3 Battery Generating System

[Iamnuts]

Amazing!

Just amazed by the numbers.

ABB has just booked the first thyristor orders for a 10-gigawatt HVDC line in China – that is, 10,000,000,000 watts of power in a single installation, with a conversion efficiency beyond 99.6%. This is substantially more than the total energy consumption of Switzerland. Each device has the capacity to conduct 6,250 amperes, and will have blocking capability of 7,200 volts. Under normal operating conditions, a single component will switch more than 20 MW of power.

[Iamnuts]

Revolution Green.

Interesting advance.

Called HyMag, the invention can benefit virtually any technology that draws power from electric motors or generates power from generators. The former includes battery-powered equipment and devices, such as power tools, wheelchairs, golf carts and electric and hybrid vehicles. The latter includes standby power for business and offshore wind turbines.
When designed properly, the gain in the magnet’s usable flux density ranges from 10 to 30 percent, depending on the application and working temperatures, said HyMag’s inventors, Argonne’s Kaizhong Gao and Yuepeng Zhang.
“This additional efficiency will translate into either more energy produced or you will have less loss,” said Gao, group leader of Nanomaterials, Devices, and Systems at Argonne.
HyMag could especially benefit a weight-sensitive application, such as wind turbines, because the technology’s higher efficiency could lead to downsized structures. Stronger magnets would, for example, make it possible to reduce the amount of weight-bearing and support materials of the outer casings that sit atop direct-drive wind turbines. The outer casings account for more than half the weight of a 100– to 130-ton wind tower. Smaller casings could be designed into taller towers, allowing the turbines to access stronger winds.

[Iamnuts]

Tesla motor.

Efficiency.

One of those things has to do with the motor design. According to Munro, the Model 3’s motivator takes advantage of Halbach arrays, which produces a stronger-than-normal field on one side of the magnet while reducing the other side to near zero. It’s pretty technical, but the final result is, compared with motors in competitors such as the Chevy Bolt and BMW i3 (vehicles Munro has also completed teardowns of), the unit is smaller, lighter, more powerful, and more efficient. To boot, it’s also cheaper.

[Iamnuts]

Honda.

I’ve just been looking at a cut-away pic of a Honda hybrid motor.
It looks to me as if they are using oblong section wire for the windings.
I presume this is to produce a really compact winding which would give
a more concentrated field and an overall smaller motor.

[Aaron]

off topic?

I’ve just been looking at a cut-away pic of a Honda hybrid motor.
It looks to me as if they are using oblong section wire for the windings.
I presume this is to produce a really compact winding which would give
a more concentrated field and an overall smaller motor.

What do your last several posts have to do with this 3 Battery discussion?

[Iamnuts]

Ignore.

Aaron, either read and learn or ignore.
Down on the farm we use SLA’s to maintain blood samples whilst in
transit. Each battery is logged and recharged. Maximum number of
uses is 5, then they are scrapped. If they’re allowed to go below 11.8v
they’re also out.
I’ve been interested in this topic for more than 10 years now and am
asking-has there been any progress?
Thyristors are brilliant bits of kit and enable the designer to do what
was once almost unimaginable.
Auto makers are using cutting edge technology in motor design and
smaller,cheaper and more efficient magnets are an important part.
Auto makers and phone makers are all up there when it comes to
battery management systems. I picked up an old phone my son had
ceased using,at least 5 years ago-and its still on that original batttery.
As far as my own switching system goes I soon found out that normal
relays were robbing my battery, SSR’s did heat under higher loads as
they’re never100% switched on and the Arduino was far too greedy.
I ended up deciding that 30amp bistable EMR’s were the solution,they
just need a tickle and that’s all, no more wasted juice or heating.
I find it rather sad that quite a few guys are getting egged on to spend
their hard earned,and time, building inefficient,inappropriate systems
and ruining batteries to boot.

[axxelxavier]

Results from 3BGS Inverter test

Finally, i can present my results from 3BGS inverter test...
But first, let me remind you my setup: 3 x 40 Amp Deep Cycle bats , a HQ 300 watt inverter (low voltage limit = 9,6 volt, idle current draw - 200 mA), and the load - 3 Led Bulbs, with a 2,070 Amp current draw. The load was used only at night, for a real day-by-day use.
Total Run was 37 Hours, 07 min, Rest time was 87 hours.

[bistander]

Comparison

Finally, i can present my results from 3BGS inverter test...
But first, let me remind you my setup: 3 x 40 Amp Deep Cycle bats , a HQ 300 watt inverter (low voltage limit = 9,6 volt, idle current draw - 200 mA), and the load - 3 Led Bulbs, with a 2,070 Amp current draw. The load was used only at night, for a real day-by-day use.
Total Run was 37 Hours, 07 min, Rest time was 87 hours.

This ^^^, compared to:

...
L.E. OK, so here are the results of second test:
40 Amp Deep Cycle Battery, discharged normally at 2,07 Amp/h down to 11,00 volt - RUN TIME: 18 Hours, 39 MIN, REST TIME: 32 Hours, 19 min Battery was used for lighting one room during night, with 3 led bulbs hooked to an inverter, so this is why it takes 4 days. In attachment, you have all the data.
It is time to start tests in 3BGS configuration + inverter, with 2 Batteries fully charged, and this depleted batt. I hope in this configuration it would last for more than 36 hours...
I'll be back with more results.

Best regards,
Teodor

2 times 18h39m = 37h18m. Very close to 37h07m in the second test.

