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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #4291  
Old 11-04-2012, 05:23 PM
Allwest Allwest is offline
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Originally Posted by ibpointless2 View Post
1. Yes I have used bigger electrodes. I have one cell I call my 5 foot cell and it powers my LCD clock. It is overkill for the clock. Here is the video...Update on 5 foot tall Dry Crystal cell - YouTube
2. Yes I have tried many combinations before such as using Alum, borax, baking soda, rubbing alcohol, detergent, garlic, cream of tartar, etc... but they all died off too. Only the crystal glue cell would stay alive with voltage.
3. The salt dissolve in the water that's in the glue. The glue itself only acts as something to bond the electrodes together and also to protect. The water dissolves the salts and the salts while in the water combine together and when the water evaporates away a new unknown salt is left behind that is conductive and it is what makes my cells work. I make other cells like my copper tube cells where I completely dissolve the salt sub and Epsom salt into hot water and I dunk paper in the water and wrap it around a copper pipe. I allow the paper to dry on the pipe for a day or two and then I add the magnesium ribbon around the dry paper, this is how the 5 foot tall crystal cell was made.
4. The data in the spread sheet here....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c
that was posted was all done with copper and magnesium electrodes. Last year when I first made the cells I only used copper and aluminum as that was all I had at the time, since then I use copper and magnesium since it gives more voltage. The magnesium won't corrode if you avoid water.
5. The link for the spreadsheet was a no load, voltage only test. The idea is that a water battery voltage will go away as the water battery looses water. This was proven with the other glue cell but the crystal glue cell stayed alive above 1.3V. Yes I do run real load test on my cells. The problem is that they give low amps because they don't use water for their median. I have the 5 foot cell permantly running the LCD clock and I have my 6inch cell that is much like the 5 foot one in the way its made and it runs an analog amp meter. An analog amp meter is almost a short, its a motor that acts on a spring and I watch it to see what happens. I also chart its data and compare it to heat and humidity. Here is the link to the 6 inch cell data from it being hooked up to the analog amp meter.....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Ux4UjA5Q0ZFSGc

I did this experiment last year around the same time and got the same results, here is that video.....Glue Crystal cell does not run on water - YouTube
To All

IB, With your latest information, I decided to pull out an old dry crystal cell and test it from 4-5-12

test - YouTube

It now sits at 1.48 volts and 1.45 MA

Wow! the volts just keep going up, this cell is completely dry

When I put a load on this the amps go down, but then turn around and start climbing

If I add heat it has gone up to 100 MA from 1.45 MA

The heat clearly stimulates the amps up, I believe when a load is applied to this cell it also applies heat to the cell thereby the amps go up

Thermal electric thing going on

IB,

Just wondering if you applied heat to your cells, my bet would be that your amps will go up

Best of luck
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  #4292  
Old 11-04-2012, 07:01 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Originally Posted by Allwest View Post
To All

IB, With your latest information, I decided to pull out an old dry crystal cell and test it from 4-5-12

test - YouTube

It now sits at 1.48 volts and 1.45 MA

Wow! the volts just keep going up, this cell is completely dry

When I put a load on this the amps go down, but then turn around and start climbing

If I add heat it has gone up to 100 MA from 1.45 MA

The heat clearly stimulates the amps up, I believe when a load is applied to this cell it also applies heat to the cell thereby the amps go up

Thermal electric thing going on

IB,

Just wondering if you applied heat to your cells, my bet would be that your amps will go up

Best of luck
Yes amps go up when heat is applied. The amps also go down when in the freezer. Voltage can be a different story.
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  #4293  
Old 11-05-2012, 02:57 AM
Allwest Allwest is offline
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Thanks for the link to the Microbial fuel cell. That opens up a whole new area that we have not really looked deeply into -----but somebody has!!


