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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #781  
Old 07-23-2008, 09:46 PM
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Here are some scans of some TRV data from Feb. 2005. By this time I was really starting to refine the unit and get some good results.

The TRV data is BLIND. Pretty interesting notes.

To learn more about TRV look at these links:

What is Technical Remote Viewing? Part I

What is Technical Remote Viewing Part II










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  #782  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:10 PM
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Thanks Kevin...

For the info.

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  #783  
Old 07-24-2008, 02:31 AM
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opposing magnetic field

That data clearly shows the "berserk" fighting against each other is the opposing magnetic fields of 2 magnets pushed together.
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  #784  
Old 07-24-2008, 03:14 AM
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Hi all,

Great info about the TRV.

I was just wondering, would a transistor with higher voltage ratings than the MJL21194 be an improvment? In a similar way to the improvment over using the 3055 type transistor, or would it mean that it simply wont burn out as easily.

I will be trying this out for myself, but if someone else has already done some testing I would be interested in the results.

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  #785  
Old 07-24-2008, 04:28 AM
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transitors that go negative

John said in the SG group that the mjl21194, 2n2222 and one other goes negative at about 1 amp input..meaning there is a range that the current draw drops backwards even with increasing voltage...that after that range, current starts to go back up again.
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  #786  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:16 AM
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bedini sg

how are you working out your c.o.p. figures, am runnung my sg at 11.5v off single battery.using normal bedini battery charging twin battery circuit, collecter runs thru bridge and the battery also runs 60w dc flouro iight.so it seems to be 11.5v x 200ma to run systemand 50vx150 ma out, plus 60w. this should be2.3 watts to run and 67.5 out.this is not exact due to loosing .05v after 4-5 hour session,what figures should i be aiming for, any help
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  #787  
Old 07-24-2008, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
John said in the SG group that the mjl21194, 2n2222 and one other goes negative at about 1 amp input..meaning there is a range that the current draw drops backwards even with increasing voltage...that after that range, current starts to go back up again.

Hi Aaron,

Not sure what that means in terms of charging performance. I'm still learning about how transistors and the like function.

Cheers,

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  #788  
Old 07-24-2008, 03:19 PM
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sweet spot

Steve,

It's like they can be run in a high efficiency sweet spot. John might have posted more details in the Bedini SG group that Sterling was asked to close...the msgs are still there.
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  #789  
Old 07-25-2008, 06:57 AM
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Hey! I just found 3 pics on my puter of the SG that I ran for thousands of hours.

This is the unit that I regularly produced 1.9 amps for every 1 amp used.







These pics were taken to send to Aaron back in 2005.

Important Note:
I 100% believe that the results I experienced were a direct benefit of certain PATHS modules.


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  #790  
Old 07-25-2008, 11:57 AM
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RE: Pictures..

Hi Kevin,

Thank you for your pictures... That looks simple enough, I also have used magnet wire for my connections because it is very flexible, and I figured that it has the same resistance as the coil.

I like how short your connections are.

I think I may attempt to replicate this. I am still not sure how you are combining the two circuits as I don't see the underside of the board, but looks very straightforward...

Ok you have a trifialar coil. so this is setup like the standard multicoil Bedni circuit? ( see attached )


Mart
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Last edited by theremart; 10-18-2008 at 10:05 PM.
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  #791  
Old 07-25-2008, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theremart View Post
Hi Kevin,

Thank you for your pictures... That looks simple enough, I also have used magnet wire for my connections because it is very flexible, and I figured that it has the same resistance as the coil.

I like how short your connections are.

I think I may attempt to replicate this. I am still not sure how you are combining the two circuits as I don't see the underside of the board, but looks very straightforward...

Ok you have a trifialar coil. so this is setup like the standard multicoil Bedni circuit? ( see attached )


Mart
I looked at the attached...greek to me. Aaron would be able to answer that better.

I first wrapped the coil with wire according to the original Bedini SG instructions, then when I went to the two circuits I had to start over and rewind it with TWO power wires (one for each circuit) and one trigger wire.

P.S. Looking at the pic of the coil it does not look very neat...however, I tried very hard to not only twist the wires evenly BEFORE winding them, but also to wind them evenly from right to left and then left to right, etc. I was told that this DOES make a Measurable difference.



Last edited by Kevin; 07-25-2008 at 09:39 PM.
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  #792  
Old 07-25-2008, 10:23 PM
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ok...

Twists...

I did not twist my wires on my main coil today I looked at my transistors on my circuit board and I have a board that should be just like your coil setup All I need to do is straighten the wires and shorten them as you have them setup.

On Erin's page he simply hooks his wires up to a drill and twist them all together at once.

Erwin's Work Shop.


