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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #2851  
Old 02-14-2012, 04:16 AM
cgalvisardila cgalvisardila is offline
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Hi all, i have been following the progress of this group and building a lot of cells myself, i have to say, im amazed by the collective research that's going on with the crystal cells, im sure it would take 20 or more years of research to come up with the results i have so far after barely a month of work...this is going to do a great good, please lets keep up. im not even a scientist, im a musician but i am very interested in learning as much as i can, i dream of taking this tecnology to he indians in the amazon, i have very close friends there among the tribes and they have to spend the little money they have in gasoline to run generators for when they need power. i dream of the day when i can take some lamps powered by crystals to the jungle and teach them how to do it themselves, and free them from this expense. i think that's the great treasure in all the technologies of free energy... SHARING... please dont let "them" buy you off. to john b. and all of the more experienced inventors, i pay my deepest respect, i am aware of the risk you take... and i hope to see john hutchinson posting also in this forum.

i guess the best i can do now is also share my tiny findings so far... ive seen that fausto's mix has given me the best results, but when the cell dies its hard to activate it again, watering it again does help but each time less and less, maybe has to do something with the amonia release that corrodes the cell... this is a behavior i've seen in alum before, not in the epsom/rochelle mix though, with this bundle the cells come back to life every time consistently... so i tried the same acivated carbon+powdered sodium silicate, but with epsom+rochelle, also with a little quartz,found that no amonia is released when watered. once activated with water, the initial power output is nearly the same (around 1.5v-20Ma) and holds for a good 4 days or so at around 5 Ma which i think is amazing, they keep my LEDs bright all the time. one of them has been 6 days now at 5 Ma, yet they drop if you keep them loaded. ive seen that putting them off load for a while charges them for some reason, then i put them back on load and show around 5 Ma again. after a day or so under load they go back down to less than 1Ma. i just watered it again and it went back to life at around 5Ma... ill have to wait and see if this is consistent. only a drop or two are necesary. i also saw that when you mix the rochelle+epsom (finely grinded) they inmediately start soaking water from the air and go from a fine dust to moist lumps in a matter of seconds, i wonder if this effect is whats powering those dry cells you've been discussing about... i guess that if this is consistent, then the life of the battery is now dependent on the corrosive factor... i also added a little limestone in powder form, it retains the water very well... do it yourself, water some powdered limestone and see that it takes forever to dry. ok, thanks for sharing, my name is carlos, nice to meet you all... cheers
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  #2852  
Old 02-14-2012, 05:58 AM
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John H Crystal Cells

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
@John B., just want to know if there's a noticeable difference in power output between a John Hutchison cell and your cells? Because I watched this DIY video and there's some differences in the making. Ex: The coating of sodium silicate on the copper (the copper not seems to be oxidized)?, the couple seconds tickle charge?, the silver dust?, the importance of cylindrical shape for output power? ( ok, understandable for this one..). For the doping agents, the only difference is maybe tourmaline (she don't seems to talk about this one). Thanks helping me to clearify this. How to build a Hutchison Power Cell !!!! - YouTube
CDM,
The crystal batteries are quite different. You have John H who uses just about every material including garden variety rocks. The Sodium Silicate
your indicating here is just plain water glass, nothing special about that.
The cell does work as stated with small amounts of power.

The Silver filings, Glena, Iron Pyrite is real common here and the cell performs without the mix. Then you have Marcus Reid Cells that use something completely different and I can not speak about them, except they keep on working at 2Ma and that is all the power they developed.Then you have what we all are working on in different forms here.
Do not let the disagreements distract you as this is all a learning process. The group did do all the experiments early on as you can read from the beginning. Welcome....
John B
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  #2853  
Old 02-14-2012, 06:17 AM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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It's a real pleasure to meet you John, Ive been watching a lot of your work in the past couple of years and you opened my eyes on something very strange but beautiful. Yeah I agree it's a learning process. All the ingredients are coming by mail soon. I started experimenting with alum a year ago but now that I received the rochelle salts, I do all the tests I can do to understand the different effects of each product alone. For now, I decided to heat the iron tubes (I had cheap magnesium fire starter sticks, not good) I have before puting the rochelle salts in to see if treated like that it will act differently. It does so...I activated the cells about 7 hours ago and the leds were not as bright as now (No load was powered when drying). I will let this dry out for a good 12-24 hours to see if something build up to give better output. Will see!
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  #2854  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:28 AM
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Testing --testing ---- and more testing.

