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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #1561  
Old 08-10-2011, 05:46 AM
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Web000x Web000x is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
To All,
Some things you can do to test if the coil has the right impedance.
and checking to see the cap is getting the most charge.

For those that have gone to the conference. I explained that the machine needed an extra coil to balance the impedance out so this is an easy check. It should work with the original Bedini/ Cole motor switch. Brent, your machine from what you said should almost be right on.

Sorry this Forum is very quiet at this time when it should be hopping. I hope this little spat between digital and analog has not discourage you from your work as I just ignore it all, it's not important who is right or wrong. It is important to finish your machine and get it working.
Hope this gets more active soon. Another thing almost left out,
use a low impedance coil to check around 3.3 Ohms, you can clip lead it in the circuit, you will know if the machine speeds up.

John B
I had to leave my home for a week for an out of town job. I have observed some very interesting effects that I must do more experimentation on to find out the exact origin/eliminate possible error. I didn't want to start running my mouth without properly understanding what I was looking at.

I'll be home Friday. I'm sure you will hear all about my observations. It has to do with using tuning coils in parallel and an analog amp meter dropping to display zero current. Something interesting is going on.

Dave
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  #1562  
Old 08-10-2011, 05:55 AM
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To All,
Look guys this is an easy thing to do, ya right. With the wheel developing toque it easy to make a pancake generator off the shaft, direct drive. The generator is nothing more then air coils energized by neo magnets it will charge the capacitor close to the battery level, about 22 volts on a 12 volt system, the size is important . The bigger the diameter of the pancake generator the slower the motor can go to make power.

Just trying to help.....
John
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  #1563  
Old 08-10-2011, 05:59 AM
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Dave
It's Ok to say because I have seen this before in some machines and on multiple coil circuits.
John
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  #1564  
Old 08-10-2011, 08:38 PM
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This is starting to get very interesting and I will test all this ideas even though I did not even see this machines, coils or circuits.
John mentioned:
"THIS IS ESSENTIALLY, A CIRCUIT OF VERY HIGH SELF-INDUCTION AND SMALL RESISTANCE"
Adding an air core cole of low resistance in parallel with the main coil will certainly lower the resistance.
But coils in parallel will also lower the inductance. I did not measure yet but could it be that the air core coil has a much lower inductance so that putting it in parallel with the big coil the resistance goes lower a lot more and the inductance only a little?

John you also mentioned the air core , neo generator. I guess it must be much like a wind generator. Or did you mean that we must turn Tesla pancake bifilar coils and use that with the neos.
Now that I read it again it looks like you mean a pancake shaped generator with air cores.
Regards
Vissie
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  #1565  
Old 08-10-2011, 09:07 PM
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this is the pancake generator right?
10 kW, 15Phase Axial flux pancake generator for 2-blade Wind Turbine

I have used an air coil inline w/ the power coil using the bipolar ckt in a window motor. here is an example of what I did:

‪Window Motor - adding coils in series‬‏ - YouTube

it both speeds up the rotor and lowers the amp draw.
I will see what it does to have it in parallel - I was not at the conference so I have no idea what I am looking for. any enlightenment will be much appreciated.

Patrick
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  #1566  
Old 08-10-2011, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Les K,
Yes I go along with you so I ended the subject because we both know and the others are just finding out.

Les, Tom Bearden has been at this for as long as I have known him.
Yes you must tune the circuit I did this for the show model John K had some good insight on all of this as I showed him and Eric how to do this when they could not get the machine to run.

You need to be at about 1 ampere or more with this circuit. so it is important that all the devices are matched at about the same current. For you guys here I will see about running some you-tubes on the demonstration that I gave at the conference. I think we all need a refresher here.

Les that coil can be an air coil away from the machine as the current oscillates between the two. Let me see how much time I have tomorrow to do this for the group. I will try to do the switch also.
John B
Thanks John,
Look forward to your reviews. I am about 100% certain Brent and the others are deep in their shop right now no doubt we will hear from those Texan's pretty soon.

