Resonant mode Bedini SG with switch

[ren]

What would be the point, surely it would be better to have the coil self-oscillating the whole time. Then you can do away with the magnets all together.

It depends Dambit. What is your primary purpose? Charging a battery with no need for mechanical of any sort? Then yes, self oscillating coil would be better. Your comments above state that the solidstate charger seems stronger, or more efficient. Not an incorrect assumption, but not necessarily correct. Lol I know that sounds funny, but think of this. How many inductive spikes a second does your wheel create, versus how many the solidstate creates? We are talking about frequency here, and as you know, JB has said you want to do this as fast as you can as many times as you can.



The magnets do add a certain element to this, has anyone measured the inductance of their coil with and without a magnet present? I have to disagree with the magnet being the "answer" however. I think the real answer is "resonance." That is where the losses in the system are minimised and the gains come from.

[dambit]

It depends Dambit. What is your primary purpose? Charging a battery with no need for mechanical of any sort? Then yes, self oscillating coil would be better. Your comments above state that the solidstate charger seems stronger, or more efficient. Not an incorrect assumption, but not necessarily correct. Lol I know that sounds funny, but think of this. How many inductive spikes a second does your wheel create, versus how many the solidstate creates? We are talking about frequency here, and as you know, JB has said you want to do this as fast as you can as many times as you can.

Hi Ren,

I have attached a few pics of my wave forms and setup. When The coil is operating normaly, ie with the magnets etc, it draws just over 800 mA @ 24V and outputs 400 mA into a 12V battery (I know the output is not what we are looking for, but I still measure it anyway). The output drops down to 200mA when the output battery is 24V.

Now, when the unit is in self-oscillation, yes the frequency is faster but not heaps faster. Also, the unit draws and puts out exactly double its usual amounts.

The settings on the scope are 1ms time intervals and 5V intervals


As a side question. JB's two leveled enegizer shown in the DVD, he mentions that it has oscillators, do you know anything about that?

Cheers,

Steve.

P.S to get these pics I have to move the coil and circuits to where my scope is, and therefor had to use a wheel with neos on it. The result isn't too different from when I use my other magnets.

[darkwizard]

The primary point: all the heaviside flow, that is magnetic flux that the coil sends to the proximities at the moment that it is ON, becomes a big north pole magnet when you shut off the coil, in other words you create a north pole when you shut off the coil, this north pole becomes radiant energy inside the coil because move electrons with high potential energy, if you hit the radiant spike with a true north pole magnet, you overpotentialize the electrons.

The north pole magnet creates an electric field in the copper wire, the big "heaviside-radiant" north pole magnet that you created when you turn ON the coil, becomes an electric field in the copper wire when you shut OFF the coil, the two things becomes one thing and you have real energy electrons in order to charge a battery.

Electric field generated by the heaviside flow + electric field generated by the magnet = Total electric field inside the coil.

Imagine a car that is pulled by his own motor and a horse in the front side.

The car is the electron, the motor (100 hp) is the radiant energy, the horse (1hp) is the magnet.

The system losses are 0.5 hp by the fact of friction, but you put in 1hp from the horse, that is a gain of 0.5 hp and is real overunity.

In the car ,the total work resulting is 99.5 hp , but by the fact that the car is being pulled by a horse, you have 100.5 hp.

[Joit]

Go and try and Build and post Report, not bark like a Dog, you Master of Magnetism.

[darkwizard]

I can`t hear you. Build a big SG, not a voltage elevator.

[Shamus]

Hi Dambit,

I think I can answer your side question, as for the longest time I was wondering that myself after building a replica of that jobby. And the answer is: it all depends on what you put on the back end. The circuits are all bog standard SG circuits with all the power and radiant output summed together. If you have a fairly high impedance on the back end, you'll get some self-oscillation going when you hook up the front end battery. For the longest time I could never get that initial squeal that John got on the DVD no matter what battery I put on the back end but I finally got it to happen when I hooked up some electrodes sitting in a glass of water. I guess I never had a really sulfated battery to work with on the back end to have it go into self-oscillation.

[dambit]

Hi Dambit,

I think I can answer your side question, as for the longest time I was wondering that myself after building a replica of that jobby. And the answer is: it all depends on what you put on the back end. The circuits are all bog standard SG circuits with all the power and radiant output summed together. If you have a fairly high impedance on the back end, you'll get some self-oscillation going when you hook up the front end battery. For the longest time I could never get that initial squeal that John got on the DVD no matter what battery I put on the back end but I finally got it to happen when I hooked up some electrodes sitting in a glass of water. I guess I never had a really sulfated battery to work with on the back end to have it go into self-oscillation.

Hi Shamus,

Thanks for you answer. I too have not put a heavily sulphated battery on the back end yet, only partially sulphated ones. These quickly shoot up to well over there nominal voltage, ie. 18-20V for one of my 12V bateries, then they gradually come down to normal voltages. I have yet to hear the squeal with these though. Did you use distilled water or normal tap water? I tried with tap water, but all my neons lit up. & no squeal.

Cheers,

Steve

[Shamus]

Well, I have a few machines to test this on and the only one I was able to get that phenomenon to work was on the 4PMP (4-pole monopole) replication. I used filtered tap water. I tried it on the quintfilar but got lots of neon glow there--I was too chicken to let it spin up to full speed. Likewise, it was no go on the solid state, but that could be because it's a cap dump circuit instead of (nearly) continuous radiant energy like on the SSG based circuits.

I'm not sure what the answer is, just thought I'd share my observations with that particular machine.