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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #1711  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:15 PM
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Thanks! Hopefully some of those little screws and nuts I've pulled out of hard drives will fit.
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  #1712  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:36 AM
Dennisrhodes Dennisrhodes is offline
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hi

I dont know where you are, but have you seen these bus board strips?

1/8th " is fine as far as thickness goes if you use your flattened copper tube idea. I assume you will cut the tube length ways and open it out and flatten it? Then you can cut it into strips.

Good on you for having a go at this.
Dennis
Here is my old hack job of the same. It works fine.
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  #1713  
Old 05-27-2018, 05:24 AM
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Hey Dennis,

Thanks. I appreciate you clueing me in to the existence of bus board strips and for your circuit photo. I hadn't tried to look for circuit photos online so yours is the only one I've seen apart from the one in the handbook. It gives me more clues about how to do it.

I'm in Costa Rica, out in the boonies a few hours from the city - where whatever they have is.

Even there the selection is scant - no ceramic magnets, nor the type of transistors recommended, nor 1/16" welding rods nor the spool size needed for the coil, etc. so the bus board strips may or may not be available.
This time around I'll just slice a copper tube up the way you're thinking. I also appreciate you letting me know the thickness shouldn't be a problem.

One question about fastening the transistors to the heat sink. I got the right sized screws out of an old boombox today, but only 3 have nuts. Can I just secure the others with pieces of the same plastic tubes they were screwed into or would the plastic be likely to melt against the heat sink? If so, would cutting some metal washers to go between the plastic "nuts" and the heat sink make much difference?

I'm actually a little uncertain about the need for a heat sink in general. The version of the handbook I have explains how to design the SG in the attraction mode and calls for a heat sink. On the other hand, in the video of Peter assembling the kit he says that a heat sink isn't necessary since the attraction mode is being used, and it runs cool.
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  #1714  
Old 05-27-2018, 06:23 AM
Dennisrhodes Dennisrhodes is offline
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on the back of each transistor there should be a bare metal face. the transistor should be isolated electrically from the heat sink otherwise the heat sink will be a shock hazard.I used some thin square plastic transistor insulator washers and white transistor thermal grease for good heat transfer. The grease goes on the back of the tranny then the insulating pad against the heat sink surface. But I agree with Peter, they should not get hot anyway. here's a pic from Google as an example...see the grease squeezing out the sides?
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  #1715  
Old 05-27-2018, 06:24 PM
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Thanks, that all makes sense. I have the grease and thermal insulators for the transistor heat sink interface.

My question is about the other side of the heat sink, where each screw securing a transistor is normally held in place by a metal nut, which I assume heats up along with the sink.

I don't have enough nuts for all my screws (taken out of context that phrase could get me in trouble) so if instead of metal nuts I use a plastic equivalent on 4 screws, will that work, or will they overheat and melt or fail somehow?

I took Aaron's good advice of getting a 1k ohm pot and 100 ohm resistors to replace the 470 ohm'ers so I can do some tuning. Last night though, I finally started reading some older material on the SG and saw comments saying the pot needs to be wire wound as the standard carbon track pots often fry within an hour or so. Mine is probably carbon track as I didn't specify wire wound (if they even have them). Is wire wound essential for SG's running in the attraction mode too? If so, is it worth putting my current one in at all?

In your photo (just like the one of John's circuit) a bus board strip is on top of the transistors. Is it attached with some sort of hot glue/epoxy type stuff between the second and third ones from the left (if not, how is it held in place)? And though I realize they're encased in plastic, is there any risk of shorting the transistors by having it right up against them?
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  #1716  
Old 05-29-2018, 03:56 PM
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Copper strip on top of the transistors

Good day Dennis,

Perhaps I had too many questions in my last email for you to answer. No worries, I've resolved most of them but still have the last one for you, if you have the time.

It was this - In your photo (just like the one of John's circuit) a bus board strip is on top of the transistors. Is it attached to them?

If so, how?

I realize they're encased in plastic, but don't want to do anything that might risk shorting them, or add more insulation to increase their heat retention.

Thanks.
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  #1717  
Old 05-30-2018, 12:20 AM
Dennisrhodes Dennisrhodes is offline
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Hi, no risk of that as long as the strip is not touching the transistor legs or pins. You can glue it onto the transistors with whatever kind of glue you have.
There is another way to do it altogether, which is to use the same welding rods as a bus bar, but you dont have any do you.