I have been reading Tom beardens work for some time I should be finished soon in about twenty years or so... You are both heroes in my book.
Any way thanks john for all this help. Things will really start popping when we get those pulser circuits...

Les
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  #1567  
Old 08-10-2011, 11:01 PM
Les_K Les_K is offline
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Thanks John,
Look forward to your reviews. I am about 100% certain Brent and the others are deep in their shop right now no doubt we will hear from those Texan's pretty soon.

I have been reading Tom beardens work for some time I should be finished soon in about twenty years or so... You are both heroes in my book.
Any way thanks john for all this help. Things will really start popping when we get those pulser circuits...

Les
Argh... That's a pun on popping nothing more...

Les
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  #1568  
Old 08-11-2011, 02:41 AM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Tuning Coil

John B,

Are you saying that we will not have to add an additional coil for tuning?

And if not, how do we determine the right impedance for our machine?

Scott and I are still working on our circuits that you showed at the conference, but the circuit that we are using now (standard Bedini/Cole) still flashes the neon lights that are attached to the transistors. It is only on the 94s. Is this an indication of not being tuned? Any suggestions?


Thanks, Brent

Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
To All,
Some things you can do to test if the coil has the right impedance.
and checking to see the cap is getting the most charge.

For those that have gone to the conference. I explained that the machine needed an extra coil to balance the impedance out so this is an easy check. It should work with the original Bedini/ Cole motor switch. Brent, your machine from what you said should almost be right on.

Sorry this Forum is very quiet at this time when it should be hopping. I hope this little spat between digital and analog has not discourage you from your work as I just ignore it all, it's not important who is right or wrong. It is important to finish your machine and get it working.
Hope this gets more active soon. Another thing almost left out,
use a low impedance coil to check around 3.3 Ohms, you can clip lead it in the circuit, you will know if the machine speeds up.

John B
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  #1569  
Old 08-11-2011, 02:50 AM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Bedini GT3

Les K,

You are correct...

We are diligently working on the circuits and the other items that we picked up on at the conference...one step at a time! Still lots to test, lots to learn with lots of questions. Glad to see the thread activity again!

Maybe we will have a video (post conference) to share soon.


Thanks, Brent


Quote:
Originally Posted by Les_K View Post
I am about 100% certain Brent and the others are deep in their shop right now no doubt we will hear from those Texan's pretty soon.
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  #1570  
Old 08-11-2011, 03:07 AM
John_K John_K is offline
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Bedini GT3

Hi All,

Just wanted to add that when I was talking to Erik after the conference about the 13' wheel we spoke a lot about tuning.

I wasn't with John and Erik when they were tuning Erik's machine, but I do remember Erik saying that on the 13' GT3 the 2 slave coils were mainly there as tuning coils. I believe that John wanted them to tune the main coil, but rather than have them sitting on the base he decided to mount them around the rotor to use them to generate more torque.

Now we see that on John's GT1 that he showed at the conference he still has the 2 slave coils and also the air cored tuning coil. All of the coils are wired in parallel. I really think that John B has further advanced the original setup by adding the air cored tuning coil. This will make it a lot easier for the guys that are building to get the results they're looking for. I imagnine you could to a similar trick with an SSG circuit, but that's just a hunch.

@John B, feel free to correct me if I've got it wrong. It's hard to remember every detail of what I heard and saw.


John K.
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  #1571  
Old 08-11-2011, 03:30 AM
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Brent,
If I remember your coils are just almost like mine, if not you can tune it this way if need be. You will know as the capacitor will be slow to charge. The current in the bi-polar switch is important. Eric's machine was charging at about 300 Ma when it was running. For that machine I needed 1 and 1/2 amps on the analog meter to the charging batteries. The extra coil allowed me to tune it. I wish Eric had more time as I was going to try something else with that machine. Eric also had a very small bi-polar switch which did not help, but worked well for the show. If you looked in my box at the show my switch was much bigger with all matched devices. Again when the tuning is right the machine will increase speed. I need to buy a battery for my camera as it is had it and cant be charged, the world of lithium computer controlled batteries.
John
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  #1572  
Old 08-11-2011, 03:49 AM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Bedini GT3

John B,

Yes, our coils are exactly the same size as your 13 ft. BFW...