I may redo my coil as well, I may take a measurement of my present setup and make one change at a time to test the change.
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  #793  
Old 07-27-2008, 03:05 AM
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I finally got zapped!!!

Hi All,

Well, today I had my first zapping from my enegizer. I guess that completes my initiation.

I was testing the voltage spikes on a small 400V cap (got it to about 230V) when I touched the transistor to check for heat. I forgot I was using the 3055 type. My finger bridged the output of the collector diode with the casing. Sent a nice little tingle through my upper body.

I guess it's just another sighn that there is a lot more going on than meets the eye.

Cheers and all the best.

Steve.
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  #794  
Old 07-27-2008, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by theremart View Post
Twists...

I did not twist my wires on my main coil today I looked at my transistors on my circuit board and I have a board that should be just like your coil setup All I need to do is straighten the wires and shorten them as you have them setup.

On Erin's page he simply hooks his wires up to a drill and twist them all together at once.

Erwin's Work Shop.


I may redo my coil as well, I may take a measurement of my present setup and make one change at a time to test the change.

Yeah, stretch all the wires way out in a long space...prolly have to go outside...then use a slow speed drill to twist them.

I was told early on that this was an important feature.

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  #795  
Old 07-27-2008, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dambit View Post
Hi All,

Well, today I had my first zapping from my enegizer. I guess that completes my initiation.

I was testing the voltage spikes on a small 400V cap (got it to about 230V) when I touched the transistor to check for heat. I forgot I was using the 3055 type. My finger bridged the output of the collector diode with the casing. Sent a nice little tingle through my upper body.

I guess it's just another sighn that there is a lot more going on than meets the eye.

Cheers and all the best.

Steve.


Yep, know what you mean. I never used a cap in any of my work, but the spikes that the basic SG produces give a good jolt!

I actually got experienced enough that I would sometimes grab hold during the tuning process to get a "feel" for how things were going.

That was before I got an oscilloscope!


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  #796  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:03 AM
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I started with 2n3055's. I do not have a scope so I charged a capacitor quickly (no load on SSG) to determine peak voltage. Do this process at your own risk as it can blow parts fast. With 2n3055's, I was getting 165 volts. With MJ15024's, I was getting 225 volts.

In normal operation, with brief load disconnects for whatever reason, the protection NE-2's would glow dull orange with 2n3055. With the MJ15024's, I would get bright pink. With three power coils using MJ15024's, I would get blinding violet.

I used the MJ15024's as the local electronic shop did not have MJ21194's.

I have found all John Bedini's gems worth following.

All my transistors have run cold. There must be negative resistance or some effect taking place.

I plan on using MJ21194's for my next build.

Possibly in a half H bridge with a MJ21193.
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  #797  
Old 07-28-2008, 11:12 AM
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Multiple output diodes???

Hi All,

I've been looking over various energizer schematics/diagrams, and I have noticed that many of them have multiple output diodes paralelled together and all going to the charging battery. Does this setup improve the performance of the enegizer?

P.S. Finally ordered the FEG book, so maybe that will privide some insight. I'm sure it will

Cheers,

Steve.
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  #798  
Old 07-28-2008, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dambit View Post
Hi All,

I've been looking over various energizer schematics/diagrams, and I have noticed that many of them have multiple output diodes paralelled together and all going to the charging battery. Does this setup improve the performance of the enegizer?

P.S. Finally ordered the FEG book, so maybe that will privide some insight. I'm sure it will

Cheers,

Steve.
dambit

Yesterday I was testing the real diode's function by using them in paralel, is amazing and obvious his real function, the real mathematics model of diodes shows clearly a drop voltage in the K-A junction so in the practical this limits the max power that our power coil able give us in Back EMF way. Normally this voltage drop is about 0.6 volts, but can be higher when the junction has no recovered of inversed voltage as Bedini's Osc case.

I have tested this diodes:

1N4001 x 4 in paralel: works great, capactitor charged very fast.

1N5404: voltage drop very high, in paralel is far away from 1N4001

1N5408: equal to 5404. very big can be difficult for a pcb.

1N4148: it's high recovery, but voltage drop......

The 1N4001 x 4 in paralel, it's highly necessary in Bedini Osc, when you put diodes in paralel voltage drop appearentely get to hide.

The diode connected Base-Emisor, normally 1N914 can be replaced by 1N4148 because is high recovery and is possible get higher RPM's. I had no tested yet.
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  #799  
Old 08-08-2008, 03:06 PM
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My Bedini Reloaded with Two Rotors :D

YouTube - Dual Rotor fly wheel Bedini SG

More Radiant Energy, More Mechanical torque (a little)
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Old 08-11-2008, 12:04 AM
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update on my enegizer.