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  #1718  
Old 05-30-2018, 01:56 AM
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Thanks for the clarification about working with transistors.

Nice to know I can use a welding rod (copper coated at least) that way. I appreciate the picture. I didn't get any welding rods here because they were all too thick to use as core material.

I'll use sections of 1 cm copper tubing (1/8" turned out to be too small) I cut in half and hammered flat.
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  #1719  
Old 06-11-2018, 03:00 AM
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Finally finished it

I finally got it done. Thanks to those of you who offered advice. I was only able to run it for a short while today because a magnet flew off as it was speeding up since I only had them taped on.

I'd read not to glue them on in the beginning to allow for making final adjustments. I have one magnet every other spoke for a total of 18. Is the final adjusting a matter of trying out more or fewer magnets, or just adjusting their positioning or what?

Also, I didn't have small batteries, so I'm using light truck batteries. Is there any problem with using them instead of smaller ones?
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  #1720  
Old 06-12-2018, 06:42 AM
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final tuning

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I finally got it done. Thanks to those of you who offered advice. I was only able to run it for a short while today because a magnet flew off as it was speeding up since I only had them taped on.

I'd read not to glue them on in the beginning to allow for making final adjustments. I have one magnet every other spoke for a total of 18. Is the final adjusting a matter of trying out more or fewer magnets, or just adjusting their positioning or what?

Also, I didn't have small batteries, so I'm using light truck batteries. Is there any problem with using them instead of smaller ones?
The bigger the batteries the better.

For "final adjusting" - I'd just get used to it running in your current setup and get a feel for it. You can tune the resistor going to the base. You want the fastest speed for the minimum current draw. You can put a pot-meter in series with a fixed resistor like 100 ohms and a couple k ohm variable resistor.
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  #1721  
Old 06-12-2018, 04:16 PM
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... because a magnet flew off as it was speeding up since I only had them taped on.
This can be a serious problem. I plan to use two layers of duct tape with a layer in between of the green plastic shown in this picture of a pallet of bricks:
https://www.shutterstock.com/image-p...ting-109398953

It is very strong and is to be found lying around building sites and merchants. I'll give the surfaces to be glued with Araldite a good sanding first.

Don't ever stand in the plane of the rotating disc which should be up against a wall.
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  #1722  
Old 06-14-2018, 05:38 AM
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Aaron,

That's great to hear about the bigger batteries. I want to use this to rejuvenate vehicle batteries (I just bought Peter's video yesterday from your site - using a friend's credit card in case you see the purchase).

I put in a 1k ohm pot and 100 ohm base resistors. Unfortunately, it was not a wire wound pot (it was probably standard carbon track) and burned out after about 10 minutes of use. I let it keep running a few minutes after the pot burned out, but it was at a slower speed. I then thought since it was originally adding resistance to limit the current through the emitter-base junction, having only the 100 ohm resistors there was probably letting a lot more current through risking damage to the transistors, so I stopped it.

I'm not sure I'll be able to buy a wire wound pot here in CR. If not, what should I do instead?

I wasn't able to tune with the pot as I haven't been able to get the tach to work right (it throws out widely varying numbers, some ridiculously high). So all I was able to use the pot for was to slow down or speed up the wheel.

Wrtner,

I couldn't buy strapping tape locally so I just used 2" scotch tape. I think the rubber liner that usually fits inside a bike rim (to keep the inner tube from being scratched by the rim) would be a good addition though. Or, half of a bike inner tube (the half without the valve) or even the whole tube minus the valve. All of those are strong, flexible single pieces with no ends to come undone and because they would be stretched over the magnets, they'd hold everything tightly in place.
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  #1723  
Old 06-14-2018, 11:46 PM
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Wirewound pot specs

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Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
You can put a pot-meter in series with a fixed resistor like 100 ohms and a couple k ohm variable resistor.
Since the 1k pot I was using burned out so fast I want to replace it with a wirewound one. I haven't found a source here, so I'll order from US. Due to the shipping costs and time I want to make sure I get one with the right specs.

What wattage is best?
Since I've seen both listed, do you recommend one of 1k or 2k ohm's?
Any brands that are better or worse for this use?
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  #1724  
Old 06-15-2018, 02:27 AM
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misc

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Originally Posted by 2SeeMore View Post
Aaron,

That's great to hear about the bigger batteries. I want to use this to rejuvenate vehicle batteries (I just bought Peter's video yesterday from your site - using a friend's credit card in case you see the purchase).

