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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

* NEW * BEDINI RPX BOOK & DVD SET: BEDINI RPX

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  #1561  
Old 06-03-2011, 09:43 AM
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salman144 salman144 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
I would if it was mine. Links work for me from a diff computer even. last try - this is a link to his folder:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/B...ion/Dave%20Sw/
otherwise go to the files section then experimenters files then Dave Sw.

Patrick
All right Got it...Thanx
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  #1562  
Old 06-03-2011, 12:41 PM
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salman144 salman144 is offline
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Update

Update:

My 90Ahr battery just charged up from 10.5V to 12.7V in two days.
During the charging input current was 600mA and output was 300mA as
measured by the meter.

Now i am gonna convert this system to self runner just like the School boy
version.
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.......!!




Regards,
Salman.
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  #1563  
Old 06-03-2011, 09:30 PM
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minoly minoly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salman144 View Post
Update:

My 90Ahr battery just charged up from 10.5V to 12.7V in two days.
During the charging input current was 600mA and output was 300mA as
measured by the meter.

Now i am gonna convert this system to self runner just like the School boy
version.
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.......!!




Regards,
Salman.
I recomend cycling that battery 30 + times, document how long it holds it's load each time.
Keep us posted

Patrick
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  #1564  
Old 06-06-2011, 01:12 PM
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Why is it that inverting the trigger coil connections does not works. Circuit did not draw any current from the input.
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  #1565  
Old 06-06-2011, 10:28 PM
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Why do more magnets on a rotor draw less current ?

I was experimenting this evening, i had a rotor disc with magnets attached and a bifilar drive coil using the Bedini circuit to repel the magnets.

With 8 magnets the rotor was drawing around 300 mA.

I doubled the magnets to 16 and the rotor was drawing around 200 mA.

I would have thought that more magnets meant more 'on' time thus drawing more current ?

Is it because more magnets results in faster RPM so each pulse is then shorter ?

If that's the case then what's the critical threshold of the tradeoff between additional magnets (and the resulting additional rotor mass) and decreasing current draw ?

Unfortunately i don't have enough of these magnets to experiment further.


Any advice greatly appreciated,

Gary.
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  #1566  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:36 PM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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On my SSG more magnets gave a lower RPM, torque seemed to be the same although I have not measured it. It is as if the circuit only wants to run at a particular number of pulses per second.
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  #1567  
Old 06-06-2011, 11:46 PM
mbrownn mbrownn is offline
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The duration of the pulse is not altered by the number of magnets however; the speed the magnet passes the coil can have an effect. If slow enough you may get two or three pulses per magnet pass.

This results in slower speed higher current draw to some extent.

It could be that your magnet spacing was a little too wide in the first instance.
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  #1568  
Old 06-07-2011, 12:55 AM
qvision qvision is offline
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BTW this isn't a full SSG, i don't have the diode connecting to a charging battery, this may account for differences between mine and yours.

I think the duration of the pulse is altered by the number of magnets.

When i double the number of magnets, i am getting moee 'push' and therefore higher RPM.

Higher RPM means each magnet spends less time passing the drive coil, which in turn means a shorter pulse.

Shorter pulses = less current draw.
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  #1569  
Old 06-07-2011, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qvision View Post
BTW this isn't a full SSG, i don't have the diode connecting to a charging battery, this may account for differences between mine and yours.

I think the duration of the pulse is altered by the number of magnets.

When i double the number of magnets, i am getting moee 'push' and therefore higher RPM.

Higher RPM means each magnet spends less time passing the drive coil, which in turn means a shorter pulse.

Shorter pulses = less current draw.
When you doubled the magnets you're getting more mpm (magnets per minute) and also double the amount of pulses (assuming you have tuned to single pulse per magnet). SSG has its own "sweet spot" which needs to be tuned to. Best charging doesn't occur at highest speed.

