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John Bedini Discussion threads relating to John Bedini. Bedini SG, Bedini SSG, Crystal Batteries, etc...

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  #1  
Old 05-20-2008, 01:15 AM
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Bedini SSG Machines

Hi Rickoff,

The long cylinder rotor was just another test to compare different features. Out of that, the 6 coiler and the 12 coiler, the 12 coiler is the optimum one to make.

I was at John's shop quite a bit off and on when he was making those. It was when Peter was working with John several years back.

Have you seen John's posts where he discusses what degree he wants the triggering to happen? I think just about all the specs on magnet spacing, etc... can be extrapolated from it.

You will get more output with more coils and multiwinds. 2 coils will not necessarily be twice as much as 1 coil, but could be more.

Aaron



"
In the above post, and based upon 3/4" magnet width, the 2.4" spacing between magnets of the 6 coil radial arrangement would be equal to a spacing of 3.2 times the magnet width, which falls at the low end of the optimal spacing range. The 3.96" spacing of the 4 radial coil (x3) unit increases the spacing to about 5.3 times the magnet width, which is at the high end of the optimal spacing range, from what I understand. It seems reasonable to assume that John would not have gone ahead with the increased spacing design for the 12 coil unit unless he felt certain that the increased spacing would result in greater efficiency. Do you know if the results actually proved the assumption as correct? I don't know if this is the right place to be discussing the subject at hand, and you are more than welcome to move (or suggest a move) of this thread to a different location within the forums. Thanks

Thanks for the nice welcome, Aaron. Your posts have been of special interest to me, as I find that you are very knowledgeable on the subject of Bedini motors. I was just looking at some great construction photos at New Page 2
and a few questions come to mind that perhaps you can shed some light upon. The last photo in this series shows a completed 6 coil unit, which I assume was the forerunner test design for the 12 coil unit shown at the left side of the workbench in photo #2. I am wondering why it was decided to reduce the number of coils, radially, from 6 to 4 on the 12 coil model. Was that done to increase the circumferal spacing of the magnets from 2.4" to 3.96", which would appear to be in the optimal range? (I am assuming the magnets are 3/4" width on both models, and that the the number of coils matches the number of magnet positions in the rotor of both models.)
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:41 AM
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Hi Aaron,

Thanks for your reply. I assumed that the 12 coil unit was the optimal one, but just wasn't sure why he went to 4 coils radially rather than 6, as in the forerunner. Can you provide a link to the posts by John, regarding the triggering, that you are referring to? Thanks for steering me in the right direction. I can see, in the photos, that each coil has four windings to make up the 48 charging circuits.

Thanks for your assistance, Rickoff
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Last edited by rickoff; 06-07-2008 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:50 AM
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The Special Super-Pole Configuration

Aaron,

Have you shared the special super-pole configuration for SSG with John Bedini? I want to build a new SSG so I would like to know If you still recommend using the special super-pole configuration?
Thanks!

Elias
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:49 PM
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timing comments by Bedini

Hi Rickoff,

It was in the yahoo groups. The Bedini SG one that Sterling shut down recently. Look in the last 1-2 months of messages posted. You can search by John Bedini to see which ones he posted himself.

It is all about the timing.

The group was continued in this new group:
Monopolemotor : MonopoleMotor
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:58 PM
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superpole comment

Hi Elias,

I'm not sure if John knows or not. I have to go out to his shop to talk with him on some other things and will ask him.

Here is what I know:

1. Kevin achieved incredible charging in his batteries. For every amphour expended from the input battery, he was able to draw 2 amp hours out of the battery being charged. It was a real charge, BK batt capacity analyzers, etc... were used and it was not only there, it powered loads.

2. The other superpole configuration was used PLUS an earth rod from ground through diode to + of battery being charged...around the earth rod was a bunch of potash added + a LOT of conditioning charging, draining...non stop DAILY for MONTHS. There was virtually no letup on the charge/discharge cycles.

I do not know 100% how the extra came about. I understand it can be done with proper charging/discharging over and over non-stop. But how much was from the magnet configuration and how much from the earth rod? I don't know.

It is possible with the regular Bedini superpole configuration + the earth rod setup that maybe there would be 3-4 times as much coming out.

