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Old 02-22-2007, 08:45 AM
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Bedini-Cole Window Motor Electric motor runs without draining batteries!!!

Hi everyone,

One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
perpetual motion nuts.

The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
light on an amazing recent release.

John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
"Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
known to man.

Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
in general.

For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
impossible.

Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

This is what it looks like:



The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
http://www.icehouse.net/john1/motor.html

The schematics for this motor are here:



Watch a demo video: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bedinicolemotor.mpg this is 12MB's long
so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

You can visit John's homepage here: http://www.icehouse.net/john1

Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
hidded all over his websites. There are many.

One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

Here is what his looks like:



Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




Watch this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rl1dI9YCi8

How does it power itself???

That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:27 AM
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Aaron Aaron is offline
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Analysis by John Bedini PART 1

I'm posting some deductive reasoning by John Bedini that he posted
online. These are the keys to making it work properly and his comments
are an analysis on what Mike said about his modification of John's circuit.

----------------

Everbody read Mike's story it will help.

Everone just read mikes story
John


Hi Dom,

wind your coil yet?, look for about 6-8 ohms on the main winding this gives a large back EMF wich charges the cap quick at first.
I will try to attach the video of my window type motor now follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery.Also I made a mistake the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
so 40-60 ohms sorry about that .No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not. If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)


I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v
glad to here that you have started construction allright after tracing all the wires I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity.study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
I go back to work one more thing before I go, When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly. This link is very good http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html must check it out

I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing , the bad news, I left my window motor running last night. Now it does not run at all. I will check all components after work.I feel very disapointed. OK back from work now I check the motor. I did a quick visual inspection and it looks OK and the cap holds a charge but when I turn the shaft it does not run, more checks.


I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.
ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine, I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.This suxs .

anyway I figured I would take some pictures of the stator and post soon This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile.
Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil. I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.

I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again. As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing. yes the original circuit will charge the cap my modification charged the cap from 0v faster
yes somthing is wrong with the cap. If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long and spark from discharge is week.Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030 also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

maby another big cap will take its place. can run the motor now but only with battery power. back to where I started.

I will get a hall sw at the local IC Supply store in the morning. any body have a running motor yet I know Dom looked realy close to finished.


OK Stefan, on second look your circuit is correct. the ss relay on your circuit looked wrong but I see it now

I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.
still trying to get my motor to work correctly, It has prooven to be harder than I thought.
I will post new scope shots soon

I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.
It makes me happy to see another window motor running.now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best. I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results
4.5v ac main winding
2.2v ac trigger winding
2.8 v ac third winding
stefan please show me were to place scope leeds on the diagram I posted Stefan please slow down the questions here are the scope shots you wanted

Main is top trace on both 1st shot is the main and trigger windings 2nd shot is the main and third windings I will do more tomorrow I am waiting for a hall ic so please be patient

OK guys I got the hall ic and the motor is working again here are the scope shots taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.

scope set at 2v per div. at 10 ms per div. first shot is with hall sensor hooked up and the second is without it hooked up
I have posted my full circuit diagram allready. but here it is again. i found this to work best for my setup.

please follow it exactly making no changes so we can compare results taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.
scope neg to cap neg no it will not run long without hall sensing. I pulled the hall output to ss relay, I spun it by hand for the scope shot (without hall ss relay)
Lets build and then compare results I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.
Hope this helps

cheers mike

----------------------------------------


continued in next post...
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:33 AM
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Aaron Aaron is offline
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Analysis by John Bedini PART 2

Now read the story this way now in red, You will see how everything gets confused by all the posts in between. This is something I learned in the military, how to get the answers. I did change the Neo magnets out in my motor and it does make a big difference, "so no neos" in this one please. Get the facts straight and you will build this motor. Focus on what Mike said or "Fail" . Do not assume anything , Mike is thinking out of the box, Neo Magnets suck in this motor, trigger circuit now works fine in my set up, Next the SS solid state switch.
John