@All
I continue to test the Hydrate cell and others that I have running things. It just take alot of time. Most of us in this group now have cells that will retain a voltage for a long time----some of mine are well over a year old now. It is now a quest for the ellusive lasting amperage that is hard. I am beginning to see strong cells that last longer by using the correct chemicals and electrodes.

I am now wondering if we should be looking into homemade rechargeable cells that don't need dangerous acids or bases and are "kitchen table" buildable. To me that would be a fun new project. There are plans for lead acid one in The Boy Electrician book.

Lidmotor

PS--
@ Plengo
I made one of your small copper cup, carbon, and Mg cells today and that little guy is sure strong ---at least when it is new.
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  #2855  
Old 02-14-2012, 10:17 AM
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I only made the cement cell that JB told us about early on in this thread. I have
been away from home working for most of the last year. I did not have much internet access where I was. So I have not been able to follow this thread as well as I would have liked to. There seems to have been a lot of progress here.

@ Lidmotor could you tell us which cells were the better ones that are
holding up better than the others ?


George
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  #2856  
Old 02-14-2012, 03:59 PM
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Mikrovolt and All:
I read the two attachments that you posted concerning the depolarizer, and carbon/Mg0 cells. There looks to be no easy fix in sight, as the chemistry gets more involved each day.
I'm very disappointed that even my dry carbon/quartz cells are being contaminated by the hydrogen gas. Even when the cell is sealed, it looks like the solution to the oxidation problem is not simple. As it will involve making the semiconductor layer on both the copper and aluminum/or Mg., as well as the use of the depolarizer, and then testing to see how long the cells will last. As the cells need to vent, and as they vent the outside air (oxygen) will get into the salt electrolyte, and combine to form more water, and even with the protective oxide layers or even with the depolarizer the metals will probably start to dissolve, in time. Time will tell, as it did with my dry carbon cells. How well the depolarizer will function, to absorb the released hydrogen gases, and for how long is not known, yet.

As things are getting more and more complicated this leads me to think that it may just be easier to buy and use regular Lithium, Lead acid, or other rechargeable batteries instead. As we are not really able to do much with low current cells, that tend to self-destruct in a short time span. Or not???
I'm really interested in a perpetual output DRY cell, as this whole wet process is getting closer and closer to regular liquid electrolyte batteries, but with very little current to show for it.
Solar cells are able to produce lots of current, using no liquids, while causing no oxydation.
Why can't we do something like that with our cells?????????????????
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  #2857  
Old 02-14-2012, 05:12 PM
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And the winner is....."Phyllis" the plant battery

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Originally Posted by FRC View Post
I only made the cement cell that JB told us about early on in this thread. I have
been away from home working for most of the last year. I did not have much internet access where I was. So I have not been able to follow this thread as well as I would have liked to. There seems to have been a lot of progress here.

@ Lidmotor could you tell us which cells were the better ones that are
holding up better than the others ?


George
My plain old simple plant battery "Phyllis" is one of my homemade cells that really worked out well for me. It is just a philodendren house plant with a Mg firestarter block and a small piece of copper pipe stuck in the potting soil. I think that the plant and potting soil mixture helped with the depolarization thing. I have a small LED oscillator hooked up to it and it has run for almost 2 years. When the LEDs start to go dim---I water the plant. It is just that simple. The philodendren is tough enough to handle the chemicals that build up in the soil ---maybe it just learned to eat them??? The Mg chunk was big enough to keep going at the low amp draw. I pulled it out about six months ago to check it and it was being consumed-- but slowly. The copper pipe formed a green oxide on it and just sits there like that. The two electrodes are placed on opposite sides of the plant root structure.

Plant Battery Running a SEC - YouTube

(notice the date on this video----next month she will be 2 years old)

I have several other Mg cells that work if I keep them watered correctly but what most of us want is something with much more power. Penny #1 contiunes to run on IB's stove top cell but it is just an interesting curiosity (1/2 a volt with a few microamps). Several of my copper and zinc cells are running small things but a regular AA alkaline beats them all hands down. A rechargeable AA hooked to a 3v solar cell----beats that.

I still have great hope that JB's new Hydrate cell will continue working. It still looks good but testing will take a long time.

@Nick, IB, Plengo, Jehdds, and All
Thanks for hanging onto this project. What we find out is not always what we had hoped for but if ANYTHING is learned from the process ---then I don't think that it is a waste of time.

@John & Chuck
Many thanks for the massive amount of time and $s spent on this and for sharing what you can.

