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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #1411  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:25 PM
Zooty Zooty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinky View Post
I couldn't reproduce this mornings fierce purple and white neon flaring up whatever I tried, perhaps leaving it primed but not spinning last night had some effect I know the neon is for safety and a tuned system doesn't need it but this was a very different effect to the neon glowing at high resistance.
I tried to show a friend who popped over without success and felt like a fisherman exaggerating how big his catch was.
Anyone know what I mean? I badly want to reproduce it and grab some macro shots.
Change the neon for a new one and it will probably flash purple again. Eventually the glass becomes silver and the purple flashes stop. I think there is a change inside the neon that stops it from happening.
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  #1412  
Old 11-02-2010, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinky
I couldn't reproduce this mornings fierce purple and white neon flaring up whatever I tried, perhaps leaving it primed but not spinning last night had some effect I know the neon is for safety and a tuned system doesn't need it but this was a very different effect to the neon glowing at high resistance.
I tried to show a friend who popped over without success and felt like a fisherman exaggerating how big his catch was.
Anyone know what I mean? I badly want to reproduce it and grab some macro shots.
Change the neon for a new one and it will probably flash purple again. Eventually the glass becomes silver and the purple flashes stop. I think there is a change inside the neon that stops it from happening.
Yes I do know what you mean I just got some new neons recently and WOW the difference is dramatic the new one's burn so bright it hurts, I can't wait to show someone. I got them cheaper by buying 30, I was taking them from old appliances to use, but I think they were made for 240 v and so they didn't protect some lower rated transistors at all. If there is one thing i will not skimp on in future it is the neons.

Regards
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  #1413  
Old 11-03-2010, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjnlsn255 View Post
Great rotor.... looks awsome for a Bedini Window motor.....

You can probably drill out the ends of the shaft and thread the hole to whatever size and thread you like.... that would be easy.....

What are the materials it is made of?

Hopes and Dreams....

Tj
Actually, I was going to make a six multistrand coiler with it. I still have to calculate if I can fit 6 litzed AWG#18 plus one winding in opposite direction. It doesn't look like my spools will accommodate that. I may have to try #21 instead and keep #18 for multistrand solid state. I run trifilar #18 SS for the past couple months and I want to try 8 fillar coil with that.
6" x 2" rotor is made of aircraft aluminum and has stainless steel shaft, but the shaft is huge. I'm worry it may interfere in working setup. It wont bend, for sure


Vtech
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  #1414  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by blackchisel97 View Post
Now I have to figure out how to modify that in simple way to be useful for my project. I'm tired of working with people around
That is sad news. How about tying the magnet with car fanbelt at side? to leave some gap in the middle. usually fanbelt available at various size and it is very strong.
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  #1415  
Old 11-03-2010, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sucahyo View Post
That is sad news. How about tying the magnet with car fanbelt at side? to leave some gap in the middle. usually fanbelt available at various size and it is very strong.
The rotor itself was done well. Magnets slide from the side since the slots are slightly tapered and will be epoxied as well. I'm just unhappy with the diameter of the shaft, fastening nut and lack of flange. I think I'll ask them to cut off most of the unthreaded part and make a round flange threaded inside which can be fastened to the vertical part. I'll need a 1/2" or less spacer between the wall and rotor side too. Just got home and have to get few things done, including pyramid modification (have some interesting observation with use of crystals - will post in pyramid thread later), multistrand for my solid state, start assembling cap pulser and couple more, if time permits.


Vtech
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  #1416  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by blackchisel97 View Post
The rotor itself was done well. Magnets slide from the side since the slots are slightly tapered and will be epoxied as well. I'm just unhappy with the diameter of the shaft, fastening nut and lack of flange. I think I'll ask them to cut off most of the unthreaded part and make a round flange threaded inside which can be fastened to the vertical part. I'll need a 1/2" or less spacer between the wall and rotor side too. Just got home and have to get few things done, including pyramid modification (have some interesting observation with use of crystals - will post in pyramid thread later), multistrand for my solid state, start assembling cap pulser and couple more, if time permits.


Vtech
I see. Look forward for the result .
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  #1417  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:31 AM
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blackchisel97,

Quote:
The rotor itself was done well. Magnets slide from the side since the slots are slightly tapered and will be epoxied as well. I'm just unhappy with the diameter of the shaft, fastening nut and lack of flange. I think I'll ask them to cut off most of the unthreaded part and make a round flange threaded inside which can be fastened to the vertical part. I'll need a 1/2" or less spacer between the wall and rotor side too
.

I am green with envy I would love to build a SG like you are.

The problem with your shaft is dissapointing to say the least, all I can think of is maybe to use bearings that fit the rotor hole that have a smaller diameter central hole "the size you want" and have a new shaft made.

