Splitting The Positive
 

This thread will be for beginners who never witnessed the
BASIC FREE ENERGY circuit as shown by John Bedini.

After we understand this portion of the study we can
move on to a more complex study with additional feature
that can result in an even higher COP.

First we will look at the most basic function of splitting
the positive to show how easy it is to use energy by
recirculation.

Some who claim advanced status can not verify these
simple results, what does that mean? It means that
many are not as advanced as they might like everyone
to think.

I am trying to learn this myself and I think this video
is quite clear so I have come aside to post video's
on splitting the positive or what I think qualifies as
"SPLITTING THE POSITIVE.

I didn't want to cludder up Turion's more advanced thread
with these beginner video's. Many experimenters, including
Dave and Matt have shared these basic ideas.

If the video's I post are incorrect I am sure the advanced
students with point this out.

All of this said so that this foundational concept can be verified
in spite failed attempts by "SO CALLED" "ADEPTS"? :rofl:

We can't leave out the HV to LV type of "SPLITTING THE POS..."

By EV Gray

You are not going to understand it all yet. Stay tuned.:thumbsup:

Take One--------------SPLIT THAT POS............

Take Two:D

But who really understands what he is doing with the ENERGIZER/Genny?

Diagrams

http://www.icestuff.com/~energy21/splitting.gif

Hi mike, thanks for sharing.
This works also.
The load in-line with series cap. dump, may need to be tuned though, to allow for similar discharge and charge voltage drops and gains in battery.
I had to change my circuit to 2 bulbs in parallel there, as originally it worked fine with one, until it blew and maybe that bulb had somewhat different values than the other 12 volt bulb.
peace love light

http://i.imgur.com/K8e0NHF.jpg

other side
 

That's the right diagram as far as what Bedini originally showed but in the first video you posted, he is putting the load of the light and motor between the negatives instead of between the positives. At least, that is what it looks like.

Aaron you are correct, the light is between the negatives and the DC motor is across the single 12 volt battery. I did it like that because it worked both ways.

Dave Wing

splitting the negative?
 

Hi Dave,

Was that you vid?

If you place the bulb between the negatives, the current still moves in the same direction. You could almost call it splitting the negative but it doesn't change anything. There are variations of different circuits that use the differential between the negatives but is not identical to this 3 battery method - I'll share one at the conference, which is based on an obscure patent that nobody seems to know about.

It is hard to find much at all on this subject. No I didn't
spot that he was using the negative. Thanks guys, I am digging
for gold but very little exists on the subject:thinking:

http://www.icestuff.com/~energy21/battery.htm

http://image.slidesharecdn.com/lamar...?cb=1326534705

My Experiments with the above circuit.

Please note I believe the experiment was first performed by John Bedini
John Bedini's website

I first heard of it from I first heard of it from Jerry Decker Keelynet website.

Components

3 six volt batteries and connect as in diagram as above.

One everyready industrial 6 volt battery

And two cheaper sweda brand 6 volt batteries.

I doubt batteries brand make any difference.

One filament lamb globe rated at six volts.

Day one

Connected batteries as per circuit.

Although the diagram does not seem to make sense the bulbs are actually connected to positive terminals.

The lamp globe lit brightly for approximately one hour and then began to dim gradually and continued to do so.

I left the light bulb connected for approximately for four hrs from 6.30pm to 10 .30 pm

I though that by disconnecting batteries and rearranged them I could get more power out.

Found bottom 6 volt battery total dead and was unable to continue the experiment.

Day Two

Replaced the apparently dead battery and tried the experiment again

The globe glowed bright for approximately 1 hr and then started to dim as per day one..

I left the globe in placed and there was a glow of decreasing intensity for 24 hrs and then the small glow present in lamp was unable to be observed coming from the light bulb....

Disconnected all batteries and left for 6 hours. Overnight.

The batteries were placed on top of a 51 cm TV and the Television in standby mode overnight.

No discernable connection was made between batteries and the TV

Day Three

Tested all batteries separately and found all still held a good charge and lit the 6 volt globe. when connected across each of the battery terminals in turn..

I expected to find one battery total dead as per first day.

Two batteries glowed the bulb to a lesser degree than the third battery.

Reconnected batteries in the same circuit as before and at present observing reasonable bright glow.

