3 Battery Generating System

[Ufopolitics]

Sorry Matt...

You don't need to spend that much on diodes. Diode pretty much will run its amp rating. I doubt you pushing more than 10 amp or so.
These are a dollar and from digikey. You never know about Ebay

Digi-Key - 497-6082-5-ND (Manufacturer - STTH2006W)

You can search digikey and find fast recoveries that might do the trick for ya for less even.

Cheers
Matt

Hey Matt,

I am sorry to be in disagreement with you again!!
But, I particularly do not like the TO 200 Family type diodes...Maybe is because I had previous very bad experiences with them...
In prior Motor controllers I had used them right next to each MOSFET's...and they had gone bad...the worst part is that they go bad by short circuiting anode-cathode (meaning Drain-Source)...almost never open...and caused further damages...To my concept they are designed for "Lighter Duty" Jobs...

I believe they will never perform like a heavy body rectifier like NTE576.
Which is also the one specified at lower link...with different crossover number (UF5404)

Specification of ultra fast recovery diode and rectifier


Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

My recommendations ...

Hello to all,

My recommendations to all testing My Diodes Set-Up:

1-Make the two terminals coming from motor after diodes to Old Battery Dis-Connectable, by means of individual male-female connectors...
2-While having another cable running to Old Battery Positive from Motor ready to be connected. This 'Option' will "restore" the system as you originally had it.
Now, after this is done, I will like to test with normal wire (original, no diodes) and the two terminals of my proposal open (after diodes)...and when motor is running try to short them out..watching for sparks-power there...while watching what the motor does...
You will be shorting out Radiant, not Hot electricity...
3- We should try (I will do it later on)..to put a load on those two terminals (not Old Battery) but maybe a CFL or a Neon. It should blink...pulsate, but not steadily light up.
Warning!: Do not try to read the output from this two cables end...it may burn your meter!...Unless is a very good protected one...and still do not guarantee it...
4- Do NOT use Motors that have small turns on each coil, they are "Speed Motors", some have the Model as "TRAXXAS 9T", meaning only 9 turns of a pretty heavy awg for their small size...And some R/C Helis even have a heat sink mounted...For sure you will burn them here, besides the very low resistance they will never build up enough induced electricity (Radiant or Hot) in their coils...
5- The "Ideal" Motor for this set-up should be elongated, and wound of enough turns in their coils, as they could stand -In Just ONE COIL- the Load of the currents handled here...
This system should be "Balanced Up"...Meaning not a very small motor with huge amps/hours batteries...or the other way around either...a very heavy motor with small batteries...Don't be "abusive"...

Regards

Ufopolitcs

[rosehillworks]

Radiant Energy Accumulator-Converter

Matt. Thank's for your input
@All
I think this similar to what is going on here
WorkingRadiantEnergy.pdf

[hello_all]

Hey Matt,

I am sorry to be in disagreement with you again!!
But, I particularly do not like the TO 200 Family type diodes...Maybe is because I had previous very bad experiences with them...
In prior Motor controllers I had used them right next to each MOSFET's...and they had gone bad...the worst part is that they go bad by short circuiting anode-cathode (meaning Drain-Source)...almost never open...and caused further damages...To my concept they are designed for "Lighter Duty" Jobs...

I believe they will never perform like a heavy body rectifier like NTE576.
Which is also the one specified at lower link...with different crossover number (UF5404)

Specification of ultra fast recovery diode and rectifier


Regards

Ufopolitics

that is the right the "forward diode " the one from motor to + of battery.
thanks for the picture , i have some computer power supplies i will look at them if i can find some diodes which can handle power...

[hello_all]

ufo , i have apex dvd player and opened it up it has 2 big diodes ..

HER 303 BL .. will they do i check they are rated 3AMP .. before i take them out i need to check...

[Neight]

Neight,
If I am reading this right, you had a voltage gain with BOTH the 3BGS and 2BGS using the two diodes across battery three and small motors. Correct? So so far, everyone who has TRIED it with small motors has been successful. Anybody else???