Cheers
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  #1418  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
blackchisel97,

.

I am green with envy I would love to build a SG like you are. I feel the same watching 10 coiler running on others benches. I couldn't find anyone locally to make a decent rotor for a while. After several builds based on large hard drives, pulleys and bike wheels I was finally able to save a $ to order this one. I have enough wire to wind 2 coils at most and enough transistors for such. Remaining 4 will have to wait a bit

The problem with your shaft is disappointing to say the least, all I can think of is maybe to use bearings that fit the rotor hole that have a smaller diameter central hole "the size you want" and have a new shaft made. You gave me an idea Leave those bearings, since the work very smooth and use a spacer tube in inner hole to accept thinner shaft. Still need a flange to be made.

Cheers
Thank you
Vtech
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  #1419  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:10 PM
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The problem with your shaft is disappointing to say the least, all I can think of is maybe to use bearings that fit the rotor hole that have a smaller diameter central hole "the size you want" and have a new shaft made. You gave me an idea Leave those bearings, since the work very smooth and use a spacer tube in inner hole to accept thinner shaft. Still need a flange to be made.
That will work too, good thinking, can't wait to see it spinning.

Cheers
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  #1420  
Old 11-07-2010, 08:41 AM
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StarShip Bedini

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
That will work too, good thinking, can't wait to see it spinning.

Cheers
Me too Got home for a few days only and too many ideas which were "brewing" in my head for the past few weeks. This was one of them - YouTube - Self Oscillating Starship Coil


Vtech
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  #1421  
Old 11-07-2010, 08:57 AM
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Oh my goodness that is incredible, is it "just a coil" though, it's magnificent. I think it's more than a coil it's almost working art. The wavefrom is neat. And it's charging that battery good and proper. I can't imagine how a thing like that is made, I have trouble winding four wires on a spool and keeping it neat.

Awesome.
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  #1422  
Old 11-07-2010, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
Oh my goodness that is incredible, is it "just a coil" though, it's magnificent. I think it's more than a coil it's almost working art. The wavefrom is neat. And it's charging that battery good and proper. I can't imagine how a thing like that is made, I have trouble winding four wires on a spool and keeping it neat.

Awesome.
Thank you for the kind comment Farmhand. Actually, it is very simple to wind compare to some coils I had to deal with. All you need is printable protractor from the net which you can glue to the piece of plywood and 1 pkg of wooden golf tees. Plastic ones will bend. You can't get it wrong since the pattern is very clear and if you go to the wrong pin you'll see immediately. I want to try another pattern tomorrow, trifilar and see if I can wind one wire -180deg. I wonder if this may allow me to pull something useful without other coil noticing


Vtech
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  #1423  
Old 11-09-2010, 12:59 AM
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Another Starship experiment

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Originally Posted by blackchisel97 View Post
I want to try another pattern tomorrow, trifilar and see if I can wind one wire -180deg. I wonder if this may allow me to pull something useful without other coil noticing
Well, I tried another Starship coil today. I made quad but only used 3 windings atm. in Litz fashion. I used the same circuit as per my last vid. except that I rectified output from the third, capped with 10 000uF and connected 12V/5W bulb to it. To my amazement input voltage remained the same but input current dropped from 1.45A to 1.36A. There was a slight difference in the waveform with additional ringing in the middle of horizontal part of "h". Spikes dropped from over 50v to about 46V. However, my amazement didn't last long when I discovered that charging became much slower. Oh well, nothing for free today I guess

Update: I used litzed coil in "normal" bifilar self oscillating configuration. Waveform is nicer than my other coil and spikes are at 55V. Circuit oscillates at 10kHz and is charging well.


Vtech
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Last edited by blackchisel97; 11-09-2010 at 02:26 AM. Reason: update
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  #1424  
Old 11-09-2010, 02:47 AM
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Nice, I wonder have you thought of placing an inductor "with core" into the middle of your starship and measuring the voltage across the ends of the winding ? I wonder what is going on in there. Mindboggling
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  #1425  
Old 11-09-2010, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
Nice, I wonder have you thought of placing an inductor "with core" into the middle of your starship and measuring the voltage across the ends of the winding ? I wonder what is going on in there. Mindboggling
Will try that. I'm curious too

Thanks
Vtech
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  #1426  
Old 11-09-2010, 03:27 AM
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Well, I tried another Starship coil today. I made quad but only used 3 windings atm. in Litz fashion. I used the same circuit as per my last vid. except that I rectified output from the third, capped with 10 000uF and connected 12V/5W bulb to it. To my amazement input voltage remained the same but input current dropped from 1.45A to 1.36A. There was a slight difference in the waveform with additional ringing in the middle of horizontal part of "h". Spikes dropped from over 50v to about 46V. However, my amazement didn't last long when I discovered that charging became much slower. Oh well, nothing for free today I guess

Update: I used litzed coil in "normal" bifilar self oscillating configuration. Waveform is nicer than my other coil and spikes are at 55V. Circuit oscillates at 10kHz and is charging well.
I've noticed I with four wire's I can use two parallel for power, one for trigger and use the other winding to power led's with unrectified raw radiant/some current if not tuned properly . And still get radiant from the charge output. It's happening in my Mini three pole vid.

