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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 01:22 AM
plengo plengo is offline
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I thought these links are related to the issue so I am sharing.

YouTube - Edison Battery Construction Nickel Iron

http://www.lizardfire.com/hydroxy/Th...ge_Battery.pdf

Fausto.

Last edited by plengo : 02-11-2011 at 01:37 AM.
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 01:31 AM
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John_Bedini John_Bedini is offline
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Earth Light

Less K,
Yes I have worked with the Alum before and I did convert two or three Lead Acid batteries. However if you use junk batteries that is what you get junk.

I have never tried to revive them when they are shorted. I take new batteries and dump the acid. I then wash them out and add the Alum treatment. I still have all the batteries at the shop and use them every day for the chargers not one of those batteries has failed. If you do not want the acid around that is the way to go.

Lidmotor that is ok I have just wound another coil without the iron rod it work real good. but if you do that add 10 extra feet of wire.

John B
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 04:44 AM
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chuck H chuck H is offline
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Zinc/Carbon Bedini Earth light with 2nd transistor and solar cell

Here is a video of the John Bedini Earthlight with solar cell. In this one We are using a Dupont #900 water filter (#800 is a carbon paper wrap) with Zinc strips and distilled Alum water. The LED shuts off when there is the correct amount of light. The Zinc is from a sheet sheared into strips and soldered together. It makes only 1volt but as you can see it has plenty of current to run this circuit. The Magnesuim ciruit would leave only about .6volts under this load but the Zinc under load has .7 volts. I have not checked the current draw yet.

YouTube - Bedini earthlight solar with zinc cell.wmv

Last edited by chuck H : 02-17-2011 at 04:11 AM. Reason: Wrong filter #
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:12 AM
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Zinc/carbon

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Originally Posted by chuck H View Post
Here is a video of the John Bedini Earthlight with solar cell. In this one We are using a Dupont #800 water filter with Zinc strips and distilled Alum water. The LED shuts off when there is the correct amount of light. The Zinc is from a sheet sheared into strips and soldered together. It makes only 1volt but as you can see it has plenty of current to run this circuit. The Magnesuim ciruit would leave only about .6volts under this load but the Zinc under load has .7 volts. I have not checked the current draw yet.

YouTube - Bedini earthlight solar with zinc cell.wmv
Does anyone know what was used for electrolyte in the big old zinc/carbon
1 1/2v cylindrical dry cells with the nuts and screws on top ?

FRC
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:33 AM
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Frc

FRC,
That was Carbon, manganese dioxide, zinc metal.
That is one good battery, the 1950's
John B
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 01:58 PM
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fusionchip fusionchip is offline
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Post carbon graphite magnesium and zinc

i have a reseller contract with some companies that manufacture the carbon graphite magnesium and zinc . in sizes one inch thick X 2 feet or 1 foot and 1/2 inch diameter X 2 feet or 1 foot in pure carbon or pure graphite ,magnesium or zinc , I used to sell them on sunpowerwindpower.com but have not sold or kept the site up this year and gave it away to another administrator . i also have access to special orders up to foot in diameter up to 8 feet in length on carbon or graphite)these are Hard fired and not that brittle . the graphite is very hard .they can be made with a wire in the middle of them for electrical connect .
I use a combination of one inch thick two feet long graphite and magnesium in dry dirt and get peaks of 1.9 volts and up to 800 milli amps . with carbon and zinc rods of same size i get 1.4 tp 1.6 volts 700ma to over 1 amp in moist dirt out here in the middle of the country where i live . If i remember right a 1/2 inch x one foot was around 10 dollars for carbon or graphite . Ill have to check metal price for magnesium and zinc but they used to be around 40 dollars for one inch X two feet magnesium . the zinc was a bit higher.i have to order in a small bulk to get these prices so if there is an interest i can pursue this .I have three pairs of them in the ground out here in Nowhere land and run some nice bright lights and a radio 24/7 for my free energy earth batteries .also a 1/2 inch graphite and magnesium rod one foot in length wrapped in some cotton and taped together with duck tape is running a big Jt .

