informative videos :)

 mcombatti 11-13-2011 10:40 PM

On Configuration...

Quote:
 Originally Posted by Haan (Post 166782) Hi mcombatti, and welcome to the discussion. please elaborate on the "configuration" and how it is "crucial".

__________________________________________________ ______________
Static electricity includes positive, negative charges, and ionized air (ionization occurs due to sunlight (uv/infrared), weather, seismic activity, solar activity (flares), wind, particles in the air (clouds included)...the entire world is a vast ocean of charges

Configuration
Antenna - rectification of charges (use a full bridge rectifier) -use of a single diode to channel charges is stupid in the fact that if you receive 1000 positive charges and 500 negative..you're charge is now only 500 positives because the dipole has been established, and energy "wasted" an AC rectifier boosts potential. as with the above numbers, the remaining 500 negative can be drawn via the ground (in reality the circuit will "channel" energy necessary out of 'thin air' with or without the ground.

large equipment like car ignition coils and spark plugs waste all the energy before it's been established. (stay with small lossless parts!, the current is only established using pulses, and the HV potential is still too low to approach small parts breakdown point)

MOST IMPORTANTLY - if you live BELOW 2000'...near sea level.... your charge potential is going to be relatively low NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO... I believe the exact number is 1750' (will retrieve reference later)...at which ionization in the air is at it's critical tapping point..

****For the one living near power lines... High Voltage (HV) or High Frequency (HF) can increase ionization in the surrounding air...the point of collecting radiant energy includes these stray HV power lines loss as well (ionized air)... radio waves... seismic waves... pretty much all resonant frequencies trapped in the earths lower layer of air (as they cause the "draw down" from ionization... If you have a plasma ball running in the room...a van de graff, wilmhurst or any 'static/ionizing' devices near (within 20') a radiant collector...you'll notice HUGE amounts of power being collected.

basically... the best way to draw radiant energy is to separate the dipole (+/-) then increase potential on one side of the scale and keep this potential from being "corrected"/balanced... Think of it as a form of osmosis... with a duality struggling to always achieve balance...

Working on the materials to post right now :-) has been a busy day with family from the north. Don't lose faith I'll post them soon (hopefully soon if family stops bugging me :-D):dance:

 mcombatti 11-13-2011 11:46 PM

A quick post

1 Attachment(s)
Here's the circuit for anyone, whether u live within the radiant tapping zone.. It will work... This circuit uses an alpha particle emitter to initiate a forced bias potential on the ground of the circuit (negative resistor ;-))... Pumping/forcing the antenna to draw radiant energy to itself.. Videos and other circuits after when I get the time.. Just couldn't leave you all hanging without something... Here's just something to reproduce and start exploring with a "working" model that can fit in the palm of your hand with no lengthy antennas or grounds.. And actually get more than a meager volt or two...

I present the Portable Radiant Energy Receiver circuit #5 created by myself :-)
Start building...

***note the 100-470 uF caps will be the voltage stoppers.. Use 35v.. You'll get 35 volts.. Use 100.. You'll get 100.. A 555 is not necessary.. But when used causes the "pump" to increase voltage with a resistor on the + side... Faster switching.. More current...

 StweenyA 11-14-2011 12:13 AM

@mcombatti - thanks, that looks very interesting! :thumbsup:

Must caps be electrolytic? You don't show polarity in your circuit.
And must they be HV, as you said above, if you use 35v, you can only get 35v.... will they really work, or was it an example?

Is it a combination of methods, will any one work, or must they all be used together?

And can one simply connect the output circuit to the + and - of your circuit?

Sorry if the questions are silly, I'm not understanding your circuit completely yet, but hope to soon as it looks really promising!

I have already tried simple antenna circuits before, but much much simpler (single diode and cap) etc, and uninsulated antenna, which did not work. :rolleyes:

 mcombatti 11-14-2011 01:33 AM

Quote:
if at first you dont succeed, try it again a different way.

 mcombatti 11-14-2011 02:00 AM

By the way...

A 1N4001 diode or germanium 1N60 or 1N34 have yielded the best results (1N60 in particular ;-)) the lower the voltage drop the better.. Have not tried shottskys

 StweenyA 11-14-2011 02:02 AM

Yes I understand the concept of "don't kill the dipole".
I will try replicating this later, it is already early hours of the morning here, so not trusting myself with HV at this current moment... :rolleyes:

Thanks again for the explanation! cheers for now

 mcombatti 11-14-2011 02:11 AM

Quote:
 Originally Posted by StweenyA (Post 166898) @mcombatti, thanks very much for your reply :thumbsup: Yes I understand the concept of "don't kill the dipole". I will try replicating this later, it is already early hours of the morning here, so not trusting myself with HV at this current moment... :rolleyes: Thanks again for the explanation! cheers for now