Cheer's

Umm your input power would probably go up though, I guess.
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  #1427  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Farmhand View Post
I've noticed I with four wire's I can use two parallel for power, one for trigger and use the other winding to power led's with unrectified raw radiant/some current if not tuned properly . And still get radiant from the charge output. It's happening in my Mini three pole vid.

Cheer's

Umm your input power would probably go up though, I guess.
I can draw small amount. Also, charge a cap or two and discharge into batt. but cannot pull steady any more without consequences. I wonder, how I could wind this coil to have third winding 180deg from the other two. Would this work the same as winding cw and ccw on spool
I tried another coil with core inside the starship. Core affects slightly main coil but I measured 13.5V. When I try to pull from it my input current goes up. I'll try different inductors and different core material. I have something else in mind, maybe was already tried, maybe doesn't make any sense; 3 SC spaced 120deg and another round (ring) coil running through their cores. SC pulsed with certain freq. (I'm thinking of harmonics but may be something else instead, don't know). I just want to find out what this coil can do other than spin a magnet, act as an antenna and speaker. EMF is very strong but concentrated in the air core part only.
I'm not sure if further experiments should be posted in this thread. Don't want to hijack SSG into space.

Update; I placed 2" toroid JT over the top of SC but in vertical position. This doesn't seem to have any effect on circuit. LED is as bright as it can be but this is only 1 LED. Almost forgot to mention - there is no battery in JT.
I'll try to find some other ferrite and wind a coil which will fit the core.


Vtech
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Last edited by blackchisel97; 11-09-2010 at 06:30 AM. Reason: update
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  #1428  
Old 11-09-2010, 06:43 AM
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I was thinking on your three starship idea, i'm not sure but i may have read that something different happens when you turn one's current horazontal plane 90* to vertical, output stops not sure, some one in the JT exciter thread did it with two pancakes and the lights go out from memory. Seems whichever way you would put the loop it's not possible to keep three horazontal. Probably not important. You have some very good video's by the way.
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  #1429  
Old 11-11-2010, 02:02 AM
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I am running a simple home made cap pulser with my bedini sg kit running in self oscillation. It is a MJL 21194 identical to the one that is running the monopole oscillator. Triggered by an optocoupler. Here's the interesting thing. The transistor for the cap pulser is running warm to the touch, but the one driving the oscillator is not. I have not yet measured the amperage in/out but it is looking quite promising so far.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:54 AM
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Yes I do know what you mean I just got some new neons recently and WOW the difference is dramatic the new one's burn so bright it hurts, I can't wait to show someone. I got them cheaper by buying 30, I was taking them from old appliances to use, but I think they were made for 240 v and so they didn't protect some lower rated transistors at all. If there is one thing i will not skimp on in future it is the neons.

Regards
Farmhand,

This will be an expensive light show. You will damage the transistor!


John K.
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  #1431  
Old 11-12-2010, 01:56 AM
John_K John_K is offline
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I am running a simple home made cap pulser with my bedini sg kit running in self oscillation. It is a MJL 21194 identical to the one that is running the monopole oscillator. Triggered by an optocoupler. Here's the interesting thing. The transistor for the cap pulser is running warm to the touch, but the one driving the oscillator is not. I have not yet measured the amperage in/out but it is looking quite promising so far.
Redeagle,

You can heatsink the MJL, but an MJ15024(G) works better. Otherwise make a "Sziklai" pair with an MJL21193 & MJL21194.


John K.
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  #1432  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:19 AM
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Redeagle,

You can heatsink the MJL, but an MJ15024(G) works better. Otherwise make a "Sziklai" pair with an MJL21193 & MJL21194.


John K.
Lol, had to google that one John.

My mate has been using a rather large IGBT to discharge the cap. Its seems to be working rather well for him. By large I mean in the kilovolt range and 100 of amps. His caps are discharging @ over 250v (not into a battery) and total capacitance has exceeded 1000uF at times.

Ive found the MJ15024 to work well, or paralleled MJLs. John is right about the heat sink too, wack one in there for good measure.

Have to catch up again soon John on skype. Love to hear what you've been up too. The aussie "meet" while the Convention is on sounds like a good idea (you mentioned it in another thread).