The scalar potentials from the magnets are not work in themselves but when mixing several of these potentials together, they form real current in the charging batteries and that real current is work that doesn't come from the circuit.
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:04 PM
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update

--------------------------------------
update 5/22/08

Thanks for your help at steering me in the right direction, Aaron. I did find information about timing at the original SG forum site, and also found a nice schematic showing a 12-coil circuit using a single trigger ( see http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sMI1SJ_...%20Machine.jpg ), so most of my questions are now answered. Thanks again, Rickoff
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:08 PM
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another ssg pic link?

You're welcome Rickoff! Do you have another link for that pic? The one you posted doesn't come up for me.
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Old 05-23-2008, 06:44 AM
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How to get there from here...........

Hi Aaron,

The link I provided does work - I just tried it - but you must be signed in to Yahoo groups first. Go to Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums & communities and make sure you're signed in, then click the link I posted. It looks a bit blurry on my 19" diagonal widescreen monitor, and it won't print well either, so I copied it and loaded it into Adobe Photoshop and resized it for a landscape 11.5" page in jpg format, and I can now view or print out the full diagram much cleaner. Here's an attachment of same: Mono_Pole Multi-Coil Machine schematic.jpg

To save the jpg image to your computer in best quality, right-click the thumbnail image and choose "Save Target As."

Rickoff
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:27 PM
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Cylindrical Bedini Machine Rotor

After recently joining the energetic forums, I was reading through the "Bedini Schoolgirl" thread (http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...choolgirl.html ) and found a post by Kevin (dated 8-12-2007) in which he stated that he would be building an eight coil machine with 32 circuits to power his home. This greatly interested me, as energy independence is my goal. I wrote to Kevin, and later had a phone conversation with him which was very interesting and informative. Kevin said that his concept was to use a 3 foot length of 6 inch diameter PVC pipe, with endcaps, for the rotor, and that the rotor would be mounted on a 1/2" diameter through-shaft with bearings in the endcaps. He had already purchased the above named parts some months ago, but hadn't had time to work out the actual construction methods he would employ. In thinking about the construction mechanics, I began wondering if a through-shaft would be suitable for a 36" length cylinder. My thought was that the shaft would probably tend to wobble slightly at its center, causing vibrations. Also, I wondered if a steel through-shaft would interact with the rotor magnets in either a positive or detrimental way. Aaron - if you are reading this perhaps you could share your thoughts in that regard, and also anything you might remember about Kevin's "tube" concept. I hope that Kevin will also jump in here with his thoughts. Anyways, if it would be detrimental to use a common steel shaft, then certainly a non-magnetic stainless steel shaft could be used. In beginning a design concept for my own cylindrical rotor, I decided that I would use a 1" diameter x 6" long stainless keyed shaft at each end of the rotor. Each shaft would be attached to the rotor's end caps using a flanged shaft collar, and would be supported by two flanged bearings mounted on upright supports made from polycarbonate cutting board material. Incidentally, I found a great deal on the flanged bearings at this website: 1" Mounted Bearing UCF205-16 + Square Flanged Cast Housing:Ball Bearings:VXB As you can see, the bearings are heavy duty and the 4 bolt flange comes with a grease fitting. A bearing insert with shaft-locking set screws is a nice feature for shaft adjustments and added stability. And all for just $9.95!! I found some quality stainless shafting at mcmaster.com, and I decided on the 1" shaft because I want to mount a hefty flywheel beween the bearings on at least one end of the unit. I made a preliminary drawing of the attachment concept and posted it at the following site: Bedini Tube style SSG - Windows Live SkyDrive Please note that this is just a preliminary concept sketch made freehand in MS Paint, and nothing is actually drawn to scale. I also did not attempt to show the fastening details, but all will be accomplished using 1/4 - 20 stainless steel capscrews. I also posted a picture, at the above link, of an object that I may use for my rotor. It is a rigid hexagonally shaped tube with one stationary endcap, and another endcap that is spiral threaded for easy removal. It measures 39" overall length, and 6 3/4" in diameter from flat #1 to flat #5 of the octagon. I found 3 of these at the local recycling center, and it instantly popped into my head that they might make great rotors, so I took them home - for free! They are very tough. I tried standing on the center of one and it had no give whatsoever. They are constructed so as to be filled with about 75 pounds of sand, and placed in the bed of a pickup truck for improved traction during winter driving - a much better idea than the plastic bags most folks have been using, including myself. I don't know who manufactures these, as there are no identifiable markings on them. I like the idea of the flat octagonal surfaces, as it simplifies magnet mounting and will also reduce air drag caused by magnet protrusion along the perimeter when compared to mounting on a round tube. My first step will be to determine if the octagonal rotor will rotate precisely enough so that runout will not be a problem. If it checks out okay, I will attach it to my shaft assemblies and mount all of that on a firm baseboard made of 12" x 48" melamine shelving stock. My plan would be to build a 12 coil, 48 circuit Bedini machine having 3 sets of 4-coils radially placed. This configuration would be similar to John Bedini's 12 coil machine, as can be seen in a video clip at the following site: YouTube - 20 Mono-Pole Bedini Motor / Pulse Engine The major difference is that he used a precision machined aluminum rotor, which would be nice to have, but that would prove very costly. My concept, expanding on Kevin's idea, is to construct an affordable and easily duplicated machine. As I said earlier in this post, I hope that Aaron and Kevin will add their thoughts to this concept thread, and of course everyone is welcome to ask questions or make suggestions. Anyone interested?

