3 Battery Generating System

[ron48]

Just want to say how much i appreciate the knowledge turion dave and and matt have shared. These special gentlemen should be thanked a lot more than they have .

[wantomake]

The modified Matt motor will run between the positives. When tuned properly you can use it to run loads and IF you rotate the batteries, you can use it to turn a generator and have a SERIOUSLY COP>3 System.

Alternatively, you can use that same tuned motor with two boost modules and NOT have to rotate the batteries.

Get a system working with this system before you go making changes. You need to study the wave form you see across battery 3 with your scope until you see it in your sleep.

If you are going to replace that motor with an inverter, an electric toaster or a vibrator, you BETTER see that same wave form across battery 3 or it ain’t going to work! We gave you all two different ways of using that motor that work, and now we have all kinds of people who don’t know what they are doing trying stuff we never talked about. Carroll has TWICE posted the battery rotating circuit and people are still asking if anybody knows how to do that.

Too many people here are too damn lazy to read through these threads and learn from them. They want to jump to the last post, build a circuit others have worked for years to develop, and whine if it doesn’t work first time. Maybe if they had done the research they would know WHY it doesn’t work and HOW to fix it. I have no sympathy. All of what I know I learned from building things and blowing things up. Studying old patents and reading through threads that were hundreds of pages long, not just once, but several times because I would remember that someone had said something that applied and go looking for it.

Aside from that, there are the one or two MILLION things that Matt showed me that he had already figured out.

Hey Turion,
Just reading these old post and wanted to update for any if any that’s interested in this project.

I have my setup running the mod Matt motor/generator that loops back to the 3BGS plus keeps inverter batteries charged up. First real success for me with this setup.

I use the buffer battery and works ok parallel to the #3 . So I’ll rewind the prime mover today for lower amp draw and noise.
Will post more later,
wantomake

[Turion]

Summary

The modified Matt motor will run between the positives. When tuned properly you can use it to run loads and IF you rotate the batteries, you can use it to turn a generator and have a SERIOUSLY COP>3 System.

Alternatively, you can use that same tuned motor with two boost modules and NOT have to rotate the batteries.

Get a system working with this system before you go making changes. You need to study the wave form you see across battery 3 with your scope until you see it in your sleep.

If you are going to replace that motor with an inverter, an electric toaster or a vibrator, you BETTER see that same wave form across battery 3 or it ain’t going to work! We gave you all two different ways of using that motor that work, and now we have all kinds of people who don’t know what they are doing trying stuff we never talked about. Carroll has TWICE posted the battery rotating circuit and people are still asking if anybody knows how to do that.

Too many people here are too damn lazy to read through these threads and learn from them. They want to jump to the last post, build a circuit others have worked for years to develop, and whine if it doesn’t work first time. Maybe if they had done the research they would know WHY it doesn’t work and HOW to fix it. I have no sympathy. All of what I know I learned from building things and blowing things up. Studying old patents and reading through threads that were hundreds of pages long, not just once, but several times because I would remember that someone had said something that applied and go looking for it.

Aside from that, there are the one or two MILLION things that Matt showed me that he had already figured out.

[wantomake]

Can't wait

Bromikey,
I do understand it takes time for an "idea" to develop into a viable build for anyone. We all have short patience sometimes. In college it was often disheartening to hear the lack of education in the younger generation sitting around the room. In highschool I was a low GPA score. But mine was higher than the upcoming generation with a lack of good educational schools these days.

My point is your educational background or input here should never be an issue on an "free energy" forum. We are ALL here to learn and build. How boring and unorganized if you had only Phd's, Engineers and "know-it-all" running every thread.

Give me the common man and I'll conquer any army, build any machine, move every mountain - together.

wantomake

[wantomake]

Have been busy this week. But did get a little time to build the holders for my modified motor. Made one each side that has 90 degree bends with adjustable lock bolts to hold in place.

