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Motor/Generator--Window Motor based design

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  • Motor/Generator--Window Motor based design

    Hi everyone,

    I have been working with my friend on a motor/generator that will have some special concepts incorporated. I mainly do the mechanical design and he does the electronic part, so my description will be on a general basis for the electronic implementation of the drive and coils setup.

    The motor has a 1/2" main shaft from welded steel tubing and it is hanging on 1/2" ball bearings. The rotor is 6 1/2" diameter by 6" long with 8 6"X2"X1/2" ceramic grade 8 magnets.

    The drive will be from 3 special design coils, matched to the magnet size, as the electronic pulsing circuit is a 3 phases unit using 3 hall effect sensors. The pulses are composed of 2 components, a primary pulse and within that pulse, a second pulsing circuit fills each of those pulses with 3k pulses per sec hash signal. It is very efficient as the tryout on a prototype got us 1,200 rpm from a 24V DC source at 0.137 Amp. The RPM can be adjusted up to 6,000 rpm. It will have 12 to 18 small pickup coils. On initial trials from the prototype, we had an output of 10V AC (Edit: That is 10 V DC, sorry for the mistake) at 0.72 Amp from one identically sized coil. Promising indeed.

    I will try to post more pictures as I finalize the first of two identical units.

    That is all for now, take care,

    Michel
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Michelinho; 05-02-2009, 01:13 PM.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

  • #2
    Drive circuit.

    Hi all,

    The rotor will be covered with a fiberglass coating to prevent any magnet from flying off, then the rotor will be balanced.

    A little more information on the drive circuit (a few will figure out how it works as I only have a vague idea):

    Main part numbers:

    1X MC33035P CPPAA9934
    1X JM830AF LMC6034IN
    1X JM830AD LMC6034IN
    1X 74HC4066N C8610PS HNN9948 E
    2x HM93AL LM 555CN
    6X SEC 832 IRF530A
    + a few more small ICs

    3 Hall effect sensors mounted around the main shaft will receive the signal from a small magnetic rotor mounted on the main shaft to trigger the Hall Effect sensors.

    A little information on the drive coils and output coils:

    3 rectangular coils slightly longer and wider than the ceramic magnets. In each of these coils, 3 small rectangular output coils that will capture the magnetic flux from the drive coil and magnet as it passes, giving a higher output, and more standalone small output coils around the stator.

    When this is done, I will post a few more pictures.

    Take care,

    Michel
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

    Comment


    • #3
      Quick update.

      Hi all,

      The fiberglass belt covering the magnets on the rotor is done. Next step will be to balance the rotor and paint it. The electronic was tested on the prototype, the small magnetic rotor for the Hall Effect sensors is drilled to the size of the main shaft and ready to assemble when the time comes.

      Take care,

      Michel
      Attached Files
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

      Comment


      • #4
        Looking good Michel!

        Just wondering why you are using ceramic instead of neo's? Are all your magnets north facing out? Also curious where or how you plan on getting your rotor balanced. Thanks and keep up the good work.

        Comment


        • #5
          Static balancing.

          Hi Mark,

          I use ceramic magnets because at first it was suppose to be a Bedini window motor but after a few tests, some knowledge from early 20th century books and the availability of a high efficiency electronic drive circuit we found a way to improve on the original. Will it be better, we certainly hope so from the prototype we built. Another reason is I think the same as to why Bedini only uses ceramic magnets: neodymium magnets has a diode effect in certain applications or so I was told(true or not, I have not grasp that concept yet).

          The first measurements although done with a digital multimeter instead of the oscilloscope show a ratio of 2:1 in output using only one small coil. The drive circuit used around 3.3 watts and one output coil giving about 7.8 watts. Those were rough measurements. The output coil being placed inside the drive coil doubles its output and we can place 3 of those inside each drive coil. So 9 high output coils plus up to 15 low output coils that will be set in the 5 remaining open section of the stator should theoretically improve that ratio.

          The drive circuit is special as it give an adaptive composite pulse (pulses inside a pulse). Longer when starting and speeding up and getting shorter until it reaches the maximum rpm speed setting. It is also error correcting. And the best reason, we had 3 for FREE and free is good. They come from scrapped breathing assist machines used in hospitals. The only bad thing we thought it had was the mosfet output section but the heatsink didn't even get warm while driving the prototype.

          The magnets are set like the window motor, alternating north and south but we used 8 instead of 6 for the Bedini motor. The rotor will get a static balance, so far I have had good results with that as dynamic balancing is more complex. The rotor being short, static should be fine. So far I get a good balance with 75gr of lead weight added, the rotor weight in at near 9 lb. I was a diesel mechanic first class so I touched everything from tires to full electrical rewiring of heavy haulers. All our wheels were done using a static balancing machine and I used it on many occasions.

          If you need more info or have more questions, I will try as best as I can to give precise answers.

          Take care,

          Michel
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

          Comment


          • #6
            The Prototype.

            Hi everyone,

            This post is to present you the prototype on which we based our research for the present built.

            The rotor is slightly larger than the one I am building at the moment but does have the same magnets placed in the same configuration and has about the same weight. You can see the drive coils, the large rectangular ones, that come from a few Apple/Sony monitors I took apart, they are the original degauss coils (2 small ones in each monitors). You can also see the output coil we used set inside the drive coil to obtain the measured readings I mentioned in the first post, also comes from those monitors. None of the coils were optimized for the motor.