Best regards to all, Rickoff
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Old 05-30-2008, 09:08 PM
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RE: Rotor machine verse Solid state.

I also have been torn between building a big machine and just building a heafty solid state device. I have bought some 300 V transtistors and I was considering going 48V to my bedini. It seems so much energy is lost turning the wheel that if we used a solid state device we would be much further ahead in the game.

I think I will check out solid state because it seems one could get a more effective system using it.

I am very open to suggestions.

Mart
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Old 05-31-2008, 12:19 AM
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mart,

I think you're right... alot of the energy is "used" by the rotor, though I believe the transfer of electrical to mechanical in this system will yeild the highest COP when the charging effect and mechanical work are taken into account...
However, I believe you are right again, that you will achieve a higher charging COP with a solid state device and I look forward to any results you care to share!
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Old 05-31-2008, 04:08 AM
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Mart,

If the intent is to solely charge large batteries then a solidstate device is probabaly preferable, not to mention easier to store/move. If you intend to pursue mechanical power then perhaps you should look further. I happen to think that power is not lost through the rotor, limited perhaps, but not dissapated or spent. The rotor is designed to captialise on the electromagnetic occurence that occurs, not to mention time the device as well.

I think you may be surprised what a bit of gearing and a heavy flywheel running at 48volt, 3000rpm can do
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:35 AM
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Reply to Mart and Seph

Thanks for your comments, folks. Mart, I am sure you are right about a solid state device, such as a variation on the "Tesla Switch," being most efficient for charging batteries, but I do have my reasons for wanting to build this mechanical device. As Seph points out, this 12 coil/48 ciruit Bedini machine will have a better overall COP than the solid state device when the mechanical energy is factored in. My plan is to utilize that rotational energy by using a magnetic coupling hub placed at the end of the shaft, as in my drawing. Once the machine is up to running speed, I can then slide into place (on a track) a small hydrosonic pump to be rotated by the magnetic coupling. The hydrosonic pump will maintain the water inside a 50 gallon insulated storage tank at 180 degrees, and a loop will be taken from the tank to circulate hot water through the hot water heating system's boiler heat exchanger. Thus, whenever either of my heating system's two thermostats calls for heat, the hot water coursing through the heat exchanger will instantly be pumped where needed by one of two zone valves, and water beiing pumped out of the heat exchanger will instantly be replaced with 180 degree water. That, of course, means that I will no longer have to burn any more fuel oil to heat my home or my domestic hot water (except perhaps during sub-zero temperature extremes). And at times when hot water production is not essential, I can tap the rotational output of my machine to drive workshop equipment, a water pump, an alternator, or whatever. There is no need to consider the rotational mechanical energy of the machine as "lost energy" unless you have no plan for utilizing it, right? I believe that the flywheel, as shown in my drawing, is an important addition if one wants to make best use of mechanical energy. Similar to the idea utilized by James Watson in his Bedini machine. It will tend to keep the machine rotating at a fairly constant speed while providing torque to smooth and balance the work load. The flywheel is also a plus if you want to use switching to pulse charges back into the supply battery bank, which I plan to do. I have a very positive outlook on this project, as you can probably surmise. Even though you may be going in a different direction, you might just peek in here every now and then to see how things are moving along. Right now I am waiting for my shafts and bearings to arrive, but will be posting some pictures as construction begins. Best wishes to you in your pursuits of free energy.

