12V, 12Ah battery runs 24W LED for 2 months+

[ET-Power]

Has anyone tried running down a single conditioned/energized battery?

What were your results?

In one of my experiments I used a 12V, 12Ah battery that had been energized 16 - 18 hrs/day for 4 - 6 months. I touched the + and - together numerous times to try to run down the battery. After a while I got tired so I took a 12V 2A (24W) LED and attached it with the intention that it would stop lighting up in about 5 - 6 hours time. Little did I know this little battery that could has kept the 24W LED lit for well over 2 months 24/7 with no additional input, no waving of magnets over the batteries, etc... it has totally been left alone since getting hooked up to the 24W LED.

The battery has been sitting at a low 6._ _V for two weeks and really isn't budging much. This LED was set in closed loop with a single battery and LED.

HAS ANYONE HAD EXPERIENCES OF WATTS CALCULATED FOR A FEW HOURS OR DAYS AND IT LASTS WEEKS/MONTHS? THAT MUCH RADIANT ENERGY ENTERING INTO THE BATTERY!?!?!?!?!

Would love to hear similar experiences, thank you!

[bistander]

More info, please

Has anyone tried running down a single conditioned/energized battery?

What were your results?

In one of my experiments I used a 12V, 12Ah battery that had been energized 16 - 18 hrs/day for 4 - 6 months. I touched the + and - together numerous times to try to run down the battery. After a while I got tired so I took a 12V 2A (24W) LED and attached it with the intention that it would stop lighting up in about 5 - 6 hours time. Little did I know this little battery that could has kept the 24W LED lite for well over 2 months 24/7 with no additional input, no waving of magnets over the batteries, etc... it has totally been left alone since getting hooked up to the 24W LED.

The battery has been sitting at a low 6._ _V for two weeks and really is budging much. This LED was set in closed loop with a single battery and LED.

HAS ANYONE HAD EXPERIENCES OF WATTS CALCULATED FOR A FEW HOURS OR DAYS AND IT LASTS WEEKS/MONTHS? THAT MUCH RADIANT ENERGY ENTERING INTO THE BATTERY!?!?!?!?!

Would love to hear similar experiences, thank you!

Hi,

Would you please post pictures of your battery and LED, along with the brand, part # and specifications?

Thanks,

bi

[ET-Power]

Pics as requested, sorry I didn't put them in upon posting....

I am new to this whole forum thing and posting pics/videos w/ HTML Links, if you can not view them, please let me know.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-x...ew?usp=sharing
(above picture taken during the day)
This voltage was around 7.5V and it was 6 weeks into the test. KEEP IN MIND, I tried discharging the battery for a few minutes by connecting - and + before even hooking the LED up.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-x...ew?usp=sharing
(above picture taken during the day)
The voltage was 6.47V and this was 7 - 8 weeks into the experiment.

As you can see in the pictures:
Battery is 12V, 12Ah AGM Lead Acid KEYKO Brand
LED is 12V, 2A (24W) with 60 LEDs

THIS WAS AN ACCIDENTAL DISCOVERY, I NEVER INTENDED THE LED TO BE LIT MORE THAN 5 - 6 HOURS AT MOST! Moreover, for the first 2 weeks I was sending it energy telling it to "die" so that I could get on with the other experiment I wanted to do which is why I was attempting to fully discharge the battery in the first place. Therefore, I was not conducting an unbiased experiment to begin with. That is important to note, it still has been the little energizer battery that can even with my intentions of it running down for over 2 weeks lol

Please let me know what other specifications you would like.

[bistander]

Actual amps

Thanks ET,

Can you take a measurement of the current and voltage with the LEDs and battery?

bi

[ET-Power]

I need an analog ammeter

I have a UNI-T UT204A Multi Meter at the house and I DO NOT trust the amp readings on this as the setting options are for 40A or 600A and historically I've gotten readings I don't trust with my earth batteries and other experiments that read different than my other meters.

I trust it's reading on volts, just not on amps. I have additional digital meters at the warehouse with a max of 10A and historically those amp measurements have read true.

I also have analog ammeters at the warehouse but they're for very high amps not milliamps or only a few amps.

It is reading 0.25 - 0.3A at 6.01V

I will be getting analog ammeters and my digital ones with smaller amp reading scale over the next 7 - 10 days and update you then on current status with the appropriate tools.