<O:p
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O:p</O:p
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.<O:p</O:p
I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. <O:p</O:p
Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O:p</O:p
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity<O:p</O:p
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O:p</O:p
I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing <O:p</O:p
I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. <O:p</O:p
This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O:p</O:p
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.<O:p</O:p
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing<O:p</O:p
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O:p</O:p
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O:p</O:p
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O:p</O:p
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p</O:p
-------------------------------------------------<O:p</O:p
Now read it this way.<O:p</O:p
John<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O:p</O:p
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity<O:p</O:p
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O:p</O:p
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unityWhen you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O:p</O:p
I learned alot from these illustrations, I think look at the commutator to see the timing the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O:p</O:p
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.<O:p</O:p
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O:p</O:p
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O:p</O:p
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O:p</O:p
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p</O:p
------------

to be continued in next post...
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:34 AM
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Analysis by John Bedini PART 3

Now read the story this way, <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity,but I always stop it after a few hours or so. look at the commutator to see the timing ,("""ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them""".) I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o:p></o:p>
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<o:p></o:p>
-------------------------------------------------------<o:p></o:p>
Now read the story this way, Do you all get it now.<o:p></o:p>
John<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels..ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o:p></o:p>
----------------------------------<o:p></o:p>
The answer.<o:p></o:p>
ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge)<o:p></o:p>

---------------------

to be continued in next post...
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:35 AM
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Comments by Peter Lindemann

COMMENT BY PETER LINDEMANN of www.free-energy.cc<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
OK Everybody,<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
John has explained the method Mike used to get his unit working, in Mike?s own words. Also, he has run the experiment and determined that the Ceramic Magnets work better. So, that?s it!<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
It?s time to get serious about this project and standardize a design. These group verifications cannot be done properly with a ?hobby budget? mentality, where everybody just uses what they can afford or acquire easily. Get a list of components together that everybody can get. Decide on a wire size and the number of turns for each coil, so everybody can build the same thing. On this note, the biggest challenge may be finding a suitable replacement for the SS Relay. The part number that Mike calls for is no longer available.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
So, if Mike wants to come back and give all the specs on his model, that would be a good place to start. If this doesn?t happen right away, I suggest that John?s current model be the basis for this ?standardized design?. He has all the specs for it, the number of turns on the coils, the transistors, the magnets, the rotor hub size, etc. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
So from this point on, if you can actually get all of the parts for the standardized design and commit to the replication, then you can participate. If you can?t get the parts, don?t want to build a model right now, or don?t want to do it the way the group is proceeding, then please just watch quietly in the background and let the builders work it out!<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
In keeping with this advice, since I am not building one right now, this is my last post.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Good luck!!!<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Peter<o:p></o:p>
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:37 AM
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Parts list and replication details

<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Magnets: (looks like) double stacked rectangle radio shack mags every 60 degrees so total of 12
<O:p></O:p>

Spool body magnets attached to looks about 1.5” diameter
<O:p></O:p>

Power wire: 28 awg 700 feet
Trigger wire: 30 awg 400 feet
3<SUP>rd</SUP> wire: 30 awg 400 feet
<O:p></O:p>

Winding looks about 5-6” wide and about 4” tall
<O:p></O:p>

Capacitor: 47000 uf
<O:p></O:p>

2 X NPN Transistors: MPS 8099
1 X PNP Transistor: MPS 8599
<O:p></O:p>
1 X 10 ohm resistor
2 X 2.2k ohm resistor
1 X 3.3k ohm resistor
1 X 1N914 diode
<O:p></O:p>
1 X Bridge rectifier
<O:p></O:p>
1 X Hall Effect Transistor: Bipolar 3030 Hall IC
<O:p></O:p>
<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><V:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></V:path><v:imagedata src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/aaron/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.png" o:title=""></v:imagedata><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comhttp://www.energeticforum.com/ /><o:lock aspectratio=</o:lock><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style=" /><O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Relay details:?????????????????????????????????????????? ??<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>

<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Comments from Mike:
<O:p></O:p>
No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound
I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not.
If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
play with sw1 timing

