Bedini Earth Light

[NickZ]

B_rads:
To find the best materials that can make a cell produce and transfer the most current, as well as to be able to maintain a steady current level, that doesn't drop, and that can be placed in parallel to further obtain higher current levels, and not just voltage, is the goal, at least for me. Not as easy as it seams though.

[ibpointless2]

Ib:
You can use all the salt you want. Epsom has been tried, just trying to save you effort. As you mentioned that you wanted long term batteries, and other people too. Sorry, I will not bother you again.

I appreciated the info and I didn't mean sound rude to you i do apologies for that.

I'm just going off what my notes have taught me about these cells. The Epsom salts seem to work great for me as they dehydrate the cells as they do with humans when its consumed. The Epsom salts also seem to give it a steady voltage too. As for Alum that Bedini used I find it to be worse for the cells, it lowers the power output for me. The only reason why I'm not worried about the Epsom salts is that they only give a small voltage where the real corrosive cells gave a higher voltage.

[ibpointless2]

Here's a video that talks about Marcus Reid crystal batteries. Its broken in 3 parts, in part 3 they show the cells powering clocks and such but here is part one.

‪Marcus Reid Crystal Converter Battery - Casimir Effect - Part 1‬‏ - YouTube

[mikrovolt]

Thankyou for finding this and special thanks to TheRealVerbz2, Marcus Reid, John Hutchison
‪Marcus Reid Crystal Converter Battery - Casimir Effect - Part 3‬‏ - YouTube
what would you say are the dimensions of this cell ?
In the development of Lithium cells, (some more than others) the active materials give higher
currents the thinner they are, they can be found inside some cell phone batteries.
some of the methods tried for making thin layers are thermal lamination and
the method of application of liquid by spray bottle to form a thin film shown by John
Bedini. In these cells pressure plays a roll.

A ferroectric generator patents
ELECTRIC GENERATOR - Patent application
also note under background of invention [0010] hydrogen

Rochelle salts [0085]
The examples howto [0107] ...
ELECTRIC GENERATOR - Google Patents
It is not coincidence that negative resistance zones along with solid state junctions have been utilized in OU devices.

[b_rads]

Update on the banana cells. It appears after 48 hours that resistance is starting to build. In fairness, the temp is several degrees cooler today as it has been overcast and a good rain this afternoon and evening. The voltage on the 3 cells is 0.861 to 0.869. The current has dropped to 0.6 to 1.0ma. When connected parallel the current only adds to 1.8ma where the 3 should have added to 2.6ma and the voltage after is 0.75V when it starts to climb again. I suspect in that in a short time, these cells will fail. This has happened with the monothermal replications as well. The early replication attempts failed as well, even though they showed good promise at first. I still think there is a future for these types of cells (glue and cement) when we hit the right formula and build.
I have not watched the videos posted earlier, but plan to. Thanks in advance.
Brad S

[NickZ]

b_rads and IB, and All:
In the video Lidmotor pretty much confirms what I was thinking about glue and how it also does oxidize the different electrodes. That may very well be the reason of the dropping in both voltage and current, that b_rads is noticing. As it forms a resistance to the constant flow of current. As well breaking down the connections points on the cell and other connections, as I also mentioned earlier. I don't know if any salt was used, or not.
Maybe IB knows.
‪Gummy Bear battery and Glue Battery running an LCD clock.ASF‬‏ - YouTube

[ibpointless2]

b_rads and IB, and All:
In the video Lidmotor pretty much confirms what I was thinking about glue and how it also does oxidize the different electrodes. That may very well be the reason of the dropping in both voltage and current, that b_rads is noticing. As it forms a resistance to the constant flow of current. As well breaking down the connections points on the cell and other connections, as I also mentioned earlier. I don't know if any salt was used, or not.
Maybe IB knows.
‪Gummy Bear battery and Glue Battery running an LCD clock.ASF‬‏ - YouTube

I do find it odd that Lidmotor glue cells oxidize right away when he made them, something doesn't seem right with that. All my plain glue cells have never shown any oxidization and makes me wonder why his does. It could be because he lives near the ocean and the sea salty air destroys the cell? Or the cheaper glue has some corrosive additives in it?

The only corrosion I've seen was when I heated the copper plate and turned it black and then make cell out of that, but only the copper was starting to corrode.

The voltage drop in b-rads cell is from the glue drying and becoming more of a dielectric than a conductor.

One other reason why other cells corrode might be that I use paper and cardboard to hold my cells on and others use plastic which holds the water in. The water seems to fall from the glue due to gravity and find its way between the holes in the paper where its absorbed. The Epsom salts also help to get rid of the water too as it will dehydrate the cell like it would dehydrate you body when consumed.

[NickZ]

I think that as time goes by, the metals further corrode and may cause the drop in current flow what we notice. There really can't be another explanation as it takes months for a cells water content to really dry out, and yet it does not take that long to see the rust and the current drop.
The reason most people stopped working on the mg-carbon cells which put out many times more output, is due to their inability to deal with the oxidation problem from using salt, and possible even the Alum.
I just got an answer from Lasersaber mentioning that his mg-carbon cells do last a long time, so I don't know what to think. But, from what I've seen of Johns B cells is that they do look like they are highly oxidized, although nobody has mentioned any current drop. Just that the mag ribbon breaks or dissolves apart. There still may be a current drop there too. The metals rust but the carbon is untouched.
Lidmotor cleans his cells off with wd-40, when he finishes working with them, and puts them away.
Lasersaber just mentioned that he is exited about the new cells he's working on, which are in an oil bath of sorts. Which is what I had mentioned to Lidmotor, but he said that when he has added oil is just kills the output.
I was hoping to just bury them in the back yard, and not have to be adding water to them all the time, as it rains here for many months.
Anyways, I'm also exited about the prospect of having stronger permanent output power cells, that last a while, too.

