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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2010, 01:59 AM
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John Bedini Group Comments

Bedini SG
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
For anyone who has not been involved with the Bedini SG group that was recently closed, I compiled the messages from John Bedini as he was posting them. I only have this from The end of Feb until a few days ago and it has a lot of valuable information that he has never really discussed openly before.

This link is the PDF: John Bedini SG yahoo group comments , it is 91 pages

It might take a few hours to go through this, but if you want to learn about the SG, it is best to hear straight from John.
I have re-enabled this document since it rightfully belongs in the public
domain as it ALREADY is in the public domain since every message is from
the Bedini SG yahoo group.

John Bedini SG here it is, 91 pages pdf.

I removed this document quickly after accusations came up that I copied
the posts from a private group, which actually never happened. Any
messages that were originally in a private group and were placed into this
document is because John placed them into the public Bedini SG group
himself. Therefore, I took them from the public group and placed it into
this document.

There is a lot of good information in this document that I would recommend
that anyone read this document that is interested in the SG.
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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2010, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeThePeople View Post
As you know from dropping a round magnet down
inside an aluminum tube, the eddy currents exist,
it will fall slowly even though you consider it non magnetic.

It's the whole Paramagnetic thing.

Your right about aluminium, but when the metal is moving with the magnet no eddy currents are produced. Relative to each other, they are not moving.

Cheers,

Steve
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:51 PM
smw1998a smw1998a is offline
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OTG Group Pulse Generator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark View Post
Hello Lee

Your improvement on the SSG sounds interesting. I would like to take a look at it, are you going to post it?
Hi Mark and All,
I have started a new thread HERE so as not to distract from this subject. There is a link to a paper describing the circuit.

Regards Lee.
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Old 03-07-2010, 01:23 AM
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deleted post per request of member (not Admin).

Last edited by ewizard : 03-14-2010 at 06:14 PM.
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2010, 10:56 PM
Schpankme Schpankme is offline
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Kromrey Converter

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Originally Posted by dambit View Post
Classic!
As the master of the shaft'; how is your Kromrey Converter coming' ?

It's been about 10 months since you gave an update on your Kromrey; does it charge batteries better then your Solid State Charger?

MK2 Solid State Charger
YouTube - SJohnM81's Channel

1:26 "You don't need the wheel anymore, but people still like to look at it!" - SJohnM81

- Schpankme

The phaonmneal pweor of teh hmuan mnid.
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:26 PM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Hello to everyone out there!
I am following very closely the news about the 10 coil Bedini machine from Rick Friedrich.
I have made several Bedinis myself and my largest one has a 20 pound rotor and three five-strand coils of 1 mm wire. coil impedances are between 0.8 and 1.2 ohms.
14 transistors...
I would like to point out several things and give you some thoughts here.

I like the multicoil machines because they can deliver a substantial charge to substantial batteries. Yet the basic circuit is quite simple.

My own machines ALL work at 24 or 36 Volts and only come to life at these higher voltages. (On the Input).- On the output I like to stay at 12 volts putting several batteries in parallel. About 120 aH at the moment.

On the biggest machine the "radiant spikes" go over the top of the scope screen at 25 V/div. setting.