KeegoTech | MudWattâ„¢ MFC Kit



Remember the "Plant batteries" that most of us made a few years back. Well my "Phyllis" is still going strong after two years and our little microbe friends might be a contributing factor. This "MudWatt" product led me to search Youtube for more info on the microbial fuel cell. It seems that they are not that hard to make. Our blinking LED blocking oscillators (my Penny is one design) should work very easily off this cell. At first I suspected a galvanic situation hiding in the cell somewhere but the more that I researched into it the more I was convinced that the little creatures really are "making" the juice flow. The use of a carbon element for both cathode and anode was convincing and then the fact that the cell takes days before the electrical energy shows up reinforced my conculsion that this IS NOT A GALVANIC CELL!

I started looking for where to get inexpensive parts to make a test cell. The mud we can find anywhere for free but has to have lots of microbes in it. The jar can be anything. The low watt blinking led circuit most of us already have. The hard part was the "carbon felt" for the electrodes. I found that at Lowes in a "BerrnzOmatic heat cloth". That is the expensive part and costs almost $20 with tax. I will keep looking and there might be a better way to do it. You need alot of electrode surface area for the microbes to grow on and that was the reason they chose the carbon felt. Not enough surface area and the power will be very small.

This is something that we can build. Here is the build instruction for the MudWatt. Just fill in your own parts and go for it.

How To Build Your MudWatt - YouTube

Cheers,

Lidmotor

PS---I found other videos on Youtube about making homemade Microbial fuel cells but extreme care needs to be taken not to introduce a dissimilar metal situation anywhere in the build. Even the electrode wires could do it and give a false positive. If you see a voltage right away then something is wrong. It should take a few days to see a voltage show up on the cell. If the power drops off over time ---that is another red flag. The power should remain as long as the microbes are happy and eating. I found the whole idea very facinating when it is working right. There are some good videos explaining the process.
Lid,

I was looking for something that gains power from the opposite of entropy

(Galvanic)

These microbes are definably in the realm, I personally do not think this type of technology-power has been explored with other things, such as growth from crystals

Please let me know if you find any other research on this type of power gain

Are you familiar with the movie Matrix and where the machines get their power source? Ha!

Best of luck and I think that is going to be the name of the next cell I create "Matrix power cell" sounds good?
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  #4294  
Old 11-05-2012, 03:26 AM
Allwest Allwest is offline
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Constructing a Dye Sensitized Solar Cell

Here is some other things I was looking into, very simple to make

Constructing a Dye Sensitized Solar Cell - YouTube

Selfmade DIY Solar Cell - TiO2 Raspberry based Graetzel cell - YouTube

Best of luck
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Last edited by Allwest; 11-05-2012 at 03:29 AM.
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  #4295  
Old 11-05-2012, 03:37 AM
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Sawt2 Sawt2 is offline
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Lidmotor
It's been a while since you first introduced us to "penny". I went back and watched the how to video on penny (I have been wanting to make one for quite some time) I built one tonight just using alligator clips at first to make sure i got her to work, well, after mixing up a couple wires I finally got her work.
I used some copper wire coils that I had on hand and I am running it on my 6 cell Chemalloy battery, I have 3 sets of 2 cells parralleled together for a total of 1.25 volts no load. I have 3 LED's bright white running and it is using 15.5 watts according to my analog panel meter. The voltage drops to about .781 volt and just sits there, I'll leave it run for the night and see what happens.
I'll post some pics once I have it cleaned up and soldered together.
Thank you Lidmotor for sharing with us, It's a pretty cool and simple oscillator to build.
Thank you
Brian
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:53 PM
plengo plengo is offline
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Very interesting test.

Crystal Batteries versus Lead Acid battery for real world scenarios.

Lead Crystal vs Lead Acid Battery - Which is best for Solar Power? - YouTube



Fausto.
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  #4297  
Old 11-05-2012, 07:59 PM
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Lidmotor Lidmotor is offline
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Microbial fuel cell build update

@All
I have been doing work on a simple homemade microbial fuel cell. I spent lots of time researching it. I tried building a small "Mudwatt" cell but I didn't like what I saw happening. Here is a super simple cell that I am going try just to see if I can get results:

Lime Jello, Yeast and Carbon Paper Fuel Cell

@ Allwest
Building a solar cell is something that I have wanted to do also but I didn't want to spend the time or money trying it. The Mudwatt got my interest because it is claimed to operate for decades (thats right DECADES!). It is a small amount of power but like my plant battery, there is a real advantage to having something that runs 24/7 year after year. Here is the video explaining the how the thing works:

MudWatt Microbial Fuel Cell - How It Works - YouTube

@Sawt2
I'm glad that you got your Penny circuit to work. There are many variations of the basic idea and it is a simple blocking oscillator in principle----something that has been around since the early vacuum tube days. The way that I configured the coils and the caps is somewhat unique. My use of dollar store "twist tie" steel wire for the coils made the "Penny" oscillator truly unique.