Can now tune the motor to lower amp draw with much less heat build up. Was pulling 1.4 amps but now is at 1.2 amps. Not much but did decrease heating.

So I'm now in process of modifying my smaller my1016 motor. Will try Desa way of winding with multifilar (6) wires just to experiment with it. Did try 18 multifilar wire but way too thick.

After the mod is done, I will re-connect my two mod motors. One as prime mover the other as generator.

Will be using 5 battery bank setup to eventually power my shop. Already there is great promise in my runs. So then a larger more sustainable system will be built.

Also have ran basic lithium ion battery test and this could a great improvement in power source.

wantomake

[wantomake]

I robot

Hey wanto

Do you happen to know what the proper spec's are for the modified
motor winding. I was told by Matt that the PDF we have was not his
and he had nothing to do with it so 2-3 ohms is off. The correct ohms
of resistance for Matt's motor should be .4 ohms.

I think I read somewhere that 3 strands were used but I have been an
outcast and my questions are not always answered.

I ran the 3 strand calculation and still did not get them low of a figure.

According to Matt's last video he can go on up to close to 6000 rpm's
of which I only need 3500 rpm's. I think my 20awg winding reads .9 ohms
if I remember but I'll have to go back and check it.

Did you use 23awg?

Bromikey,
You remember that "I Robot" when Will Smith was asking the hologram of the deceased Doctor questions. But the hologram would often reply"you are asking the wrong questions". Then W.S. would ask the "correct" question to get the right response.

To sometimes fit in here you must have an engineering degree or sound as if you did the time in that current field of discussion. I wanted to be an EE myself but life and the military said "No". I've been on the outside looking in all my 63 years but nothing or anyone will stop my learning and joy of building in my own shop. I'm only a hobbyist and not ashamed at all.

I only ask a question then leave out all the other thoughts on that subject to myself. I know as a trained individual you can spot those that aren't trained. I have a skill to connect to the most intelligent or a poor downcast drunkard in the gutter of life. It bothers nothing in my spirit how they treat me.

Sorry, will try to answer your building questions.
I'm using trifilar parallel wound and connected I think 30 awg wire. From the pdf (will check again) looks like single wire wound. I need to look again but did Matt wind bifilar 23 awg? I'll go back and find that. My coils read .09 ohms each but I plan to rewind to exact specs as Matt laid out.

Sorry Bromikey I'm not much help,
wantomake
Here is Matts YouTube: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eFR-d_oaYsY that I referred to.

[BroMikey]

Bromikey,
I did run test with modified Matt motor. First as you look at the motor facing you with front towards you. I've not cut any slots in back plate yet. Plan to today. But as it is, turned back plate CCW then did 60 minute run. Heated up in 20 minutes and higher amp draw. Slower rpms also. So stopped the test.

Let it cool down. Turned back plate back CW and same test for 60 minutes. Lower amp draw, only 25° F increase over the 1 hour test run.

So now I know. The modification to the back plate will not be easy but can be done.

As generator I have an old wheel chair motor. The wheel insides is the generator. The stator has 45 teeth on it. So every 9th one lines up to a magnet at the same time. Total of 5 which isn't total Lenz-less. But easy to turn my hand. When connected to large ice motor produced 70+ DC volts at low 200-300 rpms. Was testing old Briggs and Stratton GEET setup. And yes it was a success.

Later will purchase much larger wattage scooter motor to modify and use pully system or clutch from washing machine to start the rotation slowly.

Don't know if helpful for you or not.
wantomake

Hey wanto

Do you happen to know what the proper spec's are for the modified
motor winding. I was told by Matt that the PDF we have was not his
and he had nothing to do with it so 2-3 ohms is off. The correct ohms
of resistance for Matt's motor should be .4 ohms.

I think I read somewhere that 3 strands were used but I have been an
outcast and my questions are not always answered.

I ran the 3 strand calculation and still did not get them low of a figure.

