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Matthew Jones 11-19-2010 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pault (Post 117388)
CDA was Woodstock.

Man, I totally missed out on the Free Love.....:confused:

Matt

DoubleD 11-19-2010 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Jones (Post 117398)
Man, I totally missed out on the Free Love.....:confused:

Matt

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

:hug: :peaceflag: :cheers:

Redisnoc 11-19-2010 06:14 PM

Great to see everyone
 
First,
Glad I got to meet everyone-David Luke here/Redisnoc
Bits, thanks for your help, input and most especially your positive attitude and drive--your momentum helps a lot of people (me included)

For you Matt:

"Man, I totally missed out on the Free Love.....

Matt"
_____
~~You did~~, and that is a shame, because it will never be again--date stamping myself--Missed Woodstock, but, but got to Atlanta Pop Festival I and more....

Jeff, Josh, Eric, Matt, Dave, Luther, Chuck, The Wonderful guy with the pretty 14 year old daughter that had abilities like a 35 year old man of working knowledge (that I never heard his/her name), Vizzy, and all the names I cannot remember--it was great to be around folks that had intent and ability.

Thanks for all your help, support and energy.
Rick and John did a job didn't they.
Dave

kippered 11-19-2010 06:35 PM

My monopole is now running also :cheers:

now just to tweek it for performance...

Peter Lindemann 11-19-2010 06:54 PM

More Secrets Revealed.....
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by kippered (Post 117444)
My monopole is now running also :cheers:

now just to tweek it for performance...

Kippered,

Great to hear you have your motor kit running. The system is designed to run from a small 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery, charge a capacitor and dump that into a different 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery. Meanwhile, when it gets up to speed, a whole string of LEDs light up from the extra generator coil that is putting out about 24 volts. When you have the whole thing working, I'll tell you how to modify it so it will run itself, light the LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front one goes down.

Peter

Mark 11-19-2010 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann (Post 117446)
Kippered,

Great to hear you have your motor kit running. The system is designed to run from a small 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery, charge a capacitor and dump that into a different 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery. Meanwhile, when it gets up to speed, a whole string of LEDs light up from the extra generator coil that is putting out about 24 volts. When you have the whole thing working, I'll tell you how to modify it so it will run itself, light the LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front one goes down.

Peter

Peter some of us have had this 3 pole kit running for months now. Please give us the details on how to make a self runner. Was never told this kit was designed for a 7 amp-hour battery. Does anyone have any idea what an average motorcycle battery amp hour rating is?

Thanks, Mark

redrichie 11-19-2010 08:14 PM

can existing non-kit monopoles be reconfigured to do this as well? Will this info be released to the rest of us or is it exclusive to conf attendees
?

kippered 11-19-2010 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann (Post 117446)
Kippered,

Great to hear you have your motor kit running. The system is designed to run from a small 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery, charge a capacitor and dump that into a different 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery. Meanwhile, when it gets up to speed, a whole string of LEDs light up from the extra generator coil that is putting out about 24 volts. When you have the whole thing working, I'll tell you how to modify it so it will run itself, light the LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front one goes down.

Peter

Would love to hear the details! I have a bit of work before I get it sorted out with the 12V batt's. Currently all I have is 2 6V 12AH batteries that I could hook up in series (saved from 2 old exit signs) but am lacking the 2 batteries to dump into.

I currently have it running off my old 9.6V makita cordelss drill battery charging directly to a similar battery (no cap dump) basically like Turion, used the standard SSG drawing and just added 2 more.

I am hoping to re-energize these batteries as they havent held a proper charge for years and was the main reason for upgrading to a better drill.

Also I guess it is important to note the kit is really only a monopole trigger since the one trigger coil operates the 3 drive coils unlike the classic monopole bike wheel setup.

Exciting because I will be assisting at a NEMCA event with a review of the conference and we wanted to make sure at least one kit was working properly :thumbsup:

nvisser 11-19-2010 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pault (Post 117388)
CDA was Woodstock.

Bedini is Hendrix.

The conditions at Woodstock were crappy. CDA wasn't perfect, too. And, both promoters lost money.

Yet, we, the audience, were in the presence of brilliance. A confluence of genius the likes of which might never happen again.

Did you attend Woodstock, or, see the movie? Did you expect Hendrix to teach you how to play elementary guitar after he stepped down from the stage?

Hendrix showed us what was possible. He stretched our expectations for what was possible with that medium.

Bedini pulled out all of the stops and showed us what was possible in his medium. Bedini sculpts magnetic fields.

I think that the most significant idea that Bedini gave us was his sketch of the magnetic fields.

I *think* that he is telling us that he is not thinking about electronic circuits. I *think* that he is telling us that he sees the magnetic fields first, then arranges the electronics to achieve said fields.

