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Bedini-Cole Window Motor Electric motor runs without draining batteries!!!

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  • Rakarskiy
    replied
    More pictures
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • jettis
    replied
    Here is a link to more of those Ron Cole and John Bedini notes...John Bedini's Magnetic Model


    Dave Wing

    Leave a comment:


  • Rakarskiy
    replied
    Few schemes and figures




    Leave a comment:


  • vidbid
    replied
    Found Plans

    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Hi everyone,

    One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
    There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
    people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
    perpetual motion nuts.

    The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
    absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
    the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
    is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
    light on an amazing recent release.

    John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
    "Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
    because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
    known to man.

    Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
    geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
    in general.

    For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
    different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
    the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
    this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
    impossible.

    Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

    This is what it looks like:



    The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
    404 Not Found

    The schematics for this motor are here:



    Watch a demo video: 404 Not Found this is 12MB's long
    so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

    You can visit John's homepage here: 404 Not Found

    Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
    hidded all over his websites. There are many.

    One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
    and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
    meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
    and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
    of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

    Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
    plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
    keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

    Here is what his looks like:



    Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




    Watch this video:

    YouTube

    How does it power itself???

    That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
    get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
    circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
    they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
    their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!
    I found the plans in the way back machine:

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160819...hn1/motor.html

    Leave a comment:


  • ET-Power
    replied
    Window Motor Circuit Board Repair

    Hello,

    Is anyone located in California, or near Northern California?

    I have two window motors both of which are not working as they were damaged in transportation. I attempted to repair them by replacing the opto isolator but it was not successful. Should be a simple fix, but I am no engineer/technician as I am new to the hands on aspects.

    LOOKING FOR AN EXPERIENCED INDIVIDUAL FOR HELP, THIS WILL LEAD TO CONSISTENT WORK IF YOU DESIRE.

    THANK YOU!
    shamanichealing@nym.hush.com

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    A recent replication of a window motor running on less

    than one volt.


    WINDOW MOTOR-GENERATOR

    [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtp1zUk15Ws[/VIDEO]

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    All of the nuts and bolts to do the job.



    Originally posted by Aaron

    Parts list and replication details

    Parts list and replication details


    Magnets: (looks like) double stacked rectangle radio shack mags every 60 degrees so total of 12


    Spool body magnets attached to looks about 1.5 diameter


    Power wire: 28 awg 700 feet
    Trigger wire: 30 awg 400 feet
    3<SUP>rd</SUP> wire: 30 awg 400 feet


    Winding looks about 5-6 wide and about 4 tall


    Capacitor: 47000 uf


    2 X NPN Transistors: MPS 8099
    1 X PNP Transistor: MPS 8599

    1 X 10 ohm resistor
    2 X 2.2k ohm resistor
    1 X 3.3k ohm resistor
    1 X 1N914 diode

    1 X Bridge rectifier

    1 X Hall Effect Transistor: Bipolar 3030 Hall IC

    <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><Vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></Vath><v:imagedata src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/aaron/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.png" o:title=""></v:imagedata><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</o:lock><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style=" />

    Relay details:?????????????????????????????????????????? ??







    Comments from Mike:

    No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound
    I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not.
    If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

    play with sw1 timing

    **I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)

    you must get your window motor running,
    then we can talk about charge timing and unity.
    study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
    When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.
    I use (28 gauge .012 in. main), (30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)
    I get a little over 40 ohms each
    the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.
    I must say that my stator coil is wider
    i will post a picture of it soon

    Direct measurements from mikes spun by hand:-

    4.5v ac main winding
    2.2v ac trigger winding
    2.8 v ac third winding


    now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods-

    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+

    Troubleshooting Tips:-
    monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.

    @dom I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand

    try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results


    -Mike mentioned just use main coil and see if you get spikes coming only from that, but I'm not sure if that would work since i have the trigger coil disconnected, I'll try anyway.


    Lets build and then compare results
    I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

    When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.

