It will be best to solder and secure with tape. You don't have to wrap tape around because it will make following layer messy. Just fold couple times. If this connection will become loose your circuit will stop working and you'll need to unwind to fix it. Make a good solder.

V

ok so in this pic

i need to know what the base means in the picture

what does the grond mean in the basic diagram on page 50? i need to know asap

When you want to attach pic, scroll down to additional options, select manage attachments, new window will open. Browse and select your pic and select upload.

V

It means that circuit can be connected to the ground or Earth and this is a common connecting point for the emitter,diode,coil and neg. battery post. Don't worry about the ground connection right now.

V

well i worked alot on this and it dosent work cant find the problem. if somebody could me a step by step tutorial for what you do with the wires extending from the coil becuase i can not get this to work please help

Ok, I'll try do my best.

First, coil: Your coil should be wound clockwise, starting from the bottom. In other words when you hold the spool in your left hand and wind with right, your right hand should move in clockwise motion.
Now, if you just did that, the end which you're holding and the start of wires will be the bottom. The other end and end of wires I'll refer as a top.
Coil bottom is the part the coil "sits" on and the top is facing rotor.
You have two pairs of wires; two beginnings (bottom) and two ends (top).
These wires will become a trigger coil (with its beginning and end) and power coil (with beginning and end).
Determine which ends belong to the same wire.
Bottom wire of one winding goes to the collector of your transistor. End of this wire goes to the "+" of battery.
Bottom wire of second winding goes to the "-" of battery. End of this wire goes to the resistor connected to the base of transistor.

This is always confusing to first time builders and causes frustration. Make sure everything is connected as I just wrote.


V

and then what else do i have to do from there to connect a led light and make it light of when i spin the rotor

Did you get your rotor running?
LED is connected to the separate coil, each leg to the end of a wire. Polarity doesn't matter. If you bring this coil close to the rotating rotor you'll see the LED getting bright. Passing magnets will induce electric potential in the wire, just enough to power LED. If you look at my youtube with starship coil, you'll notice a round black ring with green LED which I hold over the top of the coil. This is the same idea, except my coil is different shape.
Generator coil is just a small coil with LED. Separate from the main circuit and not connected anywhere.

V

cant get the rotor to spin want me to take a pic of my setup

Picture would be handy, if you can. One more thing; what transistor are you using and did you connect it right (did you figure out which pin is which in terms of base/emitter/collector)?

V

yeah im done for tonight ill try anfdget this working outside of school talk to you guys later

Hi,

I just made bedini multi coil circuit. I made 8 power coils.
trigger coil adjustable resistance is 20 ohm.
Schematic is attached.
I used BDC243C transistor.
I got about 150V peak at ouput, approx 1.45~1.55A input current.
The current to 12V,5.4Ahr battery was about 0.55~0.65A.
When i disconnected the battery(i have attached neon bulb for safety), the input current started to increase and so is the rpm of wheel.
But when i connected the battery rpm was slow. Just input current was greater
if we compare it with single coil SG.

Any suggestions... to improve rpm and charging rate.
I haven't yet tested the charging rate for this multi coil SG. I will update that soon.

Salman.

Attached Images

	bedini multi-coil.jpg (151.9 KB, 32 views)
	general.jpg (482.2 KB, 36 views)
	WaveForm.jpg (65.3 KB, 17 views)
	input current.jpg (94.3 KB, 16 views)

Hi Salman,
your currents look about right. I like your build it looks clean and solid

what are your coil specs? wire length, awg, core, etc...
what is your RPM?
are your magnets ceramic?
in the scope shot, why are some of your on times longer than others?
the neon's will not always protect your transistors, they are meant as training wheels, I would not disconnect the charge battery.
do you have your power supply connected directly to the energizer input?
you should at least put a large cap in between.
if you want better charging you should use a large/huge LAB on the front end. One that will take your 1.5Amp (preferably 2amp) at a C20 discharge rate.
JB offers a ton of info in his posts here on this old forum:
Bedini_SG : Bedini SG Discussion List
search his posts

Patrick

Coil specs: trigger coil AWG#26 , All 8 power coils AWG#23
Wire length : about 450 turns each
Magnets are ceramic.

"why are some of your on times longer than others?"
Well i don't know the exact reason yet.

Yes power supply is directly connected to energizer.

"you should use a large/huge LAB on the front end."
I didn't get that ..............LAB??

I think i need to tune my circuit a little..