thank you John Bedini for your circuits and free energy experiments . I have bought your books and enjoy reading them like an old sears christmas toy catalog from the 70's You are my Main man and inspiration .


albert
http://www.sunpowerwindpower.com/doc...chhalfinch.gif
Attached Images
File Type: jpg earthrods_001_ezg_2.jpg (77.2 KB, 68 views)

Last edited by fusionchip : 02-11-2011 at 02:31 PM. Reason: edit
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 02:19 PM
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minoly minoly is offline
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KAl(SO4)2

Thanks for sharing the ckt!
What I love about these is, not only that they are very efficient, but that they are clean and simple enough for me to understand :-)

Alum - KAl(SO4)2 aluminum potassium sulfate
So were still in the salty electrolyte area of the periodic table. I wonder if the aluminum is what helps. we have a rod that is supposedly an aluminum magnesium mixture. We have been reluctant to spray it or wet it with anything because we only have the one. I think well cut a piece off and give it a try this weekend.

Our copper pipe magnesium ribbon lasted a week and a day in the Ziploc bag, then another 5 days if we gave it a good squeeze in the AMn now it needs a squeeze every couple of hours, the ribbon is noticeably tarnished and sulfated.
YouTube - salt vs magnesium battery cell
This was lightly sprayed with the dri-z-air distilled water combo. The Ziploc bag seems to be a nice accelerator to get to the breaking point of the elements. Well put one in w/ the alum
We used a diode, after shooting the vid, we removed it and the motor speed increased 3 fold. Is there any other reason to use the diode on these cells?

Patrick
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fusionchip View Post
i have a reseller contract with some companies that manufacture the carbon graphite magnesium and zinc . in sizes one inch thick X 2 feet or 1 foot and 1/2 inch diameter X 2 feet or 1 foot in pure carbon or pure graphite ,magnesium or zinc , I used to sell them on sunpowerwindpower.com but have not sold or kept the site up this year . i also have access to special orders up to foot in diameter up to 8 feet in length on carbon or graphite)these are Hard fired and not that brittle . the graphite is very hard .they can be made with a wire in the middle of them for electrical connect .
I use a combination of one inch thick two feet long graphite and magnesium in dry dirt and get peaks of 1.9 volts and up to 800 milli amps . with carbon and zinc rods of same size i get 1.4 tp 1.6 volts 700ma to over 1 amp in moist dirt out here in the middle of the country where i live . If i remember right a 1/2 inch x one foot was around 10 dollars for carbon or graphite . Ill have to check metal price for magnesium and zinc but they used to be around 40 dollars for one inch X two feet magnesium . the zinc was a bit higher.i have to order in a small bulk to get these prices so if there is an interest i can pursue this .I have three pairs of them in the ground out here in Nowhere land and run some nice bright lights and a radio 24/7 for my free energy earth batteries .also a 1/2 inch graphite and magnesium rod one foot in length wrapped in some cotton and taped together with duck tape is running a big Jt .

thank you John Bedini for your circuits and free energy experiments . I have bought your books and enjoy reading them like an old sears christmas toy catalog from the 70's You are my Main man and inspiration .


albert

how long have you had those in the ground? have you seen their condition lately?
I'd be interested in what is in your dirt, perhaps you can start selling it when we buried our magnesium in the ground it went bad very quickly. We live in the city, near pine trees, so our dirt is acidic and who knows what else is in there(ground fill). I was digging next to the house to put some shrubberies 4 years ago and found whole bikes, garden rakes wire fence parts buried in the dirt and ALL tied to the house ground!

patrick
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2011, 03:55 PM
mikrovolt mikrovolt is offline
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What I found in researching is that Pure Magnesium in (di) distilled water is that it should work for quite some time. Tests done show that once the surface forms a thin layer of magnesium hydroxide initially then it does not produce more however,

After reading through the question in my mind is :

What is a good practical method of removing CO2 from distilled water that will not effect the functioning of the cell ?