Will see how long the globe will remain lit.
Day Four
The batteries combination and globe has been lit from 8.30pm until 2.00 am the next morning the brigthness of globe seemed not to dim and remained at constant intensity.

By touching the light bulb with hand does not seem to be heating up as is normal with ordinary bulb and touch battery setup.

The colour given off by light bulb seems to more of a copper red light and not the normal white bright light.

These claims are difficult to prove as I have no light measuring apparutus to make accurate measurements.

I awoke at 2.am and found the brightness had decreased and so I disconnected the light globe from circuit at this time and checked one battery and it seemed dead.

I have also noticed interference appearing on a television set nearby (approx 2 feet away) during operation of said circuit.

The interfernce does not seemed to affect our local transmitters reception situated approx 5 kilometers away from us.

But seems very pronounced on TV channels on distant channel reception on channels 7 9 and 10 The picture and reception on these channel is almost crystal clear but an annoying cracking noise and a pattern that could be caused by a high voltage discharge or a faulty switching faulty relay seems to be causing the interference,both which we don't have here.

It seems to have effected reception on channel 9 the greatest

To receive the distant TV channels we have 60 foot antenna and booster equipment and this normally enables reception on most but not all nights a good reception from these distant TV transmitters.

The three channels are located in our state capital Adeliade approx 200 kilometers from us although the distance is propably shorter cross country.

Channel seven has frenquency of 181-188 megahertz
channel nine has a frequency of 195-202 megaherts
channel ten has a frequency of 209-216 megahertz

Australian TV stations are transmitted in The Pal format.

The television set mentioned is a 51 cm Panasonic TV.

Day 5
At approx ten am following morning checked all batteries with light globe placed on each individual terminal an again and found all batteries have a charge enough to put out normal white glow of bulb.

The white light from each battery does not seem to have been reduced in strength from previous day

Reconnected circuit as before and found globe is still glowing although brightness is not as great as previous day and seems to be only a pin pick at centre of filament.

after three hours the globe is still burning
Day Six and seven

It appears my observation that the battery setup was causing interference to the TV of previous day was incorrect.

The batteries were not connected for some time and interference has continued so it seems interference is coming from some other source.

The battery circuit is now only glowing very dimly and so was disconnected,

I connected the three batteries in parallel and left for six hours without a load across terminals.

Connected batteries as per circuit illustration above and bulb again glowed for approx 7 hrs and as so went dim gradually again.

Disconnected the batteries and left to stand for 8 hrs.

Recharged battery in parallel setup again for 6 hrs

Tested the Blue battery by itself by connecting globe across blue battery (in photo) terminals and tested to see how long battery and globe together glowed.

The result the lightbulb glowed for approxiamately 6 hrs and gradually reduced light output strength over this time period until battery seemed exhausted.

Tried to recharge battry using parallel connection as previously mentioned. result not encouraging and now consider this battery is know totally dead and useless.

The other two batteries remain still holding a charge and the light bulb glows about 1/3- 1/2 strength of brightness when placed across each set of battery terminals as compared to when the batteries were brand new.

Experiment has now concluded.

From my observation it seems that something interesting is happening

Normally I would have expected all batteries to be totally dead after 6-12 hrs but this was not the case.

What I�m not sure ,but I encourage you to the experiment for yourself.

If you have performed this experiment yourself I would like to know what your results were.

Author of this article

Please make copy of article and pass it around to intereted friends media etc

Geoff

If anyone is interested I found a diagram to help with these
experiments where series parallel connections are made for
running and for charging.

So you can switch back and forth. These picture form diagrams
reveal trolling motor setups already in use as 3 battery systems
so this is a practical test in a boat for all who have the extra
small batteries and a boat.

These 3 battery systems are tapped into the negative and could
just as easily be arranged for split Pos...... Operations

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...ery542x183.png

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...ery646x210.png

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...ple592x227.png

Test one

Test one should be done with all batteries in parallel with
measurements done as shown. 1 amp at 13vdc and declining
equally 13 watts 13 joules per second or 13 X 60 seconds=
780 joules per minute.

Remove amp gauge during runs, only use at periodic intervals
because ammeters eat power and have an energy consumption
curve all of their own. We want a less complex calculation.

Then record how long it takes to drop the battery voltage to 11 vdc
under load which would probably be a 12vdc battery resting voltage, for
a fully discharged battery pack.