What would cause the neon light on the MJL21194 transistors to flash?


Thanks, Brent


Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Brent,
If I remember your coils are just almost like mine, if not you can tune it this way if need be. You will know as the capacitor will be slow to charge. The current in the bi-polar switch is important. Eric's machine was charging at about 300 Ma when it was running. For that machine I needed 1 and 1/2 amps on the analog meter to the charging batteries. The extra coil allowed me to tune it. I wish Eric had more time as I was going to try something else with that machine. Eric also had a very small bi-polar switch which did not help, but worked well for the show. If you looked in my box at the show my switch was much bigger with all matched devices. Again when the tuning is right the machine will increase speed. I need to buy a battery for my camera as it is had it and cant be charged, the world of lithium computer controlled batteries.
John
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  #1573  
Old 08-12-2011, 03:06 AM
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Brent,
What Neon light, are you using the bedini /cole circuit? hope your not running the SG circuit.
John B
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  #1574  
Old 08-12-2011, 03:45 AM
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Neon light

John B,

It's on the standard Bedini/Cole circuit...

Let me clarify. When we first got the wheel spinning we were getting lots of heat on the transistors. It was recommended by someone to put the neon lights on to help save the transistors and what we noticed was they would only illuminate on the 93s. (I think I said 94s earlier). Just watched the video again for a refresher on...Post 1403...that Scott had posted.

Not much experience with the Bedini/Cole circuit, let alone coils of this size! Any input would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks, Brent

Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Brent,
What Neon light, are you using the bedini /cole circuit? hope your not running the SG circuit.
John B
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  #1575  
Old 08-12-2011, 04:03 AM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Comparator Circuit

John B,

Have a question about the comparator circuit...

Can you tell us what the comparator circuit is comparing? Since it appears as if the only input is the capacitor voltage, is it comparing the negative potential against the positive potential? At what point does the circuit determine that those are at a point to release the cap across the battery. Can you shed some light on what we are comparing?


Thanks, Brent
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  #1576  
Old 08-13-2011, 09:19 PM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Bedini GT3

John B,

Were you able to determine what is going on with the neon lights?

Also, I think we are close on the circuits. Can you recommend a good op-amp device!


Many thanks, Brent
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  #1577  
Old 08-18-2011, 04:36 PM
wheatbelt.radio wheatbelt.radio is offline
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Greetings All,

ive made almost 20 ssg type machines too play with the geometry, the more exciting potential ideas i try, the closer i realize JohnB is on the vacuum series with seemingly somewhat arbitrary figures...

but after 2 years tinkering, i came across something ive never seen before, and i have no idea whats happening or why, dont get too excited though because sadly its a problem,

the motor is running, but producing no backemf, w-t-f.. im running on the usual 12.4v +\- input , and draining 400ma over a trifilar coil (2 drive, one trigger)

usually when this happens it means the neon died, but i stuck my finger over the transistors and they are no longer making me involuntarily jump

17 gauge wire and 22 for the trigger,

the ideal coil geometry ive experimentally found too be is 9-10cms long, 7.5cm wide, with interior core diameter too small for my thumb too squeeze into, yet big enough for my middle finger with some wigglin space

1am now, il pickup some new trannys tomorrow and post how it goes
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  #1578  
Old 08-18-2011, 04:39 PM
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and a wisker under 700grams of wire per drive coil, so 1.4kg of driver per coil
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  #1579  
Old 08-18-2011, 05:11 PM
wheatbelt.radio wheatbelt.radio is offline
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found some tip31's ....