You may need to adjust base resistors for each transistor. What values are they?
As minoly suggested:
You may want to put large cap across the input to match the impedance of PS and circuit. Something in 20,000 - 50,000uF range, or use a large battery which will match impedance better than PS may.

Vtech

Hi,

transistor base resistors are all 470ohm.
I have a variable resistor of 1K connected in series(in place of 22 ohm in schematic) with the trigger coil.
I changed that resistor to tune the circuit for minimum input current and maximum speed of the wheel.
I noticed that the speed increased and input current decreased with increasing the trigger coil resistance.
The optimum value on which i tuned it is around 300ohm.
Now the input current is about 430mA and battery charging current is 200mA.
And speed has improved pretty good.

Attached is the waveform that i get just before the 1n4008 diode (collector of BD243C) while the 7.2Ahr battery is connected.
Is 7.2Ahr good i mean huge or i need more higher rated one..?
I have connected a 12V,4A adapter (instead of power supply) at the input side.
Will the capacitor still be necessary...?
What if i connect another battery at the input.

Attached Images

battery attached.jpg (123.1 KB, 13 views)

7.2 ah divided by 20 = 360mA draw max if you are currently drawing 430mA, you have exceeded the C20 rate and will slowly kill the primary.

two bigger reasons for a large LAB on the front:
IMPEDANCE
and
staying w/in tunning range. - your charging battery will already throw the tunning off because the impedance will change as it's voltage rises. the bulb on the trigger should help w/ this, however, you do not want the front end to take a dive at the same time - the bulb might not be enough to servo the oscillator.
remember "The Tortoise and the Hare".
just because your wheel spins fast does not mean it will charge the battery fast.
your battery will charge on it's own time, get to know it, the more runs you put it through, the better it will respond - why....
did you search any of JB's posts on that link yet...

Patrick

I didn't connected a bulb on trigger....
Do you mean that i should tune the circuit to take input current according to c20 rate of the charging battery...? And speed does not matters..?

"why....did you search any of JB's posts on that link yet.."
I am on it...takes time to search through lots of random stuff.

No, what he meant was to respect C20 for primary battery if you decide to use one to power you circuit. The one you have - 7.2Ah is not suitable as such.
What matters is a tuning spot where SSG becomes most efficient. Best charging can be found and moderate, not the highest speed. Remember, this is an energizer not a motor and we're not after highest rpm but balance between rpm and least current draw. You may get your wheel up to 350rpm but best charging may occur at 200. Just an example.


Vtech

Dave at BM3 just uploaded a PDF in the files at BM3 that has all JB and Peter L.'s posts.
It's an automatic membership there if you are not already. this is the direct link to his pdf:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oO7mTWZ...B%20Digest.pdf
if you need to join:
Bedini_Monopole3 : Bedini_Monopole3

you want to tune your circuit and then choose the battery according to the draw. for what you have I would just start w/ 100Ah on the front. the alternative is to put a large cap on your power supply. but the circuit will see the difference between the two. Bit's has a somewhat complicated but very workable battery swapper DC to DC converter that allows him to work w/ smaller batteries. however IMHO the draw on those is still to high for any long term solution. still very nice for large batteries as well.

I have a very similar coil to yours 9 power windings 1 trigger winding same awg 265'. it charges best between 1amp to 2 amps depending on the battery being charged.
hope this helps

Patrick

Hi,

Yes i am a member of BM3. But
"http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oO7mTWZ...B%20Digest.pdf"

this link isn't working.

Ok ,
Now i have connected 90Ahr battery on the front and tuned the circuit.
At the optimum spot (i think it is but i maybe wrong) the circuit is taking input
current of about 600mA.
output current to battery is 300mA.
RPM of wheel is about 200.

LAB = Lead Acid Battery.

try this:
http://tinyurl.com/3w5rm8d

Noops this too not working..it says Document could not be found.
Can you attach that pdf file here with your post plz..

This sounds about right. Try not to have A - meter connected permanently on the output side unless it is a clamp type.


V

No i didn't have meter connected permanently. I just check after an hour or so and voltage is increasing .....In the morning battery was at 10.6V and now it is showing 11.98V while connected.

I would if it was mine. Links work for me from a diff computer even. last try - this is a link to his folder:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/B...ion/Dave%20Sw/
otherwise go to the files section then experimenters files then Dave Sw.

Patrick

Link works for me after I log in.


Vtech