Lidmotor
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  #2858  
Old 02-14-2012, 05:28 PM
jehdds jehdds is offline
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Originally Posted by NickZ View Post
Mikrovolt and All:
I read the two attachments that you posted concerning the depolarizer, and carbon/Mg0 cells. There looks to be no easy fix in sight, as the chemistry gets more involved each day.
I'm very disappointed that even my dry carbon/quartz cells are being contaminated by the hydrogen gas. Even when the cell is sealed, it looks like the solution to the oxidation problem is not simple. As it will involve making the semiconductor layer on both the copper and aluminum/or Mg., as well as the use of the depolarizer, and then testing to see how long the cells will last. As the cells need to vent, and as they vent the outside air (oxygen) will get into the salt electrolyte, and combine to form more water, and even with the protective oxide layers or even with the depolarizer the metals will probably start to dissolve, in time. Time will tell, as it did with my dry carbon cells. How well the depolarizer will function, to absorb the released hydrogen gases, and for how long is not known, yet.

As things are getting more and more complicated this leads me to think that it may just be easier to buy and use regular Lithium, Lead acid, or other rechargeable batteries instead. As we are not really able to do much with low current cells, that tend to self-destruct in a short time span. Or not???
I'm really interested in a perpetual output DRY cell, as this whole wet process is getting closer and closer to regular liquid electrolyte batteries, but with very little current to show for it.
Solar cells are able to produce lots of current, using no liquids, while causing no oxydation.
Why can't we do something like that with our cells?????????????????
Nick,
Keep working. Do not give up. I am currently VERY carefully observing a cell I made that has been running my oscillator for 4.5 weeks now with the LED ON and not blinking. I can dial it to go bright even after this time running. It was made January 5, 2012. 2+ Weeks were allowed to pass before loading testing to ensure as dry as possible. NO WATER HAS BEEN ADDED to this cell after fabrication. So this cell is acting different than many of my others.
The cell is a Magnesium cylinder with Graphite core. OD 1" ID 3/4" 1/2" diameter Graphite core. So the electrolyte width is 1/8" which is even wider than optimal. It seems that if the electrolyte layer is just right, perhaps these cells via cappillary action may be able to pull enough moisture to keep it running. I again have NOT added a single drop of water after making this cell. So either it breaths or it is recycling the water. Time will tell.
The key difference of the cell I am watching has to do with the ratio of LiClO4 is increased which potentiates crystal formation even of the ZnO as well as a higher Silica gel percent, thus more captured and trapped water.
I made two identical cells with the cylinder setting upon a stack of NEO magenets. I believe that certain crystals are VERY subject to the magnetic field, and can assist in the orientation of the cell lattice. The cell that has not been touched shows 18mA Dead short, 1.67V
The loaded cell is 1.16 volts after 4.5 weeks. So I am guardedly hopeful.
I am hoping to go a solid two months running 24/7 before destructive observation of cell wall etc.
More later but keep up the work. We are moving forward.... momentum,
all with time.
Very Best Regards,
Jim
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  #2859  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:54 PM
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My disagreement with Ibpointless2

@All,
I have received many E-Mails concerning my disagreement with Ibpointless2, so let me set the record straight. Crystals have been my interest for many years and so have all types of batteries.
Not only that but everything in the energy field.I'm a real sticker with the known science and I do like to experiment with chemicals, but I want to know more that just how to do the formulas. I'm not saying that his cells did not work because they do, I'm saying without the water you can not developed current needed to run circuits that need it.

Everything that we use in life requires current that we build. Showing the first circuit posted on The Earth Lights with two inductors as he did and saying that something new is discovered by altering the components is not new and if you alter the base circuit with a plate under the circuit all is you have done is change the resonances of the circuit, as the circuit changes frequency the amount of current will change (R*C will give the frequency, resistor and capacitor).

So by altering the resonances you have attempted to tune the circuit and the Led will get much brighter and the current will go down and that is the way it works. The other thing I do not need a bunch of people begging me to change my mind because I will not when it comes to physics. Just because I disagree with Ibpointless2 does not mean I will not listen with an open mind to him, I do not hold grudges with people as it is not productive here. I don't even care If Allen Burgess returns as I do not even think less of him either. It's a free world here and you can say what you want. I'm not begging any of you to build what I'm building, I'm just sharing information with this group. If it works for you fine.