V
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  #1570  
Old 06-07-2011, 02:12 AM
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Neight Neight is offline
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here is my experience with more and less magnets and my opinion on why...
with my SSG setup I started with 4 mags and then doubled that to eight. I have also used 6 magnets on one setup and my largest rotor has 16 magnets on it. watching the difference in amp draw and top RPM between 4 and 8 magnets on the same rotor i noticed that the amp draw at startup is the same. it wasn't until I got the RPM's to settle where the circuit wanted to run that the amp draw dropped to any significant degree.
I was fortunate enough to be given an oscilloscope and when I hook up the scope and the ammeter I noticed a few things with any number of magnets. as the rotor speeds up faster and faster the amp draw increases until it gets fast enough to drop to 2 pulses per magnet. it will stay at about the same amp draw from there until the rotor is going fast enough to drop to one pulse/magnet. that is when the amp draw drops to it's lowest. the more resistance I use with my pot the faster my rotor goes until the resistance gets high enough to cause the coil to self oscillate which makes the rotor slow back down in a hurry.
on my 4 mag setup the amp draw would again start to go up as the rotor sped up after dropping to one pulse per magnet. at top speed I was drawing about 110mA. when i doubled that to 8 mags I can run the rotor all the way up to top speed and the amp draw keeps decreasing until it hits it's peak RPM just before the coil would start to self oscillate. with 8 magnets I get a much lower amp draw (about 65-70mA) and much higher top RPM and better torque.
the conclusion i drew from this is pretty simple. with 4 magnets the spacing between the magnets sort of caps out the RPM for tuning purposes. at it's lowest amp draw you are not at top speed. to get a 4 mag rotor up to top speed, it takes more power because you are working with half the pulses. with 8 mags there is half the space between the magnets and much less time between pulses. that keeps the momentum up by default and since you are not losing as much momentum between pulses it doesn't take as much power to drive the rotor. sort of like quicker on/off time, but not exactly, just less power needed to maintained speed. I think there would be an ideal magnet spacing for best efficiency. if they are too far apart you are limited to how much RPM you can get at XX amp draw. too close and you don't get a sharp on/off and that will really limit your output power and increase your input amp draw or worse, it wont run at all .
On my SSG i can't use a dedicated resistor for tuning. every time I turn it on, I have to adjust the pot to get it to top speed/lowest amp draw. I am not really sure why that is...
my machine runs best with the pot turned all the way to highest resistance, but from a dead stop it wont get up to high RPM or low amp draw unless I back the resistance down and let the rotor speed up, then turn the resistance back up. once it is at top speed, it runs easily below 70mA input current and is reasonably efficient. play around with magnet spacing and magnet types. it sounds like you are using a bigger rotor, which will take more power to run anyway, though once it gets up to speed, should have a better fly-wheel effect and run pretty smooth. watch your meter as the rotor speeds up, you can see when the coil is only pulsing once per magnet because the input draw will drop off suddenly. once you see that needle drop, that is going to be your "sweet spot" (lowest amp draw at highest RPM) even if you can go higher on RPM, for charging purposes you really want lower amp draw. If torque and speed are your aim, then turn it up!!
hope this makes sense, it is about 90% observation and opinion, so if anyone sees anywhere i need correcting, please do so, I am very much still learning here


N8
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  #1571  
Old 06-07-2011, 07:54 AM
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On my SSG i can't use a dedicated resistor for tuning. every time I turn it on, I have to adjust the pot to get it to top speed/lowest amp draw. I am not really sure why that is...

N8
This is because of the impedance of the load connected. I think, at sweet spot the output impedance of the system is closely matched with the load (in this case batteries) impedance. But, since the impedance of batteries changes as they charge up and so does the sweet spot.
If you change the battery at the output sweet spot will change because that new battery will have a different impedance.
For best results you must match the two impedances.


Regards,
Salman
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  #1572  
Old 06-09-2011, 12:31 AM
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This is because of the impedance of the load connected. I think, at sweet spot the output impedance of the system is closely matched with the load (in this case batteries) impedance. But, since the impedance of batteries changes as they charge up and so does the sweet spot.
If you change the battery at the output sweet spot will change because that new battery will have a different impedance.
For best results you must match the two impedances.


