Cosmic Induction Generator by John Polakowski

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  #241 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2010, 04:24 PM
juju juju is offline
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:)

Hi bytes, thank you!

if the battery is charging like crazy then maybe you allready have self running!

but just for clearence... have you allready tryed without "closed loop" at the bedini charge output versus the generator coil output and compare measurements of one, when the other is onload? to see if you loose power from oneside when the other one is loaded?

how much voltage do your generator coils show without load? are you stepping down to 12V and more amperage with the transformer and going to charge battery, or your put it directly AC to the drive side, in parallel with inverter output?

i have to apologize, I went with the wrong foot... please forgive me, dont like the others to question my goals or beliefs and I made you what i dont want to myself, shame on me!

i judge you and you must be such a good person, because your intentions are very pure and you choose to share, persons like you are special!

here is a circuit that aeron shared... he says that this is the best way to close loop a system, because dont kill the dipole, this way the cap dont see the battery, but the battery see the cap... so will not charge it, but only take charge of it, so the juice system takes from the battery is only what the cap was not able to supply and if it is more power that the system needs to run, you will be drawing no more juice of your battery and you will take the "extra" energy out with a zeenier, or voltage regulator!

in my setup "uncle lenz" likes to mess around, because im using drive coils of 2 ohm in series... and the generator coils are 200ohm (hig impedeance), your winding are "one to one" transformer?

again, thank you very much for all!

hug




Quote:
Originally Posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
Not sure if I understand the question, but will try and explain. All original coils (10) are producing ouput to the charge side. So far, 2 additional coils have been added (gen coils) and been configured as described earlier. The energy these coils produce are feed into the drive side. Without the inverter on the charge battery, it charges like crazy. I went from 12.1 to 13.5 in about 10 min. I will be adding 2 more coils (Gen) to get closer to making this self running.

Hope this helps.

Bit's

Last edited by juju : 06-12-2010 at 06:06 PM.
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  #242 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 12:59 AM
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minoly minoly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
Hi John, on the transformer I am connecting to the full winding, center tap is not connected. I haven't measured the Peak spike yet. No load on the transformer is about 68.2 volts, but I need more windings (coils). As for the serialing of the coil windings, I don't think that it is transformer action (that is created by the pulse) but mearly just more turns about the core. Make sure when you serialize the winding that you always take the ending wire back to the "next" begining winding"

Bit's
When we hook up the scope to our build, we see both the transformer from radiant spike as well as the generator action. our coil is advanced 22 degrees or we do not see much of the generator action.
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  #243 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 01:12 AM
juju juju is offline
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hello

Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
Could you please refer us to the thread where you found this diagram.
The thread is the earth battery, the guys were studing a method to improve the stubblefield coil!

Earth Battery SG

hugs
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  #244 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
When we hook up the scope to our build, we see both the transformer from radiant spike as well as the generator action. our coil is advanced 22 degrees or we do not see much of the generator action.
I don't have my coils advanced. They fire at the same time the drive coils do.

Bit's
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  #245 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 02:20 AM
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clairification of feedback method

Quote:
Originally Posted by juju View Post
here is a circuit that aeron shared... he says that this is the best way to close loop a system, because dont kill the dipole, this way the cap dont see the battery, but the battery see the cap... so will not charge it, but only take charge of it, so the juice system takes from the battery is only what the cap was not able to supply and if it is more power that the system needs to run, you will be drawing no more juice of your battery and you will take the "extra" energy out with a zeenier, or voltage regulator!
I didn't claim it is the best but rather one of the keys to show how to take
output from the back and put it to the front without the front power supply
ever seeing it. "pseudo close-looped" so to speak.