@Plengo
That guy does some good real world tests on the batteries. His goal is what most of us want----the best bang for the buck. I need to look into these commercially available lead/crystal batteries.

Lidmotor
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  #4298  
Old 11-06-2012, 12:50 AM
DadHav DadHav is offline
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Originally Posted by ibpointless2 View Post
1. Yes I have used bigger electrodes. I have one cell I call my 5 foot cell and it powers my LCD clock. It is overkill for the clock. Here is the video...Update on 5 foot tall Dry Crystal cell - YouTube
2. Yes I have tried many combinations before such as using Alum, borax, baking soda, rubbing alcohol, detergent, garlic, cream of tartar, etc... but they all died off too. Only the crystal glue cell would stay alive with voltage.
3. The salt dissolve in the water that's in the glue. The glue itself only acts as something to bond the electrodes together and also to protect. The water dissolves the salts and the salts while in the water combine together and when the water evaporates away a new unknown salt is left behind that is conductive and it is what makes my cells work. I make other cells like my copper tube cells where I completely dissolve the salt sub and Epsom salt into hot water and I dunk paper in the water and wrap it around a copper pipe. I allow the paper to dry on the pipe for a day or two and then I add the magnesium ribbon around the dry paper, this is how the 5 foot tall crystal cell was made.
4. The data in the spread sheet here....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c
that was posted was all done with copper and magnesium electrodes. Last year when I first made the cells I only used copper and aluminum as that was all I had at the time, since then I use copper and magnesium since it gives more voltage. The magnesium won't corrode if you avoid water.
5. The link for the spreadsheet was a no load, voltage only test. The idea is that a water battery voltage will go away as the water battery looses water. This was proven with the other glue cell but the crystal glue cell stayed alive above 1.3V. Yes I do run real load test on my cells. The problem is that they give low amps because they don't use water for their median. I have the 5 foot cell permantly running the LCD clock and I have my 6inch cell that is much like the 5 foot one in the way its made and it runs an analog amp meter. An analog amp meter is almost a short, its a motor that acts on a spring and I watch it to see what happens. I also chart its data and compare it to heat and humidity. Here is the link to the 6 inch cell data from it being hooked up to the analog amp meter.....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Ux4UjA5Q0ZFSGc

I did this experiment last year around the same time and got the same results, here is that video.....Glue Crystal cell does not run on water - YouTube
Hello IB. Did you happen to notice a difference in impedance with the cells you are talking about. I am running the famous Rusty LidMotor Pancake Oscillator with a small cell but get this. It won't run the oscillator unless there is a small capacitor across the the input. Any other cell doesn't need one. Anyway a small cell from a 4 inch strip of magnesium on a circuit board has a resting voltage of over 1.3 volts and has been running the oscillator for a day now at about .75-.76 volts. The voltage goes up and down slightly when the furnace goes on and changes the room temperature.
John Hav.
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:46 AM
vintasalo vintasalo is offline
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@Lid.. I looked at the muddwatt and its really cool that you can tap energy from living organisms. I noticed this when I put a copper pipe in the ground, clipped my positive side to a plant and saw a volt appear, but the power seems a bit low. What about just inserting this mud into a Car or ATV Battery? Since doing this you can get it into a multi-cell form.

@Plengo.. What if you took a new empty 12v Car battery or ATV battery and replaced the electrolyte with the contents of a crystal cell. Every chamber use a turkey baster and fill up with your mix. Even use IB Glue cell maybe?