see the subheading "Water"

Magnesium . com - Data Bank
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
how long have you had those in the ground? have you seen their condition lately?
I'd be interested in what is in your dirt, perhaps you can start selling it when we buried our magnesium in the ground it went bad very quickly. We live in the city, near pine trees, so our dirt is acidic and who knows what else is in there(ground fill). I was digging next to the house to put some shrubberies 4 years ago and found whole bikes, garden rakes wire fence parts buried in the dirt and ALL tied to the house ground!

patrick
Hi Patrick . It's mainly grey clay with some top soil and i get run offs from what ever the farmers spray with Crop dusters and tractors . Lots of nitrogen and chicken poo also Yes i pull up the rods in 6 months. the carbon and graphite is pristine and the zinc and magnesium are slightly whitish when i washed the clay off . the magnesium is slightly pitted but the bottoms are still sharp so far . compared to my other house/lot about a mile away mostly sand the rods over there are still running lights outside thru a Jt and they have been in the ground for a few years . i pulled one up a few weeks (magnesium)ago and am using it for the air battery . It was slightly pitted and the bottoms were ragged a bit on the metals ,the carbon was pristine . i just took some windex and a piece of steel wool and it was shiny in no time . very little loss .

Albert
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 02:46 AM
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Lidmotor Lidmotor is offline
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The carbon water filter cartridge cell

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck H View Post
Here is a video of the John Bedini Earthlight with solar cell. In this one We are using a Dupont #800 water filter with Zinc strips and distilled Alum water. The LED shuts off when there is the correct amount of light. The Zinc is from a sheet sheared into strips and soldered together. It makes only 1volt but as you can see it has plenty of current to run this circuit. The Magnesuim ciruit would leave only about .6volts under this load but the Zinc under load has .7 volts. I have not checked the current draw yet.

YouTube - Bedini earthlight solar with zinc cell.wmv
Chuck---- I'm glad that you got that to work. I worked with this idea all week and found that if you wrap plain old aluminum foil around the cartridge you get almost a volt with enough punch to run the circuit. I used just plain tap water with no additive. The foil seem to hold up amazingly well. You can't beat the cost and availability.
I decided to use an infrared phototransistor between the base and emitter of the 2N2222 to solve the on/off problem instead of using John's way. It is an easy idea but not my idea. I saw it done somewhere before and it works very well except that when it shuts down the circuit it still leaks about 100 to 200 micro amps. For the battery situation we have-- where all we care about is turning the light on and off ---it works just fine. The Radio Shack part# is 276-0145 and here is a link to the part:

Infrared Phototransistor - RadioShack.com

The thing looks like a white LED. The collector (short end) goes to the base of the 2N2222 and the emitter (long end) goes to the 2N2222 emitter. When light hits it the device keeps the transistor from functioning. Sensitivity is controlled by adjusting the base resistance.

@Mikrovolt
I enjoyed your link to the article on magnesium. That really helped.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Last edited by Lidmotor : 02-12-2011 at 03:00 AM.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 03:03 AM
cody cody is offline
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Quote:
What is a good practical method of removing CO2 from distilled water that will not effect the functioning of the cell ?
mikrovolt,

I had brought this up in the other thread. This is what i initially believed was running these cells, water and CO2 forming carbonic acid H2CO3 and thereby creating a galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals. The temperature findings John B has brought to light make me question my initial theory that it was galvanic. But regardless of what it is, if you are using water, you will be dealing with CO2 and corroding metal from the carbonic acid. This is what i found when researching this: Water absorbs CO2 from the air through a process called diffusion. Basically the air will have a higher concentration of CO2 than pure distilled water, so the CO2 diffuses to the area of less concentration in the water. If your cell is open to the air, i dont see how you could avoid this from happening. So basically you would need to remove the CO2 and then seal the cell off from the air to keep it out. Removing CO2, or other gasses for that matter, is called degassing. There are a number of commercial degassing systems available. But the easiest and cheapest way i can think of is what we did in chem class, boil it. That should get a good amount of it out, maybe not as good as other methods though.