It definitely works and can usually cut power consumption from the
source power supply by half, easily. There are other variations of this
CONCEPT that can be done and there are other sources of input that can
be added to the input without the battery being used to both power
something and be charged at the same time or alternatively, which the
battery doesn't like very much, under normal circumstances. Some of
the other sources of input can be from earth battery/rod set up's, etc...
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  #246 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 06:39 AM
broli broli is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broli View Post
Can someone with this motor please perform a 1 min test if you have an DMM that measures L that is. Measure inductance when magnet is farthest away, and measure inductance when magnet is at TDC. Thanks for the effort.
No one? I'm not asking much.
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  #247 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 07:04 AM
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I have got a LC meter and a loose 8 filar coil. I will do a measurement for you but keep in mind that my coil is not the same as the one from the kit as I don't no the coil size , number of turns and wire # that they use.
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  #248 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 07:11 AM
broli broli is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
I have got a LC meter and a loose 8 filar coil. I will do a measurement for you but keep in mind that my coil is not the same as the one from the kit as I don't no the coil size , number of turns and wire # that they use.
Thanks. Don't worry about that as long as you share the specs of the coil and core that is fine. It's intended for a different project and would like to see how much inductance changes when a magnet is near a core of the coil.
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  #249 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 07:32 AM
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I have to report that the inductance stays the same with or without the magnet. There is a slight change while the magnet is moving but after it has stuck to the core at tdc it goes back to it's original reading
Coil size: 60mm x 60mm
core size: 20mm pvc with wire inside
9 Strands of 24# wire
Each strand measures around 4.8 ohm
Inductance of each strand without magnet: 6.6mH
Inductance with magnet at tdc: Also 6.6mH
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  #250 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 07:57 AM
broli broli is offline
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Sorry your numbers are a bit confusing without any description. For instance 60mm x 60mm measured how exactly? And by "wire inside" do you mean steel rods used as core material?

If that's the case then that's not normal. If the magnet is even stuck to the core without any change then the core is seemingly doing nothing. Have you tried sticking a magnet on both sides too?
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  #251 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 08:58 AM
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coil length 60mm
coil diameter 60mm
core 20mm pvc filled with steel rods
The inductance will only change if you change the core size or pull it out bit by bit like an adjustable coil
A moving magnet will show changes. A magnet stuck to the core can make no difference.
I measured another coil. It is a solder bobbin filled with 24# wire , measuring 14 ohm. The inductance is 221mH and it does not change with magnets on one or both side.

Something a bit off topic: I picked up a while ago while measuring the inductance of a transformer secondary to try and calculate its resonant freq. with a certain parallel cap value was that if I shorted the primary winding, the inductance on the secondary changed a lot.
I now did the same on the 9 filar coil
As already reported one strand measures 6.8 mH
when I short another winding(strand) the inductance on the one under measurement goes down a lot to 0,27 mH
Shorting a second winding brings it down to 0.17 mH
Interesting? Maybe somebody can shed some light on this and if it can be used like that to change a coils inductance easy while in operation instead of moving the core in and out.
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  #252 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 11:00 AM
citfta citfta is offline
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Changing inductance

I'll try to answer the following.





Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
coil length 60mm
coil diameter 60mm
core 20mm pvc filled with steel rods
The inductance will only change if you change the core size or pull it out bit by bit like an adjustable coil
A moving magnet will show changes. A magnet stuck to the core can make no difference.
I measured another coil. It is a solder bobbin filled with 24# wire , measuring 14 ohm. The inductance is 221mH and it does not change with magnets on one or both side.

Something a bit off topic: I picked up a while ago while measuring the inductance of a transformer secondary to try and calculate its resonant freq. with a certain parallel cap value was that if I shorted the primary winding, the inductance on the secondary changed a lot.
I now did the same on the 9 filar coil
As already reported one strand measures 6.8 mH
when I short another winding(strand) the inductance on the one under measurement goes down a lot to 0,27 mH
Shorting a second winding brings it down to 0.17 mH
Interesting? Maybe somebody can shed some light on this and if it can be used like that to change a coils inductance easy while in operation instead of moving the core in and out.


A multi filar coil is actually the same as a transformer. If you measure the input power to a transformer when there is no load on the secondary you will see the input power is fairly low. If you connect a load on the secondary you will see the input power go up depending on how much you load the secondary. This is a normal function of a transformer caused by the change in inductance of the primary which is caused by the change in the load on the secondary.

There is a device that uses this principal to control the power through a transformer. It is called a magnetic amplifier. It is a special transformer that uses an extra winding that has a DC current flowing through it that is varied to change the inductance of the transformer. This is used to control how much power is allowed to pass though the transformer to the secondary winding. A very small current in the control winding can control a very large current in the secondary winding.


Hope this helps, Carroll
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  #253 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 02:21 PM
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Thank you Carroll
I think I saw what you described here in the Hector transverter project although I did not grasp it then.
I will go back there and have another look. It can be that they adjust that to get the output of the transformer into resonance.
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  #254 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 11:20 PM
juju juju is offline
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...

Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
I see 31 pages on that thread . Can you please give me a post number
if you click in the link you go directly to the page with the schematic! 19!

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  #255 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2010, 05:46 AM
the_mog the_mog is offline
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hi all,

there seems to be a lot of confusion regarding the coil setup of the 10 coiler,

could someone Please tell us what size is the coil: height/width and core diameter,

also what size wire is used for power / trigger windings,
if we have this and the weight we could pretty much calculate the length of each winding

this would be a great help

Thanks

K-
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  #256 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2010, 07:35 PM
juju juju is offline
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dear friend,

its the post 542 on page 19!!

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  #257 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2010, 08:47 PM
juju juju is offline
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weird stuff!!

i just have to click in the link that i gave you to go directly to the post!

keep it up
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  #258 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 11:02 PM
TeslaTech TeslaTech is offline
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Hi Bits-n-Bytes,
thanks for posting your work! thats great! I have also purchased the 10 coiler kit. Thats nice to exchange some infos about it.
Charging right now a bank with 16 x 100 Ah @ 12V Batteries = 1600Ah 12V.
I've bought the batteries when they're were 5 years old. The seller said he can get 500 Euro at the junkyard, so they are pretty sulfated.

Still conditioning the batteries, made 4 banks with 4 batts. Charging one bank under 24hrs toward 15 Volts.

I'm using also a selfmade regulated dc transformer with a bridge and big cap (6000 microFarads @ 600Volts) to power the 10 coiler. i can adjust the voltage from 0 - 300 Volts.

To use a strand isolated from the 10 coiler circuit, i had the same idea, just
charging a 55Ah batt. with just only one wire from the eight strands. The additional battery is completly isolated from the 10 coiler. I can measure over 45 Volts on this one wire. Just use a diode and rectified the charge to the batt.

What makes me thinking is what rick in the 10 coiler instructions stated: qoute" We never placed batteries of lesser voltage on the output charging side than that on the input primary side. "
Does anybody have an idea what does it exactly means ?



Thanks

Sebastian
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  #259 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeslaTech View Post
Hi Bits-n-Bytes,
thanks for posting your work! thats great! I have also purchased the 10 coiler kit. Thats nice to exchange some infos about it.
Charging right now a bank with 16 x 100 Ah @ 12V Batteries = 1600Ah 12V.
I've bought the batteries when they're were 5 years old. The seller said he can get 500 Euro at the junkyard, so they are pretty sulfated.

Still conditioning the batteries, made 4 banks with 4 batts. Charging one bank under 24hrs toward 15 Volts.

I'm using also a selfmade regulated dc transformer with a bridge and big cap (6000 microFarads @ 600Volts) to power the 10 coiler. i can adjust the voltage from 0 - 300 Volts.

To use a strand isolated from the 10 coiler circuit, i had the same idea, just
charging a 55Ah batt. with just only one wire from the eight strands. The additional battery is completly isolated from the 10 coiler. I can measure over 45 Volts on this one wire. Just use a diode and rectified the charge to the batt.

What makes me thinking is what rick in the 10 coiler instructions stated: qoute" We never placed batteries of lesser voltage on the output charging side than that on the input primary side. "
Does anybody have an idea what does it exactly means ?



Thanks

Sebastian
Thanks Sebastian, great to hear your success. I have hooked all different variations even with 36 volts on the input and only 12 on the output. I am going to be speaking with Rick here shortly so I'll ask him or John why they put this statement in. I have more in the development works and will be able to display shortly. (Sneak preview is I will be using the TS, my own inverter, and a thrid device which will throw this 10 coiler into OU). Tall order I know. More to come.

Bit's

Last edited by Bit's-n-Bytes : 06-15-2010 at 11:21 PM.
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  #260 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 01:08 AM
Joit Joit is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeslaTech View Post
What makes me thinking is what rick in the 10 coiler instructions stated: qoute" We never placed batteries of lesser voltage on the output charging side than that on the input primary side. "
Does anybody have an idea what does it exactly means ?