Rickoff
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:49 AM
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Re: Cop >1

I have chased the mechanical energy and I have found it is a VERY high hill to climb for someone who does not have a machine shop. Has anyone here achieved COP >1? I think Kevin has, and Aaron has.

I have tried the magnet configuration as shown "superpole" and have failed to get better results with it. ( Probably my lack of knowledge of how to do it properly.) I also did not receive better results with a ground to the charging battery. In some of the Bedini circuits I have found the ground at a different place than the charging batter ( on Erins page ) this puzzled me.

My thoughts go as follows.... Use a battery swapper with solid state device to charge the batteries.

I do look with great interest to those who have broken this barrier. I have ordered Bedini's book, and the video on magnets. I do hope to improve my methods.

The method you are suggesting sounds to me like you guys are on the right track, you are using heavy machined bearings, I checked into these for wind mills as they have the same problems as we do. Some of the bearings they use are 1. hubs from pull behind trailers. 2. bearings from computer chairs. 3. bearings from washing machines. All of these are very heavy duty and seem like an option. The bearing you listed looks very very nice, if your system works with this I would consider upgrading to ceramic bearings. I have found that duralube is an AWESOME lubricant, which you might consider to impove the bearings as they are.

If the COP is easily found in the batteries, my thought is to stop there. Use the solid state charger to charge batteries, then milk the batteries for energy, then repeat. The trouble is, I don't know what waveform is optimal, I don't know what circuit to consider for high voltages, ( I may start with a simple solid state design till I get the hang of it, then move up ) it seems to me that I could use multiple solid state devices small ones to do the job a large one and would be safer.

I am curious how did you come up with the number of 180 deg for your water?


Also mentioned was a tesla coil... on the solid state, what is the most effective solid state device out there that you guys have tested? Thanks!
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:07 PM
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RE: flywheel

Quote:
Originally Posted by ren View Post
Mart,

If the intent is to solely charge large batteries then a solidstate device is probabaly preferable, not to mention easier to store/move. If you intend to pursue mechanical power then perhaps you should look further. I happen to think that power is not lost through the rotor, limited perhaps, but not dissapated or spent. The rotor is designed to captialise on the electromagnetic occurence that occurs, not to mention time the device as well.

I think you may be surprised what a bit of gearing and a heavy flywheel running at 48volt, 3000rpm can do
Hey, I am open to suggestions, have you achieved this?

I am open to models that I can reproduce that have a proven cop >1.
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Old 05-31-2008, 07:17 PM
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ground rods

With the ground rod, the one that we have put to the + on the charging battery isn't really a "ground" since it has a diode so the positive potential moves from the rod to the charging battery.

On some of John's diagrams, he shows a real earth ground...neg of input battery to a literal earth ground.
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Old 06-01-2008, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
With the ground rod, the one that we have put to the + on the charging battery isn't really a "ground" since it has a diode so the positive potential moves from the rod to the charging battery.

On some of John's diagrams, he shows a real earth ground...neg of input battery to a literal earth ground.
Very intertesting Aaron,
can i use the water pipes to my house at a ground and could i also use this as a positive potential rod?
Am i going down the wrong road but if some how you can make the positive potential oscillate would this increase the potential?
Been working on a fan bedini motor and im i crazy but i can feel it hear it wahtever when its oscillating i can really tune in to it.is this just or anyone else do this?
so many queastion so little time.
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Old 06-01-2008, 01:51 AM
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RE: ground.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
With the ground rod, the one that we have put to the + on the charging battery isn't really a "ground" since it has a diode so the positive potential moves from the rod to the charging battery.

On some of John's diagrams, he shows a real earth ground...neg of input battery to a literal earth ground.
Good point Aaron yours is a different method.