Oddly enough, as fresh water tends to be slightly acidic from CO2, sea water however is slightly basic. But then of course your dealing with the salt corroding your metals.

Maybe there are chemicals that would help, maybe Johns alum is doing this, i dont know. I would just degas the water and then just seal the water off from the air somehow while trying not to effect the function of the cell. Or of course find materials that dont corrode.



Cody

Last edited by cody : 02-12-2011 at 03:15 AM.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 03:55 AM
mikrovolt mikrovolt is offline
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RE: Cody and other's suggestions

Boil the distilled water and seal the whole cell from any atmosphere.
The alum works no doubt. I was thinking a jar or collapsible container that has a piece of pure shiny magnesium that takes the hit of any small reaction to preconditioning the water to insure the C/ Mg cell will remain free of any effects of CO2 during water replenishing or wicking.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 08:34 AM
jonnydavro jonnydavro is offline
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@Cody.Adding some oil to the distilled water after boiling may keep the air out.I am thinking back to science at school when we did an experiment with nails to see how they rust under various conditions and the testube with oil floating on the top didn't rust.Jonny
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 02:57 PM
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Keeping the air out--keeping the water out????

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Originally Posted by jonnydavro View Post
@Cody.Adding some oil to the distilled water after boiling may keep the air out.I am thinking back to science at school when we did an experiment with nails to see how they rust under various conditions and the testube with oil floating on the top didn't rust.Jonny
@Jonny & All
You guys maybe onto something. Yesterday I made a new cell using a 5" piece of hollow 1/2" diameter carbon fiber arrow shaft. I used a piece of heavy duty paper towel as the isolator and wound mg ribbon tightly on it covering the whole 5" piece. The wraps of mg were right next to each other. I first got the cell wet with tap water and it worked as expected then decided to "stop" it by drying it off and spraying it with WD-40. To my amazement it didn't stop. It slowed way down to about 1.2 volts with not much power but it was alive and well running on a "mixture" of left over water and WD-40. I put it in a small plastic tube with a slight amount of water and have it running my little spinner pulse motor.
I think that we can slow the oxidation down to a point where a reaction is still taking place to produce electricity but the magnesiium will last much longer. It is my hope anyway.

Here is a link to the history of WD-40. My dad was working on the Atlas missile project for the Air Force at that time and they had a problem with the thin stainless steel skin of the missile corroding. WD-40 was developed to solve the problem--- and the rest is history. ""Water Displacement- 40th attempt"--- what would we do with out it.
WD-40 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Lidmotor

Last edited by Lidmotor : 02-12-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 03:56 PM
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@all

Oil sure works , that is old prehistoric tech .

Edison Battery Oil Bottles

It will also keep the electrolyte or water from evaporating .

Marc
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Old 02-12-2011, 05:01 PM
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Earth Light

@ All
Now that we have worked out some of the problems with the magnesium knowing what Elum does as Peter and I found out Yesterday. it's time to mix the correct amount into a past and build a crystal battery, does that give you any hints.

John H will not say anything and never will give the information for you to reproduce his rock cell but this getting much easier to figure out now. I have a carbon Graphite and magnesium cell. I have been spraying light coats of Alum on it to form a crystal lattice it seem to be working on one of my Monopole motors now for last 4 weeks. We just need the correct crystal arrangement and we have it.

I can tell that one of the electrodes is Magnesium possibly with Mercury rubbed over it. I'm not saying that you should work with Mercury but I remember from Science class rubbing Mercury on Zinc to keep the Zinc in tact. Nobody understood the dangers of Mercury then, no worse then playing with CFL's.

Look at marcus reid crystal battery - Google Search

John B

Last edited by John_Bedini : 02-12-2011 at 05:15 PM. Reason: information
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 05:20 PM
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earth Light

Here one more link
Marcus Reid -- Crystal battery
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2011, 06:47 PM
cody cody is offline
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John B

Are you using your radiant charging technique to build the alum crystals in the cells you are working on?