Last week I FRIED the machine completely by NOT connecting the output (well deserved you idiot I thought...). the transistors EXPLODED like firecrackers before the wheel had made a half turn. Bang bang bang....
Now if this happens with an 80 transistor machine you will creep to a corner and cry. If the transistors are SOLDERED IN you might not even be able to use the pcbs anymore.
The ole Neon lamp does not work as a safety catch anymore on the bigger multicoils.
Now I understand what risk John B is taking with this big machine of his having a 1600 aH Battery in the back room. this will fry the building probably if he makes a mistake.
I think he said that he smoked the machine once this way.
Now i am rebuilding my machine with MJL transistors and I throw out the BD 243 Cs that I used before.
The transistors will be screwed in (blocks) and not soldered anymore.
I think Rick is doing pioneering work by putting his kit to the market. I only hope that he will not be swamped by lawsuits from people who will either claim the machine is not powering their house or blow themselves up or shock themselves and so on. This is not a toy. If your output battery pack is not strong enough it will probably fly apart....
I have a question for the more experienced gurus here: On my BD 243 transistors- the machine is basically a replica of the Ron Pugh Machine described in Patrick Kellys free energy book-I use a set of 470 ohm base resistors. Do you have a ballpark figure for the fixed base resistor on a MJL 21194 transistor machine? This draws lots of current in the base and trigger circuit and I do not think a wire wound pot will work for the trigger control.
I think the fixed resistor will have to be at least 1/2 watt power. And a pot would have to be 10 watts or more. that correct?
The machine as it was before drew between 2 and 5 amps on a 36 volt supply. I charged not on the one pulse per magnet sweet spot but with 2 or 4 pulses per magnet. On the BD 243 C s the rotor quickly overspeeded and I had to use a speedbrake (piece of aluminum as an eddy current brake) next to the rotor to bring the speed down and keep the machine at "my" sweet spot for charging. This does not seem to be a problem on the MJLS.
Hope to be able to post some pics soon!

Albert
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 06:41 AM
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Hi Albert.

Ive pushed the multifilar circuit to over 120v input. It performs remarkably well considering.

YouTube - 120v Bedini monopole

Ive placed a capacitor over the output, its saved me a few times from popping circuit components

Regards
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 07:19 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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There are other questions I have about the Rick Friedrich kit, and only a few have been answered by Rick himself, whom I contacted by E-mail. I don't want to use up too much of his time since he's certainly very busy...and I think these questions might be interesting to you here so I will repeat them:

1. We all agree that the Bedini machine is essentially a conductor or pump for the radiant energy. There is a lot of dissense about what this energy may be. Somewhere else on this forum there's a thread about the radiant spike and what it might be, with scope shots. My own scope shots look basically the same as the ones on this thread. To me it seems clear that the radiant energy effect is an RF phenomenon. Whether it is a longitudinal wave form that of course would not show or read on our scopes and meters or whether its an "ether gas" I cannot say. Even after years of experimenting with it.- The important point to remember here is that IF we have to deal with some form of RF here the machine has to obey the laws - or at least some of them- of RF construction and design. This is why so many of us FAIL to make these machines work properly-Everything becomes important in RF construction as the details may be effective BARRIERS for the radiant energy. So we might wind up with a machine that to our measuring equipment might work well but in reality does not deliver the energy or waveform that is supposed to charge and condition our batteries.

2. The machines I have made produce all a lot of RF noise on the radio- on longwave bands. You hear the transistors switching, and the typical chirps of PWM can be heard when you turn the pot and the machine goes thru the resonance points. On the bigger machines this might be a problem if you live in an urban area and bring down radio or other communications all around your shop.If you use filters you will kill the radiant. Catch 22.