I put in a 1k ohm pot and 100 ohm base resistors. Unfortunately, it was not a wire wound pot (it was probably standard carbon track) and burned out after about 10 minutes of use. I let it keep running a few minutes after the pot burned out, but it was at a slower speed. I then thought since it was originally adding resistance to limit the current through the emitter-base junction, having only the 100 ohm resistors there was probably letting a lot more current through risking damage to the transistors, so I stopped it.

I'm not sure I'll be able to buy a wire wound pot here in CR. If not, what should I do instead?

I wasn't able to tune with the pot as I haven't been able to get the tach to work right (it throws out widely varying numbers, some ridiculously high). So all I was able to use the pot for was to slow down or speed up the wheel.

Wrtner,

I couldn't buy strapping tape locally so I just used 2" scotch tape. I think the rubber liner that usually fits inside a bike rim (to keep the inner tube from being scratched by the rim) would be a good addition though. Or, half of a bike inner tube (the half without the valve) or even the whole tube minus the valve. All of those are strong, flexible single pieces with no ends to come undone and because they would be stretched over the magnets, they'd hold everything tightly in place.
Saw the magnet flying post - if you do use tape, at least use strapping tape - the kind with the embedded string. Like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SIN=B001NBR7BU

LOL, ok , just noticed strapping tape comment.

With big batteries, also use large cables and other connectors.

For my pot-meters, I use Bourne brand - I personally like the 20 turn ones so it is very precise. You could do 2k ohm. Not sure of the wattage rating right off.

You can put a bulb in series - 25ma bulb like a flashlight bulb or something. So trigger wire> 2k ohm potmeter > 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor > bulb > gate of transistor.
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  #1725  
Old 06-15-2018, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
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With big batteries, also use large cables and other connectors.

For my pot-meters, I use Bourne brand - I personally like the 20 turn ones so it is very precise. You could do 2k ohm. Not sure of the wattage rating right off.

You can put a bulb in series - 25ma bulb like a flashlight bulb or something. So trigger wire> 2k ohm potmeter > 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor > bulb > gate of transistor.
I'm using 12 gauge stranded wire. Should I use bigger? Is stranded better or single strand?

The only connectors I have are the alligator clips to the batteries. I soldered everything else. Do the size of the clips make a difference?

I'll get a small bulb and add it to the circuit. As a novice all I can tell is that it will add a bit more resistance, but I suspect there's more to it. What it's purpose?

The 100 ohm resistors I have in are 1 watt. Should I change to 1/2 watt?

I finally found a place with wirewound pots here, but...the smallest is 5k ohms, .2 watts and 150 volts. Will that work?
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:13 AM
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This can be a serious problem. I plan to use two layers of duct tape with a layer in between of the green plastic shown in this picture of a pallet of bricks:
https://www.shutterstock.com/image-p...ting-109398953

It is very strong and is to be found lying around building sites and merchants. I'll give the surfaces to be glued with Araldite a good sanding first.

Don't ever stand in the plane of the rotating disc which should be up against a wall.
I didn't really respond to your comment very well so I wanted to revisit it. Your idea seems pretty bulletproof. The reason I went off on bike inner tubes and rim liners is that here in Costa Rica, with the heat and humidity things like tape or anything with plastic in it tend to breakdown, come unglued, etc. quicker than in colder climates. Rubber dries out here too, but bike inner tubes last a lot longer than duct tape for instance (which dries out and starts crumbling eventually) and being one continuous piece without any joints to break down gives them a big edge.
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  #1727  
Old 06-15-2018, 05:29 AM
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tuning the sg

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Originally Posted by 2SeeMore View Post
I'm using 12 gauge stranded wire. Should I use bigger? Is stranded better or single strand?

The only connectors I have are the alligator clips to the batteries. I soldered everything else. Do the size of the clips make a difference?

I'll get a small bulb and add it to the circuit. As a novice all I can tell is that it will add a bit more resistance, but I suspect there's more to it. What it's purpose?

The 100 ohm resistors I have in are 1 watt. Should I change to 1/2 watt?

I finally found a place with wirewound pots here, but...the smallest is 5k ohms, .2 watts and 150 volts. Will that work?
Do not use any alligator clips at all. Make sure you have proper terminals connected to the battery.