[NickZ]

IB:
Possibly the reason why the cell that was shown in the video using the lid, shows oxidation in the wires is due to: the wire was smashed flat, affecting the structure of both metals, and the plastic lid, that is also sealing in the water on that side of the lid, may not be helping either. The point being that even the glue cells which have water in them can "dry out", still retaining some water in them, and similar to the cement cells, will oxidize the metals causing the wire break down until no juice can flow.. This can usually occur right at the entrance point of the wire into the cell due to the oxygen in the air. WD-40, silicon glue, or e-poxy, can help there.
Pretty informative video, of your glue cells, hug? I didn't much care for the bunny, not my color.

[NickZ]

What just comes to mind, so I'll write it down before I forget about it, is:
What may work better instead of using any water in making these types of cells, would be a solid and dry substance like e-poxy. As there is no water in that, and anything can be added to it. Such as iron fillings, that can be polarized with a magnet or a 12 volt current, while it is still curing, or just with your favorite mix. I think that it would work.
Now, if I forget about this, just remind me.

[Lidmotor]

Chemistry

@All
I don't understand chemistry very well and this really hindered me on this project. I do understand enough to know that most of what we are seeing with our homemade batteries----is a reaction between elements. The power is not coming from the Tooth Fairy or Santa Claus. We may be seeing some influx of energy from the environment from the COMPLETELY dry cells but it isn't much. This doesn't mean that what we have done isn't important. These chemical reaction cells, if they lasts longer and produce more power, are a good thing.

@Nick, Ibpointless, and Brad
My "Gummy Bear" and "Glue Battery" are still around and I will take a look at them. The galvanic spread between the Mg and copper metals was what made the power---and made the deterioration happen. I didn't add salt to the glue but the glue was not Elmers so that could be another reason.
I am working with Lasersaber's idea with the oil on the mg & carbon cell to slow down the reaction (or change it). The one that I am having luck with I soaked with 3in1 oil (that killed the reaction) then washed it off with dish detergent and tapwater. After that I completely covered it with Alum powder and put it in a clear plastic bottle that is sealed at the top. The out put is very low but I am not seeing Mg deterioration. If I just use oil on the cell it just seems to completely stop any reaction---as it should. I don't know how Lasersaber is doing it.

Here is a video of the LED circuit that I am now using on these weak but long lasting cells:

‪Steel wire - pancake coil-Joule Thief.ASF‬‏ - YouTube

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[NickZ]

Neither the Tooth Fairy nor Santa came this year, I think its due to magnetic shifting, or...
but, the cement cells are still giving a little light, through another storm here. They're die-ing, but aren't dead yet. I just put them out in a big tropical rainstorm, strayed a little WD-40 (don't overkill?), and their good to go ... Still seams to work. I did find one dead cell though, just like in a car battery. One weak or dead cell will kill the rest in a chain, like Christmas lights. Out it went. Wd- application was not able to save it... Sad case, hated to lose it.
@ Lidmotor:
Thanks for video link, and the update on the Mg-Carbon cell. Hope that somebody comes up with a solution to the Mg breakdown from the salt.
I'll make a cell out of one of the carbon filter element using a thick 3/16" or so solid aluminum wire to wrap on the outside. Soon as the rain stops here.
Some pretty mayor storms going on the last couple of days.

[ibpointless2]

I hate to admit it but these cells really are nothing more than galvanic cells, even if they don't show it. My latest glue cells still show no deterioration and take shorting out very well. Its the water in all of our cells that makes them tick and create the galvanic reaction that we see. Some of our cells have merely slowed down the galvanic reaction so its not noticeable right away and may never be noticeable.

They make Moisture detectors that see how much water you have. How they work is very simple so I made one my self using a battery, transistor, and LED. I used a 2n2222a transistor and 3 volt battery. Probe 1 and Probe 2 are just copper wire that I use to poke the cells and try to get inside the cells. I'll have a picture below of the moisture detector. If the LED turns on then you have water in your cell, the brighter the LED the more water you have. You really got to poke into the cell to see the water, just looking at the cell will not do well that's what the moisture detector is for.

[Armagdn03]

I hate to admit it but these cells really are nothing more than galvanic cells, even if they don't show it. My latest glue cells still show no deterioration and take shorting out very well. Its the water in all of our cells that makes them tick and create the galvanic reaction that we see. Some of our cells have merely slowed down the galvanic reaction so its not noticeable right away and may never be noticeable.

They make Moisture detectors that see how much water you have. How they work is very simple so I made one my self using a battery, transistor, and LED. I used a 2n2222a transistor and 3 volt battery. Probe 1 and Probe 2 are just copper wire that I use to poke the cells and try to get inside the cells. I'll have a picture below of the moisture detector. If the LED turns on then you have water in your cell, the brighter the LED the more water you have. You really got to poke into the cell to see the water, just looking at the cell will not do well that's what the moisture detector is for.



[ATTACH]8610[/ATTACH]

Thank goodness someone said it...nobody is playing correctly here.

[Armagdn03]

Thank goodness someone said it...nobody is playing correctly here.

Note: Salts / Ores are found in nature....

They are Separated (electrically, thermally...etc...same thing) to create metals etc.

They go from a stable condition, neutral, non reactive, (salt), to a Unstable condition, an electrically separated condition. This is why "elements" are so quick to oxidase, they want to move towards a chemically stable position.

Any dissimilar metal has an "electric difference". this is how batteries work.

This difference causes a litteral potential difference...

Much like 5,000 v and 7,000 v have a potential difference of 2000 volts.

this mixing and matching of dissimilar metals with an electrolyte is re-inventing the wheel in the MOST clumsy way possible.