Regards,
Salman
Hey Salman, thanks for the reply and input!
I don't think that is what is going on in this case though. the "sweet spot" (highest RPM @ lowest amp draw) remains the same. I can turn my motor off, change nothing at all and turn it right back on and I still have to re-tune with the pot to get it back up to speed and lower the amp input. when it is running best, my 1k pot is turned all the way up to highest resistance. when i turn my motor on, I have to turn the pot all the way down (probably not all the way down, but it speeds up faster if I start at the lowest resistance and slowly turn it up, otherwise I have to wait a longer time for the rotor to get to speed before I turn the resistance back up), then once the rotor is no longer speeding up, I can turn the pot up slowly and the rotor will speed up with the resistance until the 1k pot is all the way up. If i go too fast with the pot knob, I get "in front" of the rotor speed and it will slow back down again.
it's kind of odd, and I am assuming it is because of the magnets I am using (double stacked 1/2" x 1/8" neo cylinders totaling one cylinder that is 1/2" (dia x 1/4" depth) I am thinking the magnetic field is a bit too strong and I am getting cogging at lower speed, reducing the initial RPM cap. once it gets enough RPM in the rotor, it then has the momentum to overcome the drag and speed up to it's max RPM which is a bit over 3k by my calculation.
it takes very low resistance to let the rotor get to speed and once it has maxed out RPM at lower resistance i can then up the ohms and speed the rotor all the way up.
just my opinion of what's going on here. I have a large wheel rotor with 16 ceramic mags on it, and I don't have to tune it every time, it will get up to speed, though it does so slowly.
thanks for the input, I appreciate it!

N8
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  #1573  
Old 06-09-2011, 01:08 AM
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Hey Salman, thanks for the reply and input!
I don't think that is what is going on in this case though. the "sweet spot" (highest RPM @ lowest amp draw) remains the same. I can turn my motor off, change nothing at all and turn it right back on and I still have to re-tune with the pot to get it back up to speed and lower the amp input. when it is running best, my 1k pot is turned all the way up to highest resistance. when i turn my motor on, I have to turn the pot all the way down (probably not all the way down, but it speeds up faster if I start at the lowest resistance and slowly turn it up, otherwise I have to wait a longer time for the rotor to get to speed before I turn the resistance back up), then once the rotor is no longer speeding up, I can turn the pot up slowly and the rotor will speed up with the resistance until the 1k pot is all the way up. If i go too fast with the pot knob, I get "in front" of the rotor speed and it will slow back down again.
it's kind of odd, and I am assuming it is because of the magnets I am using (double stacked 1/2" x 1/8" neo cylinders totaling one cylinder that is 1/2" (dia x 1/4" depth) I am thinking the magnetic field is a bit too strong and I am getting cogging at lower speed, reducing the initial RPM cap. once it gets enough RPM in the rotor, it then has the momentum to overcome the drag and speed up to it's max RPM which is a bit over 3k by my calculation.
it takes very low resistance to let the rotor get to speed and once it has maxed out RPM at lower resistance i can then up the ohms and speed the rotor all the way up.
just my opinion of what's going on here. I have a large wheel rotor with 16 ceramic mags on it, and I don't have to tune it every time, it will get up to speed, though it does so slowly.
thanks for the input, I appreciate it!