Cody
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:48 PM
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Note

I am in the process of converting a battery to alum. When going over the old
thread on this procedure, I came across this: Lead_Acid_Car_Battery_Repair

They say to use magnesium (epsom salts) with hot distilled water. So tried this with my radiantly charged lead acid batteries. There seemed to be an almost immediate improvement. Thought others might be interested.

FRC
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:39 AM
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Alright i'll join the party.

I was about to be tracking down some carbon rod and magnesium ribbon, and using alum salts in the insulating paper like this:

Crystal Growing Tree Kit

but in light of previous posts, i assume we'll be heading in the direction of chalk-carbon-magnesium salts-alum-lead oxide etc paste..

I assume the current concept for the energy source is a broadband rf signal developed by random crystal lattices reaching resonances, fed by the negative resistance temperature differentials owing to the carbon..

This develops more resonances et al until electrons shake loose, leaving still vibrating electron holes, where virtual particles are encouraged to coalesce..

Also, thought i'd bring up this as a possible setting agent;

CHERIC | | DB | м ˻

the benefits of combining the constant voltage field of an epoxy-salt electret and the constant? current of a crystal lattice battery could be worth the effort down the track..

Watching avidly, will still get the carbon rod and magnesium ribbon if doing so would help group progress, just let me know.
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:22 AM
Dr Saminstine Dr Saminstine is offline
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Mag cell info

I have been following the mag cells and have built several out of water filters and air filters the first battery I built I used a salt solution it didn't last too long I have built others in distilled water and colloidal silver in distilled water these have lasted longer but the greatest success so far has been a hollow one inch dia carbon rod 6" long with the center drilled @ 1/2 inch then wrapped with felt the1/8" mag strip then wrapped with 1/16 space and the whole thing submerged in a high ppm silver solution the btm 1" is left bare carbon and the electrode is inserted into a jar,add one and a half inches of solution then add vegetable oil until fully covered the water wickes into the carbon and so far the cell is good I also use a 3/32"carbon fiber rod drilled down into the carbon as my positive the water fills the core and the oil protects from air. Thank you all who contribute to a better tomorrow

Sam
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:36 PM
aaron5120 aaron5120 is offline
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Dr. good work, keep going

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Originally Posted by Dr Saminstine View Post
I have been following the mag cells and have built several out of water filters and air filters the first battery I built I used a salt solution it didn't last too long I have built others in distilled water and colloidal silver in distilled water these have lasted longer but the greatest success so far has been a hollow one inch dia carbon rod 6" long with the center drilled @ 1/2 inch then wrapped with felt the1/8" mag strip then wrapped with 1/16 space and the whole thing submerged in a high ppm silver solution the btm 1" is left bare carbon and the electrode is inserted into a jar,add one and a half inches of solution then add vegetable oil until fully covered the water wickes into the carbon and so far the cell is good I also use a 3/32"carbon fiber rod drilled down into the carbon as my positive the water fills the core and the oil protects from air. Thank you all who contribute to a better tomorrow

Sam
Hi DrSaminstine,
I saw your YT clips regarding the Captret blinking LED circuit, and I think the idea is ingenious. Great job, dude.
I bought 50 red blinking LEDs for a replication of your idea.
I got a JT circuit which lights 200 Christmas Tree led lights continuously, I wonder if I can use the blinking LEDs to control somehow these 200 leds to blink (the IC control box which came with the lights did not work, because the driving transistors can only pass DC, and the JT outputs HF AC.
I already burned several of those ICs ).
This earth battery is a hit for the JT, I just want to make enough of them to drive my 200 led circuit. Currently, the circuit is consuming 38mA 3V from two AA alkaline batteries for lighting all the leds(200) for more than 4 days 24 hours a day.