According to Matt's last video he can go on up to close to 6000 rpm's
of which I only need 3500 rpm's. I think my 20awg winding reads .9 ohms
if I remember but I'll have to go back and check it.

Did you use 23awg?

[wantomake]

Good video and idea

If you just drill the holes out larger, it comes out of adjustment because of vibration unless you epoxy it in place. I tried that method and this one:

Matt Motor Mod for Tuning - YouTube

Dave,
Thanks good video and idea.

I'll be making a circular plate to place in back of motor between magnets and back plate. If there's enough room there.

Had to work all day for wifes' boss so will try to cut it tonight.

Thanks for the help.
wantomake

[Turion]

Matt Motor Mod for Tuning

If you just drill the holes out larger, it comes out of adjustment because of vibration unless you epoxy it in place. I tried that method and this one:

Matt Motor Mod for Tuning - YouTube

[wantomake]

Clock wise

Bromikey,
I did run test with modified Matt motor. First as you look at the motor facing you with front towards you. I've not cut any slots in back plate yet. Plan to today. But as it is, turned back plate CCW then did 60 minute run. Heated up in 20 minutes and higher amp draw. Slower rpms also. So stopped the test.

Let it cool down. Turned back plate back CW and same test for 60 minutes. Lower amp draw, only 25° F increase over the 1 hour test run.

So now I know. The modification to the back plate will not be easy but can be done.

As generator I have an old wheel chair motor. The wheel insides is the generator. The stator has 45 teeth on it. So every 9th one lines up to a magnet at the same time. Total of 5 which isn't total Lenz-less. But easy to turn my hand. When connected to large ice motor produced 70+ DC volts at low 200-300 rpms. Was testing old Briggs and Stratton GEET setup. And yes it was a success.

Later will purchase much larger wattage scooter motor to modify and use pully system or clutch from washing machine to start the rotation slowly.

Don't know if helpful for you or not.
wantomake

[wantomake]

Heat and amp draw reduction

If anyone remembers where that detail is associated with the modified
pulse motor that show an adjustment direction for the back plate to
correct any timing issues builders might have.

I heard someone say a zener could help also but mainly what I need to
know is how many degrees in which direction on the CW or CCW to
relieve the super heating problem?

Well mine actually took just over an hour to get hot and after 3 hours
the heat build up increased as well as amp draw. For short runs no heat
issues are obvious. The more you run it the more heat. Bye Bye bearings.

Here is the original PDF that gives us the design layout and so i went
back to it to see if there was any mention of this tuning of the back
plate. Zero.

It seems like I saw a post a couple of years back where an individual had
to move his 22 degrees but that may not be the right number and in what
direction.

I could make a bracket that does not require any bolts to hold the motor
end caps together then I can adjust it till I see the heat go down. I am
assuming that maybe the amp draw may drop as a way to find the best
location.

Again more refinements. If I slot the back plate to much it may break
or crack, like if I slotted each bolt hole 20 degrees in both directions.

Brodude,
Yes I do remember that from the beginning of this modification times. But now I see the heat and amp draw increase. I'm only running 2 hours before noticing the increase.

But, I've been using a stock my1016 coupled to the MMM (modified Matt motor) as a generator. That explains the lack of good second or third runs on this setup. The Matt generator heats up as well and lost volts in the setup. First run was good with both primaries holding steady, with the charge battery increasing even as it was paralleled to the 4th(resting battery). My idea is to power an inverter off of position 4 battery as battery #3 charges. So as a unprofessional experimenter, I tried this approach and surprisingly the inverter battery gained in voltage. Even with small load (20 watts) attached.

But I do plan to cut the back plate holes a few degrees to advance or retard the timing.

wantomake

[wantomake]

Already modified

Matt's video series on rewinding the razor scooter motor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faZIszrlllI

Thanks Dave,
When this modification was made known by Matthew I did my Matt motor modification also. Downloaded the pdf and the video.