current ones were irf 460's

same problem

motor runs, so coil in operation, yet no measureable backemf,

......

this happened all of a sudden which i why i assumed it was a partial transistor failure, 2x at the same moment, unlikley,... but still..

now i have too do some fault finding with the remaining components,... a battery and a coil of wire, ... diode perhaps even, will find out tomorrow,

hopfully find out, but its totally wack, 400ma of juice and no emf significant enough too bite me or lite neons
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  #1580  
Old 08-18-2011, 05:40 PM
wheatbelt.radio wheatbelt.radio is offline
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ok sorry about the forum spamming, but there is a valuable lesson too be learnt,

DONT BUY EBAY TRANSISTORS, unless you can be sure they are no ripoffs,

... these things have a very strange way too fail, but the weirdest part is the continuity of failure

anyway i ripped a few old 2n3055s from another machine and they always work with every motor or indeed anything ive ever built, they are a great lifeblood too have stashed away
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  #1581  
Old 08-25-2011, 03:35 AM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Bedini GT3 "Junior" Update

Hey Guys,

Been busy working on our build since being back from the July 2011 conference...

Most of our focus has been on getting the circuitry put together and with JB letting us see behind the proverbial curtain at the conference, we feel like we are headed in the right direction. BUT...we still have lots of questions.

Bedini/Cole circuit - we are experiencing extreme HEAT in our circuit (+200 degrees). We just upgraded our resistors to 5W and it is still getting HOT!!! Is it the size of our coils? Is it a tuning issue? What are we doing wrong? We don't have any neons on our transistors on our latest board, but I can bet that they would light up.

Comparator circuit - got the circuit done, but is anyone else feel like this is totally new to those of us that have been following the thread from the beginning. What happened to one black wire in and one black wire out? Scott and I asked JB at the conference and it is still not clear. When y'all get the comparator circuit working, you'll see what I'm saying.


@John B,

Our coils are identical to yours as we have tried to replicate our build as close to yours as possible. Can you give us some advice, since there is no one else that has coils this size!

@Erik N,

After spending a couple of weeks working with JB side by side on getting your build working, are there any suggestions you can make for those of us that are working on the BFW? Do you think you could have done it without his help? Starting to wonder if we need to take a road trip! Ha!

Take a look at our most recent video...

Bedini 3GT - Post Conference Update


Thanks, Brent
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  #1582  
Old 08-25-2011, 04:04 AM
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Schematic help?

@JB,

Like Brent said, we have been diligently working on the circuits you so kindly showed everyone at this past conference and we feel like we are getting close to some really good results. If we were to directly send you our current schematics, is there anyway you could look them over and possibly give us some pointers that may help us? Obviously I am not asking you to give us your schematic or even spell it out for us, but maybe just giving us some advice that will help us think it out on our own? Also, after the conference, we began to get concerned that our coils are too close and we may be overlapping fields too much. Should we be concerned about that? We talked about moving the two side coils out another magnet. What are your thoughts?

Also, we realize the goal here is to get the free energy out from this system. In a previous post, you mentioned a pancake coil generator. Is there anyway you can expand on that? Initially, the thought was to get a correct gear ratio to turn a generator because of the torque this machine produces, but we'd love to know if there was a more efficient way to do this.

Thanks again for everything at the conference!

I thoroughly enjoyed meeting a lot of the people from this thread at the conference. It's always nice to meet the person behind the screen name! John K., sorry we didn't get a chance to say goodbye, but you were pretty busy with everyone at the 30 coiler and we didn't want to interrupt.

Hope everyone is doing well!

-Scott
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  #1583  
Old 08-25-2011, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentA929 View Post
Hey Guys,

Been busy working on our build since being back from the July 2011 conference...

Most of our focus has been on getting the circuitry put together and with JB letting us see behind the proverbial curtain at the conference, we feel like we are headed in the right direction. BUT...we still have lots of questions.

