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Can Bedini motor be powered from ordinary battery charger?

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  • Can Bedini motor be powered from ordinary battery charger?


    I have problem to start my first replication of Bedini motor....I followed instructions from MDG...

    "...- Couldn't get SCR so I made a simple circuit with a transistor driven by a 555 timer for the capacitor discharging part;
    - The Capacitor is an old rusted 10 microFarad 400 Volts from Air Cond. spare parts shop.
    - The larger part of the budget was for the wires for the Trifilar coil; I use Gauge 22, 3 lengths of 30 meters (3 x 100 feet), wound around a bunch of 8 welding rods inserted in w White Electrician Plastic Pipe diameter 20 mm (3/4 inch), and 100 mm long (4 inch.). I didn't count the turns, but I took care to have the 3 wires of the exact same length, and wound quite properly together.
    - As transistors I used what I had already (see diagram)..."


    Unfortunately I don't have good battery to try it out, but when I hook it to classic battery charger 2n3055 after while gets realy hot...I measured 0.4V between base and emmiter when circuit is powered. Also, you guess, wheel doesen't turns...I modified circuit so I'm using 680k resistor with 1k pot...but nothing changes...I have 1 bolt and welding rods as core....
    Is it possible that output of classic charger somehow blocks circuit?

  • #2
    No. I often use battery chargers to power Bedini motors with no problem.

    Your circuit shows a self oscillating circuit, not a Bedini monopole, so it will be difficult to get it to run a motor.

    Remove the 20k resistor and replace the 10k resistor with a diode and you have a Bedini monopole circuit. this will then switch in time with the magnets passing the coil. Then by adjusting your pot and spinning the rotor you should be able to get the motor to run.

    If you use a normal pot it may burn out, Use a high power pot.


    • #3
      Same thing...


      Thanks for helping me...
      I put 1n914 instead of 10k and removed 20k but nothing changes. Voltage is now 0.38V between base and emmiter...resistor in base is 680 1/2 W + 1k pot...interesting thing is that pot doesen't effect at all...When power is applied I hear buzzing when magnet is above coil core...I tried to see if coil can push the wheel when I manualy apply voltage and it can. Ressistance is about 2.3 ohms in each winding. There is no push effect for some reason and 2n3055 is warming fast... ...


      • #4
        Did you turn your 5k pot down to 680 ohms?


        • #5
          Smoky 2n3055

          Thanks everyone for help...

          I realised that I switched collector and emitter during assembly...that's why 2n3055 was getting I put it right this time and problem with heating disappeard...but there is still no push efect...
          Do I have to hook secondary to the dead battery or capacitor is enough?
          For some reason while I manualy turned wheel with magnets I manage to fry 2n3055...tuning this circuit becomes nightmare...
          I switched base resistor with 180 ohms + 1k pot but it didn't help transistor to stay alive...
          There is something unclear to me...How I see it, as magnet passes top of the coil, trigger coil opens transistor, primary coil charges from primary source and bounces magnet..but when bjt shuts down there is peak from primary coil and that's what, I belive, killed my logic is -shorter openings=> higher peak...without protective diode or some kind of protection bjt will die for sure sooner or later...That is, I think, voltage peak witch reflects on secondary and charges capacitor...
          Bright side is while bjt was alive I managed to load capacitor to 230V dc and spark was just like from mr. Bedini colour... very interesting...


          • #6
            Need Neon bulb

            Hello Shaca,

            You have to have a 60 volt neon bulb connected from the collector to the emitter of the 2N3055 to protect the transistor from the higher voltage. Most 2N3055S are only rated for 60 volts from the collector to the emitter. I am surprised you could get the cap charged that high before you blew the 2N3055. You should never run that circuit without a charge battery or cap connected. If you are using a cap you can't let it charge too high or it will blow the 2N3055 if you don't have the neon bulb in the circuit.

            If you can't get the coil to drive the wheel after you give it a spin by hand you may have the trigger winding backwards. Try reversing the trigger winding and see if that makes it go.

            By the way an open transistor is one that has been burned out and will no longer work. A transistor is either turned on or turned off. A switch may be open which means the contacts are not touching (turned off) or it may be closed which means the contacts are touching (turned on). Just trying to help you understand some of the electronics lingo. Open in electronics means the circuit is not complete and therefore no current can flow.

            Hope this helps, Carroll
            Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone. This means YOU especially BroMikey.


            • #7
              use a new transistor.

              build the SG circuit, checking all your connections twice. Use 100 ohms off the base to start with.

              Measure how much voltage is induced into one of the windings when you spin the rotor by hand. If its less than 1v you will probably have problems.

              If using an unusual power supply like a battery charger you have to fool it into thinking its actually loading. It depends on the charger though. Is it a smart charger? Or does it output a set voltage, probably 14-14.5v? Does it trickle charge?

              Its output should already be DC, so you shouldnt need to rectify it. Try using a 12v bulb, see if it runs it at an even brightness. Measure the voltage here as well under load. A capacitor in parallel could help here. I have a Ryobi power tool Lead Acid charger here that I use as a benchtop power supply. With a 10000uF cap and a small DC fan keeping it cool (and loading it slightly to trick it into thinking its powering something, otherwise it doesnt switch on) I can output up to 5 amps @ 14v.

              Its not ideal, I dont power my motors with it, but it should work. Knowing a little of technical information on your charger might help to. Is it a SMPS?

              Post a picture of your rotor and coil/circuit if you can.
              "Once you've come to the conclusion that what what you know already is all you need to know, then you have a degree in disinterest." - John Dobson


              • #8
                I don't get 1V in trigger coil so I belive there is no much 'juice' to turn on BJT...

                I'll have to rewind it somehow for better performance...can someone give me advice what geometry for coil shood I use for 100 feet (around 30m) gauge 22 copper wire...sorry for my english...


                • #9

                  I would like to thank you all for help...the wheel is spinning...not very fast but steadily...
                  I've noticed that if I put more resistance on base of BJT voltage on capacitor more quickly gets to the magic point of about 100VDC...
                  Do you have some advice what voltage is optimum for car battery desulfatisation? After first cycle my dead-10 year old-long forgotten battery with around 2 volts steadily hold 10.6V...