I'm thinking about trying these idea's out myself Guys
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:54 AM
vintasalo vintasalo is offline
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Hello IB. Did you happen to notice a difference in impedance with the cells you are talking about. I am running the famous Rusty LidMotor Pancake Oscillator with a small cell but get this. It won't run the oscillator unless there is a small capacitor across the the input. Any other cell doesn't need one. Anyway a small cell from a 4 inch strip of magnesium on a circuit board has a resting voltage of over 1.3 volts and has been running the oscillator for a day now at about .75-.76 volts. The voltage goes up and down slightly when the furnace goes on and changes the room temperature.
John Hav.
DadHav.. Have you tried putting this outside in the sun? It seems as though you could have a pielter effect as well. Roof shingles is all i can think of connected through a grid system to power a home. Ingenious Idea!! I thought of it first though!!
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:02 AM
vintasalo vintasalo is offline
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@IBpointless.. thanks for the link! Good job

I tried the same two ingredients awhile back When I first saw John Hutchinson's Crystal Cell.. Damn lol, that is the guy who got me Exploring this Journey. I tried them with sodium silicate but it seemed to burn the mag! I'm gonna test this again.

Damn Multi-Meter broke so waiting for Mail replacement. I tried your idea with 3 different types of Elmer Glue so I'm interested to see the results
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:11 AM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Originally Posted by DadHav View Post
Hello IB. Did you happen to notice a difference in impedance with the cells you are talking about. I am running the famous Rusty LidMotor Pancake Oscillator with a small cell but get this. It won't run the oscillator unless there is a small capacitor across the the input. Any other cell doesn't need one. Anyway a small cell from a 4 inch strip of magnesium on a circuit board has a resting voltage of over 1.3 volts and has been running the oscillator for a day now at about .75-.76 volts. The voltage goes up and down slightly when the furnace goes on and changes the room temperature.
John Hav.
In past post I would say it is better to have your cell charge a capacitor instead of trying to run the load off the cell directly. The capacitor and a cell work great together. Make a couple of cell and have them charge capacitor and notice the effects it gives. See the voltage before hooking it up to the capacitor and see the voltage after being hooked up to a capacitor. You may need to use a low farad capacitor. Heat will affect a cell.
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  #4303  
Old 11-07-2012, 02:57 AM
plengo plengo is offline
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@Plengo.. What if you took a new empty 12v Car battery or ATV battery and replaced the electrolyte with the contents of a crystal cell. Every chamber use a turkey baster and fill up with your mix. Even use IB Glue cell maybe?

I'm thinking about trying these idea's out myself Guys
I have already 4 batteries brand new waiting for the right moment. Now I am testing the limits of the Lead/Alum cells. They don't die. I have a new test running and it is already 2 weeks and she does not die, actually the voltage keeps increasing.

Unfortunately the power is extremely small which does not justify to use them for my crystal mix inside until I know what will happen exactly beforehand.

I am now working on a new dry cell too. Pennies from 1979 and before are very good.

Fausto.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:14 PM
vintasalo vintasalo is offline
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I have already 4 batteries brand new waiting for the right moment. Now I am testing the limits of the Lead/Alum cells. They don't die. I have a new test running and it is already 2 weeks and she does not die, actually the voltage keeps increasing.

Unfortunately the power is extremely small which does not justify to use them for my crystal mix inside until I know what will happen exactly beforehand.

I am now working on a new dry cell too. Pennies from 1979 and before are very good.

Fausto.

I did the penny exercises on and off.. I believe its before 81 at about 82 the FED started counterfeiting our money and putting zinc inside to fool us.

I ground the 83 and up pennies down to zinc and just brushed up one side of the real copper pennies to test.

I did find an interesting video on magic rocks growing in a Sodium silicate mix which leads me to believe that were actually tapping into the GROWING of crystals in our crystal cells

Time-Lapse Magic Rocks - YouTube
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  #4305  
Old 11-08-2012, 11:21 AM
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my apologies for intruding on your discussion .... but i thought the following might interest you ..... ice is crystal after all

PeltierModule-JouleThief-Fridge.avi - YouTube

i know some are experimenting with the Joule Ringer 3.0
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  #4306  
Old 11-11-2012, 10:35 PM
vintasalo vintasalo is offline
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@MonsierM.. When you watch the whole video the ice works as well as the cold water. This goes to show how tornadoes and hurricanes form. Hot and Cold together produce an electrical current

@IBpointless.. I did an experiment with three different glues plus sodium silicate. What i found was that the regular school glue worked the best and provided the best output or MA.