Alpha emitters generate low radiation.. The tube will stop it and skin can stop the alpha emissions as well.. DO NOT INJEST AN ALPHA EMITTER. americium can be obtained by getting a cheap smoke detector from a yard sale.. And taking the small bead out of it :-) a little bit goes a long way.. If u have a Geiger counter, you can test other materials... Some granites I've used emit a lot of alpha particles.. Betas and higher can be used.. But then there becomes radiation dangers.. The more surface area of the emitter increases the charge pump activation as well... But too much will blow the circuit :-)

 citfta 11-14-2011 02:13 AM

hi mcombatti,

You have posted some very interesting ideas. Is there enough Americium in a smoke detector to give good results with your circuit? I have a few old ones lying around that no longer work and thought I might give your circuit a try with some of the Americium if I can figure out how to get it out of the smoke detectors. Thanks for the info and looking forward to what ever you can share with us.

Carroll

Sorry I was posting at the same time as you were I guess.

 mcombatti 11-14-2011 03:03 AM

Americium

Quote:
 Originally Posted by citfta (Post 166904) hi mcombatti, You have posted some very interesting ideas. Is there enough Americium in a smoke detector to give good results with your circuit? I have a few old ones lying around that no longer work and thought I might give your circuit a try with some of the Americium if I can figure out how to get it out of the smoke detectors. Thanks for the info and looking forward to what ever you can share with us. Carroll Sorry I was posting at the same time as you were I guess.
Yes the small bit of americium works well.. Its inside the black cylindrical unit.. Usually marked radioactive.. Take the top off the cylinder and/or unsolder it and push it out with a phillips screwdriver. If u find granite.. The black crystalline chunks (uraninite) works well also and is handlable.. But gives off alpha and beta particles.. So as well with this (especially if chipping to break) DO NOT INJEST :-)

 mcombatti 11-14-2011 03:43 AM

Wall plug unit

1 Attachment(s)
Since I don't have time for the video of taking apart the circuit above for tonight, putting it together and demonstrating.. I'll leave you all with a wall plug unit I designed. The black side banana plug is for a ground wire if brought let's say camping :-) and the red banana is the antenna side... When plugged into a wall socket, the ground is the ground of the plug, and the house wiring becomes a very large antenna :-) (brick seems to shield some energy)... The cover (not shown) has a female outlet plugin... This configuration although using grid associated wires.. Does not use inductance or feedback from the grid... Rather uses the house and surrounding power lines as a vast antenna :-)

Oh ya.. The front bananas are for multimiter test leads :-) red +, black -
More to come.

 mcombatti 11-14-2011 03:53 AM

Insulated plate

Quote:
 Originally Posted by IczerTesla (Post 166819) Hello All. I have been trying to re-create this invention for a while.. Ive tried to tape foil to cardboard pieces ( like a plate type) Ive tried sawing the bottom off a hollow plastic horse kick ball thing.. round sphere shape with flat panels making up the roundness of the complete ball.. (kinda like a really scaled down Wardenclyffe tower dome) and now Im using a piece of aluminum plate I borrowed from work which I polished to a mirror like sheen. My biggest problem is the wiring and electrical know-how.. I have a basic idea of how this concept works.. But I always run into a dead-end when it comes to having it actually work.. plus I have kind of a lot of power lines coming through my yard.. I wouldnt want to count the resonance from the lines as my "radiant energy" My first attempt I tried to make a Leyden jar as my condenser,capacitor.. but I couldnt even get that to produce a spark. I was pretty much wondering if anyone would like to offer me some pointer or tips for this device? for instance.. the patent states that the collecting plate should be insulated.. does that mean the whole plate? 1-side? and insulated with what? Im about to use saran-wrap for the "collecting" side of the plate and cardboard as the backing. Anyhow.. any tips either in a PM or on a thread would be very much apprieciated!! thank you all and sorry for the rant. :(
Glue aluminum foil to cardboard, polished or smooth surface is really not important... It's just to prevent neutralizing charges from coming together from each side of the plate (killing the dipole) :-) As for sparkage, unless you're above the 1750' above sea level and have a 200' antenna (which in the US requires permits by the FAA over 100'). It simply won't happen, and the actual energy received will be very disappointing :-) the height of the antenna is to establish a wide potential between + charges (the sky) and - charges (the earth)

 citfta 11-15-2011 02:55 PM

Hi mcombatti,

Does the Americium need to be electrically connected to the ground or just stuck to it with some glue or something? Or does it need to be insulated from the ground? Looking forward to any other interesting circuits you can share with us.

Thanks,

Carroll

 Dave45 11-15-2011 03:23 PM

has anyone sourced the caps?

 citfta 11-15-2011 03:38 PM

Hi Dave45,

I already have the caps I plan to use but they should be available almost anywhere. Even Radio Shack should have something that will work. Although for higher voltage ones you would probably need to go to one of the online suppliers like Mouser or Digikey or Jameco. I have some 180 uf 450 volt caps I got from Ebay that I am going to use for the electrolytic caps.

Carroll

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