            In the third picture, you see the Hall Effect sensor assembly with the small magnetic rotor to trigger it. You also see the drive circuit, which is the same as the above post but has less functions which are not used for this motor/generator design.

            What makes this whole concept efficient is because it is a crossbreed of a Bedini Window motor and a Bedini "Watson" machine. The heavy rotor act as a flywheel, pulse DC motor and the output coils all in one compact unit. If anyone was wondering why we got more out than in, I believe this is the reason plus the output coil being placed inside the drive coil for the extra bursts, 5V DC after rectification placed outside the drive coil, 10V DC after rectification inside the drive coil.

            So replication should be pretty straightforward except for the drive circuit. I did not check on the internet but circuit based on the same chips should be readily available.

            I'll be back with more pictures and comments as this built progresses.

            Take care,

            Michel
            Attached Files
            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

            Comment


            • #7
              Drive coil winder.

              Hi everyone,

              Another update to show the drive coil winder that I just finished. The two spools on the back will be filled with AWG24 magnet wire from the Apple/Sony degauss coils. They will be mounted on a spinning disk to twist the bifilar magnet wire.

              They will be 100 turns bifilar and should give about 8 Ohms each compared to the 2.7 Ohms monofilar that was used on the prototype. Measurements for the final drive coils will be 6 1/2" X 3" and will be "V" angled on the 3" sides for mounting on the stator with wire plastic clamps and brass screws.

              That's all for now,

              Michel

              Edit: The output coils will also be bifilar.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Michelinho; 05-02-2009, 01:20 PM.
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

              Comment


              • #8
                Magnet wire twisting contraption.

                Hi everyone,

                After making a drive coil winder, I had to build a contraption that would twist the magnet wire for the bifilar coil. I have plenty of wood, some 5/16" threaded rod with nuts, a carriage bolt 1/4" and a nylon lock nut and a piece of 3/8" copper pipe for the handle. This is what came out after a few hours of tinkering. The spool external wood was rubbed with wax and the tension is adjustable with nuts and a little locktite to prevent the tension from easing or tightening.

                It is easy to make and quite useful. I can even make it a 4 spool twister if need be. So if you ever need one, save those pictures for model.

                You can see the 2 first drive coil made withe the tools made for this project. one is 11.7 Ohms and the other 11.9 Ohms. When all 3 are made, I can unwind a few strands to adjust the load for the drive circuit.

                Take care all,

                Michel
                Attached Files
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                Comment


                • #9
                  Are you sure you want to twist the wires for your coils? My understanding is they don't work as well with a window motor style construction.

                  Looks good so far!

                  I would like to build a large window motor also and have been looking for a aluminum car wheels to use as my rotor. I own an automotive repair shop and after mounting the magnets I could balance the assembly on my wheel balancer and mount the wheel on a cheap hub assembly. I need to find the right size wheel so those big 6" magnets will drop down inside the lip of the rim.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Twisted wire.

                    Hi Mark,

                    I don't know if twisting wire would be detrimental to a window motor but the coils on the one I am building is not set as the Bedini Window motor. He uses a single coil that surrounds the entire motor, our coils only surround 1 magnet on the rotor each. They are much smaller and many times more efficient that the Bedini design.

                    Bedini collects from the drive coil and we collect only from separate output coils (for now)* set inside the perimeter of the drive coil giving twice the output of regularly placed coils. We will also use more coils outside those coils.

                    Only the rotor is similar to Bedini Window motor, the rest is totaly different.

                    Take care,

                    Michel

                    * We are planning to use the data from the MC33035 chip to pulse drive the motor and then at a certain moment cut the pulse and collect from the drive coils but that is my friend's job to implement. That chip is loaded with data signals we can access. Check the data sheet for that chip, really neat.
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Michel

                      I think my last SSG was similar to what your making. My coils didn't go around the whole rotor either. I used small trifilar air coils around 2 inches in diameter. Used the sequentail full circuit and the 21194 and 3's My rotor used supper pole configuration. Had good speed of 4500 rpm at .250amp.

                      I never thought of putting a series of air coils between my drive coil. Good Idea! There are so many ways to play. My next step is to build a huge rotor.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Update on the built.

                        Hi everyone,

                        The motor/generator is coming along fine, the rotor is balanced and painted, the new motor end plates are done and also the drive coil brackets(dowel). A coat of polymer has been applied and just the timing adjustment to finish before I install the coils, electronic sensors and module.

                        Here are a few pictures of the current status of the build.

                        Take care,

                        Michel
                        Attached Files
                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hall Effect sensor module and drive circuit.

                          Hi everyone,

                          Another step is done.

                          Last night I finished the timing control, installed it and set the Hall Effect module on the timing control. I can vary the timing 120 degrees while the motor is running. I still have to drill the small magnetic rotor and install it on the shaft to pulse the hall effect sensors, set the drive coil, install the connector blocks, connect the wiring and the motor part will be done.

                          We will test if for a week then add the alternator output coils and retest it for performance.

                          Some picture of the motor/generator as it stands at this hour.

                          Take care,

                          Michel
                          Attached Files
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Very nice Michel. Can't wait to see some test results, GOOD LUCK!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Balancing.

                              I did the balancing of the rotor. I spin it by hand to about 300 rpm and lift the unit off the table and it does not vibrate. We will see soon how it will react when pushed to 2,500 rpm or more.

                              Thanks and take care,

                              Michel
                              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                              Comment

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