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Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

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  • Aaron
    replied
    Purpose Of This Thread

    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Hi All,

    Aaron, thanks for starting this thread on my lecture about "Understanding the Lockridge Device".

    The first thing I would like to stipulate is that this thread is ONLY for people who actually saw my lecture at the Renaissance Conference or who have purchased and viewed the DVD of that lecture.

    If you were not at the Conference or you haven't seen the DVD, DO NOT POST HERE!

    Many people at the conference purchased advanced orders for the DVD. Those initial orders will be shipped first, as soon as the editing work is finished and the first group of DVDs are produced. As soon as this happens, I will put a "Buy Now" button for this product on the Products page at my website, and announce it here and to my Update Newsletter List.

    Until all of this happens, I will not be commenting on this topic in this thread. The main reason is TIME. It took me years to figure out how the machine worked. It took me 6 weeks to write the PowerPoint Presentation, and an hour and a half to present it as a lecture. I simply don't have the time to go over it again and again while I work for a living.

    See you back here in a couple of weeks.

    Peter
    Please read all the posts in this thread before posting - and only if
    you were at the conference or bought the DVD lectures.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    FRC,
    A starter used CONTINUALLY as a motor might burn up, but remember, in this configuration the motor is PULSED to just keep the wheels a' turnin'. Most of the time it is OFF, so a starter SHOULD handle this just fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • iflewmyown
    replied
    Patented version???

    Is this the basic layout of the lockridge device?

    http://www.rexresearch.com/alxandr/3913004.pdf
    Garry

    Leave a comment:


  • FRC
    replied
    Thanks

    Thankyou for reply. My concern was that if a starter is used as a motor it will
    overheat in a short time. However, if it is somehow using radiant or cold
    electricity for power maybe this would not matter?

    FRC

    Leave a comment:


  • radiant1
    replied
    re:why not a bosch

    I was at the conference and have watched both DVDs. The original Bosch was modified greatly to make it part motor, and part generator. The new way is to use one of each a motor and a generator.
    Alan

    Leave a comment:


  • FRC
    replied
    Dvd

    Also have the DVD ordered. Electric motor secrets I was very good. So expect
    II to be also. I was not at the conference. I am in Canada and have not got a
    passport or else I would have gone to the conference. Will have to get one so
    I can go to next conference. I am wondering why a starter is being used when
    it was my impression that the original Lockridge device was a VW Bosch generator.

    FRC

    Leave a comment:


  • cwaugs
    replied
    Having sealed ball bearings on both end housings already is why I like the Delco starter/ generator from 60's and 70's lawn mowers. same size physically but the field windings are split. Correct me if I'm wrong but I suppose it is to be expected in any open group such as this to have a pile of people like me who try stuff just to see if it works before theory is understood, but don't get the cart ahead of the horse. Why I am saying this is so that everyone don't run out and build the first thing you see a picture of just because it looks like excellent workmanship. If it hasn't been proven yet, it hasn't been. Only because I have been there too many times. That being said, Excellent work Reggie. Your quality of workmanship is what I strive for. I am trying to find a source for the end housings so that my in house is not so labor intensive until I get the big CNC finished. Too many projects too little time but I have been waiting for such an opportunity for over 30 years. Can't wait for both of the DVD's to arrive so that the conference presentation (and more) can be absorbed again. Wayne

    Leave a comment:


  • goreggie
    replied
    Originally posted by dragon View Post
    Mark,Almost all the old starters were identical in the motor portion of the units, the only thing that changed was the end housings which determined what engine they would fit.

    GoReggie, beautiful work ! I'm assuming that was a test and you plan to replace the rear housing as well - that bushing may not last long continuously running. Although if placed in line ( direct drive ) it may not be a problem since there are no side loads. Maybe a seal and grease fitting would suffice. It wouldn't take much to make a bearing hub that could be welded into the rear plate though. I'm following a similar path...
    Hi what a great way to improve the starter this I will do, the rear plate with the same bolt holes will be replaced Reggie thanks for the input well needed

    Leave a comment:


  • goreggie
    replied
    Originally posted by Mark View Post
    Looks great Gorggie!