Thanks

Sebastian
Hi,
well, that they never charged with ie 12Vinput 6 Volt Batteries?
or with 24V in 12 V at the output.
At last i compare it with charging a 9V Block with 12V.
There is still a rest of Voltage, what runs trough the Circuit, and its maybe not healthy for the Batterie, when it gets such strong and fast hits.
At the other Side, Voltage will break down when it hits resistance, what is more as the Input.
So, when you have the Spikes with ie 60V or more, it will break down inside the Batterie to maybe 8V, but its actually allways the Amount from the Status of the Batterie.
Another thing i found out, is, actually you can charge every Cells, even Button cells, just need a very very small Amount of current, because they cant handle a lot, eiter will go hot, or burn something inside.
It only depends at the amount or the Unit of Energy, what they get each Cycle.
Bigger Batteries maybe can handle more of it, so it should not hurt them fast.
What is the Rule for charging Batteries? About 20% from theyr Capacity? 1/5 typically, but not over 1/3.
Even where there is may higher current from the Alternator.
At 40Ah it is a Amount of 6Ah permanent charge.
I stay at max 10%, mostly far lesser from each Batterie and i think am at the save Side.
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  #261 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 11:25 AM
robbie47 robbie47 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeslaTech View Post
What makes me thinking is what rick in the 10 coiler instructions stated: qoute" We never placed batteries of lesser voltage on the output charging side than that on the input primary side. "
Does anybody have an idea what does it exactly means ?

Sebastian
The source battery is connected to a charging battery via a series connection of a secondary winding of the coil and a fly-back diode . If the diode threshold is e.g. 0.7-1.0 Volt, there will be a DC charging current from the source battery via the secondary winding and the diode to the charging battery if the voltage difference between the source and the charging battery is >0.7 -1.0 Volt.

Last edited by robbie47 : 06-16-2010 at 11:27 AM.
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  #262 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 07:42 PM
TeslaTech TeslaTech is offline
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Hi Robbie47,

this is what my intuition the whole time said! The flyback blocks only in one direction of course (to prevent that current flows back from the charging side back into the circuitry). There is a difference in potential and the curren/voltage flows always from a higher state to a lower state.
Now the whole stuff makes sense!!!

The other thing what makes me think is, the original 10 coiler from Bedini, had to magnets with northpoles facing each other and makes a “pinpoint beam” like Bedini said. But in the purchased one there are no option for this….
This circumstances could also reduce the effiency of the machine.



Greets

Sebastian
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  #263 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeslaTech View Post
Hi Robbie47,

this is what my intuition the whole time said! The flyback blocks only in one direction of course (to prevent that current flows back from the charging side back into the circuitry). There is a difference in potential and the curren/voltage flows always from a higher state to a lower state.
Now the whole stuff makes sense!!!

The other thing what makes me think is, the original 10 coiler from Bedini, had to magnets with northpoles facing each other and makes a “pinpoint beam” like Bedini said. But in the purchased one there are no option for this….
This circumstances could also reduce the effiency of the machine.



Greets

Sebastian
I just talked to Rick, and he said that if the source side (drive side) is higher than the charge side, that you run the risk of blowing the tranny's. The charge load ALWAYS has to be connected to a load so if the charge side had a lower voltage than the drive, it could be seen as having no load connected. He also said the best charging occurs with the larger source.

Thanks

Bit's
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  #264 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 09:01 PM
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hmmm. Thats funny. Ive run with 130vdc input to 24vdc charging bank....

Must have got lucky.....
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  #265 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2010, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
I just talked to Rick, and he said that if the source side (drive side) is higher than the charge side, that you run the risk of blowing the tranny's. The charge load ALWAYS has to be connected to a load so if the charge side had a lower voltage than the drive, it could be seen as having no load connected. He also said the best charging occurs with the larger source.
The always part do deserve being bolded . Maybe it is less severe with charge side having having impedance than drive side. I guess with coil that many and having low impedance the resulting output current would easily exceed the transistor limit with lower impedance output.

Would the input current reduce or increase with lower impedance output?
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  #266 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2010, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
I just talked to Rick, and he said that if the source side (drive side) is higher than the charge side, that you run the risk of blowing the tranny's.
Then Rick is wrong,
that is,
if the proper components were selected.


Only improper switching could cause failure.

Any, and I mean ANY confluence of the primary
to the secondary effect would mean certain failure.

You CAN run 120 in, and 12.0 out, period.