Regards
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  #1433  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
This will be an expensive light show. You will damage the transistor!
Yes most likely will. It's ok though I have spare's now, it's just a pain to replace them. All the time, i'm forgetfull, and make funny errors, I reverse charged a big battery by accident the other day, it was a junker After it was charging for five minutes on a solid state energiser when I check the voltage and wonder why it says negative 6 volts. Still not sure I can fix it.

Cheers.
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  #1434  
Old 11-13-2010, 01:51 AM
redeagle redeagle is offline
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you could keep charging it in reverse. it would make a great conversation piece. On the bright side you are essentially reformatting the battery. If it survives it will help a long way towards conditioning it for this type of charge.
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  #1435  
Old 12-20-2010, 01:44 AM
Rubberband Rubberband is offline
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Hello Redeagle and all, I have built a Bedini SSG motor on a small scale with a small wheel and parts from Radio Shack, as well as a Bedini / Imohtep fan charger. Some other few small projects, now I am wanting to build a SG charging motor and have kind of figured what parts I will be ordering from Truth In Heart's website. What I would like if you guys will, is post me a list of the parts you guys know or feel would be best to order. I would like to place my order this next week, I do have a limited budget but still want to build with the best for it. Any help would be great and I will be doing the testings required to advance in these groups, Thanks,.. Wally
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  #1436  
Old 12-20-2010, 05:44 AM
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Charging motor

I probably can not help you. Could you be more specific about what you mean by an SG charging motor ? I thought all ssg were charging motors. As for Truth
in Heart, I just finished frying the two transistors on my 5 inch fan kit. So am
going to try the more basic Imhotep setup next. I also have the advanced SSG
kit with solid state, but am not going to attempt that one yet. I also want to make the basic SSG bicycle wheel first. I have separate parts for those. What I
would like to know is what is the SSG bipolar circuit option that potentialtec has. Can anyone answer these questions ?
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  #1437  
Old 12-20-2010, 06:24 AM
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@Rubberband I would suggest to either go with the simple monopole partial kit or the small 3 pole monopole kit. With the basic ssg kit you get a circuit board so that you can see how all of the parts fit together. but you have to design your own wheel and mount. I just received my three pole kit yesterday. i'm having a blast with it. it comes with everything but the batteries. both kits require the use of a soldering iron

You can find a lot of basic build pictures on the monopole 3 group on yahoo after seeing what the difference in performance is from the modified pc fan from radio shack and the 3 pole kit. I probably won't my doing much more with my fan. If i had a larger fan motor i might would consider it.

But if you feel that you have grasped the information well enough and would like something with more output, you might want to consider a multifilar coil. Keep in mind that John Bedini even recommends that one master the single coil monopole not only to understand the effect that the machine is producing, but what effect that it has on the batteries that you are charging. The key clue is that you are not charing the battery with the energy induced by the spinning of the magnets.

As far as parts go I would recommend the MJL21194 for the monopole whether you are using the standard circuit or one that has been modified to switch with a hall sensor. You can push it pretty hard as long as you take care of it.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:45 AM
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Redeagle, sorry for coming in between here. Could you tell me what the difference is between the MJL21194 and the MJL21193 are. The latter are the ones that i think I fried. I could not buy new ones locally so got two 2N3055
to use for the basic SSG instead.

FRC
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:04 AM
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Redeagle, sorry for coming in between here. Could you tell me what the difference is between the MJL21194 and the MJL21193 are.
FRC
'94 are NPN, '93 are PNP. If you put the pnp's in an ssg you would have likely fried your transistor first pulse !!
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRC
Redeagle, sorry for coming in between here. Could you tell me what the difference is between the MJL21194 and the MJL21193 are.
FRC

'94 are NPN, '93 are PNP. If you put the pnp's in an ssg you would have likely fried your transistor first pulse !!
faramog is right you need NPN transistors for a SSG. The 2N3055 is fine it will work good also TIP31c or TIP41c or even MJE3055 but they are only rated to 60volts so are easy to burn up. The others are tougher. Usally Most transisters have an opposite PNP complimentary transistor for pidgeon pairing.

I don't like 2N3055 transistors because it's hard to solder to the collector, I prefer the one's with three leads.

You can look up the datasheets on the different transisters and other componants diodes and such, in the link below by searching, clicking on the PDF icon to the lower right and then enlargen that. Just save the datasheets you want to refer back to. I've seached TIP41c for you.

TIP41C datasheet, TIP41C datasheets, TIP41C datenblatt, TIP41C manual, TIP41C data sheets, TIP41C pdf - ALLDATASHEET.COM

The datasheets can tell you all sorts of stuff from Current gain to trigger current, very usefull, you may not understand it all at first but it will come to you.

Cheers
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