3. So where are the definite guidelines for the WIRING of such a machine- do we need the copper tubing or thick copper wires to collect the radiant? On Ricks prototype nothing of the kind was seen. In RF, the wires to the machine and from the machine are extremely important, look at Bedinis big machine he uses the thickest available wire to keep the impedance as low as possible. Should the boards be directly next to the coils? do we need WAVEGUIDES just like in a microwave oven?
Other issues with the prototype: If you look at the CAD drawing on Ricks site, the coil holders are mounted on the top end of the coils. I pointed out to Rick that in the prototype the coil holders are right next to the rotor. This would be a perfect speedbrake if the coil holders are metal.
I know that VIBRATION is an issue in the multicoil machine and I guess Rick had the coils vibrating heavily when he mounted the coils at the top end and left the end next to the rotor essentially unsupported. The noise from ten vibrating coils would be deafening.
Trigger: The most important detail of them all.We are left in the dark about the trigger system on Johns 10 coil machine. the 12 volt lamp goes on when he turns on the sense switch but the machine does not turn yet. On all of my own designs the lamp will only light up when the rotor turns and the trigger current starts to flow. Perhaps John is using some kind of optical or hall switching? Or does the machine resonate when he turns it on? will the MJL transistors turn on fully when you use only one trigger thread off the coils? How do you tune the machine if there is no pot and the resistors are soldered in? How do you set it to different input voltages?
Aaron-you say that you have seen John run his big machine many times to charge the huge batteries he has recovered from the surplus. How many charge-discharge cycles did it take before the battery banks responded to the radiant on this large scale system? Probably hundreds of cycles...
I think this might be shortened by using one of these powerful machines but only if its properly tuned. So for us replicators and experimenters out here the cat bites its own tail- how to condition the batteries if we cant be sure the machine creates the proper signal?
So to avoid wrong expectations and disappointments we need to address these issues before we tackle to make a large Bedini machine. My call goes out to you people who are close to the source- Peter, Aaron, Rick, to give us some more information. If its already out there it is so dispersed in the various forums that it will take a year to dig it all out.Perhaps Ricks machine might serve as a model to help us clear these issues. I will order one and try to get it working IF I can get answers to the pertinent questions first- and I will have to get my own smaller machines to run well first. This is a step by step process and a learning curve but we simply do not have the time to go to all the pitfalls and dead ends ourselves and reinvent the wheel if someone has been there before.
Ricks machine is great in some of its design points- I like the solid shafts, the possibility to mount several rotor discs, the wedge shaped magnets that might not fly off so easily, the modular design and so on. A perfect base for a lot of experimentation. So if any of you has it on his bench lets hear what you are getting out of it and share the experiences please.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 07:30 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Hi Ren-
wow the video blew my mind - I had thought the MJLs might hold up to this kind of "abuse" but would not try it because my rotor would jump out the window if I did. Even at 1000 rpm its impressive since it is much bigger and I have some balance issues.Will the charge batts hold up to this kind of slamming?

As you say a lot of high wattage resistance is necessary on the trigger here. what is your resistor value? I think I'll discard my printed circuit boards and go to a hardwired approach as you did on the final build. Wonderful work.
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:07 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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I ran upstairs and shot some pix. Here is Machine 3:
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:11 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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The wire is probably the equivalent of 19 AWG- litzed in 5 strands and spun with a fine silk covering. Made to order. So you see I have some very low impedance coils. Might be wrong?!
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:12 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Since the wires are pretty thick there are not too many turns on each coil...
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:19 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Here you see the windings. This machine ran well on the BD 243 Cs but since I blew it I decided to put in the MJLs and I can't seem to get it up and running again....the base resistors are all wrong.On the 243s I could get this to run in solid state mode / 36 Volts in 12 volts out. Charged my 100 AH batts in 12 hours. But the 243 Cs are a bit too fragile for my tastes and my stupidity...
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:23 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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The backstage wiring is a mess right now and I am working on it. As you can see I put the transistors on blocks to be able to change them without ruining the boards by solderin them in and out.
I will finish this properly once I get the right values...

All of this brings us back to the issue of Ricks machine. Image all this multiplied many times and you have the complexity of his machine. I won't go any bigger until this baby is running on my workbench again.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 01:10 AM
Plazma Plazma is offline
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Greetings Albert . . .

You seem to have quite a knack in writing out good explanations and hitting on the many questions I have asked myself as I contemplate my future endeavors with a 10-coiler. And, congratulations on all of your hard work - that puts you way ahead of where I'm at reference multi-coiler energizers of all types.

At this writing 10-coiler materials are trickling in - I'm still 2 pkgs away from having the order in hand so sometime early April I'll start to build. Also, I am looking at a solar array design to install on the roof of my office/shop. This is a grid-tie system and may offer some interesting possibilities in the future as the inverter has several open inputs for energy sources besides PhotoVoltaic(PV).

In one of your posts you raised the issue of RF. Since my lab is in an-all metal building complete with Ufer ground matrix, I hope NOT to generate so much RF that local communications are affected. However, Rick F. was most explicit in his verbal warnings to me about the RF that the machinery would generate especially if the 10-coiler (monopole) were used to drive the 10-energizer coil/generator assembly that can be added to and coupled to the monople's drive shaft. I concluded that nearly all of my digital lab toys (scopes, meters, analyzers, PCs, etc) powered or not would/could be seriously affected so I chose not to attempt the generator assembly at this time until I got adequate experience with the 10-coiler, per se. As pointed out, tuning this monster by playing 20-factorial questions with fixed resistors is most likely enough of an exhausting, taxing process.

