Great work Lidmotor!




@John Bedini

It looks like the cells you sent Lidmotor were pressure cells? Have you charted these cells yet? They're very interesting, almost magical?

so is your cell phone but a shoe-boxed sized battery will not create any more radiation than said cell phone yet should be able to create 9 amps non stop for a lifetime.

Thank you Lidmor for the the vid

on a side note .... water has many properties you could test your batteries :

test with temperature hot / warm / cold water

ph differences alkaline vs acidic water

but the interesting one that can be done easy:



you can add magnets to the central part ... also called M State water

thought you might be curious to test it on your already made Crystal Batteries

more info here : The Golden Tractate of Hermes Trismegistus applied to electromagnetism

also

The five (5) components of acid water are as follows:

Low pH from 2-4
High ORP from +800 to +1200
Micro clustered.
Hypochlorous acid component from 1-30 mg/l
Heavy in H+ which acts as an oxidizer.

I agree 100%. I too feel annoyed when I read anything like those two words together.

The volts range 3.5 to 3.8, but I am only getting 5Ma

I am not sure anything can run on this power?

@ Allwest and All:
You'll need to make a low draw oscillator like the ones in my pictures below.
I got some cells running on 0.4 volts, and anywhere from 2 mA to 60mAs from the two different circuits and carbon/ aluminum cells shown below. Pictures are showing the aluminum tubes that were filled with carbon/sand mix to make my new cells.
I also made a video, sorry it came out so dark. I must have been in a romantic mood...
Activated Carbon/Aluminum- wet beach sand cells- - YouTube

[quote=Lidmotor;180329]@All
The "self-watering" setup that I showed in my last video has a problem----too much watering. Last night the cell over watered itself and drown. It was way down in power this morning but did recover when it dried out. The trick is getting a wicking setup to just give the cell a tiny amount of water. It is very similar to adjusting the flame on a keroscene lantern.

Hi Lidmotor
I was wondering if a wick off the cell would allow excess water to evap.
I was thinking to try running the water through the cell so to speak to see if it might increase the output but your half way there and I'm soooooooooooo
slow. Just thought I'd mention it.
I envision a wick from the water container to between the Mg and the Crystal media then a wick on the other side of the Crystal media and whatever is used for the pos element to hang out in the air. Maybe spread out to allow for good evaporation. Might be able to kinda draw the water thru ????
Might be good to try in the other direction also, one way might work better than the other. who knows haha
I am very impressed with your step by steps. Keep up the good work.
FrznWtr

Attached Images

Moisture Flow.pdf (130.6 KB, 11 views)

[quote=FrozenWaterLab;186680] Thanks for bringing that up. I have been meaning to mention what happened with that cell. It was a major success when I finally got it working right. It is the Plengo cell that has the copper cap and the piece of anode Mg in the middle. I put about an 1/8" of water in the capped clear plastic container and it works great. The cotton string wicks the water up and onto the top of the cell at the right rate now. When the water is just about gone in the container I just add 1/8" more. It depends on the air humidity how fast the water is used. We have between 50% and 70% here in Southern California at the coast.
Your "sandwich" idea might work also.

Lidmotor

Hi All

Check out the latest cell

I am calling this The Allwest Tooth Paste Power Cell

Allwest Power Cell # 3 - YouTube

beware of the april fools...

I created a new cell using MnO2 that is mixed with different compounds. I am trying around 5 different combination with this new ingredient.

Some of the cells I leave it open to the air and other I enclose it in Aluminum HVAC duck tape which is excellent and air tight.

The cells that are open to the air simply loose too much power too fast and no matter how much water you put it in. The enclosed or air tight cell runs very well and only needs a little bit of water every 3 weeks or so to full brightness again.

I can conclude that Oxigen WILL KILL the cell when using Magnesium (Mg). I don't know why but the outcome of two different setups is very repeatable and obvious. I don't think it is the water containment in this case.

Off course the water makes things work but when it has too much Oxigen somehow the cell stops working so since Oxigen is the most important element in Oxidation (aka. Galvanization and deterioration) I think that one of the secrets is indeed keeping the amount of available Oxigen to its minimun so that Water (H2O) is the only element to give it up.

Now, that goes very inline with Bedini's concepts of keeping the water locked int the molecule such as XXXX5H2O compounds such as Epson salts, Rochelle Salts and so on.