    Hope this helps

    cheers mike






    Aaron Murakami

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Compilation data collection so we can build this motor

    once and for all. Peter, when are you going to do a zero

    motor? Oops off topic. We'll gitcha later


    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann

    Comments by Peter Lindemann

    Comments by Peter Lindemann
    COMMENT BY PETER LINDEMANN of www.free-energy.ws<o></o>
    OK Everybody,<o></o>
    <o></o>
    John has explained the method Mike used to get his unit working, in Mike?s own words. Also, he has run the experiment and determined that the Ceramic Magnets work better. So, that?s it!<o></o>
    <o></o>
    It?s time to get serious about this project and standardize a design. These group verifications cannot be done properly with a ?hobby budget? mentality, where everybody just uses what they can afford or acquire easily. Get a list of components together that everybody can get. Decide on a wire size and the number of turns for each coil, so everybody can build the same thing. On this note, the biggest challenge may be finding a suitable replacement for the SS Relay. The part number that Mike calls for is no longer available.<o></o>
    <o></o>
    So, if Mike wants to come back and give all the specs on his model, that would be a good place to start. If this doesn?t happen right away, I suggest that John?s current model be the basis for this ?standardized design?. He has all the specs for it, the number of turns on the coils, the transistors, the magnets, the rotor hub size, etc. <o></o>
    <o></o>
    So from this point on, if you can actually get all of the parts for the standardized design and commit to the replication, then you can participate. If you can?t get the parts, don?t want to build a model right now, or don?t want to do it the way the group is proceeding, then please just watch quietly in the background and let the builders work it out!<o></o>
    <o></o>
    In keeping with this advice, since I am not building one right now, this is my last post.<o></o>
    <o></o>
    Good luck!!!<o></o>
    <o></o>
    Peter<o></o>

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Right from the horses mouth

    Thx john you are the greatest. I'll take note.

    Everybody is gonna think I'm butterin you up

    I don't care what people say, your it. Oh and those who

    keep it all going.


    If I could get these other people ta stop

    hagglin over trifles we might get this show on the road.






    Originally posted by Aaron

    Analysis by John Bedini PART 3

    Analysis by John Bedini PART 3

    Now read the story this way,
    <o</o
    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity,but I always stop it after a few hours or so. look at the commutator to see the timing ,("""ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them""".) I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o</o
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<o</o
    -------------------------------------------------------
    Now read the story this way, Do you all get it now.<o</o
    John
    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels..ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
    The answer.
    ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge)<o</o

    Last edited by John_Bedini; Today at 05:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Past data collecting, sweet deal Thanks Aaron.



    Originally posted by Aaron
    Aaron Murakami

    Analysis by John Bedini PART 2
    Now read the story this way now in red, You will see how everything gets confused by all the posts in between. This is something I learned in the military, how to get the answers. I did change the Neo magnets out in my motor and it does make a big difference, "so no neos" in this one please. Get the facts straight and you will build this motor. Focus on what Mike said or "Fail" . Do not assume anything , Mike is thinking out of the box, Neo Magnets suck in this motor, trigger circuit now works fine in my set up, Next the SS solid state switch.
    John

    <O
    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O</O
    Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity
    <O</O
    <O</O
    I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.<O</O
    I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. <O</O
    Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O</O
    you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity<O</O
    When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O</O
    I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing <O</O
    I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. <O</O
    This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O</O
    I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.<O</O
    Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing<O</O
    I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O</O
    I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O</O
    what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O</O
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O</O
    -------------------------------------------------<O</O
    Now read it this way.<O</O
    John<O</O
    <O</O
    <O</O

    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O</O
    Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity<O</O
    I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O</O
    you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unityWhen you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O</O
    I learned alot from these illustrations, I think look at the commutator to see the timing the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O</O
    I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.<O</O
    I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O</O
    I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O</O
    what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O</O
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O</O

    Aaron Murakami

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Collecting the Data



    Originally posted by Aaron
    Aaron Murakami

    here it is from: http://www.energeticforum.com/john-b...tteries-2.html

    @all, this is what I posted way back on Energetic Forum in Feb 22, 2007:

    Bedini-Cole Window Motor Electric motor runs without draining batteries!!!
    Hi everyone,

    One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
    There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
    people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
    perpetual motion nuts.

    The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
    absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
    the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
    is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
    light on an amazing recent release.

    John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
    "Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
    because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
    known to man.

    Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
    geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
    in general.

    For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
    different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
    the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
    this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
    impossible.

    Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

    This is what it looks like:



    The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
    MOTOR DIAGRAMS AND LAB NOTES

    The schematics for this motor are here:



    Watch a demo video: The page cannot be found this is 12MB's long
    so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

    You can visit John's homepage here: Welcome to John Bedini

    Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
    hidded all over his websites. There are many.

    One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
    and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
    meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
    and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
    of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

    Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
    plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
    keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

    Here is what his looks like:



    Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




    Watch this video:

    YouTube

    How does it power itself???