Pault
I like your *thinking*

About a self runner. I think that bedini/cole bipolar circuit that triggers with a read switch could work.There they use the trigger coil as gen coil and feed the power back to battery during off time. Much like the watson machine. Then we could use the smallest rechargeable battery to get test results sooner. We don't need to pop back once a revolution but could wait till the capacitor reach 31V and pop it back much like John Bedini does on his ferris wheel, using a 32v zener and maybe a solid state relay or two transistors or scr.I am not to sure if this back popping method is the best when using the same battery.
I only arrived home today and pack my kit out an hour ago. I think I will try this circuit on it.
I would like to thank John Bedini and his team for what they brought to the table.
Also I need to thank Mathew, Bits and Dave for helping me out after my credit cards, money and drivers license got stolen at Seattle airport. Without you guys I would have been lost!!
I think we have to go sit down and re think the way we were experimenting and start all over doing it the "Non Linear" way. I am not to sure how we will do that but I am sure we will get there.
Example of non linearity was. The Watson machine having 8 coils and only seven magnets. (I wrongly thought it was to reduce cogging or drag)
And the second example was the 2 steel plates bent at different angles on the sides of the big coil like magnetic shields or something.
Oh and also the smaller neo magnet mounted scew on the inside of the huge ferrite magnets!

SeaMonkey 11-19-2010 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redisnoc (Post 117436)
First,
Glad I got to meet everyone-David Luke here/Redisnoc
...
Dave

Consider-Redisnoc

Emoclew-Welcome

Peter Lindemann 11-20-2010 04:00 AM

Two ways to do it
 
Hi Everybody,

OK, here's the deal (or at least one set of possibilities). The idea is this. Once you have the basic system recycling the electricity from the front batteries to the back batteries while running the motor, any mechanical energy produced is the major portion of the "free energy" created by the machine. The extra generator coil can then "convert" this free mechanical energy back into "new" electricity, or electricity that was not in the system before.

The way the system is wired is to take 100% of this "new" electricity and use it to light some LEDs. The voltage of that system is about twice the voltage of the batteries, or about 24 volts. So, if you light only about 12 volts worth of LEDs instead of the full amount, you now have about 12 volts worth of output to play with. This can be applied to either the input battery to offset the battery drain at the front, or added to the capacitor and dumped to the battery in the back along with the rest of the recovered energy from the coils.

Either way will give you the bias you need to run the system, light some LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front runs down.

Have fun!!!

Peter

Turion 11-20-2010 05:50 AM

Peter, the posted wiring diagram from Rick does not include the top coil in the schematic. Are you saying to use the trigger coil to fire it just like the other coils and run it to a capacitor, or use a separate circuit with just this coil and maybe a reed switch to trigger it? Or just as a generator coil with no electronics at all. Mine is running and all tuned up, and I am one happy camper right now. I am going to visit my son, the electrical engineer, this weekend, and taking my motor with me as well as a build of Matt's simple motor. I can't wait. I have several 7 amp hour batteries, so I can configure it however I need to.

Peter Lindemann 11-20-2010 06:08 AM

Top Coil
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Turion (Post 117525)
Peter, the posted wiring diagram from Rick does not include the top coil in the schematic. Are you saying to use the trigger coil to fire it just like the other coils and run it to a capacitor, or use a separate circuit with just this coil and maybe a reed switch to trigger it? Mine is running and all tuned up, and I am one happy camper right now. I am going to visit my son, the electrical engineer, this weekend, and taking my motor with me as well as a build of Matt's simple motor. I can't wait. I have several 7 amp hour batteries, so I can configure it however I need to.

Turion,

The top coil is NOT part of the motor circuit. It is NOT triggered or fed any power from the front battery. It is just a generator coil that produces pulses of electricity when the magnets on the rotor move passed.

Peter

Turion 11-20-2010 06:23 AM

That's what I figured. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks.

Ecoman11 11-20-2010 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turion (Post 117525)
Peter, the posted wiring diagram from Rick does not include the top coil in the schematic. Are you saying to use the trigger coil to fire it just like the other coils and run it to a capacitor, or use a separate circuit with just this coil and maybe a reed switch to trigger it? Or just as a generator coil with no electronics at all. Mine is running and all tuned up, and I am one happy camper right now. I am going to visit my son, the electrical engineer, this weekend, and taking my motor with me as well as a build of Matt's simple motor. I can't wait. I have several 7 amp hour batteries, so I can configure it however I need to.

If there is enough voltage across that generator coil you can easily convert it to a vibreedo coil which I've posted here. http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...eedo-coil.html

It would be interesting to see the results if anyone is willing to try.

Ecoman

nvisser 11-20-2010 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Jones (Post 117398)
Man, I totally missed out on the Free Love.....:confused:

Matt

The guy you shared your room with wasn't as cute as you thought he would be!!! LOL

John_K 11-20-2010 12:36 PM

New CDA Alternative Energy Conference - July 2011
 
For those who wanted more and for the folks that couldn't attend the conference last weekend, Rick has announced another conference in the last weekend of July 2011.