SINCERELY SORRY I am not able to give wholly accurate readings at this time.

Thank you for your interest, enjoy!

[evostars]

Has anyone tried running down a single conditioned/energized battery?

What were your results?

In one of my experiments I used a 12V, 12Ah battery that had been energized 16 - 18 hrs/day for 4 - 6 months. I touched the + and - together numerous times to try to run down the battery. After a while I got tired so I took a 12V 2A (24W) LED and attached it with the intention that it would stop lighting up in about 5 - 6 hours time. Little did I know this little battery that could has kept the 24W LED lit for well over 2 months 24/7 with no additional input, no waving of magnets over the batteries, etc... it has totally been left alone since getting hooked up to the 24W LED.

The battery has been sitting at a low 6._ _V for two weeks and really isn't budging much. This LED was set in closed loop with a single battery and LED.

HAS ANYONE HAD EXPERIENCES OF WATTS CALCULATED FOR A FEW HOURS OR DAYS AND IT LASTS WEEKS/MONTHS? THAT MUCH RADIANT ENERGY ENTERING INTO THE BATTERY!?!?!?!?!

Would love to hear similar experiences, thank you!

Well, I noticed, a LED will light up with insane low current, as long as there is enough voltage. Specialy a LED without a resistor. basicly its a crystal (diode) that lights up, when it has enough voltage. the current makes it really bright, but it will be glowing dim, with almost no current. So i guess, it could take a long time.

[evostars]

I have a UNI-T UT204A Multi Meter at the house and I DO NOT trust the amp readings on this as the setting options are for 40A or 600A and historically I've gotten readings I don't trust with my earth batteries and other experiments that read different than my other meters.

I trust it's reading on volts, just not on amps. I have additional digital meters at the warehouse with a max of 10A and historically those amp measurements have read true.

I also have analog ammeters at the warehouse but they're for very high amps not milliamps or only a few amps.

It is reading 0.25 - 0.3A at 6.01V

I will be getting analog ammeters and my digital ones with smaller amp reading scale over the next 7 - 10 days and update you then on current status with the appropriate tools.

SINCERELY SORRY I am not able to give wholly accurate readings at this time.

Thank you for your interest, enjoy!

If you put a 1 ohm (precision rated, and capable of the power) in series, than you can measure the voltage over it, and it will be the same as the amperage.

[bistander]

Battery tests

My CO detector uses a small 9V battery. The rectangular shaped one with snaps for terminals. Been 3 or 4 years since I installed that battery and the little red LED is bright as the day I did.

LED is a diode and has a forward voltage drop of ~0.7V. If the supply voltage is higher, like 12V, then a current limiting resistor is put in series with the diode (LED). The ohmic value of the resistor is chosen to drop 11.3V (in this case) at rated current. As the battery voltage drops with discharge, the voltage across the resistor drops and the current goes down. The diode drop remains the same at 0.7V. This essentially continues forever with lower and lower voltage drop across the resistor and lower and lower current through the diode allthewhile approaching the 0.7V diode junction asymptotically. At some point the visible light from the diode will disappear and battery will sit at 0.7V. Discharged completely for any practical purpose.

I've tested many batteries. For 12V lead-acid I typically use 10 or 10.5 Volts as the end of test (EOT) for capacity testing (Ah or Wh). And always use actual measured current and voltage at regularly timed intervals so piecewise integration can be done to calculate charge and energy.

bi

[gyula]

My CO detector uses a small 9V battery. The rectangular shaped one with snaps for terminals. Been 3 or 4 years since I installed that battery and the little red LED is bright as the day I did.

LED is a diode and has a forward voltage drop of ~0.7V.
...

Hi Bistander,

I found a red color LED has a minimum of 1.55-1.6 V voltage drop when only 1-2 mA or less is allowed to pass through on it in forward direction. This can easily be checked with a DMM if it has a Diode symbol either within its OHMS measuring range or separately.
The 0.7V you say sounds too low for a red LED if this is what you meant. Unless you actually measured the 0.7V across it with a DMM voltage meter because in this case your red LED is a very unique type.
For those wishing to learn some more info on forward voltage drops across the different types and color LEDs at 20mA forward current, here is a link:
Technical LED Color Chart

Sorry to interrupt the thread with this.