Dave

correct, I did see small gains, though all the runs I have done with the diodes in place have been less then 2 hours so far, hoping to get a couple of longer runs in this week, and see if I get higher gains.

[hello_all]

ok ran the test again with the hl303 diodes (they run hot but ok can take the little heat) , here is what happens .

1. when the 3rd battery had some charge , it did run and stopped.

2. i discharged the 3rd battery completely .

3. i ran with the diodes in place the , motor ran initially very speedy and then after 30 mins or so dropped rpm and then stopped.

now the 3rd battery is i charged again ...

---- now the question is how to test this system and what is next step ... pls guide...-----

i am looking for bad batteries , meanwhile thinking that i can add parallel uncharged batteries it can be my battery charging system array..

will post a simple video

[hello_all]

MVI_1813.AVI - YouTube

here it is ...

[Matthew Jones]

Hey Matt,

I am sorry to be in disagreement with you again!!
But, I particularly do not like the TO 200 Family type diodes...Maybe is because I had previous very bad experiences with them...
In prior Motor controllers I had used them right next to each MOSFET's...and they had gone bad...the worst part is that they go bad by short circuiting anode-cathode (meaning Drain-Source)...almost never open...and caused further damages...To my concept they are designed for "Lighter Duty" Jobs...
I believe they will never perform like a heavy body rectifier like NTE576.
Which is also the one specified at lower link...with different crossover number (UF5404)
Specification of ultra fast recovery diode and rectifier
Regards
Ufopolitics

I understand, we have set the goal just out of reach... Unfortunately I have not had the same experience with them as you have. Since they can be cooled in more efficient fashion, short term high current pulses are dealt with in a far better matter. And just because you cannot calculate a surge and lost some diodes doesn't berate the diode itself as far as I concerned.

The simple fact remains David did this originally with just a motor and the battery configuration. And I showed that gains can be made through diode configuration, switching configurations, and resistor placement. So What. How components are place in the circuit may just give us a glimpse of the real prize which is how that dead battery, motor, or both was acting at that time.

Running around trying to live up to someones personal standards for components is just a bit too whoo-doo magic for me.

4 motors and 3 different dead batteries and your configuration has done nothing. Sorry to be in disagreement with you again!! But I think the course of experimentation you have chosen to test is just a little too inflexible for me. Based on what I feel is fact and what is not.

Matt

[Ufopolitics]

They should "do"...

ufo , i have apex dvd player and opened it up it has 2 big diodes ..

HER 303 BL .. will they do i check they are rated 3AMP .. before i take them out i need to check...

Hello,

Those are pretty good ones, equivalent to NTE588, They will be just fine.
Here are the spec's: Press the [pdf] file on right hand.

NTE Cross Reference

PDF:
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/500to599/pdf/nte588.pdf

Good testing!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Matt...

I understand, we have set the goal just out of reach... Unfortunately I have not had the same experience with them as you have. Since they can be cooled in more efficient fashion, short term high current pulses are dealt with in a far better matter. And just because you cannot calculate a surge and lost some diodes doesn't berate the diode itself as far as I concerned.

The simple fact remains David did this originally with just a motor and the battery configuration. And I showed that gains can be made through diode configuration, switching configurations, and resistor placement. So What. How components are place in the circuit may just give us a glimpse of the real prize which is how that dead battery, motor, or both was acting at that time.

Running around trying to live up to someones personal standards for components is just a bit too whoo-doo magic for me.

4 motors and 3 different dead batteries and your configuration has done nothing. Sorry to be in disagreement with you again!! But I think the course of experimentation you have chosen to test is just a little too inflexible for me. Based on what I feel is fact and what is not.

Matt

Matt,

The fact that My Proposal did not work on your end, does not mean "The Method" -in general- will not work for others.
For example: It WORKED for member Hello_All.
There are Others also testing this set up, and have not come back to tell Us as of now.