Cooking this particular cell with MnO2 also works very well. The biggest problem is how to make water go through the whole cell as it grows in size. My cells now are 3" height and 2" Diameter so that is a lot of more material for the water to go through.

The black or gray oxidation over the Mg stops at a certain point and either the cell dies or if using the correct formula and "geometry" the cells still keeps going even after ALL the Mg is transformed into gray material. Figures why!

My first cell is still running with a drop of water after one month. She is now old since August last year. The 1/4 cap size cell with no oscillator.

Fausto.

ps: I got this email today: [NOW AVAILABLE] TigerDirect.com - INTRODUCING THE WORLD'S FIRST HOME MINI-NUCLEAR GENERATOR

One more thing i forgot to share.

Some cells likes to operate under the Oscillators. They give a lot more current when under the oscillator or shorted while other cells like to be without the oscillators and they usually live at the 1 to 5ma range.

So those cells without oscillator when put 3 or more in series you can light LEDS very brightly for a long time while the ones that likes the Oscillators will only need one cell.

I noticed that the cells like to give as much current as they can. The oscillators are very capable of doing exactly that. They can extract as much current as possible and therefore works great for those cells.

What I have been doing to not have to use the oscillator is to put many LEDs in parallel. Now my bigger cells are running with around 3 to 6 LEDs in parallel wich requires a larger amount of current to be delivered by the cell while giving a good amount of light.

Fausto.

Attached Images

1.jpg (59.8 KB, 24 views)

Hi Plengo

Big power on those cells!

No oscillator, very impressive

What kind of LED's are you running, and where can you get them?

Have you tried dielectric grease on the magnesium?, it virtually almost stops the decay, with very little power drop from un-greased magnesium

Thanks

P.S.

Note to all: The last cell # 3, the meter needed new batteries, so probably a false reading on volts, but the cell did light the LED by just using tooth paste and water

Those are 10mm LEDs I bought on Ebay. About 500 for $20 bucks or so.

No I have not tried grease. Can you post a link for which kind of grease to use?

Fausto.

Plengo

You can buy this at any auto store

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...-Up_Grease.htm

Teflon also works to protect mag, and still allows electric flow

You may already know about piezoelectric, But when you deform the crystal it makes electricity, you deform crystals with heat or movement

The cells you are making is creating current, drawing current from these cells causes heat, it is heating up the cell

When you heat up a cell that has crystals then you are deforming the crystals that cause a Piezoelectric effect, Piezoelectric is made from crystals, or ceramic

Piezoelectric speaker element generates electricity - YouTube

So your getting a bigger bang for your buck by putting crystals in these cells

The galvanic part of the cell is activating-deforming the crystal part of the cell that generates more power, this is why I think when you put a load on these cells the power goes up

Just some thoughts

Your thoughts?

Here are the Piezoelectric materials to use in your cells


Piezoelectric materials

Some more thoughts

Galvanic cells or concentrate cells create more voltage when you use the most neg compound with the most pos compound
Standard electrode potential (data page) Standard electrode potential (data page) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Thats why copper & magnesium gives more power than copper & zinc

If you look at the most neg compound on the chart, it is Fluorine, thats why I choose to use fluoride toothpaste for my cell # 3, you don't even need the copper in the cell, you can read off the toothpaste

I think a fluorine battery would be far superior to all current batteries of today
__________________________________________________ ____________
Why do we use doping agents in these cells in between to dissimilar metals or compounds

I believe it is to enhance the electron flows and increase the potential power between compounds

These doping agents are categorized as

N-type semiconductors. This creates an excess of negative (n-type) electron charge carriers. N-type semiconductor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

N-type
Nitrogen group - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


p-type semiconductor (p for Positive)P-type semiconductor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Here is the p-type
Boron group - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

So the mission is to get the best doping agent to go with the pos and neg compounds, to get the most power
__________________________________________________ ___
I think the thought mission here is, or should be, to activate the piezoelectric from the crystals within or in combination with the galvanic cells

Just some thoughts on a boring Sunday

@Allwest,

thank you for the tips. I just purchased the grease thingy and I will give it a try.

Fausto.

Fausto,

You may want to try some Oxygen removal methods. Try using Oxygen Free Copper, or Copper (II) Oxide or both. See these links:
http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/pdf/airgas.pdf
GCSE SCIENCE CHEMISTRY HIGH SCHOOL - Experiment to find the amount of Oxygen in the Air - gcsescience.com.
Oxygen-free copper - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

My understanding is that it IS possible to preserve the components if one knows how. And I'm sure John B has worked it out already, I'm waiting for John B to reveal all.

