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Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

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  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Awesome Work

    Originally posted by dragon View Post
    I expect I should be close enough to start running some tests with it this weekend.... I ran it up to 2000 rpm with the flywheel in place and it will drive a 60 watt bulb conventionally for a few minutes dissipating the energy from the flywheel.

    I have the final assembly and the commutator to design and build and it should be ready...
    Dragon,

    Your build looks excellent. Your initial test shows how important the flywheel is in overcoming the back emf of the generator. From your posts, you seem to have a firm grasp of the issues.

    If you wire 3 light sockets in parallel between the generator output and the capacitor, then you can play with the ballast resistance by inserting different light bulbs in combination.

    Once the external commutator is operational, then it is just about finding the right balance between the armature and field in the motor to produce the largest torque bursts from the capacitor discharges.

    Keep up the great work. I think your model looks very promising.

    Peter
    Last edited by Peter Lindemann; 12-29-2010, 07:58 PM.

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  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Answers

    Hi Guys,

    Now that the big crush to ship all of the DVDs is over, and Christmas is behind us, I can focus more attention here.

    I have also finished preparing the PowerPoint presentation as a downloadable PDF file, and hope to have that available on my website soon.

    The idea behind my lecture is to come to a deep understanding of the motor functions of the machine.

    Back EMF is, I believe, a term that simply obscures the fact that the machine is not a motor or a generator, but a motor/generator all of the time.

    If you rotate the shaft of the machine, the generator functions are such that the electric current driving the external loads are IN PHASE with the appearance of the motor functions that are in opposition to the force turning the shaft. The odd thing happening here is that ALL of the voltage drop occurs in the external load and the reverse motoring effects occur where the voltage is rising again. This suggests that the torques produced are related only to the movement of current in the machine, without regard to whether the voltage is dropping or rising. Again, this suggests that the reverse torque production is not related to any "dissipation of electricity".

    If you apply electricity to the machine, however, a completely different set of conditions prevail. At start-up, the motor draws the maximum electrical energy, in relation to both voltage and current. But this is NOT the point at which the machine produces the maximum mechanical energy (POWER). The electrical power input, as the cross product of volts times amps DOES NOT translate directly into the production of mechanical power output, as the cross product of torque times speed. This relationship is NOT IN PHASE, and therefore, suggests strongly that electricity is NOT being CONVERTED into mechanical energy by the machine. There is a more complex relationship than simple, one-to-one conversion.

    It is this NON-LINEARITY between the electricity expended and the mechanical energy produced that we hope to exploit for our benefit.

    My goal is NOT to redevelop the Lockridge Device, although I am not against any of you trying. My goal is to learn exactly how to run ordinary motors in a torque enhanced condition at high speed to produce a GAIN in MECHANICAL POWER.

    In the coming days, I hope to lay out what I think is a reasonable pathway to discover how to run unmodified DC motors in this power enhanced condition.

    Peter
    Last edited by Peter Lindemann; 12-29-2010, 07:57 PM.

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  • dragon
    replied
    getting close...

    I expect I should be close enough to start running some tests with it this weekend.... I ran it up to 2000 rpm with the flywheel in place and it will drive a 60 watt bulb conventionally for a few minutes dissipating the energy from the flywheel.

    I have the final assembly and the commutator to design and build and it should be ready...
    ________
    Kid Nexium
    Last edited by dragon; 07-20-2011, 03:05 AM.

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  • dragon
    replied
    Originally posted by Armagdn03 View Post
    Thats half the fun!
    Probably a little more than half actually - but it's nice to see your work become a success instead of another project on the scrap pile waiting to salvage its parts for another project....
    ________
    SICK FROM ZOLOFT
    Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:10 AM.

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  • Mark
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Mark, and everyone else,

    My goal is to help everyone here, who wants to, learn how to build a self-running system. That said, I do not have time to get involved with "the build" as you put it, because I am too busy working for a living.

    What I would like to do is help you all understand what it will take to develop a working design. There are a lot of details that have not been worked out yet, and there is no reason to believe that "the group" here understands the science of what I presented in my lecture.

    So we can all get going on the SAME PAGE, I would like everyone who wants to participate in this thread to write down on a piece of paper what your understanding and definition of BACK EMF is.

    DO NOT POST YOUR ANSWER. Just write it down as best you can. I told the answer in the lecture, but I don't want early "posters" to influence others, for better or for worse. Then on Sunday night, everyone can post their answer without looking at anyone else's answer. That should give me a pretty clear idea of how people are thinking about this and what they have learned from my lecture so far.

    I will figure out how to proceed after this.

    Peter
    Peter,

    Have you figured out yet how to proceed. Your presence on this thread has been very minimal.

    Can you give some direction on how to best increase the efficiency of the starter motor. IMHO a start would be bearings on the front and back plates, minimal tension on the comutator brushes, more windings on the armature and some method to capture the colapsing magnetic field.

    Some questions I have are: will adding more windings of a smaller wire on the armature reduce the torque? What would the effect be of removing the amature winding cores?

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  • Armagdn03
    replied
    Originally posted by dragon View Post
    Peter, you stated in an earlier post...