N8
That sounds about right to me.
one thing you can do, once you find the sweet spot (and salmon is right it will change depending on the batteries) as long as you are using the same batteries though, once you find the sweet spot, stop the wheel measure the pot find the resistor/s that match/es (as I'm sure you already did). have this resistance "on hand" so once you get the rotor up to speed, you can flip a switch or move a wire to go from the pot to the resistor/s. "viola" you don't have to waste your time tunning every single startup.
I'm sure you thought of this or are already doing it prior to my typing, so this is just for anyone else who comes along as well

Patrick
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  #1574  
Old 06-09-2011, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
That sounds about right to me.
one thing you can do, once you find the sweet spot (and salmon is right it will change depending on the batteries) as long as you are using the same batteries though, once you find the sweet spot, stop the wheel measure the pot find the resistor/s that match/es (as I'm sure you already did). have this resistance "on hand" so once you get the rotor up to speed, you can flip a switch or move a wire to go from the pot to the resistor/s. "viola" you don't have to waste your time tunning every single startup.
I'm sure you thought of this or are already doing it prior to my typing, so this is just for anyone else who comes along as well

Patrick
Hey Patrick
thanks for the confirmation and the tip!
I was fairly certain that was what I had going on, since I didn't seem to have the same issue with the ceramic magnets on my larger rotor. I have considered using a fixed resistor with a jumper to switch back and fourth, but it honestly doesn't bother me enough to do anything to change it. it still only takes a few seconds to get the rotor up to top speed, and I like playing with it anyway
I have been ridiculously busy lately, and haven't had much time to do any builds, though I have several that i would like to attempt. I have still been reading things here every day and learning quite a bit, especially on the romero/muller post, which is where I learned that cogging was a likely issue with the magnets I was using.
I have put a biasing magnet on the empty end of my coil core. using the same magnets for the biasing mag as I am the rotor magnets. it doesn't do much to help the efficiency, (not a noticeable power usage effect anyway) though it does reduce the noise quite a bit, and the cogging seems to be less of an issue, though it doesn't help with tuning at all. it might get a slight RPM bump, but not much if any. just something to play with and test while i don't have time to sit and build anything new.
thanks again!
N8
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  #1575  
Old 06-25-2011, 02:25 AM
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Solid-state

"the more resistance I use with my pot the faster my rotor goes until the resistance gets high enough to cause the coil to self oscillate which makes the rotor slow back down in a hurry".

Hey N8,

I was just wondering if you have obtained self-oscillations in the SSG causing a solid state function?.

I have saturated my coil (not sure how, have 2mm welding rods, unless is the magnetic air gap distance, last variable to tick off.) during last test and the SSG started to generate a high pitch squeel then rotor slowed down.
Then began to charge solid-state drawing 200mA (no meter on output)
and seemed efficient. However, makes more noise than the fast pulsing 2400-2500RPM on SSG.(removed all noise, except the trigger pulses)
The sound was so loud I hit my STDP switch just to ensure wasnt about to explode a component and if I was to create a solid-state model I would have to add sound proof case to tollerate being in the same room as it.

Are you still adding to your "first SSG" post or just here now bro?

Regards
Zero
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  #1576  
Old 06-25-2011, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeropointEnergy View Post
"the more resistance I use with my pot the faster my rotor goes until the resistance gets high enough to cause the coil to self oscillate which makes the rotor slow back down in a hurry".

Hey N8,

I was just wondering if you have obtained self-oscillations in the SSG causing a solid state function?.

I have saturated my coil (not sure how, have 2mm welding rods, unless is the magnetic air gap distance, last variable to tick off.) during last test and the SSG started to generate a high pitch squeel then rotor slowed down.
Then began to charge solid-state drawing 200mA (no meter on output)
and seemed efficient. However, makes more noise than the fast pulsing 2400-2500RPM on SSG.(removed all noise, except the trigger pulses)
The sound was so loud I hit my STDP switch just to ensure wasnt about to explode a component and if I was to create a solid-state model I would have to add sound proof case to tollerate being in the same room as it.

Are you still adding to your "first SSG" post or just here now bro?