    That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
    get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
    circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
    they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
    their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!

    Aaron Murakami

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Collection of facts.






    Originally posted by Aaron
    Analysis by John Bedini PART 1

    Analysis by John Bedini PART 1

    I'm posting some deductive reasoning by John Bedini that he posted
    online. These are the keys to making it work properly and his comments
    are an analysis on what Mike said about his modification of John's circuit.

    ----------------

    Everbody read Mike's story it will help.

    Everone just read mikes story
    John


    Hi Dom,

    wind your coil yet?, look for about 6-8 ohms on the main winding this gives a large back EMF wich charges the cap quick at first.
    I will try to attach the video of my window type motor now follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery.Also I made a mistake the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
    so 40-60 ohms sorry about that .No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not. If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

    Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)


    I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v
    glad to here that you have started construction allright after tracing all the wires I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

    Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.
    you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity.study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
    I go back to work one more thing before I go, When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly. This link is very good Schematics Illustrated must check it out

    I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing , the bad news, I left my window motor running last night. Now it does not run at all. I will check all components after work.I feel very disapointed. OK back from work now I check the motor. I did a quick visual inspection and it looks OK and the cap holds a charge but when I turn the shaft it does not run, more checks.


    I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.
    ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine, I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.This suxs .

    anyway I figured I would take some pictures of the stator and post soon This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile.
    Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil. I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.

    I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again. As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.
    Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing. yes the original circuit will charge the cap my modification charged the cap from 0v faster
    yes somthing is wrong with the cap. If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long and spark from discharge is week.Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030 also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

    maby another big cap will take its place. can run the motor now but only with battery power. back to where I started.

    I will get a hall sw at the local IC Supply store in the morning. any body have a running motor yet I know Dom looked realy close to finished.


    OK Stefan, on second look your circuit is correct. the ss relay on your circuit looked wrong but I see it now

    I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.
    still trying to get my motor to work correctly, It has prooven to be harder than I thought.
    I will post new scope shots soon

    I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.
    It makes me happy to see another window motor running.now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best. I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results
    4.5v ac main winding
    2.2v ac trigger winding
    2.8 v ac third winding
    stefan please show me were to place scope leeds on the diagram I posted Stefan please slow down the questions here are the scope shots you wanted

    Main is top trace on both 1st shot is the main and trigger windings 2nd shot is the main and third windings I will do more tomorrow I am waiting for a hall ic so please be patient

    OK guys I got the hall ic and the motor is working again here are the scope shots taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.

    scope set at 2v per div. at 10 ms per div. first shot is with hall sensor hooked up and the second is without it hooked up
    I have posted my full circuit diagram allready. but here it is again. i found this to work best for my setup.

    please follow it exactly making no changes so we can compare results taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.
    scope neg to cap neg no it will not run long without hall sensing. I pulled the hall output to ss relay, I spun it by hand for the scope shot (without hall ss relay)
    Lets build and then compare results I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

    When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.
    Hope this helps

    cheers mike


    Aaron Murakami

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Window Motor TidBits

    Hello Jeff
    There's been many different kinds of window motors built through the years. There have been some pretty good threads about them as well. I'm sorry to say I don't remember where they where to help you out with that. You will have some digging to do. I'll share a few of my experiences with you if it will help. There are pictures of a jig for winding coils. A rectangle coil is not the only coil to wind for a motor. If you are using three coils it is beneficial to use a wooden jig like is pictured in some of JB's literature. Again, I don't have instant reference to it but is is there. The issue of using an iron core or rotor is a mater of preference. I have used both iron and Delrin. I personally prefer a mild steel rotor. I do not use a hex shape and prefer to mill slots for the magnets. I'm not sure what you mean by a compound configuration but you should use six magnets with alternating poles outward on the faces. This is the best way to start but experimenting with what is known as a notch rotor also has some interesting results. Your windings can vary dramatically depending on what you are trying to accomplish. Higher turns ratios say in the 400 turns or more will give you a slower but stronger motor that is easy to trigger and has low current draw. Less turns say in the 200-300 turns area will give higher RPM's with less torque but higher current draw. The WM can run from an SSG, half wave, full wave or Single Coil Motor Circuit. In all cases you are not likely to have charging results that would be better than a monopole motor. I would suggest winding two triggers and one power coil or better yet add an additional power coil to experiment with a generator circuit. If you haven't been there yet, you are welcome to visit my channel where I have some videos of a small and very efficient motors. The first one shows how I constructed mine. Here are a few links:
    Window Motor Assembly And Capacitor Test - YouTube
    Window Motor Running On Capacitors - YouTube
    Window Motor On Water Battery & Solar + (Notch Rotor) - YouTube
    There is other videos that pertain to the window motors there as well. I hope something here might be of some use to you since you are just starting to learn about these fun motors. I will be posting some other videos soon with a different style motors running from a circuit that doesn't require a standard trigger source so you may want to check back later as well.
    Take care.
    John Hav