Now I'm trying to build the battery switch. Not sure if electronic or mechanical type would work best.

wantomake

[wantomake]

True but,

Bromikey,
I bought 10 of those green sticker "Interstate" marine batteries in 2010. I've got 8 of them left. 2 I burned up doing stupid experiments that I wasn't supposed to be doing. I'm not defending this battery, I know it's for marine use. Not solar use. But I do connect my Imhotep pulse charger to them here and there. They are good for poor man like me. Not everyone can afford $195 per battery.

Also those batteries are showing that the longer I allow the setup to run, the more they seem to hold a charge, reduce in voltage at slower rate, work in any position, and will balance out if done correctly.

I did balance the output on the inverter with the input from the Matt modified motor(generator) back to the banks and watched a two hour run only use 3/10 of a volt from the primaries. But if the balancing was perfected there would be better runs. Notice Bromikey I didn't say OU.

I now see the magic/beauty/anomaly what ever those smart ones call it. So I'll be building a better switching device to see more interesting events.

Thanks for the link but way over my budget, maybe later.
wantomake

[BroMikey]

Lowe's sells some 105 ah deep cells and this is my shopping for tomorrow to add to the banks.

This post may not impress or help anyone but I like what this system can do.

wantomake

I am impressed. I am also impressed with Luc even after me making
a stink.
Think of what we are doing. We are leading the world into baby steps
of extra energy circuits that recirculate power.

I bought those dern marine batteries and they all crapped out asap.
I don't usually use this unbecoming phase "THEY SUCK" well the ones
I kept buying were from Walmart. I spent $70 bucks a pop for banks
and banks of them over the years and I do not have one left to show
for.

The best batteries are true deep cycles and then converted to Alum
never fail the way I handle them. The ones I have now I have had for
years and years, the marine ones lasted me just over 1 year. Rotten
batteries.

True deep cycles have plates 6-8 times thicker than marine starter
batteries. I am not aware of any true deep cycles from Lowes but
that is my opinion on the other hand Turion-man uses them but a higher
grade costing more money per battery.

I wouldn't give a nickel from marine (green sticker) batteries, the ones
lawn mowers and tractors use to start motors with.

Also John Bedini pointed out how his Walmart 105 amp hours batteries
never gave him more than 30ah

These are the best https://www.wholesalesolar.com/9920055/trojan-battery-company/batteries/trojan-battery-company-scs200-flooded-battery?ads_cmpid=212913026&ads_adid=11757915986&a ds_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=373178202 26&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-534412244552&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_ medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4eXPBRCtARIsADvOjY3 lAYKCA24HVSQ5XPc-anGxIuM1rRbd_kz8LXBRs5qEHdY4iusMbmQaAnLNEALw_wcB



Or these, stay away from high CCA AKA (Cold Cranking Amps) this
represents motor starting type. This battery is 1/3rd the size of those
tractor batteries and last longer all the way around. More consistent
power delivery for years after the big start batteries kroak out.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/VMAX-V35-857-12V-35AH-AGM-Deep-Cycle-U1-Battery-7-7-x-5-x-6-1-for-Minn-Kota-Endura-C2-40-12V-40lb-Trolling-Motor/811274501?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6926&a did=22222222227083240345&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=& wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=196329475394&wl4=aud-306997118081la-316293431948&wl5=9024376&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl 10=115070360&wl11=online&wl12=811274501&wl13=&veh= sem


This guy sells the same battery on EBAY for $70 bucks TO THE DOOR
no core charge like ole Walmart likes to rack up against you another
$10 for their trashy batteries. These are the type I own.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-35Ah-AGM-Deep-Cycle-Battery-for-RENOGY-PV-SOLAR-PANELS/272536950941?hash=item3f7477d89d:g2EAAOSwLEtYi7Qj

[Turion]

Info

Matt's video series on rewinding the razor scooter motor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faZIszrlllI