Regards
Zero
Hey zero

as far as I know, if you can hear the coil on an SSG and your rotor stops spinning, then it is running solid state. from what I have learned, this works, though not as efficient as a device that is made to be solid state.
I never really did any testing when my coils were singing to me, though I should have....
replicating that would be easy enough though, just use a bigger pot.
5k pot will easily make a solid state out of an SSG. Might wire one up and try it, just to see how good it really does work, now that you mention it
the noise I would get wasn't loud enough to make me uncomfortable, but it would get annoying after a while.
and unless your coils or components start getting really hot, I don't think you have much to worry about, though it can be unsettling when things are making loud noises and they are not supposed to :surprise:


and I really just post wherever people are talking, there were questions here, so I came to try and help answer them. if there are more posts in the thread I started, I will follow those just the same
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  #1577  
Old 06-29-2011, 05:44 PM
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ZeropointEnergy ZeropointEnergy is offline
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Hey zero

as far as I know, if you can hear the coil on an SSG and your rotor stops spinning, then it is running solid state. from what I have learned, this works, though not as efficient as a device that is made to be solid state.
I never really did any testing when my coils were singing to me, though I should have....
replicating that would be easy enough though, just use a bigger pot.
5k pot will easily make a solid state out of an SSG. Might wire one up and try it, just to see how good it really does work, now that you mention it
the noise I would get wasn't loud enough to make me uncomfortable, but it would get annoying after a while.
and unless your coils or components start getting really hot, I don't think you have much to worry about, though it can be unsettling when things are making loud noises and they are not supposed to :surprise:


and I really just post wherever people are talking, there were questions here, so I came to try and help answer them. if there are more posts in the thread I started, I will follow those just the same

Hey N8,

I'm trying lots of new things on paper and test circuits for the SSG now but have 2 runs to finish 20 so not going to mod it yet. When completed for group I will add extra coil, Tesla impulse series circuit, cap pulser and the list goes on.
Will have my new Yahoo spec SSG running tonight or tomorrow if I put the few hrs into it and epoxy on the 18 magnets. (is 26 inch rim, so every 2nd spoke)

I'll keep track of the few posts we are checking out

Regards
Zero
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  #1578  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:53 AM
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Neight Neight is offline
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Hey zero
glad to hear you are moving along on your battery runs! takes time, but its worth tracking, I have learned a lot while cycling my batteries around.
I am still working on learning this coil shorting, and have really had a blast messing with it all.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with

N8
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  #1579  
Old 07-04-2011, 01:35 AM
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Paramagnetic Core

playing around with a paramagnetic core:

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhee

almost lenzless... the possibilities are endless... well not really endless

Patrick
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  #1580  
Old 07-04-2011, 04:07 PM
BillW BillW is offline
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10-coil trigger

I'm trying to get my 10-coil kit running. The trigger signal, as 'scoped across the trigger coil is approx. 1v p-p. It appears almost sinusoidal. It does not seem to be strong enough to fire the transistors.

Pri Bat = 12 v , 2nd Bat = 24 v Any thoughts about where to look? I had some difficulty sifting through which coil wire went where. If I made the wrong choice, could this be the problem?

I could mount a timing disk with appropriate drive circuity and thereby control trigger amplitude, onset time, and pulse width. Would that be wise?

Thanks!
BillW
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
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I'm trying to get my 10-coil kit running. The trigger signal, as 'scoped across the trigger coil is approx. 1v p-p. It appears almost sinusoidal. It does not seem to be strong enough to fire the transistors.

Pri Bat = 12 v , 2nd Bat = 24 v Any thoughts about where to look? I had some difficulty sifting through which coil wire went where. If I made the wrong choice, could this be the problem?

I could mount a timing disk with appropriate drive circuity and thereby control trigger amplitude, onset time, and pulse width. Would that be wise?

Thanks!
BillW
2cents - start with one coil and only a few 3 strands. get that working, very basic. then move to all 8 strands, then add one coil at a time. Base resistance will send you guessing if you start with all coils at the same time never having experience w/ how it wants to act.
Also, apply to Bedini monopole 4 at yahoo groups. you're an automatic in w/ the 10 coiler...