I understand people have different results with this at different locations with the ground and diode...
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Old 06-01-2008, 02:37 AM
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Wow

Hi Guys,


You guys have got to try putting a small universal motor on the back end of an SSG.I tried this with a hoover vacuum motor and talk about ZOOM had to be many thousand rpms pulling just under 1.2 amps & my cap reads a high of 16 volts at the back end of SSG .

P.S. I found out this setup doesnt work without my bifilar coil on the trigger side of the circuit.
-Gary
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:34 AM
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Earth Rods

You could use water pipes probably as the regular ground.

I use galvanized steel rod for the ground rod negative for grounding the SG circuit to the earth...(no diode at all, just like John's schematics). Then use copper for the rod with the diode. Now you have an earth battery. You can use plates or rods or any other method. If multi-cell, use the neg as the earth ground negative and use the positive terminal of the earth battery as the connection with diode to charging battery +. This is the first time I ever described this out in the open.
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Old 06-02-2008, 08:21 AM
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Reply to Mart

Hi Mart,

Regarding your question as to why I chose 180 degrees as the temperature for water storage in the 50 gallon tank, and for circulating through my boiler's heat exchanger - the answer is really quite simple. My boiler's control unit is set for a burner cutoff when the boiler's water temperature reaches 180 F degrees. As the burner shuts off, the circulator pump begins pumping the hot water through each of the zone valves that have a thermostat calling for heat. When the temperature of the water in the boiler reaches 155 degrees, the circulator pump shuts off and the oil burner kicks in to regenerate hot water for another cycle. So you see, if my hydrosonic pump maintains the storage water at 180 degrees then my oil burner will never run. Even if domestic hot water use (for showering, laundry, dishwasher) drops the supply temperature by 24 degrees, the burner will not start. In actual practice, I may heat the storage water to as much as 200 degrees and/or may use a 100 gallon storage tank. That all depends upon the output I am actually able to realize from the hydrosonic pump.

As to your questions about earth rods, Aaron is right on the money with what he is saying and has a lot of knowledge and experience with this. In simple terms, Nature has given us a huge capacitor with unlimited potential. The ionospere is the positive "plate" of the capacitor, the earth is the negative plate, and our atmosphere is the electric field, or storage area of the capacitor's charge. Benjamin Franklin understood this electric field after his 1752 kite experiments, some 67 years before Nikola Tesla was born. And Tesla was fully aware of the earth/atmosphere/ionosphere capacitive relationship. As Aaron can tell you, a 12 volt automobile battery can be fully charged within 48 hours simply by connecting the battery between a suitable earth ground point and a 200 foot atmosheric run of common insulated TV antenna wire. How's that for a low cost battery charger? So you see, all the things we are talking about can be summed together to give us a super-efficient system that can fulfill all our energy requirements. If you want to add in a solid state battery charger, or go 100% solid state, there is plenty of great information given in the energetic forum threads for doing just that. Also check out http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter5.pdf and start reading at the bottom of page 5. Several Tesla Switch circuits and modifications are shown and explained. And let's not forget the 1984 Ronald Brandt/John Bedini "cigar box" Tesla Switch device, which was probably the first successful demonstration of the Tesla Switch concept.

I think that the most important factor in determining where one should start, in choosing the device or devices that are most logical for our particular energy system, is the end results that we want to achieve. And whatever the decision, this is a great place to find people who have the knowledge, experience, and willingness to help us realize our goals. We all need to share what we know, and what we learn, with all who earnestly seek this knowledge. Times are tough, and getting worse. I just hope that I can make a positive contribution here in return for the kind and generous help that has been given to me. Thank you so much.

Rickoff
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Old 06-02-2008, 12:19 PM
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A couple of things about earth rods/grounds. They work for both solid state machines and mechanical. I'm not really sure but in radio there is an effect when you tune one radio then tune another the signal gets stronger for both radios. I use the radio analogy alot since these devices to me seem to be nothing more than recievers of cosmic energy. If you think about Moray and Coler as well as Tesla's method of conversion you see that reception is common.
I'm working on a solid state version based on the Tesla switch, Scalar wave battery charger. Frequency is everything at this point. The faster I go the better the effect. I will post my schematics if anyone is interested.
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Old 06-02-2008, 05:57 PM
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Reply to Chip Shorter