Gyula

[bistander]

LED characteristics

Hi Bistander,

I found a red color LED has a minimum of 1.55-1.6 V voltage drop when only 1-2 mA or less is allowed to pass through on it in forward direction. This can easily be checked with a DMM if it has a Diode symbol either within its OHMS measuring range or separately.
The 0.7V you say sounds too low for a red LED if this is what you meant. Unless you actually measured the 0.7V across it with a DMM voltage meter because in this case your red LED is a very unique type.
For those wishing to learn some more info on forward voltage drops across the different types and color LEDs at 20mA forward current, here is a link:
Technical LED Color Chart

Sorry to interrupt the thread with this.

Gyula

Thanks. Good info. I was just using the standard silicon semiconducter junction drop for example purpose. I should have mentioned that. Obviously the LEDs are different semiconductor material. Just substitute the 1.5V (or whatever value for your particular LED) for the 0.7V that I mistakenly used.

Thanks again,

bi

[ET-Power]

Well, I noticed, a LED will light up with insane low current, as long as there is enough voltage. Specialy a LED without a resistor. basicly its a crystal (diode) that lights up, when it has enough voltage. the current makes it really bright, but it will be glowing dim, with almost no current. So i guess, it could take a long time.

Thank you for that and the 1 ohm test, didn't know that before, thank you!

We're into week 9+ and still going but it's getting really dim now, shouldn't be too much longer and I think it will fail to be lit because it's set for 12V due to the series connection of the 60 LEDS

THANKS!

[ET-Power]

Thank you!

My CO detector uses a small 9V battery. The rectangular shaped one with snaps for terminals. Been 3 or 4 years since I installed that battery and the little red LED is bright as the day I did.

LED is a diode and has a forward voltage drop of ~0.7V. If the supply voltage is higher, like 12V, then a current limiting resistor is put in series with the diode (LED). The ohmic value of the resistor is chosen to drop 11.3V (in this case) at rated current. As the battery voltage drops with discharge, the voltage across the resistor drops and the current goes down. The diode drop remains the same at 0.7V. This essentially continues forever with lower and lower voltage drop across the resistor and lower and lower current through the diode allthewhile approaching the 0.7V diode junction asymptotically. At some point the visible light from the diode will disappear and battery will sit at 0.7V. Discharged completely for any practical purpose.

I've tested many batteries. For 12V lead-acid I typically use 10 or 10.5 Volts as the end of test (EOT) for capacity testing (Ah or Wh). And always use actual measured current and voltage at regularly timed intervals so piecewise integration can be done to calculate charge and energy.

bi

Thank you very much for this additional information!

It's interesting, I hadn't come across the 10 - 10.5 EOT before until your post I am now reading and was reading some of JB's tests earlier today and came across it there as well.

Thank you for the intel!

[ET-Power]

Thanks Gyula!

Hi Bistander,

I found a red color LED has a minimum of 1.55-1.6 V voltage drop when only 1-2 mA or less is allowed to pass through on it in forward direction. This can easily be checked with a DMM if it has a Diode symbol either within its OHMS measuring range or separately.
The 0.7V you say sounds too low for a red LED if this is what you meant. Unless you actually measured the 0.7V across it with a DMM voltage meter because in this case your red LED is a very unique type.
For those wishing to learn some more info on forward voltage drops across the different types and color LEDs at 20mA forward current, here is a link:
Technical LED Color Chart

Sorry to interrupt the thread with this.

Gyula

Thank you Gyula! No interruption at all, appreciate the info and link shared!

[ET-Power]

Thank you all for contributing!

Greatly appreciate all of the insights shared from you all, thank you!

Please excuse my few day delay in response, things have been crazy on my end.

So as stated at the beginning of the post, this was an accidental discovery (the energized battery lasting longer than expected).... Next time I will properly plan out and make sure to test periodically amps and volts with analog meters as I trust them more. Moreover, I presume using a bulb other than LED would likely be better for the experiment as well.

Thank you all for the information shared!

[wrtner]

If you put a 1 ohm (precision rated, and capable of the power) in series, than you can measure the voltage over it, and it will be the same as the amperage.

Will that ohms rating suit the circuit?

Another copper bottomed way to measure power is to get a resistive load of suitable ohms across the output instead of the LEDs. Put the resistors in a glass of water, paying attention to insulation, and measure the temperature rise over a period of time. This only works well for a fairly high power output.