What I really do not see as a "NICE APPROACH" is for You to be coming back here (TWO TIMES BY NOW) just to say "It Does Not Work" IN GENERAL. Like You would be "MR FINAL JUDGE " here, The Final Authority ??!!
By doing this You are disappointing others -That have not tried out- to run my set-up, and that ain't nice at ALL.

.."Running around trying to live up to someones personal standards for components is just a bit too whoo-doo magic for me. .."

I WAS JUST EXPRESSING My Own personal Opinion on certain Components...People here are Pretty Grown Up and Knowledgeable in "This Fields" As They all could take their own decisions on what They do and don't...

I am not just "Throwing stones (Components here) to see if I hit the Target"...Bro!!

I ALREADY , WHILE BACK, HIT IT, I SURE DID, And I am POSITIVE about it!

I understand WHY I have set those Diodes in that FASHION, and yes they DO work, not the Perfect way -And I know also WHY NOT- But they DO.
As they show Us the REAL PATH of Currents that are charging the Battery where they are coming from...

Just "Follow My Diodes" and You will see the "CYCLE" is taking place.

Now, If YOU are NOT capable to see, to understand it...that does not mean the Rest here must also "comply and agree " with your frustration...
Above Your comment is a member who DID CHARGE HIS BATTERY THREE TIMES. BASED ON MY SET UP, NOT YOUR SHORTING OUT DIODES...and...it worked.

I try to tell you the "Possible" reasons why it did not work for you in previous posts...However, this will be my last post directed to You, Mathew Jones.

Take care

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello and that was a great Test!!

ok ran the test again with the hl303 diodes (they run hot but ok can take the little heat) , here is what happens .

1. when the 3rd battery had some charge , it did run and stopped.

2. i discharged the 3rd battery completely .

3. i ran with the diodes in place the , motor ran initially very speedy and then after 30 mins or so dropped rpm and then stopped.

now the 3rd battery is i charged again ...

---- now the question is how to test this system and what is next step ... pls guide...-----

i am looking for bad batteries , meanwhile thinking that i can add parallel uncharged batteries it can be my battery charging system array..

will post a simple video

Hello Hello_All,
That sounded great!!

I am very glad My Set Up has charged your battery three times by now...

I watched your video...If you could discharge it again, and set digital meters on the Old battery , Prior to start test (showing meter screen on Camera by Zooming at beginning an End) and leave it on, Till the End of Video..all continuously ...Please!!

---- now the question is how to test this system and what is next step ... pls guide...-----

Next steps will be coming soon Hello_All, But let's wait to see the results of other Members doing same testing.
Please be patient.


Thanks

I appreciate your help!!


Regards

Ufopolitics

[Matthew Jones]

Matt,....
For example: It WORKED for member Hello_All.
There are Others also testing this set up, and have not come back to tell Us as of now......

Actually if you took the time to read what he said was only battery 3 charged. Thats not the stated goal. Instead you took the statement "Yes I am right". In all your perfection you have managed to lead this Hello All in the wrong direction, I wonder why you have done that?

Battery 3 must stay dead that is the goal. We do not want it to recover and hold a charge of significants.

What I really do not see as a "NICE APPROACH" is for You to be coming back here (TWO TIMES BY NOW) just to say "It Does Not Work" IN GENERAL. Like You would be "MR FINAL JUDGE " here, The Final Authority ??!!
By doing this You are disappointing others -That have not tried out- to run my set-up, and that ain't nice at ALL.......

But it is not working and more than likely you would see this too if you actually had a setup running. If it did work for you, you yourself would have provided the exact details of your setup and possibly a film or 2. Instead of mentioning new details while people test your "Theories".

I think you are sadly mistaken when you over estimate your ability to think the situation through and expect results. Anybody can Imagine results, I have provided them to at least several people, Have you??? Hello all does not count he is mistaken in the expected result.