Yes, by all means post your schematics and functional details. I have seen Bedini's circuit diagrams for his Scalar Wave Battery charger and Scalar Wave Controller, and they look very good. I am guessing that is what you started from. It would be very interesting, though, to see the actual components, layout, and operational notes for your particular setup. I for one would love to add this type of circuit to my overall system, and use a Lindemann Rotary Attraction Motor as the load placed across it. Thanks so much for offering your contribution to the effort.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:22 PM
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Reply to Gmeat

Funny that you should mention the vacuum cleaner motor. I just replaced the motor last week in an older Eureka vacuum that I use at my cottage, because the bearings were shot. A new motor cost me $65 at the local vac shop, which is much less than the cost of a new vacuum cleaner. I tested the motor before assembling it in the Eureka vac, and as you say - it really revs up! It made me think that those high revs could certainly prove useful when combined with an SSG to perhaps drive a tesla turbine, or some other high speed device. What are your thoughts as to possible uses that you intend to explore? Could you show us a picture, or diagram, of the actual hookup you used with your SSG? That would be great.

Thanks for your suggestion, Rickoff
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:15 PM
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double radio synergy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip Shorter View Post
there is an effect when you tune one radio then tune another the signal gets stronger for both radios.
This is a very profound concept. Please elaborate if you don't mind.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:43 AM
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RE: Info

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Originally Posted by rickoff View Post
Hi Mart,

Regarding your question as to why I chose 180 degrees as the temperature for water storage in the 50 gallon tank, and for circulating through my boiler's heat exchanger - the answer is really quite simple. My boiler's control unit is set for a burner cutoff when the boiler's water temperature reaches 180 F degrees. As the burner shuts off, the circulator pump begins pumping the hot water through each of the zone valves that have a thermostat calling for heat. When the temperature of the water in the boiler reaches 155 degrees, the circulator pump shuts off and the oil burner kicks in to regenerate hot water for another cycle. So you see, if my hydrosonic pump maintains the storage water at 180 degrees then my oil burner will never run. Even if domestic hot water use (for showering, laundry, dishwasher) drops the supply temperature by 24 degrees, the burner will not start. In actual practice, I may heat the storage water to as much as 200 degrees and/or may use a 100 gallon storage tank. That all depends upon the output I am actually able to realize from the hydrosonic pump.

As to your questions about earth rods, Aaron is right on the money with what he is saying and has a lot of knowledge and experience with this. In simple terms, Nature has given us a huge capacitor with unlimited potential. The ionospere is the positive "plate" of the capacitor, the earth is the negative plate, and our atmosphere is the electric field, or storage area of the capacitor's charge. Benjamin Franklin understood this electric field after his 1752 kite experiments, some 67 years before Nikola Tesla was born. And Tesla was fully aware of the earth/atmosphere/ionosphere capacitive relationship. As Aaron can tell you, a 12 volt automobile battery can be fully charged within 48 hours simply by connecting the battery between a suitable earth ground point and a 200 foot atmosheric run of common insulated TV antenna wire. How's that for a low cost battery charger? So you see, all the things we are talking about can be summed together to give us a super-efficient system that can fulfill all our energy requirements. If you want to add in a solid state battery charger, or go 100% solid state, there is plenty of great information given in the energetic forum threads for doing just that. Also check out http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter5.pdf and start reading at the bottom of page 5. Several Tesla Switch circuits and modifications are shown and explained. And let's not forget the 1984 Ronald Brandt/John Bedini "cigar box" Tesla Switch device, which was probably the first successful demonstration of the Tesla Switch concept.

I think that the most important factor in determining where one should start, in choosing the device or devices that are most logical for our particular energy system, is the end results that we want to achieve. And whatever the decision, this is a great place to find people who have the knowledge, experience, and willingness to help us realize our goals. We all need to share what we know, and what we learn, with all who earnestly seek this knowledge. Times are tough, and getting worse. I just hope that I can make a positive contribution here in return for the kind and generous help that has been given to me. Thank you so much.

Rickoff
It sounds like you have done your homework!!

I have looked at the page you referenced, was the first time I saw the "Tesla switch". impressive stuff there.