If the information is discarded that is fine too. I do not like to go into math formulas here because not everybody understand that as I have found over the years and you will end up going in circles here. So again I will make this "Crystal Clear", I hold no grudge with Ibpointlesss2 he is doing good work in what he is trying to do, best of luck. And again I will say all of this follows Physics exactly right down to the Electro Chemistry . The point here is to trick the electrodes into believing they were never used. If you can not have a disagreement with people you will never be friends ever. I hope I have put this to rest here as I will not answer any of the e-mails on that subject, Physics is Physics and Electro Chemistry works the same way.

I will put up a you tube explaining how the depolarizer works in the cell I'm making.John B
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  #2860  
Old 02-14-2012, 08:09 PM
voire voire is offline
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Smile Alum Cell Impedance

@John Bedini

Thanks for your help in telling me to heat the copper about three times to form a good semiconductor. I finally managed to replicate your semiconductor alum cell. It's now happily running a small fan on my desk.

I wanted to ask though, if you had any ideas on how to lower the cell's impedance? That seems to be the only drawback with the cells. I made it in a 1 inch diameter copper cap. It's short circuit current is about 50 milli-amps, but under load it's maintaining a constant 12 milli-amps.*

What do you think about using a 50% alum, 50% magnesium oxide mix, instead of just alum? Would that improve the impedance any do you think?*

Thanks.
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  #2861  
Old 02-15-2012, 12:08 AM
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My Crystal Cell Depolarizer

In this video I show the process of making My Crystal Cell that is using water and how the mixture is changed to a paste and the Depolarizer is added to the mix. Also showing the baking process and then the electrical testing of the cell. First the cell is tested dry to show that no power is developed and then the cell is tested with the use of water to allow Ion transfer. The next point is that the Hydrogen is collected by the Mn2O3 and the cell becomes very stable. After drying you just add water.
My Crystal Cell Depolarizer - YouTube
John Bedini.
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  #2862  
Old 02-15-2012, 12:42 AM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Oh yeah! John I'm glad about what you're doing and I hope that you keep showing us because you're a good teacher. I have a question, because I'm a guy who's from Québec, Canada and I've some trouble understanding the speaking form of english, the writting from peoples is much more understandable for me sorry for that...That question is: Is the ''paper/crystal'' contain the mix (rochelle/epson/sodium silicate) if not, what it contain exatcly? I think what you've done in that video was one of your best cell construction, I'm alright? Thanks!

Jean-Sébastien
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:31 AM
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Contents

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Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
Oh yeah! John I'm glad about what you're doing and I hope that you keep showing us because you're a good teacher. I have a question, because I'm a guy who's from Québec, Canada and I've some trouble understanding the speaking form of english, the writting from peoples is much more understandable for me sorry for that...That question is: Is the ''paper/crystal'' contain the mix (rochelle/epson/sodium silicate) if not, what it contain exatcly? I think what you've done in that video was one of your best cell construction, I'm alright? Thanks!

Jean-Sébastien
Rochelle/Epson/Mn2O3/and Iron Pyrite/Mg filings, water and Hydrate #5
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:52 AM
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Enjoyed the video John/Chuck and learned a lot. Thanks from here too

@Lidmotor - Phyllis is quite the star. Another amazing old lady still going (unless retirement plans in CA are really that good). If you think about it, even the life run of the LED's on Maggie is nothing to sniff at.

Am presently recycling my recycled copper, from cells made in the early days...to fire it and make more cells.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:25 AM
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@John & Chuck,

that last video showing the dry paste cell with Mn2O3 is amazing. You said Magnesium but is not this Manganese? I think you just changed the words (I do the same all the time).


@all,

I am uploading a video for another test I am doing with Mg and Iron Pyrite with Sodium Silicate as the glue. What is surprising me is that the two metals together without water (except the water from Sodium Silicate - which is drying) gives a 1.2v and 1ma and grows as it dries.

Total resistance of the cell is over 4mega ohms and still she gives a good amount of power out. I am totally baffled by this.

This cell has no carbon, epson, rochelle, sand nothing, just Mg + Sodium Silicate + Iron Pyrite and Copper.

video: Crystal Cell 18 - YouTube

Fausto.

ps: video is still processing so it will be available in a few minutes.
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:17 AM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Hydrate #5

I have 2 other questions for John and Chuck: The hydrate #5 means pentahydrate but I just don't know from which source (element) I can get it, yeah It still foggy in my mind, And the 2nd is about the mn2o3 I have found some Bixbyite witch is Fe,Mn(2,o3) can I just go buy some and file it with the pyrite/magnesium or is there another mean to get it?? ... After that, I will sleep better for a couple of nights and it will be more easy for me to replicate. Thanks again!