I try to tell you the "Possible" reasons why it did not work for you in previous posts...However, this will be my last post directed to You, Mathew Jones.

I read what you said and I gave an answer once now I'll spell it out again.... Your are just imagining your stuff to works. You have built yourself a little world in which you are some form Grand Researcher and you need only think of a solution.
But in the real world sir, tests are required. Real experience is a must not an inconvenient little thing.
Show your tests, show your results, or go away.

"By" NOT "doing this You are disappointing others". You come in and immediately change the course of direction. The people who are actually trying to make progress via research are trying to stay on a course that leads us to a 3rd battery that does what was witnessed by David. The modification laid out thus far were tests to see result, real results, and to lead us direction so that would create the stated "Bad Battery" with replicate results.

* Capacitance and resistance = How sulfated the batteries are and how much power can they store or pass
* Switching = Shorted plates or highly viscous fluid with intermittent switching behavior
* Diode tests = Which set of plates would accept or deny current

We have to stay within the possibilities of the "Dead Battery"

Now again I write if you had came here with results looking for verification then I would have had a different approach. But you strike me as alot of others have as person who lives in his fantasy world in which all is possible because you think it is.

Do the work then give the advice, and you are not capable of that or refuse to do it then your not credible researcher or you are purposely here to mislead.

And if I have bruised you tiny ego you feel free to run away. But if you truly have real test data to offer with results that can be replicated or at least subtly experienced then feel free to share them. But if not, SIR, Go away.

Matthew Jones

[fathershand]

Semi-Successful Test Run

Today I did 2 tests using the UFO diodes. The 1st test was using 4 12V car batteries in series and parallel giving 24V. My motor was a car radiator fan motor. The diodes that I had were from a car alternator. I had 2 bad batteries in parallel. THe first bad battery is ideal for this circuit as it never charges higher. The 2nd bad battery is charging up, but at rest it drops to 10V. My results were that the primary batteries were dropping in voltage. No joy here.

My second test was with a more suitable motor. Here are the specs:

GE Permanent Magnet Motor replaceable brushes. It is long cylindrical shaped.
Voltage 95V DC.
Model 5BPA34TAA24 HP is 1/4 RPM 1725 Time Rating - Cont. Ambient 40 degrees C.
INSE Class BP Made in USA Coil Resistance is 5.7 ohms.

UFO, do you think that this is a good motor for this circuit?

(Thanks for posting those video links to demo a good motor for us). Before the test, I hooked it to a belt and drove it by another 230V A/C motor to see what voltage it generates. It was somewhere in the 40V range. The A/C motor is rated at 1750RPM.

I only had 5 12V batteries for a total of 60V to drive this motor.
The voltage on the primaries dropped slowly during the test. Early in the one hour run, the voltage seemed to hover for some time, maybe 15 minutes or more. After the test I let the batteries rest for an hour and they had fallen in voltage from .14V to .3V per battery. I feel good about this.

UFO, do you think that running this motor under voltage at 60V with the car alternator diodes is why I have falling primary voltage? I also noticed that the motor seemed to be getting hot.

Thanks for everybody's help.

Tony

[kcarring]

2 cents

I tried the setup. After an entire night, found a bat that replicated the effect. 3.5 hrs total run try #1. Managed to see the increase and voltage divebombs. Dave's circuit - no switching to KISS principle first. Seems to work good for while. Then Quit. Tried again today for several hours. Best run 1.5 hrs. Came to the foggy conclusion my setup might be working due to drendrite intermittent shorting, but the cell is being "repaired" and that possibly may be a reason for it working less often now. Though this is probably a stupid thing to say; it almost seems to my imagination its like a spark gap effect inside battery 3. Wonder if a person could impose a set resistance and or mechanical shorting on a known good instead of random bad #3 and see the same, but more reliable effect. if i come up with anything new i'll post again. thanks. ciao