Last edited by aaron5120 : 02-13-2011 at 12:38 PM.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2011, 05:00 AM
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chuck H chuck H is offline
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Phototransistor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lidmotor View Post
Chuck---- I'm glad that you got that to work. I worked with this idea all week and found that if you wrap plain old aluminum foil around the cartridge you get almost a volt with enough punch to run the circuit. I used just plain tap water with no additive. The foil seem to hold up amazingly well. You can't beat the cost and availability.
I decided to use an infrared phototransistor between the base and emitter of the 2N2222 to solve the on/off problem instead of using John's way. It is an easy idea but not my idea. I saw it done somewhere before and it works very well except that when it shuts down the circuit it still leaks about 100 to 200 micro amps. For the battery situation we have-- where all we care about is turning the light on and off ---it works just fine. The Radio Shack part# is 276-0145 and here is a link to the part:

Infrared Phototransistor - RadioShack.com

The thing looks like a white LED. The collector (short end) goes to the base of the 2N2222 and the emitter (long end) goes to the 2N2222 emitter. When light hits it the device keeps the transistor from functioning. Sensitivity is controlled by adjusting the base resistance.

@Mikrovolt
I enjoyed your link to the article on magnesium. That really helped.

Cheers,

Lidmotor
@ Lidmotor,
Thanks for the info. I am making some of these for around the house in vases and planters and the photo cell will work great for the small applications. I have been working with the aluminum but have not found the combination I'm happy with as of yet . I have many things going on with this stuff and sometimes need to walk away from a couple to finish others.... Thanks everybody for all the info.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2011, 05:06 PM
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Lidmotor Lidmotor is offline
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Too many experiments and not enough clip leads

@Chuck H
I know what you mean about having all these experiment going on at the same time. I am running out of clip leads and my wife says that the house is looking like a toy store. There are all these whirling things and lights on here and there. This battery project brought on a bunch of testing with mixed results. Some of the things that I have tried were truely amazing.

John B you have my head spinning with the Alum and crystal part of this. The more I got into it the more questions it raised. The biggest one is-- can we actually get real usable power out of a cell WITHOUT a galvanic reaction happening??? The internet research that I have done says yes ---but the details on exactly HOW are vague. Research into John Hutchison's work was most frustrating.

----And the work goes on.

Lidmotor

Last edited by Lidmotor : 02-14-2011 at 05:10 PM.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2011, 06:53 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lidmotor View Post
The biggest one is-- can we actually get real usable power out of a cell WITHOUT a galvanic reaction happening??? The internet research that I have done says yes ---but the details on exactly HOW are vague. Research into John Hutchison's work was most frustrating.

----And the work goes on.

Lidmotor


From my understanding is that if you use two dissimilar metals then most, not all, of your voltage is coming from the galvanic reaction. The only way to get rid of the galvanic reaction is to not use dissimilar metals. And this has been done with my water aluminum cells, i show you how to make them here YouTube - How to make a Water Captret Battery.MP4 skip to 8:45 to see the voltage. Even though the voltage is not near the voltage you'll see in the cells that John makes or lasersaber my cell has eliminated the galvanic reaction, thus nothing is consumed.

As for John Hutchison it can be hard to trust him, many of his video with anti-gravity have been proven fake with him either using fishing line or editing. His crystal batteries due hold some truth to them and should be further studied but he doesn't release any information about them so how can we trust him?

Also i don't know how we got on the subject of John Hutchison crystal batteries when we're not working with crystals? Marcus Ried also was messing around with something more similar and his work is very real but he was messing with minerals and not metals. Its been known for a long time that minearls and rocks give off electricity, you can test this your self by getting a rock from outside and testing it. Some rocks give off electricity and some don't.