I have started this journey first buy making a pulse motor, then when I did a google search I found that Bedini had created one, that has got me hooked.

I have a biography of Benjamin Franklin, and I see that Bedini mentions his works as well.

You say that in 48 hours a battery can be charged with said device, have you done this yourself?

Today I hooked up a battery to a copper wire 3 foot long into the ground to the positive with a diode, the other terminal to my water pipes. The voltage went up from 12.62 to 12.66 then down to 12.63. ( about 5 hours ) I pulled it off after that, but I was impressed that it changed that much.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:44 AM
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Chip Shorter Chip Shorter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
This is a very profound concept. Please elaborate if you don't mind.
I think its called near field coupling. Essentially the two receivers act like a loosely coupled transformer and cancel out non obligitory waves. Weird stuff. I found this when I was doing research on Lloyd Crump's US patent #2,813,242 and some crystal plans I came across for these Free Power Radios that were driving transistors and charging caps etc. I found it to be different than regenerative or the local oscillator receivers used in supersonic heterodyne radios. Here is a link Nikola Tesla Page, Tesla's power receiver some really cool stuff in and about it.

Given what we know about disruptive discharging and radiant energy and the means on which to achieve the effect (the SSG leading to one of many ways) it could be behind the technology of T.H. Moray and Hans Coler. Essentially these guys built receivers capable of producing some real power. Could they have used this effect to make some sort of oscillator that not only rang itself into oscillation but kept sucking energy through the antenna/ground using similar principles? This is the stuff that keeps me awake at night.

BTW I will post the super charger schematics on a new thread soon.
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:35 AM
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Reply to Mart - battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by theremart View Post
It sounds like you have done your homework!!

I have looked at the page you referenced, was the first time I saw the "Tesla switch". impressive stuff there.

I have started this journey first buy making a pulse motor, then when I did a google search I found that Bedini had created one, that has got me hooked.

I have a biography of Benjamin Franklin, and I see that Bedini mentions his works as well.

You say that in 48 hours a battery can be charged with said device, have you done this yourself?