Jean-Sebébastien
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:03 AM
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The link

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Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
I have 2 other questions for John and Chuck: The hydrate #5 means pentahydrate but I just don't know from which source (element) I can get it, yeah It still foggy in my mind, And the 2nd is about the mn2o3 I have found some Bixbyite witch is Fe,Mn(2,o3) can I just go buy some and file it with the pyrite/magnesium or is there another mean to get it?? ... After that, I will sleep better for a couple of nights and it will be more easy for me to replicate. Thanks again!

Jean-Sebébastien
14103 Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate, tech. - Alfa Aesar - A Johnson Matthey Company

John B
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:25 PM
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@John & Chuck,

that last video showing the dry paste cell with Mn2O3 is amazing. You said Magnesium but is not this Manganese? I think you just changed the words (I do the same all the time).


@all,

I am uploading a video for another test I am doing with Mg and Iron Pyrite with Sodium Silicate as the glue. What is surprising me is that the two metals together without water (except the water from Sodium Silicate - which is drying) gives a 1.2v and 1ma and grows as it dries.

Total resistance of the cell is over 4mega ohms and still she gives a good amount of power out. I am totally baffled by this.

This cell has no carbon, epson, rochelle, sand nothing, just Mg + Sodium Silicate + Iron Pyrite and Copper.

video: Crystal Cell 18 - YouTube

Fausto.

ps: video is still processing so it will be available in a few minutes.

Great video!

The reason why amps go up when you use it is because water is attracted to electricity, so water will travel to the electrodes. The more water you have around the electrodes the less resistance you have and the more amps you get. Not only is water attracted to electricity but its repelled by magnets!

water being attracted to electricity Static Electricity and Water - YouTube

water being repelled by magnets "Anti" Magnetic water and Levitating Graphite by Diamagnetism - YouTube




@all

Ohm's law plays a big role in these cells. I=V/R, V=IR, R=V/I

The less resistance you have in your cell the more current you get. Here is some examples.

If you have a cell that gives you 1.5V with a 4,000,000ohm resistance than I = 1.5/4,000,000. I = 0.000000375A

But if you had a cell that gave 1.5v at 4,000ohms than I = 1.5/4000. I = 0.000375A

so you can see resistance is inversely proportional to amps. Higher resistance the lower the amps are.

This is why adding water to the mix gives you higher amps, it lowers the resistance. I've been on the hunt for a liquid like water that lowers the resistance of the cell. So far I found very few and none work as good as water. I even tried bug spray and it worked ok. Sodium silicate (water glass) works ok too. Also bringing the electrodes as close as possible to each other also lowers the resistance beucase the energy has less to travel through.

What I find most interesting is if you have 0 resistance, you won't have voltage or current. So it makes you think that a superconductor can't be used as a electrode?
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:30 PM
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, I hold no grudge with Ibpointlesss2 he is doing good work in what he is trying to do, best of luck. And again I will say all of this follows Physics exactly right down to the Electro Chemistry . The point here is to trick the electrodes into believing they were never used. If you can not have a disagreement with people you will never be friends ever.
Very well said John, you're a very wise man.
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:31 PM
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Very well said John, you're a very wise man.
Ibpointless2,
Yes that is correct and I consider you a friend and your work is good because you try very hard at this project. Just keep up your work as I know you will find what you want.
John B
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:04 PM
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Seams like a Catch 22:
The less resistance there is in the cell mix, the higher the current reads, yes. But the higher the current gets, the more hydrogen gas is produced that can ruin the cells, and also, more hydrogen Ions are blocked at the positive pole from getting through it, and doing their job.
Will the depolarizer work without causing more corrosion??? The Mn0 from old D cells dissolved my aluminum capacitor cans, although I did not wash it out first, as John now recommends. I did follow his advice in washing and baking and further washing and baking the carbon rods that I've removed from old AA batteries. That does work ok. I was able to get a single cell to light a red led by itself, with no oscillator needed. Materials were taken out of a totally dead 10 year old D size battery. They became my strongest cells, but they did go bad on me after some months. So have all my sealed carbon/quartz cells, although they all still work to some degree, but the resistance due to impedance is higher now.
Sorry for the bad picture.

@ Jim: thanks for your encouragement, and good luck with your tests.

