I will finish later but this is what I wanted to find out.
12" rotor 24 magnets around a 10" circle leaving 1/2" plastic
perimeter = 10" X 3.14 = 31.4" - 24" (the magnets) = 7.4"
left over to evenly space magnets @.308" not enough room
between to keep the fields from overlapping and no room
to come back later to add shields.
Still got 29days left to figure in the math. If you go to a 13" circle
you will have a .57" between so use a 14" rotor, I would say, this
would give you more flexibility in case you had to come back later.
It's yer baby.
http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/graphrotor.jpg
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Originally posted by Turion View PostFound some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet
I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.
Please consider doing some experiments or just treating the whole
thing as an evolving work. I am going to draw it out in a minute, trying
to think how much space is in between the magnets. Maybe there is
enough so no fields overlap. Boy that would be nice, wouldn't it?
That floppy rotor you sent me? Don't want to hurt your feelings
here. Anyway the system you have works so I think you
should stay with that unless you want to build a few little ones?
The same material as the thin floppy one is excellent and I am a good
of mechanical structures. Or some plastic thick enough, plus the magnets
are long cylinders and have all of that surface area to grab not like
standing up a silver dollar and trying to fasten it with the edge only.
Yet even with only a tiny edge it held pretty good so think of how much
better itis going to be. Safer. Here is the way i think lately on my design.
First I like shields (youknow) and I like press fit and magnets inside
steel sleeves have the advantage. First and foremost steel can be struck
and the ceramic glass inside of it will not crack. My only problem is
I want to attach the sleeves first by press fit and then tack weld those
once centered to the rotor disc. So as a compromise I have threaded
sleeves on the outside that could be tack welded also.
So what? Maybe I could come back over my rotors with a nice plastic
cover to shim up the space? Hum... got me thinking on safety.
Yeah $300 bucks is a lot of Maui Waui It's worth it.Last edited by BroMikey; 06-24-2019, 06:21 AM.
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Update
Found some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet
I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.Last edited by Turion; 06-24-2019, 03:02 AM.
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I really do have these same fears of ceramic glass bullets flying
so it is so critical for me to have the magnet shield on mine. Without
a solid steel shield I would be afraid too. Also I would be afraid of a 5/8"
shaft for such a big rotor. If it was me and had all that money use for
this project the shaft and bearings would be over 1" to cut down on
any play.
you know I have not thought enough about this yet having so many
magnets on a rotor of metals. What went thru my mine was to have
a small distance as shown so if it was a metal rotor the opposition
magnetic fields would not have an effect being so far away.
Leaves you one thing to use, non metal rotor, I can't even find any
plastics that thick yet. Lexan would be so much heavier and you
bearings would need to be bigger is all.
There is composite board just as good as steel, I just can't find it
again. It is a higher temperature rated material.
The other guy is right, aluminum would heat up at 1/8" gap really bad.
The shields also now only safe guard against impact of the ceramic but
could reduce the size of the magnets and you are going to need them
with 24 of them side by side anyway.
If I see that (Oflalic?based composite) special board again I'll point
it out to you down the road. Either way being so close together those
magnets might have overlapping fields without a shield.
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You don't ever, ever, EVER want the magnets to stick out of the rotor. Take it from someone who learned the hard way. If they catch on ANYTHING at high speed, that rotor can EXPLODE. Neos flying at a couple thousand rpm won't go as deep into you as a bullet, but the impact area is a WHOLE LOT bigger. With what I have seen it do to lightweight metal, plastic and wood, I truly FEAR what it will do to flesh and bone.
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One possibilities so magnets are not flush with the surface of the rotor
"might" keep the flux down to a minimum, however 4" Lexan and 1.5"
shaft and bearing would work also.
Acetal Sheets $268 here for 3" X 14" X 14" probablt to expensive tho.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u751Qmq6li0
https://www.professionalplastics.com...-POMSHEET-RODS
Last edited by BroMikey; 06-23-2019, 10:29 PM.
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Netica,
That is a really good point. I appreciate you pointing that out. I DO intend to use the opposing magnets so I will definitely have to rethink the use of aluminum. I do NOT want to have to pay for a SECOND rotor.
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Eddy current brake
Originally posted by Netica View PostTurion,
If you are making an aluminum rotor and you still are using the stationary magnets to prevent the cogging, surely as the aluminum rotor spins, the magnetic field of the stationary magnets will cause drag on the rotor and heat up the rotor.
bi
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Netica, hi, I think magnets as bearings are in the right direction but Turion might have another thought.
Water bearings? Good for the sharp mind to build.
Vacuum bearings? Tesla design.
Perhaps Turion will write the answer.
Perhaps a metal tube vacuumed out to 2 atmospheres and injected with water until minus one atmosphere and then set as the core of a coil?
How rediculous, huh?Last edited by Pot head; 06-23-2019, 03:51 AM.
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Originally posted by Netica View PostTurion,
If you are making an aluminum rotor and you still are using the stationary magnets to prevent the cogging, surely as the aluminum rotor spins, the magnetic field of the stationary magnets will cause drag on the rotor and heat up the rotor.
out an 1/8" so magnet shields could be used to stop flux migration.
But it is time to get away from a liquid rotor.
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Turion,
If you are making an aluminum rotor and you still are using the stationary magnets to prevent the cogging, surely as the aluminum rotor spins, the magnetic field of the stationary magnets will cause drag on the rotor and heat up the rotor.
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Turion wrote:
Five of these
$598.25 plus shipping
https://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Wire-S...y&sr=8-2-fkmr0
Is this a typo? Didn't you mean 23awg?
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In tribal and or family issues, to tell the tale to seven witnesses and then they tell seven others, is how early legends and history was established.
Since Turion is telling the tale, it will be told to the several others who are of this tribe and or family.
This is my way and this post waits for all the details to follow.
Please tell more of your tale Turion so even the newest member can bear witness.
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Thanks Dave, you are making history with this build. The possibilities
are greater with a core that can be changed? And the heat issue
sounds like you might be able to heat a tiny hot water heater something
tank to wash your hands with in the shop. I like water cooling better
anyway. All generator have some form of cooling @ 2000watts.
Thanks for sharing the price list with the specific parts list. It is an
exciting opportunity that I am glad you have chosen not to miss.
Sounds like more than a 2000watt machine actually but 28awg?
Last edited by BroMikey; 06-22-2019, 11:16 PM.
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