Love your work Fausto!
Alex.

I have EXCELLENT news to our member fellas here.

I opened my 5 cell flat Mg, copper, Iron Pyrite, Carbon, paper cell again. The first time I opened I notice corrosion on the Mg side of it. So I added MnO2 to it and put it back.

Everyday I put water on this 5 cells connected in series running one LED no osc. Everyday I actually put the whole thing in the sink and open the faucet until they are totally sokken wet. Light goes bright and I let it there until next night I repeat the process.

I has been now about 2 months running like that and after one month I opened and noticed slow corrosion on the Mg. After adding MnO2 I see NO CORROSION any more. It totally stopped it on the cells I put it on.

On the cells I left WITHOUT MnO2 it continued corroding as expected but not on the ones with MnO2.

I have some cells running also with this MnO2 in other geometries that I will open eventually too, but for now I can certainly say that MnO2 with Iron Pyrite do protect the Magnesium substantially and it makes this cells a much more viable project.

Fausto.

ps: this is NOT NEWS BECAUSE of April first. I am serious.

Plengo:
Thank you for the information on the success of using the iron pyrite and the MnO2 in the electrolyte mix on your tests to help fight off the oxidation. Very important news. This is what we all needed to have confirmed.
I've also been using a conductive grease on my cells and their connections. It was given to me by the public power and light company, they use is on all their copper/aluminum connections. This is a conductive grease, instead.
NickZ

Probably this was a typo: You meant - MnO2 (Manganese Dioxide) not MgO2 (Magnesium Dioxide)??!!.

Fausto.

Hi all, I have a link to share to everyone. They have this technology already...

Energy Harvesting - MEC - Micro-Battery Backup Power Solutions

I read a few years back that the next major discovery in energy would be the ability to store energy. We are very good at creating energy, poor in storing it. This type of developement will make solar and wind much more viable. Good Find!

Plengo and All:
Yes, correct, it is a typo error on my part. I meant Manganese Dioxide (MnO2). The error has been fixed.

I am having some good luck now with using aluminum/ activated carbon/ sand, regular salt mix, and am getting 50 to 60 mA per cell. The main trick is maintaining PRESSURE on the cells.
My last cell is a big 3 inch tall aluminum tube cell 1 1/4 wide, is using the semiconductor treated copper tube, with cloth separator. It is giving me 1.2 volts. So, not so bad for no cost cells, now putting out some useable light.

I am going to open up another carbon/zinc D cell remove the MnO2, and make a cell using that again. As I was able to light a red led by itself on a previously made Mn02 cell. Can I just add silica pellets straight into the electrolyte mix? I'm still looking for the pyrite, also.
The carbon and salt electrolyte combination is a winner though... as carbon absorbs the salt and water like a sponge, but the cell burns them up, like a jet afterburner.
My last cell is sealed, and is still having a watering hole on top, but, with a removable rubber plug on the watering hole, to keep additional moisture at bay.
I'm still working on new cells, but will upload some pics soon.
NickZ

Thanks for posting that link. This was well worth the time to look at this and watch a video on what these thin cells can do. Pay special attention to HOW this cell works. The way that the electrons and ions move in the electrolyte sounds like what John has been talking about in his cells. The big difference is that these cell are stricly storage devices. They don't produce the energy on their own. They are just rechargables but they were designed to easily accept "ambient energy" of very low power levels (RF, heat, vibration, and light) from a gathering device such as a solar cell or a piezio element. These cells last almost forever like a capacitor and they don't leak away the energy.
Cool stuff.

Lidmotor

Yeah, just saw the demo videos. Now I understand that big difference! My mistake...

Maybe trying to heat the MNO2 to form MN2O3 and comparing the results ? John was talking about using mn2o3. But I was reading about the mn2o3 that was a biproduct from the redox reaction of mno2 in an alkaline cell. I'm not sure which form to use...

I've found that heating iron pyrite will kill the sulfur to form fe2o3 (rust). The mineral form of mn2o3/fe2o3 is called bixbyite. It is often found with magnetite and hematite. It really mean something to me. I will make some cells with my heated iron pyrite and powdered bixbyite as doping. Will see!