As you've suggested, I'll be posting as things develop.

All the Best,

Plazma
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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 01:28 AM
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Plazma,

I am looking forward to seeing how it goes for you. Please keep us posted.
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Old 04-04-2010, 09:25 AM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Thank you Plazma for your nice words and great news.
I'm looking forward to what you have to say about the quality on Ricks machine.
I finally got my 3 coiler to run again- this time with the right transistors. I had a nasty problem- at first NOTHING worked and I started pulling my hair out. I have made some nice cooling fins for the MJL transistors using an aluminium profile. Since I want to be able to switch transistors without soldering, I used the fin as the attachment point for the collector wire. Well, I had to find out the hard way that these aluminum profiles are anodized in some way and DON't conduct electricity. I had to sand the anodizing layer off and now everything is fine again with the 470 ohm base resistors and a wire wound potentiometer.
The transistor makes ALL the difference. The BD 243 C transistor is definitely NOT the transistor to use. Even on a Bedini fan / one transistor setup, I have a different animal now with the MJL setup. When I unplug the charge battery on the simple 12 volt fan, the spikes go to 700 Volts! With the 243 C it was 120 volts maximum.
The big machine can now charge the battery bank two times faster, running on 36 volts and 3 A. Power consumption with the transformer included is a mere 45 watts. AND I begin to see the effect of conditioning as the charging times and the impedance of the battery bank goes down. Before I could not get below 30-40 mill-ohms, now I'm at 18 m-ohms. All this just by changing the transistor, and the wheel does not go into these ridiculous overspeeds anymore.
Sometimes just one bloody component makes a difference between a piece of junk and a useful machine.....
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schpankme View Post
As the master of the shaft'; how is your Kromrey Converter coming' ?

It's been about 10 months since you gave an update on your Kromrey; does it charge batteries better then your Solid State Charger?

MK2 Solid State Charger
YouTube - SJohnM81's Channel

1:26 "You don't need the wheel anymore, but people still like to look at it!" - SJohnM81

- Schpankme

The phaonmneal pweor of teh hmuan mnid.
Hi mate,

Sorry bout the late reply, only just saw this post.

I can't believe it's been 10 months. Seems like only two or three. In all honesty I havn't touched my Kromrey converter in a while. It's all ready to go and is sitting neatly in one of my cupboards, I just have to get the coils rewound again and fit a new bearing. I'm still not sure on the best coil config, but the only one I have seen any results from was the very first one I tried. Each coil was 3-filar with 800 turns. They flew apart after only a little while and for whatever reason I never tried that config again. Now that I have better coil cores I will try it again.

So in answer to your question, no it doesn't charge better that my solid state charger. Not yet anyway

That particular charger in the vid has been the most tested unit I have built. My Grandad used it almost non-stop for the past year and restored at least 15 batteries from the dump. All around the 80 to 100AH rating. It's not the fastest charger around, but it definitly works.

Cheers,

Steve
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2010, 03:45 PM
Plazma Plazma is offline
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Status Update . . .

Hi Albert,

Congratulations on finding out how great an insulator that Al2O3 is - -

Ref your battery bank impedance, that's a very significant drop. Did you say what size/type of batteries being charged you were using?

As a data/reference point, John Bedini suggested that the internal impedance of a fully submerged lead/acid battery was 0.0023 Ohms (and, I suspect this number might be from a new and fully conditioned battery, too - that number posted on the Tesla Switch thread). Quite a challenge to accurately measure such a value given the hassels with contact resistances and other similar issues. Still, something to shoot for . . .

As for the 10-coiler, more packages of parts have arrived so I will start to build next week. I intend to go very slowly and methodically with progress reports posted phase by phase. We'll see how it goes - very excited about the 'potential' (pun intended).