Elmer Glues:

Craft bond/ Glue all/ School glue all had the same copper/ mag setup

The School Glue worked the best! Now I'm going to try a few different materials in the glue
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:36 PM
DadHav DadHav is offline
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Glue Power

Hello, I've tried a few experiments with the school glue. I cut some 4 inch strips of circuit board plate and glued a small piece of magnesium to the copper with the Epsom and Salt substitute. I also tried a few combinations with Alum. I actually had pretty good luck with the glue. I was able to run the Tesla coil oscillator with no problem. It stopped after a full day but after disconnecting for a full day and connecting again it's been running strong for about a week know. I also tried a cell made from pennies. So this would be a zinc / copper cell with the glue / Epsom / salt sub in between the pieces. I set the cell in a food dehydrator while clamped together for about a half day and it seemed to be dry enough to test. The cell was just over 3 volts and could light a diode without an oscillator. Thought the day the voltage dropped just below the on voltage for the LED. So far it runs very strong on the Tesla coil / Rusty LidMotor oscillator. I can easily light a 24 LED display and hold a voltage of about 1.3 volts. I don't know if it will hold up but it's really cute. I had corrosion on the strip cell with alum but don't know yet about the plain glue.
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  #4308  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:14 PM
DadHav DadHav is offline
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Extra picture

Hey you forgot one picture: The Powerpenny cell running 24 LED's with the Tesla / Rusty LidMotor Pancake Coil Oscillator.
John Hav.
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  #4309  
Old 11-15-2012, 06:13 PM
vintasalo vintasalo is offline
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Hey you forgot one picture: The Powerpenny cell running 24 LED's with the Tesla / Rusty LidMotor Pancake Coil Oscillator.
John Hav.
Not to shabby.. Looks bright! I had a voltaic pile of these and eventually the power was lost, yet I was using Sodium silicate as my previous glue. I'll have to try this again with the school glue.

I'm going to try some experiments with different elements added to the epson/salt sub/ glue mix and see what results i get.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:38 PM
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@DadHav and vintasalo,
I did some experiments with glue using different mixes based on the Monothermal Patent that proved to be very good cells, using copper/magnesium and also copper/zinc pennies that proved to be interesting cells. The warmer temps brought considerably higher output to these cells and they ended up lasting for several months. At the time these were made, I did not have the pancake joule thief or the penny joule thief that lidmotor shared with us. I ran LED’s directly from the cells. Since I could not get my hands on Phosphorus Red, I sort of drifted away from this method, but your work has gotten me interested in giving this another go. Crazy thing was plant fertilizer gave me some of my best results. When the cells expired, there was no or at least very little degradation of the metals. See the chart in the pdf and try to select mixes with that in mind. Please post results if you decide to try anything like this.
Brad S
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MONOTHERMAL[1].pdf (217.2 KB, 12 views)
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:14 PM
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Just wanted to post an update, here is an image of a pure zinc/lead cell after about 10 discharge cycles. Doesn't seem to be degrading much, although the led did eventually go out after a couple days.
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9471/zlc3.jpg