Patrick
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  #1582  
Old 07-07-2011, 10:10 AM
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ZeropointEnergy ZeropointEnergy is offline
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Tesla Impulse Technology

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Originally Posted by Neight View Post
Hey zero
glad to hear you are moving along on your battery runs! takes time, but its worth tracking, I have learned a lot while cycling my batteries around.
I am still working on learning this coil shorting, and have really had a blast messing with it all.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with

N8

Hey N8,

I have something for you to try, just need a capacitor, FWBR x 2
and some hookup leads. (can use 1N4007 x4 or other made FWBR)
I'm investigating this before go further , there is a relationship
between the reasonate frequency of the circuit vs the load of
the capacitor/battery in series with the coil and the FWBR.

This is the basic set up with 2x FWBR's and a extra voltage node collector.
If you want the basics, add a lead from top of power coil to your FWBR
AC terminal, lead to bottom of power coil to other AC terminal, hook the DC
output to battery.
This will bypass the 1N4007 diode and output leads on my circuit, so easy
to test, no need to unsolder/solder .

Regards
Zero
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SSG with Tesla Impulse Technology.jpg (56.0 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Basic Tesla Impulse Technology.jpg (58.6 KB, 44 views)
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  #1583  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:32 PM
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Tesla Impulse Technology Single FWBR

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neight View Post
Hey zero
glad to hear you are moving along on your battery runs! takes time, but its worth tracking, I have learned a lot while cycling my batteries around.
I am still working on learning this coil shorting, and have really had a blast messing with it all.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with

N8
Hey N8,

I took a few pics later and here it is running at 200mA+ draw and
3200-3255 on digital tacho, on iphone sorry about quality and others
will email you clearer.

Regards
Zero
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File Type: jpg Tesla Impulse Technology Basic Circuit Running.jpg (73.3 KB, 39 views)
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  #1584  
Old 07-13-2011, 09:01 AM
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Impedance matching and reasonance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neight View Post
Hey zero
glad to hear you are moving along on your battery runs! takes time, but its worth tracking, I have learned a lot while cycling my batteries around.
I am still working on learning this coil shorting, and have really had a blast messing with it all.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with

N8
Hey N8,

I was playing around with the "cap-pulser circuit" vs "Tesla Impulse Tech" and the result appear impulses is highly efficient way of obtaining negative/radiant energy.
With a large cap 25V/30000uF set to dump to circuit at 22.6V and provided modest results only bringing the 12V/7aH battery from 12.22V-12.42V.
In the same time period (2hrs) with impulses the battery reached 12.9V.
This was a battery never exposed to RE and thus didnt expect great results with either way, I know to try HV/low uF for sulfated batteries, but this way just a test to gauge results.

Finally, I have been testing various FWBR's ranging from 400V/1.5A to 1kV/50A, the 800V/35A provided the lowest voltage drop and more importantly generates the greatest AC voltage from the inductor.
I still have to try my 1N5408 and germainium FWBR's I made, will test soon.
Hope that helps if you did'nt try that many FWBR's

If anyone has any input on different experiments using impulses and the potential for charging batteries/caps of multiple nodes in series off the power coil on the SSG, I'm open to ideas.

Regards
Zero
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Last edited by ZeropointEnergy; 07-13-2011 at 09:25 AM.
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  #1585  
Old 07-13-2011, 09:07 AM
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ZeropointEnergy ZeropointEnergy is offline
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Great work:)

Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
playing around with a paramagnetic core:

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhee

almost lenzless... the possibilities are endless... well not really endless

Patrick
Hey Patrick,

I checked it out and posted a message, is a great anomoly and needs further investigation.
Looking forward to see where this goes and the potential applications and to our knowledge of magnetism.

Regards
Zero
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:35 PM
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Neight Neight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeropointEnergy View Post
Hey Patrick,

I checked it out and posted a message, is a great anomoly and needs further investigation.
Looking forward to see where this goes and the potential applications and to our knowledge of magnetism.