Bedini/Cole circuit - we are experiencing extreme HEAT in our circuit (+200 degrees). We just upgraded our resistors to 5W and it is still getting HOT!!! Is it the size of our coils? Is it a tuning issue? What are we doing wrong? We don't have any neons on our transistors on our latest board, but I can bet that they would light up.

Comparator circuit - got the circuit done, but is anyone else feel like this is totally new to those of us that have been following the thread from the beginning. What happened to one black wire in and one black wire out? Scott and I asked JB at the conference and it is still not clear. When y'all get the comparator circuit working, you'll see what I'm saying.


@John B,

Our coils are identical to yours as we have tried to replicate our build as close to yours as possible. Can you give us some advice, since there is no one else that has coils this size!

@Erik N,

After spending a couple of weeks working with JB side by side on getting your build working, are there any suggestions you can make for those of us that are working on the BFW? Do you think you could have done it without his help? Starting to wonder if we need to take a road trip! Ha!

Take a look at our most recent video...

Bedini 3GT - Post Conference Update


Thanks, Brent

Take a picture of the motor circuit and post it here, be back to check on what I see. Sounds like no heat sink. Guess I must do a short video. As I explained the black wire was the negative to the charging battery.
Positive is right to the cap. Lets see the comparator circuit.I have no fear with you Brent but....... I can not post the circuit as it belongs to Energenx.

Look at a solid state DC switch timed with a magnetic wheel and a hall would work fine you have room on the back side of the timing wheel. three magnets is all you need.

Again,
I can not give the circuits as it belongs to energenx. I did allow everbody to view it and take pictures I also explained it. You must work on the motor drive first and get it working without heat on the devices.

I will go look at the youtube. I have a list of people that want the circuits I will be sending e-mails to. I'm not China so I can't do anything cheap my people do not work for rice. Be back.

JB
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  #1584  
Old 08-25-2011, 06:26 AM
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Bedini GT3

Brent,
You can not run the motor circuit that way, you have no heat sink at all in that video. Get the insulators and thermal grease for those devices on a sink. Just bend them over and sink them down use 4-40 screws.
John B
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  #1585  
Old 08-25-2011, 07:27 AM
John_K John_K is offline
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Hey Scott and Brent,

It was great to finally meet you guys. Sorry I didn't get more time to chat, it was a crazy 3 days but I had a blast.


John K.


Quote:
Originally Posted by txaggie00 View Post
@JB,

Like Brent said, we have been diligently working on the circuits you so kindly showed everyone at this past conference and we feel like we are getting close to some really good results. If we were to directly send you our current schematics, is there anyway you could look them over and possibly give us some pointers that may help us? Obviously I am not asking you to give us your schematic or even spell it out for us, but maybe just giving us some advice that will help us think it out on our own? Also, after the conference, we began to get concerned that our coils are too close and we may be overlapping fields too much. Should we be concerned about that? We talked about moving the two side coils out another magnet. What are your thoughts?

Also, we realize the goal here is to get the free energy out from this system. In a previous post, you mentioned a pancake coil generator. Is there anyway you can expand on that? Initially, the thought was to get a correct gear ratio to turn a generator because of the torque this machine produces, but we'd love to know if there was a more efficient way to do this.

Thanks again for everything at the conference!

I thoroughly enjoyed meeting a lot of the people from this thread at the conference. It's always nice to meet the person behind the screen name! John K., sorry we didn't get a chance to say goodbye, but you were pretty busy with everyone at the 30 coiler and we didn't want to interrupt.

Hope everyone is doing well!

-Scott
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  #1586  
Old 08-25-2011, 04:10 PM
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@John B,

Brent is taking a picture of the circuits and will post shortly. I had a quick question for you. You said to get the motor drive working first without any heat on the devices. Our transisitors are not getting hot, but our resistors are. Specifically the 220 ohm resistor even at 5W. What would your suggestion be to keep those cooler?