This is an event NOT to be missed. It will be even bigger and better than the last one. There will also be more surprises. I'll let you in on one of them... I'll be there this time! :dance:

Follow this link for details: Renaissance Charge July 2011 Alternative Energy Conference Keep checking back as more details are finalized.

This will be capped at 1000 people, so don't miss out. It will be bigger than Texas (or Queensland if you're Australian :) )

:cheers:
John K.

esaruoho 11-20-2010 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John_K (Post 117564)
For those who wanted more and for the folks that couldn't attend the conference last weekend, Rick has announced another conference in the last weekend of July 2011.

This is an event NOT to be missed. It will be even bigger and better than the last one. There will also be more surprises. I'll let you in on one of them... I'll be there this time! :dance:

Follow this link for details: Renaissance Charge July 2011 Alternative Energy Conference Keep checking back as more details are finalized.

hmm, seems to be at the same time as the Extraordinary Technology Conference 2011? (the only reason i noticed that was because travelling to the states is quite expensive and was hoping i could save enough to attend both conferences! :) )

Mark 11-20-2010 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann (Post 117516)
Hi Everybody,

OK, here's the deal (or at least one set of possibilities). The idea is this. Once you have the basic system recycling the electricity from the front batteries to the back batteries while running the motor, any mechanical energy produced is the major portion of the "free energy" created by the machine. The extra generator coil can then "convert" this free mechanical energy back into "new" electricity, or electricity that was not in the system before.

The way the system is wired is to take 100% of this "new" electricity and use it to light some LEDs. The voltage of that system is about twice the voltage of the batteries, or about 24 volts. So, if you light only about 12 volts worth of LEDs instead of the full amount, you now have about 12 volts worth of output to play with. This can be applied to either the input battery to offset the battery drain at the front, or added to the capacitor and dumped to the battery in the back along with the rest of the recovered energy from the coils.

Either way will give you the bias you need to run the system, light some LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front runs down.

Have fun!!!

Peter

Hello Peter

I've tried that in more than one configuration and could not get it to work. I even put my bifilar coil where the generator coil usually goes and used the other coils in parallel and in series to feed the front battery with no leds and the front battery would always run down. I tried the 2 similiar coils in series and used the generator coil as my trigger and fed that back to the primary in pulses out of phase with the bifiliar and that didn't work.

Now the one mistake I maybe making is my batteries maybe too big, I've always worked with automotive batteries.

Please instruct me with what I am doing wrong.

Thanks, Mark

Matthew Jones 11-20-2010 02:14 PM

Did you disconnect the motor completely before you back popped the primary?
You cannot generate directly to the primary battery. You must allow a cap to charge then disconnect the motor and fire the capacitor back at the primary battery.
I switch the Hot side and allow the current to flow through the ground. But, and I am getting ready to test this, I think switching both sides of the connection would probably be more beneficial.
You have got to have a bit of amperage stored up in the cap before you fire regardless.

The only thing I tried and it might work is to serialize a bridge off of the coil with the primary battery. The problem that shows up and would take pretty dynamic circiut is the fact that as the motor goes faster the triggering would have to be adjusted to accommodate the higher voltages on the collector.
I have never gotten that to work very well.

Hope that helps some. Peter may have another take on it.
Matt

Mark 11-20-2010 03:41 PM

Matt

No I have not tried to totally disconnect the motor before back popping, I assumed that firing it out of phase with the motor would work the same. Not really sure how to do that with out using a comutator.

Will have to get some smaller batteries then maybe I'll try using a half bipolar circuit (got that down to about 8ma draw) then using the other 3 coil in series with a cap and SCR to pop another battery and try rotating front to back and see if it will self sustain.

Would like to see your diagram Matt if you care to share.

Thanks, Mark

Mark 11-20-2010 03:52 PM

For anyone that was at the conference and recieved the new 3 pole kit what was the transistor you recieved in the kit. Someone stated that in the old schematic that was handed out the layout for the transistor was different. Was the kit supplied with an mpsA06 transistor or what?

pault 11-20-2010 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark (Post 117581)
For anyone that was at the conference and recieved the new 3 pole kit what was the transistor you recieved in the kit. Someone stated that in the old schematic that was handed out the layout for the transistor was different. Was the kit supplied with an mpsA06 transistor or what?

MPS 8099 (TO-92 case).

pault 11-20-2010 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann (Post 117516)
... This can be applied to either the input battery to offset the battery drain at the front ...
Peter

I have my conference 3-poler running, using 9V batteries. A fresh source battery lasts only about 2-3 hours, so the above hint is very interesting.