You should be able to run ANY input.

But then again, I've been away a while.
I was following the discovery that scaler magnetics
DO INDEED follow aluminum paths after all !!!



How are people doing with this "Kit" ?

In any event,
Ren is simplistic proof.

Last edited by WeThePeople : 06-17-2010 at 08:20 AM.
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  #267 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2010, 09:14 AM
robbie47 robbie47 is offline
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Originally Posted by WeThePeople View Post
You CAN run 120 in, and 12.0 out, period.
It's my understanding below figure is valid here.
As posted earlier if Uin > (Uout + diode threshold) and the switch is open, Uout will be charged until voltages of both batteries have leveled.

But maybe I am wrong about the actual basic circuit being used here.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:22 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Hi,
I have run and still run my 3 coil machine with 36 volts on the input and several big batteries in parallel 12 volts on the output. Nothing gets hot, the transistors and everything else /except the potentiometer!/ stay cold. 3 Amps in. Makes one amp per coil.
BUT: There might be a negative effect on smaller batteries. If you don't have BIG batts on the output, the plates will suffer from the "slamming" they get from the high voltage. This can go beyond 700 volts.
On the 10 coiler the safe way might indeed be to have the same voltages in and out.
TeslaTech you are talking about EUROS- does that mean you are in Europe and have received the Friedrich kit? Then I'd like to know how high the shipping costs were and if everything arrived well. How was your communication with RF?

I'm in Germany and the distances and shipping costs are a bit daunting to me.

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...d=127677391 6

Here's an image of my machine running seven LED spotlights from a single recovery coil.the coil is in the 14 h position on the machine and not connected to the rest of the circuitry.
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Last edited by albertMunich : 06-17-2010 at 11:28 AM.
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  #269 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2010, 12:03 PM
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ren ren is offline
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Originally Posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
I just talked to Rick, and he said that if the source side (drive side) is higher than the charge side, that you run the risk of blowing the tranny's. The charge load ALWAYS has to be connected to a load so if the charge side had a lower voltage than the drive, it could be seen as having no load connected. He also said the best charging occurs with the larger source.

Thanks

Bit's
Sorry Bits, I just re read your post here and it seems to contradict itself in a couple of places. Read it through again. It would seem to me that you are saying a load must be connected to the charging side? And then that the BEST charging occurs with a higher source? But it's more risky?

My humble opinion? The higher the source the more current/voltage difference is pushed, and thus the faster the battery rises in terminal voltage. If you have taken the time to study the best methods of charging and done the load tests (like I know some of you have) you know this doesn't mean much at all, and that, like John says, the battery has it's own time frame in which it will charge best. When I ran 130v input the 24v bank was at 33v almost instantly. But this isn't good charging at all, infact the opposite IMO. Now if the bank was much larger in capacity (not 12a/H) it may have taken longer, but still may not have been a good charge, or may have done damage over an extended period or repeated cycles.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with more than 125%-150% on the input compared to the output, when charging batteries.

Albert, lights look great, fair amount of juice there on that genny coil. )

Check Truth In Heart CREDIT CARD ORDERING CENTER, I think you will find it is only $200 for international shipping. That shouldn't change, whether your in Mexico or the other side of the world. Don't quote me, but that's what I understand.

Regards
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:50 PM
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Bit's-n-Bytes Bit's-n-Bytes is offline
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Originally Posted by ren View Post
Sorry Bits, I just re read your post here and it seems to contradict itself in a couple of places. Read it through again. It would seem to me that you are saying a load must be connected to the charging side? Regards
Hi Ren, I may have not correctly worded this, but here's the deal (and I have even proven it to myself) if you do not have a load (battery or other device) to absorb the radiant energy produced by the spikes, that energy has to go somewhere, hence the reason for the neon bulbs. That said, too small of a load can only take so much energy and the rest is seeking ways to get out. I found that components work on smoke, "you let the smoke out" and they don't work no more. Also the point that was made earlier about the spikes slamming a smaller battery on the charge side my not be all that healthy for it. I know you and many others including myself are always pushing the Envelope so really for me, there is no right or wrong answer here. Let the Experimentations continue.

Bit's

PS @Albert, great job!

Last edited by Bit's-n-Bytes : 06-17-2010 at 12:53 PM.
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