**I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
you must get your window motor running,
then we can talk about charge timing and unity.
study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.
I use (28 gauge .012 in. main), (30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)<O:p></O:p>
I get a little over 40 ohms each<O:p></O:p>
the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.<O:p></O:p>
I must say that my stator coil is wider<O:p></O:p>
i will post a picture of it soon<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Direct measurements from mikes spun by hand:-<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
4.5v ac main winding<O:p></O:p>
2.2v ac trigger winding<O:p></O:p>
2.8 v ac third winding<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods-<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Troubleshooting Tips:-<O:p></O:p>
monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
@dom I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
-Mike mentioned just use main coil and see if you get spikes coming only from that, but I'm not sure if that would work since i have the trigger coil disconnected, I'll try anyway.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Lets build and then compare results
I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.

Hope this helps

cheers mike<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:14 AM
fleubis fleubis is offline
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No Bedini-Cole self-runner via Capacitor

If you have been following this at all, you'd know that Mike disappeared from the Bedini-Cole Window Motor group and that NO ONE has a self-runner using only a capacitor & no battery. The Bedini-Cole egroup is now back to the old Bedini program of using two batteries. Time for everyone to stop inflating this story all out of proportion to what's really going on.
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Old 04-10-2007, 06:45 AM
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self-runner uses batteries

Thanks for the heads up Fleubis,

This is why I changed the title of the thread to "runs without draining batteries" as John has done with it using a battery. Originally, I posted the title as "runs without batteries". I haven't had time yet to adjust the info in this whole thread. John is a good friend of mine and I know the details well.

By the way, Cole had a self running that NBC took away didn't he?

Thanks,
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:21 AM
Patrick Kelly Patrick Kelly is offline
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Mike's Window motor modification

Hi Aaron,

I am new to this forum and am not yet familiar with the layout and methods used here. I have been most impressed with Mike's modification to the Window motor. On my web site I have a description of the Window motor as shown in the drawings of John and Ron. I would very much like to extend that description to include Mike's development. Do you know if there would be any objection to that or alternatively, any way of contacting Mike to ask his permission?

Thanks for your help,

Patrick
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:00 PM
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Mike's modification

Hi Patrick,

Most of what Mike posted is in public domain now and I don't think he has any copyright to it that I know of. Most of the posts I've seen were in overunity.com and then moreso in gn0sis.com. Quite a few people have compiled it in different docs and have spread them around the net.

Feel free to post a link here to your window motor description. The more references and info the better!

Mike has dropped out and probably won't be forthcoming with anything anytime soon. John had a different version that didn't kill the batts and this is the only way it seems he found out how to keep it "self-running" but I don't think this 100% proves that Mike was a fraud. There isn't enough information to know in my opinion.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:35 PM
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John Bedini | Radiant Energy

John Bedini | Radiant Energy
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:00 AM
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Time to dig up this old thread. I am well underway into a window motor replication and I need to clarify something before continuing. Perhaps Aaron can answer this, Im not sure how many people have built window motors, or have much knowledge of them.

I am build a 6 pole rotor and I noticed on Johns lab notes that the steel rotor goes slow, and the non magnetic rotor goes fast. Is this just in relation to a 2 pole configuration? Or is it imparted because of the steel? If it is the steel which slows rotation down, then what is its purpose? Does it increase torque? To clarify I am talking about the attached diagrams

Any hint or help would be gladly appreciated and could save me a LOT of time and effort, its not easy building a hexagonal rotor from scratch!

Last edited by ren : 12-03-2009 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:20 AM
Chevronb19 Chevronb19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
Hi everyone,

One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
perpetual motion nuts.

The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
light on an amazing recent release.

John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
"Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
known to man.

Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
in general.

For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
impossible.

Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

This is what it looks like:



The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
MOTOR DIAGRAMS AND LAB NOTES

The schematics for this motor are here:



Watch a demo video: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bedinicolemotor.mpg this is 12MB's long
so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

You can visit John's homepage here: Welcome to John Bedini

Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
hidded all over his websites. There are many.

One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

Here is what his looks like:



Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




Watch this video:

YouTube - Bedini Cole Window Motor (free energy)

How does it power itself???

That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!