Regards
Zero
I happen to have some powdered molybdenum and powdered magnesium (both on the list of paramagnetic materials). I just found my magnesium yesterday, so I haven't tried it, but here are the results I had with the molybdenum...
IT DOESN'T MIX WITH SUPERGLUE.....
I really need to go get some epoxy to mix this stuff in, it wouldn't mix with the glue for anything (great news for people who use moly in their motor oils ) forcing some moly down into some glue and doing what I could, it really doesn't produce any drag, though my first test was a real mess.
I am going to get some decent epoxy and make a 50/50 mix of moly and magnesium, and try to inject that into a core with a bolus syringe.

I also have a salt shaker full of iron filings, and I am going to try one mix with some of that in as well. not much, not even one full part, just enough to mix into the rest, see if it helps with core saturation and energy production while still having absolutely minimal drag.

the coil I am going to try this in will be one of slider's multi-strand coils. I took apart a CRT monitor last night and will be getting the litz out of it and winding up a coil and using a paramagnetic core in it, see if I can't make anything fun happen that way!
I will post any results i get. might take me a day or two to get it all done, but that is what I will be working on
N8
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:06 PM
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minoly minoly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neight View Post
I happen to have some powdered molybdenum and powdered magnesium (both on the list of paramagnetic materials). I just found my magnesium yesterday, so I haven't tried it, but here are the results I had with the molybdenum...
IT DOESN'T MIX WITH SUPERGLUE.....
I really need to go get some epoxy to mix this stuff in, it wouldn't mix with the glue for anything (great news for people who use moly in their motor oils ) forcing some moly down into some glue and doing what I could, it really doesn't produce any drag, though my first test was a real mess.
I am going to get some decent epoxy and make a 50/50 mix of moly and magnesium, and try to inject that into a core with a bolus syringe.

I also have a salt shaker full of iron filings, and I am going to try one mix with some of that in as well. not much, not even one full part, just enough to mix into the rest, see if it helps with core saturation and energy production while still having absolutely minimal drag.

the coil I am going to try this in will be one of slider's multi-strand coils. I took apart a CRT monitor last night and will be getting the litz out of it and winding up a coil and using a paramagnetic core in it, see if I can't make anything fun happen that way!
I will post any results i get. might take me a day or two to get it all done, but that is what I will be working on
N8
We used stick 'n' seal - local hardware store $2
use extremely little so it does not take up space and become an air coil :-)
results are very interesting, it makes the rotor spin faster, you can use bigger magnets, but the cost (amps-in) is the same. I would have thought "removing lenz" would cost less in amps. In a side by side comparison - literally using the same coil and interchanging the core - same ckt resistances etc... the amps-in remain the same

Patrick
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:11 PM
penno64 penno64 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
We used stick 'n' seal - local hardware store $2
use extremely little so it does not take up space and become an air coil :-)
results are very interesting, it makes the rotor spin faster, you can use bigger magnets, but the cost (amps-in) is the same. I would have thought "removing lenz" would cost less in amps. In a side by side comparison - literally using the same coil and interchanging the core - same ckt resistances etc... the amps-in remain the same

Patrick
Hey Patrick,

I have not been able to get onto the group, but what is this magic
paramagnetic material ?

Regards, Penno
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:29 PM
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minoly minoly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penno64 View Post
Hey Patrick,

I have not been able to get onto the group, but what is this magic
paramagnetic material ?

Regards, Penno
Hi Penno,
I don't think I'd use the word "magic"
Here is what the guy who sent it to me said about it:


"I am glad that I can help you out with your experiments.

Basically, There is not much else to say about the minerals. I am trying to find the chemical analysis, but it has been quite some time since I had it done and I seem to have misplaced it. I will keep looking and send to you if I find it.

The material is tailings from gold, platinum and molybdenem mines in Canada. It contains pretty much all of the Transition Metals and Lanthanoids on the Periodic Table. My purpose was to find a source of fertilizer trace minerals for plant growth - primarily molybdenum, but also for the paramagnetic minerals which I pulse at the Schuman Frequency.

