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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc... |
* NEW * BEDINI RPX BOOK & DVD SET: BEDINI RPX
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#1681
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I have a question that's been bugging me for the last few days. One of the things that I find interesting about the sg motor is how the input power reduces when it is loaded, which is opposite to the conventional motor behaviour. Having watched Electric Motors Secrets I deducted that it was because there was no back-emf or at least much lower than usual. But if I use a reed switch to trigger the transistor instead of the trigger coil then that effect is lost and the input current increases under load. I would like to know what is the difference in these 2 ways of triggering that creates so different results.
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#1682
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#1683
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Does it have to do with duty cycle? The reed switch has a slower response and hence at lower speeds (like under load) it gives a higher duty cycle which translates to higher amp draw from the primary. But with the trigger coil the exact opposite happens meaning lower duty cycle and lower consumption. Does this make any sense? If so would it make a difference if I replaced the reed with a hall effect sensor? I'll check it out myself once the ones I ordered arrive.
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#1684
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Yes exactly, although a reed switch has a sharper cut off than a transistor provided they don't arc too much.
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#1685
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Disconnect the charging battery
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#1686
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Bedini SSG or Cap Pulser ?
Can anyone tell me does the Cap Pulser circuit Rejuvenate batteries like the SSG ?
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#1687
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Filling the core of the spool
The beginners handbook says to fill the core of the spool with sections of 1/16" R45 welding rod. Here in Costa Rica, I've been unable to locate 1/16" rods. Locally they only carry 3/16" rods and I'm pretty sure they're not R45. Would they be a suitable substitute? If not, I noticed Aaron's recent video about Paul Babcock using steel shot as a core material. That's not available here as such, but small magnetic bicycle bearings are essentially the same thing and I can get them locally. Would those work?
Thanks, Jonathan
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#1688
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core material
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The bicycle bearings will be bigger and they will probably retain magnetism more, so no, they are not essentially the same thing. If you get a few, you can test them. Get a few and put them on a neo magnet for a while. Remove them and see if the balls stick together. If they do, then no, they are not the same. |
#1689
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Thanks Aaron.
The bicycle bearings I’ve found are 3/16” in diameter (.187”), which is just under 2x the diameter of the #7 buckshot (.100”). Apart from the magnet test - which I’ll do tomorrow - given that the ball bearings and rods are the same diameter, would you recommend one over the other? (I’m assuming that being “shorter” and having less magnetizable mass, the bearings will keep a magnetic field for less time than the rods).
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#1690
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bearings
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#1691
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I really appreciate this mini-course. I'm clearer about the role of the core filler.
Given that the longer rods create a stronger magnetic field than separate bearings, what about using 1/16” diameter iron wire (available here in rolls, as barbed wire or plastic coated metal fan cage wire)? On the possible downside, unlike welding rods, the wire won’t have copper coating (R45). Does that coating speed up the discharge rate? If not, what advantage does it provide? Wire’s also not going to be as straight, so I may not be able to get as strong of a magnetic field (the density of the core will drop if fewer pieces fit in due to bends). Wire’s also quick to rust. Is rust a disadvantage? I can certainly eliminate it if I spray some enamel on the wire like you did with the bearings. Another alternative I wanted to ask about is iron filings/ribbons. In one of Dr. Lindemann's videos he used iron filings (and epoxy) in the core - which I began saving after that. They're now rusted, but I have them. I can also get the thin (much less than 1/16”) spiral shavings that come off metal lathes. They could be more or less straightened out, cut to length and packed into the core. Would any of these options be better than the bearings?
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#1692
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I forgot to add this to my last message... If any of those are better options than the bearings, are they also better than the 3/16" welding rods?
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#1693
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Magnet spacing
Hi Aaron,
You mention that the (1" wide) magnets should be spaced around the rim 3" apart. None of the rim circumferences are multiples of 4 though (a 20" rim for instance has a circumference of 62.83" - theoretically allowing for 15.71 1" wide magnets with 3" between their nearest borders), so I'll either have to space the magnets a little closer together (using 16 in this case) or a little further apart (if I went with 15). Any advice about this? A preference for one or the other? Also, I got the sense that the size of the rim isn't so important and picked up a 17" rim as it seemed better balanced. But...most comments in the book mention larger rims. Should I use a larger one?
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#1694
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magnet spacing
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#1695
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R45 coated rods vs iron wire
Thanks.
Based on your comments, I think the answer to my other question is to go with the 1/16" iron wire in the core instead of the 3/16" ball bearings. I'll spray the wire with a little enamel beforehand to add a dielectric layer and slow down rust (it's humid here). What's the advantage of the R45 welding rod coating (the copper) over regular 1/16" iron wire?