I tried a graphite/lead cell with the same mix, but it didn't show the same response.
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5383/glc2.jpg
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6573/glc2c1.jpg
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:10 PM
DadHav DadHav is offline
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@DadHav and vintasalo,
I did some experiments with glue using different mixes based on the Monothermal Patent that proved to be very good cells, using copper/magnesium and also copper/zinc pennies that proved to be interesting cells. The warmer temps brought considerably higher output to these cells and they ended up lasting for several months. At the time these were made, I did not have the pancake joule thief or the penny joule thief that lidmotor shared with us. I ran LED’s directly from the cells. Since I could not get my hands on Phosphorus Red, I sort of drifted away from this method, but your work has gotten me interested in giving this another go. Crazy thing was plant fertilizer gave me some of my best results. When the cells expired, there was no or at least very little degradation of the metals. See the chart in the pdf and try to select mixes with that in mind. Please post results if you decide to try anything like this.
Brad S
Brad / Vin
I'm just bouncing around trying different things to see what might work but you are right my cell sort of died out after about a week of running the oscillator. Let me tell you some interesting things that took place. I decided to try charging the cell made from the pennies. I laughed when I hooked up the power supply because the impedance is so high on cell that it didn't mater what voltage I set, it wouldn't draw any current on the readout. So in this case it would mean that at 20 volts the current draw had to be less than 10ma to not show up on the PS meter. OK so I just plugged it into the output of my window motor that was running on a capacitor at about 2.2 volts. The output was a little higher with about 10 volt spikes. After a few hours and about an hour prior on the power supply, the cell lit the diode again. After the cell settled down to 2.452 volts it has been lighting the diode for several hours and has only dropped to 2.450 and it is fluctuating at that voltage. This looks like it's going to run a long time on a charge. I didn't expect that at all. OK, the bad news is the cell impedance is hard to work with. My window motor that will usually run at under a volt will not run on this penny cell even at 1.5 - 2 volts. It's hard to get used to and you keep thinking you must be out of tune but it's the cell impedance. You can have voltage that the load doesn't draw down but you have very little current to back up the voltage. WATT did I just say. Now to add to that I checked the current draw on the diode that was lit but not real bright. It was running at 5 uA. This is a diode from a $1.00 lawn light from Dollar tree. I never remembered these running so low. It's not surprising that the cell isn't dropping fast. I made another cell and this time ground the Epsom / Salt substitute into a very fine powder before adding the glue. I used the School Glue version of Elmer's and used only about the equivalent of maybe 4 drops to mix about a tablespoon full of salts. At first it doesn't want to mix but then the salts seem to let go of some moisture. I sanded the pennies with a 3 inch rubber backed sanding disk in the drill press. (naturally one side) I also filed the zinc side edge into a chamfer. One by one I piled up the pennies with about 1/6 inch of past between each layer. The wires where already soldered on the end pieces. I squeeze the whole stack in a small tooling vise with insulators so not to short the cell out, and then put the whole thing in the food dehydrator at about 150 degrees F for about 5 or 6 hours. After that I clean the outside of the cell carefully to make sure no paste is on the outside of the cell. I was trying not to get any current path from the zinc penny face to the edge of the coin. Thats the reason for the chamfer, it makes it easier to separate the anode and cathode.
Notes:
-Very high impedance. Voltage can actually be there without much current.
-Rechargeable? It looks like it. Still checking to see if it stays charged. Also some like to charge these cells with a dry cell. This would be perfect because you wouldn't draw much current from the charge battery and the voltage doesn't seem to matter.
Anyway this is all straight off the cuff and the whole thing could change tomorrow but I thought I'd jump in while the conversation is fresh.
I'm sorry if IB or JB or anyone else has already posted something similar. I just can't seem to read enough anymore.
Thanks for the fun idea IB. It's been fun even if it doesn't pan out. If it works good we can turn our walls into giant glue cells.
Take care all.
John Hav.
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  #4313  
Old 11-16-2012, 04:01 PM
plengo plengo is offline
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Mr Hav,

your pennies cell is super interesting. I am working with pennies now too (Crystal Cell Dry - 1 - Cooking - YouTube.

My technique is towards protecting the Magnesium. I think I did it. In this video, I am using a mix of Alum and MnO2 to corrode first 1mm of the Magnesium surface.

What this does is create a layer that does not allow any longer Alum with water to corrode the metal. If no excessive water is used.

On top of that I put another mix (which I will show on another video) of Alum, Epson and Di-Carbonate Sodium which becomes a "fomy" structure that loves water and it is very conductive.

In the end I have a cell the produces a good current, 2 to 5ma at .4v constantly until need a, literally, drop of water, that never reaches the Magnesium.