@ Lidmotor: Yes, even poor results are part of the learning it takes to get somewhere. Maybe the low power from the micro-watt output type cells can be used with some of the exciter circuits, that may not need the higher wattage to see some results. I can obtain 12 volts from my cells, but how many milli amps (or micro amps) would it take to run an exciter?
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:20 PM
Slider2732 Slider2732 is offline
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The last D cell I attacked, attacked me back ! Got a scar from that experience but i'm going to return to it now knowing about the thorough washing. Sorry of I missed it but when used as a depolarizer material, does it sit in a coffee filter to drain and does it have to dry naturally or can it be placed in a low heat oven to dry out ?

@IB2 - kitchen sprays work, but we obviously decrease the pH by several notches as well and they contain water. White vinegar works great and destroys a cell even better
My simplified logic says that if the resistance was zero, we'd have what amounted to a capacitor, with a very long self recharge time.
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:28 PM
jehdds jehdds is offline
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John,
Does your mix have any bubbling to it after you hydrate into the paste prior to painting on your material? (perhaps from mg doping conversion.)

Have you taken a look at the dried layer under a microscope?
smooth or loculated?

have you noticed a differential from bench drying of your layer vs heat acclerated drying as related to output?

Thank you guys again. I hope to have some new information for the group soon.

Very best Regards,
Jim
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:42 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Depolarizer manganese Mn2O3

@All, I personaly would prefer to buy some because of the purity of the material. It's better to take your time and having the proper ingredients and material before proceding imho. On ebay Bixbyte (Bixbyite - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) is very cheap. It's (Fe,Mn)2O3. Just files it into the mix and your done with the depolarizer!
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:49 AM
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John_Bedini John_Bedini is offline
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Painting on the crystal and baking it

Jim,
No I have not seen any bubbling when mixing the Salts. Air drying with the hydrate takes much to long since the hydrate is absorbing water it will stay tacky. Painting on the crystal and baking it forms the stress cracks. The only thing is that you must not over bake it. Yes I have looked at it under the microscope and you can see the crystal structure.
I did it this way to get the most surface area. Adding the Manganese (III) Oxide keeps the Hydrogen from building up and the cell is real stable with voltage and current. no eroding of the magnesium electrode at all.
However the problem is it is very hard to work with as a power.
John
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  #2876  
Old 02-16-2012, 02:54 AM
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Lidmotor Lidmotor is offline
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Self-watering cell

@Plengo
I noticed in your last video that you had tried a "self-watering" idea on one of your cells so I made one also to try out. I am using the keroscene lantern wick method with cotten string and a small container of distilled water. The cell that I show in this video is very similar to the copper cap cells that you have tried. These little things are STRONG for their size but I had trouble with it drying out too fast so I am trying this "self -watering" idea.

Self- watering Hydrate Crystal Cell - YouTube


@ NickZ
All of my "Exciters" need at least 1volt and about 15mA to run. To run strong they really need 1.5 volts and 30mA. I need to work on making one that will run on less current. Slayer or Slider might have more luck there.

@ John & ChucK
I still have not made the "waffer electrolyte" like you showed but it is on my to do list.

Lidmotor
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Last edited by Lidmotor; 02-16-2012 at 03:08 AM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:00 AM
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John_Bedini John_Bedini is offline
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Baking Process

Jim,
I thought I might say one other thing that was important. The pasting just forms on the surface of the cloth leaving an open area between the two pasted baked sections. So when looking at it you have a place for water to travel through in that area, the Ions can travel between electrodes then. That is why in the video I pointed that out.
John B
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:28 AM
jehdds jehdds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Jim,
I thought I might say one other thing that was important. The pasting just forms on the surface of the cloth leaving an open area between the two pasted baked sections. So when looking at it you have a place for water to travel through in that area, the Ions can travel between electrodes then. That is why in the video I pointed that out.
John B
John,
Thank you, and that makes sense.
Jim
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:09 PM
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NickZ NickZ is offline
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This cell called the "Daniell Cell" was made to avoid the problems associated with hydrogen bubbles.
Sort of similar to Johns way of using the hydrogen gas to maintain (or increase?) the cells output levels.
I thought that we were getting complicated in our cell designs, but it looks like this has all been done before, many years ago.
Kind of looks like some of the cells that we have made, now don't it???

Daniell cell - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

NickZ
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:15 PM
jehdds jehdds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickZ View Post
This cell called the "Daniell Cell" was made to avoid the problems associated with hydrogen bubbles.
Sort of similar to Johns way of using the hydrogen gas to maintain (or increase?) the cells output levels.
I thought that we were getting complicated in our cell designs, but it looks like this has all been done before, many years ago.
Kind of looks like some of the cells that we have made, now don't it???

Daniell cell - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

NickZ
Bravo,

"All Learning is remembering"
-Plato
Jim
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