I like to think of the difference as the core adding resistance to the current. Once I think about that and what it all means, most everything else falls into place including, yes, frequency...



A lot will depend on the battery you are charging. some will charge better with a big fat spike and the added current a core will provide and some will appreciate the high freq.

many people claim this type of charging in general will dry up gel types.
So really, this is one of the most simple things you can find out on your own as the core can be added and removed very easily. Do this and you will find out what your batteries like best.

to put it simply, when you add transistors and shorten the wire, your charging will happen faster as you will get more spikes and more current. The size/width of the wire also plays a factor, the fatter and shorter, the more current is allowed through and the battery will charge faster. So the trick is finding the right balance, we wouldn't want to use a single turn of AWG 1 ...

One sorta has to run it down in sequence for the bedini coil with or without a core.

The first thing to get is what happens to a coils characteristics when you insert a core?

The coils own traits are influenced by this thing put on its axis of alignment but that is not electrically connected to the coil. Just that "locality" and "placement" cause the things change of state of its own natural characteristics.

The main thing that happens is the coils inductance Changes, Generally INCREASING in inductance, when you add a Core to it. Depending on how the cores configured, Rods, laminates, lump iron, determines how much of a change that inserted core will cause on the coils inductance, with generally the more divided the core, the higher the shift in inductance should result.

What this also means is that the cores going to Down shift the frequency because as the core is inserted, and inductance goes up, the Time Constants that apply to DC on coils also then Go up... meaning more time for each part of the Action to happen within.

A Truth is that batteries need CURRENT with their Volts to Charge, generally. How much current is generally a function of what the batteries amp hour rating is. Gel cells are usually bad batteries to charge with this tech as the gels will have the water evaporated out of them if they are overcharged for a long period rendering them junk.

In general when bedini went to the SS SG he then introduced a 555 timer on the output so that the output from the higher frequency charging side could be let out at a 5-15hz rate in the batteries being charged.

If you haven't already snagged a copy bedini/bearden wrote a book called Free Energy Generation at cheniere.org that shares multiple types of circuits one can build and study to see how they work. They're all some sort of step down charger, taking whatever potential from varied sources into a capacity and then discharging that capacity into whatever load, batteries or lamps or whatever.

Anyways hopefully thats helpful.
Cheers,
Gene

Ricards,

You might check out the Velleman hps10 o-scope... its usually about a 100 bux and is a cheapy digital scope that can take some abuse. I'd know as I've been thru 4 of them... my first scope was a tek 475, which I burned the graticule out trying to look at voltages that the thing couldn't support.

Then I got the velleman as I couldn't keep passing 400-500 bux out for older analog scopes. I once got the SE version, which was then burned up and went back to just the basic one since I like to play with high voltage.

Maybe check that out and see if its within your range of affordability. Its pretty helpful to have a scope to be able to look at whats happening in the circuits signals directly...

Cheers,
Gene

Thanks for the information and tips.. I have tried numerous setups with what I have... assemble and disassemble.. and learned a lot.. recently I have rebuilt my coils into 6 transistor using MJE13009, however i was not able to self oscillate it with only MJE13009, as the trigger coil's current was not enough.

I have read somewhere in this forum about using Reed Switch to trigger... I have also tried that and fried it after a couple of hours

Then I thought of replacing the reed switch with my 2N3055 that was from the my original circuit(1st build). and it worked. making it into a "Darlington" transistor.
quite happy with the results... I am able to turn the circuit on and watch the orange neon turn purple and hear sound from *tssscchhh* to *iiiinnnngggg* without burning transistors.

After days of research and trial and error, I finally understand what you guys meant (did not really understand a lot of terms in the explanations at first ) thanks again..