Hmmm... Aaron, I think I would like to get into this when I get my car running more cheaply with HHO. It's very impressive.
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:36 AM
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Mike's motor

Hi Chevron,

Nobody has been able to duplicate the results Mike has. It has been claimed that the University go their hands on his motor (in HI I think) and no further word.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:38 AM
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Jetijs Jetijs is offline
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Aaron,
in the window motor yahoo group there was numerous messages on Mikes motor. All the members, including John Bedini himself, for months tried to figure out how Mikes setup could work. Mike apparently used a solid state relay. But it was John, who first noticed in Mikes video that the SSR was connected incorrectly in such way that it could not possibly work. This gave him an idea that there might be a hidden power source in that relay. He tried to replace the relay with a small battery and viola - the motor behaved just like Mikes with all the scope shots identical. If Mike would be paying more attention of SSR wiring, we might never even figure out how his motor was running. Since these motors use just some 1-30mA of current, there was no problem to hide a small battery in the solid state relay and the motor could run for weeks. Excellent detective work by John

Last edited by Jetijs : 07-15-2008 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:05 AM
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Mike's self runner

Hi Jetijs,

I remember all the soap opera going on about that motor.

When I go to a page that might have info I want to keep, I click on "FILE" then "SAVE AS" and I give it a name...like mikesmotor1, etc...

Anyway, I'd encourage anyone to save entire websites to their computer as interesting info arises.

But yes, I remember that and am not sure what to make of it. I don't know if the idea of the battery in the relay is "proof" that there was deception, but the idea certainly brings up other possibilities.
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Old 07-16-2008, 01:21 AM
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ren ren is offline
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Aaron I do the same, but also, remember to back them up to a hard copy! I lost a fair bit of info due to computer malfunction, I wont make that mistake again
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:06 AM
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Whooly crap. okay , ill get onto a COMPLETE Bedini write up and TEST validation based on this infoz. Aaron., you and your community here seem to be a very important spanner in the works, thanks for this.

Ash
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:52 AM
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Already being done
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Old 07-16-2008, 07:06 AM
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self runners

Has anyone seen any other Bedini circuits "self run" without draining the input? Something can still drain the input and have way over 1.0 COP if what drains is slower and less than what the circuit is producing.

Mike's window motor might have done it if real.

Rick's self runner appears to have self run and boosted input battery voltge. Not sure how long it could keep up doing that and what it would do to the battery.

I've done similar variations to what Rick was doing and had the input battery climb but my experience was that it gave fluffy phantom charge to the front battery. I'm not implying this is what Rick's will do...just that was my personal experience.

I think it is possible to send output to front battery if the conditions are right, but I haven't seen that happen yet SOLIDLY and am not super sure of what the right conditions would be.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:14 AM
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Aaron the best battery swapping so called self running device I have built is the one with a bridge over the SSG with cap and SCR. The negative of the bridge goes back into the SSG circuits negative and the cap is hooked up to the battery being charged.

I can swap power between the banks VERY efficiently, but one battery responds better than the other to this, they were both second hand to start with. I have had the best results so far this way.
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Old 07-23-2008, 02:31 PM
Kingman Kingman is offline
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Hi All, I'm new here and this is my first post. I really admire all of the research that is going on in this forum and think it is the best on the Web. Thanks Aaron for your book, I enjoyed it very much. I wished that you had signed it, anyway I took two of my five SSG's and hooked it up to one 12volt garden tractor battery that has a bad cell so consequently I do not care what happens to this battery. I set one of my SSG's to dumping its charge into this battery and another of my SSG's to running off of the same battery. The darn thing ran for three days with the voltage setting at 7.52 volt all of this time! I really didn't care if I killed the battery but it didn't seem to hurt it at all. It just sat there and ran. The only reason I terminated the test was because my primary battery on the first SSG was running down and approching 12.05 volt and I didn't want to take it below that. BTW, I still have that old garden tractor battery and it still is holding its voltage at around 8 volts and I still use it time to time to dump charging voltage into it when I'm studying other processes on a running SSG. I'm now working on plans for a 16 coil energizer with a magnetically levitated rotor. We need to get away from the friction of using bearings. Jetijs and Ren, I really admire the work you guys have done! Amazing stuff and the same goes to you ThereMart. Keep up the great work! I look forward to reading your posts.
Stephen
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Old 07-23-2008, 05:47 PM
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Hi everyone!!!!!!