Fausto.
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  #4314  
Old 11-17-2012, 07:17 PM
Allwest Allwest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
They run at 1.2 volts at 2 Ma to run the led he needs two cells unless you use the oscillator.

Hmmm 1.47 volts 1.4Ma without charge (close maybe)

Allwest "DRY" power cell - YouTube
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  #4315  
Old 11-19-2012, 01:02 AM
Allwest Allwest is offline
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To All

I think I know where the power is coming from on these dry crystal cells,

My testing shows this but...

Just to confirm IB has the perfect setup to test the theory

IB, you around?
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  #4316  
Old 11-19-2012, 03:11 AM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Yeah IB, your the best! Your crystal glue cell rocks! Just don't know why they keep on working for so long. I quit on working on bedini's cells because they need water and corode away but yours with aluminium and copper, wow! We need to know why this is working but we all know, in the micro-amp range..
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:23 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Yes I'm still around and still working on my cells.

"It was brought to my attention that the Crystal glue cell could be making magnesium chloride. Magnesium chloride absorbs water from the air like crazy. So if its making magnesium chloride that its nothing more than a water battery. So I ran some test that can not confirm that its pulling water from the air and thus is the reason why it works. I've made a table salt and Epsom salt glue cell and it has the same opportunities to make magnesium chloride but it does not and it dies off. Also physical appearance of the crystal glue cell to the magnesium chloride cell shows that the crystal glue cell rock hard while the magnesium chloride cell is wet and gooey. If the crystal glue cell was pulling water from the air than the glue would never dry and it would remain wet looking like the magnesium chloride and glue cell. It can not be confirmed that the crystal glue cell is a water battery."

Video.... Is The Magnesium Chloride the Reason why the Crystal Glue Cell works - YouTube

Here is the data...... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...TN2Q2pfWjVKZVE
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:18 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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Crystal glue cell under load

I have a question for you IB: I've made your crystal glue cell and yes the voltage is steady but as soon as I load it, the current jump back up but then it runs down to almost nothing (it takes a long time to do it). Maybe it's the wrong kind of glue? The glue becomes transparent when it dries and is non-toxic. It's all purpose white glue but not the elmers brand. I have some elmers wood glue too but I think it contains some nasty chemicals to make it bonds to the wood more easily. I just made a simple test: I cut between the copper and aluminium strips to separate them and I placed the copper over the aluminium to see if I have a ''skin effect'' like in your videos and....Nothing...Strange! Why??
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Last edited by CrystalDipoleMatrix; 11-19-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:29 PM
CrystalDipoleMatrix CrystalDipoleMatrix is offline
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I will make another cell with the elmers wood glue to see if it's the chemicals in the elmers brand that changes everything.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:09 PM
ibpointless2 ibpointless2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post
I have a question for you IB: I've made your crystal glue cell and yes the voltage is steady but as soon as I load it, the current jump back up but then it runs down to almost nothing (it takes a long time to do it). Maybe it's the wrong kind of glue? The glue becomes transparent when it dries and is non-toxic. It's all purpose white glue but not the elmers brand. I have some elmers wood glue too but I think it contains some nasty chemicals to make it bonds to the wood more easily. I just made a simple test: I cut between the copper and aluminium strips to separate them and I placed the copper over the aluminium to see if I have a ''skin effect'' like in your videos and....Nothing...Strange! Why??


The glue itself has nothing to do with why the cell works. Its the water in the glue that is key. The water in the glue allows the salt sub and Epsom salt to mix into something else. When the glue dries the water is being evaporated from it so the glue becomes hard. When the water evaporates the "something else" that is created is what allows the cells to keep working without having to add water to it. The skin effect is why my 5 foot tall, 6 inch, and 2 foot crystal copper tube cells work. Same ingredients (salt sub and Epsom salt) but glue is not used. The Glue is merely a support and has no real purpose other than to act as a support. The key point is that water is needed to mix the two salts into one salt, and when the water evaporates the cell still works. When other cells dry out they stop working but my cells keep going.

I'm still searching for the "Why" it works and I thought it could have been Magnesium chloride was the reason but testing showed that it can't be confirmed. So far its still unknown why my cells work.
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