Record runtime.



Test Two

Test two run batteries down to 22dvc collectively on the right
side or the 26vdc fully charged bank.

Record the runtime.

Test number two should show a marked increase in runtime as all
energy in the loop is being used to charger the single 13vdc battery
on the left as well as power the load.

The only discrepancies will be

#1) Over charging and losing power in the first single 13vdc battery
thru resistance and over heating so make sure it is a big enough
battery and the load being powered is small

#2) Also monitoring of relative brightness from hour to hour during
cycle times, measure voltage dropping off curve.

If you know your battery as i have been taught by the best
John Bedini, you will know one way or another if you are gaining
any advantage by counting JOULES.

Batteries discharge X amount of joules per second or minute
count your many joules they are like blessings.:blowout:

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/splitpos1.jpg

Test Three in this case is using the split pos...... evolution with
a boost converter at the Motor (Not a light as in test 1 &2)

We have the advantage by have a bug in our ear to correct us;)

Gotta have a booster when running small motors.:thumbsup:

I love to copy answers off the next guys page. Sweet.

Now I feel like a cheat!!:blowout: I really never thought about

hooking my boosters up with 2 positives, that is against book

smarts you know.




http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/splitpos2.jpg

Testing
 

I have tested several different boost converters. Their efficiency ranges from 87-98% efficiency, so choose wisely when selecting one. We have posted the correct wiring schematic for the boost converter several times. A standard boost converter has a positive and negative in and a positive and negative out. So there are four wires, NOT two as you have shown here.

A COP>1 device is possible with average components. Matt's motor raises the COP. A more efficient boost converter raises the COP. ADJUSTING the output Of the boost converter raises the COP. Having rested batteries to rotate into the setup raises the COP. Batteries that have been charged OR discharged like to rest before you mess with them. We have gone over ALL of this before but no one listens. Hope you have better luck.

Thanks that is what I am doing right now "Brain storming booster converter"
connection diagrams for my SSSG which is already a very high COP device.
Thanks 4 that be right back with your diagram and Matts motor info.:thumbsup:

I will begin to dump circuits here BRB




http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/splitpos4.jpg

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach..._153506654-jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...psdu0i31lc.png

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-AsAAO...566/s-l500.jpg

Info
 

Do NOT run loads between the negatives. In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your batteries.

Yeah Aaron that is my video... It is an older vid. Good to hear your going to share more of your work.

Dave Wing

I read that explanation from Matt... I have not seen that myself, but I do not discount what Matt says either.

Dave Wing

Wiring diagram
 

Which wiring diagram are you unable to find.... the one for the motor modification or the one for the boost module circuit?

Okay I watched Matt's video's on motor windings again
I must be getting old and forgetful the video's were
there since last year and I watched some of it then
but not all till now.

Here is a rough draft of what I think he said.

Basically he made a 2 pole motor I think by putting
3 coils as one pole then another set 180 degrees opposite
each other.

The starting coil in the center is 40 turns CW direction
looking down onto the I post.

Next bigger coil is same direction 30 turns

Next bigger coil same direction 30 turns for a total
of 100 turns.

Follow his video's for better overall clarity such as
the balancing or using epoxy to hold windings
tightly.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/3mtrcoil.jpg

There you are. Both but I think I have the motor.

The boost I could guess.:mad:

Post 969
 

Post 969 In the Basic Free Energy Device thread has a link to the pdf of building the motor as well as a link to the schematic of the boost converter.

Gotcha Great Video big gains.

I redid my drawing. I remembered somewhere the motor cannot be
loaded down and that it functions primarily as would a pulse
circuit? In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating
shaft is a nominal loss?

Is this correct? Or can the motor turn a generator if it is
really really small? I know you guys are getting sick of repeats
but eventually once we get past the emotional trauma of
personality conflicts the facts will go down much better.:blowout::thumbsup::)

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/3mtrcoil.jpg

Torque
 

It has enough torque to run s generator and can run at higher voltage than the standard motor.

[QUOTE=BroMikey;289200][SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

Is this correct?

BroMikey,
If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives! :thumbsup:

[QUOTE=pmazz850;289207]Thanks MAN keep me on track.