Very few of the minerals are for plant chemistry. Mainly I was looking for the energetic qualities. I screened materials all over North America with a Callahan Paramagnetic Meter to find the best source which measures above 30,000 cgs -- the sample you have. Enjoy!"

"I wanted to let you know that I checked my other bucket of minerals today and found out that it is not the 30,000 cgs mineral, but a lesser grade of 4,000 cgs which is a very excellent plant fertilizer, but will not give you as "clean" a spike. In fact, the 30,000 cgs is too sharp for plant growth and I have to dilute with other minerals. With plants, I want a slower, more gradual ramp up and down. I am looking to produce a square wave, but with rounded shoulders instead of sharp spike. "

so there you have it.

Patrick
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:34 AM
sudhirpaul sudhirpaul is offline
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my first ssg in 3 day and tuned!

Quote:
Originally Posted by minoly View Post
That sounds about right to me.
one thing you can do, once you find the sweet spot (and salmon is right it will change depending on the batteries) as long as you are using the same batteries though, once you find the sweet spot, stop the wheel measure the pot find the resistor/s that match/es (as I'm sure you already did). have this resistance "on hand" so once you get the rotor up to speed, you can flip a switch or move a wire to go from the pot to the resistor/s. "viola" you don't have to waste your time tunning every single startup.
I'm sure you thought of this or are already doing it prior to my typing, so this is just for anyone else who comes along as well

Patrick

hi to all
great forum here. spent 5 days reading before starting, so i was aware of the problems people were facing. one thing i learnt was follow instructions, get the first one working. then experiment. built my first ssg 3 days ago, carefully, spun it, and it did not work. i know electronics and so i knew the transistor was soldered correctly diode was correct coil resistance was 5.6 and 10 ohms, so knew it was correct, not short, i knew the pulse was not there to switch on the transistor, but i did not know why? so i left it as it was and did not sleep for 24 hrs , i had to get it right, something as simple as this had to work, well after some time of trying to sleep(which did not happen) sat in front of ssg and checked the magnets, guess what?they had lost all power!! nothing,! could not attract even a pin. that is when i realized should have followed instructions to the T. i was using alnico bar magnets, please everybody do not use those. i had some neo magnets that i had removed from old hard disk, i broke it into small pieces, 3mm sort of , stuck it on the hard disk platter and gave it a spin , and voila it started,
watched it spin for some time and decided to charge the first battery. the voltage would not rise at all, i had done the adjustment using the preset, connected 1ohm resistor, voltage across it was less then 1 volt and it was not heating so i thought it was correct, why was the voltage not rising in the battery? even after 2 days. very slight maybe 1 volt or less , so what was wrong now, read this and previous post, tried cleaning the bearing, changed transistors, tried a different pickup coil , varied the triggering angle, the speed would pick up, but there was no output. volts. maybe the small magnets were not being repelled hard enough, so i took the neo magnet from another hard disk, really powerful, and stuck it on the core, which was the I section of a burnt out transformer, and the disk picked up speed, now is the interesting part, I connected the charging battery and watched the multimeter, the voltage was increasing slowly but steadily. i also observed that there was a slight hum coming from the circuit. and every time the resonance would phase there was an increase in voltage, the battery picked up 1 volt within an hour.
so now i understand what tuning meant. you have to listen carefully and adjust the pot until you can hear a steady hum shifting very very slowly. i also noticed that when the voltage increased the resonance would change and the circuit would automatically try to realign itself. and when it did there would be another increase, i think the circuit was trying to match the impedance of the battery, and it did it brilliantly. no electronic circuit can come even close to ssg. electronic circuits are just desulfators. compared to ssg. i will observe and post further results. what i want to tell here is, listen to it to tune it, everything else will follow.
another .5 volt increase by the time i wrote this . (the battery is 12 volt 7ah has not been used for more the 2 years , initial voltage was around 5 volts, got it up using a conventional charger then connected it to ssg)

if this is in the wrong section please do the needful
bye
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