Hi All,

I finally have modified my enegizer. I have added a third coil to the unit (1 trigger, 4 power, 980ish turns). I have used multiple output diodes on each transistor.
I have noticed a large difference is charging performance. With only the two origional coils, I could barely charge my 57 Ah car battery. Now I drain it 10% and it charges back in ony a few hours. It was given to me for free because it was dead, and I am slowly getting longer use from it.

Cheers,

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Last edited by dambit; 05-28-2009 at 11:52 AM.
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  #801  
Old 08-12-2008, 10:14 AM
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Twin transistor setup

Hi there, here is a photo of my twin transistor SSG energizer ,quad filler 2@22awg 4.6 ohms 2@24awg 7.6 ohms(ohms for each wire) 530 turns together on 1 inch tie wire core,mjl21194 transistors,100ohm resistor + 1k trim pot for each transistor ,8 ferrite magnets,multiple cd's glued together on a harddrive bearing,90v neos ,in5408 diodes ,theres also a little charging dynamo for 9v batteries and load tests(made from car relay coils and washermachine solinoids. The coil at the time had one extra thick wire wrapped around aswell (some spare wire of a transformer)just for playing around cap pulsing at the time i was learning things.This is one of the first SSG energizers ive made and i still use it for experimenting with.With trim pots you can experiment at large variations to judge different things.Ive used all types of voltages up to 24v with full trim pot adjustments with nothing getting hot(except the core when you push it (eddy currents) with max input amps). 100ma to around one amp is its input range at 12v .It will charge batteries at a good rate of the collector depending on input amps to the SSG.
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  #802  
Old 08-14-2008, 01:49 AM
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Bedini SG - Need an answer

Can anyone help me?

I've done everything I know to do with my setup and it still won't charge a battery properly. The best happens with an old discarded battery with less than six volts in it. The battery will charge to 6 - 6.5V but stops there and starts to discharge the primary battery.......seriously!

I've even started with a fairly new battery with a minumum safe charge on it, 12.20v and watched it discharge to 10.5V in a couple hours. The primary will also discharge below the safe level of 11.89V.

I've replaced every part, one by one, with NO improvement. I've swapped coils with very slight changes in the above performance. I've even rebuilt the entire circuit with different parts! Still no effect.

So, the question is; What the hell is going on here?

I hope SOMEBODY can tell me what is wrong here.

Warren
..
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  #803  
Old 08-14-2008, 06:15 AM
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Hi mrbreau

What size are your batteries and what is your amp draw?
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  #804  
Old 08-14-2008, 09:35 AM
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thought this thread might inspire a lol my ssg ,neo magnets standard bedini cuircuit ,wheel barrow wheel and most importantantely,a commom heat sink for the 2 21194,s and the 2x 200 ohm pots. get the link. have been running it with current going to the pots and both trans collectors,funny thing is,must have been making a inductive load thru pots or something cause now ive fixed problem cant get as good results. , before input 500ma ,output close to 500ma now input 7 to 800ma out put ,3 to 400 ma.weird .seems i didnt know that that current flows from collector to trans mounting bracket .does anyone have any ideas about wots happened, cheers
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:56 PM
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It doesn't matter

Thanks for the reply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sephiroth View Post
Hi mrbreau

What size are your batteries and what is your amp draw?
The battery size and configuration doesn't seem to matter. Neither does it matter what coils I use or how they are wound. For example; Yesterday I hacked a computer fan and turned it on...........finally. And odd waveform appeared but the very beginning of the waveform is the same, it looks like an *eagles beak* starting from the underside as though no spike was present.

I now realize that there isn't much to go on from my description but THAT IS ALL I HAVE TO GO ON TOO.

BTW; The scope is connected to both ends of the power coil. Then again, under some tutelage I've connected the probes in various places with results being the same except for WHERE on the scope they appeared.

Incidentally, on YouTube I have four videos in which this problem can be seen. Look for *mrbreau.*

Thanks again.
Warren
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tai61 View Post
thought this thread might inspire a lol my ssg ,neo magnets standard bedini cuircuit ,wheel barrow wheel and most importantantely,a commom heat sink for the 2 21194,s and the 2x 200 ohm pots. get the link. have been running it with current going to the pots and both trans collectors,funny thing is,must have been making a inductive load thru pots or something cause now ive fixed problem cant get as good results. , before input 500ma ,output close to 500ma now input 7 to 800ma out put ,3 to 400 ma.weird .seems i didnt know that that current flows from collector to trans mounting bracket .does anyone have any ideas about wots happened, cheers

Tai, the back of the MLJ transistors is actually a common connection with the collector. You could solder the power wire and output diode to the back if you really wanted to and it would still work. So if you have two transistors connected to a common CONDUCTIVE heat sink then you are essentially connecting both collectors together. Try isolating each tranny from each other, either with mica insulators or separate heatsinks. I am assuming your second transistor is hooked up as a slave winding?