    So the first stage would be the SSG circuit (probably in GEN MODE), then the output of the ssg circuit would go to the cap that will power the bedini-cole circuit (that will give a really strong extra punch to the rotor if the cap is high in voltage and capacity), then I can use the output of the bedini-cole again, maybe to feed the bedini-cole cap or a second cap powering another bedini-cole.

    I know that the output of the SSG and the bedini cole is always less than what I put in, but let's say that with the ssg I get 3000 rpm, then with the output of the ssg into the bedini-cole I could get another 1500 rpm, and then another 750 rpm more, etc, etc. in 3 stages I could get 5000++ RPM using the same power.

    Then I am going to have regular generator coils to charge a 2nd battery. GEN COILS -> COMPARATOR CAP DUMP -> 2nd BATTERY.

    And I can probably also include some tesla nodes all over the place.

    I made a bedini-cole circuit the other day, and used the one in the image called 1GT, like the ferris wheel but with just power coil (ferris wheel used 3 parallel coils),

    basicly instead of the trigger winding it uses a hall sensor.

    that one is: 404 (Page Not Found) Error - Ever feel like you're in the wrong place?

    if you google "bedini-cole circuit" you will get a looooot of variants of the same circuit,

    I have an issue with the idea about running a ssg circuit, and send the recovery to a cap that would be the source for a bedini-cole circuit in the same rotor.

    The SSG circuit in radiant mode tuned to 1 pulse per magnet would give me a RPM of aprox 3200. but with the secondary circuit in place (bedini-cole) the RPM went down to 2000+ , so I started to try things to see what was causing the RPM loss... After some tests, it seems that the bedini-cole circuit is causing drag even if it is not triggered, is that normal???

    I connected the SSG circuit to run the rotor and the output of the ssg was sent to a comparator. Then I placed again the bedini-cole circuit with an empty cap as power source and the drag started again, there is power been sent to the primary of the bedini-cole when the rotor is spinning, by normal induction (the output of the bedini-cole was not connected to anything) I don't know why this is happening since the power coil is isolated from the power source (empty cap) by the 2 transistors. Could this be happening because of the reverse breakdown of the transistors???

    Any advice?


    best,

    Alvaro
    Originally posted by Gary

    Here you go.

    http://www.icehouse.net/john1/dsw1.jpg

    This is found under "Motor diagrams and lab Notes" on John's old "icehouse" web site JOHN BEDINI'S COLLECTION OF FREE ENERGY MACHINES

    Sequential Bipolar Switch - Commutator.jpg

    SequentialBipolarCircuit.jpg










    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-28-2015, 05:37 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    There is no better information than what John Bedini has.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3QHsoyGH5I

    When John approves the next video for a replication he

    deems comparable, then I will take note.

    John bedini has said many times when he pulled out of forums

    and groups that the stuff on the internet is not what he is doing.

    Or in other words, if I don't hear it from John Bedini then I

    think it is not completely a certified replicator.


    Unless I get it right from the horses mouth I won't know.


    It looks like I need to get my lathe warmed up cause John

    is in full swing again. As usual new things on the horizon.

    I am getting excited about this new design.


    And also a special thx to Aaron and all of the people

    who work with John to make these learning experiences

    possible.

    You guys are awesome folks, well worth the money.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Duplicated here: Building a window motor

    Thanks Aaron

    for the heads up. I went over there and looked at the posts

    and I could not find a window motor video by anyone of the

    replicators. Maybe I missed it? Also unless you sign in as a member

    that information in picture form is confidential.

    I am glad for the text.

    I will go back and look to see if I can open a picture or find

    a video presentation showing how their particular replication

    of the JOHN BEDINI WINDOW MOTOR working, because that is

    what it takes.

    BRB


    Okay I found a DADHAV video from 2010?
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-28-2015, 03:00 AM.

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