I have come to something (maybe)..
I hook my small bedini sg with a small step motor and got decent results..
I hook the step motor with 6x in and out 1n4005 diodes and have it hook
to the bedini running at 1260 rpm and i got 14.70 volts..
I hook the output of the step motor to the imput battery and after 11 days
it's still at 12.46 volts at the imput battery...
I gotta do more testing to look how many mm amps i can get at full rpm
from the step motor???
Or,how many volts i put in the front side???
Can i get it running on the step motor with caps hook to it????
I gotta mesure the volt and amps at rest too...

Come back with more results!!!

Alain D
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Old 07-23-2008, 06:31 PM
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Welcome Stephen

Hi Stephen,

I'm happy you liked the book! Welcome to the forum!
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:10 PM
Huckmubb Huckmubb is offline
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Guys!? Nobody has tried to replicate the self running window motor lately?

How come on fight4truth.com it says the window motor will run its self?

Well I built a window motor. I tried the "Mike's" modification of putting the charging winding in series with the primary winding. It doesn't do anything, I mean, absolutely nothing. Unless I did something wrong, which is possible, I did not notice ANY change on the scope... Not even the slightest change in the waveform. I tried every conceivable timing by adjusting it as the motor was running. As far as I can tell, Mike's modification is drawn incorrectly, or really just doesn't do anything.

(Note I used a reed switch to do this modification (not a solid state relay). It should do the same thing.

But wait... I still have hope, that's why I am writing. Can anyone help me? Does anyone have any knowledge of a "self running" Window motor. I am just trying to make my motor run on a capacitor.

As it is, I can run the motor for about 1 minute on a capacitor before it drains down and dies at 2.75 volts. Then I have to charge the capacitor back up. I am drawing only about 0.030 amps (3 miliamps). I just need to figure out a way to gain 0.030 amps worth of free current, and then I'll have a self runner. There just has to be a way to do this.



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Old 08-06-2009, 05:52 PM
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Hi Huckmubb,

As far as I know the "Mike Modification" is bogus. I believe that John Bedini and Rick Friedrich spent a lot of time trying to get it to work (and showed videos of this) and in the end concluded that "Mike" had a small hidden battery that charged up the cap.

As far as getting it to self-run goes, on fight4truth Erwin shows a commutator arrangement similar to the machine shown in the first part of the "Free Energy Generation" book by Cheniere Press. That may be a good place for you to focus your investigations.

Good luck!
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:07 PM
Huckmubb Huckmubb is offline
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I watched a video where John and some other guys are running a window motor that these guys built. John says:

"Mike was right.... Now we have a generator that is 2 over what the motor is...... The motor is now running in a zero field...."

Then I also read something where John says:

"I have been telling you guys how this is done.... I have figured out Mike's motor.... Nobody seems to listen...."

I don't see how it went from being proven one moment, to a fraud the next?

Here is the video:

Free energy window motor

Last edited by Huckmubb : 08-07-2009 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:16 PM
Huckmubb Huckmubb is offline
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Holy cra* .... Now this person has done some amazing work. The best I've seen.

He says his window motor will run for HOURS on a capacitor.... Dang!

I suppose this has to be just "slightly" over-unity because tiny capacitors cannot run a motor for hours.... This video is proof positive that these motors do defy some conventional limits.

YouTube - Mini Window Motors Capacitor Demonstration.

Last edited by Huckmubb : 08-07-2009 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:46 PM
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Shamus Shamus is offline
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I've seen the second half of that first video but not the first half. Very interesting...

The reason why I said what I said is that I saw a video with John Bedini and Rick Friedrich showing the replication with a hidden battery. My search-fu is a bit weak lately, so apologies for not supplying the link.

At any rate, is there anything else other than the video (the 1st one)? Like a circuit diagram?
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:23 PM
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Al fin veo a alguien que empieza a hacer las cosas como corresponden

:P
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