    Did you just remove the nose cone and install your new one or were there other modifications you did? The new front cover looks like aluminum, did you make it yourself? Whats the part number on your starter? I'll be watching your progress! Still waiting for my videos.

    Mark
    Hi I installed our new one that was it. The cover is aluminum and done in house. the part # is from O'Reilly Auto Parts 1-BTE 03-0236x list price $67.78
    Reggie Let's do it...thanks to the Energetic Forum
    Last edited by goreggie; 12-12-2010, 06:48 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • dragon
    replied
    Mark,Almost all the old starters were identical in the motor portion of the units, the only thing that changed was the end housings which determined what engine they would fit.

    GoReggie, beautiful work ! I'm assuming that was a test and you plan to replace the rear housing as well - that bushing may not last long continuously running. Although if placed in line ( direct drive ) it may not be a problem since there are no side loads. Maybe a seal and grease fitting would suffice. It wouldn't take much to make a bearing hub that could be welded into the rear plate though. I'm following a similar path...
    ________
    Easyvapedigital
    Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark
    replied
    Originally posted by goreggie View Post
    Hi, 1st day setting up the starter with a new housing, went well, more to come Thanks Reggie [ATTACH]7177[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH]7178[/ATTACH]
    Looks great Gorggie!

    Did you just remove the nose cone and install your new one or were there other modifications you did? The new front cover looks like aluminum, did you make it yourself? Whats the part number on your starter? I'll be watching your progress! Still waiting for my videos.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • goreggie
    replied
    Lockridge Device

    Day two, Looking good so far
    Sunday off
    start back Monday see ya



    Last edited by goreggie; 04-03-2011, 11:07 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • radiant1
    replied
    working the equation backwards

    A freind has a $15 Harbor Frieght, continual use,water pump motor that is 1/2 HP, 110 Volts, and 2800 rpm max. Working the equation backwards that matches a run motor with a generator motor 110/20 = 5.5 BEMF volts. How do we easily find a motor that is putting out 5.5 BEMF volts at 2800 RPM?
    Alan

    Leave a comment:


  • dragon
    replied
    For anyone interested, the 180v DC PM GE motor that Mr. Lindemann sugested in the DVD as a generator can be purchased here - Surplus Center - 1/2 HP 180 VDC 2500 RPM GE MOTOR 56C

    Other information that may be of interest... the chevy starter he recommended produces 9.5 ft lbs of torque and will draw up to 1.2 kw.

    The torque requirement to produce the 300 watts from the generator can be found with the following formula...

    .7376*( Watts / ( 6.26 * RPM / 60 ) = ft/lbs

    So in the case of the DVD example of 300 watts at 3000 rpm the required torque ( continuous ) would be .7069 ft/lbs.

    Found by; .7376 * ( 300 watts / ( 6.26 * 3000 rpm / 60 ) = .7069 ft/lbs

    Actually with normal alternator losses it would most likely be a slightly higher requirement.

    So the question remains, can the 9.5 ft lb "pulse" be stored in the flywheel to obtain a continuous 1 ft/lb load to charge the cap?

    Next will be the diameter and weight of the flywheel needed to store the energy....
    ________
    HALF-BAKED
    Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Roland
    replied
    Peter, watched the 2 DVDs last night awesome job. Your ability to make the complex understandable is great.

    I must say if i had not watch the 1st Motor secerts video (in order). I would not gotten near as much out of ths current video. The first video is a must for newbs like me. Great recommendation thanks

    I have a better understanding of one my friends invention. It does work like the lockridge but much more power. It takes another motor to start it. It was hard for my mind to except what my eyes where seeing, but your video cleared some of that fog. It may be time for me to give this stuff a try, thanks again.

    Leave a comment:

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