Regards,

bi

[axxelxavier]

According to those numbers, my 3BGS inverter setup was nothing special, so using the batteries in 3BGS configuration or just hooking all batteries in parallel, would have the same result.
Resting time helped batteries to recover some energy, that is for sure.
It was a long test, because all reading was manually made, but I enjoy it.
Anyway, I wanted to share my result with you all.
It is time to test something different, this one was a bit disappointing...

L.E.
@Bi, I see your post now. I didn't manage to make a single post, because I can't upload all pictures together.
Yes, The results are very similar, so short say: no gain, nothing special using only the inverter, at least for my setup. Maybe somebody with bigger Trojan batteries can tell us more...

Best Regards.

[hherby]

3BGS inverter tests

Hi axxelxavier,
What was your circuit setup and did you rotate the batteries?
Thanks,
Alex

[axxelxavier]

Finally, i can present my results from 3BGS inverter test...
But first, let me remind you my setup: 3 x 40 Amp Deep Cycle bats , a HQ 300 watt inverter (low voltage limit = 9,6 volt, idle current draw - 200 mA), and the load - 3 Led Bulbs, with a 2,070 Amp current draw. The load was used only at night, for a real day-by-day use.
Total Run was 37 Hours, 07 min, Rest time was 87 hours.

@Alex, above are my setup info. I did not use a booster, I wasn't necessary, because my inverter have a very low voltage limit and also because the booster add some loses in system.
Yes, batteries was rotated. If you look at the pictures, number of the batteries (upper left of the image) differ from image to image.
In fact, each images represent the stage of battery rotations.
All data was inserted in excel for precis calculation, and, of course, for the graphic representations.
First battery setup was the longest one - 13 hour 47 min, followed by the third rotation - 7 Hours, 44 min.
In the end, because the cycle time was so short (@ 30 min), I decided to drain conventionally the power left in battery 1 and 2. It was @ 30 min for each battery.
Best regards,
Teodor

[Turion]

Boost Module

I keep saying the same things over and over, and nobody listens. I have done the EXACT experiment you just tried dozens of times.

The boost module has a PURPOSE. It raises the voltage coming out of the inverter to 2.5 volts OR MORE over the standing voltage of the 3rd battery. This is NECESSARY for proper charging. Without it, you will never see success. Never. Not ever. None. Zip. Zilch. Nada. As I have said dozens of times before.

As a matter of interest: Bob French lived in a small house with a solar system and ran a 3 Battery/ Inverter (solar) system for MONTHS (before he moved to Mexico) as his ONLY source if power. He could give you a real long term evaluation of the PRACTICAL uses and APPLICATION of such a system. Bob ran an inverter BETWEEN the output of the solar system and his batteries as they were charging, and then another inverter off the batteries themselves once charged. It nearly DOUBLED the amount of power (in terms of hours of actual USE) he got out of the system in a day. Previous to setting it up that way he would run out of power. After setting it up that way he never did. At least not as long as there was SUN. How do you get the output from your solar charger to be high enough to both run the inverter AND charge the batteries? You use a BOOST module to up the output voltage to give you the potential difference necessary to run the inverter, just like the 3 battery system. Which is why I brought this up in the first place.

[Turion]

Boost module.

Running an inverter between the positives you are hitting battery 3 with 12 volts to begin with, which is your potential difference, but as the primary batteries go down and battery 3 charges, your potential difference drops below the standing voltage of battery 3. That's an incredibly costly way to try and charge battery 3, and your results will reflect that. The purpose of the boost module is to maintain the input voltage hitting battery 3 at 14.5 volts or HIGHER so that it is ALWAYS getting hit with a higher voltage than its standing voltage. Your results will reflect THAT as well.

[axxelxavier]

Running an inverter between the positives you are hitting battery 3 with 12 volts to begin with, which is your potential difference, but as the primary batteries go down and battery 3 charges, your potential difference drops below the standing voltage of battery 3. That's an incredibly costly way to try and charge battery 3, and your results will reflect that. The purpose of the boost module is to maintain the input voltage hitting battery 3 at 14.5 volts or HIGHER so that it is ALWAYS getting hit with a higher voltage than its standing voltage. Your results will reflect THAT as well.

Problem is that differential voltage is @14,5 volt in the beginning, and it's dropping to almost 9 volt in the end, so I don't think a normal booster would work for my 12 volt load.
It should be easier if my load voltage is on 24 volts, but my inverter is working on 12 volts... I will try later the modified motor setup on 24 volts, but after I will find a way to cut the big noise.
So, any suggestion? I want to try again with the inverter and booster, but what setup to choose? 3BGS with booster (I am not quite sure, though, if it will work, because of the big voltage in the beginning, or the setup with 2 batteries, who need booster to work?
Which should be the most efficient?
Best regards,
Teodor

[Sawt2]

Problem is that differential voltage is @14,5 volt in the beginning, and it's dropping to almost 9 volt in the end, so I don't think a normal booster would work for my 12 volt load.
It should be easier if my load voltage is on 24 volts, but my inverter is working on 12 volts... I will try later the modified motor setup on 24 volts, but after I will find a way to cut the big noise.
So, any suggestion? I want to try again with the inverter and booster, but what setup to choose? 3BGS with booster (I am not quite sure, though, if it will work, because of the big voltage in the beginning, or the setup with 2 batteries, who need booster to work?
Which should be the most efficient?
Best regards,
Teodor

Not sure what kind of inverter you have, most of the ones I have used over the years can handle up 15-16 volts then automatically shuts off around 10-10.5 volts. Most of the boost modules allow you to adjust the voltage, so you could adjust it so ithe initial differential doesn't exceed your inverter's upper limit.