1 watt 100 ohm resistor is fine.

Bulb gives you a visual indicator of current there. Best to get a feel for it - tune it with the bulb and see what the bulb does.
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  #1728  
Old 06-15-2018, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
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Do not use any alligator clips at all. Make sure you have proper terminals connected to the battery.

1 watt 100 ohm resistor is fine.

Bulb gives you a visual indicator of current there. Best to get a feel for it - tune it with the bulb and see what the bulb does.
Should I stick with the 12 gauge wire or go bigger?
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  #1729  
Old 06-15-2018, 06:59 PM
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batts

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Should I stick with the 12 gauge wire or go bigger?
What are the specs on your big batteries? Sorry if you already mentioned.
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  #1730  
Old 06-15-2018, 09:29 PM
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Voltage of the 25 ma bulb

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You can put a bulb in series - 25ma bulb like a flashlight bulb or something.
What voltage should they be?
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  #1731  
Old 06-16-2018, 04:05 AM
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What are the specs on your big batteries? Sorry if you already mentioned.
I'm not sure what specs to mention, but here's the current voltage on them, and the manufacturers stated specs.

I have 2 with pop tops and 2 sealed for now (I can get as many as I want from a couple local parts stores, though I have to pay a core charge for the ones I decide to keep).

The pop tops
Batt. 1. voltage 10.20.
AH not listed, instead says CR 120 minutes.
CCA 570

Batt. 2. voltage 12.49 (was at 12.46 before I got in a few min's of charging with the SG).
Reserve 55 minutes
CCA 525.

Sealed
Batt. 3. voltage 12.46. Reserve 80 min. CCA 460

Batt. 4 voltage 12.14. Reserve 90 min., AH 65, CCA 550.
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  #1732  
Old 06-16-2018, 05:48 PM
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bulb and batts

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Originally Posted by 2SeeMore View Post
I'm not sure what specs to mention, but here's the current voltage on them, and the manufacturers stated specs.

I have 2 with pop tops and 2 sealed for now (I can get as many as I want from a couple local parts stores, though I have to pay a core charge for the ones I decide to keep).

The pop tops
Batt. 1. voltage 10.20.
AH not listed, instead says CR 120 minutes.
CCA 570

Batt. 2. voltage 12.49 (was at 12.46 before I got in a few min's of charging with the SG).
Reserve 55 minutes
CCA 525.

Sealed
Batt. 3. voltage 12.46. Reserve 80 min. CCA 460

Batt. 4 voltage 12.14. Reserve 90 min., AH 65, CCA 550.
12vdc for the bulb.

You're using starter batteries - deep cycles are preferable but starter batts can be used. Never discharge the starter batts below 12 volts.

With starters, they don't have a true amp hour rating, but can be guesstimated. If the cca is 500, divide by 10 for 50 and you have a ballpark 50 amp hour rating. So 50 divide by 20 hours = so 2.5 amps is the preferable draw to get the full capacity out of the battery (if it was a deep cycle).

You will never get that from a starter battery because you can't discharge it below 12 volts without damaging them so you will only get a part of the capacity. Again, don't discharge the starter batteries below 12 volts.

If they're flooded cell batteries, they need to be charged to 15.1 to 15.3 volts and for the third time just so there is no question about it, don't discharge the starter batteries below 12 volts.

You can look at a basic wire size vs amp chart - the 12 awg is enough for 20 amps (for chassis, power transmission, etc.? - doesn't say but it is ballpark anyway). If you limit your draw to 2.5 amps within a 20 hour rated discharge then the wire is rated for 8 times more current than you need, which is good. It is more than just about current carrying capability. On all the output, you want bigger wire than you think you need so as to not introduce any impedance that can kill the radiant output to the charging batteries.

Wire Size and Amp Ratings

https://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

By the way, your coil needs to be big enough or with enough power windings to give a big enough output kick to push the flooded cell batts to 15.1-15.3. If they're old used batts you're dealing with then you will probably see those voltages no matter what because the sulfation will force the voltage up. Then the voltage drops as you desulfate it I'd recommend both presentations here: Battery Secrets & Battery Rejuvenation by Peter Lindemann.
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  #1733  
Old 06-17-2018, 08:50 PM
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So much important information exactly at the right time for me, thanks!