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#1696
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copper
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#1697
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I thought the copper had some special benefit that I was missing out on. Now I feel good about the steel bicycle spokes I bought today.
I also got a plastic plumbing pipe to serve as the core for my spool. It's a bit thick, so I'm thinking of using my tablesaw (in an unconventional way) to thin it down a bit so the spokes are as close as possible to the wire. Can you believe it, no more questions for the moment! Thanks again for the help up to this point.
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#1698
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removable core
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#1699
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I definitely want to do that as I'd like to try different core materials. What I'm picturing though is probably not "right", as it could even damage the coil.
I'm imagining removing the core from inside the tightly wound coil to swap it out for another core. Since the coil is tightly wound though I think it will either keep it's shape, or contract a teeny bit when the core is removed. If I'm wrong about that, this idea may be valid, but if it is too tight of a fit, there'd be no room to easily shove another core in and doing so might mess up the coil. I could try to reduce the friction on the new core by spraying some silicone, or putting some vaseline or wax on it, but I doubt that's the idea. The other thing I can imagine is making a thin sleeve (a sm. cylindrical plastic bottle that either fits as is, or needs to be slit and adjusted then taped shut) to slide my core into which would allow me to easily remove it later. But I don't think that's the idea either, so please clue me in.
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#1700
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removable cores
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#1701
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Thanks. That makes more sense to use the rigid material as the support for the coil.
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#1702
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Circuit
I've been moving slower than planned, but I'm getting there.
The base is done, I'll finish gluing the magnets on today or tomorrow, the coil core is in and I'll soon be cutting the wires and making the coil. Then, though I know it's easy, I haven't ever made a circuit so I'm a bit anxious about it. Looking at the photo of John's machine, I'm thinking of cutting a flat plastic lid or similar to attach the copper strips to - that the majority of the non-transistor parts are soldered too. Copper strips are not available locally, though I could probably get them if it's important, but I'm thinking of cutting open a copper tube, flattening it out and super gluing or hot gluing it to the plastic backing. Will that work? If so, is it better that the copper strips be thick (the walls of the tube are an 1/8" or so thick), or should I try to thin them out (I'd probably use a grinder and/or sander)?
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#1703
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Wire length
I have a 150' measuring tape. With some help, I'm planning on using it to measure the wire. Due to slack in the tape or wire, my wires may come out a few inches off. Is there any special harmonics or something about 130'? If my wires come out 129 1/2' or 131' will it make any difference?
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#1704
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#1705
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Thanks. Being able to clarify what is and isn't important in advance is definitely a pleasure.
Other than soldering issues, the thickness won't slow down the current moving through the copper right? I appreciate the clue about solderability. I'll cut a test piece and try soldering to it. If it doesn't work well I'll sand/grind it down until it does.
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#1706
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circuit component layout
I have a couple questions about the circuit shown in the photo of John’s machine.
Is the copper strip with the resistors on it just hanging in the air in front of the transistors supported only by all the wires connected to it, or is it touching the transistors or even attached to them (glued perhaps)? In terms of copying the circuit in the photo of John's SG, any suggestions/tips about the order/manner in which to attach the different components?
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#1707
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post image
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#1708
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It's the image from page 62 of the beginner's handbook. I was unable to complete the upload (the window freezes on me after uploading it from my computer. I'm using the Brave browser, which may be the issue).
Having had more time to think about it, I probably answered my first question, which put in another way was whether the copper strip can touch the transisitors without causing damage. I suspect it can given that the transistors are insulated. If this is correct, I imagine I may even be able to glue the copper strip to the transistors. Please let me know if that's correct. My other question of whether you have advice about the best way to assemble this circuit remains (e.g. attach the transistors to the heatsink first, then x, y, z). I've watched most of the video of Peter assembling the kit, and noticed that he adds an additional resistor (10w 12 ohm) to the circuit. Should I do that too? He also says since the instructions are now for constructing the SG in the attraction mode, a heatsink is no longer necessary. This is surely a minor detail, but should I put one in just in case or just make the whole backing piece for the circuit out of plastic (or thin plywood?)?
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#1709
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Physical details of constructing the circuit
This will be the first circuit I've ever soldered together so I have beginner's questions. Some I asked in my last post in case anyone would like to answer them, but I have another one at the moment.
I'm using the photo of John's circuit as my guide (it's attached to my last post), and I can't tell how the transistors are attached to the heatsink. Can anyone clue me in on this?
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#1710
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