Thinking out loud - please correct me and please kibbitz (esp. if it will prevent me from having to scrape battery guts off of my walls) - ...

The top coil is a conventional generator.

The top coil is on when the other coils are off, so this doesn't conflict with the stated (by John, I think) law that you can't recharge the source while driving the other coils.

The top coil generates AC, so the output must be rectified before being stuffed back into a battery.

The LEDs are diodes, so I should be able to connect a LED cathode to the + side of the source battery and "trickle charge" the source.

I've never considered how a battery is conventionally trickle charged. What are the parameters? What voltage is the trickle charge? Is it supposed to match the final voltage of the battery, or higher V or lower V? What about current? How does one know when the battery is fully charged? How does one prevent over-charging?

kippered 11-20-2010 05:54 PM

All great stuff guys.

I am going to leave my kit alone until after next Friday where I am showing it to a few people and I donít want to burn out any components with my tinkering... After that it is game on to try to make this have the best COP possible!

Anyhow I was thinking of a way to cap dump into the charge battery (or a second separate charge battery) but my voltage is a little to low and never climbs above that of the drive battery. I have my core set to the closest distance to the rotor possible, so the only other variable is getting the RPM's higher.

So I tinkered very briefly with a basic voltage multiplier circuit ( Voltage multiplier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) and put about 13Vac from the generator coil into the circuit getting around 40Vdc out. I am thinking it might be possible to use this to trigger a cap dump at a similar voltage level to the radiant spikes (for me 25-30V) we see and try to charge a battery.

I am also wondering what type of RPM you guys figure you get the rotor up to... I get about 140Hz at the generator coil using the 9v battery so:

140 Hz = 140 cycles/sec

3 pulses per rotation therefore 46.6 Cycles/sec x 60 = 2800 RPM

@Pault
I am a beginner at batteries but there are 2 conventional ways to charge batteries that I know of:
- Ram a bunch of current into the battery and make it hot
- Trickle charge a battery to keep it "topped up"
- Pulse Charge a battery to condition it (yes pulse charging is widely used in the industry already, just not using Radient)

Peter Lindemann 11-20-2010 06:49 PM

Think it Through.....
 
Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

The motor kits delivered at the conference, and the predecessor designs, are all capable of indefinite operation. All of the necessary components are there. But, as with all things in this world, everything must be optimized.

First, the 9 volt batteries supplied with the kit are for demonstration purposes. They must be replaced with some small, 12 volt rechargeable batteries. 4 or 7 amp-hour gel-cells are preferred.

Second, the generator coil is designed to produce about 24 VAC at about 5,000 rpm. This final voltage (whatever it is for your model's top speed) determines how many LEDs you can light ABOVE the battery level.

Back popping the front battery is the most difficult method to get to work, although a workable method for off-setting the input was clearly explained in the Electric Motor Secrets thread and has been there for years.

Charging a cap on the back end with both the recovery from the motor coils AND the excess from the generator coil (after lighting a few LEDs) is the simplest and most reliable method.

Free running bearings, choosing the right number of LEDs based on the operational "top speed" of your system, running the system at "room temperature" so the batteries charge efficiently, etc, etc, etc,.....including everything John has been harping on for years..... are all necessary aspects of an operational success story!

Look at what John just posted in the "Electricity Watson Machine" thread. Its your own way of thinking that is stopping you.

Quit trying to build a "self-running machine" and start closely observing and working with the machine that is in front of you. Go through each system in the machine and find out it's range of activity. Chart them and take notes. Let the machine "teach you the truth" about itself and how well it embodies what "you believe" it embodies. When you find differences between "what you thought it was doing" and "what it is really doing", make adjustments.

When you are done with this process, it WILL be running itself.

We have told you EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!

Beyond this, you must learn it for yourself.

Peter

kippered 11-20-2010 07:04 PM

Well put Peter

The fun of the experiments begin, the key lies in the observation.

minoly 11-20-2010 07:26 PM

Think it Through.....
 
it's all about the spike:

"http://tinyurl.com/3pmPart1"
"http://tinyurl.com/3pmPart2"

notice the starting and ending voltage
of both primary and secondary.
skip to the end of the second vid watch the primary climb above where it started.
patrick:v-peace:

minoly 11-20-2010 07:48 PM

Think it Through.....
 
PS
don't forget, there is a timing gear kit that comes w/ all you need to cap-dump once per 15 rev's. you can build it yourself (for more), or make a lame one out of lego's and rubber-bands like we did:) . if you cap dump your spike as well, you will see the available mechanical increase. why? - impedance. :clap:

redrichie 11-20-2010 08:10 PM

awesome video. What is the Voltage/capacity of your capacitor? So in the last week we have true self running systems out in the open for everyone to see? How come the entire scientific world isn't ablaze with excitement. Isnt this a VERY big deal? Not that John hasn't been telling us this for a very long time, but....I'm speechless.


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