    " There are a lot of details that have not been worked out yet, and there is no reason to believe that "the group" here understands the science of what I presented in my lecture "

    What are we missing? I hate to go through an entire build only to find out I missed something along the way then have to re-build it because of some small details I overlooked...
    Thats half the fun!

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  • dragon
    replied
    Peter, you stated in an earlier post...

    " There are a lot of details that have not been worked out yet, and there is no reason to believe that "the group" here understands the science of what I presented in my lecture "

    What are we missing? I hate to go through an entire build only to find out I missed something along the way then have to re-build it because of some small details I overlooked...
    ________
    Mexicocity Hotel
    Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:10 AM.

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  • Mark
    replied
    Emfimp

    I'm pretty sure that the field winding and the amature windings are already in series.

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  • emfimp
    replied
    I just reviewed the DVD a couple nights ago, and noticed that Peter said that we may have to rewind the field winding with more turns of smaller gauge wire, or put a resistor in series with the field winding. (I believe the motor to be a shunt wound w/ heavy gauge wiring, but mine is at a machinist's currently so I cannot verify. I bought the suggested starter motor from the DVD)

    I presume this mod is to minimize field current, so the majority of the current passes through the armature, producing more torque & useable power.

    Just wondering if it may be a beneficial option to simply put the field in series with the armature, as an alternative to the above two. This would accomplish (I believe) the intent of the other two options, while not requiring a lot of effort & possibly gaining a lot of torque, as evidenced by the torque graphs in the DVD. (comparing shunt & series wound motors)

    Love to hear your opinion, Peter, & anyone else's thoughts on this too!

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  • cwaugs
    replied
    Dewey, Your question "Will your working model be at the next conference?" has been answered multiple times here

    "">>Originally Posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Mark, and everyone else, My goal is to help everyone here, who wants to, learn how to build a self-running system. That said, I do not have time to get involved with "the build" as you put it, because I am too busy working for a living.What I would like to do is help you all understand what it will take to develop a working design. There are a lot of details that have not been worked out yet, and there is no reason to believe that "the group" here understands the science of what I presented in my lecture.<<""

    As far as a good working contact arrangement I have used a commutator and an alternator slip ring setup which is bulletproof and already proven to last. just mount them both on a shaft and jumper as many comm segments together as needed then connect the slip ring terminal to the comm. I'll try to take some descriptive pics tonight to make my ramblings clearer. Wayne
    Attached Files

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  • dewey
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Mark, and everyone else,

    My goal is to help everyone here, who wants to, learn how to build a self-running system. That said, I do not have time to get involved with "the build" as you put it, because I am too busy working for a living.

    What I would like to do is help you all understand what it will take to develop a working design. There are a lot of details that have not been worked out yet, and there is no reason to believe that "the group" here understands the science of what I presented in my lecture.

    So we can all get going on the SAME PAGE, I would like everyone who wants to participate in this thread to write down on a piece of paper what your understanding and definition of BACK EMF is.

    DO NOT POST YOUR ANSWER. Just write it down as best you can. I told the answer in the lecture, but I don't want early "posters" to influence others, for better or for worse. Then on Sunday night, everyone can post their answer without looking at anyone else's answer. That should give me a pretty clear idea of how people are thinking about this and what they have learned from my lecture so far.

    I will figure out how to proceed after this.

    Peter
    Peter,

    Since I was unable to attend the 2010 conference, I followed your line of thinking from the DVDs, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I completely agree with your theories presented.

    Will your working model be at the next conference?

    Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
    I'll get your autogragh in July!

    Dewey.

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  • dragon
    replied
    Your absolutely right phil.g ! I simply assumed a 300 watt arrangement without thinking it through while my mind was working on other problems. In reality the resistance only determines the current flow to the caps. Something in the range of 196 ohms would deliver 1.2 amps to the cap. Going a little deeper, we need to charge the cap in .02 seconds which would require a little more current. Getting the resistance correct may take a bit of experimenting - possibly a single 100 watt bulb of 144 ohms would do it. I was assuming the resistance of hot bulbs.
    ________
    Pov sex
    Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:09 AM.

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  • phil.g
    replied
    Assumptions, assumptions

    I bought the DVD, watched it straight through a couple of times, and have been bouncing around in it to review details.

    As I've been reading the posts here, I'm struck by how many assumptions are flying around. An example from Dragon:

    > If you use 3 100 watt bulbs in parallel you have a resistance of 48 ohms ...

    I have been assuming the load/ballast would be in series. I think it would be a good idea for us to surface and make explicit the assumptions we have; likely, many of them are wrong...

    (P.S. I'm not sure how Dragon arrived at 48 ohms -- I assume Dragon measured one and did some math. But the resistance of tungsten filaments is highly temperature-dependent, so the resistance of a hot bulb is very different from a cold one.)

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  • goreggie
    replied
    Commutator

    Hi I got this from Ted in SF Bay, 2" pvc coupler coat with vasaline, 2" copper coupler cut the way you want it, use body filler bondo, slip copper into pvc fill wait 1 hour sand your done Mark R

    Last edited by goreggie; 04-03-2011, 11:07 AM.

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  • emfimp
    replied
    Wow! Thanks Michael & Bill! These look like great replacements, & cheap too! Definitely going to be first on my list, to look these up...

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