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You're using starter batteries...
They’re a lot easier to get here, and one of my goals with the SG is to use it to start a business rejuvenating them.

Quote:
With starters, they don't have a true amp hour rating, but can be guesstimated. If the cca is 500, divide by 10 for 50 and you have a ballpark 50 amp hour rating. So 50 divide by 20 hours = so 2.5 amps is the preferable draw to get the full capacity out of the battery (if it was a deep cycle).
Thanks for telling me how to figure approximate AH for starters. Apart from deep cycle batt's, I'm assuming C20 is the best discharge rate for starters too.

Quote:
If they're flooded cell batteries, they need to be charged to 15.1 to 15.3 volts and for the third time just so there is no question about it, don't discharge the starter batteries below 12 volts.
I really appreciate you hammering the point home. I was going to follow the discharge rate Peter laid out in the video, which would have been a very bad idea.

Quote:
[/B][/B]By the way, your coil needs to be big enough or with enough power windings to give a big enough output kick to push the flooded cell batts to 15.1-15.3. If they're old used batts you're dealing with then you will probably see those voltages no matter what because the sulfation will force the voltage up. Then the voltage drops as you desulfate it I'd recommend both presentations here: Battery Secrets & Battery Rejuvenation by Peter Lindemann.
I hadn’t yet considered modifying anything, but it makes sense that the radiant spikes will go up if the coil is bigger, and that that may be necessary to charge bigger batteries - though I assume additional protective measures have to be incorporated and larger capacity components used, etc.

“Big enough” sounds like increasing the coil size by lengthening the wires. Is “power windings” another way of saying the same thing, or something else? I imagine thicker wire would draw more battery current and be a bad idea. If my existing setup has a hard time getting starter batteries to reach 15.1-15.3, I’ll make another coil.

I did order the Battery Rejuvenation video a few days ago and it’s a huge help, but your clarification that the discharge rates mentioned in it don’t apply to starter batteries almost needs to be included. Though It was about rejuvenating batteries with the chargers and not the SG, I assume the SG was "Charger Model 1" and is a good alternative - especially since the chargers are no longer available.

The model I've built only charges with radiant energy rather than the regauged(?) energy that comes out of the capacitor (or charge batteries in series after the first one). Are starter batteries ready to be used in vehicles after being charged with only radiant energy, or do they need the conditioned current that’s gone through a capacitor or another battery first?
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:54 PM
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Thanks for telling me how to figure approximate AH for starters. Apart from deep cycle batt's, I'm assuming C20 is the best discharge rate for starters too.

I really appreciate you hammering the point home. I was going to follow the discharge rate Peter laid out in the video, which would have been a very bad idea.

I hadn’t yet considered modifying anything, but it makes sense that the radiant spikes will go up if the coil is bigger, and that that may be necessary to charge bigger batteries - though I assume additional protective measures have to be incorporated and larger capacity components used, etc.

“Big enough” sounds like increasing the coil size by lengthening the wires. Is “power windings” another way of saying the same thing, or something else? I imagine thicker wire would draw more battery current and be a bad idea. If my existing setup has a hard time getting starter batteries to reach 15.1-15.3, I’ll make another coil.

I did order the Battery Rejuvenation video a few days ago and it’s a huge help, but your clarification that the discharge rates mentioned in it don’t apply to starter batteries almost needs to be included. Though It was about rejuvenating batteries with the chargers and not the SG, I assume the SG was "Charger Model 1" and is a good alternative - especially since the chargers are no longer available.

The model I've built only charges with radiant energy rather than the regauged(?) energy that comes out of the capacitor (or charge batteries in series after the first one). Are starter batteries ready to be used in vehicles after being charged with only radiant energy, or do they need the conditioned current that’s gone through a capacitor or another battery first?
20 hour discharge is how to get full capacity from deep cycles, 10 hour discharge you get about 90% of the capacity and 5 hour discharge, you get about 80% of the capacity. This doesn't apply to starters - dividing the cca by 10 so you get about 10% of that as amp hours is just a very flimsy ballpark. However, I would stick to the 20 hour discharge you come up with for a starter battery from full charge down to 12 volts.

Peter's recommendation is a good recommendation, but he is talking about deep cycle batteries. Those can be brought down to 10.5 with no problems since they have much thicker plates than starter batts.