By the way, you want the least amount of current going to the battery as possible. My best charger at the moment has 1amp input, and less than 150ma output.
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  #807  
Old 08-14-2008, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbreau View Post
Can anyone help me?

I've done everything I know to do with my setup and it still won't charge a battery properly. The best happens with an old discarded battery with less than six volts in it. The battery will charge to 6 - 6.5V but stops there and starts to discharge the primary battery.......seriously!

I've even started with a fairly new battery with a minumum safe charge on it, 12.20v and watched it discharge to 10.5V in a couple hours. The primary will also discharge below the safe level of 11.89V.

I've replaced every part, one by one, with NO improvement. I've swapped coils with very slight changes in the above performance. I've even rebuilt the entire circuit with different parts! Still no effect.

So, the question is; What the hell is going on here?

I hope SOMEBODY can tell me what is wrong here.

Warren
..

I am not sure what your problem is Warren?

The primary battery will always discharge in SG configuration, the only way around that is with self runner experimentation. If your charging battery is DISCHARGING while the circuit is running then there is likely a wrong connection somewhere. Please note I have seen old/damaged batteries initially charge on the back end only to drop later, this is normal, but a brand new battery shouldnt do this. I cant offer you too much more, unless you can tell me exactly what it is you are trying to fix? Are you saying your secondary battery doesnt charge at all?
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  #808  
Old 08-14-2008, 11:28 PM
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My first Bedini SG

Hello everybody !

It's the first time I post on the Renewable Energy forum.

Last night, I've finished assembling my first Bedini SG and I hooked up a brand new 100 Ah deep cycle battery (I have 3 like this one) on the front end and hooked up a dead car battery for charging. It had 7.86 Volts left, now it reads 12.12 V. This is a battery with a built-in "green eye" hydrometer and it's still dark.

This morning, I've hooked up a crapier battery to charge that was sitting outside for more than three years (3 winters with -20 -30 temperatures), it was reading 2.70 V ! I hooked it up with a second 1N5408 diode, it rised to 14.4 V then went back to 11 V or so, now it reads 11.58 V.

I use the SSG circuit with a 2N3055 and everything runs cool without heatsink. My coil is a bifilar 760 wounds, 315 feet, 20AWG twisted together with a copper coated soldering rods core. The rotor is a Sony reel-to-reel tape spindle aluminium flywheel 4 inches in diameter with 5 X 3 stacked round 1 inch diameter 5/32 inch thick ceramic magnets. The tape spindle serves as a shaft and is mounted vertically on 2 bearing assemblies. The current drawing is 320 - 330 mA.

The drive battery was reading 12.54 V when I hooked it up and it now reads 12.36 V. The rotor spins at 644 RPM. I've put a piece of masking tape that slaped the coil each rotor turn and synchronised that sound by ear with a software metronome. I don't have a scope but I'm pretty sure this thing is charging dead batteries.

I'm waiting for some larger ceramic bloc magnets to build a bicycle wheel rotor with multiple coils. I'd like to use a 1000 Watts inverter with the deep cycle batteries. Here are some poor quality pics (my camera flash doesn't work anymore) of my first project. The assembly is quite messy, I just couldn't wait anymore to see this motor working...

I will post more details as they will come.

Keep on sharing open source engineering !

Druide
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  #809  
Old 08-15-2008, 12:54 AM
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Paralleling diodes

Does paralelling diodes means paralelling all the anodes and all the cathodes together ? In my setup, I've connected the anodes of 2 1N5408 to the collector of the 2N3055 and each cathode to each positive charging battery post. It seems to work OK. Is it the best way ?

Thanks

Druide
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Druide View Post
Does paralelling diodes means paralelling all the anodes and all the cathodes together ? In my setup, I've connected the anodes of 2 1N5408 to the collector of the 2N3055 and each cathode to each positive charging battery post. It seems to work OK. Is it the best way ?

Thanks

Druide

The advantages of that is each battery will charge independently. when you mix two batteries together they will try to equalize charge. so if both of them are in parallel on may be draining to get the other one up to full charge. So Bedini has recommended that you do what you have stated.

See

Directory:Bedini SG:Coachingec 21 '04 - PESWiki


For myself I don't use the diodes in my battery swapper because I want the other batteries to equalize the drained battery to the other then charge all of the batteries at the level eventually they do level out. But then again, I am not Bedini, and my batteries don't charge as well as his does

Mart
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