Thanks,
Scott

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Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Again,
I can not give the circuits as it belongs to energenx. I did allow everbody to view it and take pictures I also explained it. You must work on the motor drive first and get it working without heat on the devices.
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  #1587  
Old 08-25-2011, 04:16 PM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Bedini GT3 motor circuit

John B,

Please see attached picture...

I wasn't real clear on what was getting HOT!!! It's the resistors that are the culprit of the heat. In the picture I am showing you how we are planing on mounting the devices and I realize that those need a heat sink. The video may have been a little premature, but the transistors are not the problem, it's the resistors. Also, keep in mind that the picture shows 1W resistors and the current circuit we are working on has 5W resistors.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


Many thanks, Brent




Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Take a picture of the motor circuit and post it here, be back to check on what I see. Sounds like no heat sink. Guess I must do a short video. As I explained the black wire was the negative to the charging battery.
Positive is right to the cap. Lets see the comparator circuit.I have no fear with you Brent but....... I can not post the circuit as it belongs to Energenx.

Look at a solid state DC switch timed with a magnetic wheel and a hall would work fine you have room on the back side of the timing wheel. three magnets is all you need.

Again,
I can not give the circuits as it belongs to energenx. I did allow everbody to view it and take pictures I also explained it. You must work on the motor drive first and get it working without heat on the devices.

I will go look at the youtube. I have a list of people that want the circuits I will be sending e-mails to. I'm not China so I can't do anything cheap my people do not work for rice. Be back.

JB
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Circuit box.pdf (167.1 KB, 110 views)
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  #1588  
Old 08-25-2011, 05:25 PM
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Bedini GT3 Motor Drive

Brent,
The resistors,
Yes they do get warm.
If you looked at my board.
I used metal oxide 2 watt resistors (Mouser elec)
2.2 K is a carbon comp resistor 1/2 watt.
5 watt 15 v zener on the hall and a 680 ohm resistor 2 watt.
Space the resistors off the board for air flow.

Take 12 Volt 65 watt quartz light and put it in place of the coil, can you light it up or is just dim?
Circuit box PDF look's much better that should all work as it looks. do that test please with the motor drive.
I might change that capacitor for the best charging. maybe 10.000 uf 75 volts
John B
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  #1589  
Old 08-25-2011, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by txaggie00 View Post
@John B,

Brent is taking a picture of the circuits and will post shortly. I had a quick question for you. You said to get the motor drive working first without any heat on the devices. Our transisitors are not getting hot, but our resistors are. Specifically the 220 ohm resistor even at 5W. What would your suggestion be to keep those cooler?

Thanks,
Scott
Scott,
It was nice meeting you guys at the convention.
I assume you are running above 12v so you may want to try 3.3k in place of 470 and 2.7k in place of 220. I had the same problem on my window motor when running at higher voltages.

Alex
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:33 PM
BrentA929 BrentA929 is offline
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Posts: 116
Quartz light test

John B,

Thanks for your guidance!

We have most of what you have listed. The carbon comp resistors should be in today and we originally had 1W vs. the 2W that you are recommending. Of course we put on 5W yesterday with not much change.

One thing that I want to be real clear on...4 ft. wagon wheel (12V) vs. 12 ft. BFW (36V)...

Are these values on the components compatible with both builds?



Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Brent,
The resistors,
Yes they do get warm.
If you looked at my board.
I used metal oxide 2 watt resistors (Mouser elec)
2.2 K is a carbon comp resistor 1/2 watt.
5 watt 15 v zener on the hall and a 680 ohm resistor 2 watt.
Space the resistors off the board for air flow.
OK, we will try the test...do we do this on our 6 ft. 36V build that is getting HOT or do we need to do it on a 12V system? Eager to try this! Thanks!


Brent

Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Bedini View Post
Take 12 Volt 65 watt quartz light and put it in place of the coil, can you light it up or is just dim?
Circuit box PDF look's much better that should all work as it looks. do that test please with the motor drive.
I might change that capacitor for the best charging. maybe 10.000 uf 75 volts
John B
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