If you have one power winding at 130 feet long of 18 awg and that is connected to one transistor - that is one power winding. On the same coil form (bobbin) - if you wind two wires together at the same time and each are the same size and length and the 2nd is connected to a second transistor, that is 2 power windings. Many people build these with 7-8 power windings and 1 trigger - all wires same length and wound together on the same core - good idea to twist them all together before winding.

If you have a coil with 1 power winding and 1 trigger, it will not be able to push a battery as strong as 2 power windings and 1 trigger and so forth. Each winding gives you a stronger magnetic field and therefore a stronger inductive spike to push the battery.

The rejuvenation/battery secrets video's main intended purpose applied to the chargers we sold, but it applies to the radiant spikes as well. First commercial charger we offered was a radiant spike charger - it was exactly based on the SG. After were all cap dumps or linear current chargers.

The cap discharge is more advanced but not that difficult. I'd experiment with the radiant spikes first on the SG to learn more about how it works, then look into charging caps and discharging caps.
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  #1735  
Old 06-18-2018, 02:46 AM
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Many people build these with 7-8 power windings and 1 trigger - all wires same length and wound together on the same core - good idea to twist them all together before winding.

The rejuvenation/battery secrets video's main intended purpose applied to the chargers we sold, but it applies to the radiant spikes as well. First commercial charger we offered was a radiant spike charger - it was exactly based on the SG. After were all cap dumps or linear current chargers.

The cap discharge is more advanced but not that difficult. I'd experiment with the radiant spikes first on the SG to learn more about how it works, then look into charging caps and discharging caps.
Thanks for explaining what power windings are. Mine has 7 twisted together as described.

It sounds like your answer to whether batteries charged only with radiant spikes are ready for use in vehicles afterwards is yes and that the radiant spike charging process doesn't produce batteries weaker than or inferior to those charged by caps.

If not please correct me as my idea for now is to both learn from the SG as is without doing any more mods - as you're suggesting, and to sell the successfully rejuvenated starter batteries as being ready to use in vehicles.
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:00 AM
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The reason I was asking about whether batteries charged with radiant spikes are ready to go was because I read somewhere that you can't use a battery charged with radiant spikes to be your run battery with the SG, so it made it sound like they're lacking some final step or something.
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:18 PM
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Recharging the run battery

I mentioned having read that you can't use the charge battery as a run battery if it was charged with radiant energy. No one has confirmed if that's correct, but if so, if I don't want to use a conventional charger to recharge my run battery, how should I recharge it, or another battery that will take its place?
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:45 AM
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spike vs cap dump

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SeeMore View Post
Thanks for explaining what power windings are. Mine has 7 twisted together as described.

It sounds like your answer to whether batteries charged only with radiant spikes are ready for use in vehicles afterwards is yes and that the radiant spike charging process doesn't produce batteries weaker than or inferior to those charged by caps.

If not please correct me as my idea for now is to both learn from the SG as is without doing any more mods - as you're suggesting, and to sell the successfully rejuvenated starter batteries as being ready to use in vehicles.
Batteries that are charged and conditioned over time with the spikes sometimes cannot be charged with normal hot current chargers or even cap dump. They're not weaker, but the type of energy is different than hot current, which has different effects.

That is one of the reasons the commercial ones went to cap dump immediately after is because it was desirable that they are still compatible with normal chargers.

If you want to start selling rejuvenated batteries to others, it is a good idea to get to the cap dump method and experiment with that.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
Batteries that are charged and conditioned over time with the spikes sometimes cannot be charged with normal hot current chargers or even cap dump. They're not weaker, but the type of energy is different than hot current, which has different effects.

That is one of the reasons the commercial ones went to cap dump immediately after is because it was desirable that they are still compatible with normal chargers.

If you want to start selling rejuvenated batteries to others, it is a good idea to get to the cap dump method and experiment with that.
I didn't see the obvious reason. It makes complete sense.

I also read somewhere that there's a way to set up multiple charge batteries and that the ones that come aftert the first one receive current that's been conditioned by it (rather than receiving the spikes), and thus will work as run batteries (and if so, with regular chargers/alternators too).
Is that, or some variation of it, correct?
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:48 PM
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Hey Dennis,

I don't know if you're still checking in on this thread. If so, I sent you a private message a couple weeks ago - basically to see if you've ever made a capacitor discharge.

I think I figured out the answer to the question I sent you, but I have a few others. If you read this and are up for offering some more help, please reply to the PM.
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