Cheers,

Plazma



Quote:
Originally Posted by albertMunich View Post
. . . The big machine can now charge the battery bank two times faster, running on 36 volts and 3 A. Power consumption with the transformer included is a mere 45 watts. AND I begin to see the effect of conditioning as the charging times and the impedance of the battery bank goes down. Before I could not get below 30-40 mill-ohms, now I'm at 18 m-ohms. All this just by changing the transistor, and the wheel does not go into these ridiculous overspeeds anymore.
Sometimes just one bloody component makes a difference between a piece of junk and a useful machine.....
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertMunich View Post
Since the wires are pretty thick there are not too many turns on each coil...

albertMunich,

Your coils are beautiful! You mentioned they were special order, can you tell me where you got them made, and how much they cost?

Regards...
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 09:12 PM
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Hey Buddy,

From past chats with Albert I seem to remember him winding his own. I also noted his excellent craftsman ship.

Bedini replication in Germany

Ahhh....the good ole days

Regards
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Old 04-08-2010, 06:03 PM
albertMunich albertMunich is offline
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Hi friends,

the coils were made by me, the litzed wire was obtained from a company by an associate of mine. I don't know where he had it made.
My 3 coil machine is performing very well with the MJL transistors now. Just had it running back and forth for the whole afternoon, switched between the banks twice. Sum voltage dropped from 50. 62 to 49. 60 Volts. I run the machine on 24 to 36 volts now.
The solid state mode needs more investigation, any Bedini machine can be made to run in solid state mode without the wheel. Just play with the potentiometer or use some unpolarized capacitors in the trigger line.

Even my very first Bedini machine works like a charm now. ( The Bike wheel variant with two transistors.) Runs on 24 volts and can also be run solid state.
I can only repeat the transistors make all the difference.
To all experimenters out there: How long does it take until a battery bank responds to the conditioning? How many charge-discharge cycles? I am at 10-12 cycles on my 100 aH liquid filled battery bank now. This is so damn tedious...
I also found it better to use a battery bank on the driving side- my power supply seems incapable to supply the energy for the radiant spikes although it is fully capable to supply the voltage. So now I use the primary bank- suitably charged with a "normal" charger on the driving side. tomorrow I will look into the shop of the local car repair guy and see if he has some old batteries that might be recoverable. I have the battery tester John B uses and it indicates the battery impedance. Always a good way to look for a batt that will still be in a working condition. If there is a defective cell its no good.

Last edited by albertMunich : 04-08-2010 at 06:14 PM.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2010, 07:43 PM
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nvisser nvisser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertMunich View Post
Hi friends,
The solid state mode needs more investigation, any Bedini machine can be made to run in solid state mode without the wheel. Just play with the potentiometer or use some unpolarized capacitors in the trigger line.
Albert
If you connect the bottom wire of the trigger coil to positive instead of negative , it turns solid state and you can run it with a low value base resistor to supply some current to it specially if you drive it from a solar array that can supply some current. JB said to use 1A per winding.
I build my first 9 wire coil. 1 Winding for trigger and connected it as described above (See patent:11_592_633_Circuits_and_related_methods_)
I also build a nice PC board for the electronics. I will post a photo tomorrow.
The idea is to built 10 of these over time and in the meantime run them solid state till I can get hold of a nice wheel one day to build the 10 coiler SSG.
My coils look a bit big compared to the ones on JB's photo. I also only had about 24# wire. I get it from the degauss coils of old crt monitors. The coils measure between 6 and 8 Ohms. Is that to much? For now this wire must do as I cannot afford to buy thicker wire.
I drive it from a pc power supply between the 12v and minus 12V. (24V)
I use 470 Ohm resistors on each base and chose the one base resistor that goes to all of them so that it does not draw to much current. It draws about 1.5A from the 24V supply.And It does impressive charging!
The only problem I see with a solid state multi coiler is that if you want to supply it with a lot of current the one base transistor has to be of high wattage.
The transistors I used are 2SC3886A's. They are dirt cheap here by us and can handle high voltage. It is a tv line driver transistor. Between the collector and emitter of the transistors are diodes instead of neon for protection in case the output goes open. When that happens one or more of this protection diodes will go short and put the pc power supply in current limit mode and so protect the transistors
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2010, 06:00 AM
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nvisser nvisser is offline
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My first 10 coiler coil and pc board

My first 10 coiler coil and pc board

Last edited by nvisser : 06-19-2010 at 12:05 PM.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2010, 10:58 PM
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theremart theremart is offline
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RE: 10 coiler..

