Hello Tesluh,

There are some things to know before giving some advice with a 12V deep cycle.

Like the weight of the deep cycle versus the two OEM batteries adding 24V...?

What kind of motor does it have?...BLDC or Brushed...?

What type of controller derives from the above motor type?

If the weight of one deep cycle is less than the two OEM (I doubt it, though)...then it would be ok...but still depends upon motor-controller type to make the conversion.

If it is a Brushed type would be easier...but a brushless brings a specific controller...which only would run with proper Volts-Amps...

A Brushed Motor could be modified to run on 12V by reducing the amount of wire turns on rotor to about half of what it has now...unless its rotor winds are epoxied which would make it more difficult.

A Boost converter would rise voltage but would reduce amps...and so depending on OEM running amperage versus deep cycle amps hours...it could or could not be done.

Hope this was helpful...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thank you, I'm guessing its a brushed motor, would rather not disassemble it to find out, the original batteries are like back up UPS batteries, the marine deep cycle I want to use is about 6 times the size.

Would either of these have a chance of working?

1200W DC-DC Boost Converter Power Supply 8-60V 12V Step up to 12-83V 24V 48 #VIC | eBay

Waterproof DC 12V to 24V 10A 240W Step-up DC-DC Converter Regulator Boost Module | eBay

the motor is labeled my1016 250w at 24v dc and says its a brush motor

going to get a 360w boost converter and see if it does the trick

NEW BIG-SIZE Waterproof DC 12V Step-up to 24V 15A 360W Boost Converter Regulator | eBay

Careful

That will pull double the amps so wire it accordingly or fizzle.

thay

Hello Tesluh,

Yes, your guess was good, it is a Brushed Motor, 16 poles, four stators, four brushes.

The only killer I see is the volume-weight ratio of the deep cycle which should be over six times greater than OEM Batteries, adding all that weight to motor plus driver weight. However, the good thing is the life and operating duty of a deep cycle which is greater than any smaller or other type batteries.

I particularly do not like the first two boosters...they have "range input" plus "range output", which goes too wide like from 12V to 83V In...and out 24-48V and normally they are designed to work with low duty applications...do not see robust FET's there with heat sinks...for example.

The third one (360W) would be your best choice...more robust, heat sink, etc...plus accurate, specific (not ranged) Input-Output.

Your Motor is a 24V 250W, which means it draws 10.41 Amps approx...however, that amp draw may increase when loaded...so, it is better to go a bit above wattage to play safe with a 360W Booster.

I would put a 15A inline fuse between motor and booster (in just one of the two wires going to motor) so you do not fry booster because motor is demanding higher than 15 A from source, when all weight is loaded...if it blows that fuse means motor is requesting higher than 15A...and longer running time may toast your booster.

Put the booster in a ventilated area, like front of the bike...and keep checking temp as it is driven...


Good luck and happy biking



Ufopolitics