The way that John Hutchison and Marcus Ried make their cells seem a lot like electrets. Marcus Ried even pointed out that most dielectrics give off small voltage. Now you start seeing a pattern of what Marcus Ried, John Hutchison, John Bedini, and even myself have put together. All of the types of cell start sharing the same characteristics, ****metal plates separated by a dielectric****. The dielectric can be a rock, mineral, water, or what ever shows dielectric abilities. Then you start to take a step back and start realizing that a lot more components share this characteristics of metal plates separated by a dielectric. Many of our electrical components share this idea such as the resistor, diode, capacitor, etc.... The metal plates separated by a dielectric is what i'm calling the golden component, because they all share this same golden idea of how something should be. Now you see that a resistor is nothing more than a capacitor and a diode can be a battery, because they all follow the same idea of metals separated by a dielectric. But we make our components based on a closed system and thus we don't see overuinty.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2011, 07:38 PM
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FRC FRC is offline
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Zinc crystals

Here is a link that was posted on the Discussion on HHO thread :Zinc Oxide Crystal Acting as Piezoelectric Material To Get Hydrogen From Water | Hydrogen Power I was wondering if these crystals could be used in some sort of
battery arrangement.

FRC
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2011, 04:54 AM
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Not Galvanic

Not galvanic people, i particularly liked these two videos and will b e rounding up the ingredients

YouTube - Crystal battery cement battery
YouTube - How to make crystal batteries free energy 1 of 2
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2011, 03:33 PM
cody cody is offline
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Not sure how much this relates, but its really cool. Take a look at these alum crystals you can grow. I have read that they grow with the same angle the great pyramid has.

YouTube - Pyramid alum growing crystal - Cristal d'alun pyramidal

here's how to make

YouTube - Alum Pyramid Seed
YouTube - alum crystal generator 2
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2011, 09:23 PM
bigsupersquid bigsupersquid is offline
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my 2 cents

Just was pointed to this lovely thread, and read it through. So, the first response I have is to a rather old post in this thread...
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcarring View Post
@John @ All

I've been playing with these circuits trying to learn more and ultimately my goal is to device a method to drive and control about 60 CFL tubes in a greenhouse off grid. Currently, the power gets inverted to AC, from solar, then ran into ballasts. This property is pretty rural so I am not quite as concerned about RF as I would be in town. My hopes are that I can devise a circuit that runs on the supply of 12v directly and if at all possible, actually used the collapse transients to help further the process. My thoughts are too that timing the circuit could also possibly provide energy savings. Later on I will take it further and figure out how to detect the "sun strength" and have those lights dim and or shutoff when ambient light is available (sun comes out from behind a cloud or rises in the morning) - which would further optimize the system. I have even thought about incorporating a tesla switching system behind this to take it even further in terms of battery consumption. All in due time. I somehow imagine a Bedini - like circuit doing this. Perhaps I don't understand - and - in a normal ballast you are getting that bonus already? In any event I am learning a lot about transistors, tonight I learned how to check them and identify properties, I'm getting a better grasp on this stuff daily. If my thoughts in general are not sensible, I welcome anyone to set me straight.
Look here for info on building your own 35w electronic ballasts for flourescent bulbs...
You'd have to gut CFL's of their electronics and render them back to their orginal Tesla design by shorting the coils on each end to make single terminals (instead of coils meant to burn up) to use a 12v sourced ballast on 'em though, like Imhotep did with his CFL modification lit with a chattering relay-diode-ignition coil circuit. edit: radiant oscillator.
Regular flourescent tubes could be lit with an electronic ballast the same way, but apply HVAC across the tube by shorting the coils at each end to act as single terminals at each end.
Funny, I was absolutely sure I'd posted my experiments in Imhotep's thread a couple years back, but now the forum shows I only have one other post, in Rick's thread on the friction boiler. Go figure.
As far as galvanic action in batteries, my college physics book says that no electrolyte is actually required to produce power from dissimilar metals... metals can be held in direct physical contact with nothing between them and still produce power... sounds a bit like the thermocouple references here and there through this thread, but the physics book makes no mention of temerature differential being required to operate. It also doesn't discuss corrosion in that sort of setup, and is really only in the book as an example I think.
This whole powercell idea in this thread looks really interesting. I'll be playing with the concepts a bit in my (near nonexistent) free time.
Thanks all for sharing your contributions.

Last edited by bigsupersquid : 02-15-2011 at 10:01 PM. Reason: added link
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