Today I hooked up a battery to a copper wire 3 foot long into the ground to the positive with a diode, the other terminal to my water pipes. The voltage went up from 12.62 to 12.66 then down to 12.63. ( about 5 hours ) I pulled it off after that, but I was impressed that it changed that much.
Hi Mart, I'm glad that you enjoyed my previously posted reply to you. As to your question, the answer is yes. It actually happened by accident, about 40 years ago, and it might interest you to know the story. My grandfather had a cottage on a lake in eastern Maine (which I still have today) and it is at the bottom of a large hill, many miles from any towns. My younger brother and I used to enjoy listening to the radio at night, long after my parents and grandparents had gone to sleep. We had a small cabin (without electricity), about 100 feet from the cottage, where we listened to a car radio that we hooked up to a car battery and some speakers. We ran wires from the battery to the radio using some lengths that we cut from a big spool of wire that my grandfather had laying around. Reception was very poor without an antenna, so I took the rest of the spooled wire and hooked one end to the antenna connection of the radio. Then I ran the aerial by tossing the spool over several tree branches in a direct line up the hill to gain some height. The length of wire was at least 200 feet, and I'd guess even more. The reception was great! When my grandfather saw the setup, he was impressed at my ingenuity, but said that we should ground the battery negative, and the metal radio case, to an actual ground driven rod to help avoid lightning damage. He gave me an iron rod, some heavy gauge wire, and a grounding clamp, and showed me what to do. We ended up falling asleep with the radio turned down low, and the battery drained overnight. My grandfather said we would be going to his house in town for a couple of days, and that he had a charger that we could bring out to the lake when we returned. He suggested that I should disconnect the positive wire, and the aerial wire, from the radio while we were gone, just as an additional safety precaution in case there was a storm, so I disconnected the wires. My brother had gone trout fishing in the brook alongside the cottage that morning, and didn't know about me disconnecting the wires. He went out to the cabin, before we left to go to town, and turned the radio on. Nothing happened. He saw that there was no wire hooked to the positive post of the battery, so grabbed what he thought was the right wire and attached it. Still nothing, of course, so he switched the radio off and shut the cabin door. Two days later we returned to the lake, and my grandfather was preparing to hook up the battery trickle charger with an extension cord from the cottage. When he saw that the battery positive was still connected, he remarked that I should have disconnected it before we left for town. I said that I had, and then my brother admitted that he had rehooked it. I looked at the wire, and quickly realized he had actually attached the aerial wire to the battery's positive terminal. I took the aerial wire off, connected it to the radio, and reconnected the proper wire to the battery. My grandfather hooked up the charger, which had a charge indicator needle built in, and the needle quickly rose into the green "full charge" area. He said, "What the heck is going on with this?," and tapped the meter with his finger, thinking the dial had stuck in the green position. It stayed there. He disconnected the charger and the needle fell to zero. He connected and disconnected the charger several more times with the same results, then told me to try the radio. I turned the radio on, and it worked fine. There had been a thunderstorm the day before we returned, but our neighbor said it never came within 5 miles of the lake. My gandfather theorized that perhaps enough static electricity had entered the aerial wire to charge the battery, and of course that was a pretty good guess. He said we were lucky that the battery did not explode, and rigged up a circuit box with a throw switch so that we could quickly and properly disconnect the circuit if we were leaving or heard a storm approaching. We just chalked up the experience as a miracle, and never attempted to recreate what had happened. I had actually forgotten about it until just recently, after speaking on the phone with Kevin. He had mentioned charging batteries by the same method, and I later realized that this is exactly what we had unintentionally done so many years ago by accident! Kevin also talked about how to find the best ground voltages by inserting metal rods in the ground and using a voltmeter with some long extended probe wires to measure the voltage across the rods. He said that you then move one of the rods a few feet (after marking its current location) and take another measurement. If the voltage decreases, you put the rod back where it was and then try moving the other rod and remeasuring the voltage. After a while, you finally find the best positions in your yard for your earth battery. Thanks to Kevin for that tip. The only electrical experiment I had ever done before with two metal earth rods was to drive them in, a few feet apart, and then hook some 110 volt household AC to them. Someone had told me that it worked great to drive earthworms to the surface, and it did, although I haven't done this again since being a teenager. Well, I hope I haven't bored you to death with this long-winded story. I just thought it might interest you, but I may be wrong. I've been known to be wrong more than a few times during my life! Let me know if it bored you, and I will delete it - I promise!

Best wishes, Rickoff
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  #29  
Old 06-03-2008, 11:17 PM
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RE: details...

Thank you for your experiences. That was cool!

I tried tonight charging the battery with out a diode, seemed to do nothing but drain the battery.

I then got the voltage meter out, and I found that between the copper rod outside to my water pipes measured .43 V

Tried other locations outside, but did not see greater.

Mart
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Last edited by theremart; 06-04-2008 at 12:55 AM.
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  #30  
Old 06-04-2008, 05:27 PM
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Reply to Mart - Re:antenna/ground battery charging

Hi Mart,

Glad you enjoyed my battery charging story. I'm not exactly sure why it worked so well, except that there was a thunderstorm nearby and certainly a lot of static electricity in the atmosphere. The antenna/ground charging circuits that others have used successfully all appear to utilize a capacitor, coil, and a spark gapping device (such as a spark plug) somewhere in the circuit. I don't remember where I downloaded this from, and it may well have been in one of the forum threads here, but here's a diagram of such a circuit:
battery charged by 200 ft antenna wire.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive
Here is another such circuit design with explanations:
OS:Radiant Energy Antenna System - PESWiki
And here is still another:
Emergency Power -- Survival Style
Note that both links have some very useful information, and both look at this type of charging in relation to survival energy. Everything needed could no doubt be found at a recycling center, junkyard, or automobile graveyard, although it certainly would be a good idea to start by locating and procuring the best possible parts for this, and at least having them ready for use when the need arises. Think of it as an emergency energy toolkit, at the least, and even better - start using the idea now to improve COP for whatever energy system you are using or designing. An important warning when using such a circuit: The voltage gain can be as much as 200 volts for each meter above ground of antenna height, thus an aerial raised to an appreciable height on a tower structure could easily develop deadly voltages. One should be very, VERY careful to provide and use as many safety precautions and safety devices as needed to protect all persons or animals who might unwittingly expose themselves to the danger.

Best regards, Rickoff
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