OMG I am grinding off the old winding, does that stuff
stink to high heaven.:eek::mad::p

That stuff is the worst.:p

It's comin round. The video's Matt posted saved me a
bunch of rewinding cause of the bearing and housing
may have touched so you need to leave the winding
a little slack so you can push it around flat.

If you wrap it to tight right down by the bearing and try
to pry it up later it might break the wires but mine came out
right in the first shot.

My motor was brand new and was somehow shorted out
smoking the windings. It is the same as my old 24v motor
cage but was wrapped with very very fine wire to run at
36vdc.

I had a big roll of 20awg and seeins how I had so much
extra room inside this cage and my wire bein so much thicker
I went to

50 turns first coil

40 turns middle coil

40 turns outside coil.

It's a bit bigger motor maybe by a few millimeters.

I used a die grinder wheel in an electric grinder like
Matt used to chop off the side opposite the commutator
and used a pin to tap the windings out.

Don't forget to clip your wires on the commutator.

Plenty of room on this one to clear the wire.

It took me a grand total of less than an hour so far to
cut off the old windings and rewind.

Gonna probably use my jewelers torch to silfos maybe we will
see what I think as far as getting the wires connected to the
commutator.

Gotsta git me some apoxy but eyes workin on it. I lived in Sc
7 years and all my old slang is coming back to me.:)

Texas was alot of fun too.;) Nevada, CA. FL :D

It's all the same thing, plenty of good folks everywhere.

.:thumbsup:

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/matttswmtr1.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/matttswmtr2.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/matttswmtr3.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/matttswmtr4.jpg


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http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/matttswmtr6.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/matttswmtr7.jpg

Motor Winding Coatings

I would like to share an experiment with resin hardeners I did
30 years ago. It saved me and still does money. It seems like
every time I turn around I am needing more resins to be hardened
to perform a given task.

I couldn't find the same picture of my can but as soon as I start
snapping shots I will show you what it looks like exactly. It is a quart
can just like this one that is sold at car paint counters for super
high prices but if you know what to ask for you can get the one I
always buy for around $15-$20 per quart at Sherwin Williams.

Ask for High Solids Polyurethane hardener B60V30 the B in the
number sequence stand for PART B. They will also sell you
a one gallon can of paint to go with that of polyurethane (Part A)
for about $200, just say "NO THANK YOU" it is a game the
chemists play getting you to buy the same thing for far more.

Now you have it all in your hand, this stuff at 10 percent
to 20 percent will harden up any cheap resins of POLYURETHANE
clear coat. After about 2-3 hours it turns to a gel so you have
that much time to let it set up as it gets thicker and thicker.

I like slow, slow is the best quality for bout anything you are doing
whether filling, clear coatings or adding white tint to paint it is tough
and long lasting.

I bought a 1 gal. can of the clear poly on sale for $20 today and I
have had the hardener for a few years. I bought the hardener from
many Sherwin stores.

It takes 16 hours to get hard and after 2-3 days it turns to a glass
hard material. You will not be able to get your thumb nail into the
surface, it is that hard.

It really is toxic stuff so ventilate well if you want to live. After a few
hours the odor dissipates but that initial set time gives off the smell
of model airplane glue that will knock your sockets off.

The thing I like about it is it takes a long long long time to set
completely and while I work I like to put it on runny getting
super penetration into the smallest areas, then 30 minutes
later another coat from the same mix and after an hour
til you can spread it like peanut butter filling huge openings
if need be.

It is a metal can quart size similar to this one only these
guys removed the label and sell the same stuff for $100.
Because you don't know what to ask for the consultants
hold the knowledge over your head, telling you of course
that it may not work and so forth. Ignore them.

Look for the number B60V30 below and now you can harden
up commonly available Poly resins found at your near by hardware.

I have used many epoxies and fiberglass resins that went into
an exothermic heated reaction that went to fast or even stuff
that peals off like garbage, not this stuff. Even the thinnest
amount walked on for years will not peal, this speaks about
adhesion.

I have covered floors and cars with this stuff or bikes or anything
that I wanted to come out like powder coat and it is indestructible
like stuff for out door decks.

I have used it at temps over 400 degrees and it doesn't blink.

Use a breathing mask with pumped in air from the outside like I do,
for jobs inside when coating takes to long or your lungs will be
stuck to your brain. It is that bad.:)

Be careful and you will be glad.




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