Quote:
Originally Posted by nvisser View Post
My first 10 coiler coil and pc board
Ok, where are the other 2 transistors, I count only 8 !



Nice clean setup hope you don't have to use the quick change of the transistors. Are you going to use a wheel, or going solid state?

Mart
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2010, 09:36 AM
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This is the first 8 filar coil with trigger of the 10 coiler. Hence only 8 transistors.
The other 9 coils will be build over time. At this stage I run it solid state . See post before the photo. In time I plan to built a wheel as a friend of mine just bought a lathe and offered to make one out of super wood. Not sure yet what diameter to use.
The transistors are only screwed into connector blocks and are very easy to change, but I found that the protection diode between collector and emitter blows when the output goes open circuit and so protect the transistor.
Anybody that need the pcb layout , just give me a shout and I will mail it.
I cannot post it here as it is in pcb express.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2010, 05:13 AM
Plazma Plazma is offline
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First Impressions . . .

@All . . .

I opened up 2 large boxes just received and found they contained what appears to be all of the frame, rotor, and coil mounting components plus magnets. There was also a very nice set of assembly drawings. Here are some observations:

Packing - all parts were well packed and protected . . .

Rotor - absolutely beautifully machined out of aluminum - and VERY heavy - a magnet holder and fly wheel in one . . . holds 20 magnets as mounted North end facing out inside of a (Delrin?) plastic holder that must be press fit into the rotor. Even the dove-tail like magnet holder cavities exhibit mirror-like finished surfaces - WOW!

Many of the black plastic parts look like cast Delrin (just a guess - stuff is expensive, but tough and strong) . . .

Part number sequences as marked on the individual parts seem to match the drawings . . .

2 Boxes of 5 coils per box - the welding rod cores had slipped some during shipment - not an overly big concern but one must pay very close attention to the bobbin core alignment as the welding rod cores come into play in establishing the the rotor-core gap as the core is clamped by a collar in the upper part of the coil/bobbin mounting assembly (i.e., the core is quite a bit longer than the coil bobbin). I'll post more on this as I get deeper into assembly, feeler gauges and micrometers at hand.

So far, the number of plastic parts of a particular (coil assembly) type match the number of coils/bobbins (10).

Major parts of the frame assembly use pins that interconnect one part to another. This is a very good practice to ensure fit as well as distribute stress so as to prevent unnecessary over-torquing of bolts and screws.

Well, enough first impressions for this post - I'll continue as I get deeper into the build.

Cheers,

Plazma
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2010, 10:48 AM
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theremart theremart is offline
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RE: Update

Thanks for the update Plazma! Looking forward to hear how it goes.

Mart
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2010, 04:45 PM
juju juju is offline
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battery swapper

i dont know why mr. bedini if so expert in this area, dont include a battery swapper circuit system, so it can detect when the source battery is running out, and exchange it automatically for a completed charged battery, and also use the same system to the extra charged battery that will power a load (light or device).

its that not simple to do and apply it to this kit?

king regards
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2010, 01:00 AM
Schpankme Schpankme is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plazma View Post
I opened up 2 large boxes just received and found they contained what appears to be all of the frame, rotor, and coil mounting components plus magnets. There was also a very nice set of assembly drawings. Here are some observations: Packing, Rotor, Many black plastic parts look like cast Delrin and 2-Boxes of 5 coils per box

So far, the number of plastic parts of a particular (coil assembly) type match the number of coils/bobbins (10).

Major parts of the frame assembly use pins that interconnect one part to another. This is a very good practice to ensure fit as well as distribute stress so as to prevent unnecessary over-torquing of bolts and screws.

Well, enough first impressions for this post - I'll continue as I get deeper into the build.

Here's a picture of John Bedini, 10-pole picture for inspiration.

Schpankme

“You won